Camino Francés 2022

July - September 2022
A 41-day adventure by Laura's Adventures Read more
  • 198footprints
  • 5countries
  • 41days
  • 682photos
  • 7videos
  • 19.6kkilometers
  • 18.0kkilometers
  • Day 4

    Thank you feet, legs, and Garmin 🙏

    July 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This was the longest day walk of my whole life. I didn't expect to walk over 36k in a day at any stage, and especially not so early in the Camino.

    Most people leaving Larrasoaña today, as well as those I left at Zubiri yesterday, were going to stay at Pamplona tonight. I already spent a night in Pamplona last week and didn't want to do it again. Plus, Pamplona was under 20k away and I was up for walking some more. My intention was to go 5k further to Cizur Menor, and stay at albergue Maribel Roncal, which was highly recommended. But last night I found out that the albergue is closed 🤷🏻‍♀️

    The next recommended albergue was at Uterga, another 12k farther, including a long climb to, and long descent from, Alto del Perdón.

    I kept my options open until I got to Pamplona. I was there at lunchtime. Walking to Uterga was another 17k from there. The down side was that I'd have to do that long hill in the afternoon sun, and the plus side was that if I got that out of the way today, tomorrow would be a piece of cake. I had nothing else to do but walk for the rest of the day, so I called albergue Camino del Perdón (Uterga) and booked a bed + dinner.

    With the peace of mind of bed and food secured, I went very slowly, taking little breaks when there was some shade, and drinking water regularly. My feet and legs felt tired, but didn't let me down. I already told them not to worry, that this was an extraordinary day and not a new normal.

    Still with a few ks to go, my Garmin watch gave me a low battery warning. I am very grateful that it lasted till the end. It was a record hike for me and I HAD to have it on Strava!
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  • Day 5

    A good day

    July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Last night I was so exhausted, I didn't know how my feet and legs would be today. But I had a good sleep and recovered well.

    I stayed at albergue Camino del Perdón and we were only 5 guests there, among them a father-daughter pair from Germany with whom I happened to share a room at Larrasoaña too. The 5 of us were in a room with capacity for 18, so we were well spread out.

    Today's walk had some ups and downs but nothing major. I walked slow, because I had some intermittent foot aches, and I used the poles all the way because they help distribute the weight, taking some of it off my feet. I also took several breaks, and I got to Villatuerta feeling much better than I felt at the end of yesterday's walk.

    The photos are of Obanos, one of the villages I passed through in the morning.

    Early today I reached a milestone: I broke the first 100k.
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  • Day 5

    Suelta de vacas

    July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I would never pay to see animals being exploited and harmed, and would not buy related merchandise, because that's what keeps the practice alive.

    When I got to Puente La Reina today, the main street was closed for the festivities of Santiago, which are on for the whole week. They let some 'vacas bravas' loose, and people were having 'fun' teasing them and then running away. The cows are smaller and not as strong as bulls, but I wouldn't get too close nevertheless.

    I can't say that I enjoyed the show, but I watched it as a cultural experience and the videos are here for anyone curious.
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  • Day 5

    Puente La Reina

    July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This was the biggest town I passed through today.

  • Day 5

    Adjusting

    July 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    This is day 5 of my walk and I got into a good routine. Packing and unpacking every day is almost automatic, and I got much better at keeping my stuff organised, with easy access to what I need, when I need it.

    I still need to adjust some of my expectations though. I came with the idea that I would support the small villages by buying my daily food from local cafes, expecting tasty local dishes made by a local person at the back of the shop.

    But the reality is, some villages don't even have a cafe. Some have vending machines. And some have bars were the food is very unappealing, like the pizza I had today for lack of other options. It wasn't even fresh, it was frozen. Bigger towns and cities provide more choice.

    Tomorrow I am carrying snacks for the day and hope to find an albergue with a dinner option. Those I had so far have been the best meals, all home made.
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  • Day 6

    Villatuerta

    July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I spent last night at albergue Etxeurdina, in Villatuerta. I ended up there by mistake, but turned out to be great.

    This is a small village and not many walkers stop here. Most would continue to Estella, a larger town 6k up. I meant to book 'Albergue Villatuerta', a.k.a. 'Casa Magica'. When I Googled 'Albergue Villatuerta' I clicked on the top result and booked without paying too much attention. Then I realised it wasn't the one I had recommendations for. Oops!

    I went back to Google to compare, as I could still change the booking. But I found out that Casa Magica is closed, and Etxeurdina is a very new albergue, only opened last year, that's why it's not well known. The reviews on the website were about as good as those I had read for Casa Magica, so I kept the booking with the confidence that it was a good choice.

    And it was! For starters, I almost had the whole place to myself, except that a pilgrim without booking turned up at the last minute. But hey, sharing with one only is a great deal. The place was nice and quiet, and I slept very well.

    Jordi, the host, was super friendly and helpful. He suggested an alternative route for today's walk, which was in fact the original Way, but these days few people know about. He reckons this way is more enjoyable, all through nature with good shade until a village halfway to my destination, and passing by the ruins of Zaraputz.

    If anyone reading this ever walks the Camino, take note, I highly recommend this place.
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  • Day 6

    Halfway point oasis

    July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The village of Lúquin was such a perfect stop. The last part of the walk leading there was in the sun. I was getting hungry and it was time for a break.

    I sat in the shade at the plaza, and ate my leftover pizza from yesterday. Next, I needed a toilet. I asked a group of local ladies, who sent me to the municipal pool, nearby.

    There was a bar with tables outside in the shade, overlooking the pool. I sat there for a while, enjoying a Calippo.

    There was a group of English speaking people at another table. Turns out 2 of them were Aussies, and they were all volunteers at a parochial albergue in a village I bypassed.

    I felt very refreshed when I left this place, but the rest of the way to Los Arcos was hot, with virtually no shade.
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  • Day 6

    5 cents

    July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I went for a walk around to get some food. I bought a snack (nuts with cranberries) and dinner (cooked lentils with vegetables) from a small supermarket, and then went to the bakery to get something for tomorrow's breakfast.

    They were artisan bakers, the kind I was hoping to find everywhere (see my 'Adjusting' footprint), and I bought a few yummy things.

    I paid cash, trying to offload as many as possible of the coins I was carrying (they're heavy!), and it seemed like I was short by 5 cents. Angela, the shop owner, said not to worry. But I kept reaching into my bumbag and found another 10 cents, which I handed in. I didn't want the change, but Angela insisted that I must take it, because... the 5 cent coin has the image of the Santiago Cathedral! She even chose a shiny one for me. It was a very sweet gesture that I couldn't refuse, and the 5 cent coin is the lightest of all, I think. 🙂
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