• Big wave surf capital

    March 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a late start departing Lisbon this morning, trying to avoid peak hour traffic, and began our journey north visiting the Monastery of Batalha, before continuing on to Nazare.

    Nazare was a quiet fishing village until the world discovered the giant waves generated by a 5km deep undersea canyon just off the coast, and tried to surf them. The world record for big wave surfing was achieved here in 2022 at 86 feet (26.2 metres). No such swell today, just the usual 2-3 metres... so it's not for the faint hearted!

    We had seafood lunch overlooking the cliffs at Nazare before continuing on to Obidos, a walled Roman city and the best example a medieval town in Portugal. The buildings are predominantly painted blue and yellow, and their local speciality is Ginga de Obidos, cherry liquor served in a tiny chocolate cup!

    Our stop for the night is the town of Fatima, one of the largest pilgrimage centres in the world. The town of 13,000 residents receives 8 million visitors a year, with mass performed regularly in the modern church which seats 8,600 and has an area of 40,000 square metres (the 5th largest Catholic Church in the world).
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  • Sintra and the Cascais coast

    March 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had a day trip from Lisbon today, west to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais.

    Sintra is home to Pena Palace, the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family from 1842 until the revolution of 1910 overthrew the monarchy.

    Cabo da Roca is the westernmost point of mainland Europe.

    Cascais is a former fishing village which has transformed into a cosmopolitan resort city, and a favourite day trip location for Lisbon residents.

    For dinner Rui booked us front row seats at a Fado Restaurant. Fado is a traditional Portuguese music style, characterized by "mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fate and melancholy". It is performed by a singer, accompanied by a classical guitar and a Portuguese guitar (12 string, shaped like a mandolin)
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  • It's all about the tarts

    March 25, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Day 1 of our Portugal tour, and we met our driver/guide, Rui, for a 9am departure.

    We started the day heading inland along the River Tagus to the site of the 1998 World Expo, next to the Vasco Da Gama Bridge - the second longest bridge in Europe at 12.3km (the longest is the Crimean Bridge in Ukraine).

    Bek and Jake visited the Lisbon Aquarium, while Oliver and I went caching in the area.

    We then drove back into the centre of town for a lookout view over Lisbon, toward Belem, our next destination.

    The Belem District is dedicated to the Portuguese explorers of the 15th and 16th centuries, with the Monument of the Discoveries featuring statues of 33 of their sailors and explorers.

    The Tower of Belem, built in 1514 and one of the few structures unaffected by the 1755 earthquake, is a defensive fortress and ceremonial gateway to the city.

    Belem is also the home of the Portuguese custard tart (Pastel de Nata, originally known as Pastel de Belem). The original bakery has been baking them since 1837 and had quite a queue to purchase some. Fortunately Rui has a tour guide "skip the line pass" and walked straight into the shop to purchase ours 😁

    Lunch was at a local restaurant - grilled octopus, and seafood skewers.

    We then crossed the Tagus River on the 25 April Bridge - if you think it looks familiar, it is based in part on two San Francisco bridges. It's paint is the same colour as the Golden Gate Bridge (International Orange), and the design is similar to the Oakland Bay Bridge, built by the same company.

    On the other side is the Christ the King Monument (completed 1959), inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue of Rio de Janeiro after the Cardinal of Lisbon visited that monument in 1934.
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  • A night at the opera

    March 24, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today we walked the streets of Lisbon, finding some caches, climbing hills, and negotiating the slippery slopes of the funicular paths (it drizzled for a while this morning).

    We had no particular plan, but did stop for morning tea tarts, lunch, afternoon tea donuts... then squeezed dinner in before a visit to the opera... and finished with late night coffee and cakes. Thankfully Lisbon has plenty of hills to walk off all the food!

    The buskers in the street outside our hotel are still going strong at 11.30pm to lullaby us off to sleep...
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  • North to Lisbon

    March 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We caught a taxi to the airport this morning for our 1.5 hour flight to Lisbon.

    We caught the underground from the airport to our hotel, changing lines mid journey... and a surprisingly good price for an airport train - $2.66 each.

    Our hotel is in a mostly pedestrian area in the centre of town, with trams trundling along many streets and a buzzing outdoor dining and cafe scene.

    We bought a local SIM card and had a walk around the local area, picking up a few caches on the way.

    Bek and Jake arrived late afternoon and we found an outdoor dining area near one of the main squares for dinner.
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  • Marrakech, Take 3...

    March 22, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We had a mid-morning departure from Essaouira for our journey back to Marrakech, arriving at our hotel just after 1.30pm.

    It's the third time we've been to Marrakech this trip, so we knew exactly where to go... or so we thought! We headed by foot to the main square, Jamaa El Fna, which was quiet, before the night time traders set up. We attempted to find the same shop we purchased items from last week, but ended up walking the laneways in vain.

    Fortunately there are dozens of shops selling similar items, so we just had to find what we were after, and do the haggling dance from scratch. As the shop was tiny, I sat outside while Oliver negotiated the price... and despite starting one hundred dirham apart, she got it for her requested price 😁

    Another couple of hours by the pool, dinner at the hotel, and we're ready for a flight to Portugal tomorrow to meet up with Bek and Jake.
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  • Was Mogador, now Essaouira

    March 21, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We began the day with a local guide and a walking tour of the medina. It has a totally different feel to the medinas in larger cities, far less hustle and bustle, a greater percentage of tourists, and a relaxed holiday vibe.

    The Portuguese seized Essaouira (then known as Mogador) in 1510 and built a fortress. They only lasted 4 years before it was recaptured by the local resistance.

    During the 16th century, powers including Spain, England, the Netherlands and France tried in vain to conquer the city, but it remained a haven for the export of sugar and molasses, and as an anchorage for pirates.

    The present city of Essaouira was built during the mid-eighteenth century by the Moroccan King, in his attempt to open Morocco up to world trade.

    We wandered the medina again in the afternoon, stopping for fresh fish lunch, and a haircut for me at the local barber.
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  • Road to Essaouira

    March 20, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We hit the road at 9am for our journey west to Essaouira, a port and resort city on the Atlantic coast. For many years the city was the main port of Morocco, due to it's straight line access to Marrakech.

    On the way we passed the "famous" Moroccan tree climbing goats - they've becomes an Instagram favourite, but the major tour companies refuse to stop at them because of the cruelty issues (the goats don't climb the trees, but are placed up by farmers, balancing on small platforms with no access to water or shade)

    We were dropped at the city gates of Essaouira to walk to our hotel, as there is no vehicle access inside the medina.

    We went for an afternoon walk along the foreshore, from the bustling fishing port in the north, to the luxury resort style hotels as we headed south. The tourist trade now dominates the beach, with numerous offers for us to ride horses, camels or quad bikes on the beach.
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  • Time travelling around Marrakech

    March 19, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We had some confusion with the time this morning - the data package on our phone ran out last night, so the time was different to the tablet and must have been wrong... so we thought!

    Turns out Morocco is on permanent daylight savings time, except for Ramadan (which starts Thursday), so the clocks went back an hour this morning. Just that no-one told us... and the tablet was still set to a German time zone 🙄. So, at a cafe for morning tea we were trying to look at people's watches to see what time it really was 🤣. On the upside, we got an extra hour today, and I got to ask all day "old time or new time?"

    We did plenty of walking today to clean up the caches north of the city (16,000 steps, 10.2 km according to the tracker).

    We saw old theatres, new theatres, museums and gardens, including the Yves Saint Laurent Museum and Majorelle Gardens, later owned and restored by Yves Saint Laurent and where his ashes are scattered.

    We arrived back at our hotel around 2pm (new time 😁) for another sit by the pool, then wandered out to a local cafe where we had one of the traditional Moroccan soups for tea.
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  • Badia Palace and Medina walking tour

    March 18, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We met our city guide again this morning for a walking tour of the Medina, and a visit to Badia Palace.

    We did the palace first to beat the crowds - a good move, as the queue to buy tickets when we came out was lengthy!

    Completed in 1900, Bahia Palace isn't a royal palace, but was built by Ahmed bin Musa, the Grand Vizier of Morocco - effectively the head public servant, but with direct access and influence over the Sultan, so he was the defacto ruler of the kingdom. Upon the sultan's death Ahmed enthroned the Sultan's third son as the new Sultan, a boy of 14, effectively giving Ahmed complete rule of the country. He built the palace to house his four wives and numerous concubines, and named it after his favourite concubine!

    We then did a walking tour of the Medina for 3 hours, exploring many, many streets we missed the first 3 days we were here, including the metal workers street, leather worker's street and spice market.

    We had lunch at a cafe just off the main square, did a bit more shopping, and returned to our hotel for a few hours by the pool (bit too cold to swim though)
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  • Ouzoud Falls and Marrakech Foodie Tour

    March 17, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Late start today with an 11am departure from the hotel, so plenty of time for breakfast and a walk before we were picked up.

    We stopped at Ouzoud Falls for a walk around the top and bottom of the falls. It's a popular day trip from Marrakech, so was busy with locals and tourists.

    The drive to Marrakech was a couple of hours, so we arrived in time to settle into our hotel, then head straight into the city centre for a foodie tour.

    We started in Jemaa el Fna Square with a local guide, sampling a vast array of street food and local specialties, including juices, snails, soups and sweets, and finishing with a tangia - an urn shaped cooking pot with slow cooked beef and preserved lemon. We got back to the hotel at 10pm, not sure if we'll ever need to eat again!
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  • How's the serenity...

    March 16, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Longest drive of the trip today, 6.5 hours from Fes to Bin El Ouidane, in the Atlas Mountains.

    Our first stop was Ifrane, the Switzerland of Morocco. The town is known for its alpine-style architecture and nearby ski slopes and forests. It's a popular holiday destination for Moroccans looking to escape the city heat. In the centre of town, a stone statue of a lion represents the last known Atlas Lion shot in the wild in this area in 1942.

    Lunch was a traditional meal in a Berber family home, a meat and vegetable tagine... although I'm not sure the fries on top are traditional?? But it was all delicious.

    We arrived at our accommodation near Bin El Ouidane at 5.30pm, a beautiful room overlooking the Ait Ouarda Dam, and a relaxing evening watching the sun set from our deck.
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  • Fes Fun

    March 15, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We did a walking tour of the Fes medina today, the largest in Morocco, and the world's largest car free urban zone.

    There are 300,000 people living in the medina, in 250 quarters - each quarter is self contained and has a mosque, Koran school, Hammam, fountain and community bakery.

    The medina is made up of 9,600 alleys - no wonder they tell tourists to stay still if they get separated from their group and someone will come back to find you - don't try and find your own way out!
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  • Meknes Medina

    March 14, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We were met by the local guide for a 9am tour of Meknes. We drove to a lookout point over the medina, visited the Jewish cemetery, and the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, the longest reigning Moroccan sultan (55 years), who allegedly had a harem of over 500 women and fathered more than 800 children, making him one of the most prodigious fathers in recorded history.

    We then had a walking tour of the medina, which is undergoing much restoration work.

    We drove to Fes in the afternoon, getting lunch locally near our hotel.

    For dinner we had a local speciality, Pastilla - it's a Moroccan chicken pie, containing shredded chicken, saffron, egg and onion, with a crunchy topping of fried almonds sweetened with orange flower water, enclosed in a crispy pastry shell and garnished with icing sugar and cinnamon.
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  • Roman ruins of Volubilis

    March 13, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We travelled from Chefchaouen to Meknes, a distance of 194km. The journey took over 3.5 hours, as we could only travel at 60kph for most of the way due to the number of local buses, pedestrians, donkeys, sheep and tractors sharing the road.

    We broke the journey with a visit to the local market at Zaggota. It is a weekly market, so people come from miles around to do their weekly shop, many by shared taxi with their roofs piled high with produce, or by donkey cart if they live closer.

    We arrived at Volubilis early afternoon for a guided tour. Volubis is a partly excavated Roman city near the city of Meknes, founded in the 3rd century BC and abandoned in the 11th century AD. It remained largely intact until an earthquake in 1755. It was subsequently looted by Moroccan rulers seeking stone for building Meknes, until excavation and restoration during the time of French rule, 1912-1955.

    We had lunch in the nearby town of Moulay Idress Zerhoun, before travelling onto Meknes for the night.
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  • Chefchaouen Hammam

    March 12, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We have a full day in Chefchaouen, so a leisurely breakfast and a walk up to the cemetery was the only thing on the agenda for the morning.

    We then ventured into the medina for lunch, before our 3pm massage and hammam, which means “the spreader of warmth” in Arabic. It is essentially getting scrubbed down and washed in a sauna. They believe that purifying the body goes hand-in-hand with purifying the soul, so after being washed while lying on a marble slab, you get rubbed down/exfoliated with a kessa glove (made of goat hair... think 120 grit sandpaper), then an all over body rub of black clay. We were left to marinate for 15 minutes before a final wash down.

    We also had a massage from head to toe (literally), front, back and sides - she was very thorough, massaging places we didn't know needed massaging!

    Dinner was at the same restaurant as last night, overlooking the hum of the medina as the sun set.
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  • Into the Blue

    March 11, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We left Tangier at 9am, early enough to beat any traffic (highly unlikely on a Saturday... even on a weekday nothing gets going until 11 am)

    We stopped for morning coffee with plenty of other travellers at a cafe overlooking a dam. Tourism is slowly recovering here - there only are a handful of large buses getting around, but quite a few small vans like ours.

    We travelled through the lush green crops of the Rif Mountains and arrived in Chefchaouen, the blue city, just before lunch.

    Chefchaouen is traditionally an agricultural centre, also known for leather and textile handicrafts, but recently tourism has been the main income earner due to their distinctive blue buildings.

    There are several theories as to why the walls were painted blue - one is that the blue keeps mosquitos away, or that blue symbolizes the sky and heaven and serves as a reminder to lead a spiritual life, or simply they were painted blue in the 1970s to attract tourists!

    We met our local guide for a walk around the medina and Kasbah, including a stop for lunch of goat cheese, bread, pastries and mint tea, then walked to our hotel, just outside the medina.

    After dinner in a rooftop cafe (for the record, beef tagine with prunes - and absolutely delicious), we walked up the hill behind our hotel to watch sunset over the city from the Spanish Mosque, a disused mosque built by the Spanish in 1920.
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  • A little lighthouse keeping*

    March 10, 2023 in Morocco

    Longer drive today, about 3 hours to Tangier, located at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar, just 14km from Spain.

    Through it's history it has been under Spanish control, Portugese control and even English control - in 1662 it was transferred to the English crown as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, wife of Charles II.

    In the 1940s and 50s, as an international zone managed by colonial powers, it became a haven for artists, eccentric millionaires, secret agents and writers. It is now a modern, attractive city, with a fascinating mix of old and new - an ancient medina fringed by a modem harbour and corniche.

    We ventured a few kilometres out of town to Cape Spartel, the most north western point of mainland Africa, and home to a lighthouse dating from 1864.

    Nearby is the Cave of Hercules - mythology cites that Tangier was founded by Hercules and it was in these caves that he rested after completing the 12 labours set to him as penance for his sins.

    The cave has two openings, one to sea and one to land. The sea opening, known as "The Map of Africa" is believed created by the Phoenicians in the shape of Africa when looked at from the sea.
    The caves were was used as a brothel in the 1920's, and in 1995, British rock group Def Leppard played a concert in the cave.

    *Naming credit to The Goodies 😁
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  • Road to Rabat

    March 9, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We woke up to a cool, overcast day, and met our driver Souliman for a 9am departure to Rabat, a distance of only 90km.

    We arrived mid morning to a city in complete contrast to Casablanca. Rabat is the capital of Morocco, neatly ordered, and known for it's mix of Islamic and French colonial architecture.

    The skyline of the city is currently being transformed by the contruction of Mohammed VI Tower, a hotel and residential building. Started in July 2017, and due for completion this year, it will be the second tallest tower in Africa and is designed to be visible from a distance of 50km.

    We met a local guide for a walk through the grounds of the Al Hassan Mosque, Hassan Tower, and Mausoleum of Mohammed V, and our first chance to introduce both driver and guide to geocaching, as there was a nicely hidden cache on the edge of the carpark 😁

    We then visited the Kasbah, the original walled part of the city, and partook in mint tea and biscuits, before travelling to the Royal Palace, where the king resides when in Rabat. It's a sprawling 43 hectare site, where his 2000 staff all live on-site. Jobs at the Royal Palace are much sought after and often pass down through family generations.

    After lunch we walked through the medina, across the road from our hotel, then back there again for tea after a walk around the local area.
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  • Casablanca rest day

    March 8, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Quiet day today after yesterday's unwanted excitement. All we had to do was move hotels in preparation for the start of our tour tomorrow, so we had a sleep in, lunch locally, then caught a taxi to our new hotel near the train station.

    We purchased a new SIM card for Oliver's phone, had a relaxing mint tea at a cafe and a walk around the station precinct, before a shawarmer for dinner.
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  • Casablah...

    March 7, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Given the limited tourism sites in Casablanca, we set our sights today on the coast and promenade.

    The most prominent feature of the city is the Hassan II Mosque, built in 1993. It is the largest functioning mosque in Africa and is the 7th largest in the world. It has a capacity of 105,000 worshippers, 25,000 inside and 80,000 outside. It's minaret is the world's second tallest at 210 metres.

    We then walked around the corniche to the second most famous attraction, Rick's Cafe, inspired by the 1942 film, but only built in 2004 by a former American diplomat to Morocco. Unfortunately for us, we couldn't go in because they don't allow patrons wearing shorts!

    We had lunch at a restaurant housed in a former fort on the foreshore, before starting to head back to our hotel. Unfortunately on the way, while checking Google Maps, my phone was stolen by a bloke on a motorcycle who came up from behind and was gone in a flash. To cut a long story short, 3 police stations, 2 rides in a police car and many hours later, we still didn't have the phone. We're both fine, just annoyed and inconvenienced...
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  • Marrakech Express

    March 6, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We caught the train today from Marrakech to Casablanca, a comfortable 2.5 hour journey.

    The landscape started dry and brown, but the further north we went, the more lush and green it became.

    Casablanca is the financial capital of Morocco, a bustling highrise city, and a far cry from Marrakech. Tourist attractions are limited in the centre of town, so we wandered the streets near our hotel.

    First mission was lunch at a local shawarma shop (yiros/doner in a pocket bread) - this one was in the backstreets, has one item on the menu, and had a queue of locals hanging out the door (always a good sign). They make the bread in real time at the back of the shop, fill the warm bread with freshly carved meat and top it with salads. Delicious!

    We visited the supermarket on the meandering walk back to the hotel, and had dinner at a pasta restaurant nearby.
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  • Menara Gardens and medina shops

    March 5, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Menara gardens are located at the west of Marrakech, and a popular weekend destination for families. They were built around 1130 by the Almohad ruler Abd al-Mu'min.

    They contain a pavilion, built in the 16th century and renovated in 1869 by the Sultan, who used to stay here in summertime.

    The pavilion and artificial lake are surrounded by orchards and olive groves. The intention of the lake was to irrigate the surrounding gardens using an old hydraulic system which conveys water from the mountains 30 km away.

    We walked both ways, with a stop on the way back for lunch, then explored the medina for a while, before a few hours relaxing on the rooftop terrace of our riad.

    We ventured out for dinner, planning to eat local, but needed to find an ATM, so ended up in the main square. The first ATM we tried was out of cash, the second malfunctioned and ate the person in front's card, the third was only in French, but we were successful with the fourth! 😮‍💨

    Dinner was a vegetarian tagine again, before enduring shoulder to shoulder crowds to get back to our riad.
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  • Rock the Kasbah

    March 4, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today's destination was the Kasbah of Marrakesh, a large walled district in the southern part of the city, which historically served as the citadel and royal palace of the city.

    We began with a visit to the adjoining Jewish quarter, but were unable to visit the Jewish cemetery as it was closed for their sabbath.

    The surrounding streets were residential with few people around, but we did stumble upon a community bakery where the locals bring their prepared loaves to bake. The bakers invited us in and gave us a sample straight from the oven.

    Lunch was at a local eatery near Place de Ferblantiers, a palm fringed square with many tin and glass artisans, and heaps of tourists.

    We bypassed the Bahia Palace as we'll be going there as part of our tour, but did visit the Saadien's Tombs, a complex of simple mausoleums and tombs, containing the remains of royalty dating back to the 1550s.

    After a snack at a rooftop cafe, we walked back to our accommodation via the now busy laneways of the medina.

    Dinner was a couscous tagine each, at a local Berber street cafe.
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  • Marrakech meandering

    March 3, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    From our riad in the centre of town, we decided to walk the north of the city today. We headed through the maze of alleys to the main square, Jamaa el Fna, firstly in search of an ATM. It was a popular choice, as the queue at the main bank was lengthy - fortunately Mr Google told me there was another one in the next street, so we went there and were cashed up quickly.

    First stop was the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque, whose minaret is the most visible landmark of the city.

    We visited Cyber Park, a tranquil garden with an odd technology theme, before continuing into the suburbs. The streets were just as busy, but this was full of locals, not tourists. We had lunch at a small cafe and wandered the souks, who sell a large array of traditional textiles, pottery and jewelry, as well as the usual tourist trinkets.

    We came back to the city via a number of caches (they're mostly in market stalls and shops so they don't go missing, so you have to ask for them... but it certainly breaks the ice with the shopkeeper 😁).

    Dinner was a Dabachi Sandwich, a street food mixture of meats, cheese, egg and spices, barbequed together and served in a pocket bread.

    We then wandered Jamaa el Fna Square, which certainly comes alive after dark with endless food and drink choices, stalls selling everything from clothes to carpets, souvenir sellers, snake charmers and sideshow games.
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  • Frankfurt to Marrakech

    March 2, 2023 in Morocco

    After catching the underground to the airport, we flew out of Frankfurt at 11am for a 3.5 hour flight to Marrakech.

    Our first sight of Morocco was a patchwork of brown and green fields from the plane window, with snow covered mountains in the distance - not quite what we were expecting!

    After finding an ATM, and buying a local SIM card, the next challenge was getting a taxi. We'd read about the problems at the airport with taxi drivers charging inflated prices, so much so that the government has mandated the price to the city at 70 dirham (about $10)... and even put a sign up to that effect. Seems word hasn't got to the drivers yet, as prices on offer ranged up to 350 dirham! When we said we'd pay the advertised price, the taxi organiser found us a driver, but he took another fare with us... so at least he got 140 for that trip 🙂

    Our accommodation is a traditional riad (courtyard house/hotel), very close to the main square, so our taxi dropped us on the outskirts of the city centre, and we walked the rest of the way through the busy lanes.

    We went for a late afternoon walk and took an impromptu tour through the tannery. It was quite a sight and smell - and I can safely say it's not high on my list to do again 🙄

    Dinner was at a local restaurant as the call to prayer was sounding, before a quiet night in the courtyard of our riad, avoiding the occasional shower of rain.
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