• Lee Adourian

Heading North on AT from GA/NC

A 31-day adventure by Lee Read more
  • Trip start
    May 2, 2023

    First Day Back on Trail

    May 2, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Dick’s Creek Gap (AT Mile Marker 69.2) to Muskrat Creek Shelter (#81.2)
    Daily Mileage: 12.0

    Flew back down to ATL yesterday and Uber’d back to Hiawassee, GA hotel where I had stopped back in early March. Shuttle driver Grace picked me up at 8am and dropped me off 6 miles down the road at Dick’s Creek Gap. Have things greened up a bit in the last 2 months!

    Beautiful day for a hike, sunny and brisk. Temps started out in upper 30’s, with a high of 55.
    Steady rise the whole day from 2,700 Ft elevation to 4,500 Ft by camp.
    Passed from GA into NC nine miles into the day (see pic).
    Met and hiked with Tim (@ 50 yrs old originally from Pelham, NY), Kate (@ 35 from Philly) & T-Bone (trail name from Seinfeld episode, @ 40 from Easton, MD) today.

    Around 20 hikers at the shelter/campground tonight. Mostly “kids” in their mid 20’s. Most between jobs or taking hiatuses from current ones. 8 hikers stayed in the actual shelter and had fun around the fire pit and smoked weed. The rest of us had dinner with the group but quickly retreated to the solace of our tents. A fun first day!
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  • Day 2 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Muskrat Creek Shelter (AT Mile 81.2) to Carter Gap Shelter (#93.5).
    Daily Mileage: 12.3

    Woke up to temps @ 35 degrees. Sunny & windy all day. A slow, steady climb of 6 miles up to the top of Standing Indian Mtn (5,400 Ft. Elev.). Beautiful views for miles. Saw and spoke with @ 20 trail volunteers on both sides of the peak. They are part of the local AT Council group.

    The trees have really started to leaf out and the wildflower growth is abundant. Saw 3 types of Trillium growing trailside (which excited me based on my love of Trillium Brewery in Boston).

    Gentle continued downhill for the rest of the afternoon to Carter Gap Shelter. Got there early (4:00) to get my pick of the tent spots. The next appropriate shelter area would’ve been another 5 miles, so opted to be safe vs sorry.
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  • Day 3 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 4, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Carter Gap Shelter (AT Mile Marker 93.5) to Rock Gap (#105.6) and shuttle to Franklin, NC and off day tomorrow.
    Daily Mileage: 12.1

    Woke up to frost this am and I did have super cold hands getting my bear bag down from the tree (even with 2 sets of gloves on). Slept well, though. All bundled up in my 30 degree sleeping quilt with multiple clothing layers on.

    Sunny again today with amazing views from the top of Albert Mountain (5,300 ft. Elev.) about 6 miles in. Met 2 day hikers at the top along with Jason from Los Angeles who is thru hiking. Jason and I hiked the 6 mile ambling downhill to the road at Rock Gap and took the town shuttle (only $5!), into Franklin, NC for our zero day tomorrow. Got to the Rodeway Inn (😏), took an wonderful hot shower, and then stuffed my face down the street at Sakura Japanese Restaurant. All is good.
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  • Day 4 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 5, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Zero day today in Franklin, NC. Staying at The Rodeway Inn last night and tonight. Back to the trail tomorrow at 8 am.

    Bobby The Greek picked me up today at 10 am and took me to Ingles Grocery store for a resupply. We then stopped by the ATM and then I picked up lunch and dinner at the Chick-Fil-A to take back to the room.

    Bobby dropped me off at @ 11:30 and I spent the rest of the afternoon doing laundry in the sink, updating Find Penguins travel journal & Facebook, and then ending the evening watching game 2 of Celtics vs Sixers. A nice relaxing day!
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  • Day 5 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 6, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Rock Gap road (mile marker 105.6) to Wayah Bald Shelter (#120.4)
    Daily Mileage: 14.8

    Bobby The Greek dropped me off at Rock Gap at 9am just as the drizzle was ending. Felt good and fresh after the off day.

    Started climbing right away up Winding Stair Gap and continuing up and over Siler Bald & then Wayah Bald. The weather broke for some decent views from Wayah.

    Hiked today with Justin & Katie (20-something couple who had been traveling IC nurses and are taking sabbaticals). Really nice duo. Ended up meeting Naked Man & Watermelon on top of Siler Bald and we all hiked together to end the day at Wayah shelter. Torrential thunderstorms that night but dry and cozy in the tent. Temps in the low 50’s.
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  • Day 6 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 7, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Wayah Bald Shelter (mile marker 120.4) to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (the “NOC”, #136.9).
    Daily Mileage: 16.5

    Last night’s thunderstorms ended in early am and we all awoke to a nice day and warming temps into the 70’s with cooling mountain breezes. Climbed the first half of the day up and over Wesser Bald, and then the long, somewhat treacherous downhill into the Nantahala Outdoor Center (the “NOC”).

    Hiked a lot today with “Chipmunk”. A 62 year old from the UP of Michigan that hikes in sandals and hasn’t worn shoes in real life since 1993. He was in the Navy and got his nickname as he was the smallest guy in his squadron. What an interesting guy. He and his wife are descendants of the Cree North American Indigenous people from Canada and they still speak the language fairly well. He has dreadlocks that hang below the waist (had it since he retired from the Navy and became a mariner in the UP of Mich in 2002). An uber chill dude and really nice.

    I will add a day into this journal as the NOC deserves its own entry, details & pics.
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  • Day at the “NOC”

    May 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Got to the Nantahala Outdoor Center and spent the afternoon, evening and overnight there. Most of our crew did the same as the weather was incredible, wading in the river was exhilarating, and the beer was COLD.

    The NOC is a commercial outdoor guide service that operates a retail store, outfitter, 2 restaurants, rents individual rooms and cabins, teaches whitewater rafting/paddling, etc. . It’s also where the American Olympic Whitewater Paddling team practices and is the home course for 22 world champions.

    12 of us (9 “young guns” as I call them, and 3 of us ambulatory athletic wannabes) had a late lunch, drank beer and purchased supplies at the outfitter. The Young Guns continued up the steep ascent out of the NOC that afternoon more than buzzed, while the 3 of us had dinner, stayed the night in shoebox-like rooms, and got an early start the next am after heavy overnight thunderstorms.
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  • Day 8 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    NOC (mile marker 136.9) to Sassafras Gap Shelter (#143.8).
    Daily Mileage: 6.9

    Only 7 miles today as it was straight uphill out of the NOC, we wanted to wait until 10am when the thunderstorms ended, and Sassafras Gap Shelter was where a lot of folks were headed based on having an on-site privy and close-by water source.

    I hiked a lot today (and had dinner with him last night) with a guy named Cassian from St.Louis (birth name Christopher). He has been a St. Benedictine Monk & Priest since graduating from Vanderbilt University in 2000. He took the name Cassian after St. Cassian, a Christian Monk and theologian noted for his role in bringing the ideas and practices of early Christian monasticism to the medieval West. An incredibly intelligent and thoughtful guy with many interesting stories of his upbringing, his position within the Parish, his ministering to young adults, and his current year-long sabbatical. His goal is to get to Boone, NC (mile mark @ 410), lose 75 pounds, and figure out his next role within the St. Benedictine system. Talking to him here and there on the trail each of the last 3 days has made the time speed by!
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  • Day 9 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 10, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Sassafras Gap Shelter (mile marker 143.8) to Cody Gap tenting area (156.0).
    Daily Mileage: 12.2

    Started at 8am to to get a start up to the top of Cheoah Bald (one mile in). Epic views from the top at 9am with Cassian, Zipperhead, Lee (61 yrs old) & his son Caleb (23) from Louisiana, and a few others who tented with us last night.

    The rest of the day was much harder than we thought it would be. Hot temps, no breeze, and a lot of “PUD’s” (pointless ups & downs). Stopped at Stecoah Gap 7.3 miles in for a 45 min rest/lunch/water gather and then climbed the STEEP Jacob’s Ladder which ascended almost 1,000 ft in half a mile. Trekked the rest of the afternoon and got to Cody Gap and pitched tents for the night w/ 12 others. Nice weather.
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  • Day 10 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Cody Gap tent area (mile marker 156.0) to Fontana Dam Resort & Village (#164.7).
    Daily Mileage: 8.7

    Great weather and a relative lollygag into Fontana Dam with a zero day on the horizon for tomorrow. Hiked with Cassian (I gave him the trail name “Cash Money” yesterday as he rocks the uphills each and every time), Lee & Caleb, and Zipperhead.

    Ok, so, Zipperhead. He’s about 50 yrs old and comes from Sturbridge, MA. Has 2 daughters. He got his trail name from the scar left by extensive brain surgery 7 years ago that left him bed-ridden for more than 2 years. After his recuperation, he successfully thru hiked the AT 3 years ago. He’s back for more and not sure how far he’ll go. A true inspiration. (He’s in one of the pics from a couple of days ago with Cassian).
    A bunch of us stopped halfway at Cable Gap Shelter for the Privy and lunch. Saw a black rat snake heading back to the shelter to get ready for a mouse dinner.

    Entered the Fontana Dam area at 3:15 and got a shuttle ride from the Marina up to to the lodge to check in. Had an awesome dinner, two cold Blue Ridge Hazy IPA’s, and from the patio was able to check out the Camaro Club of NC all coming in and assembling for their big rally & ride tomorrow. Looks to be upwards of 75-80 Camaro owners staying here.
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  • Day 11 of AT in North Carolina NOBO

    May 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    Zero day here at Fontana Dam Resort.

    Awoke at 9am to the sounds of revving Camaro engines and…. We’re off!!

    Had leftover pizza from last night for breakfast in the room and then went down the road a bit to do laundry and re-supply my food supplies in prep for entering the Great Smoky
    Mountains first thing tomorrow. Spoke to the family, organized a bunch of stuff and then headed to the Lodge here to update Find Penguins & Facebook with the last 6 days of journal entries.

    Ready to go to dinner in a few minutes, get to sleep early, and then off to the Smokies tomorrow!!
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  • Day 12 of AT in NC/TN NOBO

    May 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Fontana Marina (mile marker 164.7) to Mollies Ridge Shelter (#177.7).
    Daily Mileage: 13.0

    Pretty day, temps @ 70 and clear. 9:00 am. Shuttle driver “Shua” (he’s not a fan of his name Joshua, so his trail name is just the last part 🤓) took me the mile down from the Lodge to the Marina to continue where I left off.

    1.6 miles in on a paved road, I hit the Fontana Dam Visitor Center which was very interesting. The dam is the largest east of the Mississippi and was built over a 2.5 year span in the early 40’s. After the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, President Roosevelt knew he had to bolster our air forces, so he order a dam to be built in Fontana that would ultimately employ 1,200 workers over 2.5 years. The hydroelectric energy from the dam would be used by
    local steel co’s which in turn produced over 50,000 planes for the war effort. What is now the Fontana Village with its Lodge buildings, the cabins, etc. all used to be where the workers and their families stayed in the 1940’s. Pretty amazing piece of history.

    1.2 miles after walking over the dam, I dropped off my Smoky Mountains permit into the box and headed 10.2 miles straight up into the woods, destination Mollies Ridge Shelter for the evening. There were 4 hikers in the shelter and 8 of us in tents. It was a clear night at the campground, and a bear (or 2) were heard grunting and sniffing around our tents between 2-3:30 am, which was a bit disconcerting. But our food bags were hung up on the cables, and we were all left alone. We would hear bear each of the next 3 nights at around the same time. The Smokies are renown for their bear population as well as for their population of wild hogs.
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  • Day 13 of AT in TN NOBO

    May 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Mollies Ridge Shelter (mile marker 177.7) to Derrick Knob Shelter (#189.8).
    Daily Mileage: 12.1

    Yesterday’s miles took us from an Elev. of 1,700 ft to 4,700 ft. Today we would hit 5,600 ft before sheltering at 4,900. Hiked most of the day with Cassian, Chris and his 9 year old daughter Maxine (trail name: Drama-llama). Chris and his wife both work from home in Austin TX (he is the CEO of 2 small gaming companies CatNip Games & Shroud of the Avatar) and they home school Maxine, so they are able to get her involved in real world learning experiences such as section hiking different trails in the U.S. . The 2 of them have definitely added some fun and excitement to the late day proceedings around the campfire.

    Got to within 1.5 miles of Derrick Knob Shelter before the rain started. Was able to get there quickly and change into dry clothes. Temps at this elevation are low 60’s during the day and @ 50 at night. But seeing as the Smokies are a bio-diverse rain forest (the constant mist gives the mountains it’s name) all the clothing stays wet and you have to put it all on the next morning. 😣 But you have separate dry sleeping clothes to greet you each night which thankfully improves the mood!
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  • Day 14 of AT in TN NOBO

    May 15, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    Derrick Knob Shelter (mile marker 189.8) to Mt. Collins Shelter (#202.8).
    Daily Mileage: 13.0

    Day 14 started off calm and relatively clear, but would certainly not end that way in what would be the toughest test of our journey thus far.

    Today’s trek took us up and over the highest point on the whole Appalachian Trail: 6,658 ft Clingman’s Dome. We began at an Elev. of 4,771 ft and ascended to the top of Silers Bald (5,452 ft) by 12:00 for a nice, quick group lunch. We wanted to get going as rain was predicted for later in the afternoon.

    The group started to spread out and by 1:30 I hiked past Double Spring Gap Shelter and started the 3 mile ascent up to Clingman’s Dome. 1 mile later it started to rain and progressively got worse over the next 3 hours. Temps fell into the upper 40’s with strong thunderstorms and torrents of water rushing down the trail. Being soaked, cold and trekking in water up to your ankles is a bit worrisome, especially when you still have 4 miles left to reach the relative dry/warmth of the shelter. I got up to the top of the fire tower/dome, took a quick pic & video (zero views obviously from a tower that normally has the best views in the Smokies 🙁) and kept moving now downhill towards the shelter.

    It was tough to see the correct way to go in the heavy fog & rain, but I was fortunate to get to the shelter by 4:30 and get some dry clothes on and start a fire. Chipmunk was there from the previous night (he didn’t want to leave and hike in the storm that day). I was worried about Cassian, Moment (his trail name, a 24 yr old guy from Pepperell, MA who is very chill), Chris & “Drama-llama”. 2 hours later Chris & Maxine walked in, which was amazing… she was pretty calm about the events of the afternoon for a 9 year old. Chris on the other hand was trying to stay calm for her sake. 🙂Cassian & Moment it turns out had turned around halfway up to the Dome and went back to Double Spring Gap Shelter. Thankfully as Cassian had been having a leg problem and it would’ve been tough for him to successfully make it to Mt. Collins. So…. all ended ok and we lived to tell the tale. 😮‍💨
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  • Day 15 of AT in TN/NC NOBO

    May 16, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 82 °F

    Mt. Collins Shelter (mile marker 202.8) to Newfound Gap parking lot (#207.8) for shuttle ride down into Gatlinburg TN for a zero day tomorrow.

    We all woke up this am to sunnier skies and calmer weather. The privy was a good one and the spring for water was close by. All was right with the world!

    Mid evening last night, a hiker named Swiss Chris (Chris from the German area of northern Switzerland) got to the shelter in time to set up shop inside the shelter with me. A really nice guy. His intent is to thru hike to Katahdin by mid September. So it was me and Swiss Chris in the shelter, Chipmunk was out in his hammock, Chris & Maxine in their tent, and another nice couple from Wisconsin (both UW grads!!) in their tent. The bear came again last night and roamed around, but Chris & I were safe inside the shelter. (Btw, one of the attached pics is of me, Chipmunk & Swiss Chris).

    We all (except for the UW couple… they are section hiking Southbound) headed out Northbound the 5.0 miles to Newfound Gap for our 15 mile shuttle rides down into Gatlinburg TN. We just needed to get there by Noon, and it was mostly downhill. Got there in plenty of time and were welcomed by @ 75 cars/tour buses, and 100+ people. What a melting pot of humans. 🤓 You can imagine the look on Elmer & Ada’s faces when we came walking out of the woods!

    Chris, Maxine & I shared a shuttle I had reserved down into G with driver Nate. He is a newly minted triple crowner (when you have successfully thru-hiked the big 3: AT, PCT & CDT). A great guy and incredibly knowledgeable and loyal to the hiking community. He comes all the way from Asheville NC each day to shuttle hikers all over a wide geographic area on both sides of the Smokies.

    Got into the Fairfield Inn & Suites in G by 1:00 and started laundry, catching up on things now that I had WiFi, and best of all, 2 large pizzas & beer delivered to the room! Nothing better than that! 😋
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  • Day 16 of AT in TN (zero day)

    May 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Zero day here in Gatlinburg, TN.

    Getting food re-supply for
    the pack, walking around Gatlinburg sightseeing & people watching, updating journal & Facebook, and just all around chilling.
    Celtics-Heat game 1 tonight and shuttle pick up tomorrow at Noon to head back to the trail.
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  • Day 17 of AT in TN NOBO

    May 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Newfound Gap Parking Lot (mile marker 207.8) to Peck’s Corner (#218.2).
    Daily Mileage: 10.4

    Mike the shuttle driver picked me up at my hotel in Gatlinburg and dropped me back off at Newfound Gap at Noon. A very funny 65 year old guy with Dad jokes galore. The 25 min drive back up the mtn went by quickly.

    My hike began by checking out the bathrooms where many a hiker has had to camp out (sometimes for days) during winter weather when the road down to Gatlinburg is closed, which it often is in bad winter weather. They keep the bathrooms open all year round just in case. The opposite is also true that sometimes a hiker will get down to Gatlinburg in Jan-April, but then they close the road for up to 6 days and you are stuck in G unless a nice snowplow dude takes mercy on you and agrees to take you back up to Newfound!

    It was a much more moderate afternoon as far as hills go, so it was a very pleasant ridge-run to Peck’s Corner Shelter in the nice but cloudy 50 degree weather. The highlight of the afternoon was getting to Charlie’s Bunion, a jagged, rocky outcropping that tests your nerves with severe drops to the valley below. I got close to the Bunion itself, but was happy to stay back a bit and take a picture of a young couple sitting mere feet away from doom. You know, no big whoop.

    Got to the shelter at @ 6pm with 12 hikers already sitting around eating and swapping stories. This was a new crew I hadn’t met before. More than half were men & women in their 60’s & 70’s out for 1-2 week section hikes. 8 of us stayed in the shelter that
    Night and had some great discussion (or at least I sat back and heard some great “life observation” stories I may or may not have asked to hear! 😉).
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  • Day 18 of AT in TN NOBO

    May 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Peck’s Corner Shelter (mile marker 218.2) to Mt. Cammerer Lookout Tower (#233.9).
    Daily Mileage: 15.7

    Everyone left the shelter this am at @ 8am for what would be a long & eventful
    Day. We knew that it would be hilly and we knew we’d need to go longer today as one of the upcoming shelters that would’ve been a convenient day end stopping point has been closed due to a recent bear attack and subsequent euthanization of the bear. That shelter is 12.9 miles down the trail, so the decision would be to either find a stealth tenting spot along the way (not ideal due to lack of flat spots), or hoof it to Mt. Cammerer Lookout (16 miles) and camp somewhere near there.

    There were 2 interesting spots of note today. One was the official Smokies Rescue Squad helicopter pad (see pic) that sits right in the middle of the trail at mile # 225). It’s still in use to extricate stranded or injured hikers.
    The other interesting spot was at mile # 227, where the wreckage of a 1984 plane crash exists that spread plane parts over a 20 acre area. A U.S. RF Phantom fighter jet from SC was on some sort of training mission when it crashed into the mountainside going 500 mph. The 28 yr old pilot and 36 yr old co-pilot were killed. I spent @ 30 minutes walking off the trail a bit and found 5 different areas of wreckage (see some of the pics). A very sobering
    Experience.

    I decided to go all the way to the Mt. Cammerer Lookout Tower to find shelter for the evening and to see what all the talk was about re how beautiful a spot it is when clear. What I found was nothing short of stunning. I got to the tower (at 5,000 ft elevation) at 6:15pm with the partly cloudy skies casting beautiful shadows and rays of light onto the countryside. One of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen (including the Grand Canyon, etc.). See the pics and video attached. I sat down inside the tower by myself, had dinner, set up my tent, and slept fairly comfortably the whole night (save for waking up every 2 hrs thinking I was hearing a bear entering) 😳
    Truly a memorable evening.
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  • Day 19 of AT in TN NOBO

    May 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    Mt. Cammerer Lookout Tower (mile marker 233.9) to Green Corner Road pick-up spot (241.8).
    Daily Mileage: 8.0

    Rained a bit last night (with no bear activity!) but not bad when I started hiking at 9am. It’s 0.6 miles to get back to the AT from the lookout tower, but I have plenty of time today to go the mostly downhill 8 miles to meet Nate the shuttle driver at 2:30 for my off day tomorrow in Newport TN.

    A rainstorm was supposed to hit the Smokies today, and I was hoping for dry hiking weather down the mountain (4,000 ft descent to the valley floor)…. Success, it stayed dry! A fairly uneventful and relaxed trek down and was able to talk to a fair number of the day hikers (it’s Saturday) coming the other way and hear their itineraries for their hikes.

    One interesting thing of note was having to break through the cobwebs going across the trail every couple of minutes as I was the first one trail blazing this part of the trail this am. It’s actually pretty annoying and was happy this was the first (and last 🤞) time I’ve had to do this. 1st world problems!! 🙂

    I took my final steps in the Smokies and left the boundary @ 12:30. I had to deposit the other half of my Smokies permit into the box to conclude my stay in this National Park. See the attached video for a cute story of who actually put my permit in the box.

    That last 1.3 miles upon leaving the Smokies was a blast back to reality. I passed a couple of roaring streams, I crossed a bridge that spanned a river filled with rafters and kayakers, and I walked under Interstate 40 that connects Asheville NC to Knoxville TN. (See pics & video).

    Nate picked me up at 2:15 and ushered me 25 mins down the road to the beautiful (?) 🙂 hamlet of Newport TN and my modest accommodations at the Best Western. It’s actually been the perfect place for a 36 hr stay with on-site laundry, a great breakfast included, and less than a 5 min walk to Ruby Tuesday, a Papa John’s, a Cracker Barrel AND a Walmart to re-supply. 😋
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  • Day 20 of AT in TN

    May 21, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Zero day in Newport TN

    Great dinner and beer at Ruby Tuesday’s last night
    after laundry time.

    Brunch today at Wendy’s, re-supply at Walmart and now pizza and basketball tonight. Go Celtics!

  • Day 21 of AT in NC NOBO

    May 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Green Corner Road drop off spot (mile marker 241.8) to Max Patch Roadside tent area (#254.3).
    Daily mileage: 12.5

    Nate dropped me back off at Green Corner Rd at 10:45 am and I immediately headed 4 miles straight uphill to the top of Snowbird Peak (4,300 ft Elev). The run of great weather continues with sunny skies and a high @ 65 at the higher elevations. A pretty view from Snowbird, but seeing as I got a late start, I wanted to quickly get going on some miles for the day.

    Passed Groundhog Creek Shelter and numerous ups and downs on the 8 mile afternoon journey to my evening tent spot just below Max Patch. A small tenting area right next to the gravel road that cars take up to the Max Patch parking lot. Was all by myself tonight and got set up for camp and ate dinner @ 7pm. No bear sightings and only a couple of cars zooming up the road at @ 2am (to get up to the top in time for the sunrise?).

    Did have a fun surprise at 7:45 pm. Who showed up coincidentally on the gravel road to drop of 2 hikers but Nate! He’s amazing, he goes all day from 4:30 am to 9pm six days a week shuttling hikers to and fro. He’ll be shuttling me to the Asheville NC airport to fly home in 10 days.
    The husband and wife tandem he dropped off I would get to know extremely well over the next 4 days. More to come on that!
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  • Day 22 of AT in NC NOBO

    May 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Max Patch roadside tent area (mile marker # 254.3) to Deer Park Mountain Shelter (#271.7)
    Daily Mileage: 17.4

    A decent night of sleep last night and another glorious day to trek the 0.8 miles up to the top of Max Patch for breakfast at 9:00. True 360 degree views from the top (4,600 ft). Decent enough weather for a video (a bit windy!) and for calling home to speak with family. In years gone by, you could tent up on top of the Max Patch bald, but they forbidden it over the past 2 years to allow vegetation and the bio-diversity to regenerate.

    Was able to make some decent mileage this afternoon even though I stopped to make some phone calls (as I actually got some AT&T service!), took some pics & vids, and spoke to quite a few people (a few of which I would see tonight at the shelter).

    Hopped over the 4,700 ft Bluff Mountain by mid afternoon and then had a flat to downhill 8.0 mile ridge run all the way to Deer Park Mtn Shelter.

    I was joined for the evening by a cast of fun characters. A fun loving 28 year old Aussie who was running out of food and had just done a 24 mile day (I gave him some dinner).
    A Chinese gal who had come over from Beijing during COVID and resides in San Jose CA. We talked about what it was like to be locked down during COVID in China and she said it was quite the scene. Couldn’t go out of the apartment but the government did send people food care packages. Once they sent a live chicken! 😳
    Two 60 year gals (one who had successfully thru hiked back in 2011) who were doing a section hike from their homes in Erwin TN (75 miles up the trail). One was from Sweden originally, and the other was an Army brat who had lived in Japan, Hawaii, Virginia, etc. growing up. They used to take in thru hikers for a number of years but had officially stopped, though they extended an invitation to me when I get up to Erwin either next week or when I return down next Spring to continue hiking North.

    The last couple was a husband & wife team who I would hike quite a bit with and would spend a lot of time in the coming days. Both in their early 60’s, Robert (“Short Story”) and Anne (“Downhill”) live in Chapel Hill NC and it’s the second marriage for each. They have a blended family of 7 kids and 3 grandkids. It was quite the scandal 25 years ago when they left their respective spouses to get married when their oldest kids were in the 3rd grade. Anne grew up in Fairfield CT down the street from Karina (don’t know any of the same people due to age difference) and he lived in Ridgefield CT. Such a wonderful couple and it was fun hearing about their careers and the lives of their kids. They do well for themselves and are hoping to finish section hiking the trail in 4-5 years. They are at mile 800 (total) out of 2,200 right now. Both of them have run 2 NYC Marathons together and numerous other Marathons and Ultras, so we didn’t have a lack of things to talk about!
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  • Day 23 of AT in NC NOBO

    May 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Deer Park Mountain Shelter (mile marker 271.7) to downtown Hot Springs, NC 275.1
    Daily Mileage: 3.4

    After two long’ish and mountainous days yesterday and the day before, I woke up a bit later this am as I knew I had left myself 3.4 relatively easy miles into Hot Springs for an afternoon off and then a full off day tomorrow.

    Another beautiful day in the neighborhood with temps @ 85 when I got down to the valley floor. Hot Springs came into view about 1.5 miles into the morning proceedings.. such a pretty countryside with large track farmlands and the fast flowing French Broad River dominating the scenery.

    Once down, the first thing I passed by was The Laughing Heart Hostel & Lodge, a fairly famous stopover for thru and section hikers. They turned a large, old time church into the hostel portion of the property that houses the bunkhouses, store, laundry, etc. . The larger lodge next door has private rooms with baths and their own hot tubs with local hot mineral water that makes the town famous.

    I passed Laughing Heart and at the corner of the driveway and Main St that takes you the 0.7 miles through town sat the Police Chief in his cruiser just chillin’. He rolled down the window and then got out and we chatted for 20 mins. Really nice guy. I was asking him about the town’s history, places he recommended to eat, and how things and have changed (if at all) over the past decade. He said they had their first drive by shooting of all time (a domestic dispute) 2 weeks ago, but that there’s essentially zero crime. But social media has boosted tourism in recent years past the point that locals like. But there’s no putting the genie back in the bottle. Overall, he loves serving the community and it’s a small but great place to live.

    I walked down to the Smokey Mountain Diner and ate my fill with other hikers that had just come out of the woods, and then proceeded on to check out the Hillbilly Market, the Dollar General, the Historical Center, the hikers outfitting shop, etc. to scope out eating and re-supply options.

    At the historical center, I learned something interesting. When the U.S. entered WWI in 1917, several German civilian ships were seized on the East coast. Overnight, 2,700 seaman and officers became “enemy aliens”. Within days, the US Gov’t leased the Hot Springs Resort & Spa (where I’m staying) to serve as an internment camp to house the Germans. The main lodge housed the officers of the ships, and within a month barracks were built across the street to house the other 2,500 seaman. A hospital was built, some wives and children were allowed to travel over to be with the men, and the officers were even allowed to cultivate vegetable gardens. Overnight, a town of 650 residents became home to 2,500 Germans. Pretty interesting!

    I checked into the Hot Springs Resort, did laundry in my room, got coffee and ice cream at the Artisan gourmet place across the street, and then spent 2.5 hrs having dinner and beer with Robert & Anne at Big Pillow Brewing (also next door). Big Pillow was quite lively and the Karaoke was riveting! (See video).
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  • Day 24 Zero Day in Hot Springs, NC

    May 25, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Zero day in Hot Springs NC (mile marker (275.1)
    Daily Mileage: 0

    Had a great day relaxing in Hot Springs. Clear skies and 82 degrees. Breakfast at Artisun Gallery & Cafe. Great Lattes and fresh bagels. Went back there after lunch for their awesome ice cream.
    Had lunch at Spring Creek Tavern and who was my server? None other than…. Cindy the Karaoke Queen from last night’s video! She’s pretty funny. Heard about her whole life story and the fun characters that like to frequent Karaoke nights at Big Pillow Brewing.

    Went back to the room mid afternoon to chill and update my journal & FB. Headed out to dinner at 6:30 a block away at Iron
    Horse Station restaurant with Robert & Anne. They are so much fun and have a zillion interesting stories. They go back to Chapel Hill NC tomorrow and I’ll most likely be section hiking Virginia with them come next April.

    I’m currently sitting here watching the Celtics-Heat game 5 and getting ready for a big next 5 days of hills and miles starting tomorrow early am. 5 days of food weighing @ 11 lbs. Ugh. The goal is to get to Erwin TN (mile marker 350) by next Wed am, when I’ll head to the Asheville NC airport to fly home.

    More to come early next week, happy Memorial Day to all!
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  • Day 25 of AT in NC/TN NOBO

    May 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Hot Springs NC (mile marker 275.1) to Cookie Lady stealth spot at Log Cabin Drive (#291.3).
    Daily mileage: 16.2

    The nice weather continues as I make my way over the French Broad River and out of Hot Springs. The next 10 miles will see an increase in elevation from 1,300 ft to a max of 3,600 ft.

    Everyone heading out of Hot Springs this week knows that miles 280.0 to 287.0 are closed to sheltering and tenting due to recent aggressive bear activity. So…. we know we either need to do a short day and camp at mile 275, or head up and over Spring Mountain and push at least to Allen Gap (mile 289). Feeling restless after almost 48 hrs of fun downtime, it’s time to hoof it to the Cookie Lady before nightfall.

    The “Cookie Lady” (Peggy) is famous. (See attached pics of her and her place). She ( and her husband) are in their late 60’s and own a cute log cabin in the middle of nowhere at a dirt road crossing at mile 291. All hikers know that you can see her cabin from the trail and she has homemade cookies, big coolers of spring water, antibacterial wipes, and a few other items for hikers from 9am to 8pm each day. She is very sweet and loves providing her special brand of trail magic. I got to her house at 7:15 pm and was hoping I wasn’t too late. She and her husband had just had dinner and she was waiting on the porch. I was more hungry for my upcoming dinner and filling my empty water bottles than for cookies, but I spent 20 minutes having a great conversation with her. She has given out more than 1,500 cookies since mid January and still going strong. I gave her $20 for future ingredients for the cookies and thanked her for all she does for everyone. She had been a beacon of light for a few of my friends who had continued with their thru hikes when I had to stop back in early March. She was so appreciative and I told her to keep doing was she does!!

    I ended the day about 0.2 miles up the hill from Peggy’s place and was happy to quickly set up camp by myself and eat dinner just before dark came. A long, hilly day, but a lot of fun meeting a true Appalachian Trail icon!
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