Euro Winter

December 2023 - February 2024
A 71-day adventure by Jarrod Read more
  • 69footprints
  • 10countries
  • 71days
  • 972photos
  • 55videos
  • 16.4kkilometers
  • 11.4kkilometers
  • 291kilometers
  • Day 22

    Krakow Exploring

    January 5 in Poland ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    It was blisteringly cold today in Krakow, and given the busy travel day I had yesterday, as well as the late arrival to the hostel, I took it easy in the morning. However, being in a hostel didn't provide the most comfortable circumstances to relax, so it wasn't too long before I started to explore the old town of Krakow. There was plenty to see, and the beautiful city of Krakow did not disappoint in old buildings, amazing architecture, beautiful streets, a lively atmosphere, and interesting monuments all around. I started the day by taking the long route toward the world famous Krakow city centre. Not only is it the largest in the world with an enourmas plaza, encapsulating a cute little street market, but also has many cathedrals, monuments, and historical buildings. I spent a bit of time wandering the Plaza before picking a direction and walking off. I headed East to what ended up being the original city gates. Although many once existed, this is the only remaining gate from the original castle town that Krakow once was. Interestingly, the old town is now surrounded by a beautiful park that is situated where the city moat once stood. Once I walked through the gate, I explored the garden before re-entering in the north and continuing my aimless wander. I entered a few basilicas and cathedrals before eventually turning my attention to the main attraction of Krakow, the castle. Stood atop the hill in the West, it overlooks the beautiful city and the river Vistula, creating some amazing views. The outside of the cathedral reflected the different time periods that the cathedral had been built. It stood as an interesting compilation of different architectural designs, added on top of one another. As I got my audio guide and headed inside, I learnt that this is more or less correct. Different Saints and historical figures from Krakows history would have different chapels added to the inside of the cathedral over time, and the outside would be built in whatever style that period reflected. The cathedral was beautiful inside, but unfortunately, it didn't allow for photos in the more extravagant sections. It was a shame but a typical theme in some of these tourist attractions. After the cathedral, I headed to the museum, which was kind of interesting, but I didn't spend overly long there. I preferred to wander around the outside of the church, in the courtyard, see the old ruins, the old palace, and so on so forth. Eventually, though, the sun was setting, and I had to begin my trek home. It was hard to get anywhere in the city without stumbling across some beautiful buildings and completing some exploring. As such, I wandered into a few more cathedrals on my way home before stopping for some dinner. I would be up early tomorrow to complete an Auschwitz-Birkenau tour, so I wanted a reasonable night after a bit of travel planning and journalling.Read more

  • Day 23

    Auschwitz-Birkenau

    January 6 in Poland ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    Unfortunately, I was late to book a personal ticket for Auschwitz-Birkenau, and so I had to complete a guided tour with a travel company on Get your Guide. Something that I detest to. I don't like having to miss out on a personal ticket to encourage you to buy through a travel company. Though admittedly, I had a great tour and understand why they do it. It does great things for tourism in the region and does add to the experience. The tour guide was great, and she provided a very immersive experience and I learnt a lot more than I would have without a guide. Some of the stories were horrific, and it was truly an experience I'll never forget for all the wrong reasons. We started by walking through Auschwitz, the original camp that was designed for labour. Mostly containing Polish intellectuals, prisons of war, and threats to the nazi regime, they worked endless hours with barely any food, brutal treatment, and the occasional bout of torture. In the early days, they preferred to complete the executions in the form of starvation or exhaustion. Not yet in full genocidal fervour. As we progressed, we made our way through history, and as the early 1940s arrived, we began to see the more extreme killings and treatment of prisoners. They soon realised Auschwitz was unsuitable for the quantity of people that they were beginning to imprison, and so began construction of Birkenau just a couple kilometres away, which we will get to. This was the result of beginning the mass transportation of millions of Jews out of the cities into their new 'safe home'. They told the Jewish people to bring their most precious belongings on their journey to their new safe and secure city built just for the Jews to live amongst themselves. They provided a horrificly false sense of security by having bands play music, having welcoming rooms, and the like to ensure that no panic set in. Of course, in reality, they were stripped of their belongings and sent very quickly into labour camps. Auschwitz was also the first place to have an extermination facility and crematorium. For those who arrived and could not work, the disabled, the old, and most saddly, the children and the pregnant, were sent straight to their death. These people were often put to death as soon as they arrived due to having no labour capacity. In another attempt to minimise panic and stress amongst the new arrivals, the nazis conducted one of the most macabre and gruesome things. Rather than separate the mothers from their children and likely cause panic, they would instead send all of them to the extermination facilities altogether. They would then tell them to remember the number in which they placed all their belongings so they could easily be found after their shower, then locked them in a huge factory, and suffocated them with Xyklon B, and stealing all their belongings to fund their war machine. Some of the installations showed the sheer quantity of belongings that had been stolen from their prisoners. Quite interestingly, many of the survivors of Auschwitz even found strength in themselves to complete tours of the now museum to teach people of the horrors and the disgusting treatment within the camps. One of which spent 60 years completing tours through Auschwitz. Toward the end of the Auschwitz tour, we began to explore the soldier quarters and the extermination facility. As we made our way through, we walked past the manor of Rudolf Hoess, who was the commander of both Auschwitz and Birkenau for most of the war. After he was sentenced to death in the Nuremberg trials, he was executed within the camp as a symbol to all those who died under his command. We then walked past the soldiers' quarter that was situated right next to the extermination facility. They had to have trucks running outside the soldiers' lunch room because the screams would ruin their rest time, apparently. We then saw the remnants of the crematorium and extermination facilities, of which only remain because the Germans used them as air raid shelters at the end of the war.

    When we arrived at birkenau, we learnt how many of the most incriminating buildings were destroyed to get rid of the evidence of genocide. Yet, the most daunting part of Birkenau was the sheer size of everything. They couldn't destroy it all. It was mind-blowing to walk along the train tracks and check every direction and see row after row of long thin brick buildings. We walked for 30 minutes through these buildings before arriving at a map that showed the tiny little portion that we had actually explored. The sheer size was difficult to comprehend. Even more macabre still, the nazis had become more efficient at exterminating Jews than they had been able to achieve the burning and removal of the bodies. Meaning that a facility had to be built purely to store the backlog of bodies that had not yet been burnt. Our guide then walked us through the buildings and the living conditions of the prisoners. In bunks of three, 10 people would sleep on each level. I would estimate close to a hundred bunks in each house and fucking hundreds of these houses in Birkenau. As far as the eye could see. The number to imagine is far too much to comprehend. The people on the top bunks were generally the newer, stronger prisoners because the weakest could not fight for their position. Diorhea that was prominant throughout the whole camp provides the picture as too why. You begin to understand and be able to comprehend how 6 million people died in this camp alone when you see the sheer size of it all. These were the people 'lucky' enough you have not been killed instantly upon arrival, once again determined if they could be useful to the regime. After this emotionally draining walk, we finally finished the tour. Going from the train tracks to the sorting facility, following those on the death walk, seeing the memorial and the destroyed extermination facilities, then seeing the number of concentration camps before ending with the conditions inside.

    I am a bit of a history buff, and consider my knowledge of the second world war above average, and so although I thought I knew a lot about the treatment of the Jews, I really didnt. This tour portrays a picture that can not be comprehended with words and stories. Being there and seeing the size and efficiency with which the nazis were killing innocent people puts a whole different perspective on your life. 6 million is a number that the brain can not comprehend, but seeing these sites makes it slightly easier.
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  • Day 24

    Snowy Krakow

    January 7 in Poland ⋅ ❄️ -5 °C

    Today, I had awoken to a wonderful surprise. Snow had smothered every surface across the city. I had hoped to see snow when I saw the forecast, but we got that and some. I had to go and explore the city and see it under a layer of white. It was incredible to see the city like this, but of course, it was also freezing. I battled it for as long as I could before needing to stop from some lunch and some warmth. I also booked a tour for today, but the temperature sure made me second guess it. Either way, I planned to explore the city, so I figured I may as well learn something along the way. Though it was difficult to survive the temperature as it began to plummet after the sun went down. I don't regret doing the tour as I learnt the history of the city, some key figures in its history, and some great places to drink and eat. I learnt that to battle the problem of waste generation in the Middle Ages, instead of removing it, they simply buried it in sand. Over the years, the surface of the Plaza rose many feet under a layer of sand and rubbish. As such, there is a museum under the Plaza that shows off the city's history, as well as the things found within the sand centuries later. Most interestingly was the remains of dead people. Though the guide didn't spoil much more than that in case we planned to visit. We then learnt about the first pope not to be Italian, who was a polish man from the city of Krakow. By the time we finished the tour, it was just about dark, and I had a bit of a walk to get home. Instead of that, i sat at the pub and enjoyed some warmth and a guiness. It so happened that the Liverpool vs. Arsenal game was on and so I figured I may as well stay for that. Liverpool grinded out a 2-0 win to send Arsenal win-less in 4 games. After this, I headed to the wine bar below our building and got a free wine and a couple more reds at my own expense. Having not eaten, drank water, consumed the alcohol quickly, and mixed plenty of drinks, I started to feel unwell. After getting back to my apartment, the food I ate to make me feel better didn't stay down for long, and I had to send myself to bed knowing a hangover was ahead.Read more

  • Day 25

    Bed Day

    January 8 in Poland ⋅ ⛅ -8 °C

    As I predicted for myself, I woke up a bit rough. Though I could have pushed myself my hangover to see the city, it was also -8 (feels like -12) degrees outside, and I had already seen most of the city that I wanted to. As such, I gave myself a recovery day. I tried to be productive with travel planning and journaling, but motivation was low, and it didn't go particularly well. As such, it was basically a throw away day. By the time I had to force myself out of the hotel room (luckily, I upgraded yesterday), it was about 8 pm and -16 degrees outside. It felt every bit. I have never felt a cold that instantly pierces every layer of clothing (which was about 5) and hits you right into the bones. My body felt wet it was so cold. Luckily, I was only outside for a matter of minutes to grab some dinner and head back to the hotel to eat and sleep.Read more

  • Day 26

    Travel Day

    January 9 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Another day that was rather uneventful due to travelling, I simply woke up, packed my bags, and checked out of my hotel. It was freezing outside at approximately -11 degrees at 10am on my way to my flight. But because I would be spending most of my time in airports, planes, and buses, I couldn't wear all my layers. I waited as long as I could for my Uber and braced the cold for a couple of minutes in next to no layers. Despite the struggle and freezing cold, I did manage to survive. I then arrived a few hours early and simply found somewhere to sit down and organise my life a little bit before my flight. When my flight arrived, I realised my tablet and my earphones were close to dead. This made the flight painfully boring. After arriving, I caught a bus to Milan Central and caught up with my parents after about a 40-minute walk. Because it was quite late by the time I arrived, we simply found a nice Italian restaurant where we could enjoy some proper Italian pasta before we once again left for the hotel room. We had a lot of planning to do over the next couple of days and figured we should use as much time as possible.Read more

  • Day 27

    Milan Round 2

    January 10 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Because I had seen Milan many months ago, I wasn't overly fussed to explore much of the city and instead chose to spend time planning the next parts of my trip. Eventually, though, my parents and I decided to go to Duomo. Although I had already seen it, I was keen to see the other parts that were not open when I went. On our way, we stopped by the Sforzesco Castle, the Parco Sempione, and saw the Arco della Pace, the latter of which I didn't see in my first visit to the city. Though, it was much nicer to visit without huge crowds. When we arrived at the duomo, however, we faced the same fate that I suffered upon my first time in Milan. Every Wednesday, the museum and other cathedral are closed, and you can only see the duomo. Although the main attraction, I had seen it last time I was in Milan and so figure there was no point going again. While my parents explored the cathedral, I walked around and did some window shopping before catching up with them and finding somewhere to eat. We found a pasta restaurant I had gone to upon my first visit and recommended we try it. It was a seafood restaurant and it was amazing. Even better than the first time I went. After this, we once again returned to complete some travel planning, this time being far more productive. Due to a somewhat early train trip, we headed to bed early.Read more

  • Day 28

    Lake Como Train

    January 11 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Although today was little more than a travel day, it was one of the more interesting that I have had during my travels. This was because I would be able to finally visit Lake Como, something I missed in the first part of my trip due to financial constraints. Even still, I would just be seeing it via a train ride, and we wouldn't have any opportunity to stop and smell the roses. Nonetheless, it still made for a very exciting train ride and a nice travel day. After a few hours of taking photos and completing journals, we arrived at the small little town of Tirano. We arrived just as a lot of restaurants were beginning to close for the Italian ciesta, so rushed for a quick feed. After this, it was early afternoon, and so began to see what the small town had on offer. A part from a nice man-made river running through it, with the typical clear and light blue water from the alps, there wasn't a lot on offer. We walked to see a small cathedral that was built on the location in which the virgin Mary appeared to Mario Omodei, and although not looking like much from the outside, was spectacularly detailed on the inside. Every inch of the walls and rooves contained the statue or sculpture of an angel, a priest, a Saint, or some other religious figure. The patterns and detail that the cathedral contained made it one of the most shocking and surprising that I had seen. This was about it for our afternoon, we walked back along the river and had a drink in the afternoon before hitting the shops for some groceries and parking up for the night.Read more

  • Day 29

    Birthday on the Benina

    January 12 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    My 26th birthday would be spent in a very special way as we would cross the border from Italy to Switzerland and begin our journey through the alps. This started by catching a train along Lake Como before ascending through the snow-covered mountains of Europe. This was incredible. We got to watch the landscape change from green and vibrant to the smothering white that engulfed all the trees, rocks, grasses, and mountains. Before long, the only sight within our grasp was the very tips of trees and the endless white that sparkled as the sunlight hit it. This was personified when we approached the highest altitude of our trip and came across a "reservoir." This was a water source during the summer, with one side emptying to the Mediterranean and the other entering into the black sea. However, at this time of year, it appeared as little more than an ice desert, seeming devoid of life. To our surprise, as we continued along the frozen lake, we began to see kite-snowboarders, utilising the power of the wind to propel themselves through the snow. It was an interesting way to snowboard and not something I had ever seen before. It did look very fun, though. Shortly after this, we approached a location in which we could stop for some photos and soak up the magnificent view at one of the highest altitudes I had experienced on my travels. 2091m above sea level. I believe the only time I've been higher was when I completed Bobotov kuk and the Serengeti. We then continued our travels through the rugged mountains weaving through the valleys and crossing mountain paths until we arrived at the station of St Moritz. Unfortunately, we only had about 2 hours on the train, but it wasn't particularly comfortable, so by the end, I was happy to be able to stretch my legs. This meant that when we arrived and looked over the lake at St Moritz, we gathered the courage to complete the walk to the hostel as opposed to a bus, which would have been easy to catch. Although this meant that we had to drag our bags, it hardly took away from the beautiful landscape that lay ahead of us. The mountains that surround the city provide a perfect backdrop to the alpine town, the ice lake, the beautifully frozen trees, and the occasional semi frozen river. These rivers gave an insight into exactly how clear the waters are. Capturing melting ice from the mountain, there is little opportunity for pollution, and so they remain crystal clear. The air was so brisk when we arrived at St Moritz that even the trees had developed a layer of frozen ice on its branches, as though replacing its leaves for the winter. This white facade to go with the snow-covered paths, lakes, and mountains meant that it encapsulates the ski town perfectly. After about an hour of walking, due mostly to us enjoying the scenery, we arrived at our hostel just an hour before we could check in. As such, we dropped our bags and backtracked along the river to get a better view of what the town had on offer. We saw people playing, walking their dogs, and ice skating on the frozen river, showing how they transformed the space during winter. We learnt later that they even host horse racing and polo events on the lake during winter. The cold didn't stop the locals from enjoying Gluhwein, hot chocolate, or a coffee outside and soaking up as much of the sun as possible, while it was still in the sky. After we endeavoured onto the frozen lake and enjoyed a warm drink ourselves, it was quickly getting cold as the sun's strength dwindled. As such, we headed to the supermarket to get some groceries for the next couple of days before going back to the accommodation. We enjoyed some drinks to finish off a great birthday and rest while we defrosted in the rooms.Read more

  • Day 30

    St Moritz

    January 13 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ -4 °C

    As we aren't the most avid skiiers, and St Mortiz is mostly a ski town, we kept our plans simple and tried to wander around the river and see what the town has to offer. What we found was that we do not have the gear capable of spending much time in the snow. We began our day with a quick body warming Gluhwein before cracking onto the river walk. Because the start of the walk is protected from the sun by the mountain, the icy path and the slight breeze was piercing through our many layers. It didn't take long until I had completely lost feeling in my toes and had to pick up the pace to try and find some sun again. About halfway through the walk, my toes began to seriously hurt, I simply didn't have the shoes capable of surviving in these alpine regions. Although I did thoroughly enjoy the walk, I enjoyed the second half more where I could soak up some rays and let myself thaw out. Luckily, the moment we began walking in the sun, my toes stopped hurting, regained feeling, and began functioning properly. Although quite weak at this time of the year, the difference the direct sunlight makes on your body is insane. As such, we completed our walk around the perimeter by ending where we started yesterday, at the train station. Here we found a cafe where we could stop for a Gluhwein and rest. After this, we began our tour of the town to see what might be on offer. Though the town centre was as small as the town itself, it had all the stores that you might expect from a luxury alpine ski town. Gucci, Prada, and all the rest lined the streets. This made our wander significantly quicker as we obviously saw no desire to pop in and have a look around. That being said, we could hardly complain as the town itself was beautiful and warranted exploring. The tiny houses with pointy rooves, unique architecture, and colours truly made the walk worth it on its own. We saw a few landmarks that the city has, mostly a couple tours, before continuing back down the hill toward our hostel. We stopped for some groceries again to keep us going as cheaply as possible before calling it a day.Read more

  • Day 31

    Glacier Express

    January 14 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ -2 °C

    Having seen some of the most beautiful sections of the dolomite while travelling on the Benina Express, we knew that the Glacier Express was going to be next level. Instead of 2 hours, we were in for 8 hours of beautiful train travel through valleys and mountain ranges that rivalled those seen two days earlier. Though this time, we sat in luxury, a spacious, comfortable seat with audio information pieces, traditional Swiss music, a drink and food menu, all to go with some of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen in my life. We started with a small ascent toward the town of Chur where we experienced some fantastic mountains and icy landscapes, we then fell in altitude slightly and regathered ourseleves at the foothills of the alps, witnessing beautiful rivers and frosted green trees. Shortly after this, we began our ascent back into the mountains. This began the highest we would peak as we approached the town of Andermatt. Funnily enough, I had friends current here skiing, and although we stopped for photos, we never ran into them. When we stopped here, we were close to our highest altitude and got some of the best views. It was honestly the closest I've ever been to having my breath literally taken out of my lungs. Whether you attribute this to the cold or the view is up to you, but I could barely believe my eyes. Seeing the skiiers and snowboarders carve down the hill while overlooking the beautiful mountains has truly given me a good enough reason to take up the sport. Not only does it look endlessly fun and thrilling, but the views you get while doing it have to be some of the best in the world. Even as we continued on the train, the endless number of slopes we passed only reinforced the fact that snowboarding gives you plenty of opportunities to see the mountains while you have fun. Perhaps on my next trip, will i give myself time to pick it up. Once we passed Andermatt, we began our descent again, though the views didn't stop until we hot the town of Brig. By this time, we were truly in the valley, and although there were still some magical rivers, the mind-blowing mountains were well and truly behind us. After 8 hours on the train, we finally arrived and witnessed the beautiful town of Zermatt for the first time. It was so quaint and amazing. Though small and simple, it had a great atmosphere, with plenty of holidayers and skiiers not too afraid of the cold to stop them from a night out. We briefly went for a walk after we dropped off our bags but were sure to not spoil too much of the town for ourselves. As such, we stopped for a famous Swiss hot chocolate and then once again passed by the supermarket for some dinner before bed.Read more