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  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 39

    Gonzar to Ponte Campana - long and lovel

    June 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was a cold start this morning - I think I wore my jumper for longer than. I have ever done before - apart from in the Pyrenees.
    We left around 7 and soon came to Castro Mayor - named after the Castro, or basically hill fort, which is on the hill just above it. 50m from the Way but basically not signposted or much visited it appeared.
    The situation is very like a hill fort in the UK and really reminded me of one I visited in Devon, but it has so much more. Many of the walls were still in evidence as well as a large number of buildings in one section. I feel there must be so much more to find there (there was a sign which I think said that there was now a project to invest in more excavation?). It was a fascinating site dating from the first century BC and in a classic ‘hill fort’ location. There is so much to see in this area of Spain and I get the feeling that it is really only the odd pilgrim prepared to veer off the track a bit who gets to see it.
    So after the Castro we continued on through the Galician countryside. A quick breakfast at a very friendly cafe was followed by a walk though a gentle landscape. I wanted to see a Romanesque church with frescos preserved from the 15th century so opted for an additional 4.5k to do this, reassured that it would in fact be open by the sign at the start of the track leading to it.
    However after a solitary 2 k I reached the church - whose beautiful doorway was all I got to see as it was closed. I even rang the number of the caretaker but didn’t get a reply. But the walk was lovely anyway and I didn’t feel upset as was happy to be alone in the space with just a buzzard overhead for company.
    The walk into Palas de Reí seemed very quick once I was back on the main path. I met up with Caroline and Anna there who had been searching for knickers (Anna had left two pairs behind by mistake a couple of days ago!). Nowhere seemed to be open for lunch but finally we were given a suggestion for a local bar (by someone at a bar whose kitchen was closed) where we had a delicious ( really) cheese and salad bocadillo.
    After lunch meandered on towards our destination for tonight - an easy walk of about 5k- stopping for an ice cream and to look at local artisan jewellery- where we both bought earrings. So much for my aspiration to be less materialistic. It works as far as absolutely not buying anything remotely heavy but jewellery doesn’t seem to count!
    The Albergue tonight is amazing. Laid back and beautiful. We are in a very old building that I think must be an old mill. Surrounded by water - swimmable - and so quiet. And I have, of course swum. Cold but perfect.
    Now I’m sitting on the terrace with a glass of local white wine feeling very happy! This is a great place and will definitely be staying here next time.
    Just to add: for the first time my blog uploaded quickly and I haven’t finished it! Now I don’t think it will update as the wifi in this building is very poor.
    Anyway delicious vegetarian dinner with lots of new people. Sylvia from Italy, also vegetarian, was particularly lovely and shared some fairly horrendous Camino experiences with us She’s not only struggled to find vegetarian food, like me sometimes, but people have on occasion been really unpleasant to her - very relieved that hasn’t happened to me! She has been walking for about three weeks with a group including two Australians and an American. Sounds as if they’ve got on very well and are continuing on to Finisterre after reaching Santiago so may see them there.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 38

    Barbadelo to Gonzar - a day of two parts

    June 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today was very unusual because Caroline has damaged her ankle and had managed to get an appointment with a physio in Portomarin (the next large town) at 10 and was going there by taxi. So I set off on my own - although it’s already clear that from Sarria onwards you won’t be on your own for long, if at all, as there are many more people walking now. Also I was fortunate to have Anna leaving around the same time and walking to Gonzar too, so we linked up for quite large parts of this walk.
    Today we passed the 100km to Santiago mark - currently at about 80km - which felt an achievement having started at 800 and also quite melancholy as I don’t want this to end. I still love the walking and the whole experience, even tho I’m feeling very tired tonight, and I find myself beginning to plan how I’m going to get back here! Just hoping I can at some point in the not too distant future.
    It was a lovely morning and the first and longest part of the walk, to Portomarin, was beautiful. Typical Galician countryside with small farms and tiny villages.
    About 2 hours in we came to a doorway leading to a courtyard and garden where a very kind couple had laid out a fantastic breakfast spread - all donativo. As well as coffee and tea, there were home made cakes, tortilla, pancakes, cheese and meat, eggs, croquettes, fruit, walnuts - really everything you can imagine. All done with such kindness. It was an amazing stop and I really appreciated it. Anna and I sat there for quite a while before finally continuing on to Portomarin.
    There was a steep downhill section to the bridge over to the town and then steep steps up into the town on the other side.
    The main point of interest was a beautiful and simple Romanesque church. I tried to get another credencial but the information office, where I thought I might have been able to find one, was deserted. We had a drink and then continued on the final section, mainly uphill, into the tiny hamlet of Gonzar.
    This part of the walk wasn’t as attractive, lots of walking by roads and the day had clouded over so everything looked a bit grim. The temperature was good tho for what was, in the end, a pretty long walk.
    The place we are staying tonight seems fine. No cards so I was relieved that I’d managed to get more cash out in Portomarin. It’s been quite hard to use cards for the last few days and most of the places we walk through don’t have banks so it’s important to have plenty of cash!
    Reunited with C, who seemed to have had s successful appointment with the physio, we went to eat a late lunch at the nearby Albergue - salad and padrón peppers / and then came back so do the washing (!) and rest a bit. Have now had supper here and have eaten far too much - but the food was fine and managed vegetarian which is always a relief.
    Not such a long day tomorrow unless I do the 4.5k detour to a special church. I’m thinking about that!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 37

    Samos to Barbadelo - the beginning of th

    June 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Oh dear - feeling a bit gloomy today as we’ve entered what is really the last stage of our epic journey.
    Sarria - which we passed through today - is the last place you can start walking if you are to qualify for your Compostela. It’s just over 100km from Santiago and is reputedly much busier than the rest of the Camino.
    Starting from Samos, again in the cloud, we saw hardly anyone. We were not expecting anywhere to stop for the first 15km and this would have been true apart from the kindness of a man at a tiny Albergue in the forest. He had a table with (remarkably good) coffee, tea etc and some biscuits and fruit - all donativo. I so appreciated my coffee and was also very happy to meet up with Callie and Anna who had been in Samos at the Albergue run by the monastery. Sean (erstwhile veggie inclined friend who I have met a couple of times) had actually stayed at the monastery in a room and had three meals. That’s what I would like to do next time!
    It was a fairly gentle and cool walk through the forest, often beside a river, to join up with the main path to Sarria from Triacastella.
    Sarria appeared in a bowl in the hills and we were soon walking in what felt like a city, but what is in fact a middle sized town - but with lots of infrastructure for pilgrims. Lots of hostels, banks supermarkets etc.
    I had heard from Bella about a great vegan/veggie cafe and shop so we headed there and had breakfast (in my case) and lunch (in Caroline’s). Although hers looked so good (a Buddha bowl) I had a small lunch too.
    It really was a fab place; my toast and tahini and honey was delicious and I then had a bowl of lentils which was exactly what I needed. C had a Buddha bowl which was perfection - I just didn’t feel I could eat that as was still feeling a bit under the weather.
    Leaving Sarria was hard after what ended up being a long stop and after eating quite a lot.
    I’m definitely better if I eat after I arrive rather than on the way.
    By the time we were heading out of Sarria it was pretty warm and although we were again on paths through trees, it was largely up hill so felt quite hard.
    Our Albergue in Barbadelo is very luxurious compared to the normal ones and has a pool! I had a wonderful and very refreshing swim. The place isn’t busy - I guess most people start in Sarria so wouldn’t stop after 4 km! Hopefully that will give me a head start tomorrow so the way won’t be too crowded. The plan is also to go beyond the ‘regular’ stage tomorrow, and as it is also the middle of the week, maybe it won’t be so crowded.
    Caroline has got a painful ankle so is going to get some physio in Portomarin tomorrow, so she will take a taxi there in the morning rather than walking. She’s really hoping they will sort it out for her so she can continue. I hope so too!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 36

    Fonfria to Samos - diving into a sea of

    June 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We left the lovely Albergue at Fonfria at about 7 after buying some of their delicious Santiago cake and fruit and yoghurt.
    It was a beautiful morning,
    Clear blue skies and fabulous views of the mountains. The way was gently down at first. Turning a corner we saw a pool of cloud sitting in the valley- like a soft white sea. I have never seen anything like it, and I have done quite a lot of walking in the mountains. At every turn of the path it looked different; it was as if we were walking along a coast road and could see islands in the sea. I’m very bad at describing this and I’m not sure the photos do it justice, but it was the most incredible sight.
    After a while, as we began the descent to Triacastella, it felt like we were diving into the cloud. The view began to disappear and everything was misty and quite cold. My fingers went numb and by the time we reached Triacastella I was very ready for coffee and my jumper. Fortunately the sun came back pretty quickly and I was soon back to normal.
    We then took the alternative route to Samos which follows the river all the way to the monastery town. The ‘normal’ route goes straight to Sarria - where many people start their Camino because it’s just over 100km from there to Santiago (and you have to walk at least 100km to get your Compostela).
    By now it was getting warm and I stopped for a drink at the only bar on this 10km stretch.
    We got into Samos by about 1 but couldn’t check into our room until 2, so sat and ate our lunch (yogurt and nuts) by the river. It looked very swimmable but I wasn’t feeling 100% so thought it was better not to go in this time.
    The Albergue is good but does not have food, and apparently Tuesday is a rest day in Samos so nearly everywhere else was closed too. The only option for dinner was a bocadillo at the tiny bar - so that had to do. Very sad because there is a restaurant opposite which gets very good reviews - not for us tho. At 5.30 we went on the tour of the monastery. We were taken round by a Benedictine monk who, I think, would have been an interesting guide if I’d been able to speak a bit more Spanish. The limited amount I do have was very useful and I was able to understand some of what he was explaining and even answered some of his questions (he was very interactive). There are only eleven monks living there now - most of the place is just empty. The others in our group were mainly Italian and could understand a fair amount of Spanish but there was also a Spanish pilgrim who had stared walking in Rome. The monk was fascinated by this and asked lots of questions, including why he had walked from Rome and why he had walked so many caminos. The guy said he asked himself the same questions and said that when he finished one he always said that was the last - but so far it never has been! He wasn’t very old so I feel this one won’t be his last either but I don’t know what you do after walking from Rome (he started on 24th March).
    We then had our sandwich and a drink before going to the mass at 7. It was a strangely perfunctory mass for me and although in a beautiful church, not as special for me as the one in O Cebreiro. Not sure anything will match that.
    Hoping to feel much better tomorrow and to find some very good food in Sarria. One of our friends was there today and seems to have found a great veggie place!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 35

    O Cebreiro to Fonfria - still in the mou

    June 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I woke up to a misty mountain scene in complete contrast to yesterday’s bright clear skies. From the bedroom window it sounded as if it was raining, but I think it was the trees dripping. We were in the cloud rather than under it.
    As we had a very short walk today we had never planned to leave super early and we’re aiming for around 9 - so no alarm clock necessary, which was a joy!
    We decided to have breakfast at the hotel across the street where we ate with Romona last night. Just coffee and toast but with their delicious local bread which made it special.
    We did leave just after 9 and at first were strolling along a gently undulating path through the cloud.
    It was noticeable that there were lots of new people following the trail having started in O Cebreiro. - some actually running along the trail. But that didn’t last long as it soon became quite steep again in sections because we were headed up to the third highest peak of the whole walk.
    The peak is called Alto de Poio and there was a very welcomed cafe at the top where we sat for quite a while as we then only had about three and a half kilometres to go. It was fascinating watching the clouds moving, revealing the mountains at one moment and then covering them again a few minutes later. At one point we were looking down on the the cloud which undulated like the sea surrounded by a ring of mountains.
    Eventually we decided to continue on to Fonfria. Our Albergue is in a tiny village but seems to have everything we could possibly want. Great washing and drying facilites (my personal obsession). Great food - we had a delicious simple lunch including more of the delicious local cheese with honey. Fruit to buy and fab outside space. Not only loads of washing lines but tables and chairs, loungers, and a trampoline!! Of course I’ve had a quick go on the trampoline and will have another one in a minute but I did find it very exhausting - think I’m fitter but not that fit!
    Dinner in the thatched Palozzo was wonderful too - a day of superlatives. Again. We started with Galician soup, but for the first time in my experience it was vegetarian- normally it has meat in it - so I was very excited to be able to eat it. Then a sort of vegetable risotto and then torta De Santiago - home made and the best one I’ve ever tasted. Very good meal, with local Bierzo red wine and then a Galician liqueur which was a bit like baileys - but I think nicer.
    Lots of new people to meet and old friends too. A very good and really quite relaxing day.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 34

    Pradela to O Cebreiro - the big mountain

    June 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Our dorm companion of last night, Matt, decided to get up at 4am and left at 4.30. Consequently we were awake for most of time from then until 5.30 when the alarm went off. The plan was to leave at 6 because of the heat and the climb up to O Cebreiro -
    Probably the toughest we’ve done since St Jean.
    Our companion took all the loo paper with him when he left which was a bit annoying, but a bit bleary eyed -and with a bit of a headache (in my case), we did manage to leave at 6.
    It was just getting light and the hills were silhouetted against the dawn. The first 3k were downhill to Trabadelo. Then the next 10k or so we’re pretty flat, along a road next to the river but with the A6 motorway close by for most of the time.
    Coffee and paracetamol made me feel a bit more human, and by the time it was properly light I was feeling a bit better and ready to climb.
    Fortunately most of the early part of the quite steep climb was shaded by oak trees and there were plenty of places to stop for drinks - I think I drank about a litre and a half of sparkling water in less than an hour at one point. An ice cream at a cafe near the top was a huge help with the last part and then we were in Galicia!! I’m so happy as I loved Galicia in October last year and it certainly feels like quite an achievement to be here this time!
    The mountain landscapes were fabulous - I hope the photos will give some idea of the beauty of this place - but I think you really have to see the whole for yourself to get a real feel for it.
    After a lunch of various types of goats local goats cheese with honey - and more goats cheese with tomato and basalmic vinegar (a bit of mis ordering by me) but delicious - we retreated to our room as the 4am wake up call followed by the 22km uphill walk had left me at least, feeling a bit dazed.
    This evening went to a beautiful mass at the church of Santa Maria Real do Camino. A very pilgrim focused service with a wonderful priest speaking in many languages. It culminated in a pilgrim blessing. I found it very moving and was in tears by the end of the service.
    The evening finished with watching the sun set over Galicia - beautiful and memorable. O Cebreiro is a very special place and I will be very sad to leave tomorrow morning. I will definitely be coming back!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    11
    Day 33

    Pieros to Pradela (instead of Trabadelo!

    June 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So today after sleeping really well we left at 6.30. It was already warm but a good walking temperature and the first 6km to Villafranca was quiet and beautiful. The path wound through the vineyards of various bodegas of the Bierzo region until it reached Villafranca. Villafranca is a handsome town and I would love to explore it properly on my next Camino! There’s a castle, a working convent and some lovely churches as well as winding streets and a river in a deep gorge. We just stopped for coffee and for Caroline to charge her phone a bit.
    It was then time to make a decision about our route to Trabadelo. The usual route follows the main road and stays fairly low in The Valley. There are two other routes. One, the Dragona is reputed to be tricky and badly signed and anyway rejoins the main route too late to allow a stay in Trabadelo. The other route is called the Pradela, and rises steeply up out of Villafranca to reach the small village of Pradela before dropping down into Trabadelo.
    I was determined to take this route as I really didn’t want to walk along the road. We had been told that the road route was pretty unattractive as it also follows the A 6 motorway. However Caroline wasn’t sure about taking the steeper route in the heat (it is extremely hot today, even up high). So we had agreed to walk separately if necessary. In the end Caroline decided to walk the Pradela with me as it was still pretty early and relatively cool, and although steeper and a little longer, looked much more interesting.
    It was extremely steep to start with but gradually levelled out and became more undulating than straight up.
    The scenery was stunning and (I think) we were both really pleased that we’d made the choice. Much of the steeper part was in shade so only the last section was particularly hot, and even then we were winding through chestnut groves so in intermittent shade.
    We finally arrived in Pradela around 11. We had been told about the Albergue there by Catherine, one of the hospitaleros at Guacelmo Alberge in Rabanal. She had tried their chestnut cake and said it was amazing. It really was - so we decided to stay for lunch, and that was great too. Chestnuts are the thing round here and the family who run the hostal also use produce from their own garden for the meals. We had goats cheese salad, roasted peppers, yoghurt with chestnuts, a glass of their own red wine and were then given a thimbleful of their home made chestnut liqueur.
    As the Albergue is only 40 mins from Trabadelo (and downhill) we decided to stay rather than going to the municipal - which still means we haven’t been to a municipal yet. But this is so worth it. We are the only people here so have the dormitory to ourselves - as well as everything else. And there are kittens! I’m very happy! And a donkey!
    So have frittered the afternoon away in a very enjoyable way - some sleep, some Duolingo, some chat. Another person has turned up - Matt from Galway in Ireland. He has walked over 40km today and that is his regular distance so it will be one night only as he’s aiming to be in Santiago by next Wednesday he arrived thinking he’s in Trabadelo and a bit gutted to have walked the extra 2 k and to have gone on the super hilly route - by mistake! I’m amazed he found it as no one else seems to have take this route today and we nearly missed it initially.
    Anyway it’s nice to have some company, as long as he doesn’t snore, and it may help us to get moving early tomorrow as he leaves by 5.30am.
    Am uploading a video of our neighbouring donkey who had a mad moment just after supper. Very funny - again sound is good!    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    1
    Day 32

    Ponferrada to Pieros

    June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Oh dear - although we’ve got veggie food tonight it feels like a bit of a mistake as a choice of a place to stay as Pieros is tiny and there seem to be only four of us staying. I’m feeling very guilty as I booked it having heard about it from another vegan pilgrim (now helping out at Albergue Verde) and thought it sounded good. Also just a relief to be able to eat something in the evening. Anyway sure it will be fine and we’ve rearranged another similar one that we were due to go to tomorrow.
    The walk today was mainly great - set off at about 6.45 in the cool of the day, and walked out of Ponferrada towards the mountains. Ponferrada is surrounded by mountains and is , I think, a lovely town.
    Walking out we gradually reached the countryside. It’s wine country and so we were walking though vineyards with grapes way more advanced than when we were in the Rioja area. I had been led to expect that it would be a boring walk mainly by roads, but this wasn’t really the case. There was some road walking but also plenty on paths and very quiet roads with fantastic birdsong.
    We were spoilt for places to stop for coffee and when we reached Cacabelos, the fairly sizeable town before the place where we were staying, we had iced coffee (in Spain coffee with an ice cube) and some padrón peppers which were delicious.
    The road to Pieros was a bit hot and lacking in shade but we were welcomed at the Albergue with iced water and after a shower felt much better.
    After working out that it was going to be very complicated getting to a nearby monastery that looked very interesting which although only about an hours walk away felt a bit far in the heat, we have now taken the bus back to town and I am now sitting by the river having had a delicious swim. Definitely the perfect antidote to the heat!!
    A glass of the local rosé wine later the bus miraculously appeared at roughly the right time, if not at the actual bus stop, and we were back at the Albergue in 5 minutes.
    Dinner was interesting. There are just 4 of us here tonight - c and I and two Germans - one of whom speaks no English at all - and neither of us speak any German. He was with us last night too in Astorga at Albergue Alea and both nights he didn’t seem too enamoured of the food. I’m pretty sure he’s staying at Casa Susie tomorrow in Trabadelo, also a veggie place, and I’m sort of wondering why as he’s definitely not vegetarian (this was clear!) and he doesn’t seem to like vegetarian food. But I guess each to their own! He’s very sweet and we all got along well in a non verbal way. Maybe I need to learn German next.
    I’m having a very early night :) as it’s super hot and will be hotter tomorrow so we’re leaving earlier.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    Day 31

    Riego to Ponferrada

    June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A short day today - only 11km - so had a bit of a lie in and set off around 8.30. A very quiet alpine type walk, with some very steep rocky sections, to Molinaseca. Before leaving the Albergue we picked some more cherries from their tree - sadly there were some already beginning to rot on the tree - clearly only pilgrims are eating them.
    Molinaseca is a wonderful little village accessed over a medieval bridge. The architecture of the previous villages of the Bierzo continued with wooden balconies, often covered in geraniums, overhanging the street. As well, there were some very grand houses in this village with coats of arms displayed on their corners.
    Stopped for coffee and toast and met up with Anna and Ramona.
    Then on to Ponferrada, mainly along roads, but nevertheless pretty quiet.
    Our hostal (vegetarian/vegan) is on the outskirts of town. It’s run by a lovely quite elderly couple who were very keen to help us with anything we needed. It’s a dorm but only is at the moment. Hoping we may get it to ourselves but think it’s unlikely.
    After dropping our bagels and sorting ourselves out a bit we are now in Astorga with a glass of the local Bierzo wine.
    Bought more gazpacho and yoghurt at the supermarket so have eaten cheaply and well.
    Later: visited the Templar castle (see very scenic pictures!) and met up with Anna again - also sharing our room at the hostal. Dinner at the hostel was wonderful - for me, vegan, with lentil soup, tofu with vegetables and salad and then an orange - perfect.
    It’s hot now - I actually love the temperature although it means we will have to leave earlier so that we are not walking in the very hottest part of the day. In a way it’s been a bit strange up until now because it’s been quite cool most of the time, with the odd exception, so at last I can see what walking in the heat is like. Another challenge but I’m up for it!
    New people at dinner. As well as Anna there is Paul from Belgium who has walked from Le Puy and a Spanish man who is at the end of a cycle route on the Camino de plata and who will be home in Galicia in two days time. Also a woman from Mexico walking with four South American friends and a gentleman from Japan (he didn’t seem to want to speak and so I didn’t get to practice my Japanese).
    I am very happy and just want this experience to continue.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Camino
    12
    Day 30

    Rabanal to Riego de Ambos

    June 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    For the first time we had coffee before leaving our accommodation- I was sad to leave Albergue Guacelmo with its lovely English hospitaleros. The reluctance to get on the way was exacerbated by being even more disorganised than usual owing to having to go to bed in the dark and try to sort stuff out in the morning while others were still sleeping.
    Finally left about 7.45 expecting a very steep climb up to Cruz de Fer. In the end it was pretty gentle -coffee on the way at Foncebaden but was glad we stayed at Rabanal as clouds would have meant no magnificent sunrise and Foncebaden did not have the same sort of atmosphere as Rabanal.
    Cruz de Fer was not quite what I expected but we were lucky that it was not too busy and I left my stone, brought from home, which is the traditional thing to do.
    From there I was expecting a steep downhill walk but in reality it was gently undulating for quite a while and the steep part (which was pretty steep with loose rocks and slate) started quite a bit later.
    It was a long tricky descent into El Acebo, where we ate very good cheese baguettes, then down further in Riego de Ambos. Had a moment of stress about whether we should continue into Riego or stop in El Acebo where there was a big modern hotel with both rooms and dorms (only the dorms would have been affordable) but so pleased we came to our Pension in Riego as it’s a lovely family run place. Very simple but we have an amazing view, a balcony where we’re drying our washing and where they made us a delicious meal - including Padrón peppers. There is a cherry tree in the garden that we were encouraged to pick from. Beautiful blush coloured cherries and so many of them!!
    I’m writing this listening to birdsong and looking out at the mountains. Very happy.

    If you watch the video I’ve attached make sure you have the sound turned up!!    Read more

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