Sydney to Lord Howe Island

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Trip start
February 1, 2017
Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Annandale, Sydney
February 1, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 22 °C
Not the most common place to start a holiday but Annandale just happens to be where our accomodation is situated. A beautifully converted stables and hay shed, modern, comfortable and with everything we need for a four night stay.
The neighbour next door must be an opera singer as she was practicing from ten in the morning and still going at one - and no it wasn't a recording.
We set off to walk through Bicentennial Park along the edge of Rozelle Bay but first admiring the local Victorian architecture from tiny working class cottages to larger artisan's homes to the downright overblown enormous gothic mansions - the latter known as the Witches houses due to having ostentatious pointy towers like witches hats. So many of the smaller houses still have the original Victorian tiles on the steps and verandah
A grey misty but warm and humid day perfect for a good walk. I love seeing parks which are well used and this one was busy with dog walkers, joggers and cyclists. Anzac Bridge looks atractive from afar but very busy with traffic. The view across to the city was mostly obscured by mist but the moored yachts and cruisers were plainly to be seen in the marina. Sydney fishmarket was busy and smelly so we changed direction to walk along the Johnston canal to the Tramshed. Once home to numerous trams but now a restored building full of restaurants and wine bars. Rather disappointing for us as all we wanted was to stop for coffee and cake and it was a full meal or nothing. Back through the park, lots of noisy mynar birds and rainbow lorikeets in the pink flowering trees ( must find out what they are). Only five kilometres but a good start.
Photos
Kenilworth - a witches house
Witches houses
Albany the biggest witches house
Old Victorian tiles
Anzac Bridge and Rozelle BayRead more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
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Lord Howe Island
February 4, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
We are really here. Almost 19 years ago we promised each other we would come here one day so it's taken a while.
The flight in a little Dash 8 was uneventful nothing to see out of the window until the island came into view and I couldn't even see that with the engine and propeller in the way.
The sight from the airfield was breath taking, the huge mass of Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower even bigger than tourist photos suggested. Everywhere so green, massed palm trees and the background chorus of cicadas.
The welcoming committee of the accomodation owners was a lovely surprise as they took our baggage and drove us into 'town'. Very few cars here and a speed limit of 25km most people walk or cycle. Everyone waves to everyone else as they pass by.
The shops, cafes, post office, houses etc are pretty much hidden away in the trees, no shopping street here. The trees are so lush it's hard to see through them.
The lagoon is picture perfect, you would think the colours had been photoshopped. And everytime you look South the two mountains dominate.
This is bliss.
Photos
The view from the airfield
The road to the lagoon (hidden shops amongst the greenery)
The lagoon with Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower
The view from our balcony
Sunset from the balcony
The balcony at the treehouseRead more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Another day on Lord Howe Island
February 5, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
Determined to join the cycling tourists today so first stop should have been Wilsons Cycle Hire. Instead got sidetracked by the local museum which for a very small island is a very good one - didn't get to see it all and then couldn't resist the allure of the cakes at the Museum cafe.

Finally got the bikes and slowly wobbled off down the Lagoon road which fortunately was empty.
Visited more of the beaches along the lagoon and on to the Catalina monument commemorating the loss of seven lives from a Catalina flying boat which crashed in 1948. Amazingly large pieces of wreckage are still lying in the paddock 69 years later. Cycled back to The Treehouse our accomodation or at least tried to. Too many uphill sections for me so had to resort to walking and pushing a few times.

Afternoon was spent walking to Transit hill lookout which gives 360 degree views. Although only 27 degrees C the humidity of 70 percent is really getting to me and I began to take on the hue of a beetroot. The track wasn't difficult but it was of course uphill so absolutely exhausting in the humidity. A lot of the path was through dense Pandanus and Kentia palm forest but no nasties to worry about as there are no snakes here. Saw an emerald ground dove and the sweetesr pair of white terns - oddly they don't make nests they balance a solitary egg on a branch.
Lots of flowering hibiscus especially the yellow variety and frangipani. 58 percent of the plants here are found nowhere else in the world a staggering fact.
The view from the top was worth every step. I can see I am going to run out of superlatives in describing this place.

Photos
The empty main road perfect for wobbly cyclists
White terns
The Island Trader bringing supplies every two weeks
Track through the palm forest
Pandanus tree
View from Transit HillRead more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Middle Beach and Lagoon Road
February 6, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Leisurely start to the day with a short walk to Middle Beach which is on the Pacific Ocean side of the island.
The track winds through forest and is littered with holes just right for spraining ankles. These have to be avoided at all cost as they are actually the burrows of the Muttonbirds. Up to one metre down the babies will be waiting the return of their parents at dusk.
Lovely sound of waves crashing on the beach so I found an overhanging rock to sit under and just looked and listened and loved the peaceful feeling it gave me. Meanwhile the old geologist investigated the rocks down to the other side of the beach. Only one other person in sight and he was leisurely swimming. Temperature around 28 degrees C and 70 percent humidity
Back to the studio for a siesta and later in the afternoon cycled south along Lagoon road. You can't get away from the enormity of Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird so why not go closer!
Lots of tiny little bays along the way and no one there except us. The islanders provide bike racks at every beach, lookout or interesting place. No crime here so it's quite safe to leave bikes, bags and wander off for a swim or walks.
Saw a few woodhen in the long grass. In 1980 there were less than 7 pairs of these plain little birds left in the world now thanks to a breeding program there are around 300 birds all on LHI.
Admired the stunning views from the golf course which is right on the edge of the Lagoon. Presumably there are a lot of golf balls in there! Walked along Lovers Beach as far as we could go in the time left before sunset (not allowed to cycle without lights once the sun is down and the hire bikes have no lights. No street lighting here so at night it literallly is pitch black on the tracks and the island' s one and only police officer is very strict). Tried to find a shortcut back to the road and ended up on private property surrounded by electric fences - back along the beach we went.
Arrived at the studio with five minutes to spare; once again exhausted, hot and sweaty and very pleased with ourselves.
Just another day on LHI.

Photos
Middle Beach
View from the garden of the Treehouse
Woodhen
View from the golf course
Looking down to Lovers Beach
The empty road to the south.Read more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Neds Beach
February 7, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Started the day with a large birthday breakfast at the Anchorage Cafe near the Lagoon followed by a browse in the local gift shops.
Weather slightly cooler today but just as humid so it was time to hit the beach and get wet. Neds Beach was the choice for today. We picked up the snorkelling gear kindly provided free for use by the accomodation owners and got on the bikes for what was mostly an uphill ride.
As we have come to expect in this lovely place the view of the beach was stunning and for once we were not alone. There must have been at least ten other people there. Neds Beach is famous for its fish. Many many years ago someone began to feed the fish there and the practice has continued. Now the fish are like pigeons in a park when they spot you eating a sandwich. The minute someone steps in the water they swarm around. Fish food is available for a dollar fron an honesty box but even if you don't feed them they still come. It's not all little fish either. Amazing experience for my birthday.

Photos are all of Neds BeachRead more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Old Settlement Beach
February 8, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
We planned to go on a boat trip today - a glass bottom boat to see the coral reefs and the turtles with a long enought stop on North Beach to go walking. Unfortunately something I ate had disagreed with me and a 3 and a half trip on a boat with no ...erm... conveniences available was not a nice thought so instead we had a leisurely ride to the jetty beach and into Old Settlement beach. The wind was picking up and cloud obscuring the mountains but the rain held off for our trip.
As the name suggests Old Settlement Beach was where the first settlers built their homes in the 1830's but no longer inhabited. It's yet another glorious wide sandy and very shallow beach. At low tide the wading birds can be seen feeding on the underwater grasses which have been exposed.
The old geologist was thrilled to find this beach was one of the most interesting geologically speaking. Plenty of lava exposed and intrusive dykes so while he busied himself understanding the geology I sat and dreamt the morning away on a handy flat rock.

Photos
Jetty beach with Old Settlement Beach in the background.
Old Settlement Beach
Disappearing mountainsRead more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Blinky Beach
February 9, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
A much cooler and less humid day after last night's high winds and rain. Whilst the lagoon still looks peaceful the strong breeze meant that the Pacific Ocean beaches were likely to be rough.
Cycled along the Lagoon Road to the north against the wind which was really hard going and parked the bikes at Blinky Beach opposite the airport. Struggled up the steep sand dunes to a beach overlooking the sea.
We were dumbstruck - yet another huge empty sweep of golden sand with rough waves crashing on the shore; the wind and the sound of the sea overwhelming us. The sea was truly turquoise, and the overtopping waves pure white. We sat and we sat spellbound by the beauty. How can one small island have so many areas, untouched and beautiful. This was the first World Heritage listed island and I can see why.
A walk along the beach and back. Dozens of juvenile sooty terns waiting mournfully along the beach for their parents to return from a fishing trip. Not at all worried by our closeness.
Later in the day a walk through the Kentia and Pandanus Palm forest towards Muttonbird point with idyllic glimpses of the beach far below. The tracks round here can be very steep and sometimes cling right to the edge of the cliff. This one did both and at one point had a rope on which to haul yourself up the path an experience we weren't expecting to have at our age!
Late in the afternoon a trip to the Lagoon for a dip in the sea and for the old geologist to practice his snorkelling. Again no one else around, just us, the sea, the sun going down and the mountains dwarfing us all.
How lucky are we.Read more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
Clear Place
February 10, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Quiet morning. Casual ride to one of the boat sheds to book a Round Island tour for tomorrow, picked up a cheese, capsicum and red onion pull apart loaf from the island's only bakery and sat on our favorite bench overlooking the lagoon munching contentedly.
In the afternoon decided to walk to Clear Place where you can sit and watch the aerial displays of the sea birds which have colonies on the nearby cliffs. A much easier track than others we have followed through superb Banyan forest. Whilst there are Banyans everywhere the ones on this track are so much bigger. Muttonbird burrows everywhere but no sign of the birds themselves. The track came out at the far end of Middle Beach. The cliffs here are very high and steep and the steps down to the beach so numerous we didn't want to contemplate the walk back up so gave it a miss. Instead we sat on a bench and marvelled at the colour of the sea. Next to us wad a plaque commemorating 20 year old Jake who went snorkelling and was never seen again. Such a tradegy for a young man in a beautiful place.
Continued along the track to Clear Place and were delighted to realise that you can see Balls Pyramid from here. Rising 561 metres sheer from the sea it was an awesome sight even though it was 23 kilometres away.
With much patience and sharing of the binoculars we identified the Red tailed Tropic Bird, Sooty Terns and we are fairly sure the Providence Petrel. There is a story which says that if you call the Petrel it will land nearby. So the old geologist gave it a go and called to the next pair we saw. They swooped down low and ......... crapped .... on both of us! So much for that story.
We sat for ages watching the arial courtship displays but found it difficult to identify other seabirds although a lovely twittering flock of Lord Howe White Eyes landed in a bush close to us.

In the evening we booked a table at the Coral Cafe and had a great meal amongst the Palm trees. Although the sun had just gone down we ambled down to the Lagoon beach to watch the stars come out and were thrilled to see Muttonbirds flying in to their burrows. We could hear the plaintive cries of the babies which at times sounded almost puppy like.
Intetesting walk back to The Treehouse in the dark. No street lights on the Island and as the houses are all set back and surrounded by trees no visible house lights to guide us. Fortunatly we were advised to bring torches with us so we staggered stafely back up the hill safely. One thing I won't miss is walking up that hill!

Photos
Huge Banyan tree
Middle beach from above
View from Clear Place
Cave in the cliff
Island Post Office
Community Hall where we watched old Island films for the local school fund raiser.Read more
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Sydney to Lord Howe Island Traveler
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Last day on Lord Howe Island
February 11, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
We arrived exactly one week ago and now it's time to revisit a few favorite places before packing our bags and returning the bicycles.
As it was on the first day the weather was sunny, warm and humid; wispy clouds adorning the summits of Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower.
A leisurely cycle along the roads, a drowsy rest on our favorite bench and then a last walk along the empty Lagoon beach at sunset.
The Island had one more treat in store as a solitary Muttonbird flew in at dusk circling round us again and again showing off her arial skills as she skimmed lower and lower over the water, wings vertical and almost dipping in the sea before finally landing in the long grasses to feed her chick.
A beautiful end to a perfect holiday.
Photos
The view from our favourite bench
Joys Shop the only "supermarket" on the island selling a bit of just about everything.
The hill back to the Treehouse,it may not look much here but it is a really steep hill to push a bike.
Emerald Dove usually found in the Kentia Forest
Last sunset on the beachRead more
Who are these happy relaxed people?
2/11/17Reply
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Trip end
February 11, 2017