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Europe 2022 - 2023
  • David Du Buron
  • EDuBu
  • David Du Buron
  • EDuBu

Europe 2022 - 2023

A 432-day adventure by David & EDuBu Read more
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  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1
    1Dave standing in... a "vacant lot" in SetenilA kids party... We had NO IDEA what the theme was2Dave walking the streets of Setenil21A totally safe cafePretty tiled house under a cliffView across the gorgeSome of the older houses. We later found many of them had chickens inside2A restaurant3More completely safe cafes

    Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain

    February 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Located in the northeast of the province, Setenil de las Bodegas (or just Setenil) is one of the most unique towns in the White Villages of the Sierra de Cádiz due to its particular urban framework. In it, the houses accommodate different levels, placing some under the rock and others on it, configuring cave streets, viewpoints and jaw dropping scenery. I'm not going to lie it's a little nerve racking sitting under these boulders for cafe.

    Seeing Setenil just after Ronda offered an interesting juxtaposition. Ronda saw a gorge and built a magnificent bridge over it. Setenil saw a gorge and saw luxury apartments. 😂

    The current location of Setenil is of medieval origin, preserving today vestiges of its Almohad past in the space of La Villa, although human presence dates from the Neolithic. Of the medieval fortress, the Torre del Homenaje and an underground cistern still stand. In addition, its heritage is completed with the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, in late-Gothic Renaissance style, and the hermitages of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, San Benito and San Sebastián. The Old Town Hall has a magnificent Mudejar coffered ceiling from the 16th century, unique in the province, this town is also part of the so-called Route of the Catholic Monarchs, a route that allows you to discover the historical legacy of Setenil linked to the Christian conquest in 1484.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Near Setenil
    Driving through RhondaDriving through RhondaSetenil, we saw him along the wayDriving through SetenilDriving through RhondaRhondaDriving through RhondaRhondaJust after ZaharaBetween Zaraha and RondaClose to RondaOlivera2Driving back to Seville. Notice the Cathedral in the town on the top leftDriving back to SevilleDriving back to SevilleThis is from a totally different day, but this was on our bus ride from Cordoba to GranadaBus ride from Cordoba to Granada

    Driving through Andalusia, Spain

    February 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    So today we rented a car and drove through parts of Andalusia. It was beautiful. It could give Tuscany a run for its money. Spain is the leading producer of Olives in the world so most of the bushy trees you see with a pale green color will be Olive trees.

    We drove from Seville, southeast towards Zahara followed by Rhonda, Setenil de las Bodegas before taking a different more northerly route home. We passed through Torre Alhaquime, as well as Olivera (see town with the pointy Cathedral at the hippy top). This area of Spain in the Andulicia is known for its rolling hills, majestic mountains and beautiful white washed towns and villages.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Site's Amphitheater
    AmphitheaterStatue of the Goddess DianaA tunnel and weather plaque on the side of the amphitheaterRuins of a public bathWe gathered this was a fountainMosaic floorsInside of the Amphitheater. Part of the missing floor.Passageway inside the AmphitheaterInside the AmphitheaterMosaic floorsEmily and John at the PanaderiaThe "Mosaic of the birds"More Mosaic floors1Titled "Área Termal""Collective Latrine"Plaque near Collective Latrine

    Conjuto Arqueologico de Italia, Seville

    February 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    In the course of the Second Punic War, after the Carthaginian defeat in the battle of Ilipa (206 BC) at the hands of the Roman army led by Publius Cornelius Scipio, a detachment of legionaries was established in a place where a Turdetan settlement was. This is the origin of the Roman settlement named Itálica. Itálica played a prominent role since its foundation and, above all, during the High Roman Empire, as it was the birthplace of Emperor Trajan, adoptive father of Emperor Hadrian. These circumstances procured favorable treatment for it, promoting an outstanding urban and architectural development. Its grandiose amphitheater that was erected is one of the largest in the entire Roman Empire. Funny enough this site is only 15 minutes drive north of Seville in the small town of Santiponce. Many locals to Seville have yet to explore this old Roman city. It was a very interesting site and still well preserved the highlights were the ampitheater, mosaics that were still well intact as well as the bath houses.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Courtyard of the Alcazar
    View from the wall into an inner courtyardA tower on the Alcazar wallThe main gardensThese little guys must have been near feeding time.Inner courtyard2Inner courtyard. Notice the gutters along the walkway. They were very efficient with water usagePorticoesRuins of part of the AlcazarView from a towerMosaic on displayMosaic of Cupid and Psyche1Mosaic: Polyphemus and Galatea. Polyphemus was a Cyclops of Sicily, made famous in the Odyssey1Flower in the garden with amazingly dense petalsMain Gardens with statues. Maybe of Columbus coming to Isabella and Ferdinand, but had no plaque.Full gardens

    Alcazar of Christian Monarchs, Cordoba

    February 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs (or just the Alcazar) in Cordoba was another beautiful royal residence in Spain. It was one of the residences of Isabella and Ferdinand. In fact, Christopher Columbus had his first audience with the royals at this very site.

    The Alcazar started as Visgoth fortress before the Moors conquered this area. I couldn't find many dates regarding the site until 1328. At that time Cordoba was back under Castilian control and King Alfonso XI ordered construction (or reconstruction) of the fortress.

    In 1482, Isabella and Ferdinand turned the fortress into a tribunal of the Spanish Inquisition and stayed that way for three centuries. Around 1486 Christopher Columbus had his first audience with Isabella and Ferdinand here.

    The Alcazar then became a garrison for Napoleon Bonaparte' s troops in 1810 when they occupied Spain. In 1821 it became a prison (nice place to be held captive by today's standards). It didn't become a tourist attraction until the 1950s.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    A central section of the Mosque Cathedral
    The Tower and former Minaret of the Mosque CathedralThe ChoiryThe ChoiryA side ChapelWalls of the side ChapelMost of the space of the Mosque Cathedral looked like thisMore beautiful pillars and archwaysThe AltarThe Tower/MinaretIn the 1936s a lower Christian church was found below the mosque. Basilica of Saint Vincent Martyr2Pillars and ArchesThe back of the AltarThe Cathedral's MonstranceSide altarGiant Mural of St. ChristopherSide AltarSide AltarSeating area

    Mezquita Catedral of Cordoba, Spain

    February 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Cordoba's Mezquita Catedral (Mosque/Cathedral) has to be one of the most unique religious buildings in the world. The Mosque of Cordoba was built by the Moors in 784. After a series of extensions the Mosque came to encompass 23,400 m² and was the 2nd largest middle in the world (at that time). After the Spanish "Reconquista" (the reconquering of Spain from the Moors) the Mosque was handed over to the archdiocese in 1238. Alterations continued, but basic conversion seems to have been completed in the 15th century.

    When we visited the Mezquita Catedral, they had an exhibition of an excavation that occurred I the 1930s. A lower Christian church was discovered under the original Mosque. The "Basilica of Saint Vincent Martyr" would have been built sometime in the 6th Century. It seemed a little bit like a "see we were here first after all." The excavation in the 30s was largely forgotten into the 60s because the Spanish Civil War broke out around the same time.

    Both Emily and Dave agreed this is a top 3 religious building we've ever seen.

    One final note: just as we saw in the Cathedral of Toledo and the Cathedral in Seville, even this Mosque Cathedral had a giant mural of St. Christopher. Perhaps because of the famous Pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago, the patron saint of travelers is a bigger here in Spain than anywhere else we've seen.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The Tower of the Mosque Cathedral
    Plaza MayorTemplo Romano12View of the Mosque Cathedral from outside our AirBnB balconyTorre De Calahorra with the Roman bridge behind itPalace of Congress of CordobaAlcazar of CordobaTriunfo de San Rafael de la Puerta del Puente. Sorta means Triumph of St. Ralph of the brdige gate2Old water Mill in the mostly dried up Guadalquivir riverRoman Bridge of Cordoba. Apparently featured in Season 5 of GoT.Puerta del Puente o Arco del TriunfoCourtyard of the Franciscan Monastery of Cordoba1Plaza de las TendillasTemplo Romano1AlleywayDiorama of what Moorish Codorba may have looked likeChurch of San Francisco and San Eulogio1Inside of Church of San Francisco and San Eulogio

    Cordoba, Spain

    February 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    The origins of Cordoba are lost in the mists of time. Its position by the river and the fertile farming land of the Campiña made it a perfect place for the first prehistoric settlements. However, it was not until the late Bronze Age (8th/9th century B.C.) when the first settlement was established. After the arrival of the Phoenicians and Greeks on the peninsula, the city became known as an important mining and commercial centre, since the River Guadalquivir was then navigable as far as Cordoba. This facilitated the spread of artistic and commercial products and made for easier communication with the main cities of the period. Once the romans left the Visigoths frequented the area for a few centuries later yielding to the Moors. The Moors occupied Cordoba for many centuries up until the 15th when the Spanish reconquista took place. Cordoba today is bustling with tourism and life. It is a beautiful clash of cultures and has numerous historic buildings and monuments that are both grand and beautiful regardless of culture. The Mosque Cathedral of Granada was among one of the most beautiful religious structures Dave and I have seen.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Altar of the Cathedral
    Facade of CathedralCathedral interiorWhite marble interior of the CathedralInterior of the CathedralInterior of the Cathedral1Organ of the CathedralSide altar of the CathedralSide altar of the CathedralCathedral interior2Main altar of the CathedralAltar of the Cathedral from behindAltar of the Cathedral from sideInterior of the CathedralSide altar of the CathedralMain altar of the Sagrario ParishInterior of the Sagrario Parish2Interior of the Sagrario ParishInterior of the Sagrario ParishCeiling of the Sagrario Parish

    Cathedral of Granada and Sagrario Parish

    March 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Construction of the Cathedral began 26 years after Granada exchanged hands to the Catholic monarchs. There are actually 3 separate attached temples in the same "building." The Cathedral itself, the Sagrario Parish, and the Royal Chapel.

    The Cathedral had a beautiful white washed marble interior and beige exterior. The Sagrario Parish was more off white inside, and while smaller, had MASSIVE pillars inside (at least compared to their relative size. For a small Parish it was quite beautiful inside.

    We actually didn't learn about the Royal Chapel unto our last day. Surprisingly Isabella and Ferdinand were entombed in that very Chapel. It must have been their wish to have their final resting place be the place were they completed the work of their ancestors and finished the "Reconquista" of Spain from the Moors.

    I was lucky and found a gap in tourists enough to get a photosphere of the Sagrario Parish Church. The ceilings were amazingly detailed and the pillars were huge and very imposing.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/12rNdbPe9QGNa74L6    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    View of Granada from one of its many hills.
    2Granada, in the background is the Alhambra. Beyond that, the Sierra MountainsDarro River ValleyParish of Ss. Justus and PastorThe city center of Granada across the Darro RiverA hilly street of GranadaOne of the many pebbly and hilly alleys of GranadaIglesia de San Gil y Santa AnaLa Alcaicería Shopping street with the Cathedral behind itEl Bañuelo, an 11th century Arab BathEl BañueloCasa árabe de Horno del Oro. A building showing Moorish architecture3Beautiful public stairs we had to use heading up to our Apt.Walk along the Carrera del Darro2Isabel the Catholic and Christopher Columbus FountainGranada CourthouseMore steps of Granada1Our lunch serenade23

    Granada, Spain

    March 3, 2023 in Spain

    In the 13th century Granada became the capital of the Emirate of Granada under Nasrid rule, the last Muslim-ruled state in the Iberian Peninsula. Granada was conquered in 1492 by the Catholic Monarchs and progressively transformed into a Christian city over the course of the 16th century. This was part of the Spanish conquest by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. They looked to spread Christianity throughout Spain and make Spain an entirely Christian country. This effort was called the "Reconquista." They took Granada from the Moors, which was the very last Moorish stronghold in Spain.

    When Christopher Columbus was looking for a patron to finance his expedition to the East Indies, he actually did also visit with the Moors in Granada. However given that the Catholic Monarchs of Spain were at the doorstep they declined. The city was peacefully handed over, as we already said in 1492. After this handoff in January, Isabella and Ferdinand used the wealth accumulated from Granada to fund Christopher Columbus' expedition. This is why the two dates coincide. At least our tour guide at the Alhambra said so.

    They plundered the treasures of Granada which would later help finance Christopher Columbus maiden voyage to the New World.

    The most important thing to remember when visiting Granada is that it is hilly with steep staircases. Allow for a lot of extra time when walking north or east away from the Carrera del Darro towards the Mirador (viewpoints). Heading south or west can be pretty fast though.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The reflecting pool of the Nasrid Palace
    Porticoes of the Nasrid Palace1One of the main gates of the AlhambraPalace of Charles V2Patio de Los Leones or the Court of the Lions1Other side of the Reflecting PoolOne of the Rooms of the Nasrid PalaceA hallway of the Nasrid Palace1A wall of the Madrid Palace. In the lower left is a close up of the decoration1A painted ceiling added by the Christian Monarchs2Moorish arches and plaster ceilingCourt of the Lions2Close up on the lion fountainA busted ceiling added by the Christians3Emily walking through the gardens off the Convent of San Francisco in the AlhambraPicture from the public area of the Alhambra during the dayA public fountain1Granada at night2A close up of the walls in a throne room of the Emirs. It should be Arabic saying God is GreatVideo showing how 3D the decorations are

    Alhambra, Granada, Spain

    March 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The Alhambra was an authentic walled city built by the Nasrid Kings of Granada, in the last period of Muslim domination in Spain. The palace itself was a walled city to help defend against any invaders. It was a Muslim stronghold secured in the 8th century by the Moorish who originally came from Syria via Morrocco. They secured the southern half of Spain taking it from the Visigoths at the time. They settled in Granada as well as many other cities in southern spain now known as Al-Anduluce. Today the Alhambra is the most visited tourist attraction in all of Spain. We did a night tour which was fabulous and we enjoyed a long walk up to get to the Alhambra which sits atop a hill. We went through and toured the 3 main palaces which were elaborated upon one nicer than the other over time. This palace housed over twenty sultans. At the time the palace was not always a safe place to live. Attire covered everything but the eyes and it was impossible to tell whom you were speaking to. It created a dynamic of mistrust and sultans were in constant fear of being killed off only to be replaced. That being said the Alhambra was a peaceful and solitary feel.

    We visited the Alhambra as a "Night tour." We hadn't done one of these before and some of the lighting effects they curated were very pretty. Not sure if we'll do it again though.

    Photosphere of one of the Alhambra rooms.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/vcrvFPT1798DvUyp6    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    22This was taken by John. The back lighting made it very pretty.1333222122

    Nazaré, Portugal

    March 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Nazaré is a relatively small but famous Portuguese village. Its footprint is 82.43 km² with just under 15k inhabitants.

    This village is famous for having the highest waves in the world and being frequented by surfers. Peak wave season is in December & January so we didn't see anything over maybe 20 feet. But those would have been more than enough for us after our 1 surfing lesson.

    The beach area is naturally partitioned between North and South by a cliff that has an old fortress preached on top called "Farol da Nazaré." It was amazing how the South side was relatively calm, and the North side was filled with massive waves. Even the South side was hazardous when up close. Both Emily and John got a bit more than they bargained for when a wave ended up being a bit more forceful than expected.

    The giant waves on the North beach are actually created by a canyon on the South side of the beach. This underwater canyon causes currents to rush up the side wall and collide with other incoming current to create the massive waves.

    Pictures don't always do waves justice so we ended up taking a few videos. Here is a collection from our time in Nazaré.
    https://youtu.be/MJnzUen20mY    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Tile exhibition in Faro
    1House in FaroHouse and Plaza in FaroHouse in LisbonHouse by the flea market in Lisbon2Apartment building in Lisbon1The entrance to the Military museum2In Lisbon. Writing translates to "I think but I do not exist"Church in Nazare1Hilltop Chapel in NazareChurch interior in NazareBuilding/Restaurant in LisbonFrom the National Tile Museum of LisbonFrom the National Tile Museum of LisbonFrom the National Tile Museum of LisbonFrom the National Tile Museum of LisbonIgreja do Antigo Convento de Madre de DeusIgreja do Antigo Convento de Madre de DeusIgreja do Antigo Convento de Madre de Deus

    Azulejos (Tiles) of Portugal

    March 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Azulejos of Portugal is a tradition that began from their Moorish ties. Muslim art is largely about geometric patterns, and that can be found in their art form "al zellij," which the Portuguese word derives. The earliest known Azulejos came from the 13th century.

    Azulejos can be found on many buildings around Portugal. From cathedrals (inside and out), to archways, to simple apartment buildings, they can be quite beautiful. Enjoy our selection of tiles we've encountered.

    You can learn more about Portuguese Azulejos in this 5 minute video.

    https://youtu.be/OFdnVeMnt70    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    View over Lisbon
    2Feira da Ladra (Lisbon flea market) with the National Pantheon in the backgroundFeira da Ladra (Lisbon flea market) with the National Pantheon in the background3Street in Downtown LisbonMercado da Ribeira2Belém Tower3Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Explorers)1Plaza Praça Dom Pedro IVLisbon from the waterfront2This is Oscar. The unofficial mascot of the Feira da Ladra flea market1Scene from Lisbon1The cable car that brings you up one of the seven hills.Stairs up one of the seven hills1View from one of the seven hills.1Mosaic floor in a park2Arco da Rua Augusta (Arch of Augusta)Miradouro de São Pedro de AlcântaraJerónimos Monastery and the Park of the Imperial Garden2Pastry shop full of Pastéis de Nata. This is how locals carb load for the hills.

    Lisbon, Portugal

    March 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Bom Dia! (Good day)

    Lisbon is the Capital and largest city in Portugal. Historically, it was occupied by many groups over the centuries. Excluding prehistory, it was first occupied by Romans, the successively by successively by Sarmatians, Alans, Vandals, Germanic Suebi, Visigoths (who also ruled most of Spain), then of course the Moors.

    Briefly between 1108 and 1111, Lisbonwas occupied by Norwegian Crusaders before getting taken back by the Moors. Then, the main event. In 1147, Lisbon was conquered by Alfonso I, who would later become the first King of Portugal.

    Lisbon is known as the City of Seven Hills and walking around you'll soon find out why. The steepness of the streets were on par with Granada so it was probably good practice. The good news is that here there are trolleys and cable cars to ease your knees.

    Along the waterfront, there are monuments to the past explorers of Portugal. Monasteries, Cathedrals and Museums are lined with beautiful tile works both inside and out. Lisbon has its own unique style and beauty.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Old Fortress at Night
    More of the FortressGrand Continental Hotel and the Old Fortress2Fish market within medinaOur neighborhood3Our neighborhood1Camels along the coast4Waiting in line for a bite to eat2Olive Shop in the Souk2Cap Spartel Lighthouse1Hotel Continental again with the Old Fortress. Building on the bottom is an old Customs House3Our breakfast at our AirBnB RiadSoul (Market)Near the Petite SoccoBab (gate) Al Fahs and the Grand Socco behind it.Fortress walls from insideMasjid (Mosque) Lalla AboshMarket near the Grand SoccoCaves of Hercules2Caves of Hercules2

    Tangier, Morocco

    March 14, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    -Brief History-
    Tangier started as a Phoenician colony as early as the 10th century BC. From there, Berber tombs were fight dating back to the 6th Century BC. It first became a major port in the 5th Century by the Carthaginians. In the 70s BC Roman gained control of the city and then the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire in 533.

    Then, Tangier fell under Muslim rule under the leadership of Musa bin Nusayr between 707-711 AD. During this time Tangles served as the capital of the "province" of Morocco (Maghreb the native name for Morocco).

    After the Reconquesta in Spain and Portugal, the Portuguese king, Alfonso I led a campaign in northern Africa and conquered Tangier in 1471. In the 17th century, Portugal handed over Northern Morocco rule to the Spainish. It remained that way until it gain independence in 1952!

    Greek legend states that Hercules slept here in Tangier before completing the 11th of 12 trials (stealing a sacred apple). In fact there is a cave here called the Cave of Hercules that is rumored to be where he slept.

    -What Tangier is Like
    SAFE!

    The streets between the Souk (Market) and the Kasbah (Fortress/Castle) is a venerable maze. Our AirBnB was there and I swear we went a different way to and from there each and every day. I still don't know the most efficient path. Besides that, we felt very safe getting lost in these streets. There were many small convince stores all around so we were never really alone. The Petite Socco (small square) is filled with restaurants and coffee shops. The Market proper is loaded with meat, spice and fresh fish markets. It's worth walking around to take it all in. Past that, to south is the "Grand Socco" (large rotary) and more modern clothing stores, restaurants, and places to get your tourist sim card.

    It was a nice beginner Mahgreb city. A place to practice our poor Arabic (really hard language with a lot of subtlety) and practice our polite and respectful behavior (such as not using your left hand for eating or gesturing).

    -Disclaimer-
    I apologize in advance for anytime I lost the auto correct war and Tangier was written as Tangles.

    Shukran (Thanks)!    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Chefchaouen
    7Locals1Lady on the left was smart. She asked for a few coin to everyone who took her pic.Alleyway with minaret in the background1It's blueAl-Hawta Square1Public oven and a local making breadA tripod not doing any work2Alleyway2Souk (market) near the old Jewish QuarterSouk (Market)That tree is a grape vine, amazingly.1Local artist showing their work.1The local "consignment shop"AlleywayStairsNear the ground are the paints used in Chefchaouen6Some dorkAlleyway with a view1Staircase

    Chefchaouen, Morocco

    March 15, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Chefchaouen was originally formed as a fortified city to protect against Portuguese invaders who had invaded north Africa as part of the Reconquista. It later became a popular place for both Muslims and Jews who were fleeing the Iberian Peninsula due to persecution from the Spanish Inquisition.

    Today, Chefchaouen is known as the blue city. According to Wikipedia there are many meanings regarding the blue walls. They cite one possible reason as the "blue keeps mosquitos away." Our guide gave us a much more romantic story. When Jews first came to Chefchaouen they did not settle inside the city walls. They started painting their houses blue as it has a symbolic meaning of the sky and being close to God. Muslims painted their houses white as it helps cool and is associated with serenity (you often see white houses in Morocco and Southern Spain). As Jews continued to live there they started to move inside the Medina walls, thus bringing the blue inside. As some Jewish and Muslims inter-married houses took on a two tone Blue and White look.

    It's no surprise today that the blue and white can be found all over the city today. As Chefchaouen has grown as a tourist attraction it has even now become regulated that any residents who paint any other color can be fined.

    Chefchaouen is truly beautiful. It's unlike any other place you may visit. It's no short drive to get out there, but it is an unforgettable experience.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    13

    Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, Morocco

    March 18, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The small town of Moulay Idriss is in the central north of Morocco and is one of the holiest places in the country. The reason this town is so sacred for the Moroccans is because this is where their islamic kingdom effectively began. The man who the town is named after, Moulay Idriss, arrived here in 789 and brought Islam with him. Today it serves as a destination for pilgrimage in the country. The town itself sits on two hills and has a main plaza situated centrally along with a grand mosque which houses the remains of Moulay Idriss himself. We took in qaiohwa k-hela (black coffee in darija arabic as best as we can spell with english pronunciation) at one of the many cafes and watched the bustle of the market and street. The surrounding countryside is lush and green with rolling valleys, beautiful views and ancient remains.

    As non-muslims, we were not able to enter the sacred mosque. However, someone else on our tour took a video when they went to go pray and they were nice enough to share it with us.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Emily standing between two pilarsArch de TriumphArch de Triumph2This was titled the Acrobat because the rider is backwards1I think this one was called the Mosaic of Dionysus2I think this one was called the Mosaic of the NymphVolubilis with Moulay Idriss Zerhoun in the background

    Volubilis, Morocco

    March 18, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Volubilis was first founded as in the 3rd century BC. At that time it was a Berber settlement, but traces of it becoming a proto-Carthaginian settlement have been found as well. From the 1st century AD onwards it was a thriving Roman city. It fell to local tribes in 285 and was abandoned.

    The founder of the Moroccan Idrisid dynasty, Idris ibn Abdallah did settle here in the 11th century, but then moved to the more defensible city Moulay Idriss Zerhoun nearby (see other post on that city).

    The ruins were largely intact until an Earthquake in the mid-18th century. The wealth from olive production caused many houses to be decorated with fancy mosaic floors that can still be found today.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The Chouara Tanneries
    2Panorama of the Chouara Tanneries1Hides outside the Chouara Tanneries1Leather drying outside the Chouara TanneriesInside the leather good shop2Top floor of the leather goods shopView of Fes from a nearby FortressView of Fes from the "other side" of the leather goods shop2Our AirBnB "Riad" it was absolutely gorgeous inside.2This is Tia, the dog of our Riad. Dave needed a pet as much as Tia did.The fabric dying district of the MedinaPublic fountain in the Medina. It had a date of 1360 at the top.1University of al-Qarawiyyin (Qur'an Study) and oldest University in the world.Emily in the University of al-QarawiyyinCarpenters districtCalled the Henna Square. It used to be filled with just Henna shops. Now it has just normal shops.Shop selling clay pots outside the main Medina1A donkey and an alleywayThe Blue Gate of Fes.1An artisan making tile fragments for Mosaics1Tour of our Riad (Hotel with inside balconies)

    Fes, Morocco

    March 19, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Welcome to Fes. Founded in the 9th Century, it is a former capital of Morocco and a current capital of hand crafted goods and food.

    When coming to Fes, there are two main attractions.

    -The Medina-
    The Medina of Fes was founded in the 9th Century, but reached its heights in the 13th–14th Centuries when Fes was the capital of Morocco. It has 9454 cobbled alleyways and 300 mosques. It's footprint is an intimidating 540 acres. Walking the medina it's clear why Fes is the Morocco capital of handicrafts and cuisine.

    The Medina is pretty well organized. It has many "districts" centralized around a particular craft. We wandered through woodworking souks, leather working souks, wedding and dresses souks, sweets souks, spice and systemic souls, metal working souks (with bronze on one side and copper crafts on the other) and more. Walking the alleyways, you'll get merchants presenting you their wares with loud squaks of chickens meeting their end nearby. It's definitely a place that needs a guide as getting lost would be all too easy and stories of getting miffed in dead ends are all too common online.

    Still it's an amazing place and coming from a country where trade skills are all but gone it gives you plenty to ponder.

    We don't have many pictures from the Medina. Many vendors ask for a few coins for getting their picture taken. While it's not much, it can add up and depends on the number of coins in your pocket at that time.

    -Chouara Tanneries-
    The second main attraction is the leather tannery. Everything we saw online did not prepare me for the sheer size and impressiveness of the tannery. There are many tanneries in Fes but this one is known for its size and made famous by the leather good store that has a terrace overlooking the tannery. The actual age of the tannery is not known, but there is a clear documentation of another tannery in Fes placing it in existence in the early 12th century. Other than that, no dates are known. Leather is obtained from local butchers. Hides of cows, sheep, goats, and camels are brought here to be conditioned and dyed.

    The first stage is conditioning which is done in the "white wash" vats on the left of our pictures. The mixture is made from cow urine, pigeon feces, quicklime, salt, and water. The urine and pigeon feces are used as natural sources of ammonia and the process has done unchanged for hundreds of years. Modern commercial tanners use industrial ammonia (as we were told) that requires the use of face masks. Fes tanners don't require any face masks (I'll leave that open to interpretation). Hides are left in the white baths for 2-3 days! This gets the hides ready for dying and removes the hair.

    After that, the larger is dyed in the colored vats on the right. Natural colors are used "such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange" (from Wikipedia). Side note, apparently henna isn't just a hand decoration, it's a plant. The leather is then hung put to dry in the sun. Summers in Fes can get up to +40°C or 104°F so I imagine they dry pretty quickly.

    Because FindPenguins does compress and degrade our pictures a bit the below link is the full quality picture of the Chouara Tanneries. Notice all the leather drying on the walls on the right and elsewhere in the background. It was an amazingly impressive operation.
    High res photo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/gLhAZJjmisKbUEWE6
    Panorama
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1LU311iPgtcH3FU8    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Local kids from the country. Mid Atlas
    Mural in Meknes Morocco2Chickens for celebration in markets of Meknes MoroccoTetouan the white city of the low atlas mountains in northern Morocco. Capital of the northTetouan plazaLow atlas. Between Tangier and ChefchouanLow atlas mountainsLow atlas mountains1Atlantic Ocean west of TangierCountryside between Tangier and ChefchaouenCountryside between Tangier and ChefchaouenOlive trees west of FesCountryside west of FesCountryside west of FesFields west of Fes6Obligatory proof we were there pic. Near the Smiha GorgeThe town of Ait Seguenouny1Getting closer to the Sahara. The fields of Ait Benhaddou.The great Sahara desert

    Traveling through Morocco

    March 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    As Americans if we were pressed to describe what we thought Morocco looked like we'd probably have to assume a lot of desert and brown buildings with wild markets and cobras in baskets. While all of those things exist inside Morocco we were struck with how lush and green much of it was. The countryside is littered with olive groves, alfalfa fields, palm date tree forests and much more. To support much of this, I read Morocco has the world's largest desalination plant to supply drinking water, while natural sources are diverted to crops. Morocco also offers skiing in the Atlas mountains

    While we did make a tour out to the Sahara, it's really a small part of what Morocco is all about.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Ait Benhaddou from the "new town"
    Ait Benhaddou and Olive treesTheir list of movies filmed here.Alleyway.Alleyway and stairs1Not my choice place for a picnic.Asif Ounila River (which is probably redundant because one of those two words probably means river).Kasbahs of Ait BenhaddouThe, in progress, arena for Gladiator 2A market at Ait Benhaddou3Indigo rock

    Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco UNESCO & movies

    March 24, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    While setting up our base in Marrakech, we took a 3 day tour out east. Our first major stop was a town we've all seen, but never heard of, Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. Ait Ben Haddou is a Berber village and UNESCO Heritage site that has been used as a movie set for decades. Movies filmed here include Lawrence of Arabia (1962), Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981), Jewel of the Nile (1985), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000), Game of Thrones (3rd season in 2013) and they are currently building an arena to film Gladiator 2 staring Russell Crows son.

    Given it's a Berber village, our tour was guided by a local Berber man named Abdil. Abdil also tries out to be an extra in movies. He got to be one of the 4 men who got to triumphantly lift Daenerys Targaryen after she freed the slaves of the city. He promised us autographs we never got (jk).

    Only 5 families currently live in the old town. Wikipedia states that none of the buildings in the village believed to be built prior to the 17th century. Despite this, the old town was created with centuries old Berber construction methods and that is a big part of its appeal. The plaster on the outside needs to be constantly replaced because rain followed by heat can cause cracking in the sides.

    The river between the new and old town is also naturally salty due to mineral salt in the land. That means they have to walk 3 km to get water from another natural spring. Color commentary: we were here in mid March and it was almost 80°F and sunny. I'll leave the rest to the imagination.

    Our guide Abdil taught us some of the Berber language which, after Arabic, proved very easy. Azun (with a slight l sound on the n) is hello. Many Berbers in the desert wear blue head wrappings and the Spanish word for Blue is "Azule" (coincidentally?). That helps us remember how to say hello to the "blue men" as they are sometimes called.

    To use that as a segue, their head scarfs are dyed with natural "indigo" stone mined locally. The dye helps keep them cool in the desert and doesn't run when you sweat as modern synthetic blue dyes can (as we were told).

    Ten-milt (is how I would spell "thank you" in Berber) for reading.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Todra Gorge
    111

    Todra Gorge, Morocco

    March 25, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We stopped at Todra River and Gorge in the town of Ait Seguenouny to explore the area and see how the Berber tribes live and cultivate their land. Despite the very arrid climate, the river valley was home to olives, dates, figs, peaches, almonds, and alfalfa (mainly to feed livestock). We got a very detailed walk through of how they hand make their carpets, cultivate and irrigate their land and a little more insight into their culture.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The Sahara
    2Desert selfie2Night sky pic of our Camel possy. We named them, Bob Marley, King Lois, Rupert and Gassy.2Emily and Dave on Camels. Dave was asked to carry a snow board for fun later2Our Berber guide, Abdul. He was really nice to let us take his picture.3Dave trying to make friends with his camel.2Another group of Camel riders.2Emily with our lead Camel, Bob Marley.16 humps of camel2Shadow of our Camel possy2Sun rise pic1Desert scarb2Bob Marley again2Sunset picture1Emily gazing off towards the Camels2Bob Marley was resting1Sunset again1Abdul, Claire, Halie (I'm sorry if that is spelled wrong), Emily, and Dave trying to load directions1Veiny Camel Footprints1Campfire at our Sahara tent underneath the crescent moon2Our Berber music concert2Scarb. He kept waking into my footprints. Not sure what that said about my feet.

    Sahara Desert, Morocco

    March 25, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We had the wonderful experience of doing a three day tour through Southern Morocco which concluded with a stay out in the tip of the Sahara desert, this area known as Erg Chebbi. Our Berber guides took us through a sunset tour on camels followed by dinner and traditional Berber music and dancing around the campfire. We concluded the evening star gazing and sleeping out in the desert tents. It was a once in a lifetime experience and something we will never forget.

    Also, when we were star gazing, Dave tried to take a picture of the stars. He took a picture that seems, almost too good to be true. We wonder if there was sand on the camera lens, but we can't confirm or deny either theory. Dave tried like 20 times to replicate the picture, but could not.

    High res photo.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/QZQAAM8eUu1bP4ex9

    Just as an FYI we have been pretty sparse on the photos of us in Morocco for two reasons:
    1. In the medina and souks it's very common practice to have locals expect a little bit of money if they are in the photos. Morocco is busy so often photos have many people.
    2. More importantly it is very frowned upon for Muslim women to have their photo taken. Morocco is 90% muslim. Many do not prefer this or are very adamant against it. We obviously try to be as respectful as possible to different cultures and religions as we travel. Out in the desert though it was pictures galore.
    3. We met a lot of great people on this trip! We got along very well with them. We did a contact exchange and were able to do a photo swap with them. This actually gave us access to pictures of ourselves. It was hard to take our own pictures on camels we could neither stop or dismount without our guide, Abdul's, commands. We were the oldest of the group, so we appreciated the inclusions and sending photos to the "old couple."    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Dave excited to cook an authentic moroccan meal
    1So is emily1Food prep1And more prep1lemon chicken tangine with tomatoes & cumber salad, eggplant chutney, wine from Casablanca1Dessert of orange water infused milk in between to pastries topped with almonds1Olives in the Tangier Souk1Dates and Legumes in the Tangles Souk1Kefta (left) Moroccan Couscous (right)1Spice market in TangierSpice, Incense and other beauty products in Tangier1Chicken Tangine (left) and Chicken skewer couscous (right)Apparently Ramadan is a time for sweets and the shops are stocking up! (Fes)Chicken Tangine (covered) and Chicken skeweres1Chicken Tangine (uncovered) and Chicken skeweres1Seffa - sweetened semolina cuscus with butter, cinnamon, and almonds. Basically dessert pasta.3Breakfast. Top is "Fassi" eggs with cured beef. Bottom is a Moroccan Crepe.1

    Food of Morocco

    March 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Food of Morocco is delicious, but not the most diverse.

    It is made famous by Tajine, which is the primary dish you'll find in any restaurant. We also took a cooking class for this. Tajine isn't actually a "dish" it's a ceramic pot that was originally part of Berber culture but can now be found across North Africa and the Middle East due to their heavy cultural integration. Tagine can contain chicken, beef, lamb or fish. It usually also contains 7 different vegetables, but we did also get vege-less tagline in our travels.

    Beyond that, the other common dish you'll see on menus is Couscous. This is VERY similar to Tagine, but on a bed couscous. It can be really filling. Dave was actually really loving the couscous dish because it is such a balanced meal and as we travel, that hasn't always been easy.

    Breakfasts were very bread heavy. We were often given the choice of 3 or 4 different types of bread (all at once) with different condiments. Those included "Khobz," a half leavened bread disk that is crunchy on the outside and fluffy inside. Also, "Meloui" which I've also seen called a "Moroccan Crepe" and it is just that. It doesn't have any filling though. "Harcha" is kind of like a cornbread biscuit. The last one I'll mention is Beghrir, which are basically pancakes.

    Common condiments are olive oil, honey, & fresh jams. Dave's favorite was Amlou. We heard someone call it Moroccan Nutella, but I think that is selling it short. It's effectively a nut butter with argan oil, almonds and honey. I didn't know argan was edible and thought it was primarily used in cosmetics.

    You can actually find eggs for breakfast if you want. One of our favorite breakfasts dishes was Fassi (see picture), eggs in a cast iron pan, with Khlea (cured beef). It's pretty good and we'd recommend it.

    Restaurants aside, we have to talk about the markets or souks. There you can find vendors with piles of spices or olives or sweets. Massive fish markets and the occasional squak of a chicken meeting it's end. Traveling around souks are a sight to behold. The one in Fes in particular is amazing, but we didn't get many pictures.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    A Blue Eyed Blue City Kitty in Chefchaouen
    Maybe a few fleas in MeknesThese three are looking for chow in ChaouenA purrrfect hood ornamentAn pose worthy of Instagram in Chefchaouen. Must be a MillennialGetting our steps in ChefchaouenWhy so blue?A little jewel in ChefchaouenAdorable cat in ChefchaouenPawsing for a photo momentKitten in tangier waiting for his mealMilk please? (Tangier)Another blue eyed blue city kitty.5 Dirham purrr pic pleaseOur local petite litter in TangierCuddle buddies in MeknesA Marrak-cat from MarrakeshYou can tell March is considered Spring in Morocco. We saw many kittens in late March.Just having some fun with video editing (Tangier)

    Cats of Morocco

    March 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    In Muslim culture, cats are considered the only "clean" animal and are thus usually welcomed all throughout their cities. They are also the only predominate animal welcomed in homes and buildings around Morocco. Dogs are seen as unclean and they are therefor outdoor animals. There are a lot of cats. We've seen this in the former Yugoslavia, and now in Morocco. Here is a collection of our favorite felines.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque
    2Dave posing at Saadien's Tombs2Our lounge in MarrakeshCat sleeping at Saadien's Tombs 🐱 😴Graves @ Saadien's TombsGraves @ Saadien's TombsSaadien's TombsPanorama of Saadien's TombsCyber ParkStreets of Marrakesh1Cafe france. Come here for great views of the main square and overpriced coffeeThe minaret of the Koutoubia MosqueCeiling at the Bahia Palace2Ceiling at the Bahia PalaceBanana Flower... didn't know they had flowersLantern store in MarrakeshBab (Gate) AgnaouJemaa el-Fnaa at night during RamadanA local hipster coffee shopHotel La Maison Arabe. Winston Churchill once stayed here. We did not.1Doorways of Bahia Palace2Saadien's Tombs

    Marrakesh, Morocco

    March 26, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Marrakech, like many of the major cities, we once the capital of Morocco. It was the capital at its founding in 1070. Fes became the capital in the 13th century, but Marrakech regained capital status again in the 16th century. The current capital in Rabat.

    The main attraction in Marrakesh is the Jemaa el-Fnaa or the Main Square of the Medina. It is still as you might have seen in movies or videos. There are cobra charmers, monkeys on leashes which may steal your hat for fun, and today there are juice vendors galore. It is lively, but a bit touristy.

    As a bit of an "whoopsie" on our part our arrival in Marrakesh was also the day before Ramadan started. Luckily, we found a really good restaurant open for breakfast in our neighborhood of Sidi Mimmoun. Lunch proved a bit harder some days, and dinner after sundown got crowded.

    Fun fact, the Berbers, who inhabited Morocco before the "Arabs" called Marrakech "ⵎⵕⵕⴰⴽⵛ". While we don't know how to pronounce it, we can tell you the Berber people's language is MUCH easier to pronounce than Arabic. We just can't read their alphabet.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Outside of Saint Sofia Church
    Outside of Saint Sofia Church1Mosaics of Saint Sofia Church's necropolisMosaics of Saint Sofia Church's necropolisNecropolis of Saint Sofia ChurchNecropolis of Saint Sofia Church1Hard to find English sometimes.This was the oldest plaque we found in the Necropolis3Walkthrough of the Necropolis1This video actually starts in a level below the Necropolis.

    Saint Sofia church, Sofia Bulgaria

    March 31, 2023 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    St Sophia Church is one of few preserved Christian basilicas in Bulgaria.
    The church was built in the 6th century on the site of several earlier churches predating it from the 4th century. After the occupation by the Ottomans in the 14th century it was rebuilt to include a minerat as it was converted into a mosque. During the earthquakes of 1818 and 1858 the minerat fell killing the imams son. That was seen as a bad omen and it was soon after abandoned.
    Today it serves as one of the oldest and most valuable historical sites of Sofia from the Roman period. It is located in the centre of the holiest place of the centuries old city, the "Serdika Necropolis". Beneath the church itself lies the archeological level showing the remains of ancient mosaics and previous foundations and burial areas from the 4th century.

    On a side note Serdica was the ancient name given to Sofia, Bulgaria. Bulgaria is one of the oldest countries in Europe and the city of Sofia or Serdica as it once was known as predates the Romans. The name comes from the celtic tribe that called this area Serdi. Neolithic burials were found before that up until 6000 BC. It was even said that Constantine the Great loved Serdica so much that he was considering making it the capital of his empire before settling on Constantinople now modern day Istanbul. For more info in Serdica see here; https://slowtravelblog.com/serdica-lost-city/    Read more

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