The Balkans

July - August 2023
A 47-day adventure by Jarrod Read more
  • 46footprints
  • 6countries
  • 47days
  • 538photos
  • 15videos
  • 4.4kkilometers
  • 1.4kkilometers
  • Day 46

    Lake Bled

    August 19, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Another major bucket list item of mine was Lake Bled north of Ljubljana. My sister said it was amazing, and Hairy had mentioned that the water is the most beautiful that he's ever been in. I gave myself a decent sleep in to manage my hangover and then headed to the bus station and jumped onto the bus. It was quite busy but I'm getting kind of used to that in Europe. When I got off the bus and made my way to the lake, it was breathtaking when you first looked over the crystal clear water and the surrounding nature. Not to mention the castle that precariously looks over the lake from a steep cliff, adding to the surreal feeling. As you wander around the lake, which is 6km around the perimeter, eventually you reach the bled island. Within the lake is an island that houses a church and stands about 50m tall. I don't understand the reasoning behind going to the effort to build a church on an island, especially in the 17th century, but it looks unreal from the mainland. Of course you can get ferried across for a fee, but it was quite expensive. I figured I'd skip it. You can swim there, and I was keen to try it, but I am once again travelling on my own and didn't want to leave my bag unattended for so long while I swam to the island. As such, I never got onto the island, which is quite unfortunate, but this is one of the disadvantages of solo travelling. I did, however, get to go for a swim, and I couldn't believe how nice it felt to swim in. Some water just feels incredible on the skin. It was nice to escape the salty water of the Mediterranean and actually experience crystal clear water that is fresh water.

    I think I will need to come back to Lake Bled, as I was aware of a hike that you can complete that provides the best views of the lake and town. I would love to try that. But the next best place for a photo is the castle that overlooks the lake and island. Although it was a great photo op, it was not worth the 15 euros that I paid for entry. I tried to get a student discount, but when she said I needed an ID, it was too late to back out of payment. The view was really all that was on offer. The castle itself was cool, but there wasn't much else there. As such, I didn't spend too much time in there before heading down the hill to get to my bus. Given how busy the bus on the way here was, I figured I should get in line for my bus as soon as possible. I stopped at the church on my way down, and that was quite cool, but other than that, I briefly explored the town of Bled. It was a really cute little ski town with some interesting architecture and very cute roads. After this, I headed home and got ready for a big travel day tomorrow. Unfortunately, I couldn't fit the photos of the town in the 20 photos, so I will have to share them when I'm home.
    Read more

  • Day 45

    Ljubljana Fever Dreams

    August 18, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today, I wanted to explore the town of Ljubljana. I have heard some amazing things, but I was still unprepared for how beautiful of a city it was. I came from the Balkans, which is quite impoverished and underdeveloped, but even compared to some cities in Italy, it is cleaner, greener, historical, beautiful, and liveable. I became used to the major cities I stayed in being dirty and filled with rubbish, but given the population density, you come to expect it. However, I don't think I saw even the littlest bit of rubbish lying around, despite being the capital city. It had beautiful greenery that seemed like functional areas of nature that reminded me of Australia. Many capital cities line a few roads with trees and act like it's a green city, but Ljubljana seemed like the first place that dedicated specific areas for natural recreation and relaxation. It has a large population of students, so this may be the reason for it. This doesn't even mention the river that passes through the city, which is beautifully clean and the epicentre for all cultural and social events, making it the heart of the city. It maintains its history being over 1000 years old and has the architecture to reflect this. Or goes all the way back to Greek mythology if you believe in legend. The combination of greenery, old architecture and a well organised city makes it one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and a personal favourite of mine.

    I started my long tour of the city by going to the main garden in the city, Tivoli Park. I wouldn't have had enough time in the day to see it all it was so expansive, but i got a good enough glimpse wlaking through the main part. People reading, having classes, chatting and playing sport. It was so wholesome. At the end of the main path into the park lies an art gallery. I did not enter, but it would have been a cool way to round out a day in the gardens. Instead, I headed back toward the city to start my journey through the main town. In hindsight, it would have been the perfect city for a walking tour, but I just ran out of time.

    Although I had little plan for the walk, I started by exploring the marketplace that hugs the river. It was bustling with life and energy. The stalls sold some amazing food, from ribs to fruit salads, burgers, crepes, and basically anything else you could want. It all smelt amazing, but it wasn't particularly cheap, and I had to keep an eye on my budget. I did, however, buy a fruit salad and wander around. This was one of my highlights of the day because of how relaxed yet energetic the whole area felt. I then continued on my way to the dragon bridge. This was a main attraction in Ljubljana, but it wasn't all that exciting. It just had some sculptures of dragons on a regular bridge. The dragon is a symbol of the town to represent strength, power, courage, and wisdom.

    After this, it was a short walk to Ljubljana castle that overlooks the city. This means a pretty nice but gruelling walk up a hill to reach the entrance. Normally, this wouldn't be too bad, but the heat was something else. The castle was free, and although there were some paid sections, I avoided these and still felt like I got the full experience. A couple of the guys from my hostel warned me that the paid sections aren't really worth it. The castle wasn't big, but it was really cool to walk around as they had a lot of the artefacts from medieval times. But due to its size, I didn't spend a lot of time there before heading home.

    On my way home, I stopped by an Irish pub for a drink, mostly because it was nice to sit and watch the world go by, with some really nice views of the river. I then tried my first irish coffee. It was shit. I then headed back to the hostel and laid down in my bed to relax after a big day. I then met an English bloke, and we were chatting for a bit, and he invited me downstairs for a drink with some of the other people from the hostel. I didn't know it, but so kicked off one of the strangest nights of my life.

    I hadn't heard anything about Ljubljana nightlife when I arrived in the city, so I was excited to see what was on offer. We headed to an Irish pub for some drinks before going onto a club. I was quite drunk by this point, so I have no idea who got us to the next destination, but it was one of the most unique places I had ever drank. We went just outside the city to a rundown, little gated community of maybe 4 or 5 houses that had become quite derelict. They had been covered in graffiti and had not been maintained for a good few years. We continued in, and they have strange statues and decorations that make it feel very dark and gloomy. The music is also heavy metal Slovenian music, so the whole vibe is incredibly interesting. I included a video as a taster for the music. Each house had slightly different music and a bar, but I have no idea if any of it was legal or what the go was. But despite the dark atmosphere, people were incredibly nice and happy. They loved dancing and got everyone involved it was really fun. Somehow, at no point did I feel unsafe. None of it felt real. It was like one big fever dream or a bad trip.
    Read more

  • Day 44

    Slovenian Travel Day

    August 17, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After my long night in the Corfu airport, I was rewarded with a flight to Frankfurt and a heavily delayed flight from Frankfurt to Ljubljana. I wasn't overly upset given at one point I thought I missed this flight, but luckily, time zones exist, and I was gifted another hour to get to the original flight time. Although this ended up being redundant as it was delayed an hour and a half, I still couldn't complain. This tested that theory as we then had about a 45-minute wait once we boarded the plane and sat on the tarmac. Eventually, tho we did take off, and after about 3 hours of waiting, the one hour flight to Slovenia arrived, and I jumped off my flight onto a bus and arrived just outside my accommodation. The accommodation was pretty average, I didn't have a power plug for most of my time there, and the kitchen was constantly dirty, but I spent very little time inside the actual hostel. Given that I would be in Ljubljana a few nights, I thought the most responsible thing I could do was make a big feed of pasta. So, I gathered the energy and headed to the grocery store. It didn't taste great but gave me 4 meals for 9 euros. It is also the only photo I have for this day as it was mostly just a travel day.Read more

  • Day 43

    Corfu airport

    August 16, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Today was the day that I would officially depart my friends and restart life as a solo traveller. I am just over two months into my trip, and I barely feel as though I have been solo travelling. I was with Jack throughout most of Italy and all of Croatia. And then I was on my own until the south of Montenegro, but since then, I've been with Lewis or Erin for the rest. I enjoyed my time with those guys, but the same thing that happened with Jack, there comes a time when you get excited about the freedom of solo travelling. Erin and I said our goodbyes as she got on the bus to Turkey, and I headed to the port to catch a ferry to corfu. It was quite sad, and as was the case with Lewis, she will be heading home soon, so it is unlikely I will see them again. Erin lives in Sydney, so not as far as Lewis, and such there remains a hope we cross paths at some point. Nonetheless, it had to happen at some point, and im sure I will keep in contact with both of them.

    The unfortunate part of the timing of my ferry meant that I was going to miss Matildas' next game in the World Cup and, as such, did not know the result until I reached Corfu. In the Balkans, I did not have data, but in Greece, I should, so I held on to the hope that my data would start working at some point on the ferry and i could watch the game - but it came too late. As we arrived and I received the internet, I learnt that Australia had lost 3 - 1 to England. It was quite sad as everyone in Australia had begun to follow this quite intently. Lewis even mentioned that the last game vs. France had greater viewership than that of the AFL final. Quite an astounding fact. Although this made me very sad, the show must go on, and I had a lot to do in Corfu in just one day.

    My day started by finding a nice little cafe for a feed to get me through the day. I heard Greece was expensive, so I expected this to be my only meal until tomorrow midday when I arrived at my next location. I have to be very tight in my budget at this point to ensure I have enough to get through until my car sells. But this feed was cheap and good enough to fuel me through the walking I had planned. I ate, dropped my bag off at a little store, and went on my way to explore. This essentially meant I would walk aimlessly around the town, only stopping when something peaked my interest. The whole town was adorable. The small roads that were filled with shops were so wholesome, and all the people were so friendly. The design and architecture of the town were incredible. It was clearly old, but you never felt unsafe, as is sometimes the case. It didn't have as much history as the rest of Greece would clearly have, but I enjoyed going to the old Fort and getting a bit of a history hit and then seeing Corfu from high up. Unfortunately, the sun made getting really good photos quite hard. It looked amazing from my eyes, regardless. After this, I had to begin to wander back to my bag and collect it before the store closed. But as I walked, I came across a traditional Corfu dish called Pastitsada. It was relatively cheap, about 9 euros, and I got tempted into trying the traditional food before I left. It was quite interesting. At first, the taste seemed rather bitter, but I grew accustomed to it quickly and enjoyed it in the end. Highly recommend. After this, it was time to collect my luggage and participate in what I consider, a backpackers must do item - sleep at an airport.

    Corfu accommodation is expensive, but the reality of the situation is that paying somewhere to sleep, to, then get up early and pay for a taxi to the airport seemed like too much work. It was good to save probably 100 euros, but most importantly, I was just keen to save the stress of getting up and getting a taxi without missing my flight. I am not a huge fan of flying, despite it being prevalent at my work. So, my original travel plan heavily reduced the amount of flying I would need to do. In fact, I was not supposed to catch a flight for 14 weeks, but that didn't end up going to plan. As such, I found myself a seat at the very entrance to the airport, where it was least busy, and waited it out until it quietened down. It was clear quite early that I was not the only one with this plan. At about 10pm, people had already spread themselves across seats with sleeping bags and eye masks. I respected it but wanted to wait until a bit later to occupy a full set of seats. That almost bit me in the ass as a lady, then laid down on my set of seats, and I thought I was going to have to sleep upright all night. I was sad. But eventually, space opened up next to her daughter, and she moved. As such, I made my move to occupy the seat to avoid such a situation. The next problem became very prevalent. I had to piss, but getting up risked my luggage being taken, but if I took my luggage, I would lose my spot. I battled the need for a good couple hours before I decided additional measures needed to be taken. It was about midnight and I could tell I would not sleep, so I asked a girl next to me (who had woken up breifly) to watch my stuff while I went to the bathroom, I took a sleeping pill and covered my head with a towel and bang. It was lights out. I slept way better than I expected under the circumstances and copped about 5 hours of solid sleep. Way better we than I ever thought possible, and I awoke just in time to check in my luggage. Thus, a major right of passage was completed for any backpacker - airport accommodation.
    Read more

  • Day 42

    Copy and Paste

    August 15, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It is quite comical how similar today and yesterday were. We relaxed and enjoyed our morning, with breakfast provided by the hotel. Until eventually, they offered to take us to the beach again. We obliged once more as we had to do something with our day, and the beach was the best option that wouldn't be too draining. Today we got to the beach earlier and it was a nicer day, but as a result we had to pay for the beach lounges. It was worth it, however, as we spent a lot of time there. In some form of protest, we decided we would bring our own drinks and snacks to the beach to recoup some of the money we spent on the lounge. This was a vodka concoction that Erin made, and some chips to keep us going through the day. We once again chilled here for a few hours until the sun began to set before we once again repositioned to the rockface to fully enjoy it. We then went and got sushi (it was that good) and had some cocktails before starting the long journey home. Like I said, the exact same day as yesterday. But I'm hardly complaining. It was relaxing and good to spend some time with Erin before we part ways tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 41

    Sarande Sunsets

    August 14, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today was equally as uneventful as yesterday, we checked out of our hotel and said our goodbyes to Lewis, who was heading toward Turkey. Given that I had been with him since Zabljak in Montenegro, it was quite sad to say goodbye, but these happen when you're travelling, and I'm sure we'll stay in contact. Although he's Australian, he is from Perth, so it is unlikely that we will cross paths again. It would only be a couple of days until Erin and I also part ways, but until then, we got an accommodation for a couple of nights in Sarande. Erin and I had become quite close during our travels, but she would also be heading towards Turkey in a couple days and I have to do my best to get back on track with my itinerary so that I can get through Slovenia, Northern Italy, Southern France, Spain and Portugal in about 6 weeks now. Although she tried to get me to join her in Turkey, it just doesn't make sense to do so as I will be there in a couple of months to do a tour. Once again, it is a rough part of travelling, meeting people, becoming close, and then eventually never seeing them again. But this is the way it is.

    Before we could check into our hotel we had to get a taxi to the accommodation, because we no longer had a car. This ended up being the biggest fuck around, and probably the closest we have been to getting scammed so far. We were quoted 30 euros to get into the hills, and we figured we'd do it (even though I was keen to walk a little first). The guy arrives, and we get in, but the traffic is so bad that we are barely moving. The taxi driver seemed stressed, so I said we could just pay part of the cost and get out so you can complete different drives, but he assured us that it was alright. After about half an hour, he ups the price due to the time it's taking, and we figured it was probably fair and didn't have much option at that point. Then, just as we get out of the city and out of the traffic, he says he can't go any further because his work day is finished. So, instead of driving another 10 minutes, he drops us off to walk it for 30 minutes. He then asked for the 40 euros and I argued that we haven't even arrived at our destination, so it isn't unfair to pay the whole price but he wasn't budging and we had to pay the full price. It was very annoying and unfortunate but these sorts of things happen while you travel. After said 30-minute walk in the midday heat, with our big bags, we arrived at our hotel, and the family was super lovely. They even said they would have picked us up if they knew we didn't have a car. We planned to do nothing the rest of the day, but then the family offered to drive us to the beach, and we figured it would be the easiest way to get down there now we don't have a car. We didn't want to miss our opportunity. This ended up being quite nice, and because the weather wasn't great, there weren't many people. This was especially good as it cleared up just as we arrived. We did little more than have some drinks by the beach and chill until the sun began to set. We then moved to the rockface that overlooks the water to fully enjoy the sunset - which was fantastic. This was great, and it was a nice way to end a pretty busy day.

    We then stuck around for some drinks and some food. We had gotten incredibly over shitty Albanian pasta, pizza, and burgers, so when we had the option for sushi, we had to try it. It was quite expensive, about 17 euros each, but we seriously needed something different. It actually was fantastic, too. Some of the best sushi I've ever eaten. I've been told Europe has shit Asian food, but this was my first time trying it, and it was great. Maybe it was just the fact it wasn't regular albanian food, but I enjoyed it a lot. After this and a couple more cocktails we had to head home but it was a huge walk up steep hills, and we were NOT going to get a taxi again, so we took a couple roadies and went on our way home, stopping for a drink wherever necessary. We eventually made it home and passed out instantly - we were exhausted.
    Read more

  • Day 40

    Road Trip Over

    August 13, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today was the last day that we would have the car, and so it was quite sad. We did, however, have one more night with the three of us before Lewis left us to head toward Turkey. After some minor fucking around, we managed to drop the car off, and head back to the hotel where Erin was waiting with all our bags. We then proceeded to do fuck all, watching netflix, calling our parents and taking naps. We had a big week of travelling, and now we had to recover for a few days (the next few logs may be boring). The only time we left the hotel was to get food before returning for sleep. There are no photos for today because nothing happened - just a photo of the Audi that was our rental car for the week.Read more

  • Day 39

    Blue Eye

    August 12, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We gave ourselves a well-deserved sleep in, but this was once again interrupted at about 9 am. However, instead of an annoying checkout we had to make, we were actually excited to get up. Today was the quarter finals of the women's world cup, and Australia was vsing France, the former champions. This was a high-energy, incredibly stressful match that had all three of us screaming as loud as we could, probably to the frustration of our neighbours. We were far too engaged with the game to care, however. It went all the way to penalties, and after an incredibly stressful and heart-wrenching shoot-out , Australia beat France and progressed. It was one of the longest and most intense shootouts I've ever witnessed, but boy, was I glad it was over. My heart could not continue to watch it.

    After this, we headed to one of my biggest bucket list items from this trip, and that's the Blue Eye near Sarande. I have heard amazing things about the beautifully clear water that springs from the earth. Unfortunately, when we arrived, we were met with a 2km walk, and in the heat we were experiencing, it was tough. But when we arrived, it was definitely worth it as the water was even more colourful and beautiful than I had imagined and seen in photos. We then learnt that you are not supposed to swim in the water, which was disappointing. There were plenty of people doing it, but we felt it took away from the appeal in many of the main areas, so we just found a quiet place where people couldn't see us, and jumped in there to experience the water. It's hard to describe the feeling of the water because it really just felt pristine to the point that you wanted to drink it. The water was also incredibly cold, which is good given that we had done quite a bit of walking before this to explore the area. But it once again took the breath out of you. It wasn't as cold as in Theth but cold enough to ensure I didn't stay in too long. The photos do a horrible job of painting a picture of the clarity of the water, as you need to be high enough above that you can see the colours on the bottom. Meaning, any photo taken from eye level turned out shit compared to how it really looked. I did get a few good ones but not as many as I would have liked. Not enough to pain a picture of the beauty. It was a great experience, and it was definitely something I'll remember forever. But it wasn't a massive area, and after a few hours, we were ready to move on. So we headed back to the car and drove to our accommodation in Sarande.

    When we arrived, we got very lost as we were in the hills of Sarande, and the roads were basically dirt and rock for the most part. When we pulled up to the location we thought we needed to be at, a man walked out, and we figured he was a good person to ask. He didn't speak a word of English but understood Villa Mehmeti (where we were staying). Without being able to speak to us, he just got in the car and began to direct us to the villa. We were very confused but trusted his judgement. He eventually got us there with hand gestures and grunts. When we got out we tried to offer him a lift to wherever he was going but it turns out he was coming to Villa Mehmeti, to catch up with his wife for a drink with the owners of the hotel. It was hilarious to listen to the exchange between the wife and man as he got out of our car. Even though we didn't speak Albanian, we understood the gist of the conversation. We then went to the shops and made ourselves a noodle dish that was cheap and decent enough to keep us going before heading to bed.
    Read more

  • Day 38

    Gjirokaster and Butrint

    August 11, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Today, we had to leave Ksamil and check in to our accommodation in Sarande. However, first, we wanted to visit the Roman ruins in Butrint. We expected this to be a small roman city with few ruins, but it ended up being a huge peninsula that had the full infrastructure of a large, well functioned roman city (200ha). It had baths, theatres, houses, basilicas, fortifications, and more - the only thing it seemed to miss was the aqueduct that existed there for a long time. This would have been very interesting to see, but unfortunately, it was no longer visible. The rest of the information they provided was really interesting. It went through the whole history of the site, with evidence of occupation dating back to 50,000 BC until the last known occupation in the 19th century AD. It highlighted the occupation of the Greeks from 800 BC until about 44 BC when the Romans began occupying the area. The Byzantine eventually took over again in the 9th century before eventually ceding control to the Venetians in the 14th century. The final occupants were the Ottomans before it was eventually abandoned a couple hundred years before its eventual rediscovery. The information pieces did a good job at uncovering how the area looked during these different periods and how the influence from so many different rulers impacted the stylistic design and architecture of the buildings. They showed the artefacts and archaeological finds discovered during its restoration and even have floor mural that is visible in its original location. There is a very large mural that is still present in the baptistery, yet this remains covered most years to ensure it can be preserved. We unfortunately could not see that, just the photos. It was once again hilarious to watch Lewis run around like an ADHD child, wrapping his head around the age and grandure of the site. The site as a whole was enthralling. By the time this was complete and we felt as though we had explored the whole site, it was early afternoon, and we realised we better get going if we wanted to see Gjirokaster too.

    We started the drive of about an hour and a half, and in no time, we had made it to Gjirokaster. As previously mentioned, the roads are far smoother to the south, so getting around is far less stressful and far faster, which is a blessing after some of the other drives we had completed. After a lunch feed, we began to wander around town to discover the unique architecture that is present in this place. The white houses that extend over the walkways, with wood trimmings, are truly a unique site for me in Europe. I know Berat, also in albania, has similar architecture, but for me, this was a first to witness. It really made you feel like you had gone back in time as the whole town matched this aesthetic. So, rather than walking into an old town within a city, this felt like we got out of the car in a completely different time period. Though we didn't have much time, so, we mostly stuck to the main areas for tourists. The next thing to see was the castle that overlooks the town atop the hill. This was also really cool because of the views from the top, giving complete 360-degree views of the town, and the unrestricted access to most of the areas within the castle. It once again helped with the immersion into the time travel feeling. The castle had some interesting information pieces about the castle, but also about the wildlife in the area, which was a good change.

    This has been one of my most challenging logs to summarise in just 20 photos, given how much we did. But I have done my best. This unfortunately ignores the amazing drive home we had. As it was sunset, and we were driving through the mountains, the way the mountaintops caught the sunlight, but the rest of the valley didn't, made it feel like we were in a painting. I managed to squeeze one photo in, but there are many more that highlight the beautiful drive through the albanian mountains. This made it a bit easier to stay awake for the drive home, but by the time we got to our accommodation in Sarande, we basically passed out.
    Read more

  • Day 37

    Ksamil

    August 10, 2023 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Because we had to hand the car back in Sarande, we decided to skip it for now and head further south to Ksamil. This would mean we could end the trip in Sarande and avoid a drive on that last day. We had a slow morning, as the hangovers accumulated from the previous days, but eventually began the long drive south. Given that we were tired and arrived late into Ksamil, we just went to find somewhere for a feed. This was, however, the first day in which Erin could really drink after finishing her antibiotics, and although we were hungover and tired, we figured it would be rude to not have a drink with her. We felt bad for how often she would be watching us get drunk, so it was only fair to have a few drinks with her. It gave us a chance to explore Ksmail by night, too. It was really cool, but all the really nice places were expensive, so we just ended up finding a good cocktail happy hour and once again just played cards. It was a nice night, but we were once again off to Sarande tomorrow and so had to be up early, and I was already lacking sleep. As such, we had a reasonably early night and prepared for a big day tomorrow.

    Given the long drive, we didn't get much opportunity to explore Ksamil but we had a lot planned for tomorrow.
    Read more