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Christmas Market Trip 2025!
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  • Jen Ritchey

Christmas Market Trip 2025!

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    🇩🇪 Oberschönau, Germany
    Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Berchtesgaden Day 2.3

    Eilen, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    After our Buttnmandllauf Raymond was like now what? And I said I would like to go up to a viewpoint that we didn’t get to this morning. It wasn’t very far and the clouds were clearing up so it might be nice.

    Now when I was planning this online it said that that Buttnmandllauf are usually just for the people in the towns, there is no info on them, but there is the one that saw that was for everyone to enjoy. Well as we were walking up to the viewpoint we came across one of the secret ones! They were hanging out for a bit and there was a handful of people waiting for them to head to the next place so we waited with them. Their costumes were a lot nicer than the first ones we saw. The straw was like even more which was great! Though the Krampusse you had to watch out for as they would come and whip you in the leg! Especially if you are taking photos (I did get hit once and it hurt, but not as bad as I expected!). So then I was more careful to not be where they could get me and I kept running behind others if they were coming for me (in the one video at the end one of then comes right towards the camera and I am pretty sure he was coming for me! Raymond was secretly filming so they wouldn’t go after him and I ran behind him when that one came and then he gave up). But it was fun seeing the “real” one! I know some of the Krampuslaufs can get crazy, but the ones we went to last year were not so this was like a tiny taste of what they can be like (and I don’t really want to go to the crazy ones! This little bit was enough for me!).

    After they went by we walked up to the viewpoint and it was gorgeous! And you could hear the Buttnmandl and Krampus bells in all the small towns in the area! Sometimes it was hard to tell where exactly they were coming from. But I loved it! Bells all over!

    Then we started heading down the way we came and you can follow these Buttnmandl as there is a path of straw everywhere they go! So we caught up to then again and got to watch them go by a second time! Then they took a beer break and sat on the side of the road and we had to go down that way…but didn’t want the Krampusse to get us…so we hung out for a bit and cars kept coming by and the one was stopped for a min waiting for the car ahead and the Krampusse opened the trunk and doors and rang their bells for the people inside and it was pretty funny. Definitely up to their mischief! (Though they did close everything up again afterwards)

    Then we realized we could go up a bit and then back to town via the lantern path we took earlier so we did that.. but when we were getting near town there were couple Krampusse that came around the corner and I was like are they coming this way?? And Raymond spied and they were taking a break (no straw ones in the group just a ton of furry ones) so we walked through them. It was pretty cute seeing them all sitting there!

    Then a walk back to where we were staying and you could hear bells here too! I kept spying when I heard them and you could see them walking by the streetlights across the way and then the last time they walked right by the house! So fun! Apparently St Nicholas and a couple of them visit each house with children which is kind of fun, but also maybe not depending on the kids!

    All in all this was an amazing day! I loved our straw covered Buttnmandl and Krampus! I also really loved hearing all the bells all over. It was nice seeing a bit of the actual tradition in the area! We might have to come back next year! I really really enjoyed it! The next Krampuslauf is on Sunday so I can’t wait!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Berchtesgaden Day 2.2

    Eilen, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    After our currywurst lunch we went by a giant pretzel stand and decided to try one. I love soft pretzels, but this was one of the worst ones we have ever had! It was like all air? It was weird. Flavor was fine, just not a pretzel really? Raymond said it was like if you took a normal pretzel and inflated it like a balloon. So strange.

    Then we wandered around town a bit spying on things until it was time for the Buttnmandl and Krampus run! So here in Berchtesgaden area they have a slightly different tradition with the Krampus - the Buttnmandl that is covered in straw! I saw this last year when I was planning our trip, but it was on the same day as the big Krampus run so we went to that. When planning this year I discovered they are two days apart so we get to go to both! And I am glad we got to be here for this! It was so much fun!! The straw was so big it was ridiculous!

    They come from an army barracks outside of town and we had headed out to a park along the path a bit early and people were already starting to congregate (but not nearly as many people as the ones last year!) so we hung out there waiting for them. First came some angels on horses, then some donkeys with baskets of gifts, then some horse and carriages with little girl angels that threw candy out for all the kids. They were super cute (and there were a ton of kids watching!). Then finally St Nicholas and the Buttnmandl and Krampusse! We were right on the side in the front and the straw guys would walk close, but not that close and it was still like ah! Straw in my face! It was hilarious. And they kept stopping and jingling their bells and it was so much fun! We kept watching them go by then running up ahead again and watching them go by again and again until we got into downtown cause everyone else was doing that as well and there were a ton of people already waiting there for them and then it was like WAY too many people so we called it good and headed away from the crowds. We had been following them for over a half hour so I got to enjoy them! And I loved it so so much!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Berchtesgaden Day 2.1

    Eilen, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Today was an amazing day!! But long! We left the house around 10:30 this morning and didn’t get back till almost 6! We were out all day! And barely any breaks so I was impressed with how well my feet did. Normally without breaks my feet start hurting, but we haven’t been taking breaks like normal on this trip so I guess they are getting used to it!

    We woke up to a bit of fresh snow on the ground and incredibly foggy! Worse than yesterday! But after the sun came up the fog started lifting a bit and you could start to see bits of the mountains. Last night when we were sitting here Raymond was like is this place we are staying expensive? Cause like if we wanted to come back and go hiking…and I laughed cause you can’t even see the mountains and he already is ready to come back! Though we have hiked a bit in the area - Königssee is like 4km from the place we are staying and a few years ago on our first campervan trip we stayed there for a few days and did lots of hiking (and it was gorgeous!!).

    There was a pamphlet in our place about a historical walking tour that started and ended in Berchtesgaden downtown. It said it was 5km so we were like that would be perfect to do this morning! Yesterday we had seen a pathway up higher in the hills and I was like how do we get up there?? And well you follow this path (or one of the other ones in town)! We started off and spied in the cemetery with the oldest ever Berchtesgaden resident (Anton Adner who lived to 117), then on to the Franciscan church, then stared heading up in the hills. The clouds were starting to clear up a little bit which was nice (they kept clearing up and then coming back again all day). The one pathway that we met up with is the lantern trail with all these lanterns along the way which I enjoyed. The upper pathway was also along the salt brine pipeline path (over 200 years old and carries the salt brine to another town where it is further processed) and had some nice views over town. In the mountain photos the right most mountain (top is still covered in clouds) is where the Eagles Nest is (we hiked up the opposite side last time!)

    We only got about halfway through our walking tour when it was getting late for lunch and I was trying to decide if we should continue on or take one of the shortcuts back to town and get some food…it was almost 1 and the rest would probably take an hour and we had to be back to town by 2:30…and 2 was probably going to be too late for me to eat so we decided to go into town and maybe come finish the trail later.

    We got some vegan currywurst for lunch which was pretty good. It was right next to the tree topper stand and while waiting I went to spy…and my straw one was no longer there!! So sad for me. I was definitely going to get it as I loved it so much, but oh well. Maybe next time. I did take a photo of the ones they did have and some of the Krampusse are fun, but not as fun as the straw one!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Berchtesgaden Day 1

    4. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today we got up and headed to our next stop - Berchtesgaden. We could check in early which was nice so we headed straight here. I was a tad nervous that the seats in the car would makes my back worse as it was feeling pretty good this morning, and I had Raymond drive, and the passenger seat is awful too! So I ended up sitting in the back which was much more comfortable! I don’t know why those seats in the front are so bad! Raymond even complains about how awful they are and he is usually fine with whatever. But we made the long-ish drive and got here and my back was still doing good so that is good!

    We are staying just outside the town of Berchtesgaden (the address is just inside Schönau am Königssee) and it should be surrounded by mountain views, but it was so foggy all day you couldn’t see anything. I’m hoping tomorrow it will be a bit clearer! It was only a half hour walk into town so we headed off to see what we could see. I planned this stop specifically for tomorrow - they have an interesting Krampus run with them covered in straw so I wanted to see that. I didn’t expect the town to be very big or interesting as a lot of the small towns we went to last year weren’t but they had nice views.

    When driving here we stopped for lunch and it was freezing! Literally! I was like why is it always so cold when we stop for lunch?? So when we got here and there was still some snow on the ground we figured it would be super cold like or lunch stop and bundled up…only it wasn’t? We were like how is it so warm when we are literally walking through snow?? But now we know not to bundled up so much tomorrow!

    On the way into town we kept seeing all these spiderwebs covered in ice which I don’t think I have ever seen before! And we walked down a path through the forest and Raymond was like we should probably go get flashlights as it will be dark by the time we are coming back…but I had planned to come back via the road so we were good (it would have been way to dark to go back that way!). We just went the forest way to go spy on the Krampus route for tomorrow! I don’t really know how many people there will be, there are no signs or anything about it happening, so we shall see! But there were tons of super cute Krampus things all over town!! I loved them all!

    The town was bigger and nicer than I expected. Lots of very nice art places and craft stores and I loved it. The Christmas market also was pretty good! Small, but not as small as we expected (and bigger than Bamberg!), but all the stands were super nice things or different foods. They even have 4 or 5 Vegan options which I was not expecting! So we are going to plan on having lunch there before the Krampusse come!

    All around town were also these giant wooden sculptures like those wooden Christmas ornaments. That was fun to try and find them all. We did go in St Peter und Johannes der Täufer (John the Baptist) church and it was very pink inside from the lighting! Not what I was expecting!

    The place we are staying had Christmas market mugs here as a gift for us and for us to use to get hot beverages if we want so we had brought them along and got something before we headed for home. I tried the blood orange punch which was better than I expected (I thought it would be just like hot orange juice, but it wasn’t really) and Raymond had a gluhwein which he enjoyed. It was nice having a hot beverage on our walk back!

    I did find a fun Krampus Christmas ornament that I love and some Krampus tree toppers (even a straw one!) that I am thinking about getting…they are kind of expensive, but handmade ceramic so it makes sense so we shall see. I forgot to take photos of them, but we shall spy again tomorrow and see if I bring one home with me.

    We also stopped at a cafe that had a couple vegan things and got a piece of walnut cake which looks delicious! That is for later, but it should be good! And I made some of my curry lentil soup which we love. I make it all the time as it is easy and quick and delicious! (https://jessicainthekitchen.com/vegan-coconut-c… this is the recipe I use if anyone is interested, but with yellow curry paste as I like the flavor more. It is not very spicy either so you can always add more spice if making it for people who don’t like spicy things).

    Today was a surprisingly good day! Berchtesgaden was really nice, the Christmas market was wonderful, and all the Krampus stuff was so cute!! I can’t wait to see them tomorrow!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Bamberg Day 2.2

    3. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    After spying on all the treat places we went back to the Christmas market to get a hot beverage since it was freezing out! It was a high of 3 and a little windy so back to being cold and wearing all the layers!

    On the way to the Christmas market we walked down tours street with trees with tags on them which I thought was like gifts for families that don’t have much. There were a lot of these trees full of tags and I noticed one of them looked like a cat…so I stopped to look and they were all full of cats? With what they want for Christmas on the back. It was odd, but I guess kitties need presents too! And some of the photos were great. So fun (though I just noticed that 3 of the tags in the photo are the same Kitty so maybe not as many as I had originally thought!)!

    At the Christmas market I had seen one place that had an apple pear drink for me, but they just had plain mugs with nothing on them so I was like fine! I will get a kinderpunsch at a place that has fun mugs as I want a fun mug! And Raymond got something with alcohol, but this kinderpunsch was the best in have ever had! Normally I think it is grape juice with something else and super sweet. Like one small cup is almost too much for me sweet. This was delicious and I almost got a second cup! I think it was cherry flavored but with something else I couldn’t identify and I loved it! One of the best hot beverages I have ever had at a Christmas market! So that was a really nice surprise!

    Then back to the house to hangout and relax. On the walk back Raymond pointed out the people in the second to last photo and at first I was like yeah? I guess it is odd people are out on the balcony as it is so cold, and then I realized they were statues!

    I had been thinking it would be nice to have a more laid back day as we have been walking so much every day, but then today would have been perfect to do nothing but I was like must go out and wander! Raymond kept being like don’t overdo it!!! Still a much shorter day than normal which was good. My back will hopefully be better tomorrow and all will be well :)

    I really enjoyed Bamberg a lot more than I did on our first visit. I think part of the issue the last time was we had just come from one of the prettiest, nicest, cutest old towns in Germany (Rothenburg ob der Tauber) so this paled in comparison. But without that I thought it was really nice and enjoyed our wanders.    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Bamberg Day 2.1

    3. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Today was a more relaxing day than we have been having. I slept in which was good as I didn’t sleep great with my back, but luckily it was starting to feel better this morning (and is doing better still now). Still a bit sore, but not nearly as bad as last evening so that is good. Going to keep taking it easy on it until it is all better. We have a long drive tomorrow again and I am hoping that doesn’t make it worse.

    So we lazed around this morning and then after lunch headed out for a short walk. We first walked up to the monastery on the hill, though there was scaffolding all over it, but you still had views over the city.

    Then it was on to the cathedral which was interesting as there were no stained glass windows! Just normal windows. We hadn’t gone in last time as it was closed so that was fun. Then we wandered through town spying on some treat places. We did up getting some whole wheat cinnamon rolls and some cardamom buns. I love cardamom buns! So tasty! Though I forgot to take photos of them.    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Bamberg

    2. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Not much for today. We had a long drive to Bamberg and then when we got here I tweaked my back slightly so I’m resting it and hoping it will be better tomorrow!

    We did go for a short walk and stopped by the Apotheke and spied on the Christmas market (much smaller than I thought it would be!!) and picked up dinner on the way back to our place - pizza with lots of roasted veggies and a fig cashews pesto which was delicious! And a Rosemary bread just to try. We were in Bamberg a few years ago with a friend for Easter and we ate at the same pizza place and I remembered it being really good and it still was! And we were glad there were so many veggies on it!

    I’m hoping my back will be better tomorrow so we can wander and see all the things, but we shall see! It’s not too bad right now, but I’m taking it easy the rest of the night :)    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Münster Day 2.3

    1. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After our break we went by the public library building, a modern building in the old town. Next to that was the Krameramtshaus - the original seat of the merchants guild and one of the oldest guild houses and where the Dutch emissaries stayed during the negotiations of the Peace of Westphalia.

    Then on to St Lamberti church where Cardinal von Galen (the Lion from Münster) preached his sermons criticizing the Nazis! The inside was more simple, but the windows behind the alter were very busy! And everyone was very impressed with the ladder inside (which is also on the outside spire and you can see it in the photos from yesterday).

    The last two stops were an old cloister (now a registry office) and Zwinger - an old military outpost that was converted by the gestapo to a jail for political prisoners. This was also in the park where the city walls were.

    All in all today was a pretty good day! Gorgeous weather (though it did start getting cold by the last church as it started getting windy and the wind was cold!), lots of fun churches to spy on, sing good food and drinks, and it was really nice. This was a stop because a friend had recommended it as he came here last year and I’m glad we stopped to check out Münster!    Lue lisää

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    Münster Day 2.2

    1. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After the cathedral we headed over to my favorite Christmas market (it was full of crafty things) for lunch and spied on the buildings along the way. We got some grunkohl which I was very excited about as I love grunkohl (kale), but this was more like potato soup with some grunkohl. Good, but not what I was expecting or wanting! We also got a baked potato with lentil salad, jackfruit, sweet chili and barbecue sauce with tortilla chips on top. This was really good, but I took like two bites and Raymond was like wait! And he stabbed a cube of something with his fork and tried it and was like I think there is mango in this…so he asked and yes the lentil salad had mango in it! I never thought to ask about that as it is not a context where I associate the potential for mango! So I went back and got a different one (the guy running the shop was very nice and when he gave it to me was like here you go! You can eat everything on this one! Which made me laugh). Mine was corn, salsa, seitan chili, and tortilla chips. Also very good, but lunch ended up being much bigger than we expected!

    After lunch we went by St Ludgeri church which was very blue and yellow inside! The windows were all very yellow and blue and it was very unusual! Nice and different.

    Then we stopped by the Christmas market at the Rathaus and I got some ginger pear juice (it was very gingery and pretty tasty!) and Raymond got a baked apple punsch which he enjoyed.

    We tried to spy on the inside of the Clemenskirche (the round building), but unfortunately we could not. The pictures look interesting and is in a Rococo style inside.

    Then on to St Servatii which was very dark (I know the photo doesn’t look like it but it was) as those windows in the front were so dark pink and purple and blue it just pulled all the light out somehow.

    Then a quick spy on Erbdrostenhof, a municipal building for this entire region. Super fancy for that! Then to the ruins of an old cloister and there were benches on the other side so we decided to have a sit. Across from us was a cafe and Raymond was like they gave a sign on the wall that says “oat milk crew” so they might have vegan treats…so I spied and they did! They were all vegan! So we got a tiny chocolate cake and a cinnamon roll. We tried the cake with dinner and it was pretty good! Cinnamon roll will be for later. Raymond was like I keep finding all the random treat places, which yes he does, but also we don’t need more treats! :)    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Münster Day 2.1

    1. joulukuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today we explored Münster aka the city with all the big fancy churches! Last night in the dark it was hard to tell just how many there were!

    We woke up to a gorgeous sunny day. A bit cold but not too bad. We are staying just outside of the downtown area and there are so many fancy houses everywhere! It is fun wandering and seeing what we will find!

    Nearby is the Heilig Kreuz church which was our first stop for the day. Lots of nice stained glass windows and located in a traffic circle! Then on to the park that circled the city (where the city walls once were) and the old tower.

    We then walked by the Diocesan Library (the largest theological north of the alps) that is right next to Uberwasserkirch. We went to spy inside and there was an art exhibit inside! Not what I was expecting!

    Across from the church is Antiquariat Solder, a rare books store which turns into the Antiquariat Wilsberg for the long running Wilsburg Krimi TV show set here! Apparently the private detective works out of his rare books shop. I’ve never heard of the show, but we might have to check it out when we get home.

    Then on to the St Paulus cathedral, which the main part wasn’t as nice as I had thought it would be, but the area around behind the alter was really cool. There was an astronomical clock from the 16th century and lots of interesting stained glass windows. It was hard to get good photos of them, but if you zoom in you will see like lines sketches on them? I’ve never seen anything like that before so that was fun. There is a large square in front that holds the weekly market, but we will miss that as we aren’t here on market days.    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Münster Day 1

    30. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    We got to Münster just at sunset and we had reserved a parking space at the place we are staying, which I was glad we did! The parking situation is kind of crazy and cars were parked willy nilly on the street and that would have stressed me out trying to find a place to park and trying to figure out if we could actually park there…

    Once we got settled we headed out to spy on the Christmas markets. There are 6 in town and the first one we went to was so busy you couldn’t move, and that was one of the smaller outside of downtown ones so I thought we might not be able to wander any of them if they are that busy. We can just come back tomorrow…but lucky the rest of them weren’t bad! The city was weirdly dark trying to walk around except for the Main Street which was lined with white buildings (though they might have helped make it lighter!). So not a ton of photos as it was to dark to see most things, but we did have a nice spy at the markets and found some things we are going to go back for for lunch tomorrow (and found some vegan schmalzkuchen - fried dough with cinnamon sugar which we have never seen ones we could eat before so we had to try them. Pretty tasty!)

    It was a nice wander and tomorrow we will explore the city more when we can actually see things! Should be fun!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Dusseldorf

    30. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Today we got up and headed to Dusseldorf to explore their markets. We had come here two years ago and we stayed in Dusseldorf then and I really enjoyed it. I loved wandering the town, the riverfront was really nice to walk along, there is a lake with lots of birds to watch right by the one market, it was great. I was curious to see if I would enjoy it as much after the amazing markets in Köln…and I did! Really I just enjoy the city so much more it is hard not to enjoy the markets too. It is so nice and I really like the vibe there. Much nicer than Köln. So much fun art all over the place and yeah we should come back again not at Christmas time and explore more (or stay there again next time!).

    It was only a degrees colder in Dusseldorf than when we left Köln, but it felt much colder! I had left my fuzzy jacket in the car as I thought it would be too warm, and I did have another layer that was just warm enough, but I could have used the fuzzy jacket again!

    We had packed sandwiches for lunch, but then we found all the things to eat so we saved them for dinner. We found some bun bao with tofu, cabbages, cucumber, carrots, onions, and a sriracha sauce - super good! Then we got some vegan curry wurst and a hot beverage and sat by the lake with the birds for a bit. I had found holunderpunsch and was like yes!! But they fooled me. It was just kinderpunsch, way too sweet and tasted nothing of holunder! I had seen a cranberry one earlier and thought I probably should have gotten that one…At least the cranberry one should be tart instead of overly sweet! Oh well.

    We also got some potato pancakes with lingonberry and that was super good. The sweet helped cut the greasy feel too!

    Then it was shopping Sunday today (stores are normal closed on Sundays, but I think 4 times a year there are Sundays where everything is open, or can be open) so we went to spy on the patisserie where we got treats from last time to see if they were open (normally they are not) and they were! We got a pistachio mousse tart and a mixed berry tart! Should be good!

    I had told Raymond when we got there that we had at least 3 hours till we could leave for our overnight stop (so we would get there at check-in time) and I thought that was going to be way too long, but we didn’t take much of a break and ended up back at the car over 3 hours later!

    Oh there was a fun adventure trying to park today. I had the cheap garage on my map and we were headed there behind a van and we go to turn into the garage and this big van decided they wanted to go in too after they went mostly by it. Raymond had looked up how high the ceilings were to make sure we would fit and they were pretty low, but we were small enough so no worries. But van? No way. Maybe on the top floor as they just made it inside, but that was full so you had to go down a level and that had another sign with a lower height limit…and van just decided to try and go down even though there was no way they were short enough and scraped up the top of their van and got stuck and then traffic was backing up behind me and I was trying to back up so they could back up and get out and it was a mess. But we were both like why did they think they would fit?!?! They were definitely too tall! Though the ceiling right there was pretty scraped up so they were definitely not the first too tall car to try and go down there!

    And I just realized that was the second parking garage thing that happened today! The first was when we were leaving Köln (we had parked in a garage) the car in front of us tried to leave before they paid which I was like have they never parked in a parking garage before? Cause pay before you go to your car is standard (at least over here)…and Raymond was like well they are not from Germany, but I was like I’m pretty sure it works the same way in France! So two people today not knowing what they were doing in the parking garage that I had to back up for to let them get out. Weird!

    But Dusseldorf was a great stop and I loved it. I was wishing we were staying overnight there as it’s just a city I love!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Köln Day 2

    29. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today we got up to a beautiful day! A bit of clouds, but for the most part sunny and gorgeous! I think it was 11 degrees today which is pretty warm for cold weather! Didn’t need all the layers again even down by the water where it was windy so that was nice. Tomorrow is supposed to be warm again and then start to get colder.

    Today we pretty much just wandered from Christmas market to Christmas market and saw what we saw along the way. First was the star entrance market from last night which was probably the least good market here in a Köln, but even that one wasn’t bad! I get why these markets are so popular as they have all been really great!

    I was glad we went to the Angel market last night at it was not as magical in the day! Still nice, I like the both designs, but without the lights it was missing something.

    We went to the main market at the cathedral for lunch of pasta with smoked tofu, veggies, and flammekuchen sauce and some vegan momos (dumplings) with a spicy Nepalese sauce - both of these were super good! Then we wandered through the other nice market from last night and spied on the ice rink there (it was really big! One of the biggest we have seen at a market!) then on to the market at the harbor. When we were walking up it looked like a ton of people and like you wouldn’t be able to move, but when we got up there it was fine. It wasn’t that big, but there were a lot of nice things (and we got some kinderpunsch as I really like the mugs! All the mugs at the markets you pay a deposit on and then can either keep them or return them for the deposit back. I kept this one as I really liked it, though I couldn’t get a good photo of it. I do have a small collection of Christmas market mugs, but only ones that bring me joy and we use them for hot chocolate at home :)

    We also found an empanada place that had two Vegan ones - a spicy seitan one and a spinach one so we tried one of each (luckily they were tiny) and they were really good! We also found some printen cookies which I love! We are stopping in Dusseldorf tomorrow basically just so we can get some of them as I knew they had them (they are from Aachen and are only available at a few markets! And they are naturally vegan!). They are spiced cookies with anis and they are the best! We got one covered in chocolate, yum!

    Then on the way back to our place we stopped by some treat places to see if they had anything we needed and the one place had so many things!! We ended up getting a matcha cheesecake and a poppyseed streusel - both were just okay. The poppy seed thing I had made before and didn’t like it at all and this one was better than what I made but still not amazing. And the cheesecake was not really for me. Oh well. We also got a gingerbread tart which was pretty good (we just tasted everything when we got home).

    After a short rest we headed out to another small market close to where we are staying and that one was also really nice. Lots of crafts which I love and lots of vegan foods! For how small it was I was surprised by how much food I could get there! We only ended up getting a cinnamon roll as it looked too good to pass up (it was still hot so we had a taste and it was delicious!).

    Then for dinner at got some bang bang noodles - spicy hand made noodles with gyoza and a free cucumber salad! These were good, but German spicy aka not spicy. I was expecting super hot, but oh well. We keep some hot sauce with us and we added that and then it was perfect!

    Overall this was a really great day. The weather was perfect and we were at the markets early enough that they weren’t crazy busy, though by the time we were leaving the cathedral one and the other one they were getting packed. All of the markets were really nice, had lots of nice things and fun foods and treats for us! Köln itself isn’t my favorite, it’s not that pretty and just meh to wander around, but I would definitely come back again for the Christmas markets! Especially at night - they were all magical!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Köln

    28. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    After our Bonn adventure we headed off to Köln where we are staying. I’ve been here before with a friend and remembered it was not the prettiest city, but Raymond had never been and the Christmas market is supposed to be really nice so I wanted to come check it out. We got settled in our place then headed out to the cathedral for the main market!

    The market at the cathedral was pretty nice and we found a few options for lunch tomorrow, but it was already getting crowded so we didn’t explore it all. I’m hoping tomorrow early it will be less crowded!

    Then there is a market on the harbor so I was like let’s walk over there as it is close…and we didn’t end up making it as we found other markets instead! Heinzel’s market was really nice and really big and it had a nice old timey feel with I loved. All the booths were decorated nicely and the lights were great! I was like this is the prettiest market we have been to so far for sure!

    And then we started to head towards home and found the Angel market and of I loved that one so much!! It was gorgeous! The blue and white lights are so so pretty!! One of the prettiest markets we have been to for sure! We even found some cookies that were delicious that we brought home (Raymond was like treats we don’t have to eat right away!! Which yes, we can save them and have them later!). I loved it so much I wanted to just hang out there all night!

    Then another market close to where we were staying (with a star light entrance!), but we didn’t spy too much there as it was so crowded and I hate not being able to walk because there are so many people. Plus it was almost dinner time so we had to head on for food.

    So we just headed back to our place where the LGBTQA+ market is (Heavenue) where they had vegan spätzle with an herb cream sauce, red cabbage, fried onions, and cranberry jelly! It was delicious! And made up for the no spatzle in Heidelberg! The one view from above is the view from our place of the market! We can hear the entertainment from the Christmas market and tonight it was drag queens which was fun. We also went down and got a matcha crepe for a treat which was so good! And not very sweet! I don’t know why matcha is such a thing now (we have seen at least one matcha themed store/resraurant everywhere we have been), but I’m not complaining. I love matcha so it is great for me when they have things I can get!

    So that was our day. Pretty great and I was hesitant about staying in Köln as I didn’t love it the first time I was here, but I am glad we are! The markets are really nice and I can’t wait to explore them more (and actually look at all the things for sale) tomorrow! It sprinkled off and on on us this evening, but wasn’t bad. And warmer than it has been! I had to take off another layer today as it was too hot otherwise! I think it was 9 the whole time we were wandering so not cold enough for all the layers. Tomorrow should be warm again so it should be perfect for exploring!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Bonn

    28. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Today we got up and headed off to our next stop, Bonn. Yesterday I had looked at how long it would take to get there and then on to our overnight in Köln and…The traffic was crazy at 4pm! Like it would have taken 40 minutes more to get to Bonn and an extra hour to get from there to Köln so I was like let’s see what the traffic is like in the morning as we can skip it if it is still crazy. Cause don’t want to stuck in the car for that much extra time! Luckily when we got up the traffic was back to normal and we had no issues all day getting from place to place. I don’t know what was going on yesterday!

    Bonn is a small town and the birthplace of Beethoven (the last picture is his birthplace!). We got super lucky with parking as there was a cheap garage that everyone was going to and when we got there there were spaces, but by the time we got back outside to walk into town it was full! So I was super glad we got there just in time!

    Then it had been raining on the drive in, but it had basically stopped while we were there! Super lucky again! It sprinkled a little while we were eating lunch, but we had our umbrellas and it had stopped by the time we were walking around again. The market was bigger than I thought it would be and was pretty nice. There were a lot of really nice stands with things I haven’t seen other places. It was a lot of fun.

    We did go into the cathedral and the organ was playing when we went in and I don’t know if it was out of tune or something but it sounded awful!! So so so bad I could hardly stand it. And so loud too! So we just took a quick spy, the stained glass windows were really nice, and then I went out the side door to get away from the music and ended up in the inner courtyard! I didn’t even know you could go in there! So that was a fun surprise.

    Then wandered through town down to the river and then back to the car (and we found another farmers market in the main square!) and back to the car to head on our way. When we got to Bonn I thought we have about 2 hours to explore, or at least 2 hours so we will get to Köln and can check-in right away, and and we got back to the car 2 hours later. It was perfect timing :)

    I really liked the Bonn market even though it didn’t have many treats for me (though I think I am getting treated out! I am not used to being able to find so many sweet treats everywhere we go!! I’m used to only occasionally finding a cake or something and we did find some in Bonn, but they did not look amazing enough for me to say okay to. If it had been earlier in the trip I might have gotten them!). Overall a great stop!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Frankfurt Day 2.4

    27. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Finally it was off to our last stops on the way home. A walk down Zeil (a pedestrian shopping street with a fun mall) then on to the stock exchange building (it is being worked on so couldn’t actually see the building only the statues outside).

    Then one last stop - a patisserie with some vegan treats! A pumpkin chocolate tart and a passion fruit raspberry tart. We tried the pumpkin one and it had cranberry on it too so it was like a little bit of thanksgiving for us :) on the way there we walked through a park with a faucet down low and a sign that said “only Sonoran toads” which I have no idea what that means! I tried to do a quick search on the internet to see if it was some thing here, or some German phrase that I don’t know, but nothing. But a cute sign!

    Then we got Ethiopian food for dinner (a plate of all their vegan options) which was good, but not the best we have had.

    All in all today was a great day! I never really had Frankfurt on my to go to list as I didn’t think there was much here if you are not working, but I really enjoyed today! Really I was thinking I wish we had another day as there are lots of parks and other things to see a bit farther out (but still pretty close to where we are staying) that we didn’t have time for. It is actually a really nice city, though it does feel richer than other cities which makes sense. Like the people are and all the expensive stores and restaurants (there is one shopping road that is all high end places like gucci and stuff). Really enjoyed today and will definitely have to come back and explore more!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Frankfurt Day 2.3

    27. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After spying on all the fun buildings it was off to the pedestrian bridge across the river. We had dinner right by there last night, but didn’t go across so today we did! Really nice views of the city and such a gorgeous day! It was cold with the wind obviously, but I bundled back up in preparation and was nice and toasty.

    On the other side of the bridge is the Sachsenhausen area, which my guide was kind of disparaging about as it is all bars now, but was like it’s still worth a wander (and yes the Main Street is just bar after bar). It was fine, but not as nice as the other parts of the city are wandered, though on the ground there were apple stones I think because there is an apple wine that was originally made there.

    Then it was off across the Alte Brucke (old bridge) which was also really nice. Might have liked the views better from that bridge, but it was also a car bridge so can’t just go back and forth to either side (though I did when it was clear!). Then on to the old Jewish cemetery and memorial. The outside wall had the names of people killed in the Holocaust. Most of it was also destroyed by the nazis with only some headstones remaining that were lining the edges. The Jewish museum is right there too in a wavy building.    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Frankfurt Day 2.2

    27. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Our tour continued to Romerberg Square where probably the main Christmas market was. It was really busy last night so we didn’t explore that much, but much less crowded this afternoon so we could see all the things. The Rathaus is on the one side of the square and half timbered houses on the other with a church on the far side. It is a very nice area of town!

    Then on to the new old town - an area that was destroyed in WWII, but was rebuilt trying to use original materials and make it look like it did, but also new. It was interesting because it does look old and new at the same time. Really pretty and not many people were wandering there. There is also an old archeological ruin of a church in the area and then the cathedral (which apparently isn’t really a cathedral, but everyone calls it that). It is where Holy Roman Empire coronations took place! 10 Kings were crowded there! If not for that walking tour blog I would never have known as it didn’t say anything about that inside. It wasn’t the most ornate inside, but still enjoyed having a peek.

    Then we went down one of the most interesting streets I never would have turned down without the tour - Saalgasse. So these houses are also destroyed in the war, but in the 80’s when they were rebuilding they hired a bunch of postmodern architects to build the buildings so each of them is very different and fun. It was really fun walking down the street and looking at all the fun buildings! It was a tiny street between two we had walked down yesterday and close to the water so I probably would have walked right by it without noticing it had it not been pointed out. This was probably my favorite stop of the day as I loved all the interesting architecture!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Frankfurt Day 2.1

    27. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Phew! I have all the photos today! I wasn’t expecting that as I didn’t have that much to do here in Frankfurt, but then I searched for a self guided walking tour this morning and found a great blog that had one (here if anyone wants bit more info about things: https://jetsettingfools.com/free-walking-tour-f… ). It was the best one I have ever found for a place we have visited. It had so many places we never would have known about and a little text about the place, then walking direction to the next stop! So helpful! It was perfect even if we did it a bit out of order at times and veered off the path to see other things. We ended up walking all day!

    We woke up this morning to gorgeous sunny skies! It was still cold (it said it was 2 when we walked up to the grocery store), but it didn’t feel as cold as it has been. I even had to take off my fuzzy pink coat for most of the day as it was way too hot with it on! Crazy!

    Our first stop was Eschenheimer Tower, an old wall tower that is the oldest original building in the city! It is now a restaurant (most things are now restaurants or cafes we discovered today). Then it was a wander towards Hauptwache Square where there is a Christmas market that we wandered through last night. One of the small old buildings, the Hauptwache building, used to house police and military, but is now a cafe.

    Then we went into the big department store on the square where they have a cafe on the seventh floor with an outside patio with views of the city! And free! So that was fun. It was a gorgeous day and I loved seeing everything from a bit higher.

    Then we wandered towards the Kleinmarkthalle (small market) which was really nice inside. Lots of good stands with foods and flowers and all the things! It was around noon when we got there and a lot of people were eating lunch outside that they bought inside. If not for the Christmas markets we might have too! We did find a bakery in there that had a ton of vegan cakes so of course we got some - a pistachio cheesecake and a peanut butter brownie. We tried the cheesecake and it was pretty good, almost too cheesecake like for me (I am not a fan of cream cheese or yogurt or anything tangy dairy, but I liked the raspberry one we got the other day and I love pistachio so thought why not?). Really nice market and again I wish we had something like this near me in Berlin!

    Since it was lunchtime when we were done there we headed over to the one Christmas market that had a vegan soup stand for lunch. I got the red lentil curry soup and Raymond got the chili. Both were very good! I make a lentil curry soup and there’s was very similar which is what I wanted so I was happy. Then we headed to the kartoffelpuffer (potato pancake) place and got some of them with vegan krautersauce such was really good! Normally if I can eat them I can only get applesauce with them so I had wanted to try them with the other sauce and I’m glad we did. Though they are huge and there is no way I could eat one serving all by myself! When we were wandering yesterday as we were passing one of the kartoffelpuffer stands a lady was telling her friend “they are somehow cooked in oil?” With a very confused sound to her voice and I was like had she never heard of frying things?? So we were joking about that while we were there.

    Then on to Paulskirche where there was another Christmas market (the round brick building). This is where the first freely elected parliament in Germany met and where the first constitution was written! It is now a museum (by this point in the day I was expecting another restaurant!). There was a really cool old buildings and bridges across the road at the one end of the square there. I know I posted that yesterday in the dark, but we spied a bit closer today.    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Frankfurt Day 1

    26. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We arrived in Frankfurt this afternoon and by the time we unpacked and everything it was almost sunset - perfect timing to explore the Christmas markets! We are staying not too far from the closest one which is really nice. We wandered through then all and made note of treats and foods for tomorrow! We had our sandwiches packed from lunch so we ate those by the water and it was really nice. Getting cold as it was dark, but it was a fun wander! Tomorrow we will explore the city more and see what we see!Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Wiesbaden

    26. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today we woke up to another grey day, but we headed north to our next stop, Wiesbaden, and found some sun! We wandered through town and the Christmas markets and it was pretty nice. We got some green pea soup and a bread with veggies and a bread on a stick for lunch which was all pretty good! The soup place had a couple Vegan soups which was nice and it was cold so it was perfect! Really there were a bunch of Vegan options which was really nice! We got to pick and choose what we wanted.

    We also found a farmers market and a bakery stand with vegan treats there - we got a plum thing and a vegan domino (gingerbread, jelly and marzipan covered in chocolate).

    Then we walked out to the events center where they had a nice park and inside was a Christmas tree made from over 2,000 red poinsettias! The building was really cool and beautiful inside so that was nice. Then back through town and found another bakery with a little raspberry mousse cake which was really good! Then on to our final stop for the day - Frankfurt!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Heidelberg Day 3

    25. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Today was a really great day! It was overcast again with lots of spooky clouds, but not too cold and perfect for hiking up in the hills! We headed out and found some silly Egyptian Geese making weird noises in top of the signpost. Then on to a sourdough bakery for some treats - cardamom roll, cinnamon roll, and a chocolate franzbrötchen. We had one before we started our walk and it was delicious!

    Then on to the Philosophenweg walk. It is on the other side of the river and has great views of the town! It was a bit of a steeper hike up at first and I had way too many layers for uphill walking and had to readjust so I didn’t overheat! One of the stops is a garden that was actually still pretty nice! Then we wandered off the way a bit to go up to another viewpoint and once we got there we were like well we are almost to the top of the hill so we might as well go to the top! The hike up to the first viewpoint was super steep…we probably should have followed the road around instead, but we made it. Then it was a nice easy uphill road or old roads which was nice.

    On top were the ruins of an old monastery that was built in 1094! It was disbanded in the 16th century and it fell into disarray. In 1886 they built the lookout tower from the stones of the ruins.

    The top was just high enough that it had some spooky clouds in it so the views were not amazing because of the clouds. It was significantly colder as well so we went back down a bit to eat lunch where it was warmer.

    We eventually made our way back down to where we diverged from the original trail and followed that along until a steep decent to the bridge. There was a really nice viewpoint right before the decent and we had a nice break enjoying the views. Then the last bit of the way down Raymond was Iike this is like the Etruscan roads only with bricks! Which it kind of was. So that was fun.

    Then we wandered across the bridge and down different roads through town and found way too many treats! We got a raspberry cheesecake (I didn’t think I would like this but thought we should try it as it was from the main bakery here and it was actually pretty good!) and a peanut butter and jelly pie from the bakery, some dango from a Japanese place (the balls - they are glutinous rice balls kind of like mochi), and a cookie and something like marzipan but not from a whole wheat bakery (we tried the cookie and it was sooooo dry. I said no thanks to that).

    It was so nice wandering around the woods and seeing all the things. Today was my favorite day here in Heidelberg and we spent most of it looking out over at the city or in the trees. I thought next year I should plan it more like this. One day travel day, one day to explore wherever we go, then one day to hike around in the same area. From here on out we are spending 2 nights at each place so lots of moving around, but it should be fun!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Heidelberg Day 2

    24. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today we woke up to much warmer weather! Still cold, but the high was 6 (much warmer!) and I did not need all my layers even in the slight wind. I ran some errands this morning and then after we ate lunch we wandered to spy on the Christmas markets and…they were not great. They all had the same few booths with one or two different ones which was disappointing. We thought maybe they would have a treat, but there was only one booth with anything vegan and that was just a bratwurst so not that exciting. Afterwards Raymond headed back to our place to finish working and I spied on all the cute stores!

    There was a yarn shop that had so many really nice vegan yarns that I need to go back and make note of as they were so soft! I don’t have any projects for them at the moment, but if I have the brands when I do have something to make I can get some of them! The ladies in the shop were not the best, they left me alone which is fine, but I am used to them chatting away with you at other yarn shops. Plus a lady came in and said how someone she knows knits and crochets and are there any good yarns from Germany she could bring her back to the states and the lady working there instantly was like “No!” And not very nicely. The shopper was a bit taken aback which I would be too, but like if I knew more about yarns I might have tried to help her…but also maybe not buy from that shop? I’m sure there are brands and stuff that are easier to get over here. I know I’ve seen people in my cover group talking about brands we have here in Europe so I’m sure she could have be a find something fun! Oh well, maybe at another shop.

    I did spy on the water again and there are spooky clouds which was fun. I did find lots of cute things, but didn’t get anything except new Christmas sweaters for us! I did find a place that had Vegan käsespätzle which I never see so I was going to get that for dinner…only they close at 3 and are not open tomorrow. So sad for me. Then I thought I will get these filled tofu pockets we saw yesterday and have them with some roasted veggies tonight…but that place was closed today and tomorrow for a deep cleaning! So we just had roasted veggies and veggie meat which was delicious, but not käsespätzle!

    After dinner we went out for a walk by the water and through the Christmas markets to see if they were more magical at night…and they weren’t. There was just a lot more people walking around than there were this afternoon. Raymond said we have been to too many Christmas markets and are Christmas market snobs, but I said I have always been like this. A couple we went to the first year in Berlin I was like what is this?!? Is this what they are like cause this is just cheap junk…so if it is nice it’s nice, if it’s not it’s not. It’s not bad here really, but I wouldn’t come back for the markets and I wouldn’t even stop if it was on the way somewhere again unless I really had no where else to go. It was nice that it wasn’t as cold today, even this evening was still fine to wander. Tomorrow we are going to walk a trail on the other side of the river and then see what else we get up to. Should be fun!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Heidelberg Day 1

    23. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    After Karlsruhe we headed on to Heidelberg where we are spending the next few days. Raymond has to work tomorrow (using up the rest of his vacation for the year was only enough for the weeks minus a day, but it didn’t make sense to drive all the way home by this evening then head out again tomorrow evening so he will just work from here), and like Karlsruhe the Christmas market starts tomorrow.

    After we got unpacked we headed out for a short wander before it got too cold and it was pretty nice. There is a main pedestrian road right through town that we walked down and spied on all the things. I had planned on making dinners while we were here, but we found some delicious sounding restaurants so we shall see…but it was pretty nice. There is a river right through town, but it was very windy on water so we didn’t spend a ton of time there as it was really cold.

    A few days ago I had been telling Raymond about a Hallmark movie that took place here at the Christmas market and then totally forgot about it once we were here. When we were walking back to our place he asked if it was just like the movie and I was like not really…it is not what I remembered! The lady starts by walking up a steep hill to find the place she is staying and we were just on the pretty flat ground so it must have been either across the river or in the hill with the castle…but I couldn’t really remember what the market looked like, so I was like well we are just going to have to rewatch it to see all the filming locations! And the last two photos with the Christmas markets (where you can see the castle on the hill) are where they filmed them and also on the bridge and they took a walk on a walking trail on the other side of the river that I have on our to do list if we have time! So that was fun seeing the places we just walked through!

    So it was a nice wander and I will go explore more and run some errands tomorrow until Raymond is done with work. It said it might snow tonight, but then tomorrow is supposed to be slightly warmer so hopefully we don’t freeze as much!    Lue lisää

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  • Jen RitcheyChristmas Market Trip 2025!Matkaaja

    Karlsruhe

    23. marraskuuta, Saksa ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Today we got up to another cold day (colder than yesterday!) and headed out for more adventures. First stop was Karlsruhe. It is about a 45 min drive from where we are staying tonight and I had originally planned on going there on Tues since the Christmas markets doesn’t open until tomorrow, but since it was on the way to where we are staying we decided to just stop and check it out along the way (and then if it is super nice and we decided we want to we can come back on Tues). Well…I was glad we just stopped today and didn’t make a special trip for it! It was fine, but besides the palace there wasn’t much special about it. It wasn’t super interesting to wander and find things…it was just okay. While we were driving Raymond looked up info about the town and found that by the palace there is the Blauer Strahl - the worlds largest ceramic artwork - 1,625 blue ceramic tiles that link the palace to the oldest and only ceramic manufacturing factory still in production in Germany. For some reason I was expecting something more than just a line on the ground…so when we got there I was like oh…this is it?? Really this was the feeling I thought I would have in Schweinfurt but lucky that was a fun stop!

    So then we walked around the grounds towards town and came across a helicopter taking off! We weren’t that close to it, but once it got up in the sky the wind was so strong on us!! I’ve never been that close to one! Excuse the mitten in the video…it was so windy I was afraid my phone would blow over so I was holding on!

    We ate lunch in the middle of town and then wandered to all the things to see I had marked and like I said it was fine, but not amazing. We did find a bakery with vegan cookies and brownie so we tried one and.. they were fine, but not great. Raymond was like just like Karlsruhe which yes! And made me laugh. When planning I was debating if we should stay in Karlsruhe or Heidelberg and I am so glad I chose Heidelberg! After our quick wander we headed on to our overnight stop. It was still pretty cold today, right about our below freezing, but I added yet another layer and then I was nice and toasty! And the sun came out with was really nice    Lue lisää

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