Adele Sinisterra

The landscape of Savuti is wild and impressive with giant Camelthorn trees lining the dry river beds ancient rocky hilltops painted in lichen yellows and greens and magical marshlands with billowing golden grasses.

When we arrive we are told there is a lioness with her young cubs at the Bushman rockart painting hill and we visit this area a few times to try spot her. One morning while waiting silently near the cave entrance in our vehicle we hear a loud squawking and out of the bush to our left races a red billed spurfowl for his life followed by a group of banded mongooses on the chase. He manages to jump onto a branch in a tree by a feathers breath and thereafter follows his frantic alarm calls echoed by his mate still in hiding. The mongoose gang of 17 sprint in a precise co ordinated unit to try and get him out the tree and then branch out to forage on the riverbed nearby totally unconcerned by our presence. In another minute they spy another potential target and are off again sprinting with such speed and focus altogether we are amazed.

Our unfenced camp is located on the banks of a dry riverbed where a peaceful bull elephant likes to visit every evening to feast on the Camelthorn pods. One night we hear him shaking the tree and our tent is showered with pods. He carefully and quietly vacuums them all up and then moves on to the next camp.

One afternoon we explore the famous Savuti marshes where the huge black maned lions roam and we spend time with a large group of giraffes two males sparring with their weighty necks swinging like clubs towards each other. Once it’s over they all serenely walk off through the grasslands their silhouettes gliding into the distance.

The next afternoon we get a tip from one of the rangers and set off to search for some male lions seen near Twin Peaks hills. We spot one beautiful Lion resting in the shade of a tree close to the road and as the sun begins to set he starts roaring searching for his brothers. The sound of a male Lion roaring is like no other sound on Earth. We are close enough to feel the vibrations rumbling through our bodies ! Words that spring to mind are absolute awe, great respect and restoration of the natural balance on Earth….
And then just when we are counting our blessings on our drive back to camp in the last after light of the sunset we see his brother lying in the road and he is roaring in response.
Savuti we love you !Leggi altro

From the dry side of the Kalahari we stock up at Maun and then set off for Moremi Game Reserve where the jewel of this region the Okavango Delta lies.

The reserve was established in 1963 by the wife of chief Moremi from the Batawana tribe living in the area at the time who was concerned about the loss of wildlife and cattle encroachment happening all around her and thank goodness for her foresight as today this 5000 km square reserve is a vital wilderness space in Africa and the Okavango Delta a green oasis of water, palms and reed pathways through winding channels where countless animals and birds have their home.

We quickly discover that there are lots and lots of elephants here and after watching a family herd come to drink and then have a delightful mud bath we set up camp on the fringe of the Xakanaxa lagoon for an intended afternoon of relaxation. This is very short lived as soon after setting up our chairs and stretchers under the shade of the giant trees a huge elephant bull approaches and we very quickly discover that we are all under his favorite grove of Winterthorn trees which are now bearing fruit with the tastiest seed pods something elephants love and just can’t get enough of !

What starts as a fun experience with our elephant friend vacuuming up all the fallen pods around and very close to our vehicle becomes awe inspiring watching him put muscle to the giant trees and actually shake them to get more pods to fall. Then Peter who is photographing from a distance away from the vehicle on foot is approached directly by the bull and we have some heart stopping minutes watching with held breath and sending as much calm energy as possible to the elephant before he finally turns away to another grove of trees.
At the end of the day we move campsites as close as possible to the ablutions and are grateful that no further ellies come our way.
Phew it is an adrenaline experience we do not wish to have again !

The next morning we calm ourselves down completely with a tranquil boat trip in the Xakanaxa Lagoon.Leggi altro