• Travel with the Wicks
Okt – Nov 2019

India, Nepal & Bhutan

After 10 years we return to India to explore Rajasthan and cruise the Ganges. We then fly to Nepal for a new adventure; a place Tom has dreamed of travelling to. Finally we will complete this trip with
Bhutan -the happiest place on earth!
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  • Permulaan perjalanan
    22 Oktober 2019

    INDIA OR BUST!

    22 Oktober 2019, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Unbelievable, we are on sched ( well Dianne’s sched) we made it to Calgary airport almost intact (May have forgotten a couple of things)
    We have checked in, easy peasy, and are now relaxing having a bite to eat.
    Our adventure really started last night. I had just opened the shoe polish as Dianne insisted on having nice shoes, when the phone rang. It was Liz, part of the Liz and Alan who make up our travel partners. They are leaving a day before us, and we plan to meet in Jaipur in about a week. Liz asked to speak to Dianne, and I was sure I heard stress in her voice. She asked if we had our Indian e-visa with our picture on it. We did not. It was posing a problem for them at the BA check in as it was essential for travel. We started to bum out immediately as we were not sure where to get that particular paper. We had documents that clearly stated our e-visa was granted with reference numbers and all, but nothing with a picture.

    When I answered the phone, I left the shoe polish on top of the washing machine. It was now in the floor pounding spin cycle and the shoe polish is on the floor. I feel like my hair is on fire with everything that’s gong on, and I can only imagine how Liz and Alan feel with the flight departure deadline. Dianne is now logged on with the Indian Consulate and is slowly making some headway. I’m supervising by this time which isn’t helping much but it does add some urgency to Dianne. After about 40 minutes we have two e-visas complete with pictures of ourselves. Dianne tries to send the step by step of how to do it to Liz.

    I clean up the shoe polish and around 9:30 pm Dianne gets another call from Liz. They have jumped through hoops of fire, but they have e-visas with pictures as well. The are on their way. I wonder why Liz didn’t want to talk to me.

    Anyway, we show up today well prepared with our pictured visas and they don’t even ask for them. I ask if she needs to see it and our check in girl says it is all on the information she gets from our passport....
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  • We walked for miles and miles...

    23 Oktober 2019, England ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After a nice flight, couple movies, couple naps we arrived at Heathrow early! Good thing too! We cruised security and border formalities smoothly and were give detailed directions to gate B. Dianne couldn’t pass up an opportunity to shop (Terminal 2 has some nice shops) we continued our trek to the gate. The gate for Air India is across the hall from our arrival gate, but you have to walk about two kilometres and go up and down escalators, elbow your way past slow moving folks to end up at the shops they want you to buy things in. That’s where the slow moving folks catch up to you again and give you the evil eye for being so much in a hurry to go nowhere.

    We are back where we started, drinking a cappuccino and waiting for the departure of our delayed flight. Seems like another day at work.
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  • Waiting in Mumbai

    24 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Our flight on Air India went very well. They gave us pyjamas to wear and the food was tasty and ample.
    Now getting through customs took a little longer. Apparently Dianne struggled with her biometrics. Her fingers were so dry that the machine could not read her fingerprints. She was instructed to huff and puff on her fingers before laying them on the machine. This took several attempts. With passports stamped and visa’s accepted we went on our merry way!

    When taking our luggage (yes both pieces made it to Mumbai) to the transfer location, we are informed that our flight to Udaipur is delayed until 1600. That is about 12 hours from now if all goes well. We are both optimistic that we can spend some time in the airport lounge, so we go through security to domestic departures. We arrive at the lounge and are courteously informed that our access is restricted to a maximum of 4 hours before departure. Disappointing!

    We are in no mans land and we have hit a wall. We both are so tired. There are no ATM’s in this area; to leave this area is almost impossible. Once you have gone through security’ you are hooped! So here we are people watching, writing the blog and watching the clock-tick, tock, tick, tock.

    While we are waiting, (Dianne is sleeping) I am approached by a local family. It is a Dad and Mom with their two grown children. The son speaks very good English and he says where they are from and where they are going and begins asking questions about our life. He translates some details to his father, who is not quite as fluent in English. We learn a lot about each other. Their daughter is doing post graduate studies in Chemistry, the old man is a real estate broker. We discuss the price of real estate here and in Canada, They are amazed that Canada is so small, with only 37 million people. I point out it is big, but sparsely populated. Their flight is boarding now, so we get pictures and say a warm farewell.

    As we head over to lounge to get a bite to eat we marvel at the amazing artwork that is displayed in Mumbai airport. Both the domestic and international terminals are quite striking and beautiful.

    Tom ordered me an egg, fried hard over. The picture is what arrived. We need to work on his communication skills!
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  • Udaipur Welcome

    24 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    What an odyssey. We left Mumbai 5 hours late and arrived in Udaipur at 815pm. Our hearts were pounding as one of our pieces of luggage was 3 rd last to appear on the carousel. Whew we got everything and were met by smiling person named Jai! He came bearing welcome gifts. A nice hat for me and a pashmina for DIanne.
    It is India as we remember it, cows in the street, narrow roads, horns honking friendly folks. Out hotel is inside the walled part of the city overlooking Lake Pichhola. To get to it we transfer from our car to a golf cart type vehicle that can navigate the very narrow streets.
    Arriving at the hotel we were greeted by hotel staff with a welcome drink and a marigold garland, Perfect Travels representatives also bearing gifts.
    Our room overlooks the lake and the view is stunning.
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  • Call to prayer

    25 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This morning we were woken by the call to prayer over the loudspeaker followed by drumming and singing. Really quite beautiful and brought memories alive of our previous visit says Dianne. I am not as charitable with my words. The drumming was some guy wailing on a drum at 5:15 am. I used my binoculars to try and see if I could later identify him when I was out and about. Maybe tune him up a bit about my version of morning serenity.
    Breakfast was good and we left our nice hotel room behind, checking out. We will be on our way to Jodpur after touring Udaipur for a while.
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  • Our senses are awakened!

    25 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It has been while since either Dianne or I have been to an Indian Market, but the Bada market in Udaipur immediately brought back all the memories of ones visited in the past. The sounds, the colours, the smells, the confusion! All are present here. It is crowded and thankfully not too hot as it is still morning. We both like the market because we are walking and it consists mostly of vegetables and flowers. We ended up with a spice merchant, paying as I always do in these situations, too much for spices. Oh well.Baca lagi

  • City palace, Maiden Garden

    25 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Included in our itinerary is the palace and palace museum. Our guide Abhi is knowledgeable and informative. The palace constructed started in 1644 and all the Maharani have contributed to it over the years. At the end of the tour there is an opportunity to buy all sorts of things like carpets and clothes. Carpet salesmen are very skilled at getting my internal dialogue into an internal ferocious argument. We have no intentions of buying a carpet, and as he rolls out more and bigger carpets, each more laboriously constructed than the last, I wrestle with being rude and walking out, or continuing my feigned interest in his wares. The longer it goes on the louder my inside voice becomes. I’m finally screaming at myself, get out! Get out! Together we say thanks but no thanks and edge our way around the carpets which are an investment in our future that come with free delivery. We are out the door.

    Before leaving Udaipur, we stop at the Maiden garden. It’s nice. It was designed by the king for the queen, princesses and their ladies in waiting. There are fountains, swimming pool snd grassy areas to play.

    We part from our guide Abhi, and are left in the care of our seasoned and skilled driver Hari Singh.
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  • Jain Temple, Ranakpur

    25 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We drive from Udaipur to a Jain temple in Ranakpur. It takes about 2 hours and the drive is through some rugged mountainous country. We see monkeys, wild pigs, a horse, a camel and cows. Lots of cows. Not cows in a field as that is a rarity. Cows are usually in the middle of the road.
    By the time we get to Ranakpur we need to use the washroom. Hari puts us in the right direction to the loo, but as we approach, the toilet paper salesman intervenes. The cost is 20 rupees for paper but the smallest I have is a 200 rupee bill. He manages to scrounge up 100 in change. I think we got 4 squares each. He was nowhere to be seen when I exited the washroom. He probably retired.

    The Jain temple was impressive in that it is carved from marble. There are 1444 individual columns intricately decorated by hand carving each.

    The rest of the journey to Jodpur was relatively slow due to traffic. The afternoon evening traffic was lots of goats being herded down the road. Everyone who had goats was moving them today.
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  • Awaking in our palace!

    26 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Arriving after dark at our heritage hotel Ranbanka Palace, we met our guide for tomorrow in the reception area. He is Ravinder or Ravi for short. We are pretty hungry and tired. First we have to stow our luggage in our room which is on the third floor. Being a palace from yesteryear it has no elevator, and we are on the third floor for the best view. This is no problem for the hotel’s ample staff. They schlep our bags upstairs without complaining and even smiling. Nice for Dianne. We go for something to eat and are entertained by a quartet of Indian musicians. One fella can busta move as a dancer too. We’re bagged so it’s off to bed.

    It’s a new day and we wake up in our palace bedroom.
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  • Royal Cenotaphs

    26 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We meet our local guide Ravi again this morning in the reception of the hotel. We are going to the Royal Cenotaphs and Mehrangarh Fortress. The Royal Cenotaphs are constructed of white marble ; the same as the Taj Mahal. They are great, with nice views of the Blue city. Ravi talks at length about both, if I’m honest, it is sounding to me like the last great palace fortress.

    Next we plan to go to the old part of Jodpur by the clock tower to see a Krishna Temple and the local market. It is a holiday and part of the festival of Diwali. Traffic is intense. We can only take the car so far until we switch to a Tuk Tuk. Ravi negotiates the price and on we go through the narrow ancient streets. As we are bumping along my cellphone falls out of my pocket and hits those same narrow and ancient streets. It made some noise when it bounced off the floor of the Tuk Tuk and so did I. We stop and retrieve it without further drama.
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  • Surprise Lunch

    26 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Our Tuk Tuk is stopped short of our destinations by a roadblock. We must proceed on foot. No discount for the shorter ride. Once out on the street Ravi mentions that he lives nearby and asks if we would like to go to his house for some Masala tea. He doesn’t have to ask twice as a rest from all the action here sounds attractive to Dianne and I. We walk about 200 meters from our location, and as we do we see that Ravi is obviously well known here. He nods to all the shop keepers, vendors and craftsmen who in turn wave to us as well. Arriving at his home, we climb some narrow steep stairs to the third floor where there is a terrace adjoining a sitting area and a small kitchen. Ravi introduces us to his parents, his wife and his son. His son is 5 years old. Ravi explains that his parents live on the second floor and he, his wife and son live on the third. The house is about 350 years old. His family has lived here at this location for 7 generations. His neighbours have been his neighbours for 200 years. We are in awe of this.

    Tea is served and Ravi’s mom asks through Ravi if we would like to eat some food. Again we don’t say no and soon we are served some spicy cauliflower in broth with naan bread. Ravi’s son is bouncing off the floor from excitement. Grandma reprimands him gently. In the meanwhile Dianne and I are trying to recall our Indian manners eating with our right hand and me really try not to make a mess. The house has been upgraded throughout its 350 years with new tiles, electricity, running water, kitchen appliances and such. Everyone is welcoming and conversational flows easily. Grandma and Grandpa don’t speak much English but Ravi’s wife is fluent. We spent about an hour talking about family and sharing pictures with each other.
    Before we leave, we are invited to see the temple in the kitchen, and we also partake of the view from the kitchen window. It is the same view we saw from the Mehrengarh Fortress, only in reverse. We part from the company of Ravi’s family with warm goodbyes and immense gratitude for the experience.
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  • Krishna Temple and Market

    26 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    It is surprising how quiet Ravi’s house is compared to the cacophony of the streets below. We proceed to the Krishna temple on foot dodging motorbikes and tuk tuks. While we tour the temple, Ravi guards our shoes. The Clock Tower and Sadar Market is in the old city and is similar to the others we have seen, but being a holiday, people are dressed up. Dianne and I are mesmerized by all the colours of saris and the intricate jewellery on display. Tuk tuking back to our hotel is the most convenient mode of transport and we rendezvous with Hari our driver to set the time of departure for tomorrow. We say a final goodbye to Ravi, who has plans for a family gathering this evening at his home.Baca lagi

  • Mehrangarh Fortress

    26 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This fortress stands 410 feet above the skyline of Jodpur.; built in the 15th century.

    Jodpur; the Blue City. Ravi explains that city was named in 1459 for its founder Rajput chief named Rao Jodhpur. Jodhpur is the second-largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan. It was previously known as Marwar. Jodhpur is famous for its blue buildings, which were originally painted to signify that they were occupied by Brahmins, the highest caste in India.
    Ravi explained further that the blue colour has its advantages, it doesn’t absorb the heat as much and the mosquitoes apparently don’t like the colour neither!
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  • Happy Diwali - festival of lights

    27 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Diwali is Hindus largest and most important festival. Many preparations went into today and last nights celebration. Lights on many buildings and homes and other decorative garlands and flower petals sprinkled. Everyone was dressed in their best sari and jewelry. Delicious meals to share with friends and family were prepared.
    Decorations of painted feet at the doorway, wealth and prosperity was on its way in, Lakshmi; the Hindu goddess of Wealth and well being.
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  • Pushkar

    27 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Where to begin. Initially Pushkar was described in the brochure as a place where DIanne could get a camel ride. She has wanted to do that ever since I talked about my camel ride experience while on a layover in Dubai. My opinion of camels has been on the low side of the scale since that time.

    The Pushkar camel fair is an annual event like the Calgary Stampede. It is going to happen right after the festival of Diwali and preparations are well underway. Tents have been set up and grandstands ready to be erected. Combined with the lights and colours surrounding Diwali, this a happening place. It is also according to our local guide, the holiest site for Hindus.

    The Brahma Temple is here and Pushkar lake is a holy place to spread your ashes after you’ve passed. Our guide brings us through the temple and down to the lake. His dissertation as we go along is about all the good work that the Foundation is doing here. We are blessed by the lake in a small ceremony with ribbons around our wrists and red dots placed on our foreheads. I am given a small coconut to offer to Brahma. We say a prayer led by our guide. I can see this is all designed to get me in the spirit of giving. The suggested donation is 100 dollars, or if you really want to help, 300. In spite of all the prayers and mantras, ceremonies and blessings, I am feeling less generous. I don’t know what is wrong with me, but that is how it is. I have to be honest with myself. Dianne waits by the lake as I am told to take my coconut to the office and give it to the officer of gift management. Give the coconut, along with whatever my good karma will allow. Dianne is enjoying this small drama as it unfolds. She knows there is no danger of me feeling too generous and giving too much, and she is eager to find out how I am going to manage their expectations. I give my coconut to officer of gift managing, he looks at me expecting more. I open my man purse and produce a twenty. He responds. More. I respond. It’s all I’m willing to give. I turn and walk away. Dianne now wants a selfie by the lake. She gives me heck when I’m not generous with my smiles. I’m all smiled out just now.
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  • We meet Sultan!

    27 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Sultan our camel shows up with his handler, Emil. Sultan is harnessed to a two wheeled cart with fat tires. We elected this mode of travel after hearing the ride is about an hour long, and also confirmed that Dianne could ride atop of Sultan somewhere along the journey. We had been in the auto this morning for about 4 hours, and there is nothing that will convince you more that you had it easy than a ride in a camel cart.
    We are loaded in the back of the cart bumping along the road not more than 2 feet from Sultans tail. I remember Michelle describing a camel safari she took with Peter while on their honeymoon. The phrase she used was full flapper farts coming from this camel. Emil is holding Sultans tail close to where it joins his backside. That is how he steers him.

    After some time Emil suggests that I ride atop Sultan. I don’t really want to, and I suggest Dianne ride instead. Emil is insistent. I will ride. I hope that it is a language problem and still suggest Dianne ride. No! The thought of a woman riding atop while I, the male languished in the rear was too much for his delicate sensibilities. I rode Sultan. It was better than the last camel ride which ended with me being pitched over the front of the beast when it decided the ride was over and knelt down front first, like a camel does.
    We reach the halfway point and stop for a rest. Emil suggests now that we take a picture of Dianne sitting on Sultan while we are stopped. Dianne seems happy with this arrangement.

    On the way back Emil talks about Sultan and also about himself. We are interested in hearing about Emil’s life, but something that he says about Sultan really gets me thinking. He says Sultan will never take a wife. He says it’s because Sultan likes Baba. I’m smiling now thinking about Sultan and Baba, whoever or whatever Baba is.
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  • Camel Fair pics

    27 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    As soon as Diwali celebrations are finished the Camel Fair gets underway. A few more camels from everywhere; 20,000 in number show up to this tiny town. Tents, bathrooms, grandstands are being constructed. There is excitement all around.Baca lagi

  • Elephant or jeeps?

    28 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our first night in Jaipur was noisy. We are in day 3 of Diwali and the festival is going strong. Now the streets and homes are decorated with lights the fireworks begin...about 8pm and last for about 3 or more hours. Our hotel invited everyone down for a celebration which was a firework display. You could see and hear fireworks all around the city; the noise sometimes deafening.

    In the morning we went to see Amber (pronounced Ambeer) Fortress. Another fort built high on the hill. Cars are only allowed so far then you must choose other transportation or walk( not many chose the latter). Elephant or jeep We chose the Jeep because we have already ridden an elephant. The fortress itself is magnificent . It is surrounded by 15km wall. It was built in the 16th century by a Rajput commander..
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  • City palace

    28 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    The city palace is now a museum. One part of the museum has a fabric display. Along with old carpet, old fabrics, old dresses are even some old shirts. A display of what appears to be laundry. I am having some trouble feigning interest in this as our Jaipur guide drones on about the age and craftsmanship, threads off gold and silver. I can’t wait to leave. I don’t want to talk to Dianne about it either. Maybe she likes it.Baca lagi

  • Jantar Mantar

    28 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The city palace is co-located with the observatory. Here you find Sundials, and other means of tracking the heavens used in astrology and other predictions. The largest sundial is 90 feet tall and is accurate to within 2 seconds. Impressive!

    The Jantar Mantar is a collection of nineteen architectural astronomical instruments built by the Kachwaha Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh II, the founder of Jaipur.
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  • Cruising the streets of Jaipur

    28 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Finally the City Palace is over and we are going on auto rickshaw. (Tuk Tuk). Our city guide is in some tough negotiations with the driver. It makes me happy to see someone else have to do the hard bargaining instead of me. We want to go to the spice market, but there are limited stores open today as it is a holiday. Diwali. A price is finally agreed upon and off we go again. There truly is a limited choice of spice merchants today. We found one. We are looking for potato spice, and of course this man has it. He assures us it is the real M’coy, or in Hindi, the real Lal Ghos.Baca lagi

  • Travel day - leaving Jaipur

    29 Oktober 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Four am and we got up minutes before the alarm. The fireworks didn’t seem to go on as long last night as we were asleep by 10.

    A travel day! We are busy packing and weighing our luggage and carry on. Weight limits of 15kg and 7kg. We are close but the cameras we carry are a cause for concern. Satisfied we locked everything up. Breakfast is brought to our room, down we go to meet our driver Hari.

    There is lots to see driving through the streets of Jaipur at 5 in the morning. There are many decorations and lights for the last day of Diwali. You can hear the call to prayer over the loudspeakers. Random fires burning in on he streets, street vendors getting theirs carts; a few walking with purpose, cows randomly walking down the streets as they do. There is a surprising amount of traffic but for all intents and purpose Jaipur is asleep.

    We arrive at the airport and say goodbye to our driver, Hari. He has taken good care of us and our stuff.
    In we go, flight info in hand, first check stop ok, now X-ray check luggage and were tagged, now for the check in. Our turn bags on conveyer, tagged, boarding passes in hand. We are done! All the weighing and repacking worked! Piece of cake..now through security; men to the left, women to the right.

    Waiting at the boarding gate in a corner now, we see our travel companions Liz and Alan arrive with their boxed breakfast in hand. It’s is good to see familiar faces, and we catch up on each other’s experiences.

    So far we have had an easy time of it. Perfect Travels has provided us with a most excellent driver in using Hari Singh. Our welcome in Udaipur even though we were 5 hours late was well planned. We have been happy with our accommodations and our only complaint is our time in Jaipur. There was nobody to meet us at the hotel, and the following day tour, not as seamless as our previous experience. That said we give them 4 out of 5 stars. Pretty good.
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