Sigiriya

After another full day of travelling we arrived in Polonnaruwa where we were basing ourselves to explore some ancient sites.
The first one of these roughly an hour or so down the road is the world famous UNESCO heritage site of Sigiriya rock. You may reconigse this as it is one of the most recognised images from Sri Lanka, and of course an absolute must do to visit and climb.
We went for the cheap but slow option of getting there, by travelling on 2 buses (total price £1.70 for us both) and we arrived around 9am.

We had noticed it was quite a grey day, which we hadn't really seen before but were hoping it would clear up as the views were supposed to be amazing from the top. After a long walk to the entrance we paid the extortionate entry price and wondered down the main boulevard towards the giant rock. Wow is really the first word that comes to mind, it is such a dramatic site and mind blowing to look at it knowing you're going to climb up there. It is believed on top of the Rock and surrounding land was all part of King Kassapa's (AD 477-495) palace and gardens. Some have challenged this and believe it was a monastery and religious site. It seems both are believed and both have some evidence for. Regardless it is quite a wonder! Everywhere you look are original fountains of buildings or gardens, such as the original pools that make up a water garden that runs parallel with the main path. These are over a 1000 years old yet archeologists believe that they are the same as they were. We ambled down slowly, equally trying to avoid some tour groups as we got closer to the base of the forthcoming climb.
It starts with old stone steps that are fairly steep but doable. Unfortunately the whole place is full of annoying 'helpers' who try to give you a hand or arm up, but then will harass you for money for that help. We already knew about this from fellow travellers but they weren't targeting us anyway, they went for older people or those clearly struggling. People were physically trying to shake them off when they grabbed at people's arms. It was frustrating to see, especially picking on those who were vulnerable.
Anyway we continued to climb upwards. I'm being brave as so far it hasn't been too bad but I was nervous with what was to come, due to my crippling fear of heights. Regardless I knew I was going to do this as I'd kick myself forever if I didn't make it to the top.
After the stone steps was a tall spiral staircase with a cage round it (thank god as the drop was...yeah) this led you into an alcove within the giant stone. Inside here was original ancient painting of frescoes - essentially mainly naked woman holding flowers or jewellery. These were in unbelievable condition, largely due to being sheltered from the weather.
After looking at these we went down another spiral staircase cage - thank god there was two to create a one way system, at the bottom it lead out onto a stone pathway hugging the side of the rock. The other side was a large thick wall of stone which was called the 'mirror wall' as it was made to be so smooth people could see themselves in it. Now it's not like that as there is ancient graffiti carved into it so it's protected from being touched. The graffiti apparently describes how amazed they were by the mystery women as dipicted in the frescoes.
The climb continued upwards on narrow limestone steps with no handrail so felt quite precarious. However we made to a flat outcrop before the final level. The final pathway to the top are made up of some original steps and then a metal framed staircase positioned jutting out from the rock. The entrance to the original steps are framed by two large Lions paws made from stone and are in incredible condition. It is believed that once the steps led into what would have been the mouth of a Lion if that was still in tact. Sadly not but what a site that would have been to enter!
The paws were very impressive and it was good to get a safe breather to look at them.
Then it was the final ascent. So far I was pleasantly surprised by the climb, although nerve wracking in places certainly not terrifying. Dam me thinking those thoughts as it was the last flight of stairs that had me shaking!
The final climb was a metal staircase that stuck out from the rock out over the drop (Sigiriya is 660 feet high) and you could see between the steps. I was hanging on the bannister with all my might and desperately concentrating on each step trying not to look down. At this point, now 'vulnerable' along came one of those dam helpers waving his arms in front of me and being frankly a distracting nuisance, not helping me at all. Before I had a chance to tell him to f off, Phil very firmly told him to get lost and he left, thankfully! Well done Phil!

The final final staircase was practically vertical limestone steps with no handrail, I was basically climbing it like a ladder and through myself onto the top. Immediately you can see original foundation walls around the site and the area was heavily levelled. We walked into the centre and started to check out the view, which now was pretty overcast but you can tell you could see for miles. Remember when I said it was a grey day? Now it started to spit with rain so we started to rush around looking at the different areas, such as a huge pool which they believe was part of the palace gardens. Suddenly without warning was a loud rumble and the rain exploded from the sky. There is no shelter on the top of the rock, although there was a tiny tree we bolted towards for cover. Of course that didn't work as now it is monsoon rain. The type of rain where the raindrops are so huge and the power so hard it's almost painful as it hits you and you are soaked through in seconds.
So there we were stuck up on this massive rock, Phil hunched over the bag of belongings trying to keep our stuff dry (failing) and me shaking as water pours down my face and body. What the hell are we going to do now!? It's a pretty funny scenario looking back now but at the time it was not, especially as I had already slipped over and hurt my arm a bit. I kept thinking how on earth am I going to get down that horrendous staircase now it's also raining. Looks like I'm gonna live here forever, I thought.
After awhile the rain eased off but it was still incredibly grey so we knew it wasn't over but thought we should take our chance to get down while not actually raining. As expected the steps was covered in water and ridiculously slippery. So helpful to someone terrified of heights. But I percevered and although the slowest person up there and held back a massive queue of adventureous Sri Lankans I got back down. I'm sure it was laughable to them but I'm proud I did it and without crying too!
Of course now we are sodden to say the least so weren't really in the mood for wandering around much more, although we did go into the museum which was really interesting to see old photos and learn more about the place (and shielded us from another downpour).
From here was a long and soggy journey back to where we saying which included the first bus driver trying to charge double (don't mess with me after what I've been through... he didn't get it) and the second bus being an actual white knuckle ride where even locals were screaming and people were hurled around the bus.
What a day! Although a wash out, honestly what an amazing place Sigiriya is.

BethRead more