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Camino De Santiago
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May – Jun 2022

Camino De Santiago

Léon to Santiago via the Frances Way Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 19, 2022
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    Camino Training

    February 1, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Here’s my training regimen that I got from Camino Ways the scheduling service that I engaged for lodging, some food, suitcase transport and a ride from Madrid to Léon. In hind sight it solidly prepared me without over doing and risking injury. I also did Peloton for 2 months prior to promote cardiovascular fitness and Knees Over Toes to strengthen my upper legs.

    Week 1 – walk three days for between 45min and 60 min, Tue Fri and Sun
    Week 2 – walk 4 days, 45 to 60 min, Tue, Thur, Sat, Sun. Core & leg daily with stretch
    Week 3 – walk 4 days 3 at 60 min Tue, Fri, Sat, and Sun walk for 2 hrs
    Week 4 -Walk 3 days up and down hills 60 min, Tue, Fri, and Sun
    Week  5 – 4 days walking. Tue 60 min fast 6km hr, Wed 45 easy, Fri 60 moderate, Sun 2.5 hrs in hills
    Week 6 – try to add a Pilates or yoga class once a week, this will help your back and core.  4 days walking. Tue 60 min fast 6km hr, Wed easy 60 min, Fri fast 60 min 6km hr, Sun 3 hrs in hills with a light backpack, less than 4kg.
    Week 7 – Same as week 6 with 60 or 120 min easy on Wed.
    Week 8 – 4 days walking. Tue moderate 70 min, Thur fast 60 min 6km hr, Sat 2 hrs in hills, Sun 3 hrs in hills with light backpack, less than 4kg
    Week 9 – 4 days walking. Tue and Thu easy 60 min, Sat 2 hrs in hills aim for 4km hr total of 8km, Sun 4 hrs in hills 16km with light backpack, less than 4kg
    Week 10 – Tue easy 60 min, Thu fast 60 min 6 km, Sat 2.5 hrs in hills 10 km, Sunday 5 hrs in hills 20km with light backpack, less than 5kg
    Week 11- Tue easy 45 min, Thu moderate 60 min, Sat easy 3 hrs with backpack aim for 10km, Sun 5hrs with your backpack of about 5/6 kg – aim for 20km.
    Week 12 – Take it easy, Tue fast 60 min, Thu moderate 30 min, Sat 2hrs in hills, Sun 90 min easy in hills – both Sat and Sun with your backpack about 6 kg.    Read more

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    Preparations for the Camino

    April 12, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    It’s Wednesday, April 13 just a little bit more than a month to go. I’ve wanted to do the camino DeSantiago after having inspiration from Sam and Chelsea‘s camino De Portuguese And after watching The Way. Previously I had wanted to do the John Muir trail, but it’s a little bit more technical, a little bit more rugged, and a lot more out there, and so it’s a little bit more intimidating. I started preparation by walking back in November and I immediately started to have trouble with my knees. After researching how to strengthen my knees and how to relieve the load on them by choosing footwear and knee braces and hiking poles, Reducing my load, reducing my weight, and altering my hiking style I was able to so far condition without irritating my knees. I’ve been a regular site on our neighborhood streets in our nearby Carkeek Park. I’ve also tried to be consistent in attending the American pilgrims on the camino Puget Sound chapter hikes and meetings which have been a wealth of knowledge and a welcome source of support.

    Since early February I’ve been hiking four days a week and conditioning on the off days. Currently I’ve been hiking about one hour three days a week and then I’m up to about three hours of hiking on the fourth day which is usually Sunday. This is also giving me the opportunity to test out various parts of my kit.    Read more

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    Itinerary!

    May 4, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    I got my final Itinerary from Camino Ways. I’ve been a little nervous since they had said I would get it 30 days prior to my start. But this year is a extended holy year with many more pilgrims walking that in an average year. So, making arrangements must have been more complex plus there were many accommodations still closed along the route due to Covid-19. So here’s my itinerary which in general is almost exactly what I expected. However, there was one moderate change to the first day on the Camino. Instead of overnighting in Mazarife, I will be 9.3 km further West in Villavante. This effectively shortens my next leg to hospital de Orbijo To only about 3.5 km. I’ll need to decide if I’m going to try to hike the extra 9.6 km. I had already thought to take a taxi from Leon to La Virgen Del Camino because that stretch is only an industrial area and not very scenic. Apparently I will be able to call from a bar in MazaRife for a ride if I need it so it depends on how I feel.Read more

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    Tuesday stroll, 1 hour

    May 10, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Wow! It got really nice! Great easy workout. T minus 9 days and counting. Today is practice pack up.

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    Six days to go.

    May 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    5.47 miles in 2 hrs.
    Today I hiked down to The Puget Sound. I needed to choose a stone for The Cruz Ferro. If you don’t know what that is, you need to watch the movie The Way with Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez. The Spanish word for rock is Piedra, which comes from Peter who was the rock of the church. You carry your rock on the Camino and when you get to the Cruz Ferro you lay your burden down both literally and figuratively. It is a small mountain of rocks with a large pole with an Iron cross (Cruz Ferro) at the top. I also got my scallop shell set up. Thank you Michelle Fitzgerald. The scallop shell was used to prove that the pilgrim reached Finisterra….the end of the Earth. It is said that when St. James’ remains appeared on the Galician shore, it was covered in scallop shell. It is the symbol of the Camino Pilgrim and of the Camino. Anyone harassing a pilgrim displaying the scallop shell is excommunicated by Papal decree.

    It comes from near an ancient oyster pen kept in The Puget Sound by the Duwamish First Nation. This nation freely welcomed and supported white settlers to the area, but has never been recognized by the US government. Seattle is named for the Chief who decreed the welcoming and support. I pray the federal government will right this obvious wrong and carry my rock and their burden to Cruz Ferro.

    It’s is common to wish a peregrino “Buen Camino”.
    Buen Camino in Lushootseed is “haʔɬ sʔibəš” pronounced “Ha_LL Ts Aybash”    Read more

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    T minus 3 days

    May 16, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Hilly 5.6 miles up and down the Broadview hills in about 2 hrs. 15 min.
    In entering Spain, you must be vaccinated. You prove this by carrying your vaccination card and by completing a health form that links your identity, flight, passport and vaccination card. When you do this Spain sends you a QR code to show them when you land. So lots of little check lists.Read more

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    Packing!

    May 18, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Woke up at 4:30 worrying about packing.

    I’m using Trello to manage my various checklists: DayPack (gear I’ll be carrying daily), Rollerbag (clothing, athletic recovery stuff, pharmacy (I took pictures of labels and prescriptions, and each med is in a ziplock), what I’m wearing, electronic document copies, security pouch, and a shoulder bag. Even now, debating on bringing a light summer sleeping bag. I have a silk liner as a barrier for bed bugs (yes). I got a Cotopaxi shoulder bag: it has shoulder straps, but they can be stowed, and compartments. My larger day bag just was too large and too many straps, my Kavu shoulder bag was too odd shaped to get my iPad in. Even now, debating on bringing a light summer sleeping bag. I have a silk liner as a barrier for bed bugs (yes). The whole process is that bane of the Boy Scout: you have it drilled into you to Be Prepared, but if you carry too much, you run the risk of being exhausted on the trail (which can lead to injury) and/or incurring a weight charge for portage. I think I will make a tip of the hat to the sentiment, “The Camino will provide” and leave the sleeping bag. Poor Matt was down with something and could not make it to dinner last night.

    Hope I can sleep!

    The whole process Kind of feels like this:

    https://youtu.be/irzrOh0Ka6o

    I kinda wanna know what the heck is up with the hunting horns…lol

    I have a massage with Meghan Davenport, then pick up and cleaning. Mowed the lawn yesterday and showed Peggy how it works. Also showed her the new hose fittings.    Read more

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    Liftoff!

    May 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    ““When you see someone putting on his Big Boots, you can be pretty sure that an Adventure is going to happen.”
    ― A.A. Milne, Winnie-the-Pooh

    “It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”
    - J.RR. Tolkien

    Do be sure to turn up the volume
    Feels like this: https://youtu.be/lS9XcEEek48

    Looks like this    Read more

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    Connecting in Charlotte

    May 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    There are rocking chairs in the corridors of the airport and a line waiting to be seated in them. It’s been so long since I traveled across the country. I had forgotten how generally unpleasant it is. Maybe it’s because I wore a mask. Definitely in the minority….maybe 1-2%Read more

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    We’re not in Kansas anymore Toto!

    May 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Peg woke up at zero dark thirty and got me down to SeaTac. Headed off losing my luggage in Charlotte by asking why my baggage claim didn’t say Madrid! Made it to gate D 18 before realizing I wanted D2. There’s a little Starbucks above a lower terminal in the D wing that was entirely deserted at 5 am, so I had a nice quiet breakfast sandwich without a mask. Going to say I was in the 2% of people who were masked, less in CharlotteBoy it was nice to be only sitting 2-4-2 across in Premium Economy, rather than 3-6-3 in coach. Madrid airport makes any airport in the US seem tiny. It serves incoming flights from Africa, South America, Europe and North America. Mistake número uno….I should have budgeted a few days in Madrid. Besides obviously missing the Capitol of Spain it would have also buffered a late flight, but I was entirely on time. A mile at least of linear moving sidewalk, made it to a bathroom, then four long escalators to an underground train, then up three long escalators, to a Disney maze into passport control, past the four heavily armed soldiers, down two escalators, another maze to Sanitation control to check my Spain issued QR code/health form, had it pointed out that my vaccination card was not EU (which was in the QR code), another maze to a nurse who glanced at my vaccine card in the most cursory way and passed me to baggage claim. Each maze had 20-30 Spanish ladies to keep you headed in the right direction or down the correctly colored line. Got my bag and found my first Spanish amigo, Hector. Hector lives in Léon, but drives his Prius taxi to Madrid. Wow if you want to have a total crack up, watch two guys, neither of whom really speaks the others language try to have conversation during a four and a half drive at 120 km/hr on a windy 2 lane highway racing huge trucks and the odd BMW. Hector has agreed to drive me on Domingo (had to look it up) through the icky side of industrial Léon to a much nicer start in La Virgen. The last hour and a half was through the vaunted Meseta a vast stretch of wheat fields and A LOT of enormous windmills. My impression overall was very similar to driving around Davis or the Northern Sacramento Valley. Large swathes of some purple flower and I lucked out…the poppies are blooming everywhere like mad and they are generally redder than ours.

    I had enough energy to try to walk accidentally happened upon the cathedral and found the Wise Pilgrim recommended Four Lions brewpub in search for the local wheat beer called zerep. Unfortunately they didn’t have very much in terms of a selection I chose an IPA since most of the others were a more common large distribution brand. I got pan y jamón as an included tapas. A lady started choking and I was able to help a little. On the way back I got talked into a tapas and wine dinner by Ishmael and Tyrep (from Turkey)    Read more

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    Casa Botines

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    A house built by master architect Antoni Gaudi. (I would go on to visit the Gaudi castle in Astorga, the Sagrada Familia, Park Gruell, and Casa Botlla in Barcelona. Many consistencies with parts of those works.). He was a true master incorporating key influences from Nature, the Catalan culture, and Catholicism. He never married and was a very private individual and devout Catholic. He was the only person to have spoken Catalan in the presence of the King and not immediately severely beaten. He tended to prefer an almost ascetic existence and his clothes were old and worn. In his seventies, one day he was hit by a city tram in Barcelona. Because of his unkept dress he was taken to a paupers hospital where he languished, untreated for several days. A wealthy benefactor happened to be volunteering in the hospital and recognized Gaudi, but though the city battled mightily to save it’s most famous son, he passed away. Luckily, he had just completed the Nativity entrance to the Sagrada Familia and had left detailed plans and models for its eventual completions over 200 years later.Read more

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    Cathedral de Leon

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    The cathedral of Léon is a complex, layered gem. Originally, it was the site of Roman baths upon which a Romanesque church was built. Over time, it was rebuilt. An earthquake destroyed one of the towers, necessitating a repair in a different type of stone. The city council of Léon built an enormous marble altar that completely unbalanced the underlying structure. The building started to come apart and churchgoers reported popping and cracking sounds over the course of years. When serious cracking and separations became too apparent, a master architect was engaged. He determined the cause was the massive altar, which was dismantled. Then, he had to recalculate all of the arch systems in the roof and devise repairs. The windows had to be dismantled and placed into boxes for almost 50 years and, once the structure was repaired, cleaned and replaced. It was one of the greatest conservations ever undertaken.Read more

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    The legionnaires left foot

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    this is a cast of a sandal of a Roman legionnaire set into the Calle Ancha in Leon. The Roman legions always started campaigns on their left foot. It is significant as Leon was a large fort built to protect gold shipments coming from Galician gold mines West of here en route to Rome. Here it marks a wall of the Roman fort.Read more

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    Museum and the Paradores Hotel San Marcos where Tom treated his friends to a luxury over night
    El PeregrinoTwo tired guys

    The Peregrino statue at the Igl.SanMarco

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    The Paradores is a museum and luxury hotel that was in the Movie The Way where Tom treats his friends to a luxury overnight. At the Peregino stautue in the square I met Frank from Ireland. He lived in LA for a year and has family in Thousand Oaks and Temple City! He’s sectioning from Burgos to Astorga.Read more

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    Leon on foot

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    I was walking through Léon today. My big achievements, besides the places I visited, were to buy fruit from a local vendor (cherries and apple) and bread, cheese, and chorizo (sliced personally by abuelo) at a family owned bodega. Many families walking about all dressed up. I assumed from the special clothing it might be first communion. Also walked past a group of people formally dressed with caps and Medieval looking garmentsRead more

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    Glad i trained in Seattle

    May 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Looks like the first day on The Way will be interesting…

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    La Virgen Del Camino

    May 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Here’s where I start! Becky, my advisor from my APoC (American Pilgrims on the Camino) drilled into me, “If you have a choice always go left!” So, 100 meters in, that’s what I did!

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    Molino Galoches near Villavente

    May 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    A nice little meson rural. The stream passes directly under the main house with windows in the floor to watch the stream. Good start. Tossed and turned all night, little to no sleep, but got up early and got mostly set. Quick in line for breakfast to beat the large crowd of older touristas. The front desk called Hector for me and got me to La Virgen in good order by 9:00 am. This is the last of the maseta (vast undulating, seemingly never ending wheat, barley and rape). I skipped the section in Leon because it is heavy industry and not very pleasant. Took the long detour through Mazarife where I had lunch at Meson Tio Pepe and the senora was nice enough to figure out that I needed to call Molina Galochas for a ride. My trip plan was for Mazarife, but Molina is 9 more km, a stretch for the first day at 23 km. Might just hit the road late out of Molina for a short 4 km hop to Hospital de Orbigio, my next stop. Overall easy day, very flat to pretty quick pace. I lucked out and the rain hit at midnight and no traces as of daylight. My “buddy” was Nicolas from San Francisco. A senior at Dartmouth and fluent Spanish speaker. The purple flowers I saw on the ride from Madrid were bumblebee lavender (grows wild), thistle and an allium. The ubiquitous poppy is indeed dark red and usually in fallow fields that have been cover cropped. Yellow way markers everywhere!Read more

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    When faced with rocks

    May 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    As you walk, you will, from time to time, be faced with small obstacles called rocks. Some are quite small and can actually ease the way, being easier on the feet than hard highway pavement. However, others may be large enough to cause a serious injury, sometimes we refer to them as Ankle Biters. Generally, most walkers will steer to avoid these obstacles. In my Scouting travels I learned a fun game from my hiking buddy and fellow Scout leader, Jim Meyer.

    One may line up the offending rock on approach, adjusting stride so that the foot locates just left or right of the rock. There are several moves possible. With your right foot on the right side of the rock, As you pass over the rock, You could flip your foot to the left, pushing the rock off to the left side of the road. Alternatively, placing the right foot on the left side of the rock, flipping your boot toe to the right as you begin to lift your foot, the right foot clears the rock to the right side. These moves can be mirrored by the left foot if timing and stride are more optimal. You can also just go for a soccer kick in some forward direction. I have found achieving some competency here to be satisfying in several ways. Since you’re moving, It’s actually fairly complex and learning does involve entertaining failures. But also consider that by clearing an obstacle, you can leave the way clear for other travelers behind you. It’s a good deed that can be done several times a day.

    It reminds me of this sentiment by J. R. R. Tolkien:

    “It is not our part to master all the tides of the world, but to do what is in us for the succour of those years wherein we are set, uprooting the evil in the fields that we know, so that those who live after may have clean earth to till. What weather they shall have is not ours to rule."    Read more

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    Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigio

    May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The inn keepers Mercedes and Maximo of Molino Galoches were delightful hosts. They grabbed my bag and hauled it upstairs together (likely they are septuagenarians), “No, no! We give servicio de España!” A enjoyable dinner (veal culets, vegetables, salad and a nice Rioja red wine. Finished with flan!) with four Brits and a Singaporean woman. Breakfast was toast and apple jam with strong cafe negro. Taxi with the Brits back to Mazarife to cover there to Villavante. The Way was flat roadside rising only to overpass train or highway, one other highway to cross directly. 10-15 mph headwind from the West, sunny but cool, then on to Hospital de Orbigio arriving at noon and lunching at the top rated Bar El Puente. A “tortilla”, more a potato and egg frittata with cafe negro con azucar. Some amazing chickens here and Euro elevator Tom Jones and Julio Iglesias.

    “You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. You’re on your own. And you know what you know. And YOU are the one who’ll decide where to go…” – Dr. Seuss    Read more

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    El Puente de Orbigio

    May 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    In 1434 a Leonese knight by the name of Don Suero de Quinones found himself hopelessly in love with the lady Leonor de Tovar. A love that she did not return. Somehow, Don Suero convinced himself that if he and his friends could “defend” the Puente (bridge) at the Orbigio River by breaking 300 lances. Leonor would realize that he was the knight for her and return his love. He let the challenge be known far and near and was said to have booked 700 jousts.
    He and his friends broke 166 lances, but incurred injuries so serious they couldn’t continue. Defeated, he sought penance for his failure by pilgrimage to Santiago. To this day, they have a terrific yearly festival with jousts. Everyone is dressed in Medieval costume and La Puente is adorned in banners, flags, and pennants.    Read more

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    Hospital Orbigio to Astorga

    May 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    After a few miles of Maseta we’re in rolling hills. Very similar to the Santa Barbara back country, but with
    alternating planted forests, wheat, and scrub oak stands. A pilgrim run camp station saves the day. The best part was the guitarist.Read more

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    Astorga

    May 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    First real uphill/downhill. Very chilly 41F and as of 12:30 it’s only 50F….snow falling about 5 miles up The Way

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