• North to Namibia

    5 juni, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a full day at sea, so it was shipboard activities for us. Between us, we partook in a guest lecture about Albert Einstein's personal life, a Pilates class, a trivia session, and a bracelet making crafternoon. No prizes for guessing which of us did each activity!Meer informatie

  • Sailing out of Cape Town

    4 juni, Zuid-Afrika ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We spent a lot of today waiting ... our cruise departs at 5pm tonight, but we were given the first transfer window from the hotel, at 10.30am. After hotel checkout at 10am, we waited only a short while in reception, and arrived at the cruise terminal well before 11.00am. South African Immigration changed the time of their availability, so we wandered the V&A Waterfront until check-in opened at midday.

    After formalities, we boarded the Regent Seven Seas Voyager, our home for the next 23 days. The ship is close to capacity with 615 passengers, including 195 Australians who boarded today.

    First activity was buffet lunch, in one of the 6 restaurants on board. In the afternoon we walked the decks to familiarise ourselves, then settled into our suite late afternoon.

    Shortly after 5pm we departed Cape Town, heading north towards Namibia.

    After dinner we attended a caberet variety show in the main lounge, a taster of the entertainment on offer during the cruise.
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  • Good Hope and Boulders

    3 juni, Zuid-Afrika ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We had a full day tour of the Cape Peninsula today, beginning with a visit to the colourful Bo-Kaap neighbourhood across the road from our hotel. It is the oldest surviving neighbourhood in Cape Town, dating from the 1760s when Malay workers (slaves) were bought in by the Dutch colonisers.

    Travelling via Chapmans Peak Drive, a coastal road carved out of the mountain in the 1920s, we stopped at Houts Bay for an optional boat ride to see seals on a nearby island. Given the rain and rough seas, we chose the walk around the markets and dock area instead.

    We continued south to Cape Point Nature Reserve, stopping for lunch before walking up to the old lighthouse. Built in 1860, it was decommssioned 40 years and dozens of shipwrecks too late, after its high altitude meant the lighthouse was in cloud many days of the year, and couldn't be seen when the sailors needed it most! A new lighthouse was built at a much lower altitude.

    The drive continued via the Cape of Good Hope, the most South Westerly point of Africa, to Simon's Town and Boulders Beach.

    The beach is a popular tourist spot because of a colony of endangered African penguins (previously known as Jackass penguins) that settled there in 1982. It is in a residential area, and a series of boardwalks allows the birds to be observed at close range as they wander freely. From just two breeding pairs in 1982, the penguin colony has grown to about 3000 birds in recent years.
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  • Cape Town walking

    2 juni, Zuid-Afrika ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We arrived in Cape Town late last night and received notice that our scheduled tour to Robben Island today had been cancelled because of the weather, so a new plan was required.

    We investigated a late notice walking tour as we were recommended not to walk the streets for safety reasons. As most of the impromptu walking tours leave from Market Square, we made our way towards there.

    As we were walking we noticed security guards on most street corners, all in high vis uniform with body worn cameras, and armed with batons. We later found out that they are called Public Safety Officers, and 320 of them patrol the streets 24/7 to reduce crime in the CBD. Their presence was reassuring, and the number of other tourists and walking groups gave us the confidence to continue alone.

    We began our walk through Company's Garden, which was established in 1652 by the Dutch East India Company to feed the growing settlement as well as provide fresh produce to resupply their passing ships.

    We also found the only piece of the Berlin Wall in Africa... slightly out of place in a city mall!

    Our final destination was the Victoria and Albert Waterfront precinct, one of the city's major tourism areas with a plethora of shops, restaurants and markets. After lunch and a thorough discovery of the area, we caught an Uber back to our hotel late afternoon, having walked 9.6km for the day.
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  • Orevwar depi Moris*

    1 juni, Mauritius ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Our final day on Mauritius, and we have a 1 hour drive to the airport and 6 hours to do it... so plenty of time for detours.

    First stop was Grand River South East Waterfall, a few minutes out of Trou d'Eau Douce. Finding the path to the waterfall was the biggest challenge as it wasn't signposted from the road, so we took a track through the sugar cane plantation, then followed the noise down to the waterfall.

    The east coast doesn't have the wide sandy beaches of the north and west, so it's not as touristy... which means very few resorts, but fabulous sea views from the road most of the way. There's also a large number of Hindu temples - Mauritius is the only African nation with Hinduism as the dominant religion.

    Amongst our stops was a monument to the first landing of the Dutch in 1598, who named it after Prince Maurice Van Nassau, head of the Dutch Republic. They introduced sugar cane, rice and tobacco, and also bought the first slaves. They abandoned Mauritius in 1710. In 1715, the French arrived, and ruled until they were defeated by the British in 1815. Independence was gained in 1968.

    The largest town in the south is Mahebourg, a few minutes from the airport. The Sunday waterfront market was in full swing when we arrived, as was a noisy celebration of Liverpool's recent Premier League victory by the Liverpool Mauritius Fan Club. Just off the coast is the tiny island of Mouchoir Rouge, named after the "red handkerchief" that was waved as a signal to the boatman for those who wanted to go to or return from the island, not because of the red roofed house.

    Our final stop before boarding our flight to Cape Town was the Pyramids of Plaine Magnien. Initially believed to be built by an ancient civilization, recent accounts have confirmed they were built by sugar cane workers who decided to neatly pile the volcanic rocks they cleared when planting the sugar cane. That's not as exciting 😐

    * Farewell from Mauritius, in Mauritian Creole - also known as "Morisyen," it's a French-based language spoken in Mauritius. Primarily a spoken language, it's the most commonly used language on the island and is spoken by almost everyone.
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  • Heading down the east coast

    31 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    We had an early breakfast and were on the road by 9am. As it's Saturday the roads aren't quite so busy, so we made good progress.

    We visited 2 aviation monuments today, the first to commemorate the first flight from Reunion to Mauritius in 1933, which landed near the beach at Mon Choisy. The second monument was for the crash of South African Airlines Flight 295, which suffered an onboard fire and crashed into the sea off the east coast in 1987.

    We took the inland route today and stopped at the former railway station at Mapou (with plans for a railway museum on the site). Mauritius had a railway network with 250km of track, from the 1860s until 1964, initially built to support the sugar industry. After almost 50 years absence, in an attempt to ease traffic congestion, rail returned to the island in 2020 with a light rail system, but with only 25km of track and 19 stations, from Port Louis to Curepipe.

    We drove through a number of villages, and visited a former sugar mill at Belle Mare, which is in remarkably good condition considering it closed in 1875. We reached our east coast accommodation at Trou d'Eau Douce just after lunchtime. Time to walk to the local supermarket for supplies and enjoy a leisurely afternoon on the rooftop deck.
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  • Northern beaches

    30 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    We're staying in Grand Baie for another night, so today was a leisurely tour of the beaches on the north coast.

    The north coast road hugs the coast and looks on the map like it will have fabulous ocean views all the way. This turned out not to be the case, with private residences and resorts monopolising the sea views, and the general public getting just an occasional glimpse. There are a number of public beaches, but finding the access point can be rather challenging!

    But when you do get there, the views are idyllic.

    We began the day at possibly the smallest beach on the island, Pereybere Beach.

    The search for a cache took us next to Bain Boeuf, with access to the beach down a narrow walkway, opening up to a beautiful bay. I'm not sure how many public visitors this one gets, as there is no parking in the vicinity... but where there's a cache, there's a way 😁

    Our journey continued to Cap Malheureux (Unlucky Cape) - named as a reminder of the British invaders defeat of the French occupation at this point in 1810. The distinctive red roof of the Notre Dame Auxilliatrice church dominates the bay.

    At Anse La Raie Beach we walked out to one of the islands at low tide to grab a cache, then continued to Calodyne Beach, a popular local picnic spot.

    On the way back to Grand Baie we stopped for a walk in the Daruty Forest, then had a late lunch at the most popular Greek restaurant in town, "The Trojan Horse (The Greeks are Inside)".
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  • From Dodo Island to Port Louis

    29 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    We toured the backstreets of Flic en Flac picking up a few caches, including one at the Manguiers Roundabout (colloquially known as Dodo Island) - it's a public art installation of life-size dodo statues, inaugurated in 2013 to raise awareness about environmental protection, particularly the dodo's story. It's not mentioned in any tourist guides, but there is a cache there!

    We spent most of the day in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius. It's a nightmare to drive in the city centre, with heavy traffic, narrow roads and hoards of pedestrians and scooters going in all directions, so we parked the car at the Citadel Fort, above the city centre, and walked the city for a few hours.

    Citadel Fort, also known as Fort Adelaide, was built from 1830 to 1840. It symbolises the start of Indian immigration and the end of slavery and was constructed amid tensions from the French Revolution of 1830 and the recent British takeover of Mauritius. The British built the fort to guard against potential French attacks and local revolts, but it was never used for that reason. The Fort is still intact and allows a 360-degree view of Port Louis. From the fort you can view the Champ de Mars Racecourse, the oldest racecourse in the Southern Hemisphere and the second-oldest in the world (founded in 1812,) and where Mauritius declared its independence in 1968.

    Our accommodation for the night is at Grand Baie, 15km north of Port Louis along the M2 - one of three motorways on the island where the speed limit is 110km/h. Unfortunately the good progress is disrupted by a series of roundabouts, mostly less than 1 kilometre apart! (the first 6 were 600m apart, the longest uninterrupted stretch was 4km)
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  • The long way to Flic en Flac

    28 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    We only had 25km to travel today if we went the direct route up the coast, so we travelled the inland scenic route, first stop Black River Gorges National Park, the largest national park in Mauritius. The park was busy with tourists and school groups, but the drizzly weather dictated that it wasn't the day for a long walk today, so we satisfied ourselves with one cache and a short hike along the muddy Black River Peak Trail.

    Next detour was to Grand Bassin, a crater lake in the mountains, and a major Hindu pilgrimage site. There is no township or houses, just a large collection of temples spread over many hectares, including a 33m statue of Shiva, the tallest statue in Mauritius.

    The surprise of the day was the city of Curepipe, located on the central plateau, 560m above sea level. It has a population of 75,000 and because of it's altitude is known for its cooler and rainier climate, which we certainly experienced today. We visited the Botanic Gardens and the Trou aux Cerfs volcanic crater, with heavy traffic throughout.

    Final destination for the day was Flic en Flac, a beach tourism hotspot and home to many luxury hotels and resorts. It is the longest beach in Mauritius and has a line of food trucks along the beach front. Many are permanent and have built quite a reputation, so we weren't surprised when there was a line-up when we purchased our octopus roti for dinner 😋
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  • 7 Coloured Earth

    27 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    As we arrived late last night, we had no supplies for breakfast, so we walked into town and had an omelette and coffee at a local bakery/cafe.

    After a quick supermarket visit, we headed off for the day towards the Chamarel 7 Coloured Earth Geopark. It is a relatively small area of sand dunes comprising sand of seven distinct colours and has become one of Mauritius' main tourist attractions since the 1960s.

    In the same park is Chamarel Waterfall, the tallest single drop waterfall in Mauritius.

    Heading towards the south coast, we stopped at Maconde Viewpoint, a small outcrop with views over the Indian Ocean. It is believed that the name Maconde originates from the slavery period, where runaway slaves from the Makonde tribe of Mozambique came to seek refuge. 

    Our final stop was Le Morne, one of the most popular beaches in Mauritius, but also home to the Le Morne Brabant, a 550m monolith located at the southwestern corner of the island. It is seen as a symbol of the resistance to slavery, as it was used as a refuge by slaves after escaping their masters. Legend has it that when slavery was abolished, the slaves falsely belived the approaching police (who were going to inform them that they were free men), were going to recapture them, and jumped to their deaths rather than be recaptured. At the base of the Le Morne Brabant is the International Slave Route Monument.

    The coast off Le Morne Brabant is often cited as the location of an underwater waterfall, which you can't see from the land... but it may be visible from one of the seaplane tours offered nearby.
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  • Mauritius by night

    26 mei, Mauritius ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    The day began yesterday with a flight to Dubai, a few hours in transit, then a 6 hour flight on an A380 to Mauritius.

    It's one of the few airports (perhaps the only one?) where the country is listed as the destination on the departure boards, not the city or airport name - the international airport, Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam International Airport, is 50km from the capital and is usually referred to as Mauritius International Airport.

    We arrived at 5pm, picked up our hire car and drove in the drizzly rain to our accommodation on the west coast. The drive took us about 90 minutes as the roads were poorly lit with large drop-offs, and the many street dogs had no road sense!

    We had some difficulties finding the apartment, as Google Maps took us to the wrong area. Fortunately some friendly locals were setting up for a party in the front yard and were happy to help us get back on track.
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  • View of the clouds

    10 juni 2024, Oostenrijk ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Our plan for the final day in Salzburg is riding the cable car to the top of Untersberg. If only the weather was in on the plan!

    We caught the local bus to the base station, arriving just before 10am . The cable car ascends 1,320m in 8 minutes, and on a clear day, the top has 360 degree views for many kilometres. Low cloud today meant we had zero view ☹️

    We had a coffee, then caught the next ride down, and back on the local bus, getting off near the Old Town. In drizzly rain, we discovered some streets and squares we hadn't seen yesterday, has some pretzels for lunch, then made our way to the train station.

    We booked the fast, comfortable train to Munich, but it turned out to be neither. It was so crowded there were people standing for the entire 2.5 hour journey. Oliver got a seat and I went for a walk to see if other carriages were any better. They were all the same, so I sat in the corridor between carriages for most of the trip, with 2 other people.

    Our hotel in Munich is near the train station, so we dropped our bags and went for a walk. Dinner was traditional German fare at the Lowenbrau Brewery Beer Garden.

    We're flying home tomorrow, with a short transfer in Singapore, then overnight in Melbourne before a domestic flight home on Thursday.
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  • Mozart's Houses... and a fortress

    9 juni 2024, Oostenrijk ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We were up and about early today, starting our walk where we left off yesterday, in Mirabell Gardens. First stop out the other end of the park was the first Mozart house of the day, the one where he lived as a child. After a short tour of the house, we had strudel and coffee in the outdoor cafe next door and watched the world go by.

    Crossing the fast flowing Salzach River via one of the many pedestrian bridges, we made our way into the picturesque streets of the old town. As it was Sunday, most of the shops were closed, but the cobbled streets were busy with tourists and locals alike.

    Our second Mozart house was the one where he was born, and another self guided tour.

    Lunch was at a hole in the wall Balkan Grill - we were reading about the cult status of the grill, hidden away in a back alley, and noticed a queue had already started forming, so of course we joined it!

    After lunch we caught the funicular up the hill to Hohensalzburg Fortress, the 11th century fortress overlooking the city. At 250m long and 150m wide it's one of the largest and best preserved medieval castles in Europe.

    We meandered back the our hotel via the riverfront path, and had tea at the same restaurant as last night. As we were eating, the rain came down, luckily for the first time of the day!
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  • Transit to Austria

    8 juni 2024, Oostenrijk ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today was mostly a day of travel, departing Bucharest around midday for Munich.

    After a long wait for our luggage we caught the train into the city centre (45 minutes), and transferred to our train to Salzburg with minutes to spare.

    We arrived in Salzburg at 5pm, checked into our hotel and went for a walk.

    We started at Mirabell Gardens and Schloss Mirabell, scene of some classic moments in The Sound of Music. It's also home to the Zwergerlgarten, 28 dwarfs carved in marble in 1695... and would you believe, "the oldest dwarf garden in Europe" (I'm surprised there's more than one!)

    Again our walk was cut short by an afternoon thunderstorm, so we took shelter in a restaurant and enjoyed a schnitzel and spätzle (egg noodles) for dinner.
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  • The Casino and the Telegondola

    7 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We continued our walk around the Old Town this morning, finishing at the Constanța Casino, on the waterfront.

    Completed in 1910, the casino was bombed in both world wars (because of its proximity to the harbour), then transformed into a cultural house, restaurant and tourist office before finally being abandoned in 1990. Since 2019 it has been undergoing restoration, due to open again later this year.

    Mamaia is a summer beach resort destination, with only a handful of permanent residents staying there over winter.

    Mamaia lies on a strip of land 8 km long and only 300 m wide, between the Black Sea and Lake Siutghiol. As it is very early in the season, most attractions and restaurants were closed... but some look like they have been closed for many years, so it would be interesting to see the town at the height of summer.

    We caught the telegondola back to the southern end of Mamaia, then an Uber to the train station.

    Our train back to Bucharest departed on time, but we stopped with an engine problem about 10 minutes down the track. The engine was unhooked and a replacement arrived about an hour later and we were on our way again.

    We caught the underground back to Marina's for a quiet night in, packing bags ready for our flight tomorrow.
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  • Train to the seaside

    6 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    An early start for everyone today. Marina is travelling to Belgium to play in a corporate touch rugby tournament, and we're catching the train to Constanța, on the Black Sea Coast.

    After a pleasant 2.5 hour journey, we arrived in Constanța at 1pm and walked to the centre of town via a number of caches.

    Constanța is Romania's oldest continuously inhabited city (founded 300BC), and the largest port on the Black Sea, and our hotel is in the centre of the Old Town.

    In the afternoon, we were having a lovely walk around the old town when a summer thunderstorm struck. We took shelter in a building entrance and stayed there for an hour until the rain stopped.

    After a change of clothes at our hotel we had dinner in one of the many alfresco eateries in the main plaza, followed by our farewell papanași.
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  • The People's House

    5 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Today we did a guided tour of the Palace of the Parliament (aka House of the Republic aka The People's House), the seat of the Romanian Parliament. It is on Unity Boulevard, originally named Triumph of Socialism Boulevard.

    It was ordered built by Communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu and built by displacing 50,000 citizens and demolishing their homes in the 1980's (no compensation was offered).

    It is the heaviest building in the world, containing 1,100 rooms, 10 stories above ground, and 8 below, including a nuclear bunker under Ceausescu's former office. If you visited one room every thirty seconds it would take you 9 hours to visit them all.

    After our visit we walked into Unity Plaza for lunch, then home on the underground. The underground system is efficient and reliable - and cheap, a single journey to anywhere on the network is $1.
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  • Park'n'Shop

    4 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We caught the underground again today, this time south of the city to Vacaresti Nature Park, which is a wetlands surrounding Lake Văcărești.

    The area was part of a large swampy area on the outskirts of Bucharest that was drained by the Communist Party and apartment blocks built at one end. President Ceaușescu wanted to build a reservoir which was supposed to be filled from Mihăilești Lake, 22 kilometres away, and a concrete dam was built to surround Lake Văcărești.

    The plans were abandoned when communism fell in 1989 and the area was neglected. Due to the area being unused for such long time, plant-life and wildlife flourished and the biodiversity is now considered to be comparable to that of a small river delta. There are now a number of bird hides and walking trails in the park.

    After lunch at a nearby cafe we caught the underground back to the north of the city, stopping at the shopping mall for some supplies and afternoon tea, before walking back to Marina's.
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  • Bucharest Old Town

    3 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    We caught the underground Metro to the city this morning for a walk around the cobbled, car free streets of the Old Town, a mix of restaurants, nightclubs, ancient churches and historic buildings. And a decent number of caches.

    The weather was fine and hot again, so the walk was leisurely and the refreshment stops numerous. After a few hours walking and lunch al fresco, we caught the underground in the late afternoon back to Marina's, for a quiet night in.
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  • Casa Ceausescu

    2 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Today we toured Casa Ceausescu, also known as the Spring Palace, which was the Bucharest residence of the leader of the Communist Party. It was most notably the home of Nicolae Ceausescu and his family from 1965 until he was overthrown in 1989, so is generally referred to as the Ceausescu House.

    In a country where most residents had no electricity or running water, it was an opulent house, with an indoor swimming pool, cinema room, sauna, hair salon and a golden bathroom - the rumour at the time was that the bathroom was solid gold, and while it is gold in colour, the guide told us is all gold plating and contains next to no actual gold (no photos are permitted inside, so we can't share any of the gaudy details)

    Late lunch was at an outdoor terrace restaurant, and our first serving of papanasi, the national dessert.
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  • Children's Day

    1 juni 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We woke up to a warm day for the first day of summer, with 33 degrees forecast. It's also International Children's Day and a public holiday in Romania.

    We walked into the city centre, where many of the streets were closed and were filled with cafe tables, children's games and activities. Of course we stopped on the way for morning tea, lunch and caches.

    After having ice creams in the park, we caught an Uber back to Marina's and had dinner in, before watching the UEFA Champions League final on TV.
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  • SCO to RO

    31 mei 2024, Roemenië ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Early morning wake-up for our flight to Romania. We left the hotel at 6am with a breakfast bag in hand and walked to catch the airport bus.

    We flew to Bucharest via Amsterdam, arriving at 5.20pm.

    Marina arranged an Uber to collect us, and we arrived at her apartment around 6.30pm.

    It's a warm evening and the outdoor dining scene is popular in Bucharest, so we walked to dinner around 8.30pm.

    The restaurant was crowded with families and groups enjoying the balmy evening, and we had a relaxed dinner, then walked back to her apartment via a couple of caches... which included Marina's first find!
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  • Journey to the centre of Edinburgh

    30 mei 2024, Schotland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After docking in the early hours, we had time to enjoy a hearty breakfast before disembarking around 8am.

    Our tour included an extra day in Edinburgh, so 23 of us boarded a bus and began with a view over the 3 bridges of the River Forth.

    Next stop was Jupiter Artland, an outdoor sculpture park on the grounds of a 17th century manor house on the outskirts of Edinburgh. On the weekends in summer they get 1,000 people a day visiting, but today was thankfully much quieter. Following a guided tour we had lunch on the grounds.

    After checking into our city hotel, we had a few hours to spare before dinner, so we went in search of possibly the most low key tourist attraction in Edinburgh, the marker for the centre of the city (thanks JK for the tip).
    It is a black post located outside the former GPO, and marks the point where all distances to the city are measured. Unsurprisingly, we were the only ones taking pictures with it!

    Dinner with the group was in the hotel, and an early night before and early start tomorrow.
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  • Maybe

    29 mei 2024, North Sea ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We have a full day at sea today as we make our way back to Edinburgh, so plenty of time to wander around the ship, catch up on reading, reflect on the trip... and start to pack. We also made our first visit to the bridge.

    As we head south the weather is getting warmer, and the fog lifting. The Faroes and it's island neighbours in the north Atlantic could be described as the Lands of Maybe. Nothing can be guaranteed, as the weather has a habit of putting a stop to the best laid plans. Maybe the sun will shine today, maybe the supply boat will arrive, maybe the planes will be able land... In fact there are 37 different words for fog in the Faroe Islands. Slavtoka is a rainy mist. Mjørkabrúgv is a fog bank that sits on the horizon. Hjallamjørki is a thick belt of fog, above and below which it is tantalisingly clear. And fjallamjørki is a mountain fog, which descends from the heavens in a matter of seconds, covering small settlements "like a burst of breath on a window pane".

    We had a preview of the trip video blog, compiled by one of the trip photographers, then a final dinner where all the crew were introduced. Docking is expected in Edinburgh at 3am, and we disembark after breakfast.
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  • Farewell Faroes

    28 mei 2024, Faeröer ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Our final day in the Faroes began with the ship repositioning during the night to the harbour in Midvagur, on the island of Vagar.

    After breakfast we boarded buses to Sandavágar church. It is a light and airy wooden church, with a model of a boat hanging from the beams. We learnt that every church on the Faroes has a boat inside somewhere, some to commemorate loved ones lost to the ocean, a safe return from a voyage, or as a reminder of their link to the sea. There is no point on the Faroes that is more than 5km from the sea, and all but one settlement is on the coast (the other one is on a lake shore)

    The village of Gásadalur was our final stop for the day. Until 2003 it was not accessible by road as it was considered too costly to blast through the rock and connect it's 14 residents with the rest of the country. However, following a generous government rethink, engineers completed a 1.7km-long tunnel in February 2003 to bring their blissful isolation to an end.

    The tunnel also opened up the number of visitors to Múllafossur Waterfall, possibly the Faroes most famous tourist attraction. It falls 30m off the edge of a cliff directly into the sea and has a convenient viewpoint a short walk away.

    On the way back to the ship we walked through the village of Bøur (only residents cars are allowed in the village), and had coffee and cake in a small family run cafe. The village was a base for British soldiers during World War 2, as it is close to the airport.

    We set sail for Edinburgh after lunch and had a restful afternoon of presentations and eating, before the crew talent show after dinner.
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  • We're on strike*

    27 mei 2024, Faeröer ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We had a plan for today, but it got scuppered by a general strike of minimum wage workers in the Faroes.... and as there were no cleaners working, the streets were not cleaned, bins not emptied and schools were closed. All the petrol stations bar 1 were also closed, so many bus companies couldn't provide transport, and locals were using their cars sparingly, so the roads were very quiet.

    Our plan B was to reposition the boat to Hvalvik (Whale Bay... like the Scottish "wick", Faroese vik = bay), then use a local bus company to drive us to the other side of the island to catch a charter boat to see the Vestmanna bird cliffs and the thousands of birds nesting there.

    We returned to the ship for lunch, then headed out in the afternoon to the village of Saksun, then back to Eysturoy Island (this time via a bridge across the Atlantic... much bigger than the one in Scotland) , for a visit to a lookout, and a scenic drive.

    Tonight's after dinner entertainment was a pub quiz in the bar, where we came a respectable 4th. *Our team name was "We're on strike"
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