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Jules
  • Julie Watkins

Jules

Italy/Croatia '24 Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 29, 2024
    Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    Table for 2 at La Botte ristorante
    View from our terraceAperitivoLow tide at MinoriView up the hill, next door's cat!

    Italy/Croatia 2024

    February 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Early morning start for 0700 flight to Naples. (We had 2 days in UK to get over jetlag and buy shoes!)
    Easy flight and arrived to sunshine. Met our driver who took us to our first stop, Minori, on the Amalfi coast. Amazing views as we climbed up and up, round incredible hairpin bends. Mt Vesuvius looked huge; terraced row upon row of lemon and orange trees. All covered in nets but fruit very visible.
    After 130 steps we arrived at our home for the next few days. Beautiful view from our terrace.
    Slipped right into the culture - aperitivo time followed by freshly made pizza. I can recommend the local wine!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1

    Minori

    March 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Got to grips with the coffee maker - well, sort of! Definitely a forerunner of today's models.
    Set off on foot to explore neighbouring Maiori. This involves hugging the edge of a very narrow road (still mostly 2 way traffic) around the cliff edge. Not for the faint hearted but definitely a way of life here as people trek back and forth. Sadly we missed the market but we had a good wander around, sheltering in doorways when it absolutely poured!
    We are in low season so everything is relatively quiet and not a lot of restaurants etc open. One can easily imagine how busy it soon will be. That said we went into the local deli in Minori and had the most amazing sandwich. The baguette was crammed full with fresh cut ham, mozza, tomatoes and arugula. Bursting with flavour! We enjoyed that on a seafront bench.
    As you can tell, we are slowing down!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    2Ceiling inside our lunch spotRoad to Amalfi

    Amalfi

    March 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Bus adventures! Missed the first as we had no ticket. An hour for the next one so purchased tickets at Tabacchi then went for coffee and cake. Good choice.
    Opted to get to bus stop 20 mins early. Good idea as the bus arrived 5 mins later. A hair raising, hairpin drive with fabulous coast scenery. Do NOT drive in Amalfi!
    Lovely stroll through tiny side streets and passages to avoid the definitely touristy area of the main street. Everything printed with lemons or the name. Two way traffic thru what appeared to be a pedestrian area. Crazy, delightful chaos.
    Found a great spot for lunch - home made vegetable soup, fish and lemon potato croquettes and a glass of local rose vino.
    Checked out the impressive cathedral from the outside only & walked the waterfront.
    Bus home, picked up supplies for pasta and salad. People so friendly and helpful.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    A long way down back to Minori, steps all the way!Washing out, ready to go.View from Villa Rufolo gardensThe piazza at RavelloLemons, Bird of Paradise flowers & daffodils!

    Ravello

    March 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Hung out the washing and hoped for sunshine. Off to Ravello which meant two buses, lots of hairpin bends. Almost 1.5 hrs in Amalfi for connection but a beautiful day and a lot more locals and tourists about. Standing room only on the bus and packed!
    Ravello is high up and "the most elegant of the small cities of the Amalfi coast". The views are amazing, particularly from Villa Rufolo. In the summer they hold classical concerts here which must be fantastic. There is a huge auditorium on the hillside, not unlike the Eden one in UK.
    A beautiful, serene place and we were able to appreciate that serenity virtually on our own.
    We opted to take The Lemon Path back down to Minori. It took us well over an hour to negotiate countless steps and beautiful views, glimpses of private gardens and endless lemon trees laden with fruit.
    Legs like jelly we headed to our favourite aperitivo bar. The two glasses of Prosecco were divine!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1Colours of the sea after rain.
    1Cetara with Salerno in backgroundLooking up to Cetara from beachCetara1Moody skies on way back to Minori.1Lunch. Everything so fresh.

    Cetara

    March 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Our 35th wedding anniversary. Pouring rain which cleared so set off via bus for Cetara. A small fishing village , along the coast from Salerno.
    More hair raising twisty roads; Richard was behind the driver so had full view of every sheer drop as we turned! A female cyclist was holding us up for a while as she blithely pedaled along, one hand on phone, holding a conversation. Even the driver was floored!
    Rain stopped exploration so we ducked into the tiniest of restaurants. Only ones there, plus one chef and 3 assistants!
    Lovely pasta with walnuts, anchovies, olives, pine nuts and ricotta. Richard had pasta with mussels. Excellent. Time for beach combing and a few sea glass finds before heading homeward.
    Dinner out at La Botte altho not able to do it justice after lunch.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1Beautiful homes built into the side of the cliff!
    A back street in old SorrentoOrange trees line the streets. Spot the couple on the balconyChurch of s. Marie del CarmineOur base for 4 nights; very spacious with large bedroom.I found my tribe on the beach at Amalfi!Ferry port, Sorrento.Capo Di Conca, Amalfi coastline

    Move to Sorrento

    March 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Two buses and 4 hours later we arrive in Sorrento, with sunshine. Amazing coastal scenery as we drove through Furore, Positana and more. Our lodgings are just 3 mins walk from train and bus and central for most things.
    Unpacked then set off to explore. Hard to believe I last visited here 50 years ago. It has grown and changed somewhat!
    Found the elevator to take us down to the port and got all the info on ferry's to Capri. An afternoon for sauntering and stopping to have a beer, which turned into late lunch. Lovely!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Pompeii

    March 6, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Took the local train from Sorrento to Pompeii only to be told on arrival at 10am that it would not open until noon. However we could get in to see the Mystery Villa first which had some beautiful murals. Amazing that the colours had lasted so well.
    By the time we had toured the villa, everything was open - no reason given for the hiccup. It was all quite spectacular - a town that had been preserved in volcanic ash and debris since 79 AD which was found in the 1700s. It was quite beautiful with gardens, obvious rooms, earthenware - even ruts in the roads where carts would have travelled. The amphitheatre was of special interest to Richard - Pink Floyd had recorded a concert film there in the 70s (playing to an empty theatre!). There is even a gallery of photographs cataloguing the event.
    The whole site was quite moving; many areas are still undergoing restoration work.
    We were lucky the weather stayed dry - would not have enjoyed walking on all those smooth stones!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Sorrento

    March 7, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    After yesterday's sensory overload, a quieter day was in order! Figured out the washing machine (so glad I brought my tech guy along - he has been invaluable,!). We explored the myriad streets in the old town and it turned into a shopping expedition. All valid purchases for my outfit on 20 March!
    Enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a nearby restaurant (note the interior festooned with hams and smoked goodies) and explored further to find some views across to the Bay of Naples and lemon gardens!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    221

    Isle of Capri

    March 8, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    We picked a good day for the hydrofoil trip to Capri. Just 40 mins and we were docking. Rushed to buy tickets for the funicular before we were aware that it was closed for reno! Quite a long wait for the mini buses which careen around the island hairpins - and the buses are packed!
    The town of Capri was super busy with tourists so we settled for a pricey coffee (10 euro each) so we could relax and people watch on the sunshine. It was like walking down Bond St - unbelievable shops. Lots of construction/reno happening. Probably prepping for the new season. We did a walk about but very quickly caught the bus to AnaCapri which was much quieter, very few, if any designer shops and more to our liking. Found a delightful square with tiled benches to eat our home made sandwiches - cotto ham, rocket, provolone and roma toms. Perfect!
    Explored the beautiful church, had a cuppa in a cute little cafe and realised all too soon we had to head back to port, as I was ever hopeful of a dip at the little beach near the harbour.
    Sadly far too windy for a dip in the turquoise waters so I settled for a paddle. Bliss. Beachcombing for sea glass and terracotta bits was so rewarding!
    Headed home for last night in Sorrento, stopping en route for shirt shopping for Richard.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Roma!

    March 9, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Very wet day as we head to the station. First train to Napoli,then change to fast train for Rome. A total of 2.5 hours including change.
    First train was very wet - water seeping in around door frames and windows that don't shut!
    Second train a big improvement! They said fast - did not appreciate it would be 300km/hour. No, not a typo! Very smooth.
    We were in Rome and checked in to our hotel with afternoon free for sightseeing. Still pretty wet so opted for hop on/off to get our bearings and stay dry. Apologies for rough photos - taken from moving bus! Jaw dropping sights - the size and number.
    We did go to Trevi Fountain - huge crowds - mostly youngsters. Unfortunately I was not feeling great - frozen and sore throat so it was early supper and head back to hotel. Everywhere feels extremely safe, not much hassling from the occasional street vendors and lots of police cars/sirens!
    Our hotel room had BBC world news so watched that loop for a while - enough reality.
    Streets were very noisy at night, possibly due to Italy winning the rugby match in Rome today!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Rome day 2

    March 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A sick day for me - not going anywhere with this head cold. Richard went solo exploring on foot and using subway. He even found his favourite roast chestnuts!
    I read, slept and recharged!

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Rome day 3

    March 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Feeling better after more sleep but can't face food. Richard solo again for breakfast. Shaking his head at Americans filling ziplock bags with croissants and fruit. They seem to think lunch is included too!
    We head out in sunshine - hoorah - for The Pantheon. Used the metro like a couple of locals! Pantheon was incredible. It's massive! And what a feat of engineering, plus far too many slaves. But a thing of beauty. Timed our entry perfectly so no line up. It is now a church so appropriate rules enforced. The most remarkable feature is the dome which is open to the elements but apparently never gets flooded.
    We found lunch near the Colosseum as Richard was booked for afternoon entry.. I headed back to the hotel, taking in the exterior of the Colosseum. Made one error on the Metro but made it back to the hotel in one piece! Feet up, tea and sleep.
    Richard had an amazing afternoon and returned eventually, foot weary!
    Time to pack bags as we are moving on to La Spezia tomorrow for a side trip to Cinque Terra.
    It was lights out at 8pm. Gosh where did the stamina go?    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    La Spezia

    March 12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Arrivederci Roma - we left by high speed train and for hours later in La Spezia which is just a few mins train ride to Cinque Terra.
    I should mention the fashion in Rome - so many smartly dressed people, oozing elegance. There was a group of ladies at Rome station - all wearing furs and outfits that were possibly a bit young for them?! Matching luggage and obviously off somewhere fabulous!
    The train journey was very comfortable,- we were in 1st Class which cost about $60. The route took us along the coast (cruise ships spotted) and also inland where we saw olive trees, marble depots and even what looked like marble quarrying up in the hills. Fascinating.
    Checked in around 3pm to our studio room (nice shower) leaving time to meander down the town. La Spezia was full of nice surprises ,- orange trees lining the main route, palm trees near the marina and quite elegant buildings. Didn't understand the sudden profusion of high end shops until we spotted the cruise ship in port!
    Lovely "pasticceria" cafes with the yummiest of cakes!
    We opted for early dinner again as I was getting super tired. Found a lovely (empty) restaurant for fusili with shrimp and zucchini. Richard had what he professed to be the best carbonara rounded off with chocolate torte.
    Found our way back to the studio and called it a night. Thankfully streets were all quiet.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    2

    Cinque Terra

    March 13, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Joined the masses for the short train ride to Vernazza on the coast. We decided not to go to every town so this was the farthest spot for us on the packed double decker train. Yikes what must high season be like?
    Vernazza was so pretty with a beautiful waterfront. Spotted an ocean swimmer with full wetsuit enjoying a workout. You realise just how set into the cliffs the properties are; shop ceilings are rock!
    As you would expect, lots of steps and gradients but the views are so worthwhile. Back to the station and hop on to head south to Manarola. Lots of shopping opps again - everything from seafood to go, to hats, belts and limoncello. There's even a Michelin starred restaurant. Interesting info displayed about an annual nativity which lights up the hill top each year.
    Still winter season so lots of fishing boats are literally stored in the main street. Must be quite the job to take them down and into the water.
    Found a great spot for lunch. I enjoyed triangular shaped pasta stuffed with ricotta and spinach, smothered in a rich walnut sauce. Delish! Richard went for spaghetti with king prawn.
    Took the upward path from the harbour to the most beautiful view point filled with osteosporum in full bloom (did I get the plant name right?). Amazing how they farm on such steep terrain - and have gone for 100s of years.
    Decided against the trek to Riomaggiore; altho it was the shortest hike in Cinque Terra it was also quite challenging.
    Sun was with us today - getting up to 18c. Most people paring down to tee shirts.
    Next stop by train was Riomaggiore. Sadly the most disappointing location - lots of construction/reno going on and some areas not easily accessible. We walked to the waterfront where many were taking a dip and then back to the station.
    It had been a full day again - we were glad to to pick up a fresh made pizza from a place near our studio. Akin to waiting in the fish & chip shop queue! Fascinating to watch the chef manipulate the pizzas in the big wood fired oven. Literally wood fired with branches and all sorts of logs being fed in.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Florence

    March 14, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    0830 train to Florence and we were checked in to accommodation by 1100. And we are literally right round the corner from The Duomo!
    Unpacked and off we go again. First stop the local launderette which was very straight forward. The location was steps away from a huge street market area (leather and scarves everywhere) and a fabulous indoor market. A very popular spot for lunch it seems so we joined in with a very hearty Riballito (bread and veg soup) and pasta ragu. All for $24. You could even enjoy wine or beer with your food at the random seating areas. How very civilised!
    Back to our room to hang up the laundry and regroup.
    An afternoon strolling, getting our bearings for tomorrow's timed tickets and then a simple charcuterie board for supper. Meats were freshly sliced for each order. Simple but bursting with flavour and very satisfying. I must be getting over the cold; I enjoyed a glass of Chianti!
    Walking back we popped into the local choc franchise. Oh my word - so many samples offered - including limoncello confections and a little schnapps. Couldn't resist buying a small pot of pistachio cream! Slept well!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1

    Florence

    March 15, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Day 2 Florence. We have set times to see The Baptistry Saint John and the Santa Reparata (the remains of the previous cathedral which was demolished when the existing one was complete).
    Richard opted for the Duomo Cupola for the grand view after climbing over 400 steps.
    Sauntered in the morning, a light lunch and then off to respective sites.
    The Baptistry was amazing - an octagonal ceiling which has 1000 sq metres of mosaic embellishment. To this day it is in continual renovation, Stunning masterpiece. Three entryways have ornate bronze doors - the originals are in the museum on site.

    Quick freshen up then time to catch up with brother Dave and Jane who arrived from Devon. Fun evening at Ciros & Sons.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Greve & Bucine

    March 16, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Saturday morning and we collect our rental car, heading south to Greve and ultimately Bucine where the wedding will take place.
    Greve is a lovely little town and we are definitely in Chianti country. The black rooster sign on the building is seen on many bottles in this area. Rolling countryside and lush green hills. It's beautiful country.
    Settled in then headed to the next town to pick up the groceries and drinks for 13 people for the next few days. 5 shopping trolleys later!
    Had our first glimpse of the villa as we dropped off everything. So exciting!
    Dinner was in a delightful restaurant in Bucine. Walked home in the starry evening. Perfect. The last photo is the villa lit up.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1

    Siena

    March 17, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A few shots around the neighbouring winery before we head to Siena. I won't lie, it is hilly and we now always check the parking situation before heading out!
    What a beautiful city and the main square is phenomenal. They run horse races here twice per year. Must be an amazing spectacle and packed with tourists of course. Richard managed to wrangle a ticket to climb the tower even tho the groups were fully booked. We found a lovely courtyard (painted ceilings) for a quiet little glass of vino. Quite getting used to the slower pace of life!
    Headed back to Bucine as it is time to check in at the villa. So exciting and what a spectacular place. Built 17th century and used as a hunting lodge for nobility from Florence. Beautiful and so romantic.
    Even more thrilling .... The pool is salt water and open for Dippers,!
    Lovely family evening as 13 of us sat down to enjoy pasta dish cooked by Talia and just one or two bottles opened.....
    Lovely sunset.    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Quiet villa day

    March 18, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A quiet day in order for everyone. Laundry top of the list and checking all the outfits are ready for Wednesday. Some went for a walk, a run, dip or working on their speech!
    Various shots around the villa and view from Villa.Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Rehearsal Dinner

    March 19, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Excitement builds! A morning drive into Arezzo (40 mins) for last minute purchases and a delicious croissant filled with pistachio cream! More of Arezzo on Friday./Saturday. Back to the villa to prep for tonight's catered pizza party for all 32 wedding attendees.
    A wonderful evening and so much fun with the trivia quiz about Matt & Talia. Just a little pressure for the parents and their memories!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Wedding day

    March 20, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The day dawned with clear blue skies and full on sunshine. Not too breezy. Simply perfect.
    The caterers did a wonderful job of staging the villa; it was already perfect but the dining room was transformed with 100 pillar candles in glass jars, stunning greenery running the whole length of the dining table seating 32.
    The florist brought in two massive urns full of olive branches, white roses, white ranunculas and blue centred anemones.
    The emotional vows were exchanged on the upper balcony so as you watched the couple, their backdrop was the beautiful Tuscan countryside, sunshine lighting everywhere.
    The newlyweds and parents went down the sweeping staircase to be showered with olive leaf confetti from friends and family above.
    Most of the photos had been taken earlier so it was on with the cocktails and beautiful canapes on the front drive and entry porch.
    Speeches were made prior to the four course meal so that everyone could relax & enjoy.
    The evening was full of dancing, dancing, laughter and fun. The bride barely left the dance floor! Carriages arrived at 0100 and the villa residents gamely partied on until after 0200!
    It was the most wonderful day. Pinch me!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler
    1

    Recovery & onward travels

    March 21, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Not too many early risers this morning! Another lovely day but quite windy. The obligatory dip in the pool refreshed! A quiet day for packing, lounging round the pool and sharing photos and moments from yesterday. Beautiful brunch provided by the caterers fed us for the whole day.
    Everyone left the villa by Friday morning, some train, some by car + all directions. We drove to Pisa, stopping at San Gimignano en route. It deserved so much more time - a beautiful old town with panoramic views.
    We were on schedule to meet my brother at the airport - he kindly took a checked bag full of wedding attire back to the UK for us. We will take it on the final stage in a few weeks.
    For us it was back to Florence, drop off the rental car and train to Arezzo for 2 nights.
    Boy those hills are a workout with luggage! But we made it and found a lovely homely restaurant for our dinner. Slept well!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Arezzo

    March 23, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A leisurely day exploring this delightful mix of ancient and modern town. Replete from the now habitual croissant crema + coffee, we started with the market. It was massive - filling a tree lined avenue which stretched at least 1km. The food section of any market always interests and this one was quite amazing for cheeses, hams, sausages (wild boar) and fish. Big sides of roast pork were sliced on demand to create take away buns complete with a slice of roasted pig liver.
    It was time to check the rail station as we had heard yesterday that a strike was imminent. We have to be at Rome airport by Sunday night for our 0630 flight to Zagreb.
    It was all looking dodgy. We took the decision to leave today at 6pm (strike starting at 9pm).
    We took a quick walk up the town to check the view from the park and snap a few more of the beautiful Umbrella pines which are everywhere. The bark is amazing.
    Our host was kind enough to refund one day.
    We found a hotel just 500m from Rome Termini station for the night and enjoyed a slice of pizza with gin + tonic in our room at 10pm. Living the high life!    Read more

  • Julie WatkinsJulesTraveler

    Hello Croatia

    March 25, 2024 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Arrivederci Roma, donbar dan Zagreb!
    A very early start (0430 taxi) for our flight to Zagreb. Less than 2 hrs travelling and we were in Zagreb centre enjoying coffee and a fabulous spinach quiche for breakfast. Their pastry shops are amazing and leisurely coffee breaks are definitely part of the culture!
    Dropped our bags late morning and set off to explore. Tourist info centre very helpful and we have a walking tour booked tomorrow.
    Zagreb centre is split into two levels - two towns which joined many years ago. Higher level reached by steps or the shortest funicular in the world - the ride takes just 64 seconds!
    A lot of buildings wrapped in scaffolding including the cathedral, and not accessible. We learnt that a lot of this work is due to the earthquake in 2020. Beautiful buildings, parks and of course markets. Interesting that magnolias are just blooming and yet blueberries, strawberries, asparagus all available and delicious!    Read more

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