• Gemma Craig H
jul. – nov. 2020

Travelling 2020

Our travelling plans collide with the global pandemic Covid 19 and take some unexpected turns. Quite literally making it up as we go and travelling to any countries that will take us! Leer más
  • Tanzania Day 18 - Kilimanjaro Day 2

    21 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After a good rest and breakfast we set off at 830am for the longest accent day of the trip an 11km climb to Horombo Camp 3700m. The landscape would change during the 6 hour trek from rainforest to moorland, meaning we could catch a glimpse of the peak for the first time (which felt impossibly far away)

    We were both taking altitude sickness tablets and neither of us had any problems at this stage. There was a point around 4 hours in just before we stopped for lunch that was a solid hour of steep incline with a completely rocky terrain which I found really hard. A combination of this plus too many layers and a heavy day bag meant I felt terrible by the time we stopped, basically just tired and nausious but it passed after a break. Gem apart from being a little tired was fine at this point!

    We finished our day with an easier/flatter 2 hours to Horombo and on arrival to camp were greated by a group of clouds blowing past us at head height and when passed a breathtaking view back down the mountain and across Tanzania.

    Again no hassle with altitude so another comfortable, if slightly colder, nights sleep and both feeling ready for the next day!,
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  • Tanzania Day 19 - Kilimanjaro Day 3

    22 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Another good night's sleep and no altitude sickness so we slept quite well at Horombo (although noticed the temperature had dropped about 10 degrees from last night).

    We set off at around 8am towards Kibo or base camp. The moorland shrubbery soon began to disappear and a more barren landscape materialised with almost moon like qualities! We also began to see clear views of the peak of Kili. It seemed hard to imagine that we had to get to the top of it!

    The first 4 hours of the hike were enjoyable and we were making good time. We stopped for lunch about an hour away from Kibo - we could actually see it in the distance. After lunch I began to feel really exhausted and had a head ache. I think the altitude was finally beginning to take its toll (understandably, we were nearly at 4,700m altitude). Luckily Craig was feeling completely fine so was providing all the moral support needed.

    William insisted on carrying my day pack for the last 30 minutes and assured me that I wouldn't believe what a difference a little less weight would make... and he was right! We reached Kibo, and the lovely porters and chefs bought all our food to our hut so we didn't have to use any energy unnecessarily!

    After dinner we had a briefing from William about the summit which would start at around midnight that very night...
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  • Tanzania Day 20 - Kilimanjaro Day 4

    23 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a cold and disrupted evenings sleep at Kibo Camp 4700m we were awokon at midnight with a hot drink and final pep talk from the guides before we set off for summit! The plan was to take 5 hours to reach Gillmans Point which was going to be the hardest part of the climb and from there 1-2 further hours to summit... Easy!

    Gem had been suffering with a light headache whilst trying to sleep but once up and about it passed and I was still unaffected so we both felt confident & a little apprehensive.

    Armed with a wardrobes worth of layers, two climbing poles, a headtorch and two amazing, reliable guides, we set off! The term 'pole pole' means slowly slowly in Swahilli and can be heard at least 10 times an hour on summit night. The idea being, any kind of over exersion can lead to shortness of breath which is hard to get back to normal quickly, so everything is done at a snails pace! The sensation of being able to see nothing except the shoes of the person in front for hours on end whilst feeling cold tired and out of breath was so hard. Although for me at around 5300m it was about to get even harder.

    I first felt a little sick but hoped it would pass, but after 10 more minutes I had the feeling you get right before being sick but constantly, meaning I was sweating, shaking and having to stop almost every 10 steps. For me after about an hour of this I was struggling and the thoughts of not making it were starting to enter my head. The guides were amazing, made me a hot tea, checked I wasn't actually dieing and insisted that it would pass if I pushed on. And they were right as about 15/20 minutes later I wasnt feeling sick at all but the toughness of the previous 90 minutes had left me running on empty energy wise.

    It seemed to be almost instantaneous that once I felt OK, Gem got hit harder - a combination of headache, nausea and exhaustion meant that she was struggling to take more than 10 steps at a time so we really weren't progressing very quickly. Luckily a few paracetamols and altitude medication made the headache and nausea bearable but the exhaustion was still a huge stumbling block.

    As the sun rose we both had a little boost of energy and admired the views of both Kenya and Tanzania on either side of the mountain and although we had hoped to see this from the peak, it still provided a shot of energy which helped us finish the last portion of hell that was the Kibo to Gillmans Point.

    Arriving at Gillmans after 8 hours was very slow but for me was symbolic as the guides had assured us it was easier from this point. It was from here that I was 100% certain we would make it. Gemma on the otherhand was really struggling for energy and seemed to be panicking about finding the energy to get down, let alone reach the summit! After a chat from the guides and reassurance that the decent was far easier she was back pushing for the summit.

    By this stage every step hurt somewhere and the terrain whilst flatter in parts was very up and down - with lots of big sharp rocks to clamber over. The last test of stamina and mental strength was around 30 minutes walking through a sharp bed of glacier with some soft and some rock hard parts to it! Constantly slipping and loosing balance!

    It was here that Gem summound from somewhere a final push to storm through without a break to the summit - I was trailing behind taking a few breathes before trying to get up after each fall. We stepped foot onto the gravelly surface of the summit together and whilst I tried my hardest to take everything in gem juat wanted to leave straight away! At the time the magnitude of the achievement is so hard to think about as the pain, cold and immenint decline is far more pressing. We took our pictures and videos then started the decent - back through the icey death trap before reaching the rocky ground and then back to Gillmans Point.

    After a short break we decided to push hard and get down ASAP to clearer air and less sickness/headaches. The stage to Gillmans which had taken 8 hours to climb took 90 mins to descend - the hard rock we had zig zaged our way up was replaced with a soft gravel that you almost Skied down, leaning backward to an almost impossible angle and sliding on your soles. I would say the first 5 minutes were quite fun, but the next 85 were crippling on already sore muscles and joints!

    We got back to Kibo and after a light lunch got some well earned rest... for 45 minutes!

    We were then told it was better to get to Horombo the next camp down - so packed up and started another 3 hour decline but this time on much more forgiving terrain.

    Arriving into Horombo we were both feeling disoriented, almost jet lagged but also immensely proud!
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  • Tanzania Day 21 - Kilimanjaro Day 5

    24 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The extra 3 hour walk down to Horombo was definitely worth it. The temperature was much more bearable to sleep in and any signs of altitude sickness had completely gone now we were at a more comfortable 3700m.

    William also let us decide on a more generous wake up time of 8.30am (well, to an extent, we suggested 11am and he laughed and said no). Breakfast was brought to our room again by our lovely porter Hassain. Unfortunately eating was a struggle (I think our bodies were still in shock) but we picked at what we could.

    Everything was taking us so much longer than usual. We kept losing things in the room, packing our bags took forever, we were really like useless, big babies! It got to the point where William was standing at our door practically supervising us.

    The 11km downhill hike back to the the Horombo huts was a breeze in comparison to the previous day. It was nice to take in the views again now that we weren't focusing so much on hiking up the mountain.

    After Horombo, the final leg through the rainforest was great as we saw lots of colobus monkeys and hyraxes (they look like little guinea pigs). William suggested hopping in a jeep for the final 5km down the mountain and with aching limbs and blistered feet it was an offer that we couldn't refuse.

    At the Marangu gate we collected our certificates and tipped the porters & guides. We went to a local bar for some celebratory Kilimanjaro beers and some local food prepared by Augustinos wife Sabina. We were all pretty hungry so wolfed down the food, said our goodbyes and jumped in our taxi back towards Savannah House.

    We dropped the William off in Moshi, his home town and met Erastus, Tony's cousin (and guide) who had organised the whole trip for us. The reason he couldn't guide us personally was because his wedding was on the 26th Sep. After congratulating us on our achievement he invited us to his wedding, an offer we couldn't refuse!!
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  • Tanzania Day 23 - Arusha

    26 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    After finishing Kilimanjaro a day early we rewarded ourselves yesterday with a day in bed doing absolutely nothing!

    Today with sore and stiff muscles still we were heading to Erastus & Mercy's wedding around 30 minutes from Arusha Town.

    We were picked up in a wedding car complete with ribbons and Gem immediately panicked as her dress was the same colour as the ribbons! After some jokes and laughter from Tony and the driver they reassured her she was fine and that the bride would be wearing white!

    We arrived at the church which had people spilling out and more people sitting outside on what seems like a churchgoers subs bench! The music and dancing had already been going for 4 hours when we arrived, we awkwardly shimmied into the church to show our face and make a donation and then promptly retreated to the safety of the subs benches outside!

    The next stop was a lake in one of the local national parks for the photos - we were watching from afar when Erastus shouts over for us to go up for our picture!!

    Afterwards was to their new house which, after a ribbon cutting ceremony at the door, was officially opened and what seemed like the entire wedding party piled in to have a look!

    Then to the back garden which had two huge marquees for each family and third smaller one at the front for the newlyweds. We were sat right at the front and almost felt bad to be, we assumed that they wanted us to be close to see everything or that it might seem better for Erastus' business life that he had westerners attending..

    Either way it was a crazy ceremony with an MC/Compere who everyone seemed to find hilarious who was dancing/singing his way through introductions. They each had a time to introduce one another's families to the whole party and afterwards had gifts brought down from various guests - some higlights were a new bed, dining room tables and chairs, a cow, two goats and numerous pots/pans! It was like a real life generation game!

    We were up and dancing a few times during certain parts of the ceremony and also had to go and accept our tables wedding cake which everyone else danced/shimmied up to collect... I tried and failed of course but raised a few laughs!

    After a buffet lunch and around 6 hours we managed to say our goodbyes and get away - but it was a great insight into an African Wedding and we were so grateful to be invited!
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  • Tanzania Day 26 - Arusha

    29 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Our last day in Arusha had finally arrived. We were sad to be leaving Tony but excited for the final leg of the trip to Zanzibar.

    We wanted to get a present for Tony and settled on some plants for the Savannah House courtyard. We got a taxi down to the garden centre (which wasn't actually a centre but instead lots of plants on the side of the road). We ended up getting papaya, mango and avocado plants. We'll have to return in 2 years once they start producing fruit!

    In the afternoon we took a trip to a local orphanage. We asked Tony what to bring with us as we wanted to donate what we could. He suggested we buy rice, sugar, cooking oil, soap and toys. When we arrived we were shown around by the couple who ran the orphanage. All the kids also introduced themselves (some with handshakes, some with little curtseys and some with big hugs).

    There were also a group of Americans visiting in a Catholic mission. We sat back and watched whilst they played games and sang songs with the kids who were absolutely loving it. Just before they left, one of them introduced herself to us and began praying for us (which was bizare but came from good intentions), in particular for safe travels (Craig kicked himself after as he should have asked for her to pray for Tottenham to win 🤣).

    After the mission left, we began handing the toys out. Toy cars, skipping ropes, tennis balls, Lego pieces and a football were shared out and it seemed like everyone had something new to play with and no one was left out. As well as the toys, our own technology provided lots of fun for the kids too. Craig's fit bit was passed around so everyone could monitor their heart rate and how high they could get it if they ran around in circles. Countless selfies and videos were recorded on Craig's phone too.

    By 7pm it was getting dark and was time for the children to have their dinner and our time to leave. Although the word orphanage is associated with sadness, we did not experience this feeling at all on our visit. The place was full of love, joy and happiness and hope for the kids future. We hope to find other ways to help out once we're back in the UK and working again.
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  • Tanzania Day 27 - Zanzibar

    30 de septiembre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After planning to get an overnight train from Moshi to Dar es Salaam which was unfortunately cancelled, we instead chose to fly from Arusha Airport directly to Zanzibar. The plans changing last minute meant that I booked the flights with little to no consideration to the airline/plane and it was only en route to the airport that it dawned on us the plane was going to be a tinpot!!

    The airport itself could be described best as an airfield with a canteen but the service couldn't be faulted, probably because we were 2 of only 9 customers! We certainly didn't need to arrive the customary 2 hours prior to departure!

    After handing over our bags and receiving our boarding pass we headed on to the runway and I was drawing hope by judging the age of the planes, with the idea being 'if its that old it wouldve crashed by now if it was going to...

    The take off was shaky and nervy for both of us and even as we ascended there was the occasional shake from left to right. After the first 15/20 minutes it settled and the next concern was the fact we only had one pilot! A few times I looked at him to check he was still awake/not having a heart attack and afterwards Gemma told me she was contemplating how she'd be able to get hold of Michael if the plane started going down!! Haha

    For me the landing was the worst part, it seemed like a small breeze would knock us off path and approaching the runway there were times it felt we were side on and about to land wing first!! But despite there being more red flags than a Liverpool home game, this death trap flight made it and landed safely in Zanzibar!

    We were staying in Spice Palace Hotel and after unpacking went out to explore... The winding narrow streets made navigation difficult but we made it to an Indian restaurant called Luckhmann - which was nice! I was given a chilli sauce which explodes after shaking, luckily it was nice as it ended up all over the food and me!

    We then walked through the mazey streets and found the seafront, here we met Kassim who would take us for a walking tour later in the trip. We then found a nice bar on the beach called Travelers Cafe for sunset and finished our evening on the roof terrace of our hotel.
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  • Tanzania Day 28 - Stone Town

    1 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We woke up, had breakfast at spice palace and were ready to explore stone town with our guide but as soon as we stepped outside there was a torrential downpour. We checked the weather and it didn't look great all day so we rearranged our tour and relaxed in the hotel for most of the day.

    For the evening, we booked dinner at Emerson on Hurumzi - a traditional style rooftop restaurant incorporating a fusion Swahili and middle eastern food. We were treated to live music whilst we devoured our lovely 3 course Dinner (although Craig definitely didn't enjoy sitting on the floor the whole time).

    The highlight was a lovely local couple sitting on a table near who had a birthday cake and handed out a slice to everyone else on the rooftop (there were only about 10 people but still a lovely gesture)!
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  • Tanzania Day 29 - Stone Town

    2 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Second time lucky for the walking tour of Zanzibar! We met up with Kassim and he gave us a walking tour of Stone Town, navigating the seemingly maze like streets as if they were a motorway he seemed to show us everything... From the old forts to the mosques, churches and former slave market & museum - it was a eye opening discovering the varied history of Zanzibar throughout the years! It was funny to see the extent of the word 'ironically' being used to describe Britain's efforts to abolish slavery by tours and their information posters!

    After that much learning Gemma decided to reward us with a drink and a game of pool in Tatu which was an old style wooden bar right on the beach! Based over 3 floors and built with what looked like bamboo it seemed as sturdy as a wave underfoot and the pool table stood with a slant akin to a pinball machine bit we percavierd and managed to climb back from the second floor alive! Afterwards we headed back to our terrace for a dinner and after a very (African style) long wait for our food we finished up and went for an early night!
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  • Tanzania Day 30 - Stone Town

    2 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    After a few days in Stone Town the constant approaches from shopkeepers, tour sellers and anyone else began to wear a little thin but we persevered because there are so many nice places to discover!

    After our big hotel breakfast and a much needed trip to the gym we headed out to a veggie Indian restaurant called Krishna which served a lunch platter of curry, potatos, naan and poppadom for a fiver and was one of the best we've had!

    We relaxed some more in the afternoon and in the evening headed to Upendo after Gem found some recommendations online and it didn't disappoint. Based over 5 floors it was a hotel with rooftop bar and infinity pool plus 4th floor restaurant serving mainly Indian food!

    The sunset views from the rooftop were amazing (we could see Emerson on Hurumzi perfectly in the distance) and the food was even better - they had our favourite Indian potato burger - Vada pav. Ufortunately another quiet place during these times that deserved to be packed!!

    On our way back in to the hotel we quickly realised that there was a staff talent show in full swing. Sadly we had missed most of it but we're lucky enough to witness some amazing dance routines (especially from Sho Sho, who actually won).
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  • Tanzania Day 31 - Stone Town

    4 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    For our final day in Stonetown we had a relatively chilled day. We went the The Beachouse for lunch which had great views out onto the ocean and also a very tastefully decorated bar and seating area.

    This day was probably the highlight of the whole trip for Craig as Tottenham beat Man U 6-1 that evening (although unfortunately this was slightly overshadowed by the Liverpool result in the next game)!
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  • Tanzania Day 32 - Nungwi

    5 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We had a taxi booked to take us up the West Coast of Zanzibar to the northern tip Nungwi - it took just over 90 minutes from StoneTown.

    We were staying at Casa Carlotta which is a nice little hostel a few hundred metres from Nungwi Beach and after unpacking we set off to explore..

    After speaking to numerous tour sellers we chatted most with Captain Boris who we would later use for a couple of excursions and eventually made our way to Sandies Resort..

    The restaurant overlooked the sea and the views were incredible, it was part of a big resort which seemed to be fancy and although like everywhere it was quiet the food was very nice (if a little overpriced for the area)

    After our meal we needed to sort mobile data and find a cash point so we headed out to the main road after some ropey sounding instructions from our waiter...

    We found niether of the things we needed but we did meet Wallie who was a fisherman and real character - we walked together towards the beach as he was on his way to work and we joked about how hard his life is having two wife's, he insisted two is his absolute limit!!

    Once on the beach again we stopped in a bar called Kajibange with a boat outside for a check on the WiFi and to make sure we were walking in the right direction for home..

    We made it back to the hostel and settled in for an early night... Even though the room fan wasn't working - Joto!!!
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  • Tanzania Day 33 - Nungwi

    6 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a few attempts at getting some cash out from the only ATM in Nungwi we were eventually successful and could head off for a relaxing afternoon on the beach..

    We settled for a bar with loungers included and spent the day sunbathing, before paying Captain Boris 10usd each for a sunset cruise... It was on a traditional Dhow Boat and we managed to spot some nice looking bars and restaurants en route..

    Afterwards we went straight into a bar/restaurant called Mangis to make the most of the beach sunset and have some dinner - and then headed back home to a nice air conditioned room to sleep
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  • Tanzania Day 34 - Nungwi

    7 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We had an early start for another of Boris' excursions, this time a boat trip with Dolphin Snorkeling and a Coral Reef.

    After some delays waiting on the beach we set off and after a short journey we spotted a group of around 30 dolphins!! We jumped straight in and although they seemed more frightened than in Maldives we did get to see babies and so many more than before, although they were all sticking to the sea bed for safety!

    We then headed on to a private island, Billy Gates' according to Boris... And the snorkeling there was the best either of us have ever done... The fish were everywhere and corals we so vast and funny looking.. We spent around 25 minutes exploring and really could have done more!!

    The next stop was a sandbank which was an Instagrammers paradise!! The views were amazing though to be fair and we spent another 17 half an hour or so relaxing on the sand in the middle of the ocean!! It was here I finally learnt how to float, it turns out all of this time I have had my head to far out of water!! When coach Gemma pointed this out I was floating like a rubber ring, what an achievement!! Haha

    We headed back to land and straight into Istanbul which, even though we had no cash and they didn't except card, welcomed us with open arms under the assumption we would settle up in the morning... The owner Jamal was a character and looked after us with everything from sunbeds to phone chargers and made sure we would not only settle up in the morning but visit again for the next day as well!!
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  • Tanzania Day 35 - Nungwi

    8 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After a morning run to the ATM for me and a hostel workout for Gem we headed back to Istanbul as promised to settle our bill and have some breakfast...

    We had another relaxing day but this time with no excursions, so it really was a lazy beach day... We did meet another British couple who suggested another bar further along the beach called Beach Baby which had a rooftop bar with dart boards and sun loungers on the beach - we settled here for a sunset drink and made plans to spend the day here tomrorow....Leer más

  • Tanzania Days 36 - 38 - Nungwi

    11 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    On Friday we went to Beach Baby again for a dinner and happy hour... The catch of the day was kingfish and it was delicious, afterwards Gem tried to squeeze 4 margaritas into the happy hour and after some drunken table tennis we left around 7.30pm for home... Though gem must have been doing something right on the table tennis front as she was stopped by a German women on the way out who complimented her on her ping pong!!

    We tried a different part of the beach on Saturday at a restaurant called 'Blue Wave' which was quiet but the food was great! We agreed to meet the Germans (Tom and Stef) for happy hour at Beach Baby and it was Tom's birthday so we spent the evening with them - they were divers from Dusseldorf and really interesting characters.. Later that evening, Beach Baby's party boat returned for the after-party with a DJ and for corona times, it was actually quite busy which was nice to see.. We tried introducing Stef to darts but after a while had to give up and call it a night.

    On Sunday we moved into a new hotel, still in Nungwi, called Babalao and run by a Turk called Ammat. It was brand new and he had been working to complete it for the last 6 months. He showed before and after pictures and the transformation was incredible. The rooms all had different African artworks painted directly onto the walls and the bar area had tables made from old Dhow Boats. You could tell everything had been well thought through and the end result was perfect. He was such a nice guy and we spent the evening with him and his brother talking about what brought them to Nungwi... He was an ex Turkish army General but had to retire with a back injury so was now running hotels and this was his 2nd in Nungwi (the first was Wakanda he had given to his sister to run).

    It was a shame we found Babalao so late in our trip to Nungwi as we would have wanted to stay much longer!
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  • Tanzania Day 39 - Nungwi

    12 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I woke up this morning with a sense of dread... Like a dark cloud was looming over me and something bad was about to happen... I knew the reason was because today Gem had booked to go horse riding on the beach!

    We spent the day on the beach and I must have changed my mind 20 times before finally agreeing to just close my eyes and hope for the best!!

    The stables weren't actually too bad and they all seemed pretty calm - mine was called Oreo and was the biggest which I was told meant he was the slowest/laziest but it didn't help in making it less intimidating! Gem's was called Sultan, an Arabian which tend to a but bouncier and firey.

    After getting on safely it was actually OK as it just stood waiting for the others to get ready but once we started walking I couldn't stop myself from tensing up and holding on for dear life!

    Once on the beach we started walking past bars and restaurants with English or South Africans guys heckling how stiff and scared I looked and then on past Africans playing football on the beach who found it hilarious that I needed a guide to walk infront of the horse!!

    All of this helped me to forget I was on a horse and after gem returned from a gallop with her horse that I'm told was only supposed to be a canter but it kicked out and went all wild I started to feel scared again! (Gem's take is not as extreme and says that it just had a little buck of excitement).

    We walked through the town and by early evening all of the kids were out playing and loved to sing and dance whilst shouting and chanting 'Falasee' as we passed, which I assume was Swahilli for horse and not 'stay calm and don't kill the rider' liked id hoped!!

    We made it back safely and the relief was intense - the feeling in my head of how it would be was far worse than the actual ride but its still something I would happily never ever do again!!
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  • Tanzania Day 40 - Nungwi

    13 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    We woke up and had another delicious breakfast from Babalao - fresh fruit, passion fruit juice, eggs and pancakes (needless to say we've definitely both gained a few Zanzibar pounds!). After, we went to the cash point which is a 30 minute walk away, through the local village.

    After working up an appetite we ate lunch at M&J cafe which overlooks a local playing field. The food is amazing and reasonably priced as it's not right on the beach.

    Then straight to the stables to swim with the horses! This time, Craig politely declined but came for a stroll and was the designated camera man. We walked the horses down to the beach and hopped on once we were on the sand (no saddles or bridles either, just a harness). I rode Oreo and he loved the water - he loved splashing his front feet against the waves! We did some walking in the water and a little swimming but I got the impression that Oreo preferred the walking so I was more than happy to let him find his own way.

    After 35 minutes my legs were killing - riding bareback is tough on the legs anyway but combined with the resistance of the water naturally pushing your legs back and having to grip tightly to stop them, it was the most intense leg workout I've done! We rode the horses back along the beach to the stables and hopped off. For a horse obsessed child it was definitely one of the highlights of the whole trip for me!

    We had dinner at a beachfront restaurant called Lungi Lungi and both had delicious local style coconut curries for dinner whilst watching our last Nungwi sunset.
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  • Tanzania Day 41 - Kilimajuu

    14 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our last morning with Ammat and Babalao was nice and after we said our goodbyes we had some pictures with him and his staff. Along with Tony at Savannah House I really do hope the best for Ammat at Babalao and we're sure once the people come back to Nungwi that he'll do fine!

    We drove down the east coast one hour to what we thought was Matemwe but we had actually booked a hotel in Kilimajuu. Zanzibar House is an old style hotel built right on the beach and on, arrival the high tide was almost in the back garden!! Once it had settled we walked down the beach to explore... What we found was mainly resorts or restaurants that 70/80% of were closed.. It seems a muvh quieter area anyway in terms of being more private but the lack of tourists seems much more noticeable here!

    We spent the evening playing American pool on a wobbly snooker table which was a laugh and also the South African version of trivial pursuit which was not a laugh!!
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  • Tanzania Day 42 - Kilimajuu

    15 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    The hotel owner Georgia recomended that we walk out to the sandbank at low tide and suggested some local guides take us to show us the way (and thank goodness she did!). They gave us some sticks to help with balance and made sure that we were wearing shoes because of the sea urchins (obviously they were bare foot because they're used to it!).

    It was incredible walking through what would be the ocean floor at high tide. Some parts were just sand and seaweed and some parts were pools of water (sometimes thigh deep). We saw star fish, sea cucumbers, clown fish, puffer fish and millions of sea urchins (I don't even think that's an exaggeration). Every step our gaze was focused on the floor and trying to avoid them. We were told that papaya draws out the spike if you stand on one but we're hoping that we wouldn't have to use that advice.

    We didn't reach the sandbank as we had to turn back because the tide was coming in but seeing all the ocean wildlife without even having to snorkel was the highlight for us.

    We spent the afternoon and evening relaxing and eating the fabulous Italian food at Zanzibar House. The owners are Italian and the menu contains lots of fresh pizza, freshly made pasta with good veggie options too.
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  • Tanzania Day 43-44 - Pingwe

    16 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The next stop on the east coast of Zanzibar was Pingwe. We didn't know much about the area but it is famous for 'The Rock' (not Dwayne Johnson, a restaurant on a rock in the ocean).

    We were welcomed with open arms into Shanuo Beach Bungalows by the lovely hotel owner Gillian (originally from Scotland). She showed us our room and we were delighted as the terrace overlooked the beach and ocean. Minutes later a local guy climbed seamlessly up the coconut tree to fetch us a fresh coconut. Craig tried next but only managed to climb a few feet!

    We spent the afternoon exploring the other local restaurants and hotels which were all a short walk away via the beach. The first was Upendo (the same company as the place we loved in stone town, Upendo House). It overlooked the rock and we had a great sharing platter for lunch.

    We thought we'd try The Rock next for a cocktail. Since the tide was high, we had to jump on a little boat to get to the restaurant (and it was a pretty bumpy ride)!

    The next stop was Baladin, a restaurant and hotel serving Italian food and...... Italian craft draught beer! It also had an amazing beach front area with a pool, swing chairs, sun loungers and even a boat like structure with day beds to lie on!

    The next day we pretty much spent the whole day either lounging on the day beds at our hotel or drinking craft beer and playing pool at the lovely Baladin!
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  • Tanzania Day 45 - Pingwe

    18 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After breakfast and some time relaxing we headed back to Upendo for an early lunch.. The food here has been perfect and the steak and eggs/veggie burger left us both happy!

    We then went on to Five Star Restaurant, which is another Italian place but has a pool and terrace area, and stayed there for a drink.. Although being away from the seabreeze slightly made this place ridiculously hot and even the swimming pool was like a hot tub so, we headed back to our safe haven Baladin for the evening...Leer más

  • Tanzania Day 46 - Pingwe

    19 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    For our last full day in Pingwe we made the most of the great food and lounge area at Upendo.

    For the evening we had already made plans Rashid, with the owner of Baladino (the fab Italian place with draught craft beer!). He told us that he visits a bar in Jambiani for live music every Monday and that we were welcome to come. Obviously we jumped at the chance as we couldn't remember the last time we were able to see live music.

    We had another great meal in Baladin for dinner and played a few games of pool after. After 4 very skillful games between Rashid and Craig which ended as a draw, we headed to Coral Rocks in Jambiani with Rashid and the Italian chef Luca.

    The live music was brilliant with lots of different performers from traditional African to reggae to R&B!We we're enjoying the beers as much as the music and both Rashid and Luca said they were impressed with our drinking hah! I took the time to quiz Luca on how to make some of the delicious Italian meals at Baladin (turns out an aubergine parmigiana isn't healthy or easy to make).

    When the live music ended at around 1am and the DJ started, it was our cue to leave (but we've already decided we're going next week and will book a room at Coral Rocks so we can crawl to bed as late as we like)!
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  • Zanzibar Day 47 - Michamve Kae

    20 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We checked out of Shanuo feeling a little worse for wear after the previous night. Funnily enough we bumped into Luca at our hotel bar - he'd been out all night and was still drinking!!

    We headed to our next stop Michamve, which was meant to be the best place for sunsets in the south east of Zanzibar.

    We had a pretty chilled day and went out in the evening for sunset drinks at Kae Funk which had good music, comfy seats and a camp fire!
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  • Tanzania Day 48 - Michamve Kae

    21 de octubre de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We woke up this morning for a breakfast and one of the four really nice guys that worked there had accidently given us sachets of Cockroach Killer instead of coffee!! Luckily Gem noticed and went for a Ginger Tea instead....

    After a quiet day relaxing in our room we came out for lunch around 2ish and were greeted with a worried looking waitor who must have apologised around 20 times when he realised his mistake from breakfast. We of course told him it was no problem and joked with him about it but as we had been in our room all day he genuinely thought he had poisoned us and we felt bad!

    This evening we were booked on a sunset paddeboard through the mamgroves! As the far weaker paddle boarder I, for some unknown reason, was responsible for the valuables bag and inevitably feel in drenching everything! Luckily gem's phone is waterproof but mine could not be saved... Lesson learned as the complety dry gem stepped off her board at the end of the trip....

    The boarding itself was great, although they didn't mention the fact we to go through a choppy/windy sea to get to the mangroves! Once there it was great to explore the winding aquatic maze and some parts were so narrow you had to lay/crouch down on the board to get through!

    The sunset on the way back to the start was brilliant and we both somehow felt closer to it being on the water.. We finished the day with a nice Indian dinner at Wing It By Sunset and got an early night
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