• WheresWally
Mar – Apr 2024

THE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP

A 17 day trip up the WA coast from Fremantle to Geraldton, then out to the Abrolhos Islands for 5 days. Followed by a return to Pt Denison. Travelled on the good ship Haywire, a Benateau First 35 foot yacht, with good friends Lesley & Tony. Baca selengkapnya
  • Awal trip
    22 Maret 2024

    Introduction.

    21 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    SAILING TO GERALDTON AND THE ABROHLOS ISLANDS - A HAYWIRE TRIP.

    A 17 day trip up the West Australian coast from Fremantle to Geraldton, then out to the Abrolhos Islands for 5 days. Followed by a return to the mainland at Pt Denison.

    Travelled on the good ship Haywire, a Benateau First 35 foot yacht, with good friends Lesley Scogna and Tony Davies. Also accompanied by Pete Sands on the Freo - Geraldton sector.

    The Abrolhos Islands are most famous for the wreck of the “Batavia” in 1629. Which resulted in mutiny, murder and savagery and an amazing recovery.

    Abrolhos translates loosely to “Look and sea”. No doubt coined by the Batavia crew!

    Great background reading:

    Batavia by Peter FitzSimon. Historical, with some fictional padding. A great read.

    Also a book by Hugh Edwards: The Island of Angry Ghosts. Good historical backgrounding on a variety of shipwrecks including the Batavia and thereafter.
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  • Fremantle Sailing Club.

    22 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    22 March, Friday.

    Watched a good game of AFL at home then headed down to the Fremantle Sailing Club, where the good ship Haywire is berthed. I boarded at about 7:30 pm.

    Tony and Lesley had gone down at about 5 pm with my gear and the last of the provisioning.

    Pete Sands, a good mate of Tony’s had just preceded me.

    Had a vino or two, a mini strategy conference and then turned in about 9:30 pm.
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  • Fremantle - Twin Rocks.

    23 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    23 March, Saturday.
    0600-1200 Freo - Two Rocks 75km
    E, 15-20kts. 2m swell

    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    L: Ham, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    D: Salmon, Sweet potato mash, broccoli

    Up at 5:30 and away at 6am with first light. Pleasant Easterly of about 10 kts.
    Sails up once we had cleared the harbour.
    The varied lights of Fremantle gave way to a rather colourful dawn.
    Easterly stayed in at about 12-15 kts , so a very easy broad reach up the coast.

    Lancelin was going to be too far to complete in daylight. Not wanting to come into the anchorage in the dark as there is a lot of reef immediately offshore.

    Berthed up at Two Rocks marina. Marina was built in the late 70’s/early 80’s to accomodate the Sun City development of Alan Bond. Sun City never got off the ground really, so as a consequence the marina is very much under-utilised.
    We went up to the small IGA minimart and topped up on a couple of provisions and had an ice cream.

    Lesley cooked up a very tasty dish of fried salmon, sweet potato mash and broccoli. Washed down with a beer and a vino.
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  • Twin Rocks - Lancelin.

    24 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    24 March, Sunday.
    0700 - 1315 Two Rocks - Lancelin 62km
    E: 15-20, G25. 1.5m
    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    Snack: Fruit loaf
    L: Ham, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    D: Chicken curry (pre frozen) & rice

    A slightly more leisurely start at 7 am after coffee, which Les religiously prepares each morning. Not a big day today either as we only have approximately 30 nm to cover to reach Lancelin.

    No berth or moorings for us at Lancelin so we anchored up in about 8 metres of water.

    A leisurely afternoon including a zizz.

    A rather stunningly colourful sunset, followed by a near simultaneous full moon rise. Pretty unique.

    Les has spent and amazing amount of effort preparing all the food. A large number of frozen meals that just keep on appearing. Tonight’s treat was chicken curry and rice.

    We played dominoes after doing the dishes. I had not played for eons. Good easy fun.
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  • Lancelin - Jurien Bay

    25 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    25 March, Monday.
    0700 -1500. Lancelin - Jurien Bay 95 km
    NE: 15 kts
    Becalm: 0930-1100. Motored.
    SW: 5, then 8 kts
    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    Snack: Brioche
    Lunch: Ham, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    Dinner: Steak, mashed potato, carrots & Brussel Sprouts

    A slightly longer day today. Sailed for a bit over two hours then we motored as the wind had dropped right out. A very light sea breeze was not enough to entice decent life out of the sails.

    A calm anchorage at Jurien ensured a very pleasant dinner that Les cooked up. Steak and veggies. Went down very well, assisted by a white and a red.
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  • Jurien Bay - Green Head.

    26 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    26 March, Tuesday.
    0715 -1030 Jurien Bay - Green Head. 33km.
    Drifting E - motored all the way
    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    Snack: Brioche.
    Lunch: Chicken, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    Dinner: Ravioli & Bolognaise, Salad

    A very short day today. Done and dusted by mid morning. Anchored up at Green Head It is a good safe haven and it was too far to have gone thru to Pt Denison.

    Pasta and bolognaise, salad and vino, plus Toblerone for dessert. Another very satisfying meal.
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  • Green Head - Pt Denison.

    27 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    27 March, Wednesday.
    0545 - 1545 Green Head - Pt Denison 105km
    Calm, motored all the way
    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    Snack: Fruit cake
    Lunch: Chicken, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    Dinner: Pub Grub

    An early start as this was another longish day.

    Virtually no wind, so we motored all day, which was a little disappointing. We made it to Pt Denison in about 10 hours, which included manoeuvring via the marker buoys and leads at both Jurien and Pt Denison. Under motor Haywire makes about 6 kts and under sail an average of 4-6 kts, depending on wind direction and speed.

    Berthed up at the supply jetty. Refuelled , connected to 240V power and topped up the water tanks.

    Then off to Southerleys, the nearby watering hole. A cleansing ale, a vino or two and a pub grub meal ( actually very good food).
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  • Pt Denison - Layday.

    28 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    28 March, Thursday.
    Layday Pt Denison

    Port Denison - Dongara is a twin town. Two towns which have grown over the the years and merged. Over an area about 5 km long with a fixed population of about 3000. A significant number of retirees live here. Nice town, good community facilities. Excellent marina and a good caravan park adjacent.
    So we decided on a layday. A bit of supermarket shopping, some fishing tackle purchases at the local sports store and a coffee and cake at Poppies coffee shop. A swim and a shower were well appreciated too.
    Les bought some oysters and prawns from the seafood outlet right on the marina, about 50m from the boat.
    Dinner was oysters a la natural, and prawn risoni pasta and salad. Seriously delicious!
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  • Pt Denison - Geraldton.

    29 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    29 March, Friday.
    0545 - 1245 Pt Denison - Geraldton. 78km

    BF: Muesli, Yoghurt & Fruit
    Snack: Fruit cake & Fruit
    Lunch: Ham, lettuce, cheese and tomato sandwiches
    Dinner: Chicken curry

    A relatively short day. Negligible wind, so all motoring.

    Arrived at Geraldton at lunchtime and had a cruisy afternoon, including a swim.

    A very pleasant evening meal prepared by Lesley. Followed by another game or 3 of dominos.
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  • Geraldton - Lay day.

    30 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    30 March, Saturday.
    Lay-day Geraldton.

    BF: Toast
    Lunch: Sandwiches
    Dinner: Spag Bol & Salad

    Pete had a taxi booked for about 6:30 to take him to the airport for an 8 am flight back to Perth. We said our farewells and agreed would definitely catch up either in Perth or the UK, as he and his wife Liz do a somewhat annual shuttle from Blighty.

    Had breakfast then Les and I did a shop up at Coles and Liquorland. Only a five-minute walk (trolley push!) from the marina, which was very handy. Had a swim at a nice beach about 10 minutes walk away.

    We pumped up the Zodiac runabout and made sure it was all ship shape. Also gave Haywire a good wash down.

    After lunch, we went to the Geraldton Museum which was also only a 5-minute walk from the boat. Excellent display on the early maritime history of the region, especially focusing on the Batavia saga, which is fascinating. Plenty of wreck artifacts on display. Also a very good space exhibition, particularly relating to WA and Australia’s involvement in the Apollo lunar program. Only got about halfway around all the various sections as had not realised the museum closed at 3pm. Oh well, another day. A replica of the Batavia longboat that Pelsaert and a handful of his men sailed to Batavia (Jakarta) is moored in front of the museum. Amazing feat to have made that passage in such a small vessel and in only about 30 days.

    Pete sent us a photo of Pt Denison taken as he flew overhead back to Perth. Took him about 7 minutes to travel what had taken us half a day sailing,

    After a hearty meal of spag bol and salad we were in bed by 7 pm as we planned a 2330 wake up for a midnight departure for the Abrolhos.
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  • Geraldton - Guano Jetty, Pelsaert Island

    31 Maret 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    31 March, Sunday.
    0015 - 0845. Geraldton - Guano Jetty, Pelsaert. 95km

    BF: Hot X buns
    Lunch: Same, tinned ham
    Dinner: Steak (Dirty Good Food) and veggies.

    The big adventure day!

    We decided on a midnight start as it is a 50nm passage and we were advised to aim to get there by early afternoon or better, as there is then a better chance of getting a mooring. Very substantial moorings are provided by the Dept of Transport, capable of securing 25m boats. But they are few and far between, with six in the S section of the Pelsaert group. Anchoring is less desirable as the water is deepish with a varying bottom. We were advised that the SE area of the Pelsaert group is preferable for the reasons of good fishing, plentiful crays and relatively close proximity to Geraldton.

    The forecast was for 15-20 kt SE winds, which was very favourable for the sailover.

    We cleared the Geraldton shoreline and the wind continued to pick up. 20 kts became 25 to 30 kts, with shifting gusts in excess of 35 kts. The seas continued to rise, the further offshore we went. A hairy night’s passage indeed. Intimidating gusting and shifting winds and seas. In the big gusts the yacht somewhat uncontrollably headed up into the wind. The wind shredded the jib. I spent 6 hours on the helm. Kept me from feeling seasick!

    We arrived at the passage entry point at about 6:15 just on dawn. We needed the daylight to help navigate the somewhat complex and at times narrow passage towards Guano Jetty mooring area. Motored in slowly. The seas had abatted as we were now in the protection of the islands, but the wind was still howling. Luckily there were 2 or 3 moorings available and we were all secured by just before 9am. All very relieved to be there!
    A breakfast of hot cross buns and coffee, followed by a sandwich lunch. Then it was time for an afternoon recovery sleep.

    Lesley cooked a great dinner of steak and veggies. Sure went down well. Beer, vino and port assisted!

    Needless to say, turned in for an early night.
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  • Pelsaert Island.

    1 April 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    1 April, Monday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Muesli, yoghurt with preserved fruit
    Lunch: Salad and beef sandwiches
    Dinner: Chicken Curry (RTE)

    Nothing day. 20-25kts SE still blowing despite the forecast not indicating so. Water too choppy for the Zodiac.
    Fishing was unsuccessful, only two under size Coral Trout. They went back.

    Mainly chilled for the day. Reading the weekend newspapers, and listening to podcasts and a good audio book, in my case.
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  • Pelsaert Island. Big fish day!

    2 April 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    2 April, Tuesday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Toast
    Lunch: Groper and salad
    Dinner: Groper and salad!

    Wind eased a bit. Caught a very decent sized Baldchin Groper off the back of the boat. Probably about 5 - 6 kg. Very chuffed. Got him aboard just in time. Another 3-5 seconds and a 2m tiger shark would have had him.
    Filleted him and got 4 excellent fillets. Threw the skeleton overboard, before it had sunk 3 large tiger sharks were at the stern of the boat. Big one probably 3+m. Judicious swimming off the boat from hereon in !
    Two meals from the Groper. Magic eating, lunch and dinner. Washed down with a good vino of course. One of the nicest fishes I have tasted.
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  • Pelsaert Island. Seafood fiesta day!

    3 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    April 3, Wednesday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    First day of acceptable wind, about 10-12kts SE.
    All enthused about fishing, but only managed a small snapper.
    Changed over the jib sail, as we had shredded the one coming over.
    Then got the Zodiac afloat and sorted. Les and I went ashore, about 200-300m away.
    Scott from Bunbury and his son and two mates ( who we had met at the marina in Geraldton) were stern into the beach in Brett’s 10m mono-cat. Monohul forward, diverging to a cat hull amidships and to the stern. Retractable keel allows them to stern up right onto the beach. Hydraulically droppable mast and trailerable, it’s a very practical setup. Spacious down below. Scott calls it his floating caravan. 10 m long.
    Had a long chat to Scott on all things boating and Abrolhos. He’s been coming here for 40 years.
    Les and I went for a walk along the beach on the western side of the island It’s only about a 100m wide here. Entirely consists of old dead broken and bleached coral. We returned along the inshore side which is limestone albeit only a metre or so above sea level, tops. I squatted down to check out some oysters when a sea lion popped up in front of my face! I actually touched him on the nose. Very inquisitive, he and his mate hung around for a few minutes.
    Back to Triple X , the mono-cat, and the boys had come back from a morning’s hunting. 8 crays, grabbed by hand wading around the reef about 3nm away and a Spotted Cod that Craig had speared. Promptly filleted, he gave us the wings and we had another superb super fresh fish lunch.
    Les and I motored back to the XXX Electra33 in the latter afternoon and joined the boys for a seafood feast. Some crayfish cocktail “nibbles” with a couple of different sauces. Then a sit down dinner. Accompanied by plenty of wash down fluids.
    We dined on baked snapper, crayfish mornay, haggis as a side, (as ship’s cook Neil is a Scotsman), mashed potatoes with beans, potato salad and pasta salad, plus a lettuce and avocado salad.
    Our contribution was the salads! Awesome meal, and the Boys from Bunbury were great company. Scott Talbot, his son Anthony and two mates, Neil and Craig. Motored back in the Zodiac to the good ship Haywire accompanied by a stunning sunset. A rather memorable evening indeed.
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  • Pelsaert Island. Penultimate day.

    4 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Apr 4, Thursday

    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Muesli, yoghurt and fruit
    Lunch: Sausages in wraps with cabbage, carrot and fried noodle salad
    Dinner: Spaghetti Bol and pasta

    My beginner’s luck with the fishing had run out. Not a bite from three sessions over the stern.

    Tony and I did a repair job on a tear in the mainsail. A fall back to days in Sea Scouts, about 55 years prior, recalling some sail stitching techniques, using needle, thread and a sailmakers palm . Plus liberal strips of gaffa tape. Interesting to see how it stands up to the rigours of the passage back to the mainland. Tony’s mate Steve is hopefully bringing another main up from Perth.

    An obligatory LLD - Little Lie Down after lunch then Les and I Zodiaced to the beach to have a swim as the several 3m+ tiger sharks we had seen off the stern of the boat were somewhat off putting for a back of boat swim. Chatted to the Bunbury Boys, said our thank yous and au revours, as they were heading home the next day.

    We got the marine forecast update from Geraldton Sea Rescue and decided to do likewise, planning on heading straight for Port Denison. Based on the forecast, probably a 10 -12 hour trip. So planned on a 6 am departure.
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  • Pelsaert Island -Pt Denison.

    5 April 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    April 5, Friday.
    0615 - 1830. Pelsaert Island - Pt Denison. 125km.

    Up at 5:30 and Les got the obligatory morning wake up coffee on.

    Off the mooring at 6 am as planned. A light NE blowing but as we were heading initially generally in a NE and N direction we motored as opposed to sailing. Very tight navigating thru the various reefs. Had a minor encounter with the bottom, scuffing the keel on the reef.

    Once clear of the Pelsaert Island group it was sails up and steering a SE course director to Pt Denison. A light NE prevailed, so a broad reach, but the wind only at about 8-10 kts. Wind dropped right out, so we motored from about 11 till 2 pm. Then a light SW sea breeze eventuated. Back to sailing, albeit somewhat slower than motoring. Sea breeze dropped out at about 4:30, so back to the “Iron Mizzen” (the engine).
    Motored into Pt Denison in a near glass off just on sunset. Very colourful sunset too. A relatively easy passage, albeit a bit over 12 hours. And the sail repair had held up well.

    Moored up at the supply jetty, had a quick shower then off to Southerleys, the nearby pub. Very busy Friday night with a not too bad live blues band. An hour and a quarter wait for dinner, but well worth it. A big feed of snapper? with chips and salad, which all 3 of us chose.

    No problem getting to sleep about 8:30 after a port nightcap.
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  • Port Denison. Layday

    6 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    April 6, Saturday.

    Pt Denison

    Cruisey Saturday. After breakfast, mid morning, Les and I walked up to Dongarra, approximately 4kms away. Very pleasant walk initially along the beach and past some silhouette “cutout” statues commemorating locals who lost their lives in various war campaigns. The track then went past a bird sanctuaty and then thru a bush trail for approximately 2 Km along aside the southern bank of the Irwin River before emerging just before the main street of Dongarra.

    We did a bit of of a provisions restock at IGA, and then went to the local Saturday market. I bought a door mat made out of flotsam rope that a women found washed up on the beach. All her articles were from rope similarly sourced, some very intricate. Other purchase was a cheese board with coloured resin on one end, again local artisan made.

    On our return we stopped off at Poppies under the big Morton Bay fig tree, and had an iced coffee and savoury muffin. On our return we took a nature trail on the northern side of the river, down to the mouth and along the beach. The estuary was sanded up as the river won't break thru till the winter rains. So a straight thru walk across. Approximately a 2km walk from there along the beach to the marina. Very pleasant indeed.

    I bought some oysters and snapper from the seafood supply shop by the jetty.

    We had sundowners on the back of the boat with a crisp chardonnay and the oysters. Magic sunset to boot.

    Lesley then pan-fried the snapper and served it with a potato salad along with a lettuce, avocado and tomato salad. Seriously delicious!

    Out with the dominos game and a couple of port postprandials to complete the evening.
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  • Pt Denison. Layday #2.

    7 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    April 7, Sunday.

    Pt Denison

    Another leisurely start to the day. I had a relatively late get-up at 7:15 after a bit of
    a lie in listening to Billy Connolly’s “Rambling Man”, his semi-biographical.

    After breakfast Les and I went for a walk to the south along the beach. On the south side of town there is vehicular access to the beach. It's quite compact and can easily accommodate two-wheel drive vehicles. There were a lot of cars parked up over a kilometre or so stretch of beach, mainly 4WDs. It was school holidays, so predominantly family groups. Great to see so many kids with their families having a great time. Some small waves and crystal clear and relatively warm water. Sunny and about 30 degrees, as has been most of the time we have been travelling. Pretty magic.

    After a round-trip walk of about 5 Km, it was time for a swim to cool off. In the afternoon a couple from Albury-Wodonga berthed up adjacent to us in a 36ft catamaran. They had bought it and collected it about 2 months prior at Dunsborough. They are planning on going up the WA coast and back taking about 10 months to do so. Had a pretty lengthy chat with them about the boat and their plans.

    Went to the Southerly pub again for dinner. We shared a dozen oysters and for main course Les had a linguine mushroom and chicken pasta and Tony and I had roast lamb. Excellent meals they were too.

    We were waiting for Tony’s mate Steve to drive up on Monday. Importantly he was bring up a spare (replacement) main sail. He will then sail back with them to Freo and I will drive back to N Cott.
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  • Pt Denison - North Cottesloe.

    8 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    April 8, Monday.

    Pt Denison - N Cottesloe.

    A leisurely coffee and breakfast, followed by a swim. Steve arrived mid morning and we removed the old main and fitted the replacement. Les prepared some tuna,mayo and salad rolls, which we washed down with a crisp old beer. I hit the road in Tony’s ute just after 1pm and after an easy and uneventful 350 km trip arrived back at CottShack.Baca selengkapnya

  • Conclusion.

    9 April 2024, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Conclusion

    An adventuresome trip, most enjoyable indeed. A very pleasant and sociable sail up the coast to Geraldton in very good offshore conditions, albeit the wind dropped right out for the latter part.
    A rather challenging passage across from Geraldton to Pelsaert Island, with some interesting navigation.

    A little frustrating the first two days moored up with the strong E winds being very persistent.

    Very satisfying catching the Baldchin Groper, very chuffed.

    Then some good time connections with Scott and his mates. Especially the seafood fiesta! A good learning curve for any future forays up there.

    A leisurely passage back to Pt Denison, with a couple of enjoyable days there before driving back. I find PD-Dongara a very easy going place, with excellent facilities and an easy, friendly vibe.

    A huge thanks to Lesley and Tony for having me along. Special times indeed.

    Footnote:
    The Fremantle Sailing Club’s publication Western Australia Cruising Guide is a fabulous guide to sailing the whole of the WA coast. The section on The Abrolhos Islands is very informative. Fabulous info resource, 400+ pages. It is updated every few years and is available as a purchasable PDF from the club.
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    Akhir trip
    8 April 2024