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Seoul tripping

March 2023
A new experience Read more
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  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    2
    2
    Day 1

    Setting off

    March 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Heading off to the airport- leaving my tropical home for a colder (but warming by the day) Seoul. Well prepped by S & T I have cash for the subway from Incheon to my digs - which are VERY close to the station. I think I am correct in saying (Kerry?) this will be my first visit to any sort of Korea. Last time I made a comment like that I was gently reminded it wasn’t my first - so I tread carefully! S&Ts very recent trip has completely whetted my appetite so - bring it on! I bounce through Brisbane then a BC (2D) flight to Sydney ready for en early flight tomorrow morning.Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    21
    Day 1

    The getting there

    March 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Its always a journey when flying from Cairns to anywhere if I need the airline to be Qantas- however it’s not all about the destination - the getting there is all part of it. An hour and a half in Brisbane - they need to lay off the air con a bit though - be looking for a coat soon! They won forgiveness with Croser pink in pour - nice surprise! Nice but quick flight in BC with a classy Barossa Cabernet from Lambert and a croque monsieur - tres bon! Arrived in Sydney at a civilised time so stayed on the train for a Circular Quay tour. I do love doing this to quickly sample a great city. Back to Mascot and a short walk to my hotel. I have stayed here many times but this is the first I have been sent straight to the 5th floor to a king size room - no pouting required!!! It is only Ibis but it is only me as well! Until I reach Seoul there will be any number of pics I could have drawn from the vault as I do tend to same same - so apologies for scenes you think you may have seen before!Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    1
    Day 2

    Almost a Seoul destroyer

    March 14, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Had a good night and up early enough to get in a run and then an easy walk to the station.slight drizzle on the run but not for the walk. International was not crowded so all looking on track until- the Qantas check in asked if I had completed my K-eta visa. Well my blank look said it all. I am usually well researched but had not come across this before. I was pointed to the website and I needed to apply and have it approved - a. 15-20 minute wait. Well - 1/2 hour later I was no closer. The application wouldn’t upload my passport and the app I was directed to didn’t work. The Qantas airport manager was called and sent me to Flight Centre as they were sometimes successful. It took them 20 mins and $20 but application in! 25 minutes later the approval came through - 5 minutes before check in closed! Still time for a quick visit to the First Lounge where a glass of Pommery helped still the beating heart. I am with Dawn on this - I would much prefer to sit for a long time in an airport than run in an airport! Writing this bit on the plane- great crew but the clown in 24B has discovered the recline button - it’s going to be a long 10 hours! The crew saved me not long after - asked him to push it up! Watched the new movie Blueback - I have wanted to see it and can highly recommend! Great soundtrack by the incomparable Nigel Westlake. Fun fact - South Korea will be my number 30 country. I am counting Monaco but not the Vatican. I also don’t count those I don’t leave the airport (Germany, Ethiopia)
    Anyways - 12 hours later the flight is done (really very enjoyable) and a seamless border security and train find. My hotel is about 25 metres from the station and is better than my normal choice (plus an upgrade but no lounge). The airport and the train were relatively quiet but when on the street - BANG!! People and lights everywhere! Lots of street stalls but I wanted a beer and wifi so found a place nearby. No idea what I was ordering but I did understand I had to order for 2 (minimum). Kerry will nod as we always overdo the first meal. Spicy grilled meat with all the bits which I may not do again but the beer and the place is nice. Tomorrow will be a good chance to slow the heart even more and get some balance.    Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    2
    Day 3

    Hongdae beginnings

    March 15, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Went for a run and the streets were very quiet and it wasn’t tooooo cold. I kept pretty much in a straight line so I knew how to get home. Lots of winding streets and it would be easy to lose bearing. Decided to ease into this day with a breakfast in the hotel. The Korean based buffet was a delight. I tried the congee but it was a bit too ricey so replaced it with a lovely delicate egg soup (kimchi on the side of course). Then some stir fried noodles with a tofu and wild looking mushroom mix. I also added the sauce from a chicken dish (delish), a pork dumpling and some unctuous (only word possible) and sticky fried eggplant. Great flavours and an excellent start. I ditched the chillies as I was a bit nervy about the Korean Border Security but there has been a nice amount of spice so far -no fomo!. No plans today. I will do circuits of the area and perhaps seek out a market or a temple! I will let you know how I go this evening.Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    11111
    Day 3

    Out and about

    March 15, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    The day has alternated between overcast and cold and sunny and warm - the air is really quite clear but the town does have a bit of a smell about it. Probably it is the the air as it is everywhere. Walked around the Hongdae area and it is clearly a shopping and nighttime area - very closed in the morning. So - I caught the train(s) to Namdaemun Market. It is big and well known so worth a look. Required a train trip to Seoul Station then a lot of walking to the next line to Hoehyeon which exited straight into the market area. The streets around the indoor market area was more interesting than the market which was clothing and variety store stuff - huge but same same. No food inside and certainly not a produce market. Outside was the street food and everything I was expecting from street food blogs was there. Lots of fried food but also huge pig knuckle in pig knuckle stalls and also a couple other interesting themes. One was a batter cake affair that I hoped was the kimchi pancake and the other a classic stand up street diner with very traditional street food including blood sausage. I tried the pancake- they fold it into a cup - I ordered using classic mime and then as she passed it me she said ‘look out - it’s super hot’! Haha. It was ok - spring onion batter with a sweet mung bean paste inside. Nice but too sweet so a couple of bites then binned. Took a while to find somewhere as bins are non existent- wander what they do with their rubbish- take it home? I then tried the blood sausage - very soft and not strong flavoured at all - dipped in the soup and then the salt it was very nice. All eaten standing shoulder to shoulder at the counter. On the way back to the train I spotted a line at a door way. It was a very narrow covered in laneway that can only be called kimchi hall. There would have been about 15 separate lots each with a kimchi lady with her own little twist on the theme - fascinating and obviously very popular. Glad I saw it and walked through. Later in the arvo the clouds closed in trapping a growing smog and dropping the temperature considerably. I reckon we dropped a good 10 - 12o. I ventured out again to buy a running beanie as what I wore this morning in 8o isn’t going to cut it tomorrow in a predicted -3o! I also wanted to check out some potential dinner options. I wanted some real Korean fried chicken but didn’t find any today. Later I went out and found a place that looked ok. The staff were friendly and I chose a classic street food classic - tteokbokki . Small cylindrical rice cakes coated in a spicy sauce. Of course this was much larger than the street dish - enormous and clearly meant for more than one person. The street classic has seaweed covered rolls and so did this - there were several gyoza-type fried dumplings thrown in and several noodles - dried minute and big flat kway teow style. The flavour was great and with a super background heat - I did my best but sent a fair bit back. Enough beer so on the way home I bought a Chile Merlot from the 7/11 for a glass or two in my warm room. Early start tomorrow as I have a half day DMZ tour!Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    113121
    Day 4

    Tour time

    March 16, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Up early and - man it was cold! The run was minus 1o and I used it to scope out the bus meeting spot. Right next door to it was an old tram track turned into a linear park that turned out to a beaut track to run on. I got to the meeting point in plenty of time so had time to soak in the cold. I had so many layers I felt like the Michelin man. However I was relieved others were dressed similarly - not like Wellington! 42 on the tour and well hosted by Nancy. After border control the first stop was delayed by an hour as we had a discrepancy with numbers that quite rightly was viewed dimly by the army. It may also been a ply to get us to spend money in the visitors centre. I had missed breakfast and from the early looks it seemed like a Boston Burger was it until I ventured further and found a line of Korean food outlets. Fish cakes (eomuk) are on my of street foods list so this was chance to tick it off. The fish cakes are twisted onto a stick and placed in broth - and in this case udon noodle soup. It was DELICIOUS and and an excellent brunch - a surprise in a tourist trap. S&T know the drill - drive around with several stops including a super strenuous forced march down and up Tunnel 3. I wasn’t sure I really wanted to do it but went along and completed it - a long steep downhill, then a level walk with a lot of stooping until you reach North Korea then back again. A bit of puffing at the top - a good workout! The observation platform really showed what it was all about. This place is really about puffing out chests but with some serious potential consequences. My drop off was very close to the hotel and I picked up some street food from a stall just near the station. 2 more crossed off - gimbap which are like sushi rolls but a little different and twigim which tempura fried fish/veges. I had prawns and stuffed green chillies. Had them in the room as it was SO cold outside. The rest of the arvo will be doing Penguin, reading the papers and emails and enjoying a Korean beer or 3. In this cold I would really have enjoyed a club lounge - but not on so I will see how much Michelin man can endure! Tomorrow afternoon/evening I have another tour - this one a food an drink crawl in another part of town. Getting there (and back) will be tomorrow’s adventure.Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    2
    Day 4

    This night and…tomorrow

    March 16, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    A nice feet up and then rug up to go out to see what dinner be. I was thinking a meat skewer selection from a street stall and back to the room but - too much room time and I will have a big street food day tomorrow. I have been looking at this nearby place that online says they serve kimchi pancake (my holy grail). The signs outside don’t match but - gave it a crack. Of course no pancake but bimimbap is on my list so….. it really was tasty and the dumplings are Seoul specialties also (the shape). Tomorrow’s food tour ticks off another box- the host messaged me to say meet at this station. I looked at the map and it was the Gwangjang Market station - yay I wanted to come here! S&T you recommended it I believe? Thrilling!!! Cold run again tomorrow but my new new beanie works a treat - also wore it all day today - price of admission right there! If it’s a clear dayI might have a look at the Seoul TowerRead more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    1
    Day 5

    Friday hey!

    March 17, 2023 in South Korea

    Nice to run in some light this morning - still very cold. Happy to have found the linear trail pleasant running. I had read that ‘toast’ bought from early morning street vans was a much loved breakfast so I went down to a nearby van and decided on a kimbap version (over the other choices which sounded like standard toasties ie ham &cheese). Well I got a kimbap (the sushi type roll) that wasn’t what I wanted and was very bland without any sauces - so in the bin and down to the hotel breakfast - expensive but again delicious! Wonderful Korean spread. The day was setting out to be sunny so I headed to Gyeongbokgung Palace. A few train line changes but the train system is seamless (but be prepared to walk) - love the fanfare as the train arrives! Enjoyed the palace - a lovely way to spend some quiet time and soak up some culture. I then headed to my food tour station. I was early so I had a preview of the market - wow! I felt I deserved a beer so I went behind the stalls and though they initially weren’t happy I didn’t want any food they soon calmed down and I had my beer and an hours sit down! The tour group was 7 people and a great bunch to spend a few hours with. The guide is apparently some noted food and drink writer and he certainly seemed to be on top of his game. He pointed out the tourist traps of the market and the gems. He said he would show us great street food but it wouldn’t be the great food we would have already tried but some others. The tour went for 5 hours and included some Korean drink tastings - lots of stuff I wouldn’t have considered trying. We spent some time in the market and then went out into the back streets - a huge experience! The highlights? The noodle queen, Korean beef tartare, the kimchi tasting, the walnut pudding tarts, the brewed mochkli (??), true KFC (at last) - called chicken and beer here and finally a experience that will disappear soon - a few dishes in a traditional street tent. No more licences will ever be issued so when the owner dies… history right there! (and yes - along the way we were offered live octopus. Confronting but great shashimi!) I won’t add the video of the dish…… this was one GREAT tour!
    PS - there is kimchi pancake here (we tried the market special Korean pancake) and I plan to return tomorrow after perhaps a visit to the tower    Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    12
    Day 6

    Sky high

    March 18, 2023 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Well (long blog so settle in with a coffee!) - Saturday in Seoul. After last night I was a little later rising. The area was still very quiet and civilised- a lovely run. Hongdae (at least) doesn’t seem to be a day person! I tried the brekkie toast and while interesting and a local institution it isn’t going to be a ‘must have’ recommendation. I then researched both Seoul towers and decided on the World Tower - the 6th highest in the world won me! A long train excursion to get there but well worth it. The underground mall is mega and high end (Gordon Ramsey burger place to boot) . I emerged to take a short trip outside to see just how big the tower is. Then up the super fast lift to the 1st of 4 viewing floors. I took most of my pics early on but the sky was clearing as I was leaving (sorry). Huge city with lots of brown- I guess spring is only just starting- very interesting seeing the Olympic precinct. None of this perspective is visible from the ground and the tower, unlike the Eiffel Tower that appears wherever you are - this is the opposite and isn’t apparent anywhere I have been. On leaving I thought I would kill two birds and visit Gangnam and then cut across to the market I was at yesterday. Gagnam was worth seeing - I didn’t wander much, but it was very NYC. A tick I hadn’t planned ✔️Ok - back for the easy trip across town to the market. Nup - no matter how I tried to mix lines the machine wasn’t going to make it happen. The a couple of saviour options failed with me losing the tickets by having to exit before I returned the way I came - 50 minutes later but I got there and - it was very busy but I snagged a stall side seat at the kimchi pancake place. Holy grail done ✔️ nice but didn’t scream kimchi so I added some awesome mandu (dumplings). They served beer too but getting it was secret peoples business - by the time I leave I will have learned all the tricks I needed. Back home using the train routes I can nail! An hour or so feet up (and beer) to download pics and then a lovely catch up phone call with Kerry. She had a good day with the girls. I mentioned that some things I knew I could access in Oz (like Qantas partner lounge at Incheon) were just not available to me here 🦗 so after we hung up she was back with lounge info - train details and a suggested day’s itinerary for tomorrow!! My own PA just like that! So - dinner tonight. I really wanted KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) but knew the option I had seen - across the road was a national chain, the reviews weren’t the best and the dish was at least a whole chook. I stood outside and- yeh nah. I wondered a few streets away from the bright lights and almost went Vietnamese- but I decided to hold true and walked another 20m and saw this place that that served KFC but also a fair bit of other traditional Korean options (including kimchi pancake- will be on every corner now I have had it! The place just reeked local and popular with a switched on character running the show. I had the straight up KFC and a draft beer. I knew the dish would be big as I saw other tables get similar but - one dish for 3-4!! It was delivered and yes - it was huge. It was also A.MAZE.ING. Hard to describe but super crisp without being silly, moist and oily without being greasy. Simple condiments- salt, pickled radish, ketchup and American mustard. I tried very hard but was struggling to get to half way so gave up. I started to pack up and then the host slipped a doggy box over my shoulder- much appreciated as I have hated sending so much back this trip - great place. Surprisingly not waddling so I did a bit of a circuit home. It was VERY crowded and some of the street performers were out and about. As I turned for home I saw a classic tick off item I wasn’t expecting to have - egg bread! I had to give it a try (taste/nibble). Extraordinary- a soft boiled egg in a Victoria sponge type batter. Not too sweet and I could see this being a super comfort foot - another ✔️ and a great day!Read more

  • TravelerSeoul tripping
    1
    Day 7

    Last Seoul in the place

    March 19, 2023 in South Korea

    My last day - I struggled a bit this morning. The food has caught up with me I think. My last day and a lovely day (after another v cold start) so I decided to go for a big walk. First to the University gates where Mural Street is. Well was supposed to be because it is now closed off with some building going on. I then walked down to the river front. They have managed to outdo Brisbane by putting a massive freeway between the city and the river. No way through that I could see. I didn’t want to go back the same way so followed the river to where I knew it would intersect the main road back to my place. There was also supposed to be a memorial and an old ferry quay. I found the memorial (to a rather hideous slaughter of Catholics in 1866) - i did get to stand in the same spot the Pope did! No ferry though. Walked back through some back streets to the desired main street. Saw there was an indoor market if I detoured and took a parallel way - closed of course but it was a better walk. Back to the room for a leisurely pack up and to the train. It should have been very straight forward but the first ticket I bought wouldn’t let me pass. A few deep breaths and and a sacrificed ticket and the second one worked (you decide who was at fault - I will point at the machine). Into the airport and nothing on the screens that said Qantas- the volunteer I asked looked at the departure time and shook his head but pointed me down a lane. Found the check in counters and YAY they were setting up and only had to wait 15 mins. They weren’t Qantas staff and it was so well orchestrated it was entertaining. All good until passport control when my fingerprint didn’t work 3 times. Staff weren’t fazed and sent me to be manually processed- all good. Qantas don’t have a lounge so it is Korean Airlines. Nice but stark lounge with some tasty Korean choices and Cote du Rhone! I couldn’t handle the fried chicken balls so had some very tasty chicken broth and an excellent bulgogi sandwich- bulgogi is a staple here in Korea so another ✔️ The flight is delayed by 50 mins but my Sydney connection shouldn’t be an issue. - oh WELL DONE Dawn in round 1 tips! Go you Bombers - we do like beating Hawthorn.Read more

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