• День 189

    Berlin —> Munich

    22 сентября 2023 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had an early start today to catch the bus from Berlin to Munich. This would be our last major bus for the trip and meant we were heading to Oktoberfest!

    We had a midway stop in Nuremberg around 1ish then arrived into Munich about 5, then successfully getting to our campsite around 6pm.

    We had chosen to stay at a campsite specifically for Oktoberfest which had our food and drinks included plus some other benefits. We checked in to our very small tent (bit tricky with our luggage!) before making the most of the drinks package and exploring the campsite, getting fitted into our Oktoberfest outfits and enjoying the live music.

    There is no wifi at the campsite so we will be enjoying a bit of a digital detox over the next few days whilst we are here.
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  • День 188

    Berlin

    21 сентября 2023 г., Германия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We had a bit of a slower start this morning with Daniel going for a run and gab doing a call to do some organisation for a hens party when we get back.

    We then set out to explore Berlin for one last day on foot - the theme of today is the Cold War and the Berlin War. Our first stop was the Ernst Thailmann statue. This represents a prominent socialist figure in the post WWII era and so has been heavily graffitied. It is huge and there were many of these statues all around East Germany during the division of Germany. We moved on from the statue and headed towards the Museum at the Kulturbrauerei.

    This is a museum dedicated to the everyday life of people living in East Germany (otherwise known as the German Democratic Republic (GDR) or Communist East Germany) from the late 60s to 1990. The musesum is located at the site of a former brewery. The GDR was of course not democratic or a republic; rather it was a dictatorship with no elections, division of powers or freedom of movement.

    It was very interesting seeing and hearing the perspectives of people living during this time. The musesum addressed various parts of everyday life such as work, culture, leisure, supermarkets, fashion, restaurants, the press, housing, holidays, surveillance and censorship. The exhibition pointed out many positives and negatives of the GDR and how criticisms of the regime increased over time (especially as there were mass shortages on food and resources and people became dissatisfied with the lack of access to goods). Everyone was given a basic house, food and free child care. However, because everything was supposedly evenly spread there was lots of food shortages and people constantly seeking support from the west, which was banned. We also learnt about the FDJ - which was the GDR's way of getting school children involved in the socialist movement from a young age.

    After the museum, we headed to the Berlin Wall Memorial. This is a very beautiful outdoor memorial which is on the site of a section of the former Berlin Wall. It depicts the location of the inner and outer walls, where guard towers would have been and how some brave people attempted to tunnel under from east to west. Some did succeed, however 136 people lost their lives during the walls existence from 1961 to 1989. There are interesting exhibitions here about escapes and these people's stories.

    In a very fitting way to end this day and our last one in Berlin, we travelled to the East Side galleries. These are murals painted on the longest standing section (approx 1km) of the Berlin Wall which represent the freedom that the tearing down the wall signified. West Germany was seen as progressive or ‘hippies’ by the East and, of course, freedom of expression was banned in the east. The tearing down of the wall in 1989 not only signifies the reunification of a country but the freedom presented to those forced to live in the East against their will. We really enjoyed walking around the East Side Galleries - Gab has been here before and maintains its her favourite place to visit in Berlin. The images contain various messages and images - mostly representing hope and unity!

    We then made our way back to the hostel to chill out for a bit before heading to a comedy club for our last night in Berlin! It was open mic night and the acts were definitely very varied from all over the globe - US, India, Latvia and England plus also a 6 year old girl. It was a very fun night and a nice light hearted way to finish our time in Berlin after learning about a lot of dark history of the last few days.
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  • День 187

    Berlin

    20 сентября 2023 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We got up a bit earlier today for a very confronting but important tour to the former Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Although this was a hard day, we think it's really important to learn about these parts of history and remember the victims of the horrors of the past.

    We met our tour guide (who happened to be an Aussie studying history in Berlin) at a nearby train station and made our way out to Sachsenhausen on two trains and a bus. The trip took about an hour and he explained a few things about concentration camps including the history of the Nazi party's rise to power following WWI. Germany was born out of militaristic origins and so when they experienced huge losses in WWI, the party blamed Germany's loss and economic position on the Jews (using them as a scape goat). Once the Great Depression happened there were 6 million unemployed Germans and so these people sought support in the Nazi party which grew to the largest party in Germany.

    Our guide went into detail of Hilter's rise to power and the background in Germany. Specifically in relation to concentration camps, they were first constructed as a means to imprison political prisoners or opposers to the Nazi regime, and as history has shown were used for other means. There were over 44,000 concentration camps during the Holocaust. Sachsenhausen concentration camp started as a working/forced labour camp and the majority of the prisoners were imprisoned due to their political beliefs (though there was a large population which were imprisoned due to their status as Jews). It was the first concentration camp and was seen as a "model" for other camps. The violence at the camp increased over time as it became overpopulated and mass murders occurred in the 1940s at the camp through the use of the "neck shot unit" and later the gas chambers.

    We don’t need to go into the detail of what we saw in the camp but it is certainly very moving. There are replicas of some of the barracks as well as the original foundations/remains of other buildings and the gas chambers at station Z. The old camp kitchen has been converted into the main exhibit where different artefacts and stories of the camp are displayed and the way that the Nazi's horrific methods of mass murder evolved over time.

    Some may question why the camp has been restored, and this is summed up in an important quote by one of the survivors of the camp which says:
    "And I know one thing more - that the Europe of the future cannot exist without commemorating all those, regardless of their nationality, who were killed at that time with complete contempt and hate, and who were tortured to death, starved, gassed, incinerated and hanged..."

    After our tour, we boarded the bus and train together as a group back to Berlin and arrived back at the hostel around 4pm. We then decided to stay at the hostel for the rest of the afternoon.

    Later, we headed out for pizza and beer for dinner - the waiter only spoke Italian so Daniel was forced to draw on his Italian to order dinner. Thankfully two pizzas and two beers is pretty easy to work out!
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  • День 186

    Berlin

    19 сентября 2023 г., Германия ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    We started the day with a fantastic hostel breakfast before heading out to explore Berlin. Gab went to Berlin when she was on exchange 9 years ago and was excited to explore the history- filled city again!

    A new European city but this time no free waking tour or self guided tour. We really threw our playbook away today and opted for a paid walking tour as it had great reviews! Given there is so much history associated with Berlin and Germany, we wanted to be confident that we would get a really in-depth experience and we were not disappointed!

    We started our tour in the Hackersher market where many of the Jews used to live outside the city walls/moat when Berlin was a walled imperial city.

    We then commenced walking around Berlin making many stops including at Musesum Island, Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom), Lustgarden, Babelplatz (which contains the St Hedwig's cathedral, the university and the Opera House), Brandenburg Gate, part of the Berlin Wall, Reichstag Building, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and Checkpoint Charlie.

    Obviously, Berlin has a lot of history from being formed in around the 14th century, the Prussian empire, WWI, the rise of Hitler's Nazi Germany, WWII and the Cold War (and of course the division of Berlin into East and West Berlin).

    A lot of Berlin's history was discussed by our guide as we visited different sites. Some specific facts or stories we found interesting include that:
    - Berlin comes from Slavic word meaning "swamp" - because of the very swampy (and infertile) terrain in the area.
    - The Prussian empire that Germany was a part of grew easily because the land was flat and easy to conquer/keep growing.
    - The Prussian empire was very militaristic. There are lots of squares in the city which were used to drill soldiers.
    - Berlin was formed in around 14th century so it was quite a latecomer in terms of European cities. It copied architectural styles of different time periods from other cities which is quite interesting.
    - The Western part of Germany has always been quite different due to different terrain and Bavarian culture.
    - All 3 Reiches (the Firat Reich up until 1918, the Second Reich after WWI and the Third Reich as declared by Hitler) used the Lustgarden square (square right next to Berliner Dom for speeches).
    - Once he was appointed chancellor in 1933, Hitler cut down all trees along the old kings royal mile and replaced with columns to start the ‘Nazi victory mile’ which never eventuated.
    - In 1933, in Babelplatz, students gathered and burnt books which were declared to be "un-German" and "degenerate". In one night, over 22,000 books were burnt in this square as part of state censorship. In the square, there is now a window to under the ground where there are empty bookshelves to signify the books which were lost and there is a plaque with a famous quote from a German Jewish pet Heinrich Heine from 1820 which says: “Dort, wo man Bücher verbrennt, verbrennt man am Ende auch Menschen": "Where they burn books, they will also ultimately burn people." This powerful quote is about the Spanish Inquisition (which was the biggest persecution against a religion in Europe up until that time) but sadly reminds us that history can repeat itself.
    - We visited the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe which contains 2700 stones. The meaning behind the design is open to interpretation - some say the stones look like gravestones at Jewish cemeteries of different shapes and heights, others say that the stones are to signify the trains Jewish people were boarded on to go to concentration camps and others say the 2700 stones represent the 2700 pages in the Torah. It's a very moving place.
    - We also saw damage across the city from the extensive bombing from WWII. In particular, the city was significantly bombed in 1945 in the Battle for Berlin which amounted to huge deaths of Germans and Russians.
    - We also walked past the carpark where is us said Hitler’s body was burned and buried. It is not marked in any way but our tour guide noted that it is encouraged to take your dog there to do its business!
    - Of course, our guide spoke about the aftermath of WWII and the division of Berlin into East and West. The most significant sites in Berlin (such as the cathedral and other important buildings) were in East Berlin as this was part of Churchill's negotiations with the Soviet Union. These main sites had to be "replicated" in part in West Berlin. For example, another cathedral had to be built in West Berlin.
    - The guide spoke about life in East Berlin (especially as his wife grew up in East Berlin and escaped with her family). East Germany was very strict compared to other communist countries at the same time (as we have learnt about in our other travels). People were banned from learning English and many were very cut off from outside world.
    - We saw the huge embassies for the Czech Republic and North Korea which were granted by East Germany to these countries as they were friendly communist allies. Interestingly, they can not now be taken back by the German government.
    - We walked through the Brandenburg Tor (gate) which has been a symbol of the reunification of Germany and many embassies are very close. We witnessed large scale cleaning efforts of the gate as climate protectors painted it orange yesterday! A lot of the orange paint was removed but you can still see a bit of it in the photos - so you can definitely say our photos are unique!!
    - After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, graffiti grew into east when the East Germans saw the freedom of the west Germans.
    - We learnt that Berlin is a unique place in Germany and has quite a different culture to the rest if Germany. Apparently, 50% of Germans hate Berlin!

    After a very informative tour finishing at the infamous Checkpoint Charlie, we backtracked to the ‘Topographies of Terror ‘ museum we had passed earlier. This is an open-air style museum which was the headquarters of the SS and Gestapo during the Nazi rule which (after extensive bombing) has now been excavated and turned into a musesum. It also just happens to be directly next to a section of the Berlin Wall which still remains. The free musesum was very informative and contained a lot of information about the rise and fall of Nazi Germany including the role of the SS and Gestapo, the Nazi ideologies (including memorials and information about different people targeted such as Jewish people, disabed people, "gypsies", Soviets and asocial people), details of public humiliation techniques ensured to ensure compliance with the Nazi regime by the masses, details of the officers and their ultimate trials and the horrors which occured not just in Germany but also in occupied territories including in Poland, Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Serbia, Norway, Denmark, Hungary, Greece, France and Italy. There was also a large area containing the details of people who had been imprisoned and tortured at the SS headquarters including Stalin's son, other people with links to the West, resistance groups and people who had attempted to assassinate Hitler. It was very in-depth and confronting but important to understand why things in history happened the way they did.

    After this, we made our way to the Jewish Berlin Museum, a museum dedicated to explaining the history of Judaism as a religion and its place in Germany and throughout the world. Downstairs there is some very interesting architecture including an uneven labyrinth and 40m high "Holocaust Tower". Upstairs, there is much more informative exhibitions about the history and meaning of Judaism and how it is applied in daily life. One of the last exhibitions we saw was a room filled with floor to ceiling scrolls which listed the decrees which were put in place under Nazi control to limit what Jewish people were able to do in Nazi Germany. It was hard to read the extent of all of these decrees. Overall, we thought it was an interesting musesum and learnt a bit more about Judaism and Jewish traditions and beliefs.

    We stayed in the museum until it closed at 7pm and then started walking back towards the hostel, taking in some lovely sunset views of Berlin as we walked. We stopped in at a bbq restaurant on the way back where we tried traditional German currywurst - very delicious! Of course, we also tried some Berlin pilsner!

    We then went back to the hostel for showers and went to bed after a busy day (and with our brains filled with lots of information and thoughts!!)
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  • День 185

    Prague —> Berlin, Germany

    18 сентября 2023 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today marked 6 months on the road for us, so what better way to spend it than on the road!

    We left Prague around 10am en route to our final European country of our trip, Germany. We arrived in Berlin around 4pm after a few delays on the bus, checked into our hostel and chilled out. Our hostel was previously a brewery so it looks quite cool with exposed bricks.

    We were both pretty exhausted today and with a busy week or so coming up we opted for a quick dinner at a local thai restaurant and a quiet night in!
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  • День 184

    Prague

    17 сентября 2023 г., Чехия ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We had a bit of a slower morning today after a big day of walking yesterday. We did a couple of calls to family back home and a workout in the park on a beautiful sunny Sunday morning in Prague.

    We made our way into the old town around lunch time to visit the Czech beer museum! It was very cool seeing the history of beer production in the Czech Republic over the years and learnt that the Pilsner style of beer was in fact created in the Czech city of Pilsen, west of Prague. There was also some interesting information about the Budweisser name which was a Czech beer and then a Czech man who went to America started his own beer called Budweisser. This commenced many trademark disputes!

    We then got to enjoy some large tasters of beers produced around Prague which we enjoyed in the cool courtyard. After finishing off our beers, we headed for our ‘Medieval Night’ experience. This had been recommended by our English friend Tommy and it did not disappoint! It is a three course meal located in an underground tavern style restaurant with unlimited alcohol and lots of live medieval performances, including bagpipe playing, belly dancing, fire twirling jostling fights and many different costumes. We also ate our body weight in pork with what was definitely one of the biggest pork knuckles we had ever seen! The fire twirling/breathing at the end was definitely a highlight!

    We took one last walk around the old town main square before heading back to the hostel for a few games of cards and some sleep.
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  • День 183

    Prague (more photos)

    16 сентября 2023 г., Чехия ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    And even more photos from our full day of sightseeing in Prague - what a picturesque place!

  • День 183

    Prague

    16 сентября 2023 г., Чехия ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After our included hostel breakfast, we headed out to explore Prague!

    We enjoyed the self guided tour we did in Bratislava so much that we decided to do a similar style one to explore Prague from the same online blog (Nomad Epicureans). This one had 47 stops and a great way to see this beautiful city with is filled with over 600 years of architecture and history!

    We started at Charles Bridge, which connects the city over the Vltava River, one of Prague’s most iconic landmarks. The bridge is rightfully quite iconic at 520m long and filled with statues on either side. The walking guide told us that the bridge was built in 1357 and was made of sandstone bricks and rumoured to be mixed with mortar and eggs. The bridge was quite busy with tourists, buskers and stores selling souvenirs and crafts.

    After crossing the bridge, we arrived in the ‘Lesser Quarter’, as the smaller side of Prague is known. We saw some ‘interesting’ sculptures (including the Piss Sculpture depicting two naked men urinating) and explored the beautiful Kampa Island area with beautiful parks and little channels and streams with old mills (sometimes referred to as "Prague's Venice" - for good reason!) We checked out the artificial channel which separates Kampa Island and Lesser Quarter, Devil's stream which is quite pretty.

    We then walked to what is called the "Lennon Wall". This is a large wall filled with various graffiti which was set up a shrine to John Lennon after his death in 1980 and was also used for protest messages. Although the image of Lennon is now removed, it is an incredible site!

    We then walked to the Wallenstein Palace and gardens which is an old grand palace with lovely gardens and a grotesquery which are walls covered in rock formations which have been made to look like animals and snakes. Very strange indeed! There was also an enclosure there with some owls hanging around. We saw a wedding photoshoot and a few other photoshoots in this impressive area.

    We then headed into our first church of the day, the St Nicholas church. It was a beautiful pink-marble Roman Catholic Church with the highest indoor floor space in Prague, a whopping 57m! It's construction took almost 200 years. We even went to the gallery area and enjoyed the view looking over the church and its elaborate frescoes and paintings.

    We continued to explore, heading up the hill along Nerudova Street which contains wonderful mix of houses and shops. The houses contained different emblems as these used to indicate the houses before they introduced street numbers! The various emblems include the red eagle, red lamb, golden horseshoe and green lobster. At the top of the hill, we arrived at the Hradčany Square which is a majestic square which includes the Schwarzenberg Palace (with its distinctive sgraffito patterns) and Archbishop's Palace (with its amazing golden gates). This square is the gateway to the majestic Prague Castle. It is the largest castle of the ancient world with an area of 70,000 sqm! The castle includes various churches and palaces. Since the fall of the Habsburg empire, since 1918, the Czech president has lived in the palace.

    We walked through the castle district, going inside the St Vitus church with its impressive glass windows! We made our way down towards the beautiful Letna Park, where we paused for a quick lunch break and some fantastic views over Prague. There is a lake there and many people were swimming and enjoying the last of the warm weather! We crossed the river again and saw the Rudolfinum, which contains many concert halls.

    We next made our way through the Jewish Quarter. Unfortunately it was Saturday so we couldn’t go into any synagogues but it was incredible exploring the quarter and seeing just how important and expansive the Jewish community was particuarly in the pre WWII era. The synagogues were beautiful to observe from the outside!

    We then entered the huge Old Town Square, which is easily the biggest square we had seen in our travels, possibly with the exception of St Peter’s Square in Rome. The square contains many architectural styles including Art Nouveau, Gothic, Baroque, Rococo, Romanesque, and Renaissance. There were a lot of people and tourists around and even a few protests.

    Many of the next stops on self guided tour were in or near the square, the most impressive of which is a 600 year old astronomical clock. This clocks chimes every hour with a mechanical show, but also tells the signs of the zodiac and each name day of the year! We waited to see the clock and enjoyed the short show! We also admired the main church in the square, Church of Our Lady before Tyn which was said to be Walt Disney's inspiration for the sleeping beauty castle.

    We exited the main square and walked a bit more before visiting our sixth or seventh church of the day (we had lost count by then!) called the Basilica of St James. What makes this church interesting is that it has a mummified hand hanging from the ceiling above the exit to the church. The story goes that a thief tried to steal jewels which were being held in the church. However, the Virgin Mary who was guarding the jewels held the thief’s arm so firmly that the monks had to chop it off and hung it in the church as a warning!

    After a few final stops in the New Town including Wenceslas Square, we finished our 30,000+ step day with a "chimney cake" cone with ice cream before heading back to the hostel for some dinner, a movie and bed.
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  • День 182

    Vienna —> Prague, Czech Republic

    15 сентября 2023 г., Чехия ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We checked out of the hostel and went on our last international train of our trip to Prague, Czech Republic. The train was about 4 hours long.

    The train trip was fairly quick, especially with Daniel frequently updating the NRL app to check the footy score! He was very happy when Storm won to get through to the preliminary final. We also enjoyed some Mozart Balls (dark chocolate balls filled with pistachio, marzipan and nougat) which we had bought in Vienna.

    We arrived into Prague around 4pm, checked into our hostel, did some shopping and had a chilled night in and watched a movie. As our hostel is a bit far from the main town and sites, we decided to rest up so we could have a big day of exploring tomorrow!
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