Costa Rica - Pura Vida

December 2017 - January 2018
A 32-day adventure by Sophia Read more
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  • Day 1

    San José Airport

    December 28, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Welcome to Costa Rica!

    I can't believe it, I finally made it - Costa Rica baby!! It was a very exciting journey full of adrenaline. After the woman at the check-in counter told me that I have to pick up my luggage at London Heathrow and to change airports my stress level was at its peak. I was told to have four hours to change from London Heathrow to London Gatwick what - calculated without traffic jam - takes about one hour by bus. Because this never occurred to me before on long-haul flights, I wasn't prepared for it and pretty nervous about whether I would catch the flight yet. (As a short side note: Never forget to check the shorthand symbols! I definitely won't forget it again..this one taught me a real lesson!) Finally landed in London, it took 45 minutes to get the luggages. Therefore, I had to take the later bus which arrived very close to the check-in deadline. In my predicament, I met two guys from Europe at the bus station whose destination was the same as mine: Costa Rica. Together with my new fellow sufferers we were sweating through the whole bus ride. 3 minutes before the counters close and just in time, we arrived at the check-in. You can't imagine how relieved I was about sitting in this airplane. I have already seen this flight flying without me. The flight could have taken for ages, I was too happy to be in the aircraft to think about the long journey of 11.30 hours that lay in front of me. I barely couldn't sleep but the flight passed faster than I thought with a lot of airplane-food, chatting with my Irish neighbor and watching movies.

    When we arrived in Costa Rica it was 5.30 p.m. and already getting dark outside. I was very glad and super excited to hear people speaking Spanish and listen to the well-known vibes of the latin beats in the airport. Outside, I was immediately welcomed by Brenda, who is a friend of my study colleague Lena, and her mother. By taxi we drove to the nearby town Cartago where Brenda and her family live. (As a side fact: Cartago is the former capital of Costa Rica but had to give up its position when San José got more and more important by their increasing economy because of coffee production). Even if it was already quite dark outside I could observe the environmental surroundings during the ride. Surprisingly, it appeared quite similar to me as Ecuador - at first glance: The house's facades, the driving style,...In the house, I was welcomed very warmly by the rest of Brenda's family and immediately introduced to the first typical local plate: Gallo pinto (as much as to say: spotted rooster). It is a traditional rice-and-bean breakfast dish of Costa Rica, maybe because the rice's natural color is white but the beans and special spices give it a red or purple color. It was served together with crumbled eggs. In a conversation with the family I learned already some important facts about Costa Rican life. To name only the most important ones:

    1. Tico - The Costa Rican people call themselves "ticos" what is used for men and "ticas" what indicates the female name.

    2. Mae - The word "is heard with astonishing frequency, especially among men. It’s used like “dude” among friends, or it can refer to any person. (Some people use it that often that it can appear in the same sentence several times: “Mae, that mae has no idea what he’s talking about, mae.”)

    3. Pura Vida - The expression "Pure life" is very important for Costa Rican culture and is used in any context is. This Costa Rican phrase has many meanings: great, fantastic, hello, nice to meet you, thank you, or you’re welcome.

    So far so good with Costa Rican lessons..Even if the night was pretty cold and I needed to use 3 blankets at once - because Cartago is located higher on the mountain side - I slept like a baby.

    Good night mae!
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  • Day 2

    Cartago

    December 29, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Discovering Cartago

    The next morning I was woken at 8.00 a.m. by ABBA's Dancing Queen coming out of the kitchen where Brenda's mother was preparing the breakfast. As if the music was not enough as an alarm clock, ABBA was battled by Major Tom with a disco bass and cinema speaker quality from the neighboring house. Welcome to Latin America: Super loud music everywhere and at any time! The funny thing is that you would expect Spanish music instead of English..The breakfast this morning consisted out of the dish "Tamale". Tamales are a traditional Tico Christmas specialty, but many tipico restaurants serve them year round for the tourists. But they were already familiar to me because I ate them before in Ecuador. They are made of corn masa or dough, which is steamed in a banana leaf. The wrapping is discarded before eating. Tamales can be filled with meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, chilies or any preparation according to taste. After this delicious breakfast we went up the mountain to the "Mirador Rosi" from which you have an amazing view over the city Rosi, the mountain side and the river. It is a very tranquil, relaxing and peaceful place where families and friends meet to have a picnic or barbecue. This spot is more than recommendable and by the way accessible without paying any entry. After our trip to the mirador we went through Cartago's city centre. Amongst other buildings, we passed a ruin which once used to be the old basilica but which one was destroyed during a earthquake years ago. Inside of the ruin one can find a park-like ambience and in the end of the basilica some animals like rabbits, chickens, a cow and a manger. In the evening it was time to continue the journey. Brenda, her cousin and I went by bus to San José to visit her friend's house party. Her friend lives right next to all the bars and clubs: a long party night was inevitable!

    Qué viva la fiesta!
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  • Day 3

    Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

    December 30, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Reaching Lazy Loft

    The next day I went by bus to Puerto Viejo. Right at the bus station I met the first German guys from Hamburg. (Costa Rica is full of German tourists!) Bus rides are crazy over hear. We passed the landscape in a life threatening tempo without paying attention to any speed limit driving through narrow streets. (I already prepared myself to find the best position for surviving a crash with an accommodating bus or some palm trees ..). After 5 hours we finally made it but were welcomed by pure rainfall. I made my way through the small town asking for the hostel. At least I found the hostel and was welcomed very warmly and with a big smile by another volunteer. All the volunteer seemed to be a nice and lovely group. A life band was playing (actually at least one life band is always playing in the evenings downstairs in the bar Lazy Mon). My first shopping tour turned out to be very pricey. Costa Rica is very expensive to buy food in comparison to other Latin American countries. One just has to find its way to eat at least a bit healthy but still buy always the most cheapest things only. My first meal: Toast bread with avocado and tomato. Tired of the journey, I went to bed very soon this night.

    The next morning it was still bucketing down. I thought that at least at the beach would be good weather but it didn’t stop raining. The only good thing was: I didn’t have to work and in the evening would be a big party at the hostel as I was told. In the evening we got ourselves ready for the New Years party. Everyone was quite excited. In celebration of the day, we went into the bar to get something to eat. The Burger was super delicious and as volunteers we always get 25 percents off. The bar Lazy Mon below the hostel was full of people. There were two live bands playing. The second one was a Reggae band. (side note: Reggae is a very common and popular musical style at the Caribbean sea because the immigration of Afro-American people had a great influence on the music in this region). At 12 p.m. the beachside was completely crowded and then there was no holding the people back from getting rid of there fireworks deposits. Afterwards, there was a very impressive fire show and the rest of the night a DJ was heating up the crowd. At 6 a.m. the party seemed to reach its end.

    Happy New Year and Pura Vida from Costa Rica to everyone!!
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  • Day 8

    Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

    January 4, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    2018!!

    The first day of the year and we were awoken by sunbeams. I couldn’t have imagined the weather to be better. It was the perfect beach weather. But first I decided to go on a walk and discover the small town to get to know the place where I actually was landed. So far I hadn’t left the Loft and even if Puerto Viejo is a very small Caribbean sea town it has a lot of interesting shops and places to go to and have different types of typical Costa Rican food for example. The whole town has only one „calle principal“ (main street) and most of the places are located at this street right beside the beach. But nevertheless, it is still very calm and a simply peaceful place to be - apart from the music that plays everywhere as for instance in restaurants, hostels, shops or private houses. Because I had all the day off I had enough time to go unhurriedly through all the shops. I could have bought so many things if it wouldn’t have been so expensive. But nearly everything is handmade and simply unique. When I came back to the hostel I immediately put on my swimsuit and jumped into the refreshing water.

    The next day was the first working day and first working shift. The shifts are divided into morning shift, midday shift and evening shift and take 5 hours each. In total I have to work 5 days a week and get 2 days off. Because of the New Year's stress my boss Nicole and her husband Khalil, an American couple who runs the hostel, forgot to plan a Trainee shift for me. So I was alone in my first shift what turned out be very stressful and forced me to find always some other volunteer to help me with special cases. But thanks to my hotel experience I could manage the whole shift passably. Nevertheless it was a good experience and I learned a lot this day. At the reception you always get to know a lot of people. They are from all over the world and mostly in the same age than we volunteers.

    In the evening was the weekly ladies night - TASTY Tuesday. Every evening is a ladies night in some other club - except for Wednesdays. Girls get free drinks from 10 to 11 p.m.. To get to the club we have to walk 15 minutes because it is located between two towns but the journey is worth it and we are always accompanied by one of our dogs. With a big group of volunteers and hotel guests we made our way through a jungle like environment. This is my favorite club so far. The DJ plays a mix between HipHop, Black Music and Reggaeton, people play beer pong and the club is half open so people dance under the open sky. On the way back we always get some Yuka or Empanada with cheese from a street food stall. It's like the Costa Rican Döner after a party night - simply delicious!! The hostel is always watched by our guard at nighttime, so nobody else than the hostel guests can enter the building. Because I had to get up early in the morning I made my way straight into bed.

    Buenas noches!
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  • Day 12

    Cahuita

    January 8, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    New day new luck!

    The last night was pretty rough. After my dinner I felt very sick and when I was in bed I felt even worse. I spend the night standing up and throwing up several times until 4.30 a.m.. If the next morning wouldn’t have woken me up with the most beautiful weather I probably couldn’t have got up that easily - I still felt a horrible stomach ache. But still after spending nearly the entire week in the hostel I really felt like going to see some other place - Even if the beach in front of or hostel is incredible. I would say simply the place to be! Together with Aina - a workaway from Spain - I went to the farmacy to get all the medicine I could get just in case to get better. We left early with two other guys from the hostel to go to the Cahuita Beach. It’s like twenty-five minutes bus ride from Puerto Viejo and it took me the whole bus ride to eat an apple - I simply had no appetite and no energy left. I just thought we would stay the whole day at beach and just doing nothing. However, when we got there the others were telling me that there was actually a National Park in Cahuita that included some parts of the ocean side. As I still did not know what expected me I said I would come with them. Actually, it turned out to be a 10 kilometers hike. I don’t know how I did it in the end but somehow I made it all the way like a zombie through the whole park. Still it was simply awesome and astonishing. Costa Rica has a incredible biodiversity: We saw a lot of sloths, monkeys, crabs,…It was simply amazing to walk in the jungle-like forest but still seeing the sea side right beside us. The path sometimes gives chances to quit the track and enjoy one of the very tranquil beaches - until the monkeys get your food. So better watch out! We had to cross to rivers - twice. After we had already passed them, they told us on the way back that they saw a crocodile in one of the rivers the other day. Luckily, it stood away this day! As we got nearly back to the entry we saw a sloth laying on the floor. First we took photos and thought how cute he looked but then another men told us that he probably fell from a tree - like from 5 meters height. As he seemed injured we called a park guard. When we got back to the hostel I just enjoyed the live music but there was no partying for me tonight. I just ate my soup and that’s it - still on recovery..

    Hasta Mañana!
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  • Day 13

    Playa Cocles

    January 9, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Sun Is Up

    I don’t know what caused the change but this morning the weather promised the day to be a good and sunny one again. Since the weather changed I feel so enterprising and curious to see as many places as possible. Today we planned to visit the Bri Bri Waterfalls. By bus we were chauffeured directly in front of the entry. The guard told us to take some sticks because the way could be slippery and explained in which waterfall we could bathe and in which not because the water jet was to strong and dangerous. Actually, it is not the biggest waterfall and only like 10 minutes walk in total. It turned out that the bus driver let us off at the wrong waterfalls - the so-called Home Creek Waterfalls. Nevertheless, it was a really nice setting and worth to visit.

    After we had still so much time we decided to go back and spend some time at the Playa Cocles. I was very curious to see this beach actually, because everybody was talking about it. Especially, for surfing one can enjoy the perfect waves in Cocles. The way to get there, however, turned out to be more difficult than expected. The bus which passes like every half an hour just passed when we waved so we tried to tramp by private cars. However, here in Costa Rica it seems not to be so easy to tramp than for example in Ecuador where everyone carries everyone. (Later on somebody some guys told us that they often don’t like to carry people. Even if we were just three innocent-looking girls, most people might be afraid of others hiding in the back and robbing the car when they would stop to let us jump on.) In the end, nonetheless, three guys were willing to let us jump on their pick up. We spent a really beautiful afternoon at the beach!
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  • Day 14

    Punta Uva

    January 10, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Good morning everyone!

    With new energy we started our day trip to Punta Uva. It’s a beautiful beach with a viewing point and also one of the places one shouldn’t miss when staying in the region of Puerto Viejo. It was still pretty early but nevertheless, we started our bicycle ride in a tropical heat. However, we should’t complain after one week of rain these hot days were simply perfect!! To get to Punta Uva one has to ride on the „normal“ street where cars pass by in a dangerously highway-speed. But as soon as we got there we recognized that the way was really worth it. Punta Uva is a very tranquil place. Even if there are a lot of visitors its length alouds one always to find a more private and calm place. We spend some time at the beach and then we climbed up the viewing point which is kind of hidden at the end of the beach by some cliffs. We were rewarded with an incredible view over the beaches to both sides. The peak at the end of the hike is a tunnel which connects both seasides and can be passed. The only catch was that the way was very slippery. It happened even faster than I was able to react. In the moment I slipped down the rocks my first thought was to hold my bag up high and protect the mobile phone of being drown in the sea. But it was too late - together with my bag I was thrown into the sea. Lucky me, I could get out my bag really quickly, I could take off the cover and turn it off. But even worse was to come. Because the ground was slippery, I had taken off my Flip Flops what got me something sharp in the foot.

    Back home I tried to get it out. Luca and Patrick, two guys from Switzerland, tried to help me get it out. But as we had no needle the operation turned out to be much more difficult than previously expected. But Swiss people, prepared as always, never go on travel without their Swiss pocket knife. Together we tried to open it a bit because it turned out to be stuck into my foot very deep. Unsuccessfully, I heard that some doctors from the United States were staying with us in the hostel - Lucky me! He checked my injection pass - everything seemed to be fine. After half an our the operation was finalized. Relieved, I could go to bed.

    'Till tomorrow, then!
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  • Day 15

    Manzanillo

    January 11, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Welcome to the Caribbean!

    This morning we rode by bicycle to the Manzanillo Park. It’s the most beautiful beach I have seen so far - pure Caribbean flair and simply paradisiacal! But to get there it takes you like one hour. We always ride in bikini because it’s simply to hot and sweaty to keep your clothes on - What effects especially, the car horns of the cars passing by..It’s a nice way though. Sometimes shady, sometimes in the sun and at the end one has to overcome a few hills to reach Manzanillo - what is really a lot of exercise as the bicycles have no gear. To enter the park one needs to pass a bridge. Then we followed the path right beneath the sea - similar to the Cahuita Park. We could see a lot of animals as well but the beaches were a way much better than the ones in Cahuita. But the peak of the trip was yet to come. Out of nowhere, we were surprised by a breathtaking view - this was simply paradise. I think I only saw two beaches comparable to this one in Galapagos at Tortuga Bay and Hawaii at the Haleiwa. The water was so transparent and blue - it’s actually, one of the best snorkeling spots in this area. I could have stayed there all day long. But we moved on because we wanted to see the cave. We were told to find a cave after the viewing point with a very hidden entry in the riff wall. It’s seven meters long and has a hole through which one can observe the sky above - however, we weren’t able to find the entry and turned. On the way back, we stayed at one of the beaches and enjoyed the coconuts we bought. To eat the fruit we found a woman who opened the coconut for us and cut out a spoon from another coconut - yammi!! After a while we had to make our way back home because Aina had to work the evening shift.

    This day was one of my favorites so far!
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  • Day 16

    Koki Beach Restaurant

    January 12, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Awesome Workaway Team

    Today pretty everyone was off from work, so Martin, Vishal, Aina and I decided to stay the day at Playa Cocles. Martin went by skateboard carrying his surfboard while we others went by bike, me carrying his guitar. Since I couldn’t surf so far because of bad weather, being ill and not having a surfboard, I was pretty excited to try it again - it has been one year since I surfed in Haleiwa. Playa Cocles has pretty good waves but however, my arms are not trained enough and the waves are changing their location very quickly what makes it difficult for me to even be able to catch a wave. The next problem was Martin’s surf board - it’s definitely not a beginner board. Even if I struggled the whole time and had to put a lot of effort into it, I still felt more than happy to be back surfing in the water! After surfing we began to jam. People were passing by and some asked to play the guitar for a while. This day, there was also a surfing competition going on - pretty good surfers! Aina and I got hungry and so we bought some meat stick from a street food stand - very spicy!

    In the evening, as we got back, we decided to go out and to wander a bit through the center of Puerto Viejo. The Swiss guys, Patrick and Luca, wanted to join us. It was pretty much fun with them and finally, we ended in the fancy bar, I always had passed but never had gone inside so far. The Koki Beach Bar is really worth a visit! The cocktails were "super rico“ and after a while a sloth was passing by the roof. After the bar nearly closed, we went back to the hostel. Aina went to bed and the rest of us played some ping pong. We were talking on the balcony until late in the night. The guys taught me some Swiss farmer dialect from St. Gallen: „Hay doi, gö ma i dä möscht!“, was so viel bedeutet wie: „Hey you, let’s go to the bar!“ They were pretty fun and I will definitely miss them when they’re leaving tomorrow! But that’s the point about working in a backpacker hostel: You get to know a lot of awesome people but they will never stay for a long time…

    Looking forward to reunite at the Pacific Coast!
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  • Day 17

    Lazy Mon Bar

    January 13, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It's just a short Farewell

    The next day was the Aina’s last day here in Puerto Viejo. I helped her getting all the rest of the stuff she needed as we went through the center to buy the bus ticket. Then Mia and I went for a walk with Backster, the hostel dog. He’s not aloud to run outside than the other dog Jackie upstairs - she’s kind of a street dog, passing by because we feed her. When you go for a walk with a dog here in Costa Rica everyone stares at you because there not used to somebody’s doing that. Nevertheless, Backster seemed to be satisfied.

    Because it was Saturday night, there would be a party in our bar downstairs. So we got ourselves ready, invited all the hotel guests and went downstairs. The bar is a pretty cool place with ping pong, billiard and beer pong. The restaurant outside turns into the dance floor at night time. There are always to live bands playing during dinner time and then the tables are put away and people can dance to the music of the DJ - which is mostly Reggae alternating with Electro, HipHop and Reggaeton. First, I wanted to play ping pong but as two men were still playing, I had to wait. When I asked one of them if we could take over, he offered me the deal to play against them and the one who wins could stay. To their annoyance, I beat both of them and Mia and I could play. Even if I had watched the fire show now for a million times, it is still an event to watch. This night we danced all night long till the DJ had to stop the music. It was a good farewell party - I will definitely miss Aina!!

    See you soon at the Pacific cariño! <3

    No sooner had Aina gone, it started to rain again. But this time more than ever. Our apartment was completely flooded which is lower located than the Lazy Loft. Luckily, I was prepared and I had already put all my stuff above in the shelves. Because it was to dangerous with the electricity our boss Nicole called and told us to sleep upstairs in the beds that were still available and on the couches and extra mattresses in the living room. Actually, it was pretty fun and had the flair of a sleepover party night!

    Together with Jackie we fell asleep - Dulces sueños!
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