Villamayor de Monjardín to Viana

Motivated by the desire for coffee and breakfast, another pre-dawn departure beckoned. After leaving the Villamayor albergue, the first coffee was a 12km walk, so better to get moving early.

The first morning walk took me through mostly open agricultural fields, and a beautiful Spanish dawn sky, almost devoid of clouds. This was one of those times that I was truly thankful for the opportunity to let my thoughts roam free, leaving behind the typical ramblings demanded by everyday life.

Reaching the village of Los Arcos shortly before 10am, I was initially concerned that there would be little on offer given the virtual absence of people. However, after walking the streets for few minutes I came across a bakery displaying the most amazing biscuits, cakes and pizzas. Now armed with a pizza, I was directed down the street towards a piazza and a quaint little cafe. With the pizza and two café con leche put away, it was time to hit the track again for Sansol and Torres del Río.

Passing a number of vineyards again demanded that I taste-test the local grapes, and I'm happy to report that they didn't disappoint.

Today didn't offer too many towns to stop at, so it was a matter of keeping my mind on the 30km target to get to Viana. Finding a patch of cleared ground in the early afternoon meant a self-mandated break to soak up the sun and do some writing. A lone dog made his thoughts known about my presence by howling at me from a distance of around 30 metres. A vain attempt to lure him to me for a pat was unsuccessful. I guess that he couldn't understand my Australian accent.

Arriving in Viana shortly after 3pm was a relief, and after checking in to my albergue, and washing off the day's dirt, an early dinner with fellow pilgrims at a local restaurant was just what I needed. On another trip to this part of the world, I would love to explore more little towns like this one. It has a charming vibe, and people who make visitors feel very welcome.

Tomorrow will involve arriving at Logroño, a relatively large regional centre. I'm finding that I prefer to move through these larger centres rather quickly, and would rather stay at albergues in smaller villages. The hospitality of the hosts at these smaller places is always a treat.

Steps: 45,000
Distance: 30.1km
Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 153.8kmRead more