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The Camino
  • Fiona Boult

The Camino

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    23 de maio de 2023
    Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    On our Way!!

    23 de maio de 2023, França ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Left home at 5am this morning to catch the Eurostar at St Pancras. Richard was brilliant and drove us there so arrived by 6am.
    The first people we met as we got out of the car were also Camino walkers this doing the French part from Le Puy - Anne and Sue from Durham.
    Eurostar left on time and crossing Paris was very easy leaving us time for a coffee at Montparnasse before getting on the TGV bound for Bayonne - which is where I am now More to follow!    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Photos from the first morning

    23 de maio de 2023, França
  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Bumped from the train at Bayonne!

    23 de maio de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    For some reason despite having tickets for the train to St Jean Pied de Port we have been put on a bus as they say the train is full! Have had an hour at Bayonne - very warm and sunny and a lovely town with a wide river and a smell of the sea - which is very close. Bus will be fine!!Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    St Jean Pied de Port - Auberge Beilari

    23 de maio de 2023, França

    So we have arrived at the start of the Camino Frances - St Jean Pied de Port. The bus actually worked fine and we arrived at the Alberge around 6.30. No one told me how beautiful St Jean is! Fabulous medieval town with winding cobbled streets and a river crossed by graceful bridges.
    We were greeted at Alberge Beilari by Joseph - had to dump our packs in a sheltered area outside and change our shoes. Then checked in and were shown out dorm which was a mix of beds and bunks.
    We had the most magical evening with our Camino family hosted by Joseph. Other pilgrims from Ireland, Australia, USA, Taiwan and France. All lovely and great fun. Delicious vegetarian meal (squash and fennel soup, then salad, then pasta with a soy and tomato sauce, then tiramisu). Red wine with the meal also delicious. This was a very special evening - everyone had their own reasons for being on the Camino and the theory that ‘the Camino will provide’ fully borne out in every way. My next door bed mate - Kay from Seattle turned out to be able to speak Chinese (or possibly Vietnamese) and could translate for Cho An who really spoke nearly no English (or French or Spanish) at all - not sure how she would have managed without her - but she didn’t need to! Bed very comfortable, silk sleeping bag liner worked well but unfortunately didn’t really sleep as I think I was a bit overtired and excited for the next day! Feel very lucky to be here and able to do this.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    24 de maio de 2023, França ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Set off from St Jean around 8.30. Short but steep day today 9km up into the Pyrenees. Weather has been misty with a bit of rain and a very little bit of sun. We were at the main Orisson Auberge by 10.30 so had coffee and then some soup as despite breakfast I was hungry.
    All a bit uncomfortable tho after that as was very sweaty after the steep climb but the weather had turned quite cold so just got chilled. Our Auberge (Auberge Borda) was a kilometre further on so we were there super early and it turned out that it didn’t open until 2.30. While the sun shone this was fine but got vv cold waiting.
    Laurent - owner - finally turned up but we are missing Joseph from last night as although the place is beautiful the welcome wasn’t and we don’t actually feel very welcome but instead a bit of a nuisance! Anyway the other pilgrims are lovely - some people from Beilari too and am sure dinner will be fun.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Evening at Auberge Borda

    24 de maio de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The day improved when Laurent lit the wood burner and we had a glass of red wine accompanied by crisps! Finally warm after getting thoroughly chilled - also helped by Brujo (witch in English) the cat who dat on my knee for some time. Facilities were wonderful - lots of hot water (shower was meant to be limited to 4mins with a token but luckily token didn’t function as Laurent would have liked so C and I were both able to shower on one token perfectly adequately).
    Dinner was good - soup followed by dauphinois potatoes and a bean thing for us vegetarians. Other pilgrims from France, South Korea, Austria (a couple who were actually 8 weeks into their walk having started in Austria in March) USA, Canada, Brazil, Israel and Italy.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Thursday 25th May Orisson to Roncesvalle

    25 de maio de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Slept well finally! No snoring as all female dormitory last night.
    Rudimentary breakfast but coffee was good. Set off to cross into Spain river the Pyrenees at about 8.15. Weather started bright and not too cold so we were soon in t shirts but not for long as it became quite cold very quickly. Unbelievably beautiful scenery when we could see it but lots of very misty patches where we could see very little.
    Met up with Nomi from Houston Texas but originally from Israel. She had started out with a friend but had come to the decision today that it wasn’t working out so was working out how to dump him - quite tricky I should imagine as we keep meeting up with the same people so he might be quite hard to avoid!
    Also met up again with Mark from Beilari on first night - he left at 6.30 am without breakfast and with no food and managed to get very lost. Saved from a very tricky situation by a lovely Irish couple with energy bars and who were on the right route. Walked quite a way with them. They are Camino addicts who have walked the Frances before as well as the Norte, the Primitivo and the Portuguese. Interesting discussions about Brexit - like most Europeans they remain completely baffled by the vote to leave and were very interested to know about what we perceived the benefits to be! We struggled…
    Arrived in Roncesvalles at about 1. Very cold as we’re still high up. Couldn’t check into our accommodation so went to the bar and had tortilla and two beers each- felt very good after quite hard cold walk.
    Now checked in and dinner in the hotel arranged. Hoping to go to the pilgrims service in the church attached to the monastery at 8pm if we can stay awake long enough. The church is beautiful with the most stunning stained glass. More to follow potentially…    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    At Roncesvalles

    25 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    We are feeling very fortunate as although our room at the Posada de Roncesvalles was VERY expensive, it is warm. Our friends staying at the very beautiful and traditional monastery have no heating and no blankets! They can see their breath inside and when we met them for dinner they were wearing every piece of clothing they possessed and fully expected to be keeping everything on overnight as like us they only have sleeping bag liners. We did ask if they wanted to share our room but think they felt awkward about this. We have two spare beds tonight. Anyway the €70 each now seems worth it! Good dinner for €15 including wine (not optional or appears) and then went to the church for the pilgrim mass. Again felt very blessed and was actually blessed (as not catholic).
    Onwards and upwards - or actually mainly steeply downwards tomorrow.
    Pictures are of the queue for the pilgrim dinner - general feeling that pilgrims need to be strictly herded on the whole!    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri - Friday 26th May

    26 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left Roncesvalles at around 7.45 on a beautiful but very cold morning (6 degrees). Didn’t bother with breakfast at the Posada but stopped in Burguete (known as a favourite place of Ernest Hemingway) for a coffee and in Espinal for more coffee and tortilla. Outside tables in a garden and delicious food. Shortly afterwards I managed to fall backwards into a stream while trying to take a photo of the church. Very embarrassing- I felt a bit like a beetle on its back as I was wearing my very heavy pack and couldn’t easily get up. Anyway I’m fine - slightly bruised behind but no major damage.
    The walk today was varied and stunning. Quite steep, both up and down, in parts, particularly at the end but manageable. We bought fruit - an apple for me and cherries and apricots - from a van in Espinal. Delicious and kept us going for most of the day - but having said that I’m glad that dinner at the hostal is early tonight as I’m very hungry now.
    Had to help a man who had fallen in the same sort of way as I did earlier - he lost his balance a bit and then fell backwards owing to the weight of his pack! I wonder how many times a day this happens on the Camino!!

    Tonight’s hostel and host Sara are both great. We will be a very British and Irish gathering - the three Irish siblings and their friend who we met in St Jean and Denis and Bernie also from Dublin who we met on the trail yesterday. Also James from the Uk and a few others. Dinner smells v good.
    This is such a special experience - I’m loving very minute tho am definitely quite tired. Looking forward to Pamplona tomorrow.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Albergue Suseia in Zubiri

    26 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Fabulous dinner with great company (people from Ireland, USA and Ecuador).
    Started with energetic salad, mushroom and zucchini soup, special veggie dish, fab local cheese and a yoghurt dessert. I’m desperate for some of the recipes and would love to stay here again.Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    The Camino will provide

    26 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So I lost my scarf somewhere between Orisson and Roncesvalles- wasn’t sure what had happened to it - whether I’d dropped it or left it somewhere. Anyway today while having breakfast at a little cafe in Espinal I bumped into Julie who we’d met at Alberge Borda. She asked if I’d lost a scarf and I said I had. She didn’t have it but Tricia (also at Borda) had it. Tricia is staying at Suseia tonight and was able to return it to me! So so happy as although not valuable I really love it and I need it! It’s very light but warm and I am so pleased it’s come back to me!Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante
    1

    Zubiri to Pamplona 27th May

    27 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ 🌩️ 27 °C

    A day of rivers and festivals.
    We left Zubiri around 7.45 and were soon walking along the Rio Arga which we followed for most of the day. Waterfalls, rapids and deep pools that I was desperate to get into but didn’t as it would be difficult to get dry and actually difficult to leave I imagine.
    Just out of Zubiri we met up with Mel and Rachel - from Surrey. They were carrying bags of more than 12 kilos - including collagen drinks and specialist hair are apparently! And this was having sent a hold-all full of stuff ahead via the transport system. I was amazed they could lift their bags let alone carry them as my bag of around 8 kilos was practically killing me by the end of the day. They were lovely - interesting stories as always and also, as always on the Camino it seems, wanting to share quite private stories about their lives.
    Came across a fascinating festival in Vilava with enormous dancing puppets.
    This was a hard day as it was hot and the route into Pamplona was largely on tarmac when we got close. My rucksack was really hurting my shoulders so after taking a few more photos in the Marsden t shirt I’m afraid I left it at the hostel in the ‘free to a good home’ box.
    Lovely hostel - Aloha(!). We were very relieved to arrive and sat on the terrace with beers to recover. Private room with shared bathroom - with sheets and towels - perfect.
    It was Caroline’s birthday so went for a wander around Pamplona after recovering, in an attempt to find somewhere to eat. Pamplona was heaving - definitely party town and party night. Eventually decided on bar Gaucho recommended by the hostel host and we were joined by Cheryl and Janice from Winnipeg in Canada and met up with Denis and Bernie from Ireland at the same place. Delicious tapas food and then ice cream. Bar was madly busy as was everywhere in the city centre ans despite it being Caroline’s birthday fundamentally we were all exhausted so still had a pretty early night.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante
    1

    Pamplona to Puente del Reina

    28 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A wonderful day of cornfields, wild flowers and birdsong
    Forecast was for hot weather so we left the hostel (after very good coffee) at 7am.
    Almost immediately met up with Bego and her friend. She is from Pamplona but is working in Brussels - he is a childhood friend from Luxembourg. She was absolutely lovely and has an adopted niece which meant we immediately had something in common. We talked her family and mine and her work and learning languages.
    We met up with her several times during the day at the various rest stops. First stop was in Zariquirgui where I bought coffee, cherries oranges and a banana. All delicious. In fact two lots of cherries as they are my favourite.
    Beautiful walk meeting up with several members of our Camino family.
    I am feeling very blessed and increasingly serene. Although my shoulder hurt and I’m very tired (and hungry at the moment) I feel so lucky to be able to do this.
    Just after we arrived at our hostel the most tremendous thunderstorm started and has been raging ever since - including hailstones at one point. Hoping it will stop before we need to go out to find dinner!!    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara

    28 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Just a post script to or evening in puente del Reina. Fabulous dinner with our very good friends Bego and Kim. Great local wine, simple but stunningly well cooked food. Asparagus, mozzarella salad, local cheeses and to finish, tarte tatin.Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    A day of roads - Roman and othes - Puent

    29 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After the storm - we left Puente La Reina around 8 after an abortive attempt to find coffee and a wait for the rain to stop finally. Slept quite badly for some reason (probably too much good red wine the night before) so was a bit tired for most of the day. Really wanted cherries but they were not to be had until a fruit shop in Estella.
    Despite feeling a bit grumpy I had a lovely day - more beautiful scenery and large sections along a Roman road.
    Hostal in Estella was a 4 bed female room in a very interesting old building. We already knew our room mates having met them along the Way - one was an Israeli girl who lives in a kibbutz arrangement in Akko - close to where I was on Kibbutz Shomrat when I was 17.
    We tried to wash some clothes but the heavens opened again - briefly - but still meant we needed to dry them in the room - slightly awkward when sharing but in the end they dried with the help of a bit of hair dryer input.
    Lively and lovely evening - first eating at Mundo - I had a delicious poke bowl - then met up with Bego and Kim and their friend Concha for a cup of tea before a reasonably early night which I really needed.
    Slight disagreement with one of the roommates who didn’t want any windows open owing to the sound of the river (I thought it was v soothing!). But room eventually cooled down- one window was allowed to be opened - and slept pretty well - thank goodness.    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante
    2

    A day of layered landscapes - Tuesday 30

    30 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Left Estella at 7.30. Out through the town and into a landscape of cornfields, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. Around 8 we found the wine fountain - really a bit early but everyone drank a little and saved some more for later. It belongs to the vineyard and is a famous spot on the Camino.
    Blue sky and mountains in the background. Layers of colours that made me want to paint - maybe I’ll find a painting class when I get home!
    Finally found coffee in Iguzquiza - also tortilla and cake! But I mainly ate cherries form yesterday.
    Continued walking to Villamayor de Mondjardin where we filled water bottles as had been told that water was scarce after this. Gently undulating path after Villamayor. The joy of a food truck half way to los Arcos where we bought ice cream.
    Altogether another day when I felt very very lucky to be doing this.
    Arrived in Los Arcos around 2.30 and checked in at our pension - Ostradar.
    After washing clothes went to explore the town, drank beers and arranged dinner with Denis and Bernie and Sheryl and Janice. €14 delicious three course pilgrims meal including wine. The church was open after dinner - extraordinarily beautiful.
    Very tired now.    Leia mais

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    I haven’t mentioned birdsong yet! Los Ar

    31 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I really need to talk about my new obsession with birdsong. As I walk along the Way I’m being serenaded by thousands of birds. Until now although I’ve been interested I’ve never really known which birds were around me. Well now I do thanks to an amazing app that records the songs and tells you who is singing.
    On the day between Roncesvalles and Zubiri I met a man who I now think gave me a wonderful gift and May be one of the Camino angels! He told me about the Merlín app from Cornell university and I now use it all the time. It certainly slows me down but I don’t care as I find it fascinating and am beginning to be able to identify some of the birds without it. I’ve had cuckoos, corn buntings, melodious warblers, turtle doves, serins, goldfinches, firecrests, cirl buntings, black caps, nightingales, Cetti’s warbler and zitting cisticola as well as blackbirds, chaffinches, sparrows, martins, swallows and swifts. Quite amazing.
    Slept really well and left at 7.30. We’ve give ourselves a shorter day today and tomorrow in lieu of having a rest day and this has seemed to work quite well. We will catch up with some of our Camino family in Najera and have actually reconnected with a couple of people who have also decided to stop in Viana.
    The walk was about 18 km - flat to start and then undulating to Viana. Coffee and croissant at Sansol then a beautiful octagonal church at Torres del Rio.
    Hot walking today but a very welcome truck about 6km before Viana where we topped up with water and an orange.
    Viana is a truly lovely town - narrow streets with tall houses, a fabulous church and a ruined fortress church with amazing views over the surrounding countryside.
    Had a siesta this afternoon which was much needed then a pilgrim meal with Tricia and Rachel joining us (slightly worrying moment when Tricia said she did know Rachel because she had had to wait for her to finish using the tumble dryer in a hostel at 10 in the evening - it possibly hadn’t been the most harmonious moment but Tricia seemed happy to forget about it and Rachel didn’t seem to remember she’d met Tricia so all fine). Only on the Camino!    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Thursday 1st June Viana to Navarrete - a

    1 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Very good nights sleep in Viana. Left at 7 in cool cloud for a long quite uninteresting walk into Lograño. After 10km and somewhere in the centre of Lograno, after exploring the church of Santiago, we had breakfast and somehow spent 2 hours wandering round and eating. On the way in saw many storks building nests and sitting on the roofs - wonderful sight.
    Out of Logroño we walked through a beautiful park with a lake and saw re squirrels. Less attractive was the bit afterwards on a path running alongside a motorway and the through major road construction zone. Finally into Navarrete totally exhausted to be honest - although the walk was only 23k it was very humid today and hot although predominantly cloudy. I needed a beer.
    Posada Ignatius where we are staying is lovely although we are the only people here - so the shared bathroom is ours alone.
    Very strange supper experience in a Fawlty towers type restaurant with added slightly sinister atmosphere which we eventually gave up on and ran away leaving €10 for the half glasses of wine we had drunk. Owner was newly arrived from Romania and although he had initially promised veggie food, or at least fish, when I had gone in to enquire earlier, when it came to it this was obviously a big problem and after shouting and banging in the kitchen and no food appearing, together with questions like - there will be ham - is ok? We decided to cut and run.
    Had a great meal with camino friends Tachel, Ros, Nick, Mike and Paul at Bar Deportivo with very good food and lovely staff.
    I have felt the need to dispose of things I really don’t need while on the Camino. Both actual things like hand sanitiser, old t shirt, old flip flops and virtual things in the form of unsubscribing from all the marketing emails I seems to receive hundreds of on a daily basis. I have unsubscribed from several every day so far and am feeling very relieved! Still struggling with ‘Nextdoor’ tho which I can’t seem to get rid of for the life of me.
    An ongoing project!    Leia mais

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajante

    Day 10 Navarrete to Najera - a day of vi

    2 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Left Navarrete around 7.30 in cool cloud. Perfect walking weather. Met up with Dave and Sherri from the US. They are on a 5 month European tour and including the full Camino. After telling us that they were spending some time out of Burgos at a circus festival they explained that they are clowns and have lived out of their van for 19 years - although they have also spent 5 years running a cat and dog kennels which they had to take over when Dave’s mother died. It had been her business and they took it over with no prior knowledge of what to do and had to combine managing the business with clearing her house as she had been a serious hoarder.
    Spent most of the morning with them including a delicious breakfast stop.
    This was a short day - 17km altogether - so we had time to explore Najera in the afternoon after waiting out a big thunderstorm.
    The monastery of Santa Maria was outstanding - it seems extraordinary that some of these towns are so off the tourist routes as they are very special.
    Dinner was another slight mistake but we managed to eat just about enough and then had a cup of tea with Sheryl and Janice who we bumped into.
    We are in Rioja now surrounded by vineyards - some with tiny grapes already in evidence, others with just leaves so far that I guess will be harvested later. Wonderful countryside but closer to big roads than before.    Leia mais

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    Saturday 3rd June - Najera to San Doming

    3 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We left Najera at 7 on the. Most beautiful morning. Coffee in Azofra at Bar Sevilla with tostada and they also made me a cheese sandwich for later.
    A wonderful walk in a stunning landscape and cool for a while. Weather began to heat up around 10.30 and I was very relieved to find a donativo food and drink stall by a shady area with a water fountain and benches.
    Changed my shoes for sandals for the first time which was reasonably successful although as the path was stony I did have to shake them out from time to time.
    On the bird front I heard a Rock Sparrow for the first time.
    Arrived in San Domingo at about 12.30 and immediately ran into Dave and Cherie - our clown friends from Maine - who were eating at a little bar in the square so stopped to chat with them.
    Have finally managed to solve the problem of accommodation in St Juan de Ortega where there seemed to be nothing available for Monday night. Janice was able to share details of a hostal which I have now been able to book for €15 each. Just very relieved that we will have somewhere to stay as it was looking impossible other than a terrible Alberge which everyone said to avoid.
    Explored the cathedral and learnt about the chicken legend. The cathedral has two live chickens (I have video!). The story is that a pilgrim lodged with a local family whose daughter made advances to him. When he rejected her she put a coin in his bag and then accused him of stealing. He was tried, found guilty and out to death by hanging. His parents then went on a pilgrimage to Santiago and on their way home wanted to collect his body for burial. But at this point he came back to life. When the town people approached the judge, who was eating chicken, saying that they did not know what to do with him as he was still alive, the judge said that he wasn’t any more alive than the chicken on his plate - at which point the chicken also came back to life. Sorry for the very brief and probably incoherent retelling of the story but I did enjoy the chickens in the cathedral!!    Leia mais

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    Mistier, farther and farther - from Sant

    4 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Sunday 4th June - a day that started cool and misty and almost raining. Still beautiful. Stopped for a poor coffee and bad toast after about 7km and then a second much better coffee a few kilometres further on.
    Then the sun came out and the views were stupendous. I need to paint - or at least begin to learn to paint. Next time I’m bringing a watercolour kit!
    Having been quite cold for the first part of the morning it then became quite hot and more of a slog close to a busy road. But having started at 7 we were safely in Belorado by about 1.
    We then had to wait in a huge queue to get into the hostal but we’re thankfully given a room of 4 with two other friends - which given that the bunks are very close together and look like double beds, is lucky.
    Belorado is another hidden gem and had the added bonus of a festival in the main square. Also a choral concert in the church which I heard part of.
    The hostal is busy but good with a lovely garden with a pool. I had a swim which was fab - the pool was surprisingly quiet - maybe most pilgrims don’t bring a costume? I met Ross from Glasgow who is a fellow wild swimmer and who has promised to let me know when he finds places to swim - he has already swim in two rivers! I’m very jealous.
    Good pilgrim meal at the hostal - veggie but small portions - sure this must be good for me.
    Very very early start tomorrow as it’s going to be a long day.    Leia mais

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    Day 13 - Belorado to Ages - one thousand

    5 de junho de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This was going to be a long hard day so left the hostal at 6 - but I might as well have left at 4 as I had almost no sleep as our dorm was noisy! Despite a headache it was a fab mornings walk until we stopped after 12km at Villafranca for coffee and tortilla.
    The next part of the walk was steeply up but not as hard as I had expected and then the most wonderful stroll through woodland with beautiful birdsong (including Bonellis warblers, tree pipit, firecrests, and short toed tree creepers). Then there were the butterflies - thousands of them following me along the trail and all over the flowers. Also a hummingbird hawk moth - one of my favourite insects.
    It was a truly magical day and once the headache went, thanks to paracetamol, I was in heaven! I’m sitting here in an 8 bed dorm writing this with a cuckoo still singing outside. I feel I may not get much sleep this as there is already snoring and coughing :(
    Wonderful meal at a local bar in Ages almost next door to the hostal - the owners only spoke Spanish but I managed to communicate and had a great vegetarian meal - with Caroline, Rachel, Roz, Paul and Nick.
    Burgos tomorrow for two days!!    Leia mais

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