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SW Europe 2023
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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Maria Madre della Chiesa

    San Giovanni Laterno

    27 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Doug was wanting to get to this major basilica which was 'washed out' on our last trip.

    Although being rebuilt a few times due to earthquakes and fires, this is the oldest church in Europe. Founded during the fourth century in honour of St. John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, St John Lateran (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) is the Cathedral of Rome, in other words, the 'home' cathedral of the Pope, and therefore the most important of the four 'papal' basilicas. It is known as an Archbasilica, as is it considered the mother church of the Roman Catholic faithful. It is huge, and in fact was the largest church in Rome until St. Peter's. The interior is magnificent with colossal statues, built into the impressive columns. The mosaic in the apse was partly destroyed in a fire, but reconstructed to the original appearance.Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Villa Farnesina

    Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

    27 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It was very hot and crowded along Via Corso after leaving the Colonna Palazzo so Nancy and Jan bailed out of trying to get to the top of Capitoline Hill for a good view of the forum. After a lunch, Nancy and Janet went to the Massimo as Doug had been before and felt it was one of the top three museums in Rome.

    It is a reasonable size and has some very nice Greco-Roman sculpture, the famous frescoes from the Villa of Livia (3rd wife of Emperor Augustus) and intricate mosaics.    Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Bernini's Ecstasy of Saint TeresaBernini's Ecstasy of Saint TeresaMadonna del Carmine, BalzicoSt. Francis d'Assisi, Domenichino

    Santa Maria della Vittoria

    27 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Doug was able to get to this church which was missed on our last trip due to the thunderstorms on the day planned. This is considered the best example of Baroque church design. Saint Mary of Victory, was built from 1608 to 1620, as a chapel dedicated to Saint Paul for the Discalced Carmelites. After the Catholic victory at the battle of White Mountain in 1620, which was attributed to a miracle of the enemy blinded by light from the Chaplain's medallion, the church was rededicated to the Virgin Mary and fundraising allowed for a much more elaborate design. When the Borghese Hermaphroditus was discovered in the excavations, Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, appropriated this sculpture and in return, funded the work on the façade and lent his architect.

    The vault was frescoed in 1675 with triumphant themes within shaped compartments with feigned frames: The Virgin Mary Triumphing over Heresy and Fall of the Rebel Angels executed by Giovanni Domenico Cerrini in 1675.

    The masterpiece here is Ecstasy of St. Teresa by Scipione's favored sculptor, Bernini. The statues depict a moment as described by Saint Teresa of Avila in her autobiography, where she had the vivid vision of a Seraph piercing her heart with a golden shaft, causing her both immense joy and pain. The flowing robes and contorted posture abandon classical restraint and repose to depict a more passionate, almost voluptuous trance. to much controversy among Italian versions of the Puritans.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Tombs degli ArchettoPorta RomanaRiver and warehouse districtBathsTheatreLuxury 120AD Shopping MallCaseggiato del SerapideFloor of a "Domus"Cardonald Maximus to Forum

    Ostia Antica

    28 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Took the Metro, then train (very easy) about 40 minutes out of town. Ostia Antica was an ancient Roman city and the port of ancient Rome located at the mouth of the Tiber River, near modern Ostia, 25 km southwest of Rome. Due to silting and the invasion of sand, the site now lies 3 km from the sea. Today, the site is a giant, 100-hectare archaeological park with many excavations.

    The entire site is open for exploring and wandering, with a few general information signs about the "districts". The trees and the abundance of wild poppies make it all very peaceful. It was so wild that you can just walk into all these old buildings and even on the 2,000 year old mosaic floors!    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Bernini - The Rape of Proserpina
    Bernini - The Rape of ProserpinaBernini - The Rape of ProserpinaBernini - The Rape of ProserpinaBernini - Apollo and DaphneBernini - DavidBernini - DavidBernini - DavidCanova - Pauline Bonaparte as Venus VictrixBoy With A Basket of Fruit - Caravaggio, 1593Caravaggio - Young Sick BacchusThe Madonna and Child with St. Anne (Dei Palafrenieri) - CaravaggioCaravaggio - Saint Jerome Writing

    Galleria Borghese

    28 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We managed to get a ticket for Jan to join a tour of Villa Borghese after we accidentally booked for the three of us on the wrong date. Doug decided to go to Ostia Antica and Nancy went as a "companion" with Jennifer (City Tours) who arranged for her to enter free of charge. Nancy concluded she got a lot out of her second visit there (having gone in 2019), in part due to familiarity and review and also due to the excellent guided tour by a PhD in Art History.

    Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, commissioned and collected masterpieces of art into his private palazzo which became an art gallery and was sold to the Italian government in 1902 along with the estate.

    On the tour, we heard of the history of all the major pieces. Bernini's sculptures were a highlight. He started carving Apollo (god of music and poetry) and Daphne (a virginal nymph) when he was 23. Through the Vatican approved depiction of mythological characters; this contemporary theme of unwanted desire was considered to push the limits of acceptability, leading to the added inscription commissioned by Pope Urban VIII: "Those who love to pursue fleeting forms of pleasure, in the end find only leaves and bitter berries in their hands". David with the intense forward looking profile of the "Renaissance Man". Pauline, sister of Napoleon lying reclined in Roman style.

    Also a highlight were a number of masterpieces by Caravaggio (1571-1610): He was a controversial, popular and influential painter for the technique he used which used shadow to emphasize lighter areas and his use of "common people". His subjects were often from the poor or outcast populations of Rome placed within the context of accepted biblical scenes.    Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Raphael's Deposition
    Raphael's DepositionCavaspina - AnonymousSacred and Profane Love - TitianGoat Amalthea with the Infant Jupiter and a Faun - Bernini Age 10Bust of Cardinal Scipione Borghese - Bernini

    Galleria Borghese 2nd Floor

    28 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    More masterpieces at the Borghese. Raphael's Deposition which had a very interesting acquisition story and Titan 's Sacred and Profound Love which was a customary prenuptial portrait of a bride and many symbolic meanings in the painting. Bernini's earliest known work at age 9 The Goat Amalthea with the Infant Jupiter and Faun. The second bust that Cardinal Borghese demanded be executed when the first marble had a flaw in it.Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Altar of the Conversion

    St Paul Outside the Walls

    28 мая 2023 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Doug had a major double surprise delight. He noticed he had to change trains on the way back at "St. Paul" and checked the map to find that is the location of the last of the papal basilicas he was trying to get to. Then, a sublime moment when a twenty person choir started setting up for a concert of classical chorale works.

    Erected during the fourth century AD, the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls (Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura) is one of the four major basilicas of Rome, and the second largest after St. Peter's Basilica. It was founded on the burial ground of St. Paul after his execution in the first century. The entrance is via a lovely courtyard with a statue of the Saint and a golden mosaic over the façade. Inside are enormous marble columns and above that, a row of portraits of every Pope to the present. There are only four empty places left though, so legend is the Judgement Day will be when the fourth Pope from now dies. I wish them all long lives.

    Then, to my delight, a 45 minute concert of voices in this perfect setting. Goosebumps as a single soprano sings Pie Jesu and fills this massive space without microphones.    Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Travel to Nice

    29 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Italrail at 0655h from Rome to Genoa to Ventimiglia along the Italian Rivera then French TER along the French Rivera to Nice arriving 1700h A rather long trip; the Italian trains proved challenging, especially when we got off walker, luggage and all and realized at the first of two downtown Genoa stops 2-minutes apart and quickly clamored on again hoping everything was aboard before it took off. As soon as we passed into France, we noted the polite formality of the French people who offered us help getting off the train. Best Western Brice Garden is a nice modern full service hotel, so a nice luxurious change of pace.Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Villa & Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild

    30 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild was built on a promontory on the isthmus of Cap Ferrat overlooking the Mediterranean Sea between 1907 and 1912 by Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild (1864–1934). a member of the Rothschild banking family and the wife of the banker Baron Maurice de Ephrussi, The gardens are classified by the Ministry of Culture as one of the Remarkable Gardens of France, whilst the villa itself has been classified as a monument historique since 1996. Upon her death in 1934, the Baroness donated the property and its collections to the Académie des Beaux-Arts division of the Institut de France. It is now open to the public.

    Doug and Nancy caught the bus for a 30 minute hill top climb from Nice to visit this Villa and gardens which was very interesting and had beautiful views over the bay to Nice. Doug was a bit unsettled by this "playground of the wealthy" ; Nancy said she liked it and could fit right in.....    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Promenade des Anglais

    30 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    On arrival back in Nice after visiting the Rothchild estate, Nancy and Doug picked up some fixings for lunch which we ate on the patio of the hotel with Jan then we all headed out for a walk along the promenade. Jan was not impressed by the cobblestoned beach thinking the 'famous French Riviera' should at least have fine sand. but the views and walk were lovely.

    Starting in the second half of the 18th century, the English aristocracy took to spending the winter in Nice, enjoying the panorama along the coast. In 1820, some of the English proposed that they could work on the construction of a walkway along the sea. It was funded by the Reverend Lewis Way and members of Holy Trinity Anglican Church. The city of Nice, intrigued by the prospect of a pleasant promenade, greatly increased the scope of the work. It extends from the airport on the west to the Quai des États-Unis ("United States Quay") on the east, for a distance of approximately 7 km.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Nice Old Town

    30 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We dipped into Nice Old Town to find a place for dinner. There was an atmospheric plaza avec accordion minstrel to add to the ambiance. We sat down at a Le Clocher and had a memorably unimpressive meal that did not match the lovely setting in any way. On looking at the sea bass fillet with béarnaise sauce, Nancy asked Doug if he though it might make him sick and he said "it could". He ate it anyway but didn't get ill thank goodness. In any trip there's going to be accommodation or meals that are less than you hope and this was one of those times. The rest of Old Town seemed rather run down so we did not feel it was a highlight of Nice.Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Massena Museum

    31 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Doug and Janet took this in while Nancy got caught up on a few things at the hotel. The museum is a nicely presented exhibition of some of the historical images of Nice and of paintings of battles of the Napoleonic Wars and portraits of generals including the namesake of the museum

    The villa and museum were named after Victor Masséna, grandson of Marechal Andre Massena, Prince of Essling, Duke of Rivoli, one of Napoleon’s generals. After its completion, the villa initially served as the winter residence of the Masséna family for many years. After the death of the father, the son inherited the villa. He sold it in 1919 to his hometown Nice. The latter converted the villa into today’s museum and made it accessible to the general public.

    After the museum, we all reunited at Bar des Chauffeurs where we had a pleasant lunch before departing to catch the train to Avignon.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Travel to Avignon

    31 мая 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    A 1530h Ouigo high speed double decker from Nice with a change in Aix-en-Provence. Stress point was when it was feared Nancy got on the wrong train as she had been assigned a different car than Doug and Janet. However, all was well and we caught a taxi to check-in in our two bed apartment in the centre of Avignon: Hotel Garlande Le Madeleine. It was drizzling and this historical centre on first glance appeared rather deserted. The apartment cheered us up as it was spacious and nicely appointed. Jan decided she would use the next day to catch up on some rest.Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Les Halles Market

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Doug and Nancy started the day at the local market where there was a good selection of everything we needed plus. Nancy decided on a local cured sausage and a local olive and anchovy tapenade; the later which no one was fond of. Somewhat expensive but excellent produce and after you get used to having fresh bread you never want to return to the sliced frozen we have at home.Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Gordes

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After breakfast, Doug and Nancy went to pick up the rental car at the TGV station. This time a stick shift Renault. Odd gear shifting meant a few stalls as Doug got used to things in the parking lot before heading on to the highway. Soon we were out into the country side.

    Gordes is an all stone town with a spectacular setting that has been occupied since Neolithic times. It was picturesque from a distance; but we did not get out to explore the town.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The Provençal Abbey is a Cistercian Abbey which is best-known for its lavender production. The abbey is still in use today and seven times a day, the monks who reside there gather to pray together in the church. The monks make their livelihood by selling lavender and tending to honeybees. It was founded in 1148 and the church was consecrated in 1178.

    We viewed the Abbey from the outside, as the opening times did not fit with our visit, but Rick Steves advised it was nothing special on the inside. It did have a nice gift shop and we bought some sable cookies made locally.

    It was pleasant on the grounds, so we were able to enjoy our picnic lunch on a bench under a shade tree.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Moroccan Press

    Royere Museum of Olive Oil

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    La Royère by the village of Oppède is an organic wine and olive oil producer
    with visits & tastings. The museum is very educational about all aspects from picking to production, old presses to modern technology.

    The domesticated Olea Europa olive tree adapts very well to dry and sunny climates. Pruning is performed at the end of winter to maintain open space in the center of the tree, which enables sunlight to reach all the branches. Harvesting is performed with rakes that literally comb the branches and begins in November when the fruits become ripe.

    There are around 30 different pressing units, cultivation tools, transport and storage equipment, miller tools, etc.

    This private collection of Olive Oil making tools was really quite extensive and an interesting stop. This was one of the highlights of Provence.    Читать далее

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Fontaine-de-Vaucluse

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This village of about 600 people is the location of the largest underground spring in France and is the source of the river Sorgue. It once had several paper mills powered by the water flow, but is now a pretty tourist town. It also has an very ancient and austere church in the Romanesque style dating back to the 10th century called St. Veran.

    The water in the fast flowing river here was unique. The water plants growing at the bottom with the clear water flowing atop and the sunlight filtering through gave the river a green iridescence that we had never seen before - very memorable. We decided to enjoy a drink in a riverfront café to enjoy this bucolic scene of the town buildings, bridge, ruins from the mill, water and the striking granite cliffs in the background. Unfortunately, our break was cut short by approaching thunder. Would have definitely liked to have lingered here, perhaps for dinner.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Day 41 Provence Day 1

    1 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A driving tour of the Luberon region east of Avignon. Easy driving conditions and so much to see in only 100km: An agricultural region with many farms, orchards, vineyards and roadside produce stands giving way to beautiful scenery in foothills and mountains.

    Left the car in the public lot by the Rhone just outside the city walls and walked back to our apartment.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник
    Cathédrale Saint-Trophime
    Cathédrale Saint-TrophimeCathédrale Saint-TrophimeHôtel de Ville d'ArlesVan Gogh site - Le Café de NuitArènes d'ArlesArènes d'ArlesArènes d'ArlesArènes d'ArlesArènes d'ArlesRoman Theatre of ArlesVan Gogh site - Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé a ArlesAbbaye de Montmajour

    Arles

    2 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Rick Steves describes Arles as his favored base although less cosmopolitan than Avignon. Certainly a lot of things to see and we barely touched the surface of possibilities here. Jan got to see a Coliseum up close as she missed out in Rome, this one with a framework of sold blocks rather than brick filled with concrete. We also found a few of the Van Gogh 'spots'

    In the 6th century BC, the Greeks colonized the region. Under the Roman thumb, Arles thrived and surpassed its rival Marseille. Its glory started in the 1st century BC and lasted until the 5th. The town was a hub in the interconnecting land and water ways, a port of importance (then the sea came much closer than it does now) and a center of Provençal culture. After the fall of the Roman empire, Arles languished and declined. The Roman structures fell into disarray, their stones used for Christian churches and monasteries. Today, the Arenes remains, but the theatre is more of a ruin: only two columns remain. In the 12th century Arles had a strong revival, magnificently shown by the church of St Trophime. Its portal is rich in splendid carvings.

    One element of Arles' history is of great interest: Vincent van Gogh, the Dutch painter spent just fifteen, dramatic, months in this town and made 200 paintings here, the locations of some of which are marked with plaques.

    On the outskirts of town is Montmajour Abbey but we only viewed it from outside as accessibility looked limited, and there were many other stops to make today. We did drive through a charming town called Fontveille    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    Carrières des Lumières

    2 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We really enjoyed this. Well worth the $. The masterpieces also are semi animated with some movement. Also impressive to see a quarry where much of the stone in the buildings we see must have come from. This is the only venue for this in Europe although there are others in the world.

    The quarries were dug out over the years to extract the limestone. Masterpieces are projected onto the huge walls, pillars and floors of the quarry. with over a hundred video projectors project images onto more than 7,000 m² of floor space. The current show is called From Vermeer to Van Gogh, the Dutch Masters. This digital creation presents the genius of the Painters of the North with a veritable immersion in authentic painting, close to nature and its subjects.    Читать далее

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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Путешественник

    St. Paul de Mausole

    2 июня 2023 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We squeezed in one last stop to this Romanesque monastery that was built during the 11th-century in the foothills of the Alpilles mountains and just southwest of Saint-Rémy de Provence. Over the subsequent centuries, the monastery became a psychiatric asylum. The resident monks devoted themselves to treating those who required solace and care from the suffering of dementia. Saint-Paul de Mausole, to this day, continues to be a psychiatric health institution.

    Vincent Van Gogh voluntarily entered Saint-Paul de Mausole Asylum from the city of Arles where he was living. Vincent was only at there for just over a year. From 8 May 1889 until 16 May 1890.

    Drove through Saint-Remy-de-Provence on the way back to Avignon and it looks like a very pretty town worth spending some time in. We had to return the car by 1800h and with traffic jams, just made it at 1758h! The gas station near the rental agency had diesel but believe it or not the nozzle was too big to fit into the fill outlet of the Renault and the station attendant couldn't figure it out either! Always something unexpected! Doug negotiated a €7.50 charge for fuel.    Читать далее

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