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RWC Cup France 2023
  • David and Jane Kirkpatrick
  • David and Jane Kirkpatrick

RWC Cup France 2023

We return to France 16 years after we last went there for a Rugby World Cup. Not sure what the rugby has in store but we intend to enjoy Burgundy, Beaujolais, The French Alps, Normandy and the Northern battlefields. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 7, 2023
    David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Liftoff!

    September 7, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We bought our game tickets over two years ago and there have been some big changes in our lives since then. However today we headed off to Paris via Singapore and London for six weeks of rugby and sightseeing in France - oh and the wine and cheese!Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Heathrow

    September 8, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Made to Heathrow - quick 2 hour stopover and then finally Paris. However did make a quick duty free bee line to a recommended shop by Judy Donoghue!

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Paris Day 1

    September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Arrived in Paris and linked up with our travelling companions Peter and Vanessa Collins.
    Walked down via Sacre Cour to Pigatelle to an Irish pub to watch the opening NZ vs France - however we decided to head back home and we went to a local cafe which was great - all French supporters, Saison on tap and very vocal.Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Game Day Paris

    September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Another scorcher today - temperatures have been in the mid 30s both days. Even so we ventured out - we had tickets to the Musee de L’Orangerie, the purpose built gallery for Monet’s huge lily garden paintings. En route we came across the huge RWC village set up at Place de Concorde - got some new merchandise - another RWC pin to add to my collection and hat and socks!
    Then a walk around the Eiffel Tower before heading home for a cold shower to cool down and catch the metro to Stade de France to play Georgia. A crowd of 75,700 packed the stadium and an impressive win by Australia - certainly some outstanding new young players coming through.
    Tomorrow we leave Paris and head to Burgundy for a week!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Paris to Burgundy

    September 11, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Picked up our car at Gare du Nord with Peter driving and me navigating and surprisingly everything went smoothly! Heading off to our base in Burgundy for a week at Chateau de Chaily - see the nighttime pic below. Very impressive, Enroute stopped at medieval village Samur en Siene - lovely stained glass in the church
    ,and the Abbe de Fontenane - built 1165! Very well preserved buildings - the picture of the roof was the dormitory for 200 monks and looks the hull of a boat upside down. Finished with a lovely outdoor dinner - simple fresh food - see my fig tart. We still can’t really believe we are overseas! But I’m getting used to it!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Dijon

    September 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We spent the day in Dijon, the capital of Burgundy - famous for wine, mustard, gingerbread and of course, boeuf bourguignon which we had for lunch in a little alleyway restaurant (it was the best I’ve ever tasted). A very rich and powerful duchy in 1500 - 1600 rivalling the King, there are numerous impressive buildings. The Notre Dame cathedral here boasts an impressive facade lined with gargoyles - apparently one fell off in the Middle Ages crushing to death a wealthy merchant on his wedding day! Hence they were removed and not reinstated until centuries later. On the side wall someone carved a small owl which has become the good luck symbol of Dijon - it’s face is rubbed off now by people hoping for some of the luck! So there is trail to follow called the Owl trail to see the important sights in the old centre marked by bronze owl markers on the pavements - very quaint. Also note the beautiful mosaic tile roofs on the cathedrals and the exquisite carved doors.
    We returned to our apartment in our quiet village on the grounds of Chateau Chailly with bottles of Chablis (Chardonnay) and Burgundy (Pinot noir - not the wish washy stuff we have but a robust Hunter Valley type red) and far too much local fromage (including the specialty of the region - washed rind soft cheese washed in local Kir alcohol - the smelly socks variety - superbe!).
    Not sure where we are off to today - a road trip through the French Comte countryside most likely.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    1

    Franche-Comte and Beaune

    September 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Two days dedicated to wine and fine dining. Yesterday we drove 150km to a small village called Pupillan in the hills of Franche-Comte (Free County) - this area borders on Switzerland and was an autonomous region in the Middle Ages settled by Gauls so the people still regard themselves as different to other French people! We drove via Dole the birthplace of Louis Pasteur and then Arbois where he worked and discovered his first vaccine which was for rabies. All beautiful little villages and lots of forests and agricultural farming. Anyway I had read of a restaurant in Pupillan (Michelin listed) Auberge D’Grapeliot that served local produce so we had a beautiful three course lunch including the local vin jaune (yellow wine) which is a wine that is fermented for six years in oak barrels and becomes a strong astringent aperitif - not bad but not something I’d bring home.
    Today we headed to Beaune - the wine capital of Burgundy. After the obligatory morning coffee and croissant we headed to the Caves (cellars) of Patriache et Fils - wine merchants on the same site since 1776. The building was an old convent which had cellars dating back to the 14th century - since then they have extended the cellars under the city of Beaune to now encompass 2 hectares of cellars and 5 kms of tunnels - with three million bottles of wine! Also they had beautiful modern sculptures scattered amongst the wine - great tour finished with a guided tasting of six wines - we learnt so much about the regions and specific grapes used - at the end we were lucky to have a tasting of a grand cru red (only 2% of production gets grand cru status in France). So we headed off with 8 bottles to our next Michelin hat lunch - just kept to two courses today - a veal tartare with smoked eel and raspberry tart with sage. We then waddled around the old streets for a while and then headed off home. So much more to see in Beaune that we will return another day.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Vezely and Golf Chateau de Chailly

    September 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Thursday: VEZELY. Most people have heard of the pilgrims way Camino de Santiago but there are many routes that originate in Europe that feed into the Pyrenees and then onto to Spain. One of these commences in VEZELY at the Basilique Ste-Madeleine in Burgundy. A massive former abbey church it sits atop a hilly outcrop that is visible for miles around as you approach - you enter a walled medieval village and wend your way up the narrow streets, past the pilgrims hostel, to the church. Built in 858, it became a place of pilgrimage in 882 when a relic of Mary Magdalene was sent from Provence - you can see the relic in the photo in the crypt - zoom in and see what you think - clavicle, ulna? Visitors of note in history include Richard the Lionheart and Thomas Beckett - to be standing in a place that legendary figures have been is a bit surreal.
    Friday: Golf Hotel Chateau du Chailly. This 12th century chateau has been refurbished to include a 18 hole golf course and we have been staying in a self contained apartment in the grounds. We played the course today which was challenging and enjoyable (because I won!) then a swim in the pool, jacuzzi and sauna. Finished the day with a Chefs table dinner with just us four in the cave (cellar) with a special menu from the chef - best meal yet - absolute stunning presentation, imagination and flavour - we all agreed one of the best meals we’ve ever had (and we’ve had a few with Peter and Vanessa) - from the pate emulsion in a pastry biscuit topped with local smoked duck to the Brest chicken roulade filled with confit chicken thigh to an aniseed meringue it was outstanding.
    Another couple of wonderful sunny days in Burgundy - one more to go before we head further south to St Etienne and more Rugby. Quite noticeable all the French around here are very rugby aware and enthusiastic - a great atmosphere.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Beaune take 2

    September 16, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌩️ 24 °C

    We returned to Beaune today for the Saturday market day - 150 stalls of produce and handicrafts - seventh heaven for Jane! As expected amazing wheels of cheeses, colourful olives and tapenades, fresh oysters etc etc!
    The other reason was to visit the jewel in the crown of Beaune - the Hotel-Dieu which was established in the mid 15th C by a generous chancellor of Beaune to provide free medical care for the poor of the city, run by nuns and doctors and supported by grants from the aristocracy - an incredible socialist initiative far ahead of its time. It took paying rich patients as well to supplement it’s income. The patients were housed in one great hall and you can see the beds lined along the walls. The stunning roofs of multi coloured tiles are famous as well. What’s more amazing is that it remained the general hospital of Beaune (albeit with obvious changes in medical and nursing techniques) until 1972!
    We returned home via the village of Chateauneuf which had a castle dating from the 11th C and can be seen on the hill like a castle from a film set. This is also on the pilgrims trail leading to Spain.
    Last day in Burgundy - off to St Etienne tomorrow.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    I love the gargoyles on the churches
    Golden StonesWe are in the sliding doors to the left - the main house is through the big gates (and the pool)SnailsFrogs legsVeal liver

    Beaujolais

    September 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We put the disappointment of St Etienne behind us yesterday and set off to the Beaujolais region - our base for the next four days. We entered from the southern end visiting a few hillside villages in the area of “Golden Stones” - a reference to the deep golden colour of the local rock which you will see in the photos. Being Monday most shops are shut in small villages but we lucked on an boulangerie/patisserie in Oingt that had just brought out a fresh tray of eclairs of all flavours - I had the pistachio while Vanessa had coffee.
    We then moved to the northern end - the region is 55 km in length, 11 to 14 kms wide and 44,000 acres of vineyards! It is 99% Gamay grapes to make the relative light Beaujolais wines that are drunk young - not a problem for us! We are staying at Chateau Bonnet in a renovated section of the main house which is a 16th C Alderman’s lodge - great to have space to spread out and a washing machine! This is a working winery where they just finished harvesting and are now processing the grapes. Over the last two days we have seen the workers picking grapes on the steep hillsides by hand and putting the grapes into large open packs on their backs which they then walk over to a open top steel container behind a tractor and go up a ladder on the side and just lean over and tip the grapes in. We have encountered numerous tractors taking their full trailers along streets and narrow roads to the coops and wineries.
    Today we drove up to a small mount winding our way amongst acres of vines and pickers to a panoramic viewpoint over the valley - on a clear day you can see Mt Blanc apparently.
    We were unsuccessful dropping into a few restaurants and things were looking grim until we lucked onto a lovely Auberge set amongst a vineyard which was a new fine dining establishment. Entrees of snail,mushroom and fig tartlet for me and frog’s leg with ginger and sorrel emulsion for Jane - may as well while we are here! The main was salmon for Jane with a green tea gel and sauce while I had veal liver sautéed with baby beets and mash - scrumptious! Then eclairs again for dessert.
    Obviously wine tasting is the major activity here and we are doing our best - we even have a stocked cellar in our apartment of the Chateau wines!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Flat start to the day
    Another beautiful rose window in Macon churchChateau CormatinVertiginous staircaseThis painting supposedly inspired Matisse's Les Danse - not sure what the women is doing!Finska comp!

    Beaujolais Day 3

    September 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We had a rather deflating start to the day when our host Julien pointed out the flat rear tyre on our car to us in the morning - particularly when we found the empty spare tyre compartment! However from the time we rang the Sixt help line to having the car towed to garage, tyre repaired and back to us it was only 2 1/2 hours - a dream run.
    So we had a late start to Macon which is north of Beaujolais which is a provincial capital - nothing too interesting so we moved on further north to Chateau Cormatin - built in 1658 on the foundations of an 11th C castle. It has the grandest Louis XIII apartments remaining in France. Surrounded by a moat and gardens with topiary and box hedge mazes. I will let the pictures tell the story. Finished off the day with a game of Finska before heading off soon to the local village restaurant.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Julien explaining viticulture.
    Fermenting tanksThe last old French oak casks 4500L.New French oak casks cellarTastingLa Roche de SolutreSign - what sign?Top of the rock

    Chateau Bonnet and Roche de Solutre

    September 21, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We have been staying at Chateau Bonnet vineyard - initially built in 1630 by Claude Bonnet, an alderman of the city of Macon as a holiday house. The Perrachon family - vignerons since 1830 - bought it in 1950 and now the third generation of the family run it. Julien the youngest son has been our host and we are lucky that they just picked the grapes last week and so are macerating the red wines in the vats now. Today we spent 2 1/2 hours with Julien going through the vineyards and then the winery being educated in the vinification process - his sister Charlotte is the current winemaker and she spent time at Brockenwood in the Hunter Valley. Afterwards we had the obligatory tasting of every wine they make and I have a new respect for Beaujolais (Gamay) wine - they do make a very small parcel of Chardonnay as well which is delicious.
    Then after lunch we ventured out to La Roche de Solutre - a rocky outcrop which provides a panoramic view of the region. The weather was very windy with rain squalls so quite bracing to say the least. Also I decided to use an alternative route via a gate that said in French “only for fit walkers” - unfortunately my French is crap and it actually said “reserved access for rock climbers”! So when Pete and I had scrambled up to the base of a cliff face with the track leading to a rocky ravine we retreated back through the brambles and found our way back onto the spur of the mount and back on the main track to the summit. As you will see and hear the wind was gusting but the view was worth it.
    On the way down we had a great view of the grapepickers harvesting Chardonnay grapes - in the video you will see there are three men with large white packs on their backs that the pickers put the grapes in and then they walk down to the trailers, walk up a ladder and tip the grapes in.
    Settling in now with cheese and pate and wines from the estate - tomorrow we move onto Lyon.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    The red door behind Jane leads into our lodge.
    Typical narrow cobblestone streets - no cars!Sunset in Beaujolais after a stormThis tractor rides over the top of the vines.Wooden pitchforks are common.Breton lobster.

    Lyon

    September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌩️ 19 °C

    We left Beaujolais and drove to Lyon today. We booked rooms in an old lodge in the Vieux Lyon - the old city. The house we are in was built between 1500-1600 and still has original walls and timber ceilings. Up until thirty or so years ago this was the “bad” area of Lyon - home to gangsters and down and outs. So much so the Mayor wanted to tear it down for a motorway but the Lyonnaise (inhabitants of Lyon) protested and it became a UNESCO heritage site. Now it is cleaned up and full bouchons ( Lyon bistros) for which it is famous - needless to say we are booked in one tonight! Lyon was also the centre for silk weaving in the Middle Ages and it is still a major industry here - lots of tempting shops for Jane!
    We just took the furnicular up atop the big hill above the old city to a magnificent basilica but thunderstorms have rolled in so we have retreated home until dinner - Bonsoir.
    I haven’t taken many pictures today so have added a few random ones of interest from last week.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Fountain Bartholdi - same bloke who did the Statue of Liberty
    Part of a traboule - inner courtyardStreet artMosaic street art aka civic repair job!Not sur I'd eat this mushroom!Massive sized paintings.Reflection of building facade in this modern shopping mall.Food glorious food.Mini cakes of meringue layers with cream between and coated in praline and dark chocolate - sublime!Flower bouquet sculpture.The steps in our lodge - fun lugging bags up and down!

    Lyon Game Day!

    September 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The two days there has been a steadily increasing number of Wallaby and Welsh supporters in town - plus the odd bunch of kilt wearing Scots, All Blacks and Poms.
    We did a walking trip which provided a lot of interesting historical and current facts:
    The city has 400 “traboules” which are corridors built through houses, connecting common courtyards, that allows people to move quickly up and down the city without going along the streets in the open. This was initially down by the Romans (Lyon is on the site of Lugdunum the Roman capital of Gaul empire) to allow easy access from the high hills to the Rivers Saone and Rhone. They were continued in the Middle Ages by the canuts - the silk weavers - to allow the moving of their expensive silks without getting exposed to the elements. They remain to this day and were of great use during WWII for the resistance to move secretly around the city whilst under Nazi rule. Most are now private - such as the entrance to our lodge - but there are public ones you can enter.
    The city has a lot of street art - in particular small sculptures on buildings around the place. The artists are celebrities here - one started doing tile mosaics in holes in building walls or pavements - the city now pays him to do it!
    Every street seems to have two or three patisseries! I’ve never seen or eaten so many amazing treats in my life.
    The Art Museum here has a fine collection of antiquities plus of course paintings from all eras (including a Brett Whiteley) - you’ll see in the pictures the scale of some the old canvases.
    So now it’s do or die for the Wallabies - nothing but a win is sufficient so the tension is building. The French have been openly hostile to the Wallabies in both matches so far - booing us and cheering our opposition. I think a lot of it is due to Eddie Jones who apparently insulted the French when he was England’s coach - or maybe it was Scott Morrison and the submarine debacle! And of course any England fans hate him as well so we are up against it!
    Anyway we are hoping for a turnaround tonight - stay tuned!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler

    Lyon Disaster

    September 25, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    What can I say - except I felt very sorry for this young inexperienced team Eddie Jones threw to the wolves - he will have done enormous damage to their confidence in the future. Leaving players like Foley and Hooper behind was inexplicable.
    At least the Welsh fans were decent afterwards - most were shocked at the way we folded and all said why did we take Eddie back!
    So looks like I’m getting a Fiji jumper for the quarterfinals!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Chambery old village street
    Chambery alleywayTrompe-l'œil windowView from Col de la Chambotte of Lac de BourgetChefs in Paul Bocuse Irma RestuarantMoonlight over Lac AnnecyCanals in AnnecyLe Palais de I'Île - a medieval castle that has been a prison, a mint and a royal residenceMountain peaks rising to 7,700 ft above the lake - Sleeping Beauty castle to the leftLakeside Chateau1

    Annecy

    September 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We left Lyon heading to the French Alps. We drove via Chambery, an historical city with medieval architecture from the Savoy rulers that ruled as far as Turin in Italy - it has been in and out of French rule until finally in 1860 it was ceded to France. We then travelled across to Le Bourget-du-Lac, the biggest Alpine lake in France and passed Aix-Des-Bains where the Romans first built thermal baths - the town is still a spa resort. We drove up a switchback road to Col de la Chambotte - at 650m you can see all the lake below.
    Then onto to Annecy. It was Peter and Vanessa’s wedding anniversary so we had booked into a Paul Becuse restaurant by the water - it didn’t disappoint.
    Annecy is called the Venice of the Alps because it is built at the end of the lake that feeds into the River Thiou and has built canals through the old city - the canals have flower windowboxes hung on the fences all along them so very pretty. It was market day in the old city so always good to try out the cheeses and saucissons available for tasting plus finally got a real latte coffee! All the time weaving in and out of narrow cobblestone streets with overhanging wooden and stone lintels, and interconnecting alleyways leading to footbridges over the canals.
    We finished the day with a boat cruise of the lake - lots of little settlements along the shores - a fairytale chateau that allegedly inspired Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty - jagged granite mountain ridges up air with paragliders galore - we counted over 80 in the air!
    Then a classic Savoire dish - fondue! But with white wine, garlic and onion here plus we added mushrooms. A stroll back home among the spot lit building - tomorrow Mt Blanc!
    P.S. In many cities and towns there are buildings with “fake” windows - that is windows that have been bricked up and painted over to look like real windows in a trompe-l'œil fashion. That is because in France ( and England and Scotland) from the 1600’s until 1926 there was a tax based on how many windows you had! So to avoid tax people bricked up the windows but to avoid looking ugly they painted facsimile windows over them! I have put a picture of a particularly cute one we saw.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    The incredible Mont Blanc vista
    You see the last bit of railway line halfway down on the left side - Mt B is the hump on the horizonClose up showing the rfeuge on the ridgeline with the dome of Mt B behind to the right.This is as close as we got as renovations are being done on the final bit - see the cog wheel teeth.Chamonix in the valley below usView from our bedroom - arrow shows Mt Blanc.

    Annecy to Chamonix

    September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We drove from Annecy today heading into the French Alps - the horizon changing into towering valley sides of high peaks topped with snow. Not far from Chamonix we sidetracked to a small village called St-Gervais-Des -Bains to catch the Tramway du Mount Blanc - France’s highest train. A 45 minute ride on a cog wheel tram to a height of 2115m near the glacier flowing down from Mount Blanc - a steep, winding and beautiful trip starting in pine forests before rising out into open alpine terrain with awe inspiring views of the mountains. Mount Blanc itself is a rather subdued dome shaped peak compared with those below it but nonetheless a titan of a mountain.
    Of interest is the dome shaped climbers refuge on the ridge below the final summit called Refuge de Gouter at 3835m! (the peak is 4810m) - It is ovoid in shape, distinguished by its stainless steel coating and has four levels. Unbelievable to think they constructed that up there. You can see it in the picture on the ridge to the left in some of the pictures.
    We settled into our chalet apartment here in Chamonix afterwards and our view is the other side of Mount Blanc - tomorrow we head up the cable car to do some hiking.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Sunrise over Mont Blanc massif
    Southern side of valley - main skiing regionAugille du Midi - the needle - our destination tomorrowChamonix golf courseGlace de MerBack home reviewing our walking route

    Chamonix Day 1

    September 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Chamonix is a ski resort town in a valley surrounded by high peaks (including Mount Blanc). We headed up on the cable car to Auguille du Midi ( augille is a sharp pinnacle of rock in a mountain range and this place is full of them - more on that tomorrow) getting off at the halfway point at 2317m to commence the Grand Balcon Nord walk (grand northern balcony) which goes for 7km traversing the northern side of the valley crossing old glacial moraine and mountain streams with a never ending jagged soaring peaks above you. The end point was the Mer de Glacé - river of ice - France’s longest glacier - now only 7km in length but once was double that.
    The pictures tell the story.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Unsupported cable section to the top from 2317m to 3842m
    In winter you ski around this drop off down to ChamonixThe needle from below - note viewing windows in the side about halfway upMont Blanc in the background - we've had great weatherSteps up to one viewing terraceThe needle - note perspex box on top right!Us the the "void"The before shot!2Rock climbersView to Switzerland!The needle with the cable car station in the background

    Chamonix Day 2

    September 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today we went to Augille de Midi (needle at midday) - a cable car ride to a solitary rock pinnacle that rises to 3842m. It still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, from 1,035 to 3,842 m - as you can imagine when you step out you feel a bit hypoxic - because you are! It’s hard to describe because you arrive on a block of rock and then cross a bridge across a void into a tunnel bored into the mountain top. Inside are various tunnels leading to viewing platforms and then an elevator which takes you to the top. From there you can line up to “step into the void” - a perspex box built out over a 800m drop!
    The vista looks out over the entire Mount Blanc massif of the Alps stretching from Switzerland to Italy. In winter you can ski from here all the way to the bottom of the valley!
    There were rock climbers and paraskiers ( skiers using parachutes to help navigate the higher rocky areas) out on the rocks and the slopes.
    Again just look at the pictures.    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Mont Blanc tunnel
    La ThuilePilgrimage pass with statue of St Bernard who built a hospice here a thousand years ago.One of the smaller mountain passesHilltop fortress built by the Kingdom of Sardinia.Beautiful St Bernard dogEntrance to BrianconNothing like profittoroles!!Typical switchback road up a pass.

    Alpine drive

    September 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The last three days have been basically driving from A to B to fulfill our time table. However this first day was spectacular as we drove along the alpine way between ( and into) Italy and France. Leaving Chamonix we headed out among the towering massif peaks and then into the 11.7 km Mont Blanc tunnel - and a 51 Euro toll! Sydney drivers take note! This popped us out into the Aosta valley in Italy. A quick espresso in La Thuile and we headed back into France via more tolls to Val D’Isere - world renowned ski resort and I can see why, So many runs on every hill and mountain for miles as we started up switchback by switchback to the highest sealed mountain pass in Europe - Col L’Iseran at 2770m - hair raising drive but spectacular views. One more detour into Italy - and another 51 Euro tunnel toll ( about $70 AUD) and drove onto our final destination Briancon - another walled medival town - where we spent the night before bravely moving onto our final Rugby match - TBC!Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    Our B & B
    Norman footsoldierGreat gargoyles at the cathedralDramatic pulpit1St Eric de Clapton1A light lunch of mussels and frites!

    St Etienne to Bayeux

    October 3, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Yesterday we left St Etienne to drive to Lyon to drop our travelling companions Peter and Vanessa off at the railway as they are now heading home - sad to see them go after three great weeks.
    Then we had 720 km drive to Bayeux and we had to be at our B & B by 7pm and a car crash on the motorway to Lyon had put us back an hour plus we had to change cars so didn’t leave Lyon until 10:30. Luckily it was nearly all motorway so cruise control on 130 km/hr (the speed limit) and made it with 30 minutes to spare - after another motorway car crash to had us diverted for a while.
    Absolutely lovely old house with only two other guest rooms and central to all the sights and eateries in town by 10 minutes walk.
    Headed straight to the famous Bayeux tapestry first thing to beat the crowds. Quite an amazing experience to see such an ancient work of artistry in good condition - it is actually embroidery and the colours are still vibrant. At 70 metres long it is housed in a room that allows one way traffic to view the story of Harold and William - so detailed and depicts everyday life as well as royalty and battles. Not allowed to take pictures so you’ll just have to look online!
    Then a walk around the old town and then to another museum for the other important war story around here - D Day and the Battle for Normandy 1944. We haven’t noticed many American tourists up till now but Bayeux is mainly all Americans - this area is to them what the Northern front is to Aussies I suppose. The museum is very detailed and well set out to keep your interest.
    Tomorrow we will head off to landing beaches and hopefully some Normandy oysters!    Read more

  • David and Jane KirkpatrickRWC Cup France 2023Traveler
    1
    Gun 150mm at Longues-sur-MerLayout of gun batteryOmaha beach memorialOmaha beach - now a beautiful site.60th anniversary memorialBomb craters at Pointe du HocCliffs scaled by The RangersBomb crater landscapeThe guns could swivel almost 180 degreesPhotograph of RAF bombing raid on the Pointe before DDayNormandy oysters!They must have crime problem - someone stole the toilet doors!

    Normandy DDay American (West) Beaches

    October 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Bayeux is perfectly positioned between the two American landing beaches to the west - Utah and Omaha (very original) and the three eastern British ( Gold and Sword) and Canadian (Juno) beaches.
    We decided to head west today and our first stop was the only still intact German gun battery at Longues-sur-Mer. There is a command post and four reinforced pill boxes with 150mm long range artillery piece. Set back about 500m from the cliffs they had a range of 19.5 kms! However due to intense bombing by air and then sea they didn’t have much impact on DDay (6th June 1944) and they were taken by British troops on the 7th June. Awesome and horrific all at the same time - you find yourself admiring the engineering and then you remember what they were made for - death and destruction.
    Next stop was Omaha Beach - the scene of terrible American casualties on the first day - a stretch of nearly 7km of open flat beach facing a small plateau of land before hills. The Germans had razed all the village buildings along the seaside and fortified it all with machine gun nests, cannon emplacements, barbed wire and mines, and three metre wide anti tank trenches. The first and second wave of infantry were cut to pieces mostly in the water and on the beach - the third wave finally breached the defences and turned the tide. By nightfall they had suffered 2400 deaths but had landed 34000 troops. I realised that this is the American equivalent to our Galliopi in terms of what it means to them - only they had Eisenhower and Montgomery in charge compared to us having Churchill!
    Lastly - because you have to be selective as there are so many sites and museums - we went to a site of unprecedented daring and courage . La Pointe du Hoc is a high promontory between Omaha and Utah beaches that had six 150mm artillery pieces that could reach both of the American landing beaches and the landing craft. So it was aerial bombed five times in the lead up - see archival photo - and the Germans expected a land attack from the Allies. However an elite US group - The Rangers - trained on the Isle of Man to come in by boat, launch rocket propelled grappling hooks with rope and rope ladders onto the 35m cliffs and scale up and surprise attack. Great plan except the ropes got soaked by sea water and were too heavy to launch from the boats so had to be unloaded at the base and launched by which time the Germans saw them - so they are climbing up whilst be shot at. Amazingly they scaled the cliffs in ten minutes and then two days of combat ensured before they overran the German post - only 150m from the cliff! 135 Rangers died.
    After all this we needed to relax a bit so we headed north to a harbour town to have a late lunch of some legendary Normandy oysters - magnificent and washed down with local cider which again is Normandy specialty.
    Sorry for the essay but the whole experience was very profound and sad because once again we are witnessing the same in Ukraine because of another megalomaniac.    Read more

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