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  • Camino Francés TerryH

LEAVE IT ON THE CAMINO

Camino Francés
Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Leer más
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    Day 23 Trabadelo to Las Herrerias

    26 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 23 Trabadelo to Las Herrerias 10km

    I woke at 5.30 am, after a great night’s sleep in the comfortable Camino Y Leyenda. Breakfast was being prepared, and the lingering smell from the kitchen was appealing.
    I has planned 10 km today, in preparation for the ‘BIG CLIMB’ tomorrow.

    Today's stage could have been walked yesterday, but a little rest leaves me feeling refreshed and revitalised.

    The Main Street path, leads me, numerous times, under a huge viaduct. Although the surrounding landscape is beautiful, this huge cement construction could have easily distracted my attention.

    La Portela de Valcarce owes its name to being the access point to the Vega de Valcarce.
    I spotted a gate where feudal lords, of the past, charged a ‘portazgo’ to travellers who wanted to cross the valley (pilgrims included), something like what today would be a toll on a motorway.

    Almost next to Portela is Ambasmestas. It is called 'augas mestas' because the Burbia and Valcarce rivers converge within its walls.

    A couple of kilometres later and I arrived in Vega de Valcarce. This charming town serves as the primary entry point to Galicia from Castile, an area that was once exploited by criminals and bandits during the reign of Roman rule. They assaulted passing travellers, primarily pilgrims and merchants.
    For this reason, fortified surveillance sites were established to control the area.

    In medieval times, the Lords (Lordship) were responsible for gathering rites of passage. To ensure the safety of the pilgrims, two important mediaeval castles of Santa Mara de Auctares and Sarracan were occupied by knights of the Order of the Temple. Of these 2 castles, only that of Sarracín, from the 14th century, is preserved, having been built on top of a small castle constructed in the 10th century by Sarracín, son of Count Gatón

    After passing the castle, I made my way to Las Herrerias via a short climb.
    The town's name was derived from the four blacksmiths (one still visible), who worked with metals from the mountains of the area.

    Las Herrerias proudly looks over the Valcarce River where a set of buildings, called La Herreria exhibit small houses, the original blacksmith shop and an old mill displaying the machinery that replaced the previous hydraulic installation. The town, which is surrounded by rounded mountains and lush vegetation, evokes a sense of tranquillity and connection with nature for all passing pilgrims.

    A quote, I heard last night, is etched on my mind.
    “Losing fear frees a man, and makes him capable of reaching the truth”    Leer más

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    Day 24 Las Herrerias to Fillobal

    27 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Day 24 Las Herrerias to Fillobal 25 km

    Once again, as it seems to be every day, I am up and out of the hostel at 5.30.

    I’ve now walked more than a million steps.

    My journey today, takes me through breathtaking landscapes that encompasses lush valleys, gently rolling hills, and charming villages. It spans over 25 km.

    In the first hour, I had climbed over 2000 ft. It was tough on my whole body, excruciating on my hips and both shins were throbbing. I had to push through the pain barrier - one step, two steps……….

    As I gradually ascended the next hill, my eyes encompassed the magnificent surroundings.
    Suddenly, my body felt lighter, and my steps were less painful.
    Miracle of the day.

    The hamlet of ‘O’ Cebreiro, a hobbit-style settlement, is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery and a rich cultural heritage. Is was worth the climb to get there.
    Pilgrims say it offers a captivating glimpse into rural life, with its famous traditional thatched stone houses and fairytale-like charm.
    As this location holds historical significance and exhibits a distinct atmosphere, a significant number of pilgrims strategically plan this stop when establishing their route along the Camino Frances pilgrimage trek.
    Adding to the allure of ‘O’ Cebreiro is the hearty Galician dishes and warm hospitality.
    I was not disappointed.

    After lunch and refreshments, I had another long and difficult ascent that would bring me to Alto do San Roque.
    Most of the way up, it was so foggy, I saw nothing.
    Once I reached the top, there was an impressive statue of a pilgrim, standing 20ft tall. Apparently, the views from this spot are breathtaking, but not today.

    Following a short stop in the aforementioned fog, I started to work my way down, and suddenly realised I was now in Galicia.

    The final push to Santiago de Compostela had started. I became very emotional.

    As I pressed on for the remainder of the day, the fog started to lift, exposing the magnificent view of the surrounding area. The forests were thick with small, integrated settlements. Everything was lush, thanks to the yearly torrential rains that hit Galicia. I observed numerous small churches situated in uninhabited areas, many of which were equipped with bells that could be rung from the outside.
    Had it been used, in the past, as a messaging system to alert others of danger?

    There is a Pilgrim ‘tradition’ that one has to ring a bell of their choice. I decided to do this at the Church of San Juan near Fonfria.

    I eventually worked my way along another long stretch of The Camino Frances and arrived in Fillobal. 8 hours climbing and walking.

    A pilgrim saying - The Beast was put to the sword.

    Foot soak, muscle cream, a bite to eat, and an early night. I am exhausted, sore and weary.    Leer más

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    Day 25 Fillobal to Samos

    28 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 25 Fillobal to Samos 17 km

    The Camino now guides me towards the direction of Sarria.
    Along the way there are a chain of small towns of Jacobean tradition: A Balsa, Montán, Pintín, Calvor and San Mamede do Camino.

    My planned route includes the 'Samos variant', with promises of beautiful landscapes and numerous examples of popular Galician architecture.
    I continued along the river bank, towards San Cristovo do Real. This village has an ancient church - San Cristovo. It looks extremely grand in its simple surroundings.

    Again, I have to cross a few bridges and, surprisingly, one has a laundry room as its central point! Bizarre.

    I progressed, and was met with the most magnificent area of lush chestnut trees. Absolutely stunning.

    After passing Renche, Lastres and Freituxe, I reached San Martiño do Real where a series of steep descents led me to tonight’s abode, Samos.

    I am delighted to arrive and quickly have a well-earned siesta.    Leer más

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    Day 26 Samos to Barbadelo

    29 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 26 Samos to Barbadelo 17 km

    I experienced one of the deepest sleeps I have had during my pilgrim walk. It's possible that the hostel's relaxed and chilled atmosphere is the reason.

    Although, along my journey, it may be unappealing, a thin linen sleeping pouch has safeguarded me from the widely discussed bed bugs. It makes me itch just thinking about it.

    I set off at a later time, 07.30. The path today was mostly level under my feet.

    Yesterday, I posted a picture of the famous village monastery.
    In addition to serving as a hostel, the monastery offered pilgrims a ‘healing service’. They have a wide selection of essential drugs: ointments, plasters, and medicines made from the plants in their garden. Since the 17th century, these homemade remedies have been available at chemists and primitive pharmacies, serving the local population.

    The highlight of the 17 km walk today was strolling across a mind-provoking 12th-century bridge, named the Aspera Bridge (it crosses the Celeivo River).
    Over the course of almost a millennium, how many people have trodden its weathered surface? Humbling thought.

    Before reaching my destination, I arrived in Sarria, a charming city nestled in the heart of Galicia. It is known for serving traditional Galician food, such as pulpo a la gallega (octopus), empanadas (savoury pies), and hearty local wines.
    The imposing Benedictine monastery of Magdalena, a relic of Roman architecture dating to the 13th century, commands the skies above the city.

    The serene atmosphere was conducive to moments of reflection and contemplation.

    Due to the high number of pilgrims, I decided to leave Sarria and walk another few km to Barbadelo.

    As I cuddled up in bed, my thoughts wandered over the last 26 days.
    It seems surreal.
    I will have the opportunity to sit with Annie in Santiago de Compostela and relive the experience and reality of my journey.    Leer más

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    Day 27 Barbadelo to Portomarín

    30 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Day 27 Barbadelo to Portomarín 18 km

    Today's hike is another 18 km.
    I am taking the classic route to Portomarín, through the picturesque Galician countryside.
    In the hallway, I encountered a charming lady of 80 years of age. She explained that she was apprehensive walking in the darkness and therefore intended to wait until sunrise. “Why don't you join me?" I asked. "Thank you, I will," she replied and we proceeded, with the aid of a headlamp.

    In the past, I have encountered individuals who speak and talk and talk. With my companion this morning, it would be necessary to multiply the word 'talk’ by 10. She walked fast and talked faster for the entire 18 km journey. I was now acquainted with her life history, including the names of her mother and father, the special marriage she had with her deceased spouse, and the reason behind her annual attempt to conquer the Camino de Santiago (in honour of her beloved husband), who passed away, unexpectedly, at the age of 46. She had truly never recovered from his death. The only occasion she had peace within her mind was on her yearly pilgrim walk. I felt her inner pain, loneliness, determination, courage, and faith.

    A delightful addition to my growing ‘Pilgrim Family’.

    Milestones that display the remaining distance to Santiago indicated I was approaching the 100 km cairn. I was overwhelmed with emotion, filled with excitement and satisfaction.

    I eagerly walked among the ancient stone walls and small clusters of chestnut trees, and subsequently entered the hamlet of A Brea.
    My companion completely ignored this important sign and continued to inform me about her cattle, sheep, and chickens.

    Ecstatically, I approached the exit and there, in front of me, was the cairn, indicating that there was only one hundred kms left to reach Santiago.
    My friend proceeded straight past it and continued her story.

    Shortly after passing through Casa Morgade, I entered a charming wooded passageway adorned with vibrant leaves, some of which gracefully descended to the path below. From here, I began the steep descent into the small village of Ferreira, followed shortly by Mirallos, which will line the descent to A Pena.

    A Pena is a town land with no more than twenty stone houses scattered throughout the beautiful meadows. The corredoiras (neighbourhood roads marked by stone walls) help me navigate the walled fields and leave behind almost 660 km.

    After passing the houses of Moutrás, the road descended by way of a paved track, leading to Parrocha and Vilacha. From here, the descent became more pronounced towards the banks of the Miño River. I crossed the river and found a steep sloped staircase that led into Portomarin.

    Today's walk proved to be a pleasant and enjoyable experience, offering exceptional views of valleys, forests, small hamlets, and a dearth of cafés. NO, NOT ONE.
    It was 18 km without a break, refreshments, or tapas!
    I was certain that my fellow pilgrim would need something to soothe her throat, but it was obvious that this was not one of her requirements.

    There may be an opportunity for a refreshment enterprise on this part of the Camino.

    My goal today was to reach my destination as soon as possible and carry out my daily routines, such as foot bathing, laundry, tapas, and, more importantly, watching the Ryder Cup.
    It is the first time I have been unable to fully immerse myself in this important event for three to four days.

    All arranged and I was sitting in the sun, unbelievably happy and extremely content. A beautiful, peaceful setting for such good viewing, then…..
    “Terry, I thought I would join you to watch golf. The youngest son of my husband’s brother, who is 40 years old, is married to Teresa. They exchanged vows shortly after the birth of their first son, and now they have three children". She takes a deep breath and says, "Where was I? Brian plays off 8. Great golfer. Who is that teeing off"?

    Ryder Cup with a difference, but I appreciated and loved every moment.    Leer más

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    Day 28 Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    1 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Day 28 Portomarin to Palas de Rei 24.1 km

    Leaving Portomarin, alone at 5.30 am, I crossed an ancient footbridge over the Rio Torres.

    Having walked along a country path for several km, the uphill climb commenced and continued for a couple of hours.

    My mind was drifting to the final stage, but I had to stay focused on this part of my journey.
    Today’s route would take me through many hamlets and small villages, all with their own story to tell.
    Ascending and descending had again entered into my pilgrim walk.

    Today, it seemed very quiet and almost lonely without my fellow pilgrim.

    The subsequent few km witnessed the route running parallel to the main road, before deviating towards the small towns of Toxibo and Gonzar, which boast two hostels and a café, only accessible during the summer months.
    The village was named after a Castro (large hill fort). The remains are clearly visible on the hillside.
    I continued my journey to Hospital de La Cruz. As the name suggests, there was once a pilgrim hospital here, but other than giving the village its name, nothing remains of the building.
    A small café served me some delicious tapas and very good coffee.

    A further footbridge crossed the river, then a descent on an old country road,
    I reached Ventas de Naron, and similar to Hospital de la Cruz, this village had a pilgrim hospital, built in the 13th century. This area is believed to have witnessed a battle between Christians and The Moors during the 9th century, wherein the Christians emerged victorious over the Emir of Córdoba.

    After passing a small church and a wooden wayside cross, I steadily climbed the route to Sierra de Ligonde. This is the highest point of this stage, at 756 metres above sea level.
    The views of a lush green valley are breathtaking.

    The majority of elderly residents in the Galician mountains, except for farmers, relocate to larger towns or cities during the bleak winter months to live with relatives.

    Another few hamlets and I approached a sign - Palas de Rey 10 kms.
    I increased my pace as it’s the final day of the Ryder Cup.
    The picturesque hamlets of Portos and A Calzada led me closer to my destination.

    I made my way along the mountain top, my feet feeling tired, heavy, and aching.
    Arriving in Alto de Rosario, I eagerly sought the mountain's viewing point. The day was clear, and the conditions were ideal.
    Suddenly, I saw it in the distance, Monte Pico Sacro, the mountain that overlooks my ultimate destination, Santiago de Compostela.
    Overwhelmed with emotion would be an understatement. It really is in sight. I can literally see the end of my Pilgrim journey.

    I descended into Palas de Rei, and found my hostel and dormitory.
    Now Ryder Cup viewing.    Leer más

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    Day 29 Palas de Rei to Boente

    2 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Day 29 Palas de Rei to Boente 21 km

    This morning, I set off at 06.30 with the intention of reaching Boente, a distance of 21 kms, within a timeframe of 5 hours.

    It has been delightful to depart early in the mornings. I have witnessed the landscape awakening to a new day, and the birds rejoicing at dawn.

    As usual, the path was well-marked and consisted of a wide variety of trail types, some more natural than others.

    It's amazing how the age-old trails work together with the farms or villages they pass through.
    I've sometimes felt a little uncomfortable walking so close to people's homes, but it's likely that the trail existed long before the property was built.

    One of my favourite aspects of the pilgrim walk has been the design of the old churches in the small towns along the way.
    I am uncertain about the current status of these churches, but they serve as a testament to the requirements of the pilgrims during the time when the Camino was truly a journey of faith, rather than a modern-day trek.

    The Spanish cuisine, in this region, is renowned for its delectable 'pulpo' (octopus) and equally tasty 'Tarta De Santiago', a dense almond cake, both of which I had the pleasure of sampling last night.

    Today's walk seemed to be long and repetitive. The climate was humid, with extensive stretches of winding paths and dense pine forests. As I approached Boente, I could not wait to take my shoes off and soak my feet. Hopefully my last few days will not be hampered by blisters, that were attempting to return.    Leer más

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    Day 30 Boente to Salceda

    3 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 30 Boente to Salceda 21 km

    As I had not had much sleep, I was happy to depart from my bunk bed this morning at 5.30 am.

    The pilgrim family (PF) is a group of individuals that you encounter during your pilgrimage.
    You're likely to find at least one PF member in the hostel you pick for the night.
    Throughout my journey, I have encountered pilgrims from various parts of the globe, whether walking alone or in groups, accompanied by young children and / or dogs.

    Carlos, 55 yrs, would join me for a few km walk several days a week, and we would engage in stimulating conversation. Of course, this meant that I was able to spoil his wonderful dog, Abby.

    Yesterday evening, the last of the pilgrims arrived at the hostel around 19.00. They delivered the sad news that Carlos had passed away, peacefully, the night before in his hostel. It shook me to the core and I couldn’t sleep.

    I certainly took advantage of the Camino's excellent opportunity for contemplation and reflection both last night and today.

    Again, the landscape presented a diverse range of terrain, passing through numerous small towns, hamlets, and rural areas. Todays’s Camino proved challenging, as my heart was filled with a heavy sense of sorrow.
    My friend Alison sensed my mood and sent me uplifting music tracks. It undoubtedly helped me through the day. Thank you Ali.

    Annie left early this morning, drove to Seville, then caught a flight to Santiago. Tomorrow, at the end of my journey, we will meet at the Cathedral 0 km milestone.

    She has been pursuing whether Abby, Carlos’s dog, is being cared for after his premature death. I am therefore unsure whether Annie will meet me alone tomorrow or have a companion. We may have an extra ticket to purchase for our journey home.    Leer más

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    Day 31 Salceda to Santiago de Compostela

    4 de octubre de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Day 31 Salceda to Santiago de Compostela 28 km

    I was awake at 3 a.m, too excited to sleep. Lying in bed, I tried to coax my body back into a slumber by listening to music and reflecting on my journey.
    When it was a respectable hour, I got up ready to walk.
    At 5am I got dressed and packed my backpack, mostly in the dark, so as not to wake my roommates.
    By 5.30 I was ready to go. The dawn was just commencing to illuminate the blue-black sky. The moon was bright and a few stars were visible.

    I walked in silence. It was approximately 28 / 29 km to Santiago de Compostela!
    Furthermore, I was hoping to arrive in time for the Cathedral Bells to ring out at noon.

    I had to exert considerable effort to achieve my goal. My newly acquired fondness for music, via my friend Alison, would provide me with a significant boost.
    It was very cold, therefore, I had to stop earlier than planned in order to try and warm up.

    Gradually, the sun's heat began to penetrate into my body. I began to enjoy the warmth, light blue sky and final day ‘euphoria’.

    I had anticipated my thoughts would be overflowing with the task of evaluating the past 30 days. However, it proved to be surprisingly effortless to disconnect from them and allow the music to engulf me.

    The final 28 or 29 km emitted a sensation of 100 km, especially the final two km towards the Cathedral.
    When entering the city, it was quite frustrating, as there was no sign of the Cathedral.

    Suddenly, in between the tall city buildings, I caught a glimpse of one of the Cathedral towers.

    It was 11.45………..! I accelerated my pace. Almost there.
    I started to run, adrenaline pumping into my tired limbs.
    The anticipation had been steadily building throughout the morning, with pilgrims exhibiting a noticeable acceleration in their pace.

    I turned the last corner and Annie appeared in the distance, bounding towards me. She has been my rock and backbone during the pilgrim walk. Throughout my journey, her constant praise, words of encouragement, nightly think tank topics, laughter and listening ear, instilled in me the tenacity to persevere.

    We descended some stairs into the Cathedral square - zero km to go, and as I turned around, there in full view, was the Cathedral de Compostela, a majestic structure, towering above me in all its splendour.

    Midday was announced - The bells started to ring and the choir started to sing.
    I had made it.

    To be eligible for the Compostela Certificate, it is imperative that you have a Camino Passport, officially stamped at every hostel.
    I proceeded to the official office, and after receiving my certificate, it was time for a long, hot bath.

    Later that day we encountered a former Church of Scotland minister, now a Church of England vicar, called Nick the Vic. He was captivated by my fundraising pilgrimage and made a donation. Another individual, Father Leo Schumacher, a missionary in Tokyo, joined us for a coffee and we share stories of our journey. (I met him several times during my 31 days)

    I am totally indebted to all the well wishers whose messages of support, encouragement and prayers gave me the strength to continue. A huge thank you to all who donated to my fundraiser.
    Terry.    Leer más

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    Fin del viaje
    4 de octubre de 2023