West Cork here I come

July - August 2022
Lovely weather and south east winds, there only one place to be, West Cork.
Sitting on Eureka, sipping a can of beer with a book in the other hand.
Tomorrow I head west.
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  • 234sea miles
  • Day 1

    East Ferry Marina

    July 17, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Sitting on Eureka sipping a can of beer with a book in my other hand.
    Starting to cool down in the gentle breeze but still in T-shirt and sandals
    Looking forward to an earlyish start and south easterly winds and nice sunshine.
    This beats the med any day 😉
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  • Day 2

    Glandore is too popular!

    July 18, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I suppose you can’t have everything?
    Set off at 07.00 just after a lovely dawn.
    It was flat calm at East Ferry but once I was past White Gate there was a bit of a breeze and the engine was off as I passed Roches Point.
    The Bimini was extended and as the morning heated up I was glad of its shade.
    The winds were light until Oyster Haven and I had a good sail to the Old Head, then someone turned off the wind and for the rest of the voyage the sails were up and down as I got a bit of exercise in winching away.
    Only one small dolphin 🐬 kept me company for a few minutes.
    I finally gave up on trying to sail shortly after the Galley and was spotted by ‘the sheriff’ as I approached Glandore.
    Well, they’ve put a harbour master in place but taken away the visitor moorings (that’s some improvement) so I anchored at 19.30 among some other visitors.
    Had my dinner in the cockpit on a lovely warm evening while I wondered about going ashore. The place looks jam packed with tourists, you’d think they’d have some better places to go 😎
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  • Day 3

    A quite night in.

    July 19, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Boy was I tired. I slept until the phone woke me at 10.00.
    This covid thing just sucks the energy out of you.
    A quick trip ashore in the dinghy and a lovely cup of coffee while I waited for Maeve to arrive.
    I was mortified when she did as she picked out the wrong boat as being Eureka.
    When I went back aboard in the evening I had to apologise and explain to Eureka that Maeve hadn’t gone to spec savers.
    Anyway back to the morning, Maeve and I had lunch in Roscarbery and headed back to Cononagh to met Maeve’s sister and B.I.L.
    Later B.I.L Tony and I went on a mooring cleaning exercise to Castlehaven where he keeps his boat.
    I didn’t take long to clean his so we visited a friend, Marcus who has his yacht close by.
    Cleaning his mooring was a different kettle of shellfish and required a lot of ‘muscles’ to be evicted.
    Marcus paid up with a can or two of beer before we returned ashore and I was dropped off back at Glandore.
    A good few visiting yachts had arrived in my absence including two from East Ferry. Another few arrived as I was making the dinner and I counted 13 before I headed down below. 4 French, 3 British, 4 East Ferry ie Irish but from the best part and 2 unknown.
    Tomorrow I’m hoping to meet ‘Phoenix’ another East Ferry boat in Castletownsend who plan to overnight there on their way back east.
    So it’ll be a long day, 6 mls? I’ll have to find some places to visit on the way to make good use of the day.
    Covid has hit some of the relations here in West Cork so I’ll remain crew-less and may have to leave my visiting till I’m passing the door on the way back all going well.
    So tonight I’m having a quite night onboard as I just don’t feel like going ashore as the company is just as good here 🤪
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  • Day 4

    Meeting fellow East Ferry sailors

    July 20, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Had a ‘long’ voyage today around the corner to Castletownsend as I am meeting the crew of ‘Phoenix’ a neighbour on East Ferry marina.
    I left an overcast but warm Glandore at 11.40, the second last visitor to leave.
    The brits were early risers and had left by the time I woke up, Next to go were the French as I was having my breakfast. It seemed like once one left, the rest had to leg it as well.
    The home team were in no hurry and each of us made sure the other was out of sight before we made our intentions known.
    There was a nice wind and I motorsailed out, cutting inside Eve and Adam, two islands near the mouth of Glandore harbour and set a course west, south of all the other islands that make this coast so attractive.
    I was soon at the mouth of the Castlehaven and tacked a few times to be able to sail in.
    It was only when I was off the village that I turned on the engine and dropped the sails.
    With the price of diesel at present you’d almost be tempted to launch the dinghy to tow Eureka in 😂

    I got a loan of a mooring from an ex collogue and tied up at 14.15.
    I normally try to clean up the mooring as ‘payment’ when I borrow it but this time I wasn’t able to do a decent job but I tried my best.

    I kept an eye out for ‘Phoenix’ but there was still no sign but I went ashore anyway and walked up to the pub for the appointed time and just before I got there I got a txt to say they had arrived.
    It turned out they had anchored in the cove, just inside Castlehaven so I wasn’t able to see them from where I was moored.
    It turned out the Fahanan and his wife Grainne were the crew and we had a lovely evening chatting over a few pints.
    Moments like this are precious when you’re sailing solo.
    You can eventually get fed up of your own company 😉
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  • Day 5

    Visitors and then there’s visitors

    July 21, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Woke up to a lovely warm calm morning.
    I decided to have breakfast on the go and set off with the main already hoisted.
    On the way out of the haven I saw Fanahan cleaning his waterline.
    First Shadoo, then Eureka and now Phoenix. This is catching, a bit like yachting covid.
    I passed a British boat heading in. He had made an early start from somewhere as it wasn’t even 10.00 yet.
    I had a nice sail west through Stag Sound and past the entrance to Baltimore but then the wind went from light to almost nonexistent.
    On came the engine and we motorsailed past Cape before heading north around the most southern point of Ireland.
    ‘Shadoo’ my near neighbour on the marina was anchored in the south harbour in Cape but I continue on and tried to sail but what little wind there was kept coming and going.
    The engine stayed on for the last five miles into Crookhaven.
    As I entered, a friend Marcus was coming out in his boat ‘Kudos’ so I did a handbrake turn and snuck up beside him.
    Sneaky bastards these ex-guards.
    We had a brief conversation before parting company and I went looking for the visitor mooring he had just left.
    Bastards!
    A rib beat me to it!
    Yes I know a rib doesn’t need deep water and there was another smaller rib waiting to take him off.
    I reckon it was a holidaymaker down from Dublin (they all drive ribs, you’d spot them a mile away) using it as their own private mooring.
    Yes, I know he’s a visitor but not the type of visitor the moorings are meant for.
    Anyway I had to anchor.
    Some French yachts came in shortly afterwards and I was wondering where they anchored.
    They didn’t!!
    They just picked up some vacant private moorings. You couldn’t be up to them.
    The owners might come back, they might be only for small boats etc etc!!
    Anyway we have a lot of French boats in Crook tonight. I wonder do they plan on smuggling Ian Bailey back to France??
    I ate ashore as I’m down to packets and tins and anyway I hadn’t had to pay for moorings or food yet and only the odd pint had passed my lips so I felt entitled to splash out!
    Had the obligatory pint in ‘O’Sullivan’s’ and I was back onboard by 20.00.
    Nearly time for the leaba. (Irish =bed) and it’s not even 22.00.
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  • Day 6

    Wet, wet, wet!

    July 22, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A lazy start this morning listening to the French boats departing as I lay in bed.
    When I got up I was looking east which was bright and even a bit sunny but west was dark and ominous.
    I got the anchor up at 10.20, hoisted the main and headed out.
    Once past the. Alderman Rocks I headed west into the gloom for the Mizen on a beat.
    I rounded it at 13.00 and then headed north for Bantry Bay with the wind behind me.
    Slowly the visibility decreased till I could no longer see a yacht that had being following me about two miles behind.
    The mist had arrived and it was of the very wet variety.
    By the time I reach Lawrence Cove on Bere Ireland I was soaked.
    As instructed I came in alongside John McAleer’s Hallberg 36 and Rachel the marina manager helped me tie up.
    John bought my first boat from me way back in 1997/8.
    I only found out last year on a visit to the island that it was his boat.
    It’s a small world!
    The marina is full with refugees of the wind and there is only a few spaces left to raft up before we go three deep.
    Off came the wet gear and on went the dinner. I’ve finished the bread so there was no sandwiches for lunch and I was hungry.
    I couldn’t get a signal on the tv so watched a dvd as I ate.
    I’m stuck here till at least Monday as this weather front moves in .
    I have the bimini up to do it’s usual Irish job, keeping the rain off. Luckily it has stopped for a while but there is very heavy rain due overnight but at least I’ll be sleeping and it’ll be gone by tomorrow when it be falling down on my friends and relations in Cobh.
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  • Day 9

    I found the wind!

    July 25, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Yesterday the rain was mainly in the morning so I was able to get off the boat and get a walk in during the afternoon.
    There was a good few in the pub watching the All Ireland final but I continued on to Fort Berehaven where I ignored the ‘No Trespassing’ signs and went exploring places we had wandered when we were kids.
    The flagpole where the Union Jack 🇬🇧 came down on the 26th of September 1938 and the tricolour 🇮🇪 went up was photographed just in case it wouldn’t be there the next time I visit.
    Unfortunately this part of the fort is in decay unless someone does something about it shortly.
    Anyway I wandered back to Eureka and settled in for the night.

    Today I spent the morning chilling out on Eureka and planning where I was going next.
    I decided to go up to Bantry, do some shopping and then head the short distance to Whiddy island for the night but now having talked to another couple on another yacht I am wondering should I go to Castletownbere to provision and then head south to Kitchen Cove in Dunmanus Bay.
    Or will I go across to Trafrask for the night and call in to CTB on the way to Kitchen Cove?
    Or will I just forget provisioning till Schull.
    I have enough food for a few days so I won’t starve, just have a lack of choice.
    Answers on a text please 😉
    I’ll decide in the morning 😎
    Anyway I fixed up with the marina so I can leave before opening time.
    I went for another walk, this one meaning a bit of a climb to a Martello Tower on top of a hill.
    I had just got to the top when I saw I was being followed by a woman.
    It turned out she was a Californian but knew the island better than I did.
    Her grandfather was from the island and she spent most summers here so not your typically American and her maiden name was O’Sullivan!
    Her brother had got married on the island on Saturday so their roots run deep.
    We parted company in the village and I wandered back to Eureka for dinner.

    Two yachts left about midday and as I was walking up the hill I had a view of the bay and it seemed calm and I was kicking myself for not going but by the time I reached the top I could hardly stand with the strength of the wind.
    It’s nice when you’re decisions are proved right 😂

    It’s a lovely evening here and I opened a bottle of wine 🍷 and have started a good book while Johnny Creedon is warbling along on the radio.
    Almost perfect.

    Left or right for Gibraltar, eh Tony 😎
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  • Day 10

    Peace & Quiet

    July 26, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    What was the plan today?
    I can’t remember 😂
    Needed the alarm to wake me up. Had a great sleep and I was ready to go at 08.50. It wasn’t very sunny but it was warm.
    I decided to turn left which brought me to Castletownbere where I tied to a visitor mooring and went ashore in the dinghy.
    On the spur of the moment I decided to have breakfast served up to me rather than waiting till I got back onboard.
    After licking my lips I headed to the supermarket to stock up for another few day and then headed back.
    I slipped away from the mooring under sail and back up Berehaven,the way I had come. This time I kept going with the gentle wind pushing me along at about 3 knots.
    I wasn’t going far and was enjoying the voyage.
    I picked up a visitor mooring in Trafrask, a small picturesque inlet surrounded on one side by a few holiday homes and a small slip just east of Agrigole.
    Dinner was accompanied by another glass of wine. Somehow it always tastes nicer at sea.
    So I don’t think I’ll bother going ashore, instead I’ll sit here, rocking gentle and read my book.
    I might just have another glass . . . .🤪
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  • Day 11

    Beautiful anchorage

    July 27, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    I left Trafrask in full wet gear, boots and all.
    There had been rain earlier but later it was only a light shower every now and then.
    Winds were light but engine was off to spare the pocket.
    I had a nice sail goose-winged down Bantry Bay doing about 2.5-3.0 knots.
    This was relaxed sailing ⛵️
    Unfortunately it didn’t last and I had to run the engine for about half an hour.
    The wet gear had been put back in the locker by this stage.
    As I approached Sheeps Head someone paid the bill and the wind was turned on and I had a nice reach for the last few miles to Sheeps Head.
    A small French yacht passed me heading in the opposite direction, so close that that I could have shouted at him but I wouldn’t have understood the reply as I have no French.
    Just before I rounded the head I spotted ‘Holy Grounder’ heading towards me. Too far to shout but I’m sure at that distance I’d have heard Eddie reply anyway.
    I rounding the head at 13.43 and entered Dunmanus Bay for the first time and I had a nice beat up to Kitchen Cove, dropping the sails off the harbour.
    I dropped the hook and it dug in well so I can sleep 💤 tonight.
    It look like a lovely spot. Might stay a second night and explore ashore.
    There’s even a pub overlooking the anchorage and it’s very tempting 😎
    To be continued. . .

    Well it didn’t take long!
    To get ashore I mean, and found a nice small landing pontoon inside the pier which of course led to the pub.
    The attached photo tells the rest 😂

    I had only the one, I swear!!
    It got a bit chilly so I didn’t bother with a second and instead went back to Eureka and had the dinner.
    Found a wine bottle with two glasses left in it and you know what happens when air gets in ?
    Glug glug.
    Right do I stay put tomorrow or keep going?? Decisions, decisions 😳
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