Paris, Basque Country & Camino

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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Travel to Guernica
June 5, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
On leaving San Sebastian, we headed out to the fishing village of Getaria where the first person to circumnavigate the globe was born. In 1519-1522, Juan Elcano set out with Magellan in 5 ships. Magellan died and only the Victoria with 35 survivors returned. We stopped to appreciate the history of Guernica and the art it inspired. The Spanish Civil War 1936 -1939 started with Franco invading from the South of Spain via Morocco. He won because of support from the other two fascist leaders Hitler and Mussolini. A carpet bombing in the heart of the Basque country assembly house took place on Market Day in 1937; after this, Picasso painted perhaps the most symbolic anti-war painting ever. The painting was in New York until Franco died and then moved to Spain as Picasso wished. We visited the Assembly hall where for centuries Biscay parishes sent its representatives to discussed problems and established laws that governed life, these were abolished in 1876. We had another great Basque lunch in Guernica. Finally, we stopped at a sheep farm to make yogurt (quark) before heading for our stay in Bilbao. Beautiful rugged coastal views and inland mountainous areas with villages nestled between valleys were our views today.Read more
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Sheep farm
Jun 5–7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Our guide reminded us that Spain’s the 3rd most mountainous country after Switzerland and sheep and cheese production has a strong heritage. We passed classic Etxhas. The laxta (latcha) sheep make a special strong cheese only made in the Basque Country. The raw milk is brought just under the boiling point. Rennet is added to coagulate it, and it becomes quark or eventually hard cheese.Read more
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Bilbao
June 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The Guggenheim Museum of modern Art was built 1993-97 on site of an inactive factory in a ex prosperous city with 30% unemployment whose leaders envisioned a transformation. The Guggenheim administration in NYC were out of space so consideration was given first to a European location. Salzburg and Venice were in the running and but Bilbao was chosen as the best fit. It was financed by the local interests and paid for itself in 3 years 1.3 million visitors per year. Beth and I agreed that the architecture and setting were outstanding (although being modern art, some of the pieces were questionable in our eyes).Read more
Traveler Cool!
6/8/25Reply
TravelerSounds like this city is very lucky to have this museum
6/8/25Reply
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A walk around the neighborhood
June 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
After the Guggenheim we sought some lunch and found it in the pedestrian mall behind our hotel. They had a table at Basko so we took it. Very pleasant although the last few days have been dampened by La Grippe (Spanish for a cold). We had a last lovely organized dinner at Lake which means home in Basque with our group and I had Monkfish and there was Basque cheesecake, lemon ice cream and a light layered treat for dessert! We bid Adieu to the group.Read more
Maybe not as good as yours Nancy? [Mom]
6/12/25Reply
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Madrid
Jun 7–9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We decided to take the nearby tram to the Bilbao Bus Intramodal Station which was very smooth. We had a very comfortable ride on Alsa Supra class arriving at 4 pm. It was hot and extremely crowded at the airport with long line ups for Uber and Taxi. A kind Brit helped us purchase tickets and we took the Metro to Plaza Espana where we were staying.Read more
Traveler Look like awesome seats!
6/8/25Reply
Traveler Ahh yes ... Spain and its "jamon"!
6/9/25Reply
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Palacio de Real Madrid
June 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
As we did not have time to go to Versailles, Europe's second largest palace (and still in active use) was the destination for our one day in Madrid. We found a café kitty corner to the palace and enjoyed our Spanish omelet and fresh orange juice. Then we met up for an English speaking tour of the palace. Beth liked it. We had a break and headed over to the Special Collections wing, which Nancy found amazing, but Beth had to break early due to coughing. Unfortunately, we were both feeling under the weather, and it was 30 degrees, so the bounce in our steps was affected today.Read more
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Galeria De Las Colecciones Real
June 8, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
This is a fantastic extremely modern and wonderfully air conditioned museum that opened up next to the Palacio de Real in 2023. No downsizing of one of a kind Royal treasures here! The downloaded audio guide was excellent as were the English written summaries. It is amazing to see such old things in like new condition. Following this we headed back to prep for our next day picking up some decongestants on the way. Thus ended our adventure: both with colds but in agreement we had enjoyed a special time together. The next day, Nancy left first to subway to the train which would take her to Saria and the start of the last 100 km Camino Frances walk. Beth would take a taxi to the airport and fly to Paris where the Novotel was waiting before her flight back to Kelowna via Calgary with WestJet.Read more
Was ever in doubt??? [Mom]
6/12/25Reply
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Travel to Sarria and CDG
June 9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today, Beth is heading home via Paris and Nancy back north to Sarria to begin the Camino walk. The young man at the front desk of the hotel strongly recommended that Nancy take the metro to the train station and Beth take a taxi to the airport. We both had our anxieties about finding our way. For Nancy, the metro path was rather confusing with directions initially to the Line 3 platform and then upstairs to get to Line 10. Rush hour, so she had let three go by and finally got on with all the other sardines. They are renovating the Chamartin station, so not straightforward but eventually found her way to the departure board. Platforms are assigned 10 minutes ahead. 300km/hr to Ourense, but the train halted just outside a very pretty looking town. The schedule had only 14 minutes of connection time between trains, but they held it for our late arrival. Followed the masses and some backpacks with walking sticks to one of two waiting trains confirmed as Sarria. Beth texted that she was at her gate with over an hour to spare. Whew…we did it, Beth!Read more
Traveler Wow that’s a lot of peppers!
6/12/25Reply
TravelerSlay!!
6/12/25Reply
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin 23km
June 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Perhaps St Christopher, the patron Saint of travellers, is looking out for me as I felt better in the cool, misty morning air after a pretty good sleep. Left at 0640, having a banana and yogurt that I bought the night before as breakfast didn’t open til 7 and expecting high temps. Stopped at 0830 for a bocadillo and my first Aquarius, which is like Gatorade but less colouring. Met Lily, a young woman from Hong Kong. Stopped three times for drinks and s tuna empanada and banis as with drinking do much so needed them. Avoided any problems, although an ambulance had been called for a man about my age, probably who was not feeling well, but it seems he got dehydrated or overheated. Arrived hot and sweaty into a lovely cool room and showered and had a rest.Read more
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Portomarin
Jun 10–13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Portomarin is a very picturesque town with a well kept main street: Calle Compestella. Menu del dia at Supendo Casa de Comides was very good, home cooking: vino blanco, Galician soup, and grilled hake with salad. €15 including dessert and coffee. Walk around town very neat and tidy with lovely Romanesque church moved when they flooded the river to make a reservoir. Saw some teenage boys who were fairly attesting to their Celtic roots.Read more
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Day 2: Portomarin to Palas de Rei 26km
Jun 11–12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
I didn’t sleep well despite top notch accommodation as I was a bit worried about the long mileage day ahead. Surprised it was raining out and rolling thunder delayed my start; a bit disorganized finding umbrella etc. On the other side of the the bridge it rained heavily and I found walking with an umbrella in one hand and poles in the other quite effective. A lot of people seem to have left the same time so jockeying around to allow a steady pace. The rain and crowds eventually settled out. Decided to have soup for lunch as I enjoyed it so much last evening and an Asian man asked me to point it out on the menu. I offered him half my jamon sandwich as it was huge do he sat down with me after insisting he pay for half. Grant is 69 and decided to do this walk as the tour company feels 70 is too old to take the risks of the walk. He was two hours ahead of the rest of his group he says: they are the group that were at breakfast at my hotel and are from Taiwan. We had an engaging chat and he shared his canned white asparagus with me before I had to get on my way. The town of Monterey was particularly memorable with neat as a pin houses next to farm machinery and the barn; in fact the shepherd and his trusty dog herded them out to pasture as I walked through. A lovely day but I was feeling very tired and on arrival in Palas de Rei I passed the town church as I descended to find my hotel.Read more
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Palas de Rei
June 11, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
I realized after unpacking, showering and handwashing the day’s clothes, that I was more or less “toasted”. Jackie from hike the Way had warned me that often one feels sleep needs to trip eating. I didn’t want much: found a spot close by, ordered another soup; this one similar to last nights with beans, kale and potatoes. Headed to bed thankful for my practical comfortable room and that I had divided the next stage of 18 miles over two days.Read more
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Day 3: Palas de Rei to Melide 14km
June 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Today’s walk is 9 miles, so I started late and took my time, arriving before 2. Did the usual routine and decided to keep life simple and have the menú del día in the restaurant. €14 for soup, roasted chicken, an excellent local red wine and pistachio cannoli for dessert! Done just before 5. I decided since it was grey and rather windy to just stay in and relax as I was again feeling quite tired. My body appreciated it! Self care is essential in this trip.Read more
TravelerMmm pistachio cannoli sounds so good!
6/16/25Reply
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Melide
June 12, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
I had a reasonably good rest and felt energized. The breakfast area was very busy with walkers and cyclists ready to hit the road and there was a lot of luggage for transfer in the lobby. Today is about 8 miles so I gave myself permission to be at the tail of the pack. A kind man pointed The Way out of town after I had taken in Melide’s main sights. I hadn’t realized there was a pilgrim museum as well but had missed its opening yesterday evening. This was a day of Mindful walking and I didn’t mind the intermittent showers. Rolling thunder kept me moving ahead from a very pleasant spot with a restaurant offering a pilgrim’s menu for €16. I reached my destination at 2 pm so took 6 hours with a couple of breaks in which I had a cake and some chips. Although the empanadas were enticing, yesterday’s meal worked out so well I held off.Read more
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
Day 4: Melide to Arzua 14km
June 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Another 9 mile day, so started on the late side taking in the main sights. Of note was the large church just as I was leaving Melide. I took note of the water streams which are plentiful, the trees, flowers and especially the lovely birds a twitter in all the trees. Eventually caught up with some people but did not really have any noteworthy conversations today.Read more
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Arzua
June 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Pension Boutique Nene was in some ways the least satisfactory accommodation as the room was very small and there was no place to put anything except the other bed. For some reason the sounds of anything in the building echoed through loudly. The receptionist also gave me inaccurate information about the menu del dia at their restaurant by the same name. It had good reviews so I went there. No such thing. The scallops were good but expensive given nothing else along with them. However this was redeemed by a very nicely served breakfast the next morning.Read more
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Day 5: Arzua to O Pino 18km
Jun 14–15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
The weather was perfect today: temperature, breeze and the sun dotting in and out periodically. Everything along The Way was beautiful from flowers…vegetable gardens…oaks…eucalyptus…birdsongs…babbling brooks and the randomness of Galicia’s gardens. There is no doubt that in trying to organize gardens too neatly, something is lost. It was a bit confusing to find my accommodation and it is the closest thing to an albergue I have stayed in. I was very pleasantly surprised. Not only a decent kitchen and laundry but a spa was available. My luggage had gone to another pension by mistake but was quickly retrieved once Doug had advised me where the Samsung SmartTag was. I was bubbling away and quite enjoyed it. The hunt for dinner proved harder than in other spots but I ended up in a cozy communal café called The Way …chatting with three Americans. Ken and Andre had done the whole Camino Frances and advised me as a solo woman I’d be fine… how did they know??…they were part of a group of 10. The other woman Doddie had just finished her 2nd Camino at age 70, Thirty-five days solo on the Camino Norte which has a reputation of one of the most difficult. I certainly felt the baby in the group but quite alright with it…feeling I had met my personal goals and having no need to stretch further or add on to my 'Essence of the Camino' experience.Read more
Traveler Doug: Are you planning on getting a souvenir tattoo?
6/15/25Reply
Traveler So cute
6/16/25Reply
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
O Pino
Jun 14–15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
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Day 6: O Pino to Santiago de Compostela
Jun 15–16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The lively conversation with the high mileage pilgrims the evening before included speculation on how to outrun the anticipated crowds in the final stage of 13 miles. I had not found the crowds an issue as I had a mental framework going in that true pilgrimages around the worlds are often crowded at the end; it isn’t necessarily a more solitary walk which those folks had definitely had a chance to embrace more than I. Thus I would let things flow and try to savour my last day as it almost seemed short yet physically I felt ready to say “done!” As it turned out a rattle of a door in the hallway woke me at 5:15 am. Even though my body said it could use more rest my mind said might as well get going. At least I’d be ahead of the huge youth group staying at the Albergue. Therefore at 0630 am I was very surprised to see them all packed and ready to go. Don’t assume anything! Quick bite at the cafeteria CHE of fresh orange juice and toast with olive oil and the fresh tomato spread that is usually served here at breakfast that I had not yet tried. Then off walking savouring all the usual sensory inputs which gradually faded as civilization crept closer. All my spontaneous stops have worked out along The Way and I decided without checking Google reviews to sit down at a spot on the main road where they offered pulpo galego ie cut up boiled octopus sprinkled with paprika… as a tapa. This is likely the last time I will eat octopus due to a moving show I saw called My Octopus Teacher…..but like trying the escargot in Paris there is a time to just do it. As I settled in, a very pleasant woman asked if I was Camino-ing solo and Sandy from Washington state and I had a very pleasant lunch together. I had about 4 miles left and it ended up seeming quite long as gone were the trees and shade when I entered the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela. Gradually the spires of the church came into view and I walked through the historical core to the sound of a piper but it was hot and I was rather desperate to find my hotel. Once there and tidied up I had to push myself out to take in the 7:30 pm mass which was conducted mostly in Spanish. The bishop said a prayer in English at the end that all the pilgrims make it home safely. I again ducked into a doorway as I walked back to the hotel finding inside a delightful restaurant where I had battered hake with hand cut fries and salad and decided I d drop in again tomorrow.Read more
Traveler Great photo!
6/18/25Reply
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Paris, Basque Country & Camino Traveler
A Walk in Santiago de Compostela
June 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
I met with our Guru Walks guide Sandy. She started by going over the name of Santiago in various countries. In Canada we know him as Saint James. He was an apostle who taught in the Iberian Peninsula but on return home to Jerusalem was beheaded by King Harrod. Legend goes that his body was taken back to the Iberian Peninsula where it stayed until the 900s AD. A hermit following a series of bright stars found the spot and the bishop travelled 20 miles to confirm. King Alfonso was the first pilgrim and travelled to the spot and ordered a church to be built. Thus Santiago Compostela came to be.Read more
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The Pilgrim Office and Cathedral
June 16, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After the historical tour, I headed to the Pilgrims Office which is very 21st century organized … after all, over 2000 pilgrims checked in as arriving yesterday. I paid €3 to have the Compestela with the 115 km added and bought a travel tube and small pin to mark the occasion. Then, after getting a couple of souvenirs, headed to the cathedral. This is one of three Christian pilgrimage destinations the other two being Jerusalem and Rome. It is amazing today and must have seem other worldly in the Middle Ages. It somehow seemed a very intimate cathedral as we were allowed to go downstairs to the tomb of Saint James as well as walk in and out of the high altar where it is customary for many to give him a hug, The man behind me did so and I was reminded to touch St James shoulder; one is just not used to being able to touch this type of thing. With time now short, I headed back to the cafeteria I ate at last night before and was again very happy with my salad and burger. Finally, a slice of very delicious almond Santiago cake and an Americano. Found my way back to pick up some almond cookies from a nun at the monastery as the shutters in the wall were now open. I returned to the hotel and the walk at 89 F reminded me how fortunate I have been on my Camino with the weather.

Called a taxi to head to the bus station which took me to the Porto Airport to fly out the next day. It took 1.5 hours drive to reach Valenca which is just across the bridge from Spain and the other common starting point that will earn the minimum distance for a Compostela. It is actually pretty far indeed!Read more
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Trip end
June 19, 2025