Tanzania Day 18 - Kilimanjaro Day 2

After a good rest and breakfast we set off at 830am for the longest accent day of the trip an 11km climb to Horombo Camp 3700m. The landscape would change during the 6 hour trek from rainforest toRead more
After a good rest and breakfast we set off at 830am for the longest accent day of the trip an 11km climb to Horombo Camp 3700m. The landscape would change during the 6 hour trek from rainforest to moorland, meaning we could catch a glimpse of the peak for the first time (which felt impossibly far away)
We were both taking altitude sickness tablets and neither of us had any problems at this stage. There was a point around 4 hours in just before we stopped for lunch that was a solid hour of steep incline with a completely rocky terrain which I found really hard. A combination of this plus too many layers and a heavy day bag meant I felt terrible by the time we stopped, basically just tired and nausious but it passed after a break. Gem apart from being a little tired was fine at this point!
We finished our day with an easier/flatter 2 hours to Horombo and on arrival to camp were greated by a group of clouds blowing past us at head height and when passed a breathtaking view back down the mountain and across Tanzania.
Again no hassle with altitude so another comfortable, if slightly colder, nights sleep and both feeling ready for the next day!,Read more
Another good night's sleep and no altitude sickness so we slept quite well at Horombo (although noticed the temperature had dropped about 10 degrees from last night).
We set off at around 8am towards Kibo or base camp. The moorland shrubbery soon began to disappear and a more barren landscape materialised with almost moon like qualities! We also began to see clear views of the peak of Kili. It seemed hard to imagine that we had to get to the top of it!
The first 4 hours of the hike were enjoyable and we were making good time. We stopped for lunch about an hour away from Kibo - we could actually see it in the distance. After lunch I began to feel really exhausted and had a head ache. I think the altitude was finally beginning to take its toll (understandably, we were nearly at 4,700m altitude). Luckily Craig was feeling completely fine so was providing all the moral support needed.
William insisted on carrying my day pack for the last 30 minutes and assured me that I wouldn't believe what a difference a little less weight would make... and he was right! We reached Kibo, and the lovely porters and chefs bought all our food to our hut so we didn't have to use any energy unnecessarily!
After dinner we had a briefing from William about the summit which would start at around midnight that very night...Read more
After a cold and disrupted evenings sleep at Kibo Camp 4700m we were awokon at midnight with a hot drink and final pep talk from the guides before we set off for summit! The plan was to take 5 hours to reach Gillmans Point which was going to be the hardest part of the climb and from there 1-2 further hours to summit... Easy!
Gem had been suffering with a light headache whilst trying to sleep but once up and about it passed and I was still unaffected so we both felt confident & a little apprehensive.
Armed with a wardrobes worth of layers, two climbing poles, a headtorch and two amazing, reliable guides, we set off! The term 'pole pole' means slowly slowly in Swahilli and can be heard at least 10 times an hour on summit night. The idea being, any kind of over exersion can lead to shortness of breath which is hard to get back to normal quickly, so everything is done at a snails pace! The sensation of being able to see nothing except the shoes of the person in front for hours on end whilst feeling cold tired and out of breath was so hard. Although for me at around 5300m it was about to get even harder.
I first felt a little sick but hoped it would pass, but after 10 more minutes I had the feeling you get right before being sick but constantly, meaning I was sweating, shaking and having to stop almost every 10 steps. For me after about an hour of this I was struggling and the thoughts of not making it were starting to enter my head. The guides were amazing, made me a hot tea, checked I wasn't actually dieing and insisted that it would pass if I pushed on. And they were right as about 15/20 minutes later I wasnt feeling sick at all but the toughness of the previous 90 minutes had left me running on empty energy wise.
It seemed to be almost instantaneous that once I felt OK, Gem got hit harder - a combination of headache, nausea and exhaustion meant that she was struggling to take more than 10 steps at a time so we really weren't progressing very quickly. Luckily a few paracetamols and altitude medication made the headache and nausea bearable but the exhaustion was still a huge stumbling block.
As the sun rose we both had a little boost of energy and admired the views of both Kenya and Tanzania on either side of the mountain and although we had hoped to see this from the peak, it still provided a shot of energy which helped us finish the last portion of hell that was the Kibo to Gillmans Point.
Arriving at Gillmans after 8 hours was very slow but for me was symbolic as the guides had assured us it was easier from this point. It was from here that I was 100% certain we would make it. Gemma on the otherhand was really struggling for energy and seemed to be panicking about finding the energy to get down, let alone reach the summit! After a chat from the guides and reassurance that the decent was far easier she was back pushing for the summit.
By this stage every step hurt somewhere and the terrain whilst flatter in parts was very up and down - with lots of big sharp rocks to clamber over. The last test of stamina and mental strength was around 30 minutes walking through a sharp bed of glacier with some soft and some rock hard parts to it! Constantly slipping and loosing balance!
It was here that Gem summound from somewhere a final push to storm through without a break to the summit - I was trailing behind taking a few breathes before trying to get up after each fall. We stepped foot onto the gravelly surface of the summit together and whilst I tried my hardest to take everything in gem juat wanted to leave straight away! At the time the magnitude of the achievement is so hard to think about as the pain, cold and immenint decline is far more pressing. We took our pictures and videos then started the decent - back through the icey death trap before reaching the rocky ground and then back to Gillmans Point.
After a short break we decided to push hard and get down ASAP to clearer air and less sickness/headaches. The stage to Gillmans which had taken 8 hours to climb took 90 mins to descend - the hard rock we had zig zaged our way up was replaced with a soft gravel that you almost Skied down, leaning backward to an almost impossible angle and sliding on your soles. I would say the first 5 minutes were quite fun, but the next 85 were crippling on already sore muscles and joints!
We got back to Kibo and after a light lunch got some well earned rest... for 45 minutes!
We were then told it was better to get to Horombo the next camp down - so packed up and started another 3 hour decline but this time on much more forgiving terrain.
Arriving into Horombo we were both feeling disoriented, almost jet lagged but also immensely proud!Read more
The extra 3 hour walk down to Horombo was definitely worth it. The temperature was much more bearable to sleep in and any signs of altitude sickness had completely gone now we were at a more comfortable 3700m.
William also let us decide on a more generous wake up time of 8.30am (well, to an extent, we suggested 11am and he laughed and said no). Breakfast was brought to our room again by our lovely porter Hassain. Unfortunately eating was a struggle (I think our bodies were still in shock) but we picked at what we could.
Everything was taking us so much longer than usual. We kept losing things in the room, packing our bags took forever, we were really like useless, big babies! It got to the point where William was standing at our door practically supervising us.
The 11km downhill hike back to the the Horombo huts was a breeze in comparison to the previous day. It was nice to take in the views again now that we weren't focusing so much on hiking up the mountain.
After Horombo, the final leg through the rainforest was great as we saw lots of colobus monkeys and hyraxes (they look like little guinea pigs). William suggested hopping in a jeep for the final 5km down the mountain and with aching limbs and blistered feet it was an offer that we couldn't refuse.
At the Marangu gate we collected our certificates and tipped the porters & guides. We went to a local bar for some celebratory Kilimanjaro beers and some local food prepared by Augustinos wife Sabina. We were all pretty hungry so wolfed down the food, said our goodbyes and jumped in our taxi back towards Savannah House.
We dropped the William off in Moshi, his home town and met Erastus, Tony's cousin (and guide) who had organised the whole trip for us. The reason he couldn't guide us personally was because his wedding was on the 26th Sep. After congratulating us on our achievement he invited us to his wedding, an offer we couldn't refuse!!Read more
TravelerJust had a catch up on your exploits. Wow, Superman and Wonder Woman.! It’s the kind of thing you only see C list celebs do for charity. You’re A list as far as Im concerned! Soooo glad you ignored my misgivings about travelling at this time. You’re clearly having the time of your lives xxx
After finishing Kilimanjaro a day early we rewarded ourselves yesterday with a day in bed doing absolutely nothing!
Today with sore and stiff muscles still we were heading to Erastus & Mercy's wedding around 30 minutes from Arusha Town.
We were picked up in a wedding car complete with ribbons and Gem immediately panicked as her dress was the same colour as the ribbons! After some jokes and laughter from Tony and the driver they reassured her she was fine and that the bride would be wearing white!
We arrived at the church which had people spilling out and more people sitting outside on what seems like a churchgoers subs bench! The music and dancing had already been going for 4 hours when we arrived, we awkwardly shimmied into the church to show our face and make a donation and then promptly retreated to the safety of the subs benches outside!
The next stop was a lake in one of the local national parks for the photos - we were watching from afar when Erastus shouts over for us to go up for our picture!!
Afterwards was to their new house which, after a ribbon cutting ceremony at the door, was officially opened and what seemed like the entire wedding party piled in to have a look!
Then to the back garden which had two huge marquees for each family and third smaller one at the front for the newlyweds. We were sat right at the front and almost felt bad to be, we assumed that they wanted us to be close to see everything or that it might seem better for Erastus' business life that he had westerners attending..
Either way it was a crazy ceremony with an MC/Compere who everyone seemed to find hilarious who was dancing/singing his way through introductions. They each had a time to introduce one another's families to the whole party and afterwards had gifts brought down from various guests - some higlights were a new bed, dining room tables and chairs, a cow, two goats and numerous pots/pans! It was like a real life generation game!
We were up and dancing a few times during certain parts of the ceremony and also had to go and accept our tables wedding cake which everyone else danced/shimmied up to collect... I tried and failed of course but raised a few laughs!
After a buffet lunch and around 6 hours we managed to say our goodbyes and get away - but it was a great insight into an African Wedding and we were so grateful to be invited!Read more
Our last day in Arusha had finally arrived. We were sad to be leaving Tony but excited for the final leg of the trip to Zanzibar.
We wanted to get a present for Tony and settled on some plants for the Savannah House courtyard. We got a taxi down to the garden centre (which wasn't actually a centre but instead lots of plants on the side of the road). We ended up getting papaya, mango and avocado plants. We'll have to return in 2 years once they start producing fruit!
In the afternoon we took a trip to a local orphanage. We asked Tony what to bring with us as we wanted to donate what we could. He suggested we buy rice, sugar, cooking oil, soap and toys. When we arrived we were shown around by the couple who ran the orphanage. All the kids also introduced themselves (some with handshakes, some with little curtseys and some with big hugs).
There were also a group of Americans visiting in a Catholic mission. We sat back and watched whilst they played games and sang songs with the kids who were absolutely loving it. Just before they left, one of them introduced herself to us and began praying for us (which was bizare but came from good intentions), in particular for safe travels (Craig kicked himself after as he should have asked for her to pray for Tottenham to win 🤣).
After the mission left, we began handing the toys out. Toy cars, skipping ropes, tennis balls, Lego pieces and a football were shared out and it seemed like everyone had something new to play with and no one was left out. As well as the toys, our own technology provided lots of fun for the kids too. Craig's fit bit was passed around so everyone could monitor their heart rate and how high they could get it if they ran around in circles. Countless selfies and videos were recorded on Craig's phone too.
By 7pm it was getting dark and was time for the children to have their dinner and our time to leave. Although the word orphanage is associated with sadness, we did not experience this feeling at all on our visit. The place was full of love, joy and happiness and hope for the kids future. We hope to find other ways to help out once we're back in the UK and working again.Read more
After planning to get an overnight train from Moshi to Dar es Salaam which was unfortunately cancelled, we instead chose to fly from Arusha Airport directly to Zanzibar. The plans changing last minute meant that I booked the flights with little to no consideration to the airline/plane and it was only en route to the airport that it dawned on us the plane was going to be a tinpot!!
The airport itself could be described best as an airfield with a canteen but the service couldn't be faulted, probably because we were 2 of only 9 customers! We certainly didn't need to arrive the customary 2 hours prior to departure!
After handing over our bags and receiving our boarding pass we headed on to the runway and I was drawing hope by judging the age of the planes, with the idea being 'if its that old it wouldve crashed by now if it was going to...
The take off was shaky and nervy for both of us and even as we ascended there was the occasional shake from left to right. After the first 15/20 minutes it settled and the next concern was the fact we only had one pilot! A few times I looked at him to check he was still awake/not having a heart attack and afterwards Gemma told me she was contemplating how she'd be able to get hold of Michael if the plane started going down!! Haha
For me the landing was the worst part, it seemed like a small breeze would knock us off path and approaching the runway there were times it felt we were side on and about to land wing first!! But despite there being more red flags than a Liverpool home game, this death trap flight made it and landed safely in Zanzibar!
We were staying in Spice Palace Hotel and after unpacking went out to explore... The winding narrow streets made navigation difficult but we made it to an Indian restaurant called Luckhmann - which was nice! I was given a chilli sauce which explodes after shaking, luckily it was nice as it ended up all over the food and me!
We then walked through the mazey streets and found the seafront, here we met Kassim who would take us for a walking tour later in the trip. We then found a nice bar on the beach called Travelers Cafe for sunset and finished our evening on the roof terrace of our hotel.Read more
We woke up, had breakfast at spice palace and were ready to explore stone town with our guide but as soon as we stepped outside there was a torrential downpour. We checked the weather and it didn't look great all day so we rearranged our tour and relaxed in the hotel for most of the day.
For the evening, we booked dinner at Emerson on Hurumzi - a traditional style rooftop restaurant incorporating a fusion Swahili and middle eastern food. We were treated to live music whilst we devoured our lovely 3 course Dinner (although Craig definitely didn't enjoy sitting on the floor the whole time).
The highlight was a lovely local couple sitting on a table near who had a birthday cake and handed out a slice to everyone else on the rooftop (there were only about 10 people but still a lovely gesture)!Read more
Second time lucky for the walking tour of Zanzibar! We met up with Kassim and he gave us a walking tour of Stone Town, navigating the seemingly maze like streets as if they were a motorway he seemed to show us everything... From the old forts to the mosques, churches and former slave market & museum - it was a eye opening discovering the varied history of Zanzibar throughout the years! It was funny to see the extent of the word 'ironically' being used to describe Britain's efforts to abolish slavery by tours and their information posters!
After that much learning Gemma decided to reward us with a drink and a game of pool in Tatu which was an old style wooden bar right on the beach! Based over 3 floors and built with what looked like bamboo it seemed as sturdy as a wave underfoot and the pool table stood with a slant akin to a pinball machine bit we percavierd and managed to climb back from the second floor alive! Afterwards we headed back to our terrace for a dinner and after a very (African style) long wait for our food we finished up and went for an early night!Read more
After a few days in Stone Town the constant approaches from shopkeepers, tour sellers and anyone else began to wear a little thin but we persevered because there are so many nice places to discover!
After our big hotel breakfast and a much needed trip to the gym we headed out to a veggie Indian restaurant called Krishna which served a lunch platter of curry, potatos, naan and poppadom for a fiver and was one of the best we've had!
We relaxed some more in the afternoon and in the evening headed to Upendo after Gem found some recommendations online and it didn't disappoint. Based over 5 floors it was a hotel with rooftop bar and infinity pool plus 4th floor restaurant serving mainly Indian food!
The sunset views from the rooftop were amazing (we could see Emerson on Hurumzi perfectly in the distance) and the food was even better - they had our favourite Indian potato burger - Vada pav. Ufortunately another quiet place during these times that deserved to be packed!!
On our way back in to the hotel we quickly realised that there was a staff talent show in full swing. Sadly we had missed most of it but we're lucky enough to witness some amazing dance routines (especially from Sho Sho, who actually won).Read more
TravelerLove the camp in the clouds!