• Sam Firman
august 2025

Camino Portuguese 2025

August 2025 I’ll be walking the Camino Portuguese, similar to our 2024 family trip, but this time I’m hitting the trail solo. My route will start in Porto, Portugal winding north to Santiago de Compostela, Spain, covering just shy of 300kms. Les mer
  • Reisens start
    9. august 2025

    Failure to Launch

    9.–10. aug., Canada ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    It was going so well! Arrived in Montreal with a small 15 minute delay from Toronto, got on the connecting flight a little after the 10pm departure time… and then sat on the tarmac until 1:30am. We had to deplane so they could fix a mechanical issue - all good - and then back on the plane for 3ish. I was VERY glad I had a snack in Toronto; all that was on offer was one lousy vending machine with lacklustre snacks. Anyway, back on the plane. Taxied into position and then…. more sitting. MORE mechanical issues. So, back off the plane again and now I’m resting on a Marriott couch in the airport while I wait for restaurants to open and for my new 7pm flight. I hope.

    Times like these I’m glad that I’ve worked in the service/hospitality sector and know that the staff want things to go smoothly just as much as the customers do. Some folks are getting RILED! Honestly, I don’t see the point. So I’ll chat up the Marriott staff for a day room when they become available at 10am and enjoy my $30 food voucher. That snack was ages ago now!
    Les mer

  • Porto: Finally!

    11. august, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Finally! Landed in Porto at 6:30am local time, had my first coffee and now to set off for a light 10kms to Matosinhos where I’ll explore and stay overnight. I was going to explore more of Porto today, but I’ll save that for the end of the trip when I return to the area.Les mer

  • Day 1 - Porto to Matosinhos

    11. august, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was a beauty of the day! The weather was cooler ranging between 17 and 24° with the most amazing breeze coming up off the ocean. I walked out of Porto and over to Matosinhos, along the ocean and through groups of tourists enjoying the beach. I saw more than one topless lady and I love how body positive the Europeans are! I wish North America could just be a little bit more like that.

    I met up with a girl named Rachel and walked with her for about 6 km. Her reason for doing the Camino was to come to a decision on career next steps and whether she wants to move out of Portugal to pursue a higher paycheck. When she asked me why I was walking… well… I need to work on my reason. Maybe I’ll be able to articulate it better once I reach Santiago.

    First of many hostel sleeps tonight, and it’s gonna be an early one! It’s 7pm and I wiped! G’night! 😘
    Les mer

  • Day 2 - Matosinhos to Vila do Conde

    12. august, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Walked 24ish kilometres today from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde. I met up with Mary at lunch and we walked the rest of the way together. I took my chances with my first attempt at walk-up, no reservations allowed, accommodation today and SUCCESS! For just €10 this hostel is super clean and I have everything I need, including the bottom bunk! Best amenity this place has is a cold water machine in the kitchen - heaven after a long walk!

    A group of us went out for dinner at the restaurant next door: 5 Italians, 2 Brits and me… I identify as Canadian 😜🇨🇦. This one large, hippie, long-haired, ex-military, works in humanitarian emergency, fresh out of 10 months doing work in Gaza, going on a ‘medicinal plant retreat’ after the Camino, dude was super interesting to speak with… and he’s doing his Camino on a skateboard! 🤯 I love hearing everyone’s stories - just so much variety out there!

    Until tomorrow… good night! 😘
    Les mer

  • Day 3 - Vila Do Conde to Esposende

    13. august, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Part 1 of 2

    23kms today, the majority of it solo - so nice! Most of the walk today was on boardwalks, some on cobbles and the rest through towns. I was definitely ready to be done with the boardwalks so I’m relieved that portion of the walk is over.

    My hostal today had a glorious pool that was sooo nice to dunk in after a long, sweaty walk. I met some really cool people: Andre (Italy), Lee (Texas, USA), Hannah (Germany), and Rhys (Australia)… all in their 20’s. We decided on a menu and Rhys biked to the local Lidl grocery store and we made dinner together - I was Head Chef, naturally, but they were all fantastic sous chefs and we chatted and ate until way past our Camino bedtimes. Poor Andre is so stressed about accommodation tomorrow so we’re all going to walk together so he’s supported. We have a back pocket Albergue that I know has availability so I know it’ll all work out. Rhys already completed the French Way and is now winding his way down to Porto, travelling by bus, and trying to find a boyfriend along the way (Tay, if Ethan is free, they’re be a great match!)

    Part 2 to come…
    Les mer

  • Day 3 - Vila Do Conde to Esposende

    13. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Part 2 of 2

    I had a good cry at this tree. There were a handful of Pilgrims there when I arrived, but they soon went on their way leaving only GG from Croatia, but she picked up on the vibe and quietly left. I met up with her later and neither of us talked about it.

    Fundamentally changed.
    Les mer

  • Day 4 - Esposende to Viana do Castelo

    14. august, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    27ish kms today. This morning we left Rhys sleeping and Lee, Hannah, Andrea (AKA Andre), and I headed out into the sunrise to start our walk. Quickly, Hannah decided to go solo at her own pace and not too long later, Lee was having some foot pain and decided to stop her Camino. So, Andrea and I were buddies for the day, picking up Giovanni and ‘The Californians’ along the way.

    Some new terrain today with the trail moving inland to some forested paths and quite a bit of ‘up’ to climb. We walked across a long, high bridge that gave Andrea and I a heart attack- him for the height, me for the cars whizzing by.

    No trouble getting into the hostal today but things are definitely getting busier. Tonight’s accommodation is an old convent/church, that’s been around since 1621. Andrea and I went for a Pilgrimage menu dinner today where we talked all things, but mostly about his love interest and his mom’s amazing Italian cooking. (Darryl, he said that he’ll make us tiramisu when he visits Canada so we (you) better wrap up those renos!)

    A long day ahead tomorrow - further than I want to go - but walk up accommodation is our only option. Eeek! I’ll pray on it from my convent bed.
    Les mer

  • Day 5 - Viana do Costelo to A Guarda

    15. august, Spania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Well that was an adventure!

    Andre and I left the convent at 6:30ish as the town was preparing for their Holiday in celebration of Ascension, a Catholic holiday. We decided to head towards the Litoral route that follows the coast instead of sticking to the main ‘Coastal’ route. It was a beautiful decision with lots of misty views, cool temperatures and more nature trails rather than roads.

    Today was expected to be a long day, but BOY I had no idea how long it’d be! We were having trouble booking accommodation in advance and were trying to make it to the Public hostel in Caminha that’s first come, first serve but as we got about an hour out (or 26kms in), we learned that they were out of beds. New plan… cross the river into Spain to A Guarda and get a bed in their public hostel… unfortunately they only had one bed. The reception at the hostel told me that I’d be taking a taxi with three Spanish guys to go camping. Uhhhhh… okayyy… so, I hoped in the taxi - photographing my potential murderer along the way (just kidding, everyone was lovely), only to find out that the Spanish guys’ cabin only fit three. No worries though because the campground reception angel hooked me up with my very own private tent, compete with mattress - it’s the greatest!

    I’m still searching for accommodation for tomorrow so wish me luck! In the meantime I’m gearing up for my best sleep yet! I 🩷 camping!
    Les mer

  • Day 6 - A Guarda to Mougas

    16. august, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The adventure continues!

    Woke up this morning refreshed after my tent sleep and made the 45 minute walk back into A Guarda to meet up with Andre. There, he introduced me to Giovanni. The three of us went merrily along all with different accommodations booked for today - I loved the camping so much that I booked the next campground 25ish kms along the road! This time I knew that I’d be the first in a room of 4 or 5 other walkers. Giovanni and André taught me all kinds of Italian things, especially all of the Italian foods that there are to enjoy, and singing some Italian songs along the way.

    About half way we saw the Californians again (Arielle Silver - check her out on Spotify - and her partner, Darby), and shortly afterwards the three Spanish guys from yesterday’s camping taxi: Alex, Mike and Herbert… I think… I need to confirm that last name. Anyway, found out that those three guys were going to be my camping roomies! All six of us stuck together for the rest of the day, and we had the best lunch splitting a bunch of Spanish tapas and dessert, finishing it up with a round of shots!

    When we got to the camping spot, we checked in and the Spanish guys asked me if I wanted to go with them in a taxi to some nearby waterfalls, but I let them go thinking that I’d get rest and enjoy the campground. Instead, I was recruited by the camping staff to judge a food competition that the campers had participated in. Plates upon plates of food came out, and myself, and three other judges were asked to judge on presentation and taste. Best free dinner I’ve ever had!

    I’m ending the day out beside the pool that overlooks the ocean, all for €20. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!
    Les mer

  • Day 7 - Mougas to Ramallosa

    17. august, Spania ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    As close to a day off as it gets.

    An easy breezy 16km walk today. Andre and Giovanna met me at my Campground to start the day off there with breakfast. Today’s walk took us up hills, through forest trails and into some really picturesque towns. We grabbed some groceries along the way and checked into our accommodations - tonight I’m staying solo at what will be my splurge on lodging, but a steal by Canadian standards!

    I enjoyed my picnic dinner on a rock bench and table that must be hundreds of years old, took a nap, and then, on a whim while grabbing my laundry from the line, found myself walking into Ramallosa only to stumble across a craft beer festival, complete with food trucks, vendors, a band, and a gorgeous sunset.

    The quiet day was a nice change of pace… and I think my feet liked it too.
    Les mer

  • Day 8 - Ramallosa to Vigo

    18. august, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A bit of a shaky start this morning. I was so comfortable and it was so quiet in my solo hotel room that I completely slept through my alarm! Giovanni, Andre and I were supposed to meet up at a cafe to walk together but that plan got busted and we all ended up making our way to Vigo individually.

    I set off - no caffeine in my system - thinking that I could still make good time… there was a bit of a rush today because we had decided to stay in the Municipal Albergue that are first come, first serve. 20ish kms to cover today which I expected to take about 5 1/2 hours, 7 with breaks and lunch. After walking 5kms I realized that I hadn’t seen a sign in a beat - I looked at the map and it was easy to get back on the trail… imagine my surprise when a couple of turns later I walked right on by my hotel from last night!! Honestly! All I could do was laugh to myself and start right back at square one again, 70 minutes into walking with an already late start. Bananas! I cheated a little bit and used Google maps to gain back some time instead of following the sometimes meandering Camino trail. All in all, I made fantastic time and joined Giovanni and Andre in the line for the hostel and we all got beds together.

    Vigo has a great vibe with lots of lovely restaurants to choose from. We met up with Flo and the Czech Republic girl (wish I could remember her name), for dinner and ate delicious a feast of octopus, peppers, sardines, hummus - so SO good. Finished it off with gelato, which of course my Italian friends were very skeptical of (only Italians make REAL gelato), but we were in luck when the server started speaking Italian… approved! I think we could’ve stayed out later tonight but the 10pm albergue curfew has us in bed instead.

    Tomorrow, another easy 20kms… hopefully without any detours!
    Les mer

  • Day 9 - Vigo to Arcade

    19. august, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A beautiful day to wander. This morning, Andre, Giovanna and I set off from Vigo stopping at a lovely cafe in the square for tostadas y tomates and cafe con leche for breakfast. Vigo is a bigger city and getting out of the city was long and not that interesting. Just as we made it out, Andre realized that he’d forgotten his Nonna’s camera in the Lidl grocery store and had to quickly leave us to catch a bus and get it (spoiler alert: he wasn’t able to find it).

    Giovanna and I carried on up so many steep hills, taking in the views and stopping at the most beautiful coffee shop along the way. It was nice to have some 1:1 time and we swapped many stories. Time and friendships are different on the Camino - with such low risk it’s very easy to have big conversations and be vulnerable with people you’ve known for only days. And those days feel like years.

    We met Flo and Andre in Pontevedra for a snack and drink and had much too long of a break. Very hard to get going again for another two hours… but we did. The hostel tonight is okay. It does have a pool, so that’s nice but it definitely isn’t our best spot. We shared a grocery store dinner on a bench of bread, pancetta, cheese, tomatoes, purple peaches, chips and mango - so simple, so yummy.
    Les mer

  • Day 10 - Arcade to A Portela

    20. august, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we saw more pilgrims than ever before in the trail. People must walk at least 100,000 kms to qualify for the certificate of completion of the Camino and we’re now at that point. Andre and Fu picked Giovanna and I up at our hostel and the four of us walked together to Pontevedre where we dropped off the boys, continuing on for another 10kms.

    Tonight we’re staying at our first (and only) donitivo where we paid for our stay and dinner and breakfast are provided for a donation. The dinner is served family style and started with a beautiful speech about the Camino bringing us all together as one. Beer and wine were flowing. New characters in our Camino story are Alessandro, Frederico, Noah, Maria, and Julia. Conversations got very philosophical and I hope that Julia publishes her ‘book of love’. She’s asked each Pilgrim three questions on her travels:
    1. What is love to you?
    2. What do you like about the Camino?
    3. Answer the question asked by the person before you and ask a question of a future person.

    I wish there were more places like this - so much fun!
    Les mer

  • Day 11 - A Portela to Caldas de Reis

    21. august, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    An easy breezy 2 1/2 hour walk for Giovanna and I to Caldas de Reis today. It’s so noticeable how many walkers have joined in - not sure I respect the last 100k km folks with their small backpacks and the crowds that they bring. Despite that, a nice walk into the town through forested trails and past grape vines.

    We grabbed some fresh peaches from the local grocer and meat/fish pies from a small bakery and had a park bench lunch after checking into the hostel. Caldas de Reis is famous for having thermal springs and we dipped our feet into the fountain - felt SO nice! With our early arrival we paid for access to the hotel pool across the street from the hostel and relaxed for most of the afternoon, grabbing a late dinner of kebab afterwards.

    The good times seem to be getting later as we try to really stretch out the last few days on the Camino and we met up with some new Italian guys to end our our night: Luigi, Daved annndd… there’s always one name that escapes me… I remember that is was a typical Italian name though. And Nick, the UK transplant to Italy.

    Some mixed emotions as the end gets closer for sure.
    Les mer

  • Day 12 - Caldas de Reis to Padrón

    22. august, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    20 beautiful kilometres today and 5 really ugly, hot ones 😅

    We set off from Caldas a little after 9am, stopping at a cute bakery before heading out for the day. Most of the walk was through shady trails, wide enough for the three of us to walk side by side. We were quiet at first but got chatting covering all of the important topics: Italian swear words, love interests, getting to know people, Giovanna’s plans for Santiago…

    In Padrón we stopped for Mexican food of all things and picked up groceries for dinner.

    The last 5kms of the day were awful! On hot asphalt, during the warmest part of the day, along industrial roads - honestly took forever! The hostel (the Jesus place), is gorgeous though and cooling off in the pool felt incredible! We finished the night with some Italian tarot card reading with plans for a sunrise walk into Santiago tomorrow.
    Les mer

  • Day 13 - Padrón to Santiago

    23. august, Spania ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We did it! We woke in the dark for our last stage of walking on the Camino, and watched the sun rise as we made our way up the many hills before Santiago de Compostela. I felt everything today - it’s been a wildly emotional journey these past 12 days and making the last walk was such a surreal feeling.

    Overwhelmingly, I’m proud of the accomplishment of walking, this past year, my body… my body is amazing! Sure I’ve judged it for being the complete opposite: for being rolly and wrinkly, but it’s carried me to the finish line and through 5 incredible pregnancies. I don’t give it enough credit. Watching people arrive to Santiago is beautiful to witness - some people are crying, some celebrating and cheering, others just taking it all in.

    I’ll continue to process this journey, but for now I know that “sono pieno d'amore”
    Les mer

  • Santiago de Compostela

    25. august, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    My watch tells me that I walked 20kms around the town yesterday - guess I missed it!

    Yesterday was full of tearful ‘see you soons’ as Andre got on a bus in the morning; Giovanna in the evening. So strange to be so connected to people when you’ve only known each other for less than two weeks but I suppose that’s what comes with being your most open self on the Camino.

    Giovanna and I were lucky enough to get an inside tip from Adéle and attended the noon mass where they lit the Botafumeiro. The Boyafumeiro has swung since the Middle Ages to cleanse the air when pilgrims arrived after their long Camino de Santiago journey but is only scheduled a dozen times a year unless a special group makes an arrangement. That’s what happened yesterday and we were thrilled to catch it.
    Les mer

  • Begin Again - Back to Porto

    26.–28. aug., Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    On Tuesday I travelled from Santiago back to where it all began: Porto, and met up with my Mum! We spent the last couple of days walking around town, stopping if something caught our attention, taking in some tourist attractions and retracing my first day on the Camino… well most of it anyway.

    We’ve visited a market, cruised on the Duoro river to see the five bridges, watched street performers, rode an old-timey tram, enjoyed helado, taken in a port tour and fado show, walked around an old fort and the Porto Cathedral where I got my Camino credential just over two weeks ago… feels like a lifetime!

    Tomorrow I go back home with a full backpack and an even fuller heart ❤️
    Les mer

    Reisens slutt
    28. august 2025