Italy

July 2017
A 23-day adventure by Kelly Read more
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  • Departure

    July 4, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We were up at 6:30 am this morning to catch our cab by 7:30. After a quick trip to the airport, we checked in and grabbed Starbucks. Our flight was a bit late arriving, so we were a little late taking off. The turbulence leaving Winnipeg was awful! Brad equated it to being on our whale watching boat in Newfoundland!

    We arrived in Montreal around 1:30 and made our way to the Plaza Lounge, which is a perk I get with my credit card. There, we were able to eat lunch, sit in huge lounge chairs and use the wifi for hours.

    Luckily, our departure gate was right below the lounge, so we hung out there until it was time to get ready to board.

    Our flight was late leaving, but we eventually got going. The flight was uneventful. I got Evan the kid's meal on our flight which was a great decision because 1) he was served first and 2) it was macaroni and sauce.

    Evan and Brad sat together on one side and I got the aisle seat in the middle row. Brad was given two bottles of wine on the flight (lucky!) and lucky for me, he shared.
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  • Day 1

    Rome, italy

    July 5, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We landed just before 9 am in Rome and deplaned. After snaking our way through the baggage claim area, we found our driver holding a "Brad Bamford" sign! After seeing the chaos of the taxi waiting area, I was so happy that we booked a private car!

    Danielle, our driver, drove us to our apartment. The drive was curvy, fast and no one seemed to obey any kind of traffic law. Nonetheless we arrived and met Elisa who showed us around the apartment.

    After quick showers, we ventured out to the grocery store. We bought fragola (strawberries), yogurt, succa (juice), and meat and cheese. We also stopped at a bakery for bread and a market for peaches. It was incredibly hot and so we just went back to our apartment for lunch (and some AC).

    After some discussion, we agreed to have a short nap. We all slept for about an hour before reluctantly getting up. It was about 2:30 pm when we reemerged.

    We decided to go to the Altere della Patria where we took an elevator to the top to see a panorama of Rome. It was so beautiful! Evan also got to see the Colosseum for the first time as well! He was getting quite sweaty by this point, so we found some shade to sit in for a bit before waking to Trajan's Column.

    We checked out the column and surrounding ruins before walking to the Musei Capitolini. Evan got the audio tour, so between him and Brad I was set to learn about Roman art.

    Some highlights included: Bust of Medusa, the Capitoline Wolf, Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius, and a couple Caravaggios! We spent several hours perusing the entire museum (with several benches along the way).

    By this time, it was nearly 7:30, and I was fame (hungry)! So we walked towards Fish Market Travestere and got a table quickly. We ordered fried baby octopus and shrimp, as well as a curry rice with red shrimp and an octopus and potato salad. I also got sparkling wine, and it was truly an Italian meal! We left very full and very tired.

    Back at the apartment, Evan showered and watched Netflix while I wrote this entry. I'm hoping we can all sleep through the night!
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  • Day 2

    Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Keats

    July 6, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We were able to sleep until 9 am, although Brad and I were up for a bit in the middle of the night because of jet lag. I even had to wake Evan up so we could get going!

    It was another cooker of a day! I'll probably just stop writing that because it's going to be 32c every day. Anyway, we gave up trying not to look like tourists and bought iced coffees AND walked around with them (no one does that here). Evan tried to keep cool by sucking on the huge spheres of ice that cooled our drinks.

    We walked to the Trevi Fountain, which Evan was familiar with from Lego. It was crowded and the police kept whistling at people who dared to sit on the edge, but despite the chaos it was really a sight to behold! Evan commented on how big it is and how he didn't expect it to be so large.

    After a few photos, we made our way to the Spanish Steps and took more touristy photos. Luckily the fountain was working, so Evan got in line to fill his water bottle.

    We walked over to the Keats- Shelley House, which will be meaningless unless you have some familiarity with the Romantic writers. I often teach poetry by Keats, Shelley, and Byron so it was really interesting to see letters written by them and to see the house that Keats died in.

    It was near noon by now and so we started our long walk back to our apartment for lunch and some R&R.
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  • Day 2

    Bruno and Travestere Food Tour

    July 6, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    After lunch and a nap, we decided to go to Campo do Fiore to see the statue of Giordano Bruno who was burned at the stake for believing the earth revolved around the sun. There is usually a market around the statue, but it has wrapped up before we arrived. The square marks the spot where he was burned alive and where many people were executed. Apparently that's how many hotels in the area got their start as these executions were entertainment.

    We walked a bit further to meet our tour guide for our food tour. His name was Luca and he would guide us for the next 3.5 hours around the foodie neighbourhood of Travestere, which is the neighbourhood we are staying in.

    There were only 8 of us on the tour, so it was a great group. We started at a cheese shop that is so well known that there is no signage. We sampled so many cheeses! Parmigiana regiano, pecorino romana, buffalo mozzarella, and burrata to name the few I remember. We also had prosecco to cleanse our palates in between, of course.

    The next stop was a place that serves only baccala- a fried salt cod. It is a typical Roman street food and it was insanely delicious! You have to believe that a place that only serves one dish does it well and this place wad so good that Evan wants to go back tomorrow for lunch!

    A literal farm to table restaurant was our next stop. We had organic wine, toasted breads with a caramelized onion spread and one with a potato and veggie mix. We also had house sausages which were exceptional. The owners actually run the farm where almost all the ingredients are harvested, so the menu changes often.

    We were hardly halfway done when we stopped at a typical pizza joint (rectangles that you fold in half) and had a slice. Evan also wants to return to this place!

    Next stop was a sit down dinner with antipasti and primi courses. We started with bruschetta, melon and prosciutto, and caponata (a mixture of eggplant and celery and seasoned with sweet vinegar). For the primi course we had a sample of both the cacio e pepe and amatriciana, both were delicious! This was our first sampling of Roman pasta too!

    You might think that our tour was over, but we all had a spot of room for gelato! Lucca taught us how to spot the real thing as opposed to the fake gelato and then we got to choose two flavours. I had pistachio and four-chocolate; Brad had crime brûlée and fig, cheese and almond; and Evan had four-chocolate and pure chocolate. It was truly spectacular - Evan said he would never enjoy ice cream again, although I doubt that is true.

    We thanked Lucca and headed towards our apartment with a quick detour at Big Star, which is a bar. We got a table outside and Brad and I had beer while Evan worked on his journal. Another great day in Rome!
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  • Day 3

    Vatican City

    July 7, 2017 in Vatican City ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Brad and I are having a tough time with jet lag as we were wide awake at 2 am again. I eventually went back to sleep around 5 am, but Brad ended up going for a 6 am walk around our neighbourhood. If you were worried about Evan, don't be. He slept for 12 hours straight. In fact, he had to be woken up at 10:45.

    After we all managed to roll out of bed, we had "brunch" and I started doing laundry while Brad went to the grocery store. Evan was still working on his journal. Once home, Brad managed to have a brief nap before we had a light lunch. Finally, we were ready to start our day.

    We had Googled the bus route we needed to take to get to St. Peter's Square and we headed to the stop. However two buses came by and neither was the one we needed; in fact, we saw the bus we needed drive right on by. So we tried to follow it on foot and eventually found a stop. We waited there for 45 minutes (this bus was supposed to come every 20 minutes) and it never came back. Finally we just decided to get walking.

    It was about a half hour walk to St. Peter's and I know I said I wouldn't mention the heat, but it was 35c outside! Nonetheless we got into the line to get into the Basilica, which moved fairly quickly. Evan chose to stand by the fountain until he absolutely had to join us in line. I should also mention that the boys both had to wear pants today because we were worried that the fashion police might kick them out of the church for not being dressed appropriately!

    The Basilica was bigger than I thought it was going to be and it was very ornate. I don't quite understand the people taking selfies with the sculpture of Jesus dying in his mother's arms, but regardless, we enjoyed actually looking at the ornamentation.

    We left the Basilica and headed, on foot, to a pizza place we saw on Anthony Bourdain's show The Layover. It is called Pizzarium Bonci and it has really unique toppings, although there are no signs to tell you what's what. Brad bravely pointed at four kinds and our best guess is that they were: traditional margherita; spinach, anchovy and cheese; eggplant and a soft cheese; and a smoked ham (Evan's pick). All were delicious! We ate them standing outside at a small table and Brad and I split a bottle of wine that the cashier uncorked for us. We had to eat somewhat quickly because we had Friday night Vatican tickets reserved!

    Normally at the Vatican, you have to wait in this insanely long line for hours to get in. I found out a few months ago that they use a ticketed reservation system on Friday nights, so I booked us in awhile ago. Hardly a line and almost no real wait - it was a lifesaver.

    After getting through security, we went through the various rooms of the museum and saw Egyptian sarcophagi, Greek and Roman statues, and huge floor to ceiling tapestries. The main event was seeing the Sistine Chapel of course! I had seen it years ago, but it was so crowded that it was nice to actually sit and really take in the ceiling and back wall. Of course you can't take any pictures in there, so I have none to post!

    We spent about two hours in the museums before calling it quits. We decided to walk back home, but not before we had a gelato stop. Today, Evan got pure chocolate and creme brûlée. It was interesting to see our neighbourhood on a Friday night as there were so many people out and about. I think we will check out the nightlife at the Tiber River river walk tomorrow night. For now, though, I need to rest my feet!
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  • Day 4

    Sleeping Late and Bus Adventures

    July 8, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I should probably mention that our apartment is in the basement and all our windows have shutters, which maybe explains how we all slept in until 11 am today. Yikes! Obviously our baking in the sun and walking so much yesterday wore us out.

    We had breakfast and then showered and made a game plan. We would attempt public transportation again. I should also mention that the transit drivers here go on strike frequently and without warning and sometimes only for a day. Nonetheless, Tram 3 was going to take us across the city.

    We waited for Tram 3 for 15 minutes. Then Bus 3 came by on the opposite side, so we shrugged it off and continued to wait. Tram 8 came by about every 5 minutes, but not the elusive 3. Then Bus 3 came by on our side of the street and that's when we figured out the Tram was not coming and this Bus was running its route. But we'd missed the bus. Not to be deterred, we waited and waited until Bus 3 came back and we hopped on.

    Things were going well until halfway through our ride, the driver just stopped and told everyone to get off. I'm sure there might have been a reason, but he didn't speak English and we didn't get enough of the Italian. So, it seemed like most passengers were waiting around and so we just waited too. Eventually a new Bus 3 arrived and took us to where we needed to go. Honestly this bus nonsense took us two hours.

    We finally arrived at the MACRO, which is a contemporary art museum that had a street art exhibition going on. It was well worth the hassle because we got to see huge pieces by Swoon, Sheppard Fairey, and Ron English. It was a great show!

    After the gallery, we walked to Eataly which is a big grocery store/restaurant. We perused all the food items and wished we were headed home sooner so we could buy some of the cheese and meat! We settled for a quick bite and drink in the outdoor cafe instead. Evan ordered a sundae that was bigger than his head! Brad and I had Italian draft beer and shared a mortadella and Gorgonzola panini, which was oozing with cheese.

    Satiated, we were ready to face the bus again. We could take one of three buses, and the 40 came first. It was packed! I barely made it on and another guy pushed on after me! We were wall to wall, but we only had to make it three stops before we could get off and breathe again!

    We got off in the Campo di Fiore neighbourhood and went down a few back alleys to reach Baladin, a place that makes their own craft beer, sodas and burgers. They are also known for their fresh made potato chips, so we started with the cacio e pepe chips. We all ordered burgers and were asked if we wanted them raw, medium, or well done. I was feeling risky and got mine medium while the boys had theirs medium well. I also had a hazelnut porter, which was excellent!

    Completely full, we walked towards our apartment stopping briefly at the outdoor theatre which was showing Aladdin (dubbed in Italian, subtitles in English). It was impressive not only how many people were at the outdoor theatre, but also the number of people in the streets and restaurants. The evenings here are a beautiful reprieve from the heat of the day!
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  • Day 5

    Excavations, Pantheon, Piazza Navona

    July 9, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our day began leisurely, it's Sunday after all, and after lunch we walked down to the tram and caught the number 8. We knew it would come because we saw it like a dozen times yesterday!

    Our first stop was the Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini, which is right beside Trajan's Column. Brad found this site in one of our tour books and I would certainly recommend it to everyone! It is a 90 minute tour of an excavation site where they unearthed a 4th century (ACE or AD for the older generations) Roman dwelling! You get to walk on these see-through platforms while lights illuminate what the voice over is speaking about. You weren't allowed to take pictures, but it was so cool! We saw the baths, how they heated their sauna room, their entry way, and their outdoor pool. We also got to see the parts of the Renaissance home that was built on top of it in the 1500-1600s. We were very pleased with having found this tour!

    Next we wandered over to the Pantheon and joined the hordes of tourists. Seriously, today was like THE tourist day. I'm not sure there were any Italians around! Anyway, we got to see the beautiful domed ceiling and took a few photos and got out rather swiftly.

    Brad then steered us towards Piazza Navona to see the huge fountains. It was shady and a good place to cool off before starting back towards our apartment. By luck, I saw a bike that said Roscoli and commented to Brad that I had marked Roscoli's as a place to go. Sure enough, the storefront was just a few paces away! So we ducked in and the man working was incredibly nice to us. He helped us pick out bread and two traditional pastries. One was like a hand pie filled with a sweet ricotta and cherries and the other was like a meringue with hazelnuts. Just what we needed to fuel our walk home.
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