Back to the beach
July 25 in Albania
☀️ 29 °C
OFor my last few days I'm heading back to the beach. As I leave the hostel the papa offers to take me to the station. The family have been so kind to me here and considering my lack of language our connection has been so special. The bus is at 10am but at 10:10 we are still at the station touting for customers. The bus takes just over 1.5 hours and when I get off at the bus station they want 15 euros to take me to the hostel. I review my options and walk 2 minutes and jump on a local bus for 40 p the conductor comes round and takes my money but a few stopa later another guy gets on to check I have a ticket. I have definitely stepped onto a much more touristy zone. The hotels are huge and the tic tac souvenir shops are everywhere . Durres is also a big shipping port and we drive past the dock area. The bus comes to an abrupt stop and every one gets off and a lady helps me by telling me to wait here and catch another bus to currilla beach. I see the bus drive past me grab my bags and literally chase it down the street. Thank god it's only the next stop and I board the bus chuffing like a train. Only for the driver to get off and have a coffee break. On the bus there are an Italian couple and another lady and they are slagging off tourists andi can just about understand them with my Spanish so when I get off I say graci and prego . There faces could sink a ship. The hostel is just a 5 minute uphill walk and once again I have a room to myself. As much as I love this I miss being with people. Everything here is uphill and after taking refreshments I head for the beach. I have googled where there is a beach bar with sunbeds for rent and a 12 minute walk takes me to The shark beach bar I spend the money I would have spent on a taxi on grilled prawns and grab a sunbed. It's crazy because when I walk along the beach front there are many high end bars. I literally spend the whole day lying on the beach.Later in the evening a group of Italians take the beats next to me and the guy is on the phone saying he is not going to Norway again in the winter speaking fluent English. It's crazy because everyone here speaks Italian. It's like they have taken over or maybe it's because they are so close to Italy.There is a huge viewing platform here where people come to watch the sunset and I join before heading to the hostel for a quick shower. I'm heading down the promenade for dinner tonight. I still have quite a bit of leke left and I'm pushing the boat out. As I walk along the promenade I spot a place that's absolutely packed and it's Mexican so I head in. Wow the way they are churning people in and out is absolutely amazing . I order the fajitas as it's been a while. It's not quite the same as home but it's served on a sizzling platter that I manage to burn myself on ( no surprise there) after dinner I walk along the promenade that feels a bit like benidorm or Blackpool with multiple sellers selling flashing balloons and kids scooting up and down on electric bikes. I have to say this has been my least favourite place on the whole trip.. By 10 o'clock I'm tucked up in bed.Read more
City of 1000 windows
July 24 in Albania
⛅ 23 °C
I'm up early again today as I'm off river tubing
The meeting point is across the river so along route I stop and take a coffee. I arrived at the hostel and the lady offered me coffee and breakfast and what a spread it is . The kindness of people here doesn't come because they have a lot it's more because what they have been through and in their hard times they had to share to get by. Speaking a little language definitely opens up the older generations as most of them rely on their children coming home from the city of Tirana to be able to communicate with the influx of tourists in the summer months. The bells of the church in the hill ring out and it's so nice to enjoy without hundreds of tourists. The drive to the Osumi canyon takes 1.5 hrs and we board 2 minibus. There is no sign of Anjelo and I ask the driver to wait. He says he can for 5-10 minutes but then we have to go. Along the way there are huge farms with poly tunnels growing all the produce as few things are imported here and boy can you taste the difference. Albania is famous for its hundreds of thousands of concrete Cold War bunkers, built between 1967 and 1986 under the paranoid isolationist regime of dictator Enver Hoxha. Designed to defend the country against imagined invasions by NATO or the Warsaw Pact, these surreal relics dot every corner of the landscape in total over 175,000 were built. We arrive at the centre where we are kitted out with wetsuits and helmets and lifejackets. A lot of paddling is required as the river is not fully flowing but in some areas there are quite powerful flows. The guides push us where needed and we spend a good few hours in the water It's a really organised set up and after finishing we trek back up and are taken back to base to get changed. Back on the bus and I'm surprised when lunch is included. The tour has cost £53 but has been well worth it. Back at the hostel I grab a shower and change. This weekend there is a beer festival called Festa e Miqësisë - festival of friendships. I arrange to meet Anjelo and we share street food and a beer before both heading back for our departure tomorrow. There is an old guy here who has a kitchen sink full of coals cooking sweetcorn and it makes me chuckle thinking about some of the huge suitcases I've seen where it looks like they have literally packed the kitchen sink.Read more
Leaving the stone city
July 23 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
I really wish I had spent another day here although I walked my legs off to try and get everything done. I am really trying to push on to get the final things that I have wanted to do in this trip to Albania. I'm grateful this morning that I'm able to get a proper latte at the hostel and as I sit listening to the cockerel accidentally spilled the whole coffee all over the table. Soaking a whole pack of cigarettes. The bus is at 830 and the owner of the hostel has kindly offered to take me to the bus and even makes me a new coffee. The bus leaves at 0830 and takes just over 3 hours. The bus stops a 10 minute drive from the centre and rather than get a taxi I opt for the local bus. I meet up with a guy from the Philippines and he says he's booked the tubing for tomorrow and that it's cost him 33euroi say he should check as I nearly made the same mistake and one departure is from Berat and one is from Cordova which is over an hour away. He calls the company manages to change it and I book onto the same tour. I explore the city by foot stopping for a lunch of baked cheese I meet up again with Anjelo .Berat is nick named the city of a thousand windows and one particular window really interests me it's the wine window. You rings a bell and for 3 euro you get a glass of homemade red or white wine. It's on the Mangalem part of the city it's a typical example of Ottoman urbanism and architecture consisting of narrow cobbled streets with multi storey wooden houses. I cross the river on the old bridge then back across on the Gorica bridge. It was built in 1977 and even has it's own set of stray dogs guarding it. Next stop is the castle but when I go to take a taxi they want 1000 leke to take me up. It says 300 on Google but I don't want to pay that much so decline. After a quick shower I head out for dinner eating a local dish of lamb baked in yogurt it's delicious and followed with cherry ice cream. I sit and wait for the sun to go dand the houses to light up. Anjelo meets me with another guy called Arthur from Belgium and we share a few drinks.Walking home I pass the Army recruitment office. There is noone in my room tonight so a good nights sleep is forecast.Read more
Stormy weather
July 22 in Albania
☀️ 32 °C
I set my alarm this morning and I've already packed last night so literally grab my bag. Isabella and Ledjon get up to say goodbye to me. There is still no power this morning so it's probably a good job I'm out of here
Once again Google maps says it's a 12 minute walk and 20 minutes later I arrive . I head into the little shop which is really dark apart from a battery operated flicker candle which is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard. There is no real bus stop but generally if you stick your thumb out people will stop. I've got here really early but I prefer to chill and have a cigarette than rush. A short while later other travellers turn up including 2 Germans with the biggest suitcase. After travelling for so many years I would never make that mistake again and I'm sure they won't either. Along the road a van has been blown off the side of the road and is leaning precariously on car on the lower ledge below it. A girl at the bus stop is is also heading to Girokaster so at least I have a little travel buddy for the journey. Along the way goats pave the road but the bus just weaves on through. We arrive at Sarande and even though I have bought a ticket online we have to check ln Alyssa is going to the toilet so I stay with the bags and ask her to grab me a coffee. The town of Girokaster means city of stone and has the old town and new town. It is one of the most preserved ottoman era towns hence having it's UNESCO status. I visit the highlights of the town from the oldest house over 300 years old to the Girokaster castle. It is absolutely massive and takes nearly two hours to walk around. Even the streets are made of stone and once again Google maps lies to me about how far it is and in sliders my feet are so sweaty I can barely keep them on. I eventually make it back to the hostel I literally have one night here so have been out all day. The girl who's sharing my room is joining me for dinner and we've opted to eat in the hostel as they serve traditional food of stuffed peppers and rice and a huge salad and up at the castle they have an open air folk music concert it's a beautiful ending to enjoy in this city.Read more
Mother Theresa
July 21 in Albania
☀️ 30 °C
I take my coffee and Ledjon has got it perfect this morning it's nearly as good as my morning costa. While I am in here Faz the manager of the hostel asks if I can come and help. There is a young lady who has had a horrible night's stay and has not been able to sleep. The problem is this is like a party hostel and the guests go on the boat party every night and then come back and party and then have no respect coming in the room at 4am and putting all the lights on being noisy. In another room a girl has been sick so I help her and make her a fresh bed give her some electrolytes and put her to bed. The early morning swim here is so refreshing and Isabella joins me on the water with a rubber rings. We have planned a beach day and it's nice in the morning because the bin men have taken away all the broken sunbeds. I really enjoy my last day on the beach dipping In and out of the water to keep cool. I chat with Marco one of the local guys and we discuss the history of Albania and how the museum in berat has 6th century greek gospel manuscripts in . I really want to experience a few more things before heading home so I'm glad I've booked the ticket online as it gives me a bit more piece of mind. I cook my last bits of food in the hostel and Isabella joins me for dinner. It's just a chill night in the hostel. I go and take one more beer in the bar and the guys say there is lightning when I look it doesn't seem too impressive but then from nowhere the wind comes things are flying everywhere within minutes and then the power goes out. It's a crazy storm. Thunder lightning and like a mini tornado and because we are literally on the beach the sand whips up. After over an hour watching it I head to bed.Read more
Himarë
July 20 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
I wake up a new woman today and swear I'm never drinking Jaeger again. As much as I've totally lost a day then nausea yesterday was horrible especially in this heat. I have started to look at my plan after here and even though it says there is a direct bus I don't think there is one when I check. It's so easy to get stuck in places when you travel but I am ready for a change of scenery and need to start making my way to Tirana for the airport. I have had such an amazing time here . I am really trying to finish my book here but I keep getting distracted. The next few days are going to be a lot of walking and heading more inland so I make the most of being by the sea. Taylor leaves today and I have spent nearly a week with her. When I travel I meet so many people who are travelling but there are a few you make a special connection with and she is one of them. She is here on a break up holiday but I love her strength and positivity. I even spoke with her mum in New Zealand to reassure her she was ok. A girl I met in Sckoeder that I travelled to Tirana with called Isabella arrived a few days and we spend the day together. It's crazy because the day after the hangover I eat really well. After dinner we head back to the hostel. It's really nice to eat with someone and I would say this could be the loneliest part of travelling. We grab a lemon soda in the bar next door and it's crazy how we have pretty much travelled to the same places. The after boat party is up at the other hostel tonight so we both agree to take an early night.Read more
Hangover from hell
July 19 in Albania
☀️ 30 °C
I wake up with the worst hangover and for once it's the kids looking after me. They bring me electrolytes and a banana. Travis and Jules leave today and I don't know if it's the hangover or lack of sleep but I'm pretty emotional. As the day wears on I don't get any better and eventually take myself to bed for a few hours. When I wake up I still feel really rough and Taylor is heading into town. I need to exchange money and Taylor is after a necklace she has seen a few days ago. It's about a 35 minutes walk and when we get there the bank is closed and the necklace seller isn't there. We sit down and get a drink and crepe and as we are leaving the boulevard we meet up with one of the girls for the hostel who says the western union is open so we walk back and I manage to exchange some cash. As we make our second attempt back we see the necklace guy coming up from the beach so missions accomplished. A lot of the guys ended up at the club last night and when we walk past the tables still have all empty glasses on . I haven't been able to eat today so I grab a crepe but even that is hard to swallow. A shower slightly refreshed me and I grab a table to watch the game. I actually enjoy the half time entertainment better than the game. Once the game has finished I go straight to bed. I'm so glad of my earpods because the noise is crazy. Fireworks going off and people singing goes on till the early hours and after the way I've felt today I'm glad to lie down and go to sleep.Read more
Washing day
July 18 in Albania
☀️ 30 °C
When I wake up this morning the first thing I see is my ear pods. They were on my bed the whole time. I'm so relieved. Today I plan to get a few things done like washing and exchanging some money. I always feel a bit guilty when I don't do anything at all but I remind myself I'm on holiday and it's ok. I have my morning coffee by the sea before returning to the hostel. It's difficult because I'm on a different time zone. I heard the rest of the dorm come back at about 430 this morning and then I'm getting up at 730 and trying not to disturb them. I really enjoy my day today. The hostel is really busy and pretty much full all the time and as I well know it's a constant washing day. The manager of the hostel has allowed me to do some washing today and it is not till later in the afternoon until the washer becomes free. In the afternoon I help with a couple of check ins and manage to actually sunbathe for an hour or so. I've picked up a book at the hostel and want to try and finish it before I leave. Most of the hostel are heading out on the booze boat and try and convince me to go but its not my idea of fun. When they all come back they are really drunk and after helping one of the girls I join the gang. A loveable rogue called Travis puts some tunes on and we have a little dance it's like I used to do with my dad and is so sweet. They are doing Jaeger bombs and this time I do join and by the time the English game comes on I'm pretty drunk. I enjoy the game immensely and after the game the girls head to the beach to carry on but I triumphantly head to bed.Read more
Coffee mafia
July 17 in Albania
☀️ 30 °C
I'm glad when I get up this morning I can hear the coffee machine going in the bar next door. When I get in there the usual guy is here but there are 2 guy's drinking double whiskeys who seem very dodgy. They seriously look like the Albanian cartel. They send a whiskey over to my table and then when I say I don't want it they say I'm disrespectful to refuse a drink. I take the whiskey and when they're not looking pour it away. They then start doing cocaine in the bar of their phone and they ask if I want any I agin refuse . They are really drunk and when I make my excuses that I will go and get my costume on the one guy follows me into the hostel. Luckily a couple of the girls here help me escape and I hide in my room till they leave. I go back to the bar and the owner asks if I am ok and tells me he had a knife ready. This is the first time I've encountered anything like this and I should have known better when I saw them drinking at 8 in the morning. I wait for 30 minutes and then go back to the bar to enjoy a coffee in peace. I have managed to pick up a book so I spend my day sitting in the shade. It's so hot today the only thing I manage to do is go in and out of the water. It's crazy how some days there is a little breeze but today you could cook a chicken in it. I have left over tuna and sweetcorn that I need to use so I throw it together with some pasta. Quite a few of the guys from the hostel have been on a booze cruise and it was taken your own alcohol so a lot of them are pretty boozy. Up the hill is the original oasis hostel and they have a party on tonight. The girls try and convince me to go but to be honest I want to just chill. I do a bit of hustling at pool at the hostel and chat with a guy from Switzerland called Marcio. He is a full on mountaineer in the swiss Alps and when he shows me a few videos it's like wow. Scaling ridges like you would see in films. I love the variation of people you meet when travelling it's really so varied. A lot of people travelling here have flown into Corfu and then get the ferry to Sarande which is the next seaside town. I head to bed just after midnight and I'm gutted when I can't find my ear pods as They are what keeps the noise out when I'm going to sleep. No matter how many signs are put up about respecting the quiet time after 1130 and not putting toilet paper in the toilet no one is able to read. Luckily there aren't many people here tonight as the party is at the other hostel so I manage to get to sleep.Read more
Himarë
July 16 in Albania
☀️ 29 °C
I wake at 8am and it is so nice because noone is up it's like I have the whole beach to myself. I make my sachet coffee and I'm quite surprised when I see Taylor so early. We have agreed to buy some shopping together as we are both here 5 days but when you are solo travelling and moving around it's not really worth it. We get eggs and bread milk and I top up my cigarettes stash. Cigarettes are 4 euro a pack so at the moment I just buying a couple at a time but I will be stocking up to come home. The hostel has sun loungers and umbrellas so I make another coffee and get comfortable. No fighting for sunbeds here.For lunch we make a grazing board and I literally spend the whole day chilling reading my book and dipping in and out of the sea. The hostel has a couple of small rubber rings and I try to use one but my arse is too big and I end up going arse over tit. The hostel is fully booked and you can tell. There are a lot more people about so after doing the sunset swim I grab the best shower of the trip and I really appreciate just taking the day off. I have decided that I will spend another 2 days again here as I was going to head South but the hostels are super expensive and to be honest being right on the beach is really suiting me. The is a BBQ party at the other oasis hostel but that's not really my scene so I walk along the front with Taylor and Jules and when I see a restaurant with local people in I decide to eat here. Back at the hostel I play some pool before heading to bed. It's a lot quieter tonight without the football and I'm asleep in minutes.Read more
We're going to the beach
July 15 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
After a full on week of travelling and trekking I'm ready to chill. I was in no rush this morning to get up but as I've woken early I decide to go and grab a coffee and head out to catch the earlier bus. It's about 7 hrs of travelling and two separate buses and with nothing booked I decide to go and scout out what's available. One of the girls in the hostel is heading to north Macedonia but will take the first part of the journey to Tirana bus station with me. We chat for the whole 2 hours and it really makes the journey much quicker. We arrive to the bus station and I get shown to the bus heading to Hirame. It's a 4 hour journey and when I get on the bus one of the mexican girls Jules is on here after 2 hours we stop for a 15 minutes refreshment break then we're back on the move. It's a 52 seater bus and it's literally packed but 10 minutes in and we come across a broken down minibus so all the people off there board our bus. Seriously the body heat on here is like a sauna. What was supposed to be a 4 HR journey ends up being 5 and when I get off the bus it's a 20 minute walk to the hostel Luckily I've got a bottom bunk and literally a sea view and an added bonus there's a pool table here. I dump my bags and head straight to the bar and have a cigarette. I have already decided I want an extra few days here. I have booked for 3 days but will extend so I get to see the final here. I already love the vibe here and the hostel is really friendly. For the first time I actually unpacked my bag and take everything out. In the supermarket I buy some instant coffee for the morning because I wake early there is generally nowhere to get a coffee so Its nice to have a back up. I get an early seat at the bar because they get really packed and then most people end up on their phone. The girls bring me a gyro and as I say there the guys from Valbona come in When England score the bar erupts and I join them, but then I see that Argentina have equalised and when I see the second goal I go to bed so I don't have to watch them celebrating. The bar is right in front of my room so it's pretty noisy but I put my headphones in and go to sleep watching Netflix.Read more
Stolen flip-flops
July 14 in Albania
☀️ 30 °C
This morning i go down for breakfast and my flip flops have gone. This is a bit of a nightmare as I only have them and my hiking boots. All shoes were left downstairs so it's a little bit crazy. The guesthouse I'm staying at has a cow and for breakfast then mama brings me a glass of the freshest milk you can get and an egg from the chicken
The milk is still warm and tastes amazing.as well as the egg. I have taken the easy option of getting a taxi from the guesthouse to the bottom of the blue eye trek as it's along the same route I took to the waterfall yesterday. The young girl in the guest house goes up to the other guests room and finds my flip flops apparently they were really drunk last night so took them by mistake but I'm just relieved to have them back. The taxi picks me up at 930 and drops us all off at the base of the trek. Within 10 minutes of starting the trek I fall, the track is very shaley and a group help me up and clean my wounds I am so close to quitting but push on . The trek takes me an hour and a half and when I get to the first clearing I don't find anything I haven't seen before but a further 5 minute trek opens up into the blue eye. It is really beautiful and I'm so glad I pushed on. The bus has arranged to pick me up at 1 and because it has taken so long to get here I only have 10 minutes here before I have to trek back. I am much better at the decline so am back in the village by 1230 and the bus will pick us up at 1 so I enjoy a lemon soda before meeting the bus. Back at the homestay I chat with the mum in broken English. She has 7 children 4 girls and 3 boys. The girls are studying to be nurses and are in college in Sckoeder. I spend a few hours with the family before heading down to the village to catch the bus. As I'm sat I'm the restaurant I ask a table behind me if I can take a napkin and the guy is from Old Swan in Liverpool it's so nice to hear a Scouser it like hearing a little piece of home The bus leaves on time and arrives back in Sckoeder at just after 7. I grab quick shower a bite to eat then go down and get my spec for the game. As I'm sitting here I get chatting to a guy from Albania and when I ask him what he does he tells me he's a pianist of classical music. He shows me on Google and he's really famous. The people yo meet while travelling. At the end of the game I bid him good night. Every muscle in my legs are hurting and I'm so glad to lie down I'm asleep in minutes.Read more
Theth
July 13 in Albania
☀️ 33 °C
It's another early start from sckoeder. All the buses pick up in the same place and are going in various directions it's absolute bedlam but at least this morning I manage to get a coffee. As I'm sitting waiting Lexi comes round the corner and we bid our farewell and agree to catch up in Madrid. I get told to be there for 6.35 and after multiple showings of my ticket get told the bus is 730. I enjoy my coffee with a couple of cigarettes and I'm ready to face the Day. The road is very snakey and at the top we stop to take a break. We arrive in Theth and I'm shocked how organised it is. There are shops an ATM and they even have a zip line. I enjoy a coffee and cigarette before the 20 minute walk to my guesthouse.The more I travel here the more I see how people share there houses as the tourism takes over . Young children of the family learn English on YouTube to be able to facilitate the guests from around the globe. On the way herei pass the famous church but the are so many people here I decide to wait as I can literally see it from my guesthouse so I will wait for the crowds to disperse and go later. I join 2 girls in the hostel who are hiking to the waterfall and I should know better as it's midday and the sun is beating down. The girls are from Belgium and along the way they bump into a scout group. I decide to leave them and continue the trek alone. The last 20 mins is pure rock scrambling and even though the Google maps says the trek is 30 minutes I'm now 40 minutes in. I have maps me which is much better for trekking and although I feel ready to give up I push forward and wow was it worth it. The waterfall is amazing and I stay here for a good hour and a half with the spray keeping me cool. The reality is its packed with tourists but because the water is so cold people stay on the rocks rather than the water which allows everyone to take beautiful pictures. No Instagram posing here. The trek down is much easier and I stop for an iced coffee on the way back with a plate of chips. The chips are homemade and absolutely delicious. I feel so much better in myself today and already Theth has blown me away everywhere you look it's stunning. I arrived back to the guest house and wash out my clothes. I head out for dinner, all this walking has definitely given me an appetite.Read more
Shkoder
July 12 in Albania
☀️ 32 °C
This morning I feel a bit flat. It's all very well wanting to see everything but it can get very draining especially when the heat is so intense. I'm doing a bit of research about moving South to the Albanian riviera but the price for even staying in a hostel has gone through the roof. It's obviously peak season in Albania and even since getting here I've seen the prices change with supply and demand. I go to my favourite little coffee bar and spend some time also looking at Theth. This country literally has everything to offer beautiful people amazing beaches and some of the best treks I've done. I chat with one of the guys in the bar and he tells me he earns £20 per day for a 10 HR shift. I wondered why Albanians come to the UK to work leaving such a beautiful country behind but I guess I now know. I will head out tomorrow to a place called Theth to hike to the blue eye so I book my tickets and guesthouse as there are no hostels here and I also have a look at where to go after. It's crazy the prices of hostels have pretty much doubled in the areas I've been looking at. It's peak season now and you can definitely sense this even where I am in Sckoeder. I also manage to get a wash done. Albania has a closed currency which means you can't get money outside the country and although the transit towns have the ability to pay by card in most places the mountain areas are not set up for that just yet so I also get some money exchanged. While I'm out I am walking along one of the back streets I meet up with the couple who I shared the whisky with on the ferry. It's crazy when you travel how your paths cross with the same people. They invited me to dinner but I already have plans with the girls. I really need an early night tonight as I still haven't caught up from yesterday so once again I join the girls and we share a few dishes between us before heading back and preparing for tomorrow.Read more
Valbona valley
July 11 in Albania
☁️ 27 °C
Well mornings don't get better than this. I'm surrounded by beautiful limestone mountains drinking coffee and enjoying my cigarettes. The guys and girls left early this morning at 6 but I unusually fall back asleep and woke around 8am. It's a crazy situation here because when you try to tip they say no. In the shop yesterday the young boy of about 7 yrs of age had served us in the restaurant and is now running the little shop.I tried to tip him 2 euro and he refused but I make him take it and again at the guesthouse they didn't like to take it either. Once again this morning I'm sat at the side of the road waiting for a bus that I'm not sure is going to come and am feeling really nervous as I need to catch the ferry. So my little friend from the port finally arrives at 1030. I am so relieved and he has kept me the front seat. All the people who speak English here are self taught and are so open to tourism however this has only really been in the last 10 years and started firstly with people from neighbouring countries like Montenegro. Other tourist from around the world started coming in 2019 but then COVID. In the valley you can see that they are starting with the infrastructure of building larger hotels and I'm so glad that I have come now to enjoy it without the hustle of big crowds. We arrive at the ferry port and I sit to have a coffee. It is so hot and I offer a guy a seat with me so he can sit in the shade. He is from Madrid and as we embark on the journey we exchange our life stories I explain that my mum and dad had their ashes scattered in a place called la Caruella in Spain and he nearly falls off his chair. His father's ashes are scattered at the same rock as my mum. . The more we talk the more crazy it gets and we spend the whole 3 hour journey exchanging stories with a promise we will continue over a beer in La Caruella in the next 12 months. We bid each other Adiós and I board my bus. This time the bus has picked us up on the other side of the tunnel but as we drive through the amount of buses is crazy and takes us 10 minutes to get out with tourists just standing in the road. It's a 90 minute ride back to the hostel and I'm looking forward to seeing the mexican girls again. I arrived back at the hostel and am greeted with a wonderful hug from Lexi. I spend the afternoon catching up and just chilling as I plan to watch the football tonight. I grab some food and treat myself to an espresso martini. At 4 euro a pop I might have 2. I plan to watch the football in the hostel but just before the game there is no one In the bar. I wander downstairs as there must be somewhere else the football is on and the street is packed with football on a much bigger screen. One of the young guys from the hostel brings me a chair from the bar and what a game it is . I'm so glad I came down here apart from the fact there are about 4 English supporters in the street. Even the Albanians love Haaland. There are a family close to me who I believe to be cheering Norway as their daughter has a Norway hat on. I ask if I can get a photo at half time and when I speak to them, the mum is from Rainford. We all laugh out loud. It's crazy the interactions football brings you when you are traveling. The second half is painful to watch but when we score in extra time I jump a up and have a little celebration fist pump. I help the guys bring up some glasses and after the vodka red bull I had I don't think I'm going to fall asleep but I drift of easier than expected.Read more
Shala River
July 10 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
It's an early 6am start this morning. I have left all my stuff outside the dorm so as not to disturb the girls. It's a 10 minute walk to catch the bus and 30 minutes to find which one you are on as there are so many.Its about 1.5 hrs on the bus as we snake around the mountain pass with beautiful views. We descend the bus at the entrance to a tunnel and as we walk through cars are passing us. There are a lot of people waiting to board the multiple ferries and I get up top where at least there is shelter. A guy comes on selling fruit and honestly the fruit and veg here are amazing because every thing is home grown. He asks for 400 which equates to 4 euro and as I'm on the boat eating them I realise they are crawling with ants , I'm not about to waste anything so I brush them off and eat them but for the first time here I feel ripped off by being a tourist. The boat journey is 3 hours but what a ride. We sail through huge mountains and the beautiful clear water glistens off the limestone. You would seriously think you were in Thailand. I meet a couple from Israel and they have a bottle of whiskey which they are keen to share and once that is finished out comes a bottle of vodka flavoured with Akai. I'll be drunk before I get off.
Everything is really organised here and a bus is waiting for us as the ferry docks. We get an opportunity to eat and wee and a quick cigarette. On board the bus one of the young couples realised they have left a bag on the first bus. The driver also has a wallet of a Saudi guy who has left it on the bus. It's got his driving license and credit card in There is an Arabic guy on the bus and between us we try and find him on Instagram and message him. The bus literally drops me at the side of the road and I walk down a track to find the guest house. I'm greeted by a great bunch of people who are heading out for lunch. As we make our way back to the road a bus is coming along and I stick my thumb out and crazily the bus stops. It's funny as it's the guy from the docks and the seven of us get on the bus sitting on the floor.. He takes us up to the village and recommends a restaurant to eat at. We enjoyed food and then take a dip in the glacier lake . Seriously it is so so beautiful but soon cold. You can literally only stay in there for a few minutes. We walk back to the hostel which takes about 15 minutes. We all share a dinner cooked by the guesthouse and another added bonus is the fact that I don't have to get in a bunk bed. After dinner we set up the phone to watch the football and 10 minute intro the game the owner brings a television to the back of the house. The kindness shown here is amazing. Him and his daughter sit with us to watch the football as we are watching the daughter points out the wolves in the mountains howling. It's at moments like these whereim sitting in the middle of the mountains watching the world cup on a television with the wolves howling in the background that makes travelling like this worth it.Read more
A day of planning
Jul 9–15 in Albania
☀️ 32 °C
As much as I don't like planning I have to play a little bit ahead here. Due to it being peak season the ferry gets fully booked. My plan was to do the Valbona -Theth trek but last night I stubbed my big toe on the slate step on the terrace and this morning it's black and blue but will wait and see how it feels tomorrow. I have new hiking boots and I'm not sure I fancy getting half way up the mountain and having to come back down. I have booked the ferry for tomorrow and my guesthouse for the night so I can relax. Another thing is I really want to get back for the game on Saturday so I'm also trying to plan around that. The great thing is I can leave my backpack at the hostel and I've brought a backpack which I can take my hiking gear in and I will return to Sckoeder to collect before heading to the South. My plan is to get the hardcore stuff out the way to be able to hit the beach and relax. The Terrace hostel is amazing for the money and breakfast is included for 11 euro. I've spoken with the girls and they are going to join me on a sunset ride to Shiroke. Wow it is so hot today I can barely move. The hostel here has a washer and dryer and it's 3 euro so I share a wash with Lexi as I don't have a full load. It's nice to have days where you can just chill and get a few things done. I'm constantly wanting to do things but sometimes I just need to take a breath. We hire the bikes at 6pm and the 4 of us set off for. It's a lot cooler now and the breeze as we are cycling is lovely. The first part of the journey Is great as there is a cycle path, although crossing the 2 roundabouts is a little hairy. We cross the old bridge which lives up to is name and after a 25 minute ride we arrive at the lake. It is so beautiful. We haven't decided to eat here and we each order a dish and share. We order calamari seafood risotto prawns and scallops, but the scallops are actually pork escalopes cream potato and Greek salad it's all delicious. . The ride home is a little more difficult as we're so full. We get back the hostel and chill watching Love Island for an hour before I head to bed for my early start tomorrow.Read more
She'll be coming round the mountain
July 8 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
I wake early and sit on the balcony with a guy who is Belgian and served in the military for 9 years and when he left joined the army in Ukraine. I asked him why and expected him to say to help but he told me they paid him £6000 a month. I'm really shocked. I am leaving Tirana today to head to the town of Shkoder up in the North. I'm catching a Flix bus which leaves at 10 so head to the cafe over the road. Two girls from Australia who are in the same dorma as me are heading north and when I checked there's a space on the bus so I book on. I've really enjoyed the vibe here. People are super friendly it's not as cheap as I first expected but it's a lot cheaper than Europe. There is a cafe opposite the hostel so I grab my morning coffee. Everyone here drinks espresso so when iaskfor a latte it's generally luke warm and served in a glass. Another thing here is the traffic. It's very busy and people just beep their horns all the time. I'm hoping this will change when I get up north. It's a 5 minute walk to the stadium car park where the Flix bus leaves from. It was £10 for my ticket and the trip takes about 2.5 hrs . As we arrive we are looking for the traditional green bus it's actually a transit minibus and how all the luggage gets on is beyond me. The road her is pretty well paved so a smooth ride. We arrive in just after 1 and I check into the hostel which for 11 euro a night is wonderful. I drop my bag and go out to eat. I'm blown away by how beautiful it is here. Little trattorias it like being in Italy. It's 32degrees here and if I was expecting it to be cooler with being in the mountains I'm mistaken. Sckoeder is the main hub point in the North and if you're going trekking you can leave heavy luggage here and just take a smaller backpack. It's so beautiful here with views of the mountains and the streets remind me of Italy. The tourist effect is definitely starting to hit with Burger king in the main high street and they even have a Shein shop. Back at the hostel I meet a lovely group of girls. 2 are from Mexico and we spend the evening exchanging travel tales and one of them is watching Love island. It is really hot today and the weather says the energy out of me . In the evening we just chill on the Terrace. It's crazy because when I go to bed it's like the town has come alive as in the street outside all I can hear is people singing sweet Caroline and I think I fall asleep singing along .Read more
Tirana lake
July 7 in Albania
☀️ 31 °C
I wake early this morning as usual and lay in bed for a little while so as not to disturb the girls. That is the only problem with staying in a dorm and being an early bird. I grab a shower and head out for coffee The Artificial Lake of Tirana (Liqeni Artificial i Tiranës) is the "green lung" of the city. Created in the 1950s, it spans 55 hectares and sits within the expansive 230-hectare Grand Park of Tirana (Parku i Madh). The area is a prime spot for locals and visitors to walk, jog, cycle, and relax. I choose the latter option. It's so nice to get out of the hustle of the city. I take a coffee by the lake and just chill. The next few days are going to be a bit hectic and I'm glad I got the walking the city in yesterday. I'm finding it difficult with the language barrier at the moment but I guess that will come a bit easier as I learn a few more words. Back at the hostel a new ladyl called Sophie checks into the dorm and after a quick chat we head for a bite to eat. We go to a bar called Era which has authentic Albanian food and I ordered the meatballs which were absolutely delicious. Sophie heads back but I'm heading to the fan zone to watch the Argentina Egypt game. The atmosphere is great and I'm cheering for Mo Salah. A kind lady from Palestine offers to share a bean bag while a group of young lads sit on two bean bags each but won't share. We nickname them the bad boys and giggle between us. A great night but worried if we need to play Messi. I arrived back at the hostel and it's straight to bed for the early start tomorrowRead more
Tirana Arrival
July 6 in Albania
⛅ 31 °C
So after staying up to watch the England game I make my way to the Airport for 4am. The ease of being able to fly from Liverpool is so much better. The flight takes just over 3 hrs and we landed 30 minutes ahead of time. I've pre booked a taxi on watts app and after picking up a SIM card and exchange some cash I'm able to use the watts app to message him that I've arrived. The hostel is about half an hour from the airport and I'm dropped right out side. Check in isn't till 2pm so I've come to the little coffee shop next door to chill for half an hour. I still have a couple of hours to spare so as I've always said the best way to know somewhere is to walk it. I decidey first point of call will be the tourist information office. I like to have a paper map, I know it's old fashioned but it's what I like. It's a 30 minutes walk and on the way back I go to bunk art 2. It's the history of the country set in a bunker explaining about communism. The museum is set in a 1000 square meter underground nuclear bunker and is certainly nice and cool. On the way back I spot the FIFA Fan zone and make my way across Skanderbeg square to have a nosey. I've bookmarked it to come and watch the Spain game tonight. It's just before 2 so I decide to head back and check in. I meet the girls sharing my room and join them for a bite to eat. We have a wander round the city and visit the "house of leaves" which is the house of secret intelligence. We wander back the hostel and rest a while before I head down to the bar downstairs to watch the football.Read more
Inspirational women
September 19, 2025 in Greece
🌬 22 °C
I haven't written daily like I usually do, mostly because I've been so busy doing workshops and enjoying the entertainment. I arrived in Lesvos without realising I'd booked onto a 2 week lesbian festival. I want to write because the love, involvement and inclusion I've felt since being here has been phenomenal. I'm never one to put people into boxes or stereotypes and have met some truly amazing and wonderful souls here. It's been nice to just relax and unwind without the hinderance of men. A lot of women here have their own stories to tell and have struggled and persevered to be accepted in a society that is judgemental.As much as things have progressed we still have a long way to go. Ive watched movies of the battles these beautiful women have had to endure to be partially accepted but we still have a long way to go. I don't get inspired very often but I truly have been here. Several people have really touched my heart. Vito a lady who was kicked out the Royal Navy for being gay. Catrina McHugh who co founded open clasp and has rightly been honoured with an MBE. My favourite couple Mary and Julie, who's love for each other radiates from their individual personas . The festival itself has been superb with fantastic acts from opera to quartets to amazing singers. The organisers who have pulled out all the stops to arrange a flawless coordination of workshops and shows. Being the only straight in the village certainly hasn't left me feeling secluded. So thank you ladies it's been a ball.Read more
Lesbos
September 9, 2025 in Greece
☀️ 23 °C
After a 4 HR direct flight and a 2 hour car drive I arrive at eresos. The area remains significant for its historical monuments, its natural beauty, and as a vibrant meeting point for the lesbian community, known for the international Eressos Women's Festival. I didn't realise when I booked it that it was actually during the time of the festival, and the island is hosting an additional 1000 lesbians to celebrate the poet Sappho who's birthplace this was. I have already bought a ticket so join in the fun. Occasionally mentioning that I'm straight I'm told " don't worry it's not your fault"😭. The festival is really well organised and on the opening night they have a selection of artists from all over the world who had the whole place rocking. Absolutely brilliant and to top it off the most beautiful view .
I make my way back to the Airbnb but the place is down some little alleyways and at night everywhere looks the same. I spend nearly 40 minutes walking up and down carrying the six bottles of water id bought before putting the water back in the car and trying again. Within 5 minutes I found it and was almost in tears as the gate opened and I drop myself straight to bedRead more
Beach chilling
March 13, 2025 in Belize
☀️ 28 °C
I wake early this morning and decide to stroll out for the sunrise. It's quiet and I can get a coffee at 6am. I stay down here till 830 just chatting.Then head back to the room with a coffee for Bobby. We have a pool outside our room and I'm happy to just chill here this morning reading my book. I'm amazed at how many people speak English here and chatting to the local people they tell me that English is the first language taught here. At lunchtime we take a stroll around the island where we just so happen to find a bar called the big tiity bar with a pool table, where I do a little hustling. I've met some really cool people here who have packed up there whole lives to come and live here. Unlike most countries you don't need a local investment. Although Belize is a rapidly developing country with a decent per capita income, the economy is still in its infancy. Therefore, the government is keen on welcoming and facilitating foreign investors who help develop the country’s infrastructure or offer jobs to the Belizeans. We grab a shower and head to benders bar for happy hour meeting up with the people we met the other night. On the pier are swarms of pelicans and in the water literally on the shore is a stingray. Bobby has changed his plans and is staying on the island, so I book my boat out of here for the 15th. In a way I'm quite glad to have a few days just on my own. We take dinner in the bar opposite which has live music and eat with the red moon setting over the water before retiring to bed.
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Boat day
March 12, 2025 in Belize
🌙 27 °C
We've booked a day out on the boat today to do some snorkeling. I'm absolutely hanging so hoping I don't end up being sick in my mask. The boat leaves at 930 so we take the chance to grab a coffee and a bit of breakfast. The island is so small 4km square and half the people from last night at the bar are at the cafe. The catamaran can carry 24 people but we only have 19 on board today. Half an hour into sailing we anchor off at coral garden where we get to snorkel for a good hour. I see my first eagle ray as well as numerous fish and eels. It's quite an experience to be beneath the sea and see so many different shapes and sizes. Back on the boat and our next stop is shark alley. As soon as we drop anchor we see the sharks begin to arrive and within seconds there are loads of them. When they ask if I want to get in I hesitate at first but they are only nursing sharks so I agree. Our last stop is hol Chan which translates to little channel.The Hol Chan Marine Reserve was established as a marine protected area in 1987 under Laws of Belize. It incorporates the southernmost marine and coastal areas of Ambergris Caye including the barrier reef, seagrass beds and the mangrove islands of Boca Chica and Cangrejo Shoals. A zoning scheme was developed in order to ensure sustainable use and guarantee its conservation. Hol Chan is divided into four zones which include no-take areas and zones that regulate and promote sustainable fishing practices..Many tourists come here in boats but the law is you can only be anchored here for an hour at the most. The sealife here is amazing and I can certainly see what the attraction is. Sadly we don't get to see manatees as it's too early in the season but everything else makes up for it. It's election day on the island and all the bars are closed, which is a saving grace for me with the hangover I've had today. We shower and head for dinner at Willy's . He has no menus but cooks whatever is fresh that day on the BBQ. Today it's pork fish or shrimp. It's delicious and really cheap for the island. With no bar to go to it's an early night with Netflix.Read more
Off to the islands
March 11, 2025 in Belize
☀️ 23 °C
We are catching the bus to Belize city port today. The bus ticket we bought is a hop on hop off so we can literally catch the bus going in either direction. The bus isn't till 1030 so we have been recommended a place to take breakfast. The people here are so friendly and you can definitely feel the Caribbean influence here. Bobby keeps shouting at me for saying good morning to people as I attract the wrong crowd but I keep on doing it to annoy him. There is no definite time for the bus because they don't know how long it will take them to get through the border so she says to wait there between 1030 and 11. The bus eventually turns up at 1200 and it's a big one so we quickly board and arrive at the harbour an hour later. There are a lot of people here. Half travelling to San Pedro, half travelling to caye caulker. We board the boat and the crossing takes 45 minutes. I can't get prime over here but after checking in and dropping our bags we head out to get a bite 2 eat . When we walk in the bar I'm pleasantly surprised see the football on the only bad side is the bar is full of french. The less said about the result the better. We go and book our snorkeling trip and head to a beach bar to grab a beer. The rest is history. I end up on the rum and don't even remember getting home.Read more
Submerged Crocodile
March 10, 2025 in Belize
⛅ 28 °C
We have booked another trip today as we move on tomorrow and when the taxi driver picks us up we get chatting about the upcoming elections. At the moment they have no prime ministers in charge but the old one is rerunning and his opposition is Shyne- the rapper - who has promised to get Belize out of the third world status it's in. We soon arrive at the landing area and in total there are 7 of us on the boat. Our lady captain is brilliant and the hour long trip allows us to see multiple birds iIncluding a jabiru stork and a couple of crocodiles. The wildlife here is amazing I'm just sad I never bought my good camera but then again I'm just enjoying the moment. As we travel along the river Brenda tells us about the mennonites.Mennonites from the Noah Hoover group in Upper Barton Creek and daughter settlements are extremely restrictive concerning the use of motors and electricity, that is, both motors and electricity are forbidden in the settlement by the members of the group. Their clothing is very similar to the Old Order Amish, and men wear beards like the Amish. Therefore, they are often perceived as Amish and called Amish, even though this is not the case. We arrive at the Lamanai Maya ruins.The Maya ruins of Lamanai once belonged to a sizable Maya city in the Orange Walk District of Belize. "Lamanai" comes from the Maya term for "submerged crocodile", a nod to the toothy reptiles who live along the banks of the New River. Lamanai. There is evidence on Maya life that dates from about 1500 B.C. At the site are structures that date from AD 625: The jaguar temple named for its boxy jaguar decoration; the mask temple adorned by a 13-foot stone mask of an ancient Maya king; and the high temple. In front of the mask temple is a single ball court, where an offering had been placed under its giant central marker. A lidded bowl contained 100 g of crystalline hematite, 19 g of cinnabar in a miniature vessel, and other objects such as jade, shell, and pearl, all atop of a pool of mercury. It is said that the games went on for days and at the end the winner was sacrificed. Winner winner tonights dinner. Archeologists first came to the site in 1974 and began their work. A lot of the ruins have been covered with replicas (mask on the temple) because as much as you tell tourists not to touch they always will. It's a 1 hour journey back down the new river to home. Rain is forecast tonight so we head out for dinner early only to find that most of the town is closed as there is a holiday today. We eventually find a Chinese restaurant and head home for an early night as tomorrow we head to the islands.Read more


































































































































































































































































































































