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The Camino Revisited 2018
  • Rosie Marzouk
  • Rosie Marzouk

The Camino Revisited 2018

We are off to walk the Camino in Spain again, this time starting in Pamplona and finishing in Finisterre, 42 days of walking, with some rest days interspersed. Week first in San Diego visiting Michael’s family, and 6 days in San Francisco on return. Okumaya devam et
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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
    Early morning light

    A stunning walk...now at Triacastela

    8 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another amazing day...I think the last 2 days - climbing up to O Cebreiro and today descending to Triacastela are probably the most spectacular of the Camino. We walked 22 kms, descended from 1330 metres altitude to here which is 675 metres, so quite a lot of downhill walking!

    We left a bit before 8, when it was not quite light, and was 2°...I was really happy I had gloves! But it was a magic time...it got lighter each minute, and it was totally clear, no mist even down in the valleys below, so this spectacular scene gradually revealed itself, and continued all day. For the most part, we undulated along the shoulder of the mountains, at one point having a steep ascent to an altitude even greater than O Cebreiro!! Then we continued, still quite high with amazing valley views in all directions, till we finally made the big descent to Triacastela. We could see a town in the distance and couldn’t believe it could be where we were to go...but it was! Just a beautiful walk through the Galician countryside.

    Galicia is a different world from the Camino till now. We have the stone walls, houses, slate or thatched roofs, and we walk through dairy farms, and see and smell cows. It just feels like a new country, and the language is different...a lot of words with X, rather like Basque! (Though am sure the Basques and the Galicians would not agree!). Also we notice another difference...much more tourism...busloads came to O Cebreiro, and today we came across several guided tours of walkers, and even a tour of horse riders doing the Camino! SO glad we are free to do our own thing!! Of course, after a rest day, you see a new group of walkers anyway. Also, after Sarria where we walk to tomorrow, there are potentially many more pilgrims as a lot of people start there and do that last section to Santiago...but hopefully, as it is now October, we won’t notice too much increase in the walker population.

    I’ll add a couple of photos, and if it goes well, will send more as we have so many stunning ones to choose from!    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Walk to Sarria - 18 kms

    9 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A walk through the picture postcard scenery of Galicia! We left at just after 8, in only 6° today! And here in Sarria it is almost hot...not cold anyway...about 20° or more. We have come down in altitude, from 680 metres in Tricastela to only 455 in Sarria. However it was a hilly walk, and will be all the way through Galicia, as there is no flat part. We had to go up quite high before finally coming down to Sarria, but through just delightful countryside...

    We walk through many dairy farms - there are now cows, with serious horns, grazing or in milking sheds, corn (some already harvested, and some green and lush), lots of vegetables - especially cabbages. We even saw some sheep and lambs today. And beautiful birch forests, and always oak and chestnut trees. I forgot to mention a thousand year old chestnut tree we passed on the way into Tricastela yesterday, so will include a photo of it today. Huge and gnarled...quite amazing.

    So we arrived into Sarria today at about 1.30, to our very flash 4 star hotel - Alfonso IX! Our bags hadn’t yet arrived which was a bit of a worry at first as they usually are always magically there waiting for us...but they turned up before we had time to panic!! Our hotel is right near the river, and we can just cross on a pedestrian bridge and on the other side is a line of good eateries where we had lunch, and where we will also eat tonight, as the rest of the town is up a huge set of steps, mostly lined with albergues and hostals. There are also,of course, old churches, and this is largely a pilgrim city and where many people start walking for the last 100 kms. The Camino leads up the stairs so we will have to do it again tomorrow ...will have more energy in the cool morning I hope!

    The Camino now has a very different ambience....it started a bit in O Cebreiro, but is more pronounced now. There are more people, and the average age has dropped madly! There are many young people here for a 7 to 10 day adventure....it feels like that anyway...Before, we had been surprised that the average age of walkers was more like 55-65, with some younger and older of course, but now there seem to be many more younger people, going very fast and having a good time. But some of the serenity has gone - mostly in the towns and bars - there is plenty of calm when walking through the beautiful countryside.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Pretty walk to Portomarin

    10 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was again beautiful - weather and countryside. We walked 24.5 kms, and quite a bit of up and down, but don’t feel too weary!! The worst ascent was out of Sarria first thing...we had to climb up all the stairs, but then the path led us up a lot of uphill after that...then we walked quite high up through gorgeous rural scenery, often along paths shaded by canopies of oak and chestnut trees...just lovely. And there were the usual cows, corn, cabbage patches, lots of vegetable gardens, chooks and roosters crowing.

    We took our time, slow and steady. Stopped at one bar for a Cola Coa (the BEST hot chocolate) and had lunch of bread and cheese and mandarins, that Amr had hunter-gathered yesterday, sitting on a stone wall in the shade.

    Portomarín is a pretty town, set by a river that has been dammed, so it sits perched high up on what was once a river bank, but is now a valley with a little trickle of a river....you have to walk right down to the level of the bridge over the “river” and then climb up steps on the other side to reach the town itself...not what you feel like after walking 24 kms!! But we remembered this, so were prepared. Now at quite a grand hotel - spacious and comfortable AND Amr spotted a laundry as we arrived, so of course he has washed all our dirty clothes again!! Excellent!

    Our Camino family people have been at the last couple of towns, but we haven’t seen them except for Jessica once or twice as we walked. When we stay at different hotels we often are all too busy showering and relaxing etc. to find others, so we may not cross paths till Santiago, which is on Monday!! Our run of perfect weather is destined to end tonight so the prediction says. Tomorrow has showers till about 1 o’clock , but fine after that....so may not be too bad. Then Friday is supposedly cloudy but fine, but 100% rain on Saturday. Then I think OK till Monday and Santiago day. The bad news is that our 5 days of walking to Finisterre after 2 days in Santiago looks like a totally wet week!!! Oh well...may not be pouring every day...but I fear the rainy season is starting. Wifi not fabulous so will send photos separately.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
    12th century church in Portomarin

    Photos walking to Portomarin

    10 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Will just try 3...forgot to mention that now in Galicia there are Camino signposts with an arrow, and giving the distance to Santiago in kilometres, to 3 decimal points!! We wonder why they didn’t place them when it was a simple distance not needing decimal points.Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
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    Photos from walk to Palas de Rei

    11 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Just arrived at Palas de Rei and wifi so good - sent off photos from yesterday, and while it is in a good mood will quickly send lovely scenery from today...we started in a little rain which didn’t last very long...another beautiful walk. Full report later today!Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Walking to Palas de Rei

    11 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A longish walk today - 25 kms - and again a lot of up and down...I had forgotten how hilly Galicia is!! Nowhere is flat. But again it was gorgeous scenery, which made up for the effort. And from now on our days are shorter distances...yesterday and today were the longest in this section...I think we had a few long ones early on. Anyway, we are here, showered and relaxing in the bar of this very pleasant “hotel”. It’s not really a hotel, but a complex...there are outdoor spaces with playground, and the accommodation is in rows of almost cabins...sort of lines of rooms...all beautifully equipped - great shower (very important). We were here 5 years ago, but it was raining when we arrived I seem to remember.

    Today we were so lucky. It did rain as predicted starting in the night, and we woke to raindrops and a wet scene. And it was dark - the sun doesn’t rise till 8.50 now, so with clouds it seemed dark longer, and we didn’t start walking till about 8.40, with ponchos and a light drizzle. This only lasted a short while, and finally we took off the ponchos (they had conveniently dried by then) and had a lovely walk. Again the Camino seems to go uphill from the towns which are by a river (Sarria and Portomarín anyway)...so we walk high in the hills, and today only a few dairy farms, often in wild land with wonderful views, and little villages now and then. Today I spotted eucalyptus trees....I remember this from before. They are in plantations, in neat lines, and I wonder why. Is it for the timber?

    One memorable thing from today, with our new batch of pilgrims, we saw a baby being pushed in a stroller along the Camino...I don’t know how far they planned to go, or how long the baby would tolerate it...it was sleeping when we saw them..I think they were French. And another great thing was that just before we got here we stopped for a Cola Cao and OJ and Judy and Dorothy, our Canadian Camino family, walked up and so we walked with them for a while till they reached where they were staying. Lovely to see them, as we knew they were nearby, but you don’t always bump into people. Also Jessica was at our hotel last night, so we had a catch up with her too. All good. As we only have a fairly short walk tomorrow, and because we are now about a kilometre out of town, tomorrow morning we plan to see this town before setting off, and then head to our next destination which is Melide.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Walk to Melide

    12 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    A good shorter walk today, 16.4 kms, and no noticeably strenuous ups and downs. Still the pretty scenery and tree tunnels. And the weather has been kind!! Just cloudy today, and a cool wind...we had jackets on all the time..very pleasant. And we have gone back to wearing shorts, now that it’s not so cold and could rain..it is much preferable to have wet legs than to have wet pants. But we may be lucky..tomorrow is an even shorter day and rain is not expected to start till the afternoon...

    So now we are at Melide, a busy small town. Checked into our hotel and all clean and washing done. Checking in is always a mystery...sometimes they want one passport, sometimes 2 (and they write all details, DOB etc), and sometimes no passport required...and it’s not dependent on the higher status or category of hotel as far as I can see...! Today was a one passport day. Yesterday was no passport...once they had our name, we were ticked off and given a key and times for dinner and breakfast, and wifi code! Truly a mystery!

    One bad news..last night I had a bedbug....only one seen..as soon as I felt the itch I knew and turned on the light (had not yet been asleep so hadn’t been dark for very long)...and a search revealed only the one...any others had not yet had a chance to come out from hiding...anyway, we are now prepared and got our silk sleeping sheets, left the lights on and slept with eyeshades, after spraying the beds and bags..and leaving everything zipped up. No further problem, and in fact slept well as took a phenergan for the reaction! We told the hotel in the morning without any song and danceso they can decontaminate the room..it’s a really nice place and well run...this is just the hazard of these places where people come through each day, and have sometimes also stayed at not so good albergues and picked them up. Meanwhile I have an itchy and large reaction on my thigh and we are paranoid now and want to keep using the silk sheet bags and leave on the lights.

    Had fun walking today...we have got used to the larger number of people, and some are fun. There is a group of Irish who are always chatty and lovely - it was an Irishman who took the photo of both of us yesterday in the trees. And today we got talking to an Italian couple...they are a Camino romance - they met a few weeks ago at Puente La Reina. Judy and Dorothy had been walking with them yesterday and told us about them, so when we saw them today we got chatting and continued the story.

    We arrived at Melide fairly early, so stopped and had a little lunch - pulpo and a glass of Alberiño, followed by a coffee and Cola Cao. It is my favourite hot chocolate...they just fill a glass or cup with hot frothy milk and give you the sachet to stir in. While there we talked to a Spanish young woman we had seen on and off, very friendly and knowledgeable, and found out she was a guide for a group...was herding people, and gave them meeting points (this was one of them) as obviously they all walk in their own time...quite a job. She was Basque and worked for a Basque travel company.

    So now we are relaxing..not keen to go out on the town. Amr says it is Spain’s National day, but there is no visible sign that we have noticed of revelry! Maybe life on the Camino just continues as normal...they feed and house us! I think this wifi is good, but will do photos separately.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Another short walk to Arzúa

    13 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another very manageable walk - 15 kms - today, to Arzúa. We are now only 38 kms from Santiago de Compostela. We walked through the same rural loveliness, up and down but not too taxing, or we are just accustomed to it. And, most importantly, the rain did not come...and still hasn’t, in fact there is sun shining through the clouds at present. It will start in a few hours apparently, and rain during the night which is perfect. We will probably have some showers tomorrow morning, but who knows, we have been so lucky so far!

    So we are not actually right in Arzúa now...our instructions for our accommodation today were to go to a certain bar in Arzúa and ring to be picked up and driven to our hotel. Once we found the bar, we went back to an artisan cheese shop that remembered from last time (Arzúa has famous local cheeses) and had lunch there - a platter of assorted cheeses - it was an enormous amount of cheese, but we ate al we wanted, and thankfully had a plastic bag already with some picnic cheese, so added the leftovers....perfect! Then we went back to the appointed bar, had a coffee and a Cola Cao, and the man made the call for us - very easy and helpful - and 10 later we were picked up and driven to this very charming casa rural....all stone and wooden beams....about 8 minutes drive away. And we get dropped back in the morning to continue walking.

    Have to mention last night’s dinner at Melide. We were eating at the hotel, as were a few others who had half board...but when we got to the dining room at the appointed hour (7.30 this time) it was all set up for a function...Luís and Antonia’s 50th anniversary!! Already there were 3 American women there, and the waiter grumpily made up another table for us and another couple who arrived - we hastily said we would be 4 together as he was having to undo the set up tables, and seemed very put out!! So we all ate in a corner of the room with its decorations ready for the party which apparently was to start at 10 pm!!! Very Spanish. Anyway, the food turned out to be very good, and when we left at about 9 guests seemed to be drifting in. But I’m sure they were not sitting down and eating till at least 10.

    So we are here in a little idyllic place...some others we talked to are coming here too, so dinner should be interesting. We saw Dorothy and Judy again walking this morning, and they had seen Jessica, so we are still all in sync.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    A walk in the rain to A Rua

    14 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today we had our first rainy day, but the lovely thing was - we didn’t get wet!! That is, our feet, socks and insides of shoes stayed cosy and dry. It really was a very pleasant walk...the rain was mostly just little fuzzy droplets, and when occasionally it transformed to actual rain, it was so light it wasn’t soaking at all, plus for a lot of the time we walked through tree tunnels and under leafy canopies. So it was quite a beautiful walk! And it was clear on and off, and by the time we arrived here at 1.45 it had properly cleared up and was sunny.

    There are SO many eucalyptus trees here...some in orderly plantations, in perfect rows, and many grown up wild, self-seeded and in great abundance, mixed with the native oaks and chestnut trees. When we walked in the wet leaves it smelt like an Australian bush walk!

    So it was an easy 19 kms, undulating, and perfect walking temperature. A Rua is a tiny village. We stayed at this place last time, so we knew how to look for it (some people we talked to walked straight past, waiting for the “town”... in the last 5 years they have added a new wing of modern rooms and apartments round a pool which is where we are now...before we were upstairs in the old original stone house. Very easy and friendly, and they have a laundry so Amr is in the process of washing all our stuff before Santiago tomorrow, which is fabulous as I recall that there wasn’t one at all handy there...in fact I think we took a taxi to it!!! So we are all clean again.

    Tomorrow we walk the last 20 kms into Santiago and spend 2 nights there. And we will meet our “family” there at 6 o’clock for a drink and dinner! We have another group at the moment we keep seeing these last few days - we are all booked with the same people, so are staying at the same accommodation and getting to know each other. Three women from Oregon, a family with 2 teenage girls from Denver, and 3 older women - 2 sisters with their sister-in-law, also the couple from Washington DC that we had dinner with 2 nights ago...so quite sociable, but we all also have plenty of downtime. So tomorrow the entry to Santiago!    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
    2Here we are!
    With JessicaOur room1View from our room!!

    We are in Santiago de Compostela!!!

    15 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We made it!!! We are here and have photos to prove it. It was a rainy day, really, today...but still light enough that we stayed dry...feet, clothes etc, and on our arrival in Santiago the clouds parted and the sun shone!! It was quite a long walk, 22.4 kms, and seems endless as you enter a city. But we didn’t get lost this time, and found the cathedral properly! And we bumped into Jessica just about 15 mins before actually arriving at the cathedral square, which is the destination for all pilgrims, so we walked in together...so nice! This is excellent wifi, have just sent yesterday’s photos which wouldn’t send, and will now add some to this, before we go on a reconnoiter of the town.Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
    Dinner last night
    Large "normal" eucalypt

    Lovely sunny day in Santiago

    16 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We have had a beautiful rest day. Last night we met with our special friends from the Camino and we all had a drink at the Parador where Janette and Brigitte were staying. Quite a small crowd there, but just 5 of us went together for dinner. Judy and Dorothy were there for drinks, but they didn’t stay to have dinner as they had not long ago walked in and were tired, so we said farewell to them, but knew we were going to the Pilgrim Mass today at midday, so could see them then. So it was Janette, Brigitte, Jessica, and us for dinner, just perfect. Jessica had been recommended a place to eat, starting with P, and she actually found it and it was great...we straight away got a round table for 5 in a corner, and had many shared plates and Alberiño wine. And it was Jessica’s 53rd birthday, so we celebrated that as well. Again more farewells as Janette and Brigitte are leaving today to fly back to Canada. Very wrenching, after all our close times together.

    This morning we woke late, and had great hotel breakfast then went to the office where you can get your Compostela certificate. Morning is a good time to do this as it gets very crowded when pilgrims pour in after midday and go there straight away. After that we went and had coffee and then it was time to go to the cathedral to visit and get a good seat for the Mass, it gets very full and standing room only very early. It was lovely to sit there and feel the atmosphere and look at the great building. It was as always a moving Mass, and today they did swing the incense ball which is so dramatic....we weren’t expecting it as we knew it had happened twice before recently, so that was special. It doesn’t always happen, but it does seem more often than not.

    We saw Jessica at the Mass which was a bonus, so we went and had a little lunch with her. Didn’t see the Canadian sisters there, many,many people so not surprising, so glad we said our farewells last night. After lunch Amr and I had an attempt to get bus tickets to Salamanca but that was too complicated (this is for when we return from Finisterre) so then we went for a beautiful walk in the park just near our hotel. We are so lucky - it is a gorgeous sunny day! We had only seen Santiago in the rain last time, so this was much appreciated...it is a pretty, hilly city...very touristy, or totally centred around the pilgrim business, but still charming. And the food and wine is excellent! In the park we saw a couple of enormous gum trees - and these were normal spreading trees as well as large - all the ones we saw in plantations, and even the wild ones mixed with native trees, were very tall and skinny. So a good day, and tomorrow we start a 5 day new adventure to Finisterre.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Starting off to Finisterre

    17 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today was the start of a completely new adventure...sometimes we wondered if we were mad to keep walking on the extra 5 days to Finisterre....but it has been magic. Doing this is a good way to overcome the anticlimax after arriving in Santiago, plus we found we were ready to walk...it felt just right, although we will have to learn to stop some time soon!!

    But the best thing we discovered was that today was perhaps the most idyllic day of the whole Camino so far! First, we found that the path is very well marked...we were not sure that this would continue beyond Santiago to be so clear, but we had the new signposts with the kilometres to 3 decimal points again!! (They had petered out about 15 kms before arriving in Santiago). Every time there was a choice there was a reassuring arrow or sign. But the other thing was that this is just a beautiful part of Galicia - everywhere was like a picture postcard. Amr says it is the palm beach end - the houses are well kept and the towns prosperous looking. And we walked up and down hills, through forests, through villages, past farms till we got here - Negreira - after 20.83 kms. Also, we were surprised to find that there were quite a lot of people also walking this path. Not as many as on the Camino Francés, but enough to chat to now and then. And every now and then there were people going the other way - from Finisterre back to Santiago.

    It was cloudy when we left, and rain predicted by about 1 o’clock. So we mainly walked in cool and slightly misty air. At about 1.30 it did start to rain - at first we ignored it, but by the end we put on ponchos, and arrived at 2.30. The rain is light and misty, not soaking, so once again we were not wet...Easily found our hotel and are happily showered and done washing that probably wont dry! It will supposedly rain all night but will clear up by 5 am ready for us to walk again tomorrow!! And predictions for the rest of the week look pretty promising too. We arrive in Finisterre (Fisterra in Galician) on Sunday, so 4 more walks.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    Another idyllic walk in Galicia

    18 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We are not exactly sure where we are! But we have had another peaceful day walking through the countryside...quite long - longer than the predicted 18, we walked 24 kms - and we were instructed to walk till we got to a particular bar, then to call for a ride to our accommodation (like we did in Arzúa). Anyway, eventually we got to the bar Victoriano, had a beer and Amr charmed the woman there to make the call for us - no problem - and in 10 minutes a Mercedes pulled in and drove us ? 9 kms out into the country to this very charming casa rural. We have a lovely room (double bed, but one long pillow!) with a little enclosed and sunny balcony - where yesterday’s wet washing is drying - and a lovely outlook. And a very complicated shower, looked like dashboard of a jet!!

    Again we were lucky with weather - the rain at night had stopped by morning, and we had a cool walk, sunny with scudding clouds. And through more lovely forests, farms and villages. I think our current area is As Maronas, or Santa Mariña, but they are very small rural villages. Our bags again miraculously here, all is good. We think this beautiful walk to Finisterre is a carefully guarded secret - we knew about it, but had no idea it would be so lovely. And I guess that after walking the more than 700 kms from Pamplona to Santiago, our legs can manage to keep walking anywhere! But we are always happy to arrive at our destination each day I have to admit!

    I have a feeling this is not strong wifi, so if no photos appear that’s why!    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin

    An easy walk to Olveiroa

    19 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Only 14 kms today, and we are staying in a pension in a small village with the typical Galician stone houses, and the corn storage buildings - here also in stone. This is such an idyllic 5 day walk to Finisterre, and a perfect wind down after the hype of finishing in Santiago.

    We started walking leisurely at about 9.30, after being driven back to the Camino by our host. They were so warm and friendly, farewelled us with hugs and kisses, and it was a great dinner last night. Today has the same ambience, warm and welcoming, though this place is right on the Camino so more activity - locals in the bar etc! But again a beautiful stone building and peaceful and comfortable. No wonder I couldn’t find these places we are staying in on the map before we left home...they are much too small and insignificant for google maps!

    But there is a lot going on. We pass many many dairy farms, and many corn fields, and the other thing round here is timber. Some timber mills, and yesterday we heard chainsaws. And there are many plantations of eucalyptus and pine trees. Also we left under cloud cover, though forecasts were for no rain, and it was sort of mystical and misty in the distance when we first started off. But this cleared and it is now mostly blue and sunny. And we saw water in the distance, our host told us while driving that this was part of the water inlets that come in from the Atlantic, so we are getting there! In fact we are only 36 kms from Finisterre!! Tomorrow we walk about 20 kms to Cee, and on Sunday we have a shorter walk to Finisterre where we stay for 2 nights.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Rosie MarzoukThe Camino Revisited 2018Gezgin
    Last night's hotel - Santa Eulalia
    Mystical mistWater viewLooks like a Corot painting

    Now a few photos from today

    19 Ekim 2018, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Just back from the bar and a glass of Alberiño - so relaxed here, and they keep giving little tapas offerings with a drink! Hope I will be hungry for dinner, as the smells here are wonderful! A Canadian couple (more Canadians!) may join us for dinner tonight. We met them on the first day of this section, and they are staying just up the road...they were at our place last night so we have become quite friendly.Okumaya devam et

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