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April 2023

French Polynesia

A 15-day adventure by skip's retirement travel Read more
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    April 9, 2023
    skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Pape'ete Waterfront

    April 10, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The waterfront in Tahiti's capital stretches from an active cargo port to the ferry terminal to a series of parks. These pictures skip the cargo and ferry terminals as they are pretty typical. So I'm concentrating on the rest of the waterfront.
    As I'm here on Easter Monday, it's very quiet with most places are closed. This is a national holiday here.
    The 1st picture is of Place Vai'ete that is located next to the ferry terminal. Normally it's filled with people, food trucks, etc
    The 2nd picture is of The Quay or Papeete Marina where you often find private boats from around the world. To the right across the water and through the rain you might be able to make out Moto Uta, the small island that has become the shipping port.
    The 3rd picture is of Place Jacques Chirac. On the left is a Polynesian boat, but the main point here are the sculptures farther back. This site is a memorial and protest about the nuclear testing done in French Polynesia.
    The 4th picture us of Pā'ōfa'i Gardens. This larger park stretches along the waterfront esplanade and contains footpaths, fountains, landscaped gardens and more.
    The 5th picture is of Place To'Ata. This is another outdoor gathering space located at the other end of the esplanade about 1.5 km away from the ferry terminal. You can make out the large outdoor performance space in the background.
    The 5th and 6th pictures are in Bougainville Park located across the road from the waterfront parks shown on my pictures so far. This is one of the shadier places and bears the name of a famous French sailor of the 18th century.
    The last picture is a bit of street art in the area.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Pape'ete, Tahiti

    April 10, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Papeete on the island of Tahiti is the capital of the overseas collective of French Polynesia. Not only is it the political capital, it is the economic and cultural center, as well.
    As noted elsewhere, my 2 days here are Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. Both are legal holidays, with most places closed. Among the places I didn't get to visit are the pearl museum and the pearl market. There are also some below with exterior pictures of closed buildings.
    The 1st picture is the Papeete city hall. The 2nd picture is the municipal market. Both closed.
    The 3rd and 4th pictures are of Notre Dame cathedral: exterior and interior. I took the interior picture from farther back to get the full sized Madonna and child carving. In this case, the child is holding breadfruit. While it's hard to see, the paintings incorporate both European and Tahitian styles with the result showing the influence of Paul Gauguin.
    The 5th picture is the legislative assembly compound, and the 6th is the Presidential Palace compound. Both closed for the holiday.
    If I get back and have a chance to be here when they are open, I'll post more.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Mo'orea

    April 12, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Mo'orea is another island is French Polynesia very near Tahiti. It is part of the archipelago of the volcanic Society Islands, of which Tahiti (see other posts) is the largest.
    Many folks consider Mo'orea the most beautiful of the Society Islands. I think they're probably right.
    The 1st picture is taken from the ship as we enter Cook Bay. The 2nd picture is taken from an overlook. To the right you can see over water bungalows of the Sofitel, and to the left, under the clouds is the island of Tahiti.
    The 3rd picture is at the tourism office. You can see some of the landscape over the map of the island. The 2 bays at the top will come up again.
    The 4th picture looks at Bali Hai, the narrow mountain with it's top in the clouds. The movie wasn't made here, but they did film that mountain to insert were they needed it.
    The 5th picture is the largest Catholic church on the island. Between the towers, lost in the clouds is that mountain called Bali Hai. The 6th picture is one of the protestant churches. The island is mostly protestant as the 1st missionaries were from the London Missionary Society.
    The 7th picture looks out the length of Opunohu Bay. This is where Captain Cook landed, and this is where Mutiny on the Bounty was filmed.
    The 8th picture is taken from an overlook. To the left is Opunohu Bay and to the right is Cook Bay. (They put the Captain's name on the wrong bay.) These are the 2 bays I mentioned above, both are excellent anchorages.
    The 9th picture is a marae, said to be the largest on Mo'orea. This is a sacred space where the Polynesians gathered to worship their 3 gods (sea, war and weather).
    The last picture is the agricultural school for French Polynesia. Up to 500 students at any one time and from all of islands are taught how to best farm on these islands.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Makatea

    April 13, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Makatea is the 1st island of the Tuamotu Archipelago that we visited. It is unique in French Polynesia in that it is neither volcanic nor a typical atoll. It is a raised coral island with shear cliffs around most of the circumference. The cliffs rise straight up about 80 meters and are becoming a significant rock climbing site with over 100 routes already in place from beginner to expert climbs.
    For about 60 years of the last century, phosphate was mined here. When that operation shut down, the population dropped from about 3,600 to fewer than 100 today.
    The 1st picture is taken from the ship as we approached this island. You can see some of the cliffs to the left. The 2nd picture is taken from atop the bluffs, looking back at the remains of the phosphate operation's shipping terminal. This serves as the landing site for the island.
    The 3rd picture is a typical road on the east side of the island.
    The 4th and 5th pictures are of the former maintenance area of the mine with rusting equipment that was abandoned.
    The 6th picture is a closer look at the bluffs. I don't think I've ever seen natural limestone columns outside of a cave like those to the left in the picture.
    The 7th and 8th pictures are in a natural grotto where swimming among the cave formations is possible.
    The last picture is of a portion of the small village on the island.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Rangiroa

    April 14, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Rangiroa is one of the largest atolls anywhere. This archipelago is an important source of the Tahitian black pearls. The economy also includes coconuts, grapes (there is even a small winery here), fishing and tourism.
    Rangiroa is also well known as a snorkeling and diving location with the extensive coral reefs and very clear water. Perhaps the best known site is the Blue Lagoon which is essentially an atoll within an atoll.
    The 1st picture is of the waterfront of one of the small villages here. The 2nd picture is of the road on the island. Like other atolls, Rangiroa is long and narrow with only one road plus a few small alleys in the villages.
    The 3rd picture is of a coconut orchard.
    The 4th picture is of Tiputa Pass. It is one of only 2 passes or larger openings in the atoll. The tides run fast through the passes, attracting many of the large fish, rays, etc. to feed.
    The 5th picture is one of the several hundred islets in the atoll. These are called motus and many are used for tourism.
    The 6th picture is another cultural show presented on the upper, front deck of the ship.
    The last picture is my attempt to show how amazingly clear the water is.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Tikehau

    April 15, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Tikehau is another small atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia. This is another raised atoll somewhat like Makatea (see another post), though not as high. This one is a coral outgrowth on top of an underwater volcano.
    Tikehau is probably best known for its pink sand beaches. The 1st 3 pictures are taken at various beaches around the island. Much of Tikehau is made up of a series of motus, small islets. The 3rd picture shows a couple of them.
    The 4th picture is Hina's Bell. Legend has it that Princess Hina bathed here. To maintain her modesty, her father or a servant would bang on the rock that rang like a bell, warning people to stay away.
    The 5th picture is called the Sun Rock. I'm told that this partially degraded art is located so the sunset will shine directly on the white oval.
    Tahitian black pearls are world famous. Tikehau is one of the atolls where they are cultivated or cultured. The last picture is of some of the pearls.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Huahine

    April 17, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Huahine is known as a royal island. The Polynesian kings lived here. The main "island" actually consists of 2 islands separated by a deep, narrow channel except at low tide when they are connected by a sand bar and now a bridge. The channel is deep enough to accept cruise ships up to 3,500 passengers.
    The 1st picture is taken from a viewpoint on the larger island. You can see part of the channel and the smaller island on the distance.
    The 2nd and 3rd pictures are of the royal fale. This reproduction, now a museum, gives an overview of Polynesian life before they abdicated to the French. The 2nd picture is the outside, and the 3rd is inside. That is a 3D representation of the 2 islands in the foreground of the 3rd picture.
    The royal site contains many marae or worship sites. These are leveled stone surfaces with various standing stones. The 4th picture looks across a couple of them next to the royal fale.
    The 5th picture is another mara up hill in the forest. The 6th picture is a banyan tree. If you look closely, another mara is located adjacent. There are dozens of marae around the island.
    The people of Huahine still use stone fish traps such as those in the 7th picture.
    The last picture is of some of Huahine's surprising residents. These are blue eyed eels, a species I hadn't heard of. They are harmless so the local kids play with them. If you look closely, you can pick out blues eyes looking back at you    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Bora Bora

    April 18, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Bora Bora is an extinct volcano surrounded by a lagoon and coral reef. The local economy is almost entirely driven by tourism. There are many high end resorts as well as simpler accommodations. Bora Bora is well known for diving and snorkeling. While this suggests that the main attraction here is the lagoon (and rightly so), the island does have many walking trails to explore the mountains.
    The 1st 2 pictures were taken from the rim of the volcano looking over the lagoon. This part of the lagoon is the caldera of the volcano. The 3rd picture, taken later in the day in the rain, looks back from the lagoon to exposed rim of the volcano.
    Another part of Bora Bora's story is world war 2. The island was an important supply and logistics base for the US Navy. There are dozens of bunkers still here. The 4th picture looks through the woods to one of the empty bunkers. Likewise, a number of gun emplacements remain, too. The one in the 5th picture is not an original gun. This one was recovered from the USS Connecticut and paced here.
    The 6th picture is a portion of Matira beach, generally considered the best on the island. It is well over a kilometer of soft white sand facing to the west.
    The 7th picture is another mara (see other posts). Marae are the temples of the pre-Christian religion of the islands.
    The last picture is another part of what remains on the cone of the volcano.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Pari Pari, Taha'a

    April 19, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Pari Pari is a local business on Taha'a this is of 2 parts. One is coconut and tamanu oil. The other is rum. Both are made in the same small facility.
    The 1st 2 pictures are the oil operation.
    In the 1st picture is the area where the coconuts and tamaru nuts are accepted and prepared. The 2nd picture is where the oils are extracted. The presses are to the right. The stacked containers contain the oils awaiting further processing.
    The next 3 pictures are in the rum operation. The 3rd picture is where the sugar cane is crushed. The liquid sugar is then put in 1,000 liter containers where it is fermented as in the 4th picture. The 5th picture is the still.
    The last picture is a look at most of their products arranged for sale.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Taha'a

    April 19, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Taha'a stands next to Ra'iātea (see another post) sharing the same lagoon; that is, they are surrounded by the same coral reef. Like most of these islands, the economy is driven largely be tourism and fishing. However, Taha'a is also known as the Vanilla Island as about 80% of the Tahitian vanilla comes from here.
    The 1st picture is taken from an overlook towards Ha'amene Bay, the largest on the island.
    The 2nd picture is of a pig dance. I'm told this was done to dissuade people trying to steal pigs.
    The next 3 pictures are of vanilla cultivation. The 3rd picture is in the screened greenhouse to prevent birds from damaging the chop. The 4th picture is a bunch of green vanilla pods. And the 5th picture is of pods being dried.
    The next 3 pictures are at a black pearl farm, of which there are many around the islands. The 6th picture is of what is needed to seed the oysters to produce pearls, and the 6th picture is a worker describing the process. Each oyster gives 1 pearl and can be seeded 3-4 times. It takes almost 4 years to get the 1st pearl. The last picture looks over the bay where the oysters are kept. They are kept in heavy cages to prevent predation.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Ra'iātea

    April 20, 2023 in French Polynesia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    Ra'iātea is second only to Tahiti in both size and population. However, it's importance to all of Polynesia is historical.
    For many, Ra'iātea is a sacred island. It's original name was Havai'i which is related to the names of other Polynesian islands. It is in the center of the of called Polynesian triangle, with Hawaii, New Zealand and Easter Island at corners. This is apparent in the 1st picture. The octopus is a symbol of the interconnectedness of the Polynesian people. You will also see that Ra'iātea (using the original name Havai'i) is at the center where the body of the octopus is shown and from which all else emanates. And, Ra'iātea is believed to be where Polynesian culture began and from where colonization of the many islands began.
    As a sacred place, it isn't surprising that the main marae of all Polynesia are here. Marae Taputapuatea, in the 2nd picture, is the largest marae and the center of religious and cultural life of Polynesia. It dates to before 1000 CE. People of Polynesia still gather here for ceremonies. The next 3 pictures are of more of the marae that have been built nearby over the centuries. As Polynesian culture spread, stones from Marae Taputaputea were carried to and incorporated in many marae elsewhere.
    The last 2 pictures are of the town and waterfront on the island.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Rarotonga Overview

    April 24, 2023 in Cook Islands ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The Cook Islands consists of 15 islands in the South Pacific that are self governing and are also in free association with New Zealand. They are not members of the UN, but are members of most other international bodies and organizations.
    Rarotonga is the largest and main island of the country. The international airport and national capital area located here. My visit is limited to here.
    The 1st picture is the view from my balcony. This is typical for most of the island with sand beaches and lush vegetation.
    The 2nd picture is the main port with the local fishing harbor in the foreground and the commercial/cargo port to the rear.
    The Cook Islands are a parliamentary democracy. The 3rd picture is the parliament building. I doubt that there is another country whose legislature is housed in a former hostel.
    The 4th picture is simply a look at inland portion of the island. It is mountainous with no roads crossing the street interior. There are hiking trails across.
    The Cook Islands has been a part of the British world for well over 100 years, but they are not full members of the Commonwealth. Yet, the relationship remains strong as evidenced by the presence of a King's Representative whose facilities are in the 5th picture.
    The 6th picture is Muri Beach. Muri is "tourist central" here.
    The 7th and 8th pictures go together. The 7th picture is an historical monument of 7 stones remembering the 7 vaka or canoes that made the migration to New Zealand in about 1350 CE. These are said to be the ancestors of the New Zealand Maori. The 8th picture looks out from the monument across the bay and through the passage through the reef that the migrants passed through.
    The 9th picture is the national Library and Museum. Behind them is the center where cultural events take place. The area is surrounded by hostels for each island of the country where those folks stay, especially for the 10 day celebration each year of their self governing status.
    The last picture is the headquarters of the Cook Islands Christian Church, the denomination descended from the London Missionary Society's work here. This year they are marking the 200th anniversary of the arrival of the LMS.    Read more

  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelFrench Polynesia

    Avarua

    April 25, 2023 in Cook Islands ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Avarua is the capital of the Cook Islands and the only town of any real substance. There are a number of small villages, but they don't have the definition of Avarua. This post adds to the overview (see another post) with more detail about this part of the island.
    The 1st 2 posts look at the divided boulevard through downtown. Stores are to the left; the ocean is to be he right.
    The overview talked of the hostels for each island. The 3rd picture is a couple of these. The performance hall is across the street to the right.
    The 4th picture is the oldest school on the island. Apii means to teach or a place to teach.
    The 5th picture, taken just before the skies opened up, is street art whose significance is in the message. It is a very abbreviated history, beginning from the indigenous creation myth to modern time, symbolized by the airplane.
    The 6th picture looks across a modern cemetery to a raised marae (see other posts) in the background. Cemeteries like this only have foreigners and VIPs. Local families traditionally bury the dead on their own land. It is still the case today.
    The 7th picture has a church hall in the front and the oldest church on the island to the rear. It is under renovation for the 200th anniversary (see the overview post). The 8th picture is of the stone where the 1st Christian sermon on the island was preached. This location in a modern traffic circle is the actual location, and the stone was moved back here from where it had been kept.
    The 9th picture is the courthouse. The story has it that the current justice minister, in his youth, was a defendant in a suit and was talked into burning down the courthouse. He was caught and did his time. Since his release, he got involved in politics. I'm told that now he is one of the most popular politicians here.
    The last picture, in front of the national police headquarters, is a group of officers doing what looked to me to be line dancing. Unlikely, I know.    Read more

    Trip end
    April 23, 2023
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