Middle East 2022

Tour of the Holy Sites and ancient monuments of Turkey, Jordan, Israel, Palestine and Egypt Read more

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Middle East 2022 Traveler
Kaymakli Underground City
October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Doing an underground city was the main reason for me to choose a green tour.

Caves may have first been built in the 8th–7th centuries BC. In Roman times, the inhabitants, now converted to Christianity, expanded their caverns adding the chapels and Greek inscriptions. The city was greatly expanded and deepened in the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) era, when it was used for protection from Muslim Arab raids during the four centuries of Arab–Byzantine wars (780–1180). These cities continued to be used by the Christian inhabitants as protection from the Mongolians 14th century. After the region fell to the Seljuk Turks of Persia, the cities were used as refuges from the Turkish Muslim rulers, and as late as the 20th century the inhabitants, were still using the underground cities to escape periodic waves of Ottoman persecution. When the Christian inhabitants of the region were expelled in 1923 in the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, the tunnels were abandoned.

The city has a depth of 8 floors, and only the top four are open to the public, There are stables, a church, extensive storage and living quarters and even a winery. Everything is organized around the ventilation shafts which go down the full depth. There are many defensive features such as narrow, twisting tunnels and holes that allowed defenders to spear the invaders.

Around 8,000 people lived in here in times of war.Read more
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Treat shop stop
October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
As with all tours, there had to be a final sales stop. The Beyzade Kureyemis shop makes treats, especially around dried fruits, but also nuts, Turkish Delight and chocolate. They have a little talk and a sample of some 30 different things. I was impressed with the local Cappadocia coffee that has cardamon, hazelnut, cacao, dates, almonds and pistachio in it that I bought a small bag to use in the mornings as there are no coffee machines in the rooms and unimpressive stuff on offer by the time they get around to opening for breakfast at 8.
They also demonstrated a skin oil made from Rose Oil the ladies in the group said they liked and bought. There was a display of their other natural skin care products.Read more
TravelerGot to have coffee much earlier than 8:00!
10/10/22Reply
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Pals Kitchen
October 7, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Dinner of chicken shish for 125TL and an Efes Malt for 75. Good deal and it was so tasty.. It was just a few minutes walk through the scenic night lanes of Goreme.
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Balloon bummer 😢
October 8, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
Had booked Butterfly Balloon Tours months ago as one of the more highly rated outfits.

Alarm for 0445, bus pickup at 0515. About a hundred tourists fed a pastry and fruit breakfast before the announcement comes that the flight is cancelled due to high winds. I am happy that safety is first, just a bit of bad luck. Refund was issued promptly.Read more
TravelerThat’s too bad!!
10/11/22Reply
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Goreme Open Air Museum
October 8, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
My flight is not until the evening, so set the morning aside for the Goreme Museum. This UNESCO site is the most popular tourist destination in Cappadocia and to me is one of the highlights of the trip with a large number of churches, chapels and monasteries carved out of the cliffs that have many lovely and well preserved frescoes from about a thousand years ago.

This region had early Christian settlements from the 2nd century then in the 3rd century became popular for the establishment of monasteries. These grew as did the population of Christians fleeing Roman then Muslim persecution. Many of the churches carved into the stone have frescoes. Most seem to date from the 11th century.Read more
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Goreme Centre and Istanbul Cafe
October 8, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Walked down from Open Air Museum through town. Goreme exists because of tourism with many activities at the outskirts of town, including horse riding, mountain biking, ATV rentals.

The town is very well serviced with restaurants and shops.

I chose a restaurant called Istanbul Cafe (and Nargile, but didn't partake) with a second floor terrace. Lunch was at 130 and will be the main and only meal with a bus at 3, flight at 6, another bus and getting to my hotel at 9, so decided a nice meal was in order. Place on the main street looked like a nice terrace on the second floor. Tried the local specialty Testi Kebabi Tavuk or pottery kebab chicken for 230TL and an Efes for 90TL. The dish is cooked in a conical clay pot they bring to the table and crack off the top and empty it on the plate. It was a very tasty stew of chicken, tomatoes and mushrooms.Read more
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Leaving Cappadocia - Kayseri Airport
October 8, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
At Kayseri Airport enrouute to Selcuk via Izmir. Shared van pickup for 200TL was at 1500. Flight time is 1800 and we got here about 1645. Checked in at Pegasus Airlines but they don’t allow two pieces of cabin luggage no matter the size or even if you pay a fee. Interesting model I think to speed boarding as I saw later how quickly they turn these flights. So checked my bag for free. At this airport there are only two flights leaving in the next 2 hours so will hope they put it on the right plane!

No plane here yet but was on time according to check in agent. Plane arrives about 20 minutes before departure, everyone gets off, then we board front and rear doors at the same time according to row and ten minutes later we depart on time. No carry on certainly speeds up the process to be more like a bus service than what we are used to from airlines.

Bit of light rain.

Bit of adventure at the Izmir airport. My bag did not come off until the very end. I knew it would be tight so rushed to the curb and managed to flag down the bus just as it was leaving. Next one was another two hours. Got to Selcuk and a ten minute walk up the hill to my hotel at 2100.Read more
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House of the Virgin Mary
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Way at the top of the mountain above the Ephesus ancient city is a park said to have the house where the Virgin Mary lived her final years. There is of course no proof of this and a good article is found here:
https://turkisharchaeonews.net/object/house-vir…

In any event, it has become a pilgrimage site for many and is constantly busy with visitors who come to pray at the shrine (no photos allowed) or tie wishes to the wall with ribbons

Very peacefulRead more
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Upper Ephesus
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
So, Ephesus was one of the top two reasons, with the Hagia Sophia, to visit Turkey and neither disappointed. First, the site is so vast and shows the full extent and layout of one of the largest and most important cities in the Roman Empire as the capital of the province of Asia.

It also is very significant in early Christian history as both John and Paul lived here. Paul was here several times and his stay of three years was used as a base for his evangelism throughout the Eastern Mediterranean and the tenth book of the New Testament, Epistle to the Ephesians, was written here, Is quite possible that without Paul, Christianity may not have survived.

Started at the upper / North Gate which is best as you go downhill to the bus to town. The top part runs to the Terrace houses where it takes a turn to the right. Some impressive ruins and you can just wander around them at will.

Ephesus was built in the 10th century BC then taken by the Roman's in 129 BC and rebuilt.Read more
TravelerDidn’t know about all this history! That’s amazing
10/11/22Reply
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Terrace Houses at Ephesus
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
The Terrace Houses require another entrance ticket but are very worth it. This is what is called Terrace House 2, number 1 still in ruins. They are essentially a complex of what you could say are 8 luxury townhouses for the elite in Roman society. They have been covered with a massive plastic or glass roof and are undergoing restoration. You get a glimpse of the principal rooms and the life they led.Read more
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Lower Ephesus
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Below the Terrace houses the monuments continue. First the magnificent Library. The Agora was the central square of the city. Then the impressive Theatre which sat 35,000 and has perfect acoustics.
TravelerWow so cool!
10/10/22Reply
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Efes Pidecisi
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Meat and cheese pide 40 and Coke Zero 15. Tea free of course. Lunch for $4.07.

The Turkish pide (pizza) is light on the cheese and grease and very good.
TravelerLooks delish and the price is right too
10/10/22Reply
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Ephesus Archaeological Museum
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
The Ephesus Museum is located just a few minutes from my guesthouse as the road from Ephesus itself enters town. It has exhibits from the Mycenaean, Archaic, Classic, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman Eras. Exhibits are mostly from the finds of the ancient city. They have some very nice sculptures from the Roman era of course. There is also a stunning statue of the goddess Artemis, namesake of the nearby Temple. The exhibit on the cults was also interesting.Read more
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Temple of Artemis
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
This was a few minutes walk up the road from the Museum. It is a field of ruins with only one column standing, and the bottoms of the rest showing the extent of the temple.

The temple was dedicated to the goddess Artemis (called Diana by Romans) who was goddess of many things it seems: the hunt, the wilderness, wild animals, nature, vegetation, care of children, childbirth, and chastity. (not sure how those last two reconcile except for the one time!)

Even viewing just the ruins you can get a sense of the vast size at 137 by 69 metres with 129 columns. In ancient times it was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It was started in 323BC on the site of two earlier temples.Read more
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Selcuk
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Ephesus base was the farm market town of Selcuk. Stayed at Homeros Guesthouse which was in a peaceful lane just 2 blocks from the main highway. Like the other lodgings so far it shows its age but in this case far more charming. Quaint breakfast room where the owner served a nicer breakfast. Great views from the top terrace.

Selcuk is a pleasant place that has got a slower pace of life and is friendly to tourists but still very much a local vibe. The town has lots of restaurants for locals as well as tourists and vendors with fresh squeezed pomegranate juice. The remains of the old Roman aqueduct to Ephesus run right through town by the railway station.Read more
Travelerin Canada there is hardly a building more than 300 years old, and tose are very rare!!
10/10/22Reply
TravelerSo many pomegranates! I bet they were more affordable than here
10/11/22Reply
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Mehmet & Alibaba Kebab house
October 9, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Typical street cafe.

Owner also owns the carpet shop next door and a wholesale operation in New Jersey. The population of Turkey is 85 mill. 50 mil own restaurants or shops.
Oh... and 85 million cats. Three of them looking for a handout from me. Little do they know!

Mixed kebab was best yet especially the spicy meat. Only 120TL. Large Efes 40 and of course a free tea. Great meal for $11.84 CAD.Read more
TravelerHaha poor cats should have gone sniffing up another tree!
10/11/22Reply
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Basilica of St John
October 10, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
These are the ruins of massive church right in town a five minute walk from the guesthouse and it was almost deserted at 9 in the morning.

It was built from 548 to 565 by the emperor Justinian who also built the Hagia Sophia. It was built on top of St. John's grave and an earlier mausoleum from the 2nd century

The Apostle John traveled from Jerusalem Ephesus where he remained for the rest of his life. It was during his time there that Emperor Domitian exiled him to the Isle of Patmos, where he wrote Revelation (the Apocalypse). When Nerva became emperor John was pardoned and returned to Ephesus, where he lived the remainder of his days while he wrote the Gospel of John.

Stopped for a coffee after coming down from the Citadel.Read more
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Ayasuluk Citadel
October 10, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
On the same ticket as the Basilica, and just two minutes further up the hill are the ruins of this very impressive castle. There have been castles in continuous use on Ayasuluk Hill in Neolithic, Ephesian, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman timesRead more
TravelerWow! Literally a castle
10/11/22Reply
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Turkiye departure
October 10, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ -36 °C
After a lovely week in this fantastic country, it's time to move on to another destination. After the morning tour of the Basilica and Castle, retrieved my luggage from the guesthouse and it was just a 10 minute walk to the train station. Got there an hour before the train figuring to buy it and then chill with a tea at one of the nice sidewalk cafes. A pleasant station attendant helped with the ticket machine then waved me through. I said I was going to come back but she said the train was leaving now and showed a timetable. I had researched the schedule and was fairly certain my train left later, but deferred to local knowledge and jumped on as the door was closing, After pulling out I looked at the stops on the car poster vs Google Maps and determined we were at least headed in the right direction. After 3 or 4 stops, however, an announcement was made to 'get off the train'. I was then standing on the platform looking confused when a young man asked if I was going to the airport, and pointed to the train on the other side. Got on and off we went to continue the milk run.

Still got to the airport so early I asked if there was an earlier flight and the agent put me on one leaving in 30 minutes then struggled to be sure I had a visa for Jordan. By the time we sorted that out, it was 15 minutes to departure and I still had security. Still made it to the gate and when I boarded, they announced "Boarding Complete". Travel is always an adventure.

So have 6 hours to kill at IST. Spent a bit of time in a very nice high quality museum right in the international departure area that gives a pretty complete history of the various peoples and empires who came and went in Anatolia.

Turkey is a worthwhile destination. Have just scratched Istanbul, and the two destinations I added were only a few of the places worth seeing. There are many more scenic areas, the Aegean coast with islands and resorts and of course much more history. Some travelers come here again and again, and maybe I'll be back.Read more
Travelertravel is an adventure for you. What you just related would be traumatic for me!
10/10/22Reply
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Amman Citadel
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Started off the day at the highest point in the city, wisely taking an Uber up (JD 1.50). Evidence has been found of occupation going back to the Bronze Age, but the remains seen today are from the Romans and and Umayyads. The Romans conquered the city in 30 BC and named the city Philadelphia. The Muslims conquered it in 681 CE.

The impressive Temple of Hercules has just a few of the 10m tall columns left. (The same height as the Parthenon on Athens).

The cave tomb is from the early Bronze Age, 23rd century BC

The Umayyad section is further back and has the remains of the large palace, of which the domed entrance hall is still standing.

Also worth going up to the site for are the 360 degree views of Amman.Read more
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Jordan Archaeological Museum
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
This museum, located inside the Citadel, was an unexpected bonus as I had read it was closed Tuesdays, but found it open as I walked by.

It was opened in 1951 and is an old-fashioned sort of place, but the artefacts inside were numerous and interesting. I also liked that they did the history by era with descriptions for each age of the climate, political organization, tools and technology, arts, etc. so that one could trace how things evolved.

One thing I had never seen before was a display of clay anthropoid coffins which were a burial practice from the 13th to the 7th century BC and rarely seen. Some of the coffins have arms and the face of the deceased sculpted on the outside,Read more
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Museums of Popular Tradition & Folklore
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
These two small museums are inside the entrance to the Roman Theatre.

The Jordanian Museum of Popular Traditions showcases traditional items from Jordanians and Palestinians in order to preserve their heritage for the future. and was opened in 1971. There are displays with traditional costumes and mannequins, masks, and jewelry, cooking utensils and vessels, brides’ dresses, and jewelry from the West Bank are found in the fourth hall. One room contains 6th century mosaics from Jerash and Madaba’s Byzantine churches. It was all very colourful and attractive.

The Jordan Folklore Museum is divided into different facts of life in the country. Various sections show exhibits including work, home life, farming, professions, markets, housing, and more. The museum exhibits cover the 19th and early 20th centuries.
I learned a little about the desert, Bedu culture, and culture in towns and cities from seeing the clothes, jewelry, old household utensils, tools, traditional daggers, and a mosaics section. The Bedouin section of the museum shows a tent made of goat hair, and various tools used by Bedouins. Also see looms, coffee grinders, costumes, tea-making utensils, and the rababa, a Bedouin instrument that uses only one string.Read more
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Hashem Restaurant
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
The place is mentioned in every single guidebook and is even shown on the sign that points out landmarks in the view from the Citadel. A street vendor has become the biggest attraction in the city.

Busiest place in town and although it is a tourist attraction, the vast majority of the customers were locals. . Barely got a table. Order by filling out a form. Bought too much as I didn't knew 1 falafel gives you 3 pieces, and trying two kinds of hummus, (regular and mixed). Certainly did not need the extra order of filled falafel. The lunch also came with 3 pitas. Glass of tea, and there was fresh mint on the pickle plate to add to the tea. Delicious

4.5 JODRead more
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The Duke's Diwan
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
The word ‘diwan’ means ‘the guest’s place,’ a fitting name for this restored Levantine house. The Duke's Diwan is an old townhouse built in 1924 that was originally the first post office in Amman. It later housed the Ministry of Finance, and was then used as a hotel. The doors and windows are the originals from the early 1900s. Locally known as the Duke of Mukhaybeh, Mamdouh Bisharat, who is a notable businessman in Jordan, undertook the restoration. The house is the oldest residence in Amman, and is located near the downtown area.

It is a restored house with furnishings from the 1920s and there are a number of items from the period when it was the Haifa Hotel. Although retored, the surfaces and walls certainly show their age. It is interesting that the oldest house in this ancient city was built in 1924. Testament to the observation that each civilization- Greek, Roman, Byzantine Ottoman etc just builds on top of their predecessor.

Out front is a balcony with a view over the busy shopping street below.

On entering, you are offered a tea to enjoy as you contemplate the surroundings.Read more
TravelerI am not sure I'd like this place....abit run down but good that you appreciate it!
10/14/22Reply
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Rainbow Street
October 11, 2022 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We'll see if it was worth the climb.

This street is touted as the trendy street to see and be seen. To me it had more of a shopping than cafe or club vibe It was rather quiet, but it was the smoothest and cleanest street in Amman. Did find one corner cafe that was very inviting looking so I had an iced tea. Lived dangerously as I have only been drinking water I sterilize myself, so hope the ice is good! What wasn't good was the price -- 4 JDRead more
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