Camino Francés 2022

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Camino Francés 2022 Путешественник
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День 3
понедельник, 25 июля 2022 г., 09:30
⛅ 16 °C
Высота: 771 м
Испания Viscarret-Guerendiáin 42.9633, -1.39676742°57’48” N 1°23’48” W
After Espinal
25 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
The morning was nice and cool. It looked like it might rain, but it didn't. The walk went through some nice forests.

At some point I caught up with Emmanuelle and Sebastien, and I got a chance to practise my French. Seb was walking faster, but Emma and I were going at the same pace, so I had a long chat with her, mostly in French.Читать далее
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День 3
понедельник, 25 июля 2022 г., 12:30
⛅ 21 °C
Высота: 794 м
Испания Puerto de Erro 42.944285, -1.47028742°56’39” N 1°28’13” W
Who needs Tinder 🤣
25 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Enlarge the photo and read for yourself!
This was at the food stall at Alto del Erro.

I asked the stall attendant what they do with all that underwear, but she was an employee and said she had no idea.Читать далее
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День 3
понедельник, 25 июля 2022 г., 13:00
⛅ 23 °C
Высота: 604 м
Испания Zubiri 42.931266, -1.49559742°55’53” N 1°29’44” W
Walking with Emma
25 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Emmanuelle and I kept walking together to Zubiri.
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Good pics of this difficult section. It's a nightmare in the rain/wet. Seems it was no problem for you both
26.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникWe just took it slow, and were lucky it was dry.
26.07.2022Ответить
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День 3
понедельник, 25 июля 2022 г., 13:30
⛅ 24 °C
Высота: 532 м
Испания Zubiri 42.930583, -1.50432242°55’50” N 1°30’16” W
Zubiri
25 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
I had lunch in Zubiri with my French friends. They were staying there for the night, and I kept going to the next town, Larrasoaña.
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День 3
понедельник, 25 июля 2022 г., 14:55
☀️ 25 °C
Высота: 515 м
Испания Urdániz 42.910482, -1.52980242°54’38” N 1°31’47” W
Mystery of the Abbey
25 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
On the way to Larrasoaña I passed by this old abbey. There was a sign on the road inviting pilgrims to go in and get a 'very nice stamp' (we collect stamps every day to get a compostela when we get to Santiago).

When I arrived, the abbey was closed and there was no one around. Then another walker arrived, as I was starting to leave. Then a man came from a house next to the abbey and waved at us. He spoke very little Spanish - he was British. He told us the whole story of how he ended up there, doing some archeological work to solve the mystery of the origins of the abbey. There are no records of when it was built. Official records say in the 1600s, which is when the 2 villages next to it were also built. But they found things inside which indicate it was already there in the 1300s, but they still can't explain how or why.
It has elements of Judaism, Catholicism and Paganism. He showed us some of those intriguing features and it was fascinating to hear.
His name is Neil, and hopes to find someone to continue the investigation because he doesn't think he will see the end of it. He's fighting cancer without chemo.

We spent like half an hour there, then another group of walkers arrived and we (the other lone walker and I) moved on. He was a young guy from Romania and we walked together the rest of the way to Larrasoaña.Читать далее
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День 4
вторник, 26 июля 2022 г.
⛅ 23 °C
Высота: 455 м
Испания Uterga 42.831667, -1.5942°49’54” N 1°35’24” W
Thank you feet, legs, and Garmin 🙏
26 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
This was the longest day walk of my whole life. I didn't expect to walk over 36k in a day at any stage, and especially not so early in the Camino.

Most people leaving Larrasoaña today, as well as those I left at Zubiri yesterday, were going to stay at Pamplona tonight. I already spent a night in Pamplona last week and didn't want to do it again. Plus, Pamplona was under 20k away and I was up for walking some more. My intention was to go 5k further to Cizur Menor, and stay at albergue Maribel Roncal, which was highly recommended. But last night I found out that the albergue is closed 🤷🏻‍♀️

The next recommended albergue was at Uterga, another 12k farther, including a long climb to, and long descent from, Alto del Perdón.

I kept my options open until I got to Pamplona. I was there at lunchtime. Walking to Uterga was another 17k from there. The down side was that I'd have to do that long hill in the afternoon sun, and the plus side was that if I got that out of the way today, tomorrow would be a piece of cake. I had nothing else to do but walk for the rest of the day, so I called albergue Camino del Perdón (Uterga) and booked a bed + dinner.

With the peace of mind of bed and food secured, I went very slowly, taking little breaks when there was some shade, and drinking water regularly. My feet and legs felt tired, but didn't let me down. I already told them not to worry, that this was an extraordinary day and not a new normal.

Still with a few ks to go, my Garmin watch gave me a low battery warning. I am very grateful that it lasted till the end. It was a record hike for me and I HAD to have it on Strava!Читать далее
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Amazing. What a challenge but we’ll thought through and planned. What were some of the highlights along the way? [Jill]
26.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникIn the morning I was planning to have breakfast at Zuriain. I was warned that the cafe there was the only option, as there would be nothing else for the next 3 hours (Pamplona, I assumed).. When I got to Zuriain, I found that the cafe was closed, and I was a bit hungry. There were 2 Korean girls and an American guy I had met before taking a break just past the cafe and I joined them. I said I would have to eat my last reserves for the above reasons. And Teddy, apprpriately wearing a Superman T shirt, gave me a small croissant and some bikkies.
27.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникI told them of a 'false' way marker coming up, which I learnt from Neil the day before. Then I met Jane, from Ireland, and we walked part of the way together. She followed me when we got to the false marker and was glad she did. The next surprise was passing through Huarte before Pamplona, where we could stock up at a supermarket.
27.07.2022Ответить
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День 5
среда, 27 июля 2022 г., 08:45
☀️ 15 °C
Высота: 410 м
Испания Obanos 42.680818, -1.78510242°40’51” N 1°47’6” W
A good day
27 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Last night I was so exhausted, I didn't know how my feet and legs would be today. But I had a good sleep and recovered well.

I stayed at albergue Camino del Perdón and we were only 5 guests there, among them a father-daughter pair from Germany with whom I happened to share a room at Larrasoaña too. The 5 of us were in a room with capacity for 18, so we were well spread out.

Today's walk had some ups and downs but nothing major. I walked slow, because I had some intermittent foot aches, and I used the poles all the way because they help distribute the weight, taking some of it off my feet. I also took several breaks, and I got to Villatuerta feeling much better than I felt at the end of yesterday's walk.

The photos are of Obanos, one of the villages I passed through in the morning.

Early today I reached a milestone: I broke the first 100k.Читать далее
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Congratulations on reaching your century! Well done, with some nice footwork 👍 [Graham]
28.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникThank you!
28.07.2022Ответить
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День 5
среда, 27 июля 2022 г., 10:30
☀️ 19 °C
Высота: 361 м
Испания Puente La Reina – Gares 42.671711, -1.81552942°40’18” N 1°48’56” W
Suelta de vacas
27 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
I would never pay to see animals being exploited and harmed, and would not buy related merchandise, because that's what keeps the practice alive.

When I got to Puente La Reina today, the main street was closed for the festivities of Santiago, which are on for the whole week. They let some 'vacas bravas' loose, and people were having 'fun' teasing them and then running away. The cows are smaller and not as strong as bulls, but I wouldn't get too close nevertheless.

I can't say that I enjoyed the show, but I watched it as a cultural experience and the videos are here for anyone curious.Читать далее
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ПутешественникWhat happened to the bulls afterwards? Was there a bull fight?
27.07.2022Ответить
Путешественникi have no idea 🤷🏻‍♀️
28.07.2022Ответить
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День 5
среда, 27 июля 2022 г., 11:00
☀️ 20 °C
Высота: 430 м
Испания Estella-Lizarra 42.6713, -2.037642°40’17” N 2°2’15” W
Puente La Reina
27 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
This was the biggest town I passed through today.
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ПутешественникWas it siesta time?
27.07.2022Ответить
Путешественникit was fiesta time! Everybody was at the centre of town, watching the cows. I watched for a few minutes, then moved on.
28.07.2022Ответить
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День 5
среда, 27 июля 2022 г., 21:47
🌙 19 °C
Высота: 430 м
Испания Estella-Lizarra 42.6713, -2.037642°40’17” N 2°2’15” W
Adjusting
27 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
This is day 5 of my walk and I got into a good routine. Packing and unpacking every day is almost automatic, and I got much better at keeping my stuff organised, with easy access to what I need, when I need it.

I still need to adjust some of my expectations though. I came with the idea that I would support the small villages by buying my daily food from local cafes, expecting tasty local dishes made by a local person at the back of the shop.

But the reality is, some villages don't even have a cafe. Some have vending machines. And some have bars were the food is very unappealing, like the pizza I had today for lack of other options. It wasn't even fresh, it was frozen. Bigger towns and cities provide more choice.

Tomorrow I am carrying snacks for the day and hope to find an albergue with a dinner option. Those I had so far have been the best meals, all home made.Читать далее
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Looks like you're having a ball Laura. Keep up the kilometres!! Michael P [Michael P]
27.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникThank you! Yes, I'm loving the experience, now I have to get smarter with food finding.
28.07.2022Ответить
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 08:00
⛅ 13 °C
Высота: 454 м
Испания Los Arcos 42.57094, -2.19289142°34’15” N 2°11’34” W
1
Villatuerta
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
I spent last night at albergue Etxeurdina, in Villatuerta. I ended up there by mistake, but turned out to be great.

This is a small village and not many walkers stop here. Most would continue to Estella, a larger town 6k up. I meant to book 'Albergue Villatuerta', a.k.a. 'Casa Magica'. When I Googled 'Albergue Villatuerta' I clicked on the top result and booked without paying too much attention. Then I realised it wasn't the one I had recommendations for. Oops!

I went back to Google to compare, as I could still change the booking. But I found out that Casa Magica is closed, and Etxeurdina is a very new albergue, only opened last year, that's why it's not well known. The reviews on the website were about as good as those I had read for Casa Magica, so I kept the booking with the confidence that it was a good choice.

And it was! For starters, I almost had the whole place to myself, except that a pilgrim without booking turned up at the last minute. But hey, sharing with one only is a great deal. The place was nice and quiet, and I slept very well.

Jordi, the host, was super friendly and helpful. He suggested an alternative route for today's walk, which was in fact the original Way, but these days few people know about. He reckons this way is more enjoyable, all through nature with good shade until a village halfway to my destination, and passing by the ruins of Zaraputz.

If anyone reading this ever walks the Camino, take note, I highly recommend this place.Читать далее
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Путешественник 💜
28.07.2022Ответить
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 12:55
⛅ 24 °C
Высота: 605 м
Испания Luquín 42.611667, -2.09833342°36’42” N 2°5’54” W
Halfway point oasis
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
The village of Lúquin was such a perfect stop. The last part of the walk leading there was in the sun. I was getting hungry and it was time for a break.

I sat in the shade at the plaza, and ate my leftover pizza from yesterday. Next, I needed a toilet. I asked a group of local ladies, who sent me to the municipal pool, nearby.

There was a bar with tables outside in the shade, overlooking the pool. I sat there for a while, enjoying a Calippo.

There was a group of English speaking people at another table. Turns out 2 of them were Aussies, and they were all volunteers at a parochial albergue in a village I bypassed.

I felt very refreshed when I left this place, but the rest of the way to Los Arcos was hot, with virtually no shade.Читать далее
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The meseta from Burgos has little shade. Will you be starting earlier to avoid the worst of the heat?
29.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникI think so. I will check the forecast, but I know that it will be best to start as early as possible.
29.07.2022Ответить
Love the pics as they show the bits I've missed. They'll be a good reminder for you.
29.07.2022Ответить
Путешественникthank you 🙂
29.07.2022Ответить
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 17:41
⛅ 29 °C
Высота: 454 м
Испания Los Arcos 42.57, -2.19166742°34’12” N 2°11’30” W
Los Arcos
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
This town is still in Navarre, but looks very different to the others I visited so far. Very modest, a bit run down, but with a very impressive church.
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 18:25
⛅ 28 °C
Высота: 451 м
Испания Los Arcos 42.571667, -2.19333342°34’18” N 2°11’36” W
5 cents
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
I went for a walk around to get some food. I bought a snack (nuts with cranberries) and dinner (cooked lentils with vegetables) from a small supermarket, and then went to the bakery to get something for tomorrow's breakfast.

They were artisan bakers, the kind I was hoping to find everywhere (see my 'Adjusting' footprint), and I bought a few yummy things.

I paid cash, trying to offload as many as possible of the coins I was carrying (they're heavy!), and it seemed like I was short by 5 cents. Angela, the shop owner, said not to worry. But I kept reaching into my bumbag and found another 10 cents, which I handed in. I didn't want the change, but Angela insisted that I must take it, because... the 5 cent coin has the image of the Santiago Cathedral! She even chose a shiny one for me. It was a very sweet gesture that I couldn't refuse, and the 5 cent coin is the lightest of all, I think. 🙂Читать далее
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 19:00
⛅ 27 °C
Высота: 460 м
Испания Los Arcos 42.571087, -2.1923342°34’16” N 2°11’32” W
First half of the walk
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
I took the route suggested by Jordi, and the shade made a big difference. Morning temperature was in the mid 20s, but it felt hot walking in the sun.
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День 6
четверг, 28 июля 2022 г., 19:30
⛅ 27 °C
Высота: 454 м
Испания Los Arcos 42.571121, -2.19292842°34’16” N 2°11’35” W
Interesting albergue
28 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
The albergue I had a recommendation for was full, and Jordi suggested Casa de Austria. Here I am.

It doesn't have the modern facilities I have enjoyed so far, but it's charming in its own way. It's a huge house, and very old. It's full of quirky details and there's more of a community atmosphere. See the rollers to squeeze water out of hand-washed clothes! They offer a massage service, right in the main living area. Someone used it, and they put a curtain around the massage table.

This is the kind of place where the ratio of showers to guests is low, and I am so glad I have sandals.

Initially they were giving me a top bunk in an already crowded room. I asked if they had any bottom bunks left, and they led me to an empty room upstairs. I could choose any bed! Now, a few more people have arrived and it's about half full, but I have the best bed 😏Читать далее
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I have decided if I ever do the Camino, I’m taking you with me! I bet you are getting all the tips because you speak the local language [James S]
29.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникThe language definitely makes things easier. With your foundation in French, you'd pick it up in no time! Then again, if you ask me to come back I could be convinced 🤣
29.07.2022Ответить
My mother had one of those roller gizmos for washing our clothes when i was a kid! Cant believe somewhere in the world one is still being used. No Fisher and Paykel for dedicated pilgrims! [Graham]
30.07.2022Ответить
Путешественникunlike Fishel & Paykel, those things were made to last forever!
30.07.2022Ответить
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День 7
пятница, 29 июля 2022 г., 12:59
☀️ 25 °C
Высота: 453 м
Испания Ondarre 42.515, -2.37542°30’54” N 2°22’30” W
Viana
29 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
On my way to Logroño, I started the day walking with an older German couple. They started walking in Munich!!! That would be 2,700k to Santiago, and they have done over 2/3 of the way, in a bit over 3 months. They started with very heavy packs, as they had to be equipped for the snow. Then they shipped the winter gear home. Legends!
At one point they decided to stop for a coffee, but I kept going. I walked the rest of the way on my own, at a slow and steady pace.
I stopped here for a break and a snack at Viana. It was getting very hot, and just sitting in the shade for a while felt great.
Although I was walking on my own, I exchanged many 'buen caminos' with other walkers, and I could recognise some faces. Then, at rest stops, we can count on those familiar people to look after the backpack while one goes to the toilet, for example. We may not know each other's names, but we're all part of the same big thing and we look after each other.Читать далее
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День 7
пятница, 29 июля 2022 г., 14:28
☀️ 28 °C
Высота: 398 м
Испания Pantano de las Cañas 42.491667, -2.41542°29’30” N 2°24’54” W
Entering new commune
29 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
The sign marks the end of Navarra and the beginning of La Rioja.
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День 7
пятница, 29 июля 2022 г., 20:55
☀️ 24 °C
Высота: 415 м
Испания Plaza Darmstadt 42.465, -2.4542°27’54” N 2°27’0” W
Tapas paradise
29 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Logroño is known as the gastronomical capital of Spain, so I went to check it out with my new friends Jane (from Ireland) and Lubo (Bulgarian living in Spain).
The photos were taken around 9pm, when the Calle Laurel starts buzzing. Note how clear the sky still is at that time!Читать далее
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День 7
пятница, 29 июля 2022 г., 22:43
⛅ 19 °C
Высота: 404 м
Испания Parque del Espolón 42.46612, -2.43966842°27’58” N 2°26’23” W
No time for update today
29 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
I didn't have time to post today, but made it to Logroño and was out until late. Early rise tomorrow.
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День 8
суббота, 30 июля 2022 г., 05:45
🌙 14 °C
Высота: 398 м
Испания Iglesia de Santa María de Palacio 42.468333, -2.44333342°28’6” N 2°26’36” W
These aren't night photos
30 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
Believe it or not, these were taken in the morning. I woke up at 5 and started walking at 5.45, to avoid some of the afternoon heat.
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It's all about perspective, Laura! Five (or 5.45) is definitely still night time in my book... [Brenda]
03.08.2022Ответить
ПутешественникIn my real life too, Brenda! For sure 😄
03.08.2022Ответить
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День 8
суббота, 30 июля 2022 г., 07:11
⛅ 14 °C
Высота: 451 м
Испания Pantano de la Grajera 42.448333, -2.5142°26’54” N 2°30’36” W
Sunrise outside Logroño
30 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
I think I will see a few more sunrises, as afternoons are getting over 30°C.
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Camino Francés 2022 Путешественник
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День 8
суббота, 30 июля 2022 г., 13:13
☀️ 25 °C
Высота: 510 м
Испания San Pedro Apostol 42.43, -2.69666742°25’48” N 2°41’48” W
1 week today
30 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
The first week of the walk went quickly, and I made more distance than expected. I end each walk very tired, and with sore legs, but I recover quite well overnigh.
As I said the other day, I keep adjusting. Lately it's been about food expectations. At home I was keeping a plant-based diet, and I knew it was going to be hard, if not impossible, to keep it here. I was prepared to accept any vegetarian food. But even that is difficult. I have had amazing vego food at some albergues, but often if I go to a restaurant, all they can offer is salad, without any protein. I am therefore expanding into fish and seafood... and some of the tapas I had last night contained other meat too. I can eat anything if I want to, but I feel for people who have serious dietary limitations.
I'm also getting better at wearing my backpack. I was getting very sore in the main points of contact: hips and shoulders. I'm now wearing it higher, and hips are better. I am also wearing a pair of socks as shoulder pads, and it's helping too.
I'm wearing woollen socks and not getting any blisters at all.
Tomorrow I will be reaching 200k. If I can keep this rate, I will finish within 5 weeks, but I have up to 6. Depending how I feel when I finish, I can keep walking a few more days - but if not, I'm sure I will find something else to do 😄Читать далее
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Camino Francés 2022 Путешественник
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День 8
суббота, 30 июля 2022 г., 19:36
☀️ 22 °C
Высота: 494 м
Испания Arroyo de Pozuelo 42.41768, -2.73343142°25’4” N 2°44’0” W
Nájera
30 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
I'm spending the night at albergue Puerta de Nájera. It's very pretty inside, looks like a hotel, if not for the dorm style rooms. I have a small room with only one set of bunks, I was very lucky. It gives me some privacy. I have to walk through 2 other rooms to get to mine, but no one walks into mine.
I'm going to bed early tonight. Last night I didn't get enough sleep and was feeling sleepy during the walk.Читать далее
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Camino Francés 2022 Путешественник
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День 9
воскресенье, 31 июля 2022 г., 09:51
⛅ 18 °C
Высота: 545 м
Испания Castañares de Rioja 42.51, -2.92333342°30’36” N 2°55’24” W
Easiest day so far
31 июля 2022 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Today I walked from Nájera to Grañón. Just over 30k per my GPS, but it was mostly flat and, importantly, there was no sun until the last 7k.

I started before 5.30 am and was already at Azofra at sunrise. There's no spectacular sunrise photo because it was very cloudy, which was great for walking. The light breeze made it perfect, and it was all the way like that until Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the sun finally came out.

The landscape looked like in the photo, more or less, throughout the day.Читать далее
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ПутешественникI have to say it - how much the landscape resembles central west nsw
31.07.2022Ответить
ПутешественникAnd South Australia 😄
31.07.2022Ответить
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