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India, Nepal & Bhutan
  • Travel with the Wicks
  • Travel with the Wicks

India, Nepal & Bhutan

After 10 years we return to India to explore Rajasthan and cruise the Ganges. We then fly to Nepal for a new adventure; a place Tom has dreamed of travelling to. Finally we will complete this trip with
Bhutan -the happiest place on earth! Les mer
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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Early Yoga

    3. november 2019, India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Yoga was offered as a morning activity on the boat. Dianne took part every day, I missed one day due to illness.

    It was different from our yoga practice at home in that the yoga teacher here was very regimented in her approach. It was to be done just as she instructed, or not at all. We appreciate a more flexible attitude. Once during what Dianne considered to be the final rest, Dianne fell asleep. Turns out there was more yoga to do so Champi woke up Dianne. I knew that was not a good idea, but didn’t intervene. Dianne’s opinion of the yoga program was changed to a negative one and we talked about it for quite a while. I knew you should not wake up Grumpy. Should have said so.Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Chhath Puja Festival

    3. november 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    As we left Guptipara, the beginnings of a festival were taking place. It is a festival that celebrates from sunset to sunrise. Our tour director Deep, mentioned that the festival would run all night; thousands of people would attend and there would be no sleeping tonight. Dianne and I both agreed we were glad to leave as it could be noisy.

    We arrived in Kolkata last night after motoring late into the night. We anchored in the middle of the middle of the river and thought we would all settle down to a good sleep. Another fate awaited us. Around 2:30 in the morning we were all awakened by music over loudspeakers, lots of fireworks and bangs as another festival took place. It was on the banks of the river but the noise was still loud and relentless.

    This celebration was held all along the River. There would have been no quiet spot to park. There were a lot of grumpy people at breakfast.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Mother Teresa

    3. november 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We took a bus through the streets of Kolkata to Mother Teresa’s house and where she tended to the sick and needy of Kolkata. Her tomb is here, and a museum. It was clean, tidy, austere in decorations, and very peaceful. Continuing onward down the street was the orphanage she founded. Again clean and tidy, not dismal and depressing. One of our guides, who is a local, says that by local standards Mother Teresa’s work is well funded. The Indian government does not have to contribute because of all the international donations.

    Motherhouse is the headquarters is the missionaries of charity and home of Mother Teresa and her Sisters since February 1953. This is where she lived, worked and prayed and finally laid to rest.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Flower Market

    3. november 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Next on the day’s agenda was the flower market. Smells not like Delhi.

    Marigolds are abundant and so are bees. No one seems concerned about the bees because as someone said, they are friendly. Marigolds are sold by the pound and are used in welcome garlands, decorations for temples, homes, toto’s, funerals and idols.

    The flower market was a wholesale market, so you couldn’t buy just one flower or even a small bouquet. It was a basket full or nothing.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Farewell dinner

    3. november 2019, India ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    India has changed some since we were here last. It has been 10 years and I would say there is less poverty than we witnessed before. I don’t think they have bought any new sewing machines or cement mixers or farm machinery since we were last here. So some things seem the same. We are 10 years older now, and don’t seem as physically able to handle the dirty air. I have a little cough that developed here. We also went to different sites than last time so it is not a perfect comparison. One thing that did seem the same was Indian hospitality. They are genuinely interested in knowing all about us, and telling about themselves. We really enjoyed that aspect of our travels.Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Off to Nepal

    4. november 2019, India ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Travel day, Calcutta Airport to Kathmandu Nepal. Air India flight 247 non stop direct. Some of our fellow travellers from the boat are on the same flight. It’s about an hour and and a half long and Air India served a hot meal.
    When we arrived in Nepal we arrived at the same time as some other international flights, and the customs area was crowded. Liz and Alan, Dianne and I all have e-visas that we got online. We need to pay the 30 USD each for our visas on arrival. There is a line up to pay, and a line up to validate your visa. There is another lineup for you if you don’t have a e-visa, which we thankfully avoid. Still it takes well over an hour to complete the process. After that’s all done, they scan you for metal before you pick up your luggage. I’m pretty stressed by the time we get our suitcases. A couple of times I thought I was going to have to tune some people up about manners and big crowd behaviour. It all worked out without the extra drama, and we were greeted by our guide Abit.
    It’s dark now as we exit the airport and ride to our hotel. Immediately it strikes us that Nepal is cleaner than the last place we were. The roads are rough, and the air is dusty, but it is cooler and our hotel is an oasis from that.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende
    HimalayansGauri-shankar (Holy Mountain)Everest from cockpitMelungtse - 23,560ftEverest - 29,028ftThe Holy Mountain - 23,405ft

    Flight to Mount Everest

    5. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Early get up for an early flight. Dianne and I are taking Buddha Air to Mountain. That is the stated destination. Alan and Liz are going by helicopter to Everest base camp. You’ll have to read their blog to find out about that.
    Kathmandu airport domestic departures is a zoo. Abit, our guide knows all the tricks though and gets us boarding passes, directs us through security and on to the boarding lounge. There are some delays as there are lots of flights to Mountain. We finally board the ATR 72 and take off. Everyone has a window seat on this flight, so it’s only half full. I look over at Dianne and see she is sleeping. For crying out loud. I know it is dangerous to wake up Grumpy, but what if she misses the the Himalayan mountains. That will be my fault too. I’m thinking I’m going to have to take off my shoe and throw it when she comes back around.

    Once we are above the low clouds, the view is spectacular. It keeps getting better as we climb up and close in on the high peaks. This is not disappointing, something I considered to be a possibility. As we approach Everest we are invited to visit the cockpit for a better view. I love visiting the cockpit! On the return to KTM there are more delays so we do a hold at about 20000 feet for 10 minutes. It is a very scenic hold. Maybe I can get a job here when I retire from AC.

    Back on the ground again and we are met by Abit. Nice way to spend the morning.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende
    Sweet girls from PokaharaPrayer wheels

    Swoyambhunath Stupe

    5. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Swayam in Sanskrit means self. Swoyambhunath means “Self-created One”. It was built over 2500 years ago and is also known as monkey temple. The temple is situated on a hilltop and true to its name has lots of monkeys. Along with monkeys are dogs, cows and pigeons. Any drama here at the temple seems to come from the animals. We see monkeys that don’t get along with each other, dogs that conflict with other dogs, but so far no inter species rivalry. I am sure it happens.

    Our guide Abit gives us a lengthy lesson in Buddhist mythology surrounding the area and temple. Some oft appears to be based on facts, like the bowl of Kathmandu being a lake at one time. The temple is decorated with prayer flags and prayer wheels. Families have come to pray for intercessions together. Lighting of lamps for your intention is common.

    As we descend the steps back to our ride, there is an opportunity to purchase souvenirs. Dianne and Liz are behind Alan, Abit and myself. Abit is concerned that the girls might not know that bartering is the rule here. Alan and I assure him that the art is not lost with Liz and Dianne.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende
    Some earthquake damage

    Katmandu Durbar Square Palace

    5. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Durbar in Nepalese means palace. So there is more than one Durbar Square. One of the things they have in common is that the buildings surrounding the squares were damaged in the 2015 earthquake. Countries from around the world have sponsored renovation projects as aid to Nepal. The buildings date back to the 16th century.Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Living goddess

    5. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    According to tradition, a female child is chosen to be the goddess. She is the Kumari and is chosen by how she represents 32 attributes. It is an extreme honour to have the Kumari chosen from your family. It also comes with some drawbacks. The child is chosen when she is about 3 1/2 years old. She will be the Kumari until she reaches puberty. She will not reside with the family, but will live in the Kumari Ghar with a priest and priestess who will be her guardians. She will only leave Kumari Ghar for formal functions or festivals, and will not walk on the ground but be conveyed in some manner. She is considered a Goddess, so gets her way when interacting with others. She is educated by the priest and priestess to represent divinity. When it’s all over, she goes back to her original family and assumes a normal life. A new goddess is chosen. It goes without saying that pictures of the goddess are strictly forbidden.
    That sounds like the perfect way to spoil a child, although I could be accused of treating my granddaughter that way. At least she gets some reality from her father when we take her home.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende
    Across rhe river, you may watchGet your fortune told

    Pashupatinah - Funeral for a Friend

    6. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This is the holiest Hindu pilgrimage in Nepal but also one of the holiest destinations in the world according to Abit, our guide. My feelings are that there is nothing but holy places, and this one qualifies too.
    What is happening here is funerals. Lots of funerals. Funerals in Hindu culture are very public events, with grief on display as a matter of life. In case there is any doubt you are in mourning, the eldest son will shave off all his hair and even shave his eyebrows for period of time after the death of his father. In the case of a mother’s funeral, it is the youngest son who performs the ritual. You remain this way for a minimum of two weeks. Some people will continue for up to a year like this.
    There is an aspect of precision to how it occurs with body preparation and ceremonial acts of rite at the beginning and moving towards the funeral pyre as things progress. There must be a dozen or so stone, alter like pyre platforms with various stages of cremation occurring. One was fully ablaze, another smouldering embers, still another steaming as it is washed and purified for another cremation. When the blaze is down to small embers, everything is swept into the river that runs beside the pyre platforms. Nothing remains of the deceased except memories.

    The family is not responsible for maintaining the fire as the cremation progresses. That is a kindness performed by the man dressed in white. At this time the family is just a witness to the proceedings. He stokes the fire, provides security from monkeys and dogs, sweeps the ashes and purifies the alter.

    Thinking of my fathers funeral, I am grateful he didn’t wish to be cremated in Nepal. The shaving of my head and eyebrows would be inconvenient to say the least. I would have been on board to have Mom’s funeral here though. A trip to India with my family culminating with the shaving of Allan’s head and eyebrows. That would have been entertaining. Dad might not have thought too much of it.

    You can spend some money here. Prayers can be expensive when prayed by the the Grand Poobah. It might be interesting to note that the cheapest cremation is the North American style, with a gas fired oven. That is for paupers. If you have the means, you go for the bonfire on the stone platform.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Bhaktapur - Nepal's Cultural Gem

    6. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Bhaktapur was once the capital. Because of this fact when you walk the streets you are treated to sights of temples and ancient streets. A traditional way of life exists here. The Nepal earthquake of 2015 has also taken a toll here. Most of the temples are still in the process of being restored, with some already finished. The work is still large scale, but I wouldn’t say that Bhaktapur has lost any of its charm. It is a pleasant walk through the streets.Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Travel day

    7. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Katmandu to Bharatpur, travelling on Buddha Air again. Delays at airport and a power failure add to the atmosphere. Nice thing about a power failure is that the public address system doesn’t work, so they call the flights the old fashion way, by shouting.
    It’s a short flight to Bharatpur, and we are met at the airport by our Naturalist Govinder. We all pile in to the Tata van and drive about an hour to Barahi Jungle Lodge. The neighbourhood we drive through appears to be a fairly affluent farming community, but the roads could use some smoothing out. There some rough stretches in the journey. The lodge is an eco-lodge situated across the river from Chitwan National Park. It should be a nice three days.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Chitwan - Elephant Safari

    7. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Another unique way to travel. Our mahout is gentle with our elephant as he guides him through the jungle. Even so, when Dumbo wants to stop and eat, it can take some encouragement to get him moving again. We see deer, a wild boar, and about 5 single horned rhinoceroses on this excursion. The rhinos are the biggest attraction. Photography is somewhat difficult because elephants don’t stay still too long.

    When an elephant blows his nose, it sounds like an air hose blowing off. Once Dumbo decided to get some leaves overhead. He grabbed the branch with his trunk and pulled down about a 6 foot section. I though he just wanted the leaves. Turns out he wanted the branch to pick his teeth as he walked along, then he ate the branch too.
    I would say elephants are friendlier than camels. That has been my experience. They also appear to smarter. We all were riding on three differently pachyderms, and when we got back to the elephant stairs, the elephants remembered the order in which we boarded. They let us get off in the same order, with no directions from the mahouts.    Les mer

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  • Travel with the WicksIndia, Nepal & BhutanReisende

    Jungle jeep safari

    8. november 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Up early for a Jeep safari. It is foggy and we cross the river by a pole and oar powered boat. On the other side we climb into a Tata jeep. We are six, like we were on the elephant safari, being joined by an Irish couple. It is eerie driving through the fog shrouded grass. The grass is 20 feet high here so you can’t see far anyway. We pass the grassland and find ourselves in the forest. It doesn’t take long before we spot some deer. What we want to see is a royal Bengal tiger. We have already seen some tiger footprints at the start of the ride, so we are hopeful.

    Through the course of the morning we see monkeys, some wild boar, rhinos and birds. The fog has lifted as the morning warms up which helps for game spotting. Dianne is better than I am at game spotting, seeing deer that no one else has noticed. We are treated to a bush breakfast around 9 am and eat it in the company of a feeding rhinoceros.    Les mer

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