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Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
  • Jane Robinson
  • Mark Sharp

Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

This is Jane and Mark's sabbatical blog. We're spending a month cycling the Camino Frances in Spain. Then we're off to Jordan - Dubai - India - Bhutan (two wheels by motorbike to the Tiger's Nest) - Thailand - Malaysia - Singapore. Back for Xmas. Read more
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  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 53 - Delhi and Agra

    October 30, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Our arrival in Delhi was a bit of a challenge after Dubai. Spent the first 40mins running around the airport trying to change some money while fending off continuous calls from our taxi driver; and our hotel certainly didn't live up to the 9.0 score on Booking.com. Also, our plan to leave our motorcycle gear at the airport left luggage didn't work out, and we weren't comfortable leaving it at our current hotel. So, we needed a Plan C... Eventually decided to book two nights at the Radisson Blu for a week's time and took our gear over this morning to the left luggage there. Costs a bit more but gives us a relaxing day before heading to Bhutan.
    After splashing out on a nice breakfast there, we caught an Uber to Hazrat Nizamuddin station to catch the train the Agra. Another new experience ... always nice to be given a flower, paper and free drinks on board!
    Mugged by hundreds of taxi and tuk-tuk drivers when we exited Agra Station but managed to escape the crowds and ordered an Uber (with a guaranteed price).
    Tonight's hotel seems much better so far..    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 54 - Taj Mahal and Agra Fort

    October 31, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We got up early today (06:15) in order to see the Taj Mahal when it was quieter. Not quite as early as some (5:30) but it was worth it. Good experience and not too busy - see photos.
    After a return to the hotel for breakfast and a planning session for the next couple of days we then braved a tuk tuk ride to Agra Fort. A few close calls on the road but near misses are fairly standard over here. Agra Fort was good. Home to the person who built the Taj Mahal. Really not sure what it would do for your mental health to have that momento mori within easy sight all day.Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 55 - Ranthambore National Park

    November 1, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Left the Coral House Homestay this morning. Much nicer than our first hotel in Delhi. Particularly liked the communal home cooked dinner and sitting on the rooftop listening to the live music from the Taj Festival.
    Most of the day has been a 5hr taxi ride to Ranthambore NP. We thought the time might drag but there was plenty to see as our taxi driver weaved his way through the manic traffic, stopping for nothing (like everyone else). See photos for the rickshaws laden with people and goods (incl. the man impressively pedalling 3 huge bales of material and the motorbike carrying a ridiculous number of pots and pans), whole families on one motorbike, traffic heading the wrong way, some dodgy health and safety practices, and cows everywhere. Somehow it all seemed to work and we arrived in one piece.
    We're now staying at a very nice colonial style hotel. Had a go at pottery earlier and going stargazing tonight.
    *Update: Saw the bands of storms on Jupiter, Saturn and its rings, the craters on the Moon and the Sea of Tranquility, and the Andromeda galaxy.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 56 - Tiger Safari

    November 2, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We have spent today in an open-top safari bus looking at the local wildlife. It’s been a long day (up with the sun and in the park till sunset - 3 hrs each). We covered two different areas of the park - unfortunately neither had a tiger present when we were there. We did see other things though:
    - lots of deer (Sambar and Spotted deer);
    - antelope;
    - several crocodiles (very big - circa 12 feet);
    - mongoose;
    - water hogs;
    - peacocks;
    - large egrets, herons, storks, partridges, pond heron, a kingfisher, and lots of little brown birds; and
    - banyan trees (with the roots reaching down from the branches).
    Today was women's day at the temple just outside the National Park Gate, after two days of fasting(!), so there were hundreds of women walking several miles along the access road. There seemed to be quite a party atmosphere.

    To make up for the lack of tigers we have had outfits tailor made (Mark’s whilst we were in the park). Mark's has got tigers on it!

    Hopefully a bit more of a lie in tomorrow as we have some more early mornings scheduled for the next few days.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
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    Day 57 - Jaipur

    November 3, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    We enjoyed our two nights of 'luxury' at the Ranthambore Regency Hotel.
    Collected my 'made to measure' top after breakfast (ordered it at 18:00 the evening before and it was ready at 10:00!). Then caught a taxi to Jaipur (3 hrs).
    This afternoon we caught a tuk tuk to see the Palace of the Winds, and to explore the city.
    Tonight we are staying at a homestay. The host is having a pre-Dewali celebration with about 30 people, and invited us to join them. It's 23:30 and there are still at least five more courses to come, including the main course!
    01:00 - just finished dessert. We've gone to bed but everyone else is playing cards for another few hours. We were invited to join them but it looked a serious business and there was a risk of losing lots of money!    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 58 - Jaipur

    November 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It’s been a busy day today in India. We had a car and driver all day and they took us all around the local sights (not reachable by walking). These included:

    Royal cemetery - a lot of this is actually pretty new with a couple of tombs from the 1900’s. They still have a thriving stone masonry industry here and you can see it next to a lot of the roads in new buildings et al.

    Amber fort - really busy but super interesting. This place was a closed royal palace for the king and his wives until independence.

    Stepped well - fairly out of the way of the normal tourist routes. This was a short walk from the Amber fort but is largely unknown.

    Monkey temple - the only place where my camera has ever needed a ticket. Also a ticket that is 150% of my ticket price! It was notable that whilst there we had rain (about the first shower we have seen for weeks). Luckily it stopped fairly quickly.

    Patrika gate - this was a quick stop on the way back for some photos of an interesting park.

    Left feeling a bit exhausted tonight following a full day of beeping and crazy driving. Also we are finding it hard to love India due to the rubbish everywhere, the constant heckling and the behaviours that we are seeing.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 59 - Jaipur

    November 5, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A very early stat this morning for our 06:00 bike tour around the back streets of Jaipur to see how the locals live. It was a packed three hours involving feeding the cows, laughing yoga in the park (apparently it's very good for you, or maybe it's just a way of laughing at the tourists), a visit to main Hindu temple for some enthusiastic clapping and chanting, a walk around the vegetable and flower markets, a look inside an abandoned havelli (an old style grand house) - our guide was an architect and had plans to restore it, and a wander down utensil alley to watch the various craftsmen at work. We also stopped for various roadside drinks and snacks on the way. Despite all the rubbish, there are some initiatives here to reduce single use plastics. Instead of plastic cups lots of places use one-time-use pottery mugs which you then smash into a bin after using. This helps support the pottery industry and the broken pots decompose or can easily be recycled into something else. Cycling through the traffic was a bit intimidating to start with but we soon got the hang of weaving our way through, with our 'minder' making sure no-one ran into the back of us. Really enjoyed the tour!
    We were back at the homestay in time for a late breakfast, then headed back into the old city to visit Jantar Mantar. This has the world's largest sundial and lots of other large astronomical instruments - all constructed in the 1700s!
    After that we went to the World Trade Park, a modern western-style shopping mall on the outskirts of Jaipur, to buy some warm clothes for Bhutan. This was a world away from the rest of Jaipur and really highlighted the difference between the rich and the poor in India.
    All round, it's been a good but tiring day.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
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    Day 60 - New Delhi

    November 6, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    A big day in the car today to get back to New Delhi - around 5 hours. As ever the stuff that you see on the roads is astonishing here. Today’s highlights were a man clinging onto the back of a minibus at 50mph (how he stayed on given how bumpy the road was I don’t know) and roughly 12 sari-clad women in a single tuk tuk.
    We’ve now arrived at the Radisson Blu by the airport and are in one of the business enclaves for dinner (AeroCity is home to the likes of pwc, kpmg, accenture, etc, with restaurant prices to match)*. It will be nice not to be handed (with fingers) your food before you eat it here (hopefully).
    Travelling through India we are obviously a novelty. For the second time we had our photos taken by an Indian family as our skin colour was different! The local population outside of the tourist areas also treat us with a huge level of deference which can make you feel a bit odd. Walking into the washrooms at one of rest stops I (J) was confronted by 30+ women in saris who had just got off a coach. I was expecting to be waiting for hours but they ushered me straight to the front!
    Passed the Atkins and Cap Gemini offices on the way into Delhi. They are in adjacent office blocks!

    *OK. Important point for anyone ordering beer in India. A pint is 330ml here and is taxed really heavily. Our misunderstanding of that point just saddled us with a £36 bar bill for 3.5 pints. Going back teetotal tomorrow! £10 a pint!    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 61 - New Delhi

    November 7, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Relaxing 'day off' today making the most of our 'posh' hotel near the airport.
    Lots on the news about the air quality in Delhi, which has hit the 'severe' category for the fifth day running. The visibility is very poor and you can taste the pollution. It's caused by a mix of vehicle emissions, stubble burning, and calm weather. After Diwali (10 Nov) an 'odd-even' system will be introduced whereby car registrations with an 'odd' number plate can drive on 'odd' dates and those with an 'even' number plate can drive on 'even' dates. Schools will also be closed for a few days.Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 62 - Off to Bhutan

    November 8, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Off to Bhutan today. We won't have mobile data and don't know whether we will have Wi-Fi, so may not be able to upload the blog.

    Update. Bhutan is far more advanced than first thought. We have internet at the hotel and a mobile sim with 8.5 gb of data that cost £6. The bikes are here (Royal Enfield Himalayas) and we have taken them out for a bit of a shakedown run. All working fine and looking forwards to the first real run tomorrow. The culture here is massively different (no beeping, pushy sales people or barging) and the air is so clean. Had a good view of the Himalayas on approach to Paro although the landing was hairy. You have to gradually circle down inside a valley before straightening up for final approach about 100m altitude.
    The airport terminal at Paro is amazing (see photos) - more like a palace than an airport terminal!
    There are just 4 of us on the tour - us + John and Jim from Alderney (where motorcycling involves a figure of 8 around the island).    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 63 - Paro and Thimphu

    November 9, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Bhutan is a breath of fresh air (literally) after India. Everything is very orderly and the buildings are all beautiful with intricate artwork. Motorcycled to Thimphu this morning - first heading up the valley to get used to the bike, and then along the main road to the capital (population 200,000). There's only one crossroads in Thimphu, Instead of traffic lights there is a man in uniform and white gloves in the middle very 'gracefully' controlling the traffic.
    After lunch at the hotel, we went to see one of the largest Buddha statues in Asia (with another 100,000+ Buddha's inside), and then to see the Bhutan's national animal - the taxin (a cross between a goat and a cow). Finished the afternoon with a wander around the shops in Thimphu.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 64 - Punakha

    November 10, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A 10:30 start today on the bikes meant that we had the chance to explore a bit more of Thimphu and importantly send our postcards (some of which we have been carrying since Dubai!).
    Back on the bikes we climbed up to a chilly 3200m for lunch (in the Royal Botanical Park) before then descending 2000m to the plains (twisty roads and prayer flags all the way). It’s much warmer down here and we were starting to overheat as we reached the hotel. Mark’s bike is having some work done in the morning as the clutch can stick and when it does can take off abruptly and cause a loud screeching noise. Today was finished off with a trip to the fortified castle/ monastery (Punakha Dzong) before coming back to the hotel.Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 65 - Gelephu

    November 11, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Big riding day today, 190km from Punakha to Gelephu on the Indian border. The national speed limit is 50km/hr and the roads are very twisty so it took most of the day. In general the roads have been very good, but today they got narrower and parts of the road had collapsed or the tarmac was missing! Our off-road riding skills are improving but we were still caught out by some big pot holes, chickens running across the road and cows refusing to move. The scenery has been amazing all day. It's gradually got more jungle-like as we headed south. We were surprised to see monkeys at the side of road (golden langur) and warnings about elephants crossing. It feels a poorer area and there are fewer people wearing national dress. There are proposals to build an IT mega-city here but it's very controversial.Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 66 - Panbang (Manas National Park)

    November 12, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A long motorcycle day today. About 160km through the jungle. It has been hot - all vents open on the motorcycle clothes and wearing mountain bike rather than motorcycle gloves. We have had some significant sections of the road which has been washed away and we’ve had to go properly off road. We’ve not done anything like that before but it’s been fun.
    Saw some wild bee hives hanging from a rock, and lots of golden langur monkeys.
    Just arrived at the overnight accommodation. It’s a tent with a slightly grim separate toilet block. Not many people come here so everything is a bit more basic. Tomorrow it is back to civilisation and via a bird ‘fair’    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
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    Day 67 - Tongsa

    November 13, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Another great day of motorcycling with some fantastic scenery all the way and more chances to practice our off-road skills. Our overnight stop was in a remote part of Bhutan with only one road in and out. So, we started by retracing yesterday's route for 80kms back to Tingtinbi where there was a local festival going on. Not many tourists visit this area so we were a bit of a novelty. We were given white scarfs to welcome us and encouraged to try some traditional outfits from North Bhutan - much to everyone's amusement. Also looked around the local craft stalls.
    We're now back up at 2,200m so it's much cooler again. Staying in a nice hotel which is welcomed after last nights tent in the jungle. The major hazard today has been cows on the road (calves) which have run all over the road. One was weaving left and right for a couple of hundred metres. Eventually we overtook him!    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 68 - Phobjikha

    November 14, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    A slightly shorter day today on the bikes broken up with a visit to Tongsa Dzong (fortified monastery). We arrived in good time to see some of the black necked cranes (which migrate here every winter from Siberia) including a couple that were being treated for injuries*. Also saw some yaks on the way. It’s very cold here after the heat of the last 3 days. The hotel has a nice wood fire on the go and we even have a wood stove in the room!
    *We're staying in a Ramsar Conservation Area. There was no electricity in the valley until 2008, as they didn't want to disturb the cranes.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 69 - Paro

    November 15, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Last proper day of motorcycling today, 170km all the way back to Paro. It was 3 degrees and frosty first thing, and took a while to warm up. There are some great road safety signs in Bhutan, which have kept us amused on the trip. Favourites include:
    - "No hurry, no worry"
    - "Mountains are a pleasure only if you drive with leisure"
    - "Going faster causes disaster"    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 70 - The Tiger's Nest

    November 16, 2023 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We made the Tiger's Nest today after some hard climbing. About 600m of ascent and descent at an altitude of 3100m plus. All of our group made it including one chap due to reach his 70th birthday in the next couple of months. The monastery was set in glorious scenery and we couldn’t have wished for better weather - about 3 degrees in the morning leading to about 19 degrees (felt hotter) in the afternoon. In the afternoon we took a leisurely stroll around Paro and picked up some good shopping!Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 72 - Bangkok

    November 18, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Another hour ahead of the UK and another country for the blog. We arrived late last night and slept in for a change this morning - only slightly disturbed by the cockerel in the neighbouring block. The morning and some of the afternoon was taken up buying a suitcase and arranging for the shipping of our motorbike gear back to the uk. After a bit of Thailand haggling we got the suitcase and luggage ready to go. £300 down and after a lot of form filling we’ve got everything ready. Headed out this evening to find preparation for tomorrow’s Bangkok marathon in full swing. Most restaurants were understandably busy but due to Jane’s perseverance we eventually ended up in the prime spot tonight!Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 73 - Bangkok

    November 19, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We've spent the day sightseeing in Bangkok. Went to the Grand Palace this morning, which was very impressive with gold everywhere. Apparently the Thai king is one of the wealthiest monarchs in the world!
    There are lots of gold temples to see in Bangkok, but after Bhutan we're keen for a bit of a 'Bhuddha break'. Instead we decided to go on a longtail boat tour on the klongs (canals). I (Jane) did this when I came to Bangkok 25 years ago, and remember really enjoying it. Unfortunately, the price has gone up a lot since then and our 60 mins tour was completed in 35 mins - so a bit of a rip-off all round! We created a bit of a scene when we got back and saved a few other tourists from the same experience, but couldn't do much more.
    We've booked a dinner cruise on the main river tonight so hopefully that will work out ok.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 74 - Train and Floating Markets

    November 20, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A relatively early start today to go to the two famous markets just outside of Bangkok. The train market was slightly unbelievable with stalls present on the tracks until about 1 minute before the train came. The local stall holders were very accomplished at clearing everything and everyone out the way in time (including a couple of suicidal Japanese tourists who were taking selfies in front of the train whilst it was almost on top of them). The floating market was also fun with a lot of souvenirs and waterside shops. We did have to take a hard line with our driver for the day who initially claimed that we had to take a £50 water boat ride to reach the market. Luckily we (Jane) had done our research and knew better. A really good day out - learning to cope with the Thailand negotiations and pushiness now!
    Oh no !!! Just gone into one of the modern shopping centre areas for dinner (via a high speed tuk tuk) and Starbucks is covered in Christmas trees and playing carols. Trying to block it out as we will be back for Christmas!    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 75 - Kanchanaburi

    November 21, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Our hotel in Bangkok has been great - nice room, excellent staff, and 10mins walk from the Grand Palace (all for £44 per night) - so it was a shame to leave.
    Next stop is Kanchanaburi (home of the WWII Death Railway). We caught the local train from Thon Buri station. The tickets cost 100 baht (£2.50) each, for a 2.5hr trip with 'natural' air conditioning - less than our high speed 5km tuk tuk ride last night! We definitely felt like we had travelled when we arrived but it was a good way of seeing the countryside.
    Now staying next to the River Kwai for a few days.j    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest
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    Day 76 - Elephant Haven

    November 22, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today has been very different having spent the day washing and feeding 6 big girls! (Weighing between 2.5 and 4 tonnes each).
    The itinerary in brief was:
    - make up the energy (rice and banana) balls
    - cut about a hundred water melons into quarters
    - feed the elephants
    - walk the elephants
    - nice lunch
    - swim with elephants (trying not to get crushed)
    - feed the elephants more watermelons.
    Definitely one of the best experiences of the sabbatical and one that I would recommend to anyone. The elephants all had different personalities and you really got to know them during the day. We have taken hundreds of pictures and videos today but nothing compares to actually being there in person.
    All of the elephants are retired or rescued animals that were previously used for shows, rides or treks. The place prides itself on behaving ethically and we really saw that during our visit.    Read more

  • Two wheels to the Tiger's Nest

    Day 77 - Thailand-Burma Death Railway

    November 23, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    A very different day today. This morning we got a taxi to the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre, built to commemorate the 60,000 Allied prisoners and thousands of Asian labourers who were forced by the Japanese to build (by hand) the railway in WWII. We walked a section of the line, including Hellfire Pass, which had to be cut through solid rock. The site is very peaceful today but thousands died here in 1943 and 1944 (1 person for every 5 metres)
    The track no longer exists here, so we headed back to Namtok (via Sai Yok Noi waterfall) where we boarded the train for the 2hr trip back to Kanchanaburi. Just before Kanchanaburi is the so called 'Bridge on the River Kwai'. Apparently the film-makers got the wrong river name, so they renamed the river in the 1960s (the original River Kwai runs parallel to the current one)!
    Lots of cannabis plants along the route - only decriminalised in 2022 so the farmers have been busy!    Read more

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