The First Six: Bikepacking

Welcome to Aotearoa, The Land of the Long White Cloud. After a whopping 50km day trip to test out my set up, I set out on a two year bikepacking journey around NZ. Here’s the first 3000km in six months! Read more

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Trip start
September 7, 2022
The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Taking the Leap
September 7, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
After quitting my job, selling all my belongings (okay, most—how could I part with my books!?), and kissing my loved ones goodbye, I hopped on a 14hr direct flight from Vancouver, Canada to Auckland, NZ. The parting felt more bitter than sweet, how could I tear myself away from all that held me like home to ride into the unknown?

As I sat in that rigid airport chair, shameless tears drenching the mask I’d be wearing for the better part of the day, a kind Kiwi came to sit next to me. He chatted about mundane things—work, his family—and asked me questions about my journey in a thinly veiled attempt to distract me from my sobbing. Full of helpful suggestions for my journey with tons or route recommendations, this interaction would be the first of many such acts of generosity. The flight itself was your typical time-becomes-meaningless limbo phase of back-to-back movies and failed attempts at reading, before a jittery touch down in the place I’d been dreaming about for years. That same kiwi treated me to a much appreciated coffee before I tucked myself (and my hefty bike box) into an airport shuttle.

The radio was full of starkly monarchist mourning for the Queen’s death, setting an odd tone to my arrival. I lugged my bike box a couple of blocks and staggered, sweaty and scattered with many an atom still up there in the skies, to my Airbnb. My host John was a writer and actor, as well as an interesting conversationalist. He took me out to meet his artsy friends at a funky local bar and I had my first taste of kiwi beer—not bad!

I cruised around bustling Auckland and sorted out the boring logistics—opening a bank account, getting an IRD number, et cetera. During that two weeks I stayed with a handful of fabulous folks from Warmshowers who showed me the best of the city and gave me a lot of encouragement for my upcoming journey. I also explored Rangitoto Island with a new friend.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Cold Ride, Hot Springs
September 22, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 14 °C
Parting from a gorgeous waterfront home in Half Moon Bay, I gathered up my courage and got on my bike. Inspired by the Spring weather (read: cold, rainy, and windy), I opted on a one week journey to The Coromandel where I would WWOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms) at a meditation centre for a month. I liked the idea of waiting out warmer weather nestled up in the woods with ample time to ground into this new place. Day 1 was an 85km ride to Miranda Springs, a holiday park with some much appreciated hot pools. Especially considering that the latter half of the ride was torrential rain, the kind that prompts you to pour puddles of water from your shoes, I couldn’t have planned a better route. It was surreal and terrifying and exciting and so so satisfying to finally be setting out on my journey.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Flat Farmland
September 23, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 10 °C
A cruisy, flat ride skirting the Firth of Thames along the Hauraki Rail Trail to Te Puru. Beautiful bird watching opportunities and a swift introduction to New Zealand’s vast farmland. Cycling past countless pastures full of dewy-eyed calves pulled at my heart strings and sparked that ever-present eco-anxiety. I thought about the yearning between mother and baby as I listened to their keening. Such suffering and grief all for a splash of milk in someone’s coffee. I listened to their cries and noticed the absence of bird call. Where do the birds roost and find plant debris for their nests? The staggering loss of biodiversity and decline in native plant species an accepted cost in the dominant world of animal agriculture. Countless opportunities for life-giving abundance are lost when we prioritize consumption of animal products and bodies at the expense of the land and it's beings.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Coromandel Town: AKA Pottery Heaven
September 24, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Leaving behind the flats of yesterday, I journeyed 60km up and over two hills to Coromandel Town. The route was stunning with expansive ocean views and lots of lush ponga trees dotting the narrow, winding road. An absolute highlight was making it to one of the crests and hearing church bells ring through the mountains as I soaked in the view. I arrived in Coromandel with enough time to grab lunch at a local cafe. The vegan option was absolutely nothing to write home about but I did end up scratching down numbers & addresses of kind folks offering me a place to stay. There was a big group of riders who’d journeyed over the 309 road for a day excursion. Impressed by their Lycra, attitude, and age, we all quickly got to chatting. I’d come to stay with a few of them (Shazzy and Chrissy later in my journey).

Finished off the day with a visit at the Barry Brickell Railway where back in the 60’s a dedicated potter built the Driving Creek Railway to harvest clay from the mountainside. I finished off the night with a swim and a Backcountry Meal at the most serene campsite, Tuck’s Bay. This spot was a little hike-a-bike in from the main Long Bay Campsite but well worth it to avoid the camper vans and kiddos!Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Follow the Grey Gravel Road
September 25, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Up and over the 309 road to Whitianga—my first taste of Aotearoa gravel. I was mesmerized by the cacophony of bird calls resounding through the thick bush. I stopped near to the top to visit massive Kauri trees, the blessed few left untouched by colonial logging and, now, Kauri dieback disease. I arrived at Shazzy’s house (a cyclist I met the day before) exhausted by exhilarated, declaring that I’d fallen in love with gravel. The next night, I hopped 6km down the road to stay with Chrissy during which time we went on a nice walk and enjoyed some stargazing from her hot tub.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Coming Home to Te Moata
September 27, 2022 in New Zealand
17km down the road and a short gravel climb up into the mountains brought me to Te Moata: my home for the next month. Here I was on land that had been restored from brush and farmland to an oasis of native plant and tree species including Kauri, Kawakawa, Ponga, Kahikatea, Rimu, Totara, and so much more. Walking through the forest and braving myself for an icy dip in the crystal clear river was such a grounding experience for me. In that funny hodgepodge Wwoofers hut with Maaike, Lieke, Vanessa, and Bridget, I started to feel like Aotearoa could be home. Annalena and Paul, the hosts, alongside the marvellous longterm volunteer Kate, were incredible guardians of the land and the meditation centre. Together we harvested fresh food from the garden, kept the place clean, cooked beautiful meals, and ensured that the guests had a marvellous time. I was able to participate in a silent meditation retreat led by a powerful nun and witness the incredible connection between youth and their counsellor’s in the Kindness Institute Group.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
On the Road Again!
October 26, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
From Te Moata to Shazzy’s on the 25th (22km) and then back over the 309 road on the 26th (68km). Beautiful visit with the Kauri trees again with stellar ocean views. Happy for some sunshine to greet me as I get back on the road.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Hello Hills
October 27, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Said goodbye to Colville, the last spot for food, gas, and the comforts of civilization, and dove into the Coromandel’s classic winding, undulating, gravel roads. Today’s ride may only have been 26km but the hills made it feel like twice that. Lucky for me, each climb was rewarded with a jaw dropping seaside view. Found home for the night at Sandy Bay DOC Campsite.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Mudslides & a Hard Hike-A-Bike
October 28, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Somehow I decided it would be a good idea to turn the hiking track at the northern tip of the Coromandel (The Coastal Walkway) into a biking route. Needless to say, there was much more bike pushing than riding. Some of the descents/ascents were so steep, rutted, & rooted that I had to bring my gear up in phases. First, taking the bags up then hiking back down for the bike. An especially fun part was running into a mudslide that required me to lift everything over my head, tiptoe across fallen trees, then precariously lower everything back down on the other side. Today pushed me to my limits, an experience as exhilarating as it was exhausting. I was welcomed home to the most breathtaking campsite at Fletcher Bay where I collapsed into a puddle of goo, soaking in the waves.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Stunning Ride & a Perfect Hitch
October 29, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Woke up to a beautiful sunrise at Fletcher Bay and hopped back on the bike for a 37km ride back to Colville for a coffee. This may have been my most stunning day up here. Every corner brought new waves and perfectly gnarled pōhutukawa trees reaching to drink in the surf and sunshine. A funny mountain goat gave me a good startle by jumping out in front of my bike. Saw a total of about 5 cars so a very quiet, remote feeling day. Had a cheeky little fall when my tire snagged a particularly juicy gravel section. Rolled into Colville for a much appreciated cafe and ended up chatting with a kiwi couple at the tail end of a vacation. I gratefully took up their offer for a ride, meaning I wouldn’t have to do a repeat ride down to Coromandel Town. Woo!Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Kind Strangers Saving the Rainy Day
October 29, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Woke up to TORRENTIAL rain = flooding roads absolutely not suitable for riding. Lucky me, I was able to catch a ride with my Warmshowers Host from the night before. We drove down to Thames with the windshield wipers on max and still could barely see the road. A friend of a friend came to the rescue and offered me a warm, dry place to stay. Despite being in Auckland for the night, they gave me instructions for where to find their spare key and invited me to make myself at home. I revelled in the luxury of a bath, stove cooked meal, Netflix movie night, and a glorious bed to sleep in. Thank you sweet strangers!Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Hauraki Rail Trail and Waihi Gorge
October 31, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
75km day with most of it on the designated cycle path of the Hauraki Rail Trail—what a luxury. Much farmland to start the day followed by a fun old railway tunnel in the Waihi Gorge. Campground for the night was stunning. Met a local visiting the river with her kids who recommended a night walk to see some glow worms. Also went for a nice wander through a long cave to some stunning waterfalls in the morning.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
A Soon to be Mum in Matamata
November 1, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Another day on the Hauraki Rail Trail, bustling with other cyclists, especially retirees. Back tracking out of the gorge was beautiful with more time spent checking out the waterfalls and other sites of interest. Most of the day was in farm country and I got an especially up close view at my Warmshowers stay for the night. Simone, my cool host, was temporarily living on her mother in law’s dairy farm as she waited out her pregnancy. Simone and Louie had been cycle touring the world when they found out hey were pregnant and decided to come back to Louie’s home, New Zealand. Simone and I went for a sunset walk through the pastures, dodging fresh and brick patties along the way. I was really inspired by their journey and excited to follow along on Instagram at this new phases as parents.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Don’t Worry, Darling
November 2, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
76kms of highway riding through flat flat farmland. Typical lunch break on the side of the road, leaning up against an electric/barbed wire fence, trying to avoid sitting in cow shit. It’s heartbreaking to see the land divvied up into private property parcels with not a slice of public land for kilometres. Even when you come across a lone tree to provide some much needed shelter from the sun, it’s usually behind a barbed wire fence. Arrived in Hamilton a bit early to check in with my Warmshowers family so I decided to go see Olivia Wilde’s new film, Don’t Worry, Darling. Dark, twisted sci-fi about a highly patriarchal dystopic world where women are held hostage in virtual realities to fulfill male dreams of the lost “golden age” of the 1950’s. Caught in a society of servitude and perfection, the women attempt to rage their way out. I remember coming out of the theatre feeling like the world had spun on its axis, all the white picket fences had a more ominous feel. My Warmshowers family was lovely, a couple with their young daughter. The guy had recently opened his own bike delivery company and was bopping busy. I got the chance to ride an E-cargo bike for the first time when I picked it up from the shop for them. A fun two night stay!Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Buddy Riding
November 6, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
After a couple of days in Hamilton, I linked up with my friend Tim to continue on the road. We cycled over to Wangariro Hotsprings, passing through the quaint town of Ngāruawāhia. Almost everything was closed but we managed to find a classic Kiwi bakery for some chips and coffee. Our home for the night was a quirky campground/motel that had obviously been a popular family spot back in the 80s. While slightly dilapidated, it still held some charm (made a little horror movie-esque by the rust and decay). All in all, a good 33km day. Sadly, the only photo that I have from the day is of a dead cockroach at the campsite 😅Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Surf Central: Raglan
November 7, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Nice mixture of gravel and paved riding with only a little bit of a hwy grind entering the seaside surf town of Raglan. Cruisy 35km with a nice coffee to end the ride at Raglan Roast. Our camping spot for the night was close to the water and only a short ride into town. I enjoyed cruising through the little shops and especially enjoyed my chat with the bookshop owner.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Kaniwhaniwha
November 9, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
40km ride to DOC campsite Kaniwhaniwha. Sweet trail riding leading into the campsite with gorgeous mountain views and sweet sheep around. We beelined it to the river for an icy “shower” and enjoyed two nights here. Our rest day turned into a 10 hour hike through Pirongia Forest Park, passing by Pahautea Hut. We met a nice German tourist hiking the TA who was coincidentally also named Keirra. The hike was stunning with expansive 360° views once we gained all our attitude. Unfortunately that also meant that we found the cloud and thus the moisture and thus the mud. I had a glorious dunk up to my knee and got to rock a caked mud boot for the rest of the walk out. All in all, exhausting but good fun.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Off to the Glow Worms
November 11, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
75km to Waitomo Caves. Nice stay at the YHA with cute little piglets running around. I went on a boat tour through the caves and got to see the stunning constellation of glow worms.
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Ngaherenga Campsite
November 13, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
80km ride to the start of the Timber Trail. Absolutely gorgeous entry into the Pureora Forest Park with gorse-lined gravel roads glowing with the warm light of the sun. Lots of Kaka flitting between the trees at camp, their dinosauresque calls echoing through the air.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Timber Trail
November 14, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Two days of absolutely stunning riding on the Timber Trail. Lush forest, icy rivers, and wild views from wobbly suspension bridges. Really fun terrain with a mix of rooted trails and natural gravel. Day 1: 40km ride to the DOC campsite at the halfway point. Day 2: 45km out plus 30km to Taumaranui Holiday Park.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Stormy entry to Tongariro National Park
November 17, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
59km to Mangahuia Campsite at the entrance to the Tongariro National Park. A beautiful day of riding with some rather moody weather. The last 10km or so was torrential rain. An exhilarating dip in a raging, icy river with the rain pummeling down.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Hunkering Down
November 18, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
That weather from yesterday wasn’t going anywhere anytime soon: time to find somewhere to stay warm and dry. Ended up riding 59km to Ohakune where we stayed at a friend’s Bach for a couple of nights. Did a day ride on the cobbled Old Coach Road—cool!Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
A Very Wet Ride
November 24, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 13 °C
Well, after a couple of days hiding from the weather, we decided the rain couldn’t stop us. 63km to Taihape on a mix of gravel and sealed roads. Really beautiful despite (because of?) the whipping winds, sheets of rain, and booming thunder.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
The Not-So Gentle Annie
November 26, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
79km along the Gentle Annie ride to Kuripapango (Ox Bow) Campsite. A breath taking ride with three juicy hill climbs, the lady of which I gave in and pushed my bike up. Really fun descents with endless mountain views. Potentially one of the most beautiful road rides thus far. Enjoyed a “rest” day here and did a summit hike to catch a view of the winding river.Read more
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The First Six: Bikepacking Traveler
Back to the Coast
November 28, 2022 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Finished up the last 72km of Gentle Annie into Napier. A nice sunny day of riding that ended at a lovely Warmshowers Host, Jenny. Continued 17km down to Haumoana for another Warmshowers stay.
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