1st stop TOKYO

September 2023 - May 2024
Jorma and I have begun our international nomadic travels in Tokyo! We had an awesome Business Class flight on Japan Airlines from Chicago. Read more
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  • Day 1–6

    Nakano

    September 28, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We made it by train to our apartment in Nakano. Jorma had set us up with eSims from Airalo before we left CA so we had cellular data when we hit the ground. We were able to navigate the train easily and got to our Air BnB. We had some hiccups getting into our apartment, the digital check in process wasn't working, we had to restart the tablet to complete. Also had an issue opening the door once we got our key out of the lock box. While we were in the exterior entry trying to get in we were extremely hot, there is no AC and the temperature was about 90 degrees with high humidity. But we persisted and finally made it into our space.
    Once in we unpacked into the clean and well appointed but very small space. We knew it was going to be an adjustment here with the small living spaces.

    We ventured out about 19:15 to find some food and stop into a Family Mart. We were both excited to try food from a convenience store but the downside to that was that we would have to bring the food back to the small accommodation to eat. We instead chose to try to find a small sushi restaurant. Walked around for about 20 minutes and ended up at Zamurai restaurant which was just across the street from our apartment. While we were doing fairly well with Google translate, this establishment offered us a handwritten menu on a white board. Lining up our choices with the handwritten sign became a challenge. I finally said 'Omokase'? A gentleman patron sitting close by spoke English and helped us negotiate chef's choice sushi for a set price. Of course it was an amazing experience and we got to try many wonderful things that we would not have otherwise known to try. I loved the gentleman behind the bar who carefully made us all the wonderful food. He had a serious but kind face. The small establishment was cozy and clean but unfortunately was quite smoky inside, it seemed there was no venting in the small kitchen. Jorma and I had watering eyes almost the whole time while eating our yummy sushi. It was a more expensive dinner that we were hoping for but the experience was unforgettable. It WAS our first night in Tokyo so I feel like we can justify it.
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  • Day 4

    Nakano Days 2 and 3

    October 1, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We spent the last two days exploring neighborhoods around Shinjuku and Shibuya. Lots of walking. It is mostly flat here. Day 2 the weather was a little cooler, in the mid seventies. Yesterday it heated back up again but was mostly cloudy. Always humid. Day 2 was Friday, we went up to the Tokyo Tower observatory, unbelievable views of the largest city in the world. Walking around and seeing different architecture, different foods.

    All the eating establishments with signs and menus outside that we cannot understand. We stopped several times at Family Mart, and 7-11 for snacks and drinks. We went to a food hall on Friday evening for dinner. It was fairly easy to navigate. Saturday morning we were stupid Americans and went to Eggslut for breakfast. It was pricey and mostly disappointing. And also not good for keeping my cholesterol in check. We left the apartment at about 9 am and walked all day until about 6:30 pm. We also stopped into a foot and body reflexology establishment and each got 30 minutes of foot and 30 minutes of body reflexology. My feet are bruised from the pressure. Not sure I would do that again. Massage would be my preference.

    We stopped into the apartment before heading out to find some dinner. I immediately stripped and got into a cold shower. It felt amazing. Relaxed for about 30 minutes and then went to find a soba tempura place in our neighborhood. We had a similar experience to our first night at the sushi restaurant. In this neighborhood it seems, they do not cater to English speaking tourists. They did not have an English menu available. We were able to communicate that we wanted a combo soba/tempura set. I got some yummy cold sake and Jorma got a beer. It was a tiny neighborhood restaurant with 3 tables and 2 seats at the counter looking into the kitchen which is where we were seated. Always interesting to watch them prepare our food. Our bill was about $40 USD which was a little over our budget but not expensive compared to CA and it was worth it! Food was very good and the adventure was awesome. One of the patrons was intrigued by us being there and came to talk to us right as our food was presented. He asked us where we were from and how we ended up at that restaurant. Jorma explained that we were staying in this neighborhood. He told us in broken but impressive English that we had chosen a wonderful, special restaurant that makes its own buckwheat noodles. He helped us by explaining how to dip the noodles in the sauce. He had a huge smile and was very friendly!

    Overall I am intrigued and overwhelmed by Tokyo. I am curious about the fact that they use English characters very much. For example: all their beers are labeled in English, many of the building names are in English characters, some eating establishments are English names (I'm Donut?). But that doesn't mean that they will automatically speak English with us even though I am convinced that many of them know more than they let on.
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  • Day 4–9

    Nakano Days 4 and 5

    October 1, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    On Sunday I went to Body Combat at 3:10 and Pump after. We got out before that to get some ramen on Yukushi Ai street. It was spicy and good! I walked 1.5 miles through some neighborhoods and along the creek trail to get to Alice Sports Club. I never know what the front desk experience is going to be like but I usually figure it out. Google translate on my phone was helpful here. I found it interesting that there were mostly older (than me) gentleman in the class. The instructor was very cute and super energetic. She was doing the latest release, 96. The class was pretty subdued until she turned the lights down and turned the disco lights on for the Muay Thai track. It was awesome. Pump was great as well. I wish it was easier to find and fit in classes while we are traveling but sometimes I cannot make the schedule work. We had a yummy temaki dinner in Harajuku. It was a very cool vibe, all the guys behind the counter yelled out something every time folks came in or out.

    On Monday we went to the Tsukiji fish market and to the Ginza shopping area. We spent way too much time in an 8 level stationary store and then onto the huge Uniqlo. The weather was perfect. Dinner was Ippudo ramen where they feature two plant based ramens.
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  • Day 10–15

    Back in Tokyo for 5 nights

    October 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We rode the bullet train, Shinkansen from Sapporo back to Tokyo. The train from Sapporo was not a bullet train. Our seats were outside the green car because it was fully booked and we would not have been able to have seats together. It was approximately a 4 hour ride. We transferred to the bullet train and had two roomy seats in the green car. It was a very comfortable ride, smooth and very fast. There was no food service on the train other than a snack cart. Fortunately we knew that and were able to grab some bento boxes at the station in Sapporo. We picked up a few more snacks and drinks at the transfer station. Jorma was a little disappointed that I had the window seat but also that much of the ride was through tunnels (under the ocean!). When we were outside the tunnel, there was high plexiglass blocking the view. I did see a rainbow right before sunset though so that was cool.

    Our train ride ended back in Tokyo at 19:04. Have I mentioned that sunset is around 17:10 pm here? Sunrise is super early but so is sunset. We had a little over .5 miles to walk to our Air BnB in Asakusa. It was dark but Jorma had no problem navigating us to our apartment. We were able to get in easily (not always the case). The apartment is a very similar layout to the first apartment we stayed in. One difference is that there are two windows, one is a sliding door to a balcony, SO NICE! We walked into the living/sleeping area and both beds were made up- a futon and a twin bed. I took the twin bed and although I think it is a better bed, neither of them are great.

    One of the things I love about Japan so far is that they always separate the toilet into its own room. And there is always a washlet (bidet). I think the toilet should always be separated.

    We are not as close to a train station here but we are close to a pretty busy area so we can easily walk to shopping and restaurants. And of course Family Mart.

    Jorma keeps commenting on how quiet it is here. It truly is. There are large apartment buildings in every direction but almost no noise on the streets. It seems to me though that the Japanese can be extremely quiet but they also have places that are very loud such as discount department stores (Don Quixote and Bic Camera). There is always loud music and speaking throughout Don Quixote. It is so chaotic and overwhelming in there. But they pretty much have everything so you probably have to go in there at some point.

    We explored the Asakusa and Akihabara neighborhoods on Sunday. We walked towards and around the Senso-Ji temple. It is Tokyo's oldest temple. It is a very busy tourist area. We also saw the Nezu shrine that was very beautiful with the orange colored gates. In both areas many young people were dressed in the ritual or traditional dress. The girls are very beautiful and many of them were doing photo shoots. I love seeing the young people exploring their culture and history.

    We found some yummy ramen and had some small beers with it. We were directed upstairs to sit. We were asked to remove our shoes before walking up the very steep steps. The upstairs was very cozy but we had to sit on cushions on the floor. Jorma said that was the longest he had ever had to wait for a bowl of ramen! It did seem like a long time. We had the cozy upstairs to ourselves for a bit which was nice. We enjoyed our ramen and then had to stand up and navigate back down those steep steps with our stiff legs, backs and hips. Nothing like sitting on the floor to make you feel almost 55!

    Yesterday (Monday) I had a disappointing experience attempting to take a combo Body Pump and Body Combat class. It was pouring rain so I decided to take an Uber (taxi), I didn't want to be drenched when I got there. But I got there and was told multiple times that I couldn't join the classes because the facility was members only. I was using Google translate to explain that I was an instructor visiting the area and was hoping to take both classes. I nicely asked if I could speak to a manager but was told that he was not at his desk. I knew the name of the instructor, Daigo so I asked if I could speak to him. He came down to the front desk and I asked him if I could attend his classes. He said yes and also said yes the front desk and walked away. I waited for a few minutes until the front desk guy came back and told me again that I could not participate in the classes, it was for members only. As Jorma and I were leaving he spoke in English to say he was sorry he could not help me and wished us a nice day. He was sincere in his desire to help us.

    We took the train a few stops to another facility that had a Pump class later at 15:25. It was only 11:15 but we wanted to be sure I would be able to take the class before we planned our whole day around it. I was told the same thing, class is for members only. Next time I might ask if I can buy a pass for 7 days. I am going to try yet another club today that has a 30 minute Combat at 12:15 and a 30 minute Pump following. Fingers crossed that I can get in.

    After the second rejection from a fitness club we walked around and explored in the rain. There are umbrellas for anyone to use everywhere. Our apartment had 20+ umbrellas at the door for anyone to take. When you go into a shop or restaurant you leave your umbrella at the door. You may or may not get the same one when you leave.

    I was pretty hungry by the time we left the second gym so we went looking for some food. I mentioned onigiri (not from a combi store) so we were searching for that. We found a restaurant close to our neighborhood that had a set, soup+ onigiri+ drink. On our way to the restaurant we saw a bakery/bread shop that had seasonal pumpkin shaped melon bread. Good thing I decided to try one because there was a queue for the restaurant. We waited in the rain for 40 minutes to get inside and place our order. The soup and rice balls were yummy. The serve yourself cold green tea was also very good. We did some more walking and exploring. We ended up back at the Rox mall near our apartment. We did some shopping at Gu, Uniqlo and Don Quixote before coming back to our apartment to regroup.

    Walking around exploring here makes me very tired. I had to take a nap when we got back. I believe it is the stimulation of walking in a crowded city combined with everything being in another language. I do find it interesting that so many signs and branding are in the English alphabet. Wouldn't it be so weird to have signs and product labels in the Japanese alphabet in the US?? In addition, most businesses play American pop music. I do find it so interesting. In contrast, it is pretty challenging to find someone that speaks English here.

    I like it here and could spend more time here. I would definitely need to take some online Japanese language classes. I would have a tiny flat and a bicycle and a train pass. It would be fun to continue to explore and try all the amazing foods. I would love to meet some locals and learn more about their culture.

    One more observation and I feel sure this is true for most people of any heritage. The toddlers and the elders are adorable!
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  • Day 14

    Day trip to Hakone

    October 11, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Took the Shin-Okansen from Tokyo station to Odawara. Jorma is renting a car to check out Hakone. He likes to add the extra challenge of driving in small mountain towns to driving on the opposite side of the road. He manages it quite well.

    We parked at the base of Mt. Kintoki. Jorma kept warning me that it was a steep hike. He said it was about 3 miles total though so I felt like I could handle that. It was a tough, steep hike. Mostly steps built into the trail but also some rocky parts. It definitely felt relentless when we were getting close to the top. The views were awesome though. Jorma had told me that on his trail run in Sapporo he saw so many elderly people hiking. It was the same on this trail. That always puts the challenge into perspective for me! We met a gentleman at the top who asked us where we were from. He was wearing short, shorts and over the knee socks. I asked him where he was from and he told us he lives at the base of the mountain. He hikes to the top about 4 times per week.

    We drove the Hakone Skyline which Jorma said looked like the Foothills Parkway. Did a bit more exploring through Hakone and the surrounding area before returning the car and jumping back on the bullet train for our last night in Tokyo.
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  • Day 26–35

    Kyoto, Osaka

    October 23, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Last week+ of our time in Japan. Took the train today from Kyoto to Osaka. We will spend 3 nights here then fly to Taipei Taiwan for country number 2.

    We spent the last 6 nights in Kyoto. Kyoto was my favorite place in Japan so far. It is the cultural center of Japan. There are a lot of tourists so they must feel the same. It is very beautiful with mountains surrounding and many gorgeous temples and shrines. The weather was perfect while we were in Kyoto. The highlights were doing a Geisha/Maiko makeover and photo shoot on my 55th birthday, walking through Nishiki market during the thunderstorm, Furishima Inari shrine and the bamboo forest there.

    It might be that I felt overall more relaxed during our extended stay in Kyoto that helped me enjoy the area. Or perhaps I am starting to relax more overall.
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