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Rail USA 2025
  • Glynice and Stuart Kilpatrick

Rail USA 2025

A 35-day adventure by Glynice and Stuart Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 26, 2025
    Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Trains to Southampton

    August 26 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    First train departs on time. Within an hour the first outfit is wrecked, courtesy of user error with a coffee cup. I’m sure she will master it eventually.

    Needed most of the hour and a half I had allowed for between trains to arrive late, walk to Euston station, get the Tube to Waterloo via Oxford Circus, buy more supplies, find the train and get on it.

    Dropped the bags off at our hotel and headed for the nearest Wetherspoons for a couple of swift half’s and then a very nice Indian meal. Highlight was the complementary Lemoncelo for madam after she had chatted up the manager. Not sure that will work in the US but you can bet she will be giving it a go.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    11

    Leaving Southampton

    August 27 in England ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Spent the morning in a small Titanic museum. Not many laughs. Admired a replica of a second class cabin and hoped that ours would be a little nicer.

    Checked out of our hotel. Long walk dragging our cases to the port. Caught our first glimpse of the Queen Mary 2 through a fence. Only took 15 mins between arrival at the port to getting on board. Into our Stateroom which is what they call a cabin these days. It does seem to have improved from Titanic days. Will be checking out the lifeboats shortly.

    We stocked up on some travel essentials on our way to the ship.

    Speaking of essentials we started by casting our eye over tonight’s dinner menu and checking the size of the dining room. Enjoyed dinner even though the portion size was fairly modest. With 3 large meals a day plus afternoon tea even we couldn’t cope with large helpings anyway.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    First full day at sea

    August 28, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Force 9 winds overnight (or 50mph to you landlubbers), so a bit of movement but not enough to put us off the first full stack of pancakes of the trip for breakfast. The waiter did seem a little bemused at the quantity of maple syrup I asked him to pour over them. Nothing so gross on board as having to pour your own maple syrup.

    Then a wander on deck and check of the lifeboats. 22 of them, all pretty large.

    The day’s itinerary needed close examination so we didn’t miss anything. In the morning there are usually 2 or 3 talks in one of the theatres, lasting about 3/4 of an hour each, which is what they must reckon is our attention span or possibly how long the average wrinkly can control his or her bladder.

    Early lunch to fit it an afternoon talk. Useful time to digest the lunch and "rest the eyelids" as it were. Afternoon spent exploring the 13 decks, finishing off with an hour “power-walking” laps of the ship. Apparently 3 laps is 1.1 miles so each lap takes about 6 minutes.

    Then scrubbed up for one of their formal nights, a Black and White Ball. I suspect the last time I wore a tie, except for a wedding or funeral, was at a similar occasion on this ship 6 years ago. Had a bit of trouble persuading the wine waiter that instead of a $50 bottle of wine we were going to stick to a $7.50 pint of lager for the lady and a glass of water for myself.

    Finished the day with another wander along the deck.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Settling into the routine

    August 29, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Settling into life at sea. An 8am breakfast is quite manageable when we get on extra hour at night as we do for 5 out of the 7 days.

    This mornings talk was on Command at Sea. Included much talk of mutinies and collisions. Mmmm.

    We are eating in the posh restaurant every time. Food is a bit better, we tend to eat slower and portions are more sensible. In a buffet I am controlled by my greedy eyes and always overfill my plate.

    A 3D film on travelling into Space gave a good excuse for the odd glasses.
    More exploring round afterwards but some outside areas still closed because of the strong winds.

    Another hour’s power walking while Glyn attended the Captain’s drinks, naturally accepting my glass of bubbly as well as her own. After all, they were paid for. Sort of. As if she needed any excuse.

    Post dinner’s show was a short concert by Dana Monique, described as a Southern Soul Diva. Impressive voice and equally impressive backside. No photos are allowed during the shows so you just get the empty stage to set the scene.
    Followed by a folk duo, a quick snifter back in our cabin and then bed.

    Quite worn out.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Same again.

    August 30, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Disturbed night with our balcony door rattling all night. Still force 9 winds.

    No problem with the full breakfast though, as you would expect.

    Talk on “Thrive beyond 55” which is pretty much everyone on board. Only heard half of it as I had to leave to transfer our washing from machine to tumble-dryer. Considered poor form to leave it in the machine for long as there aren’t that many of them. Most of what I gleaned from the talk shouldn’t be too hard for me. Take exercise, don’t smoke, keep weight under control, minimum alcohol, at least 30 different plant varieties per week (not so much), get plenty of sleep (oh, yes), plenty of social interaction (not sure if playing golf once a week is enough).

    Another 3D film after lunch, this time on dinosaurs. Not really my thing but it did let me catch up on that life-enhancing sleep stuff.

    Then afternoon tea, purely to increase my plant variety intake. No way cucumber or cherries were going to be consumed any other way. Had to go 40 mins early to get a front row table so that we could check out the dancing. Wasn’t tempted. Some of these folk looked like they knew what they were doing. Could have been carnage if we had blundered about.

    Walk even more essential than usual before a late dinner, which had a knock on effect of making us miss the early show. No way could we stay up long enough for the second performance. Got some traditional New Orleans jazz, and more folk.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Busy day on board

    August 31, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    No extra hour today so opted for an 8.45 breakfast. Followed by 3 talks, the first of which was on Brain Fitness. Seems to be important for the brain’s health to keep on learning. Not good enough simply to continue to do something you can do, like Sudoku or knitting, you really need to be learning something new. So I vowed to learn to play the piano. Never touched the damn thing before, never played anything, no idea about music, tone deaf, have short stubby fingers but at least there is one available in the house.

    Next we had a talk by a Laura Tobin on weather forecasting which apparently she does for ITV. Then a talk on the history of Central Park.

    A quick late lunch followed by a talk on the Life & Works of L S Lowry. They do get a bit of variety in these things.

    Then a drinks reception where the captain unveiled a new lithograph by L S Lowry that the art gallery on board was hoping to flog. G quickly necked both our glasses and we left before any unveiling could happen.

    Back to the cabin and signed up for a day’s internet so that I could post a couple of penguins before I got hopelessly behind.

    Usual walk round then dinner followed by a show by a Liverpool comedian, John Martin. Briefly went to the Swing Band Night, then a bar where they were just finishing a bingo night. What a bizarre activity. Managed 2 songs from the following act before we headed for bed.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Much the same

    September 1, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Usual breakfast. A couple of laps of the boat afterwards, posted a couple of penguins, lunchtime talk on Shackleton and the Endurance. Not sure of the relevance with this trip but interesting enough. Sneaky double restaurant for lunch. Started with the posh one but the choice of pud not exciting us so went up to the buffet afterwards. Felt a little decadent.

    The afternoon’s walk is getting busier as the weather improves.

    Another formal dinner tonight with a Masquerade Ball. Masks just required at the dance rather than the dinner which is just as well because some of the masks would have prevented any eating. As usual we just watched the dancing for a short time then left. I have a fairly short attention span for these things.

    Finished off with the usual folk duo. They seem to be on pretty much every night somewhere on the boat.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Last day at sea

    September 2, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    I don’t often see a sunrise so I thought I should take a photo to mark the occasion.

    Posted a couple of photos of inside the ship. Remarkably quiet sometimes.

    Interesting talk on the history of Grand Central Terminus. We must try to visit while in NY. It is free after all. Then a talk entitled "Learn Faster, Remember More!" Not trying to be funny but I think I left half-way through to sort the washing. Possibly should have stayed.

    My glamourous assistant is indicating our cabin in this painting.

    You can all try a bit of “Where’s Wally” with the photo of one of the pools.

    The stage is set for the final show and this was a bizarre one. A double act with the comedian from a previous night followed by what was billed as a multi-instrumentalist. Turned out he played a sort of xylophone and pan pipes. Not together. That would have been impressive. It was a bit like the worst Fringe show you have ever been to. At least we didn’t have to pay for it.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Arrive in New York

    September 3 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Had to take full advantage of what is likely to be our best breakfast of the trip even though it was at the most ridiculous time of 7am. Joined the queue to disembark at 8.20 and got through immigration by 9.20. Pretty much the only queuing we had to do on the whole voyage.

    Took the free (for us) ferry from Brooklyn to Manhattan then subway to our hotel.

    Been suffering the last day or so with what might be a fairly mild bout of COVID. Tried hard not to cough during immigration as didn’t want to get turned back.

    First stop after dropping our bags off was to a local thrift shop to get rid of my dinner suit, shirt and shoes. The fact that there was a local thrift, or charity, shop nearby gives a clue as to how upmarket our hotel was. Still cost £180 per night for one of the most run down hotels we have ever enjoyed.

    Lunch in Chelsea Market then walked along The High Line, a converted rail track. I thought Keira might enjoy the photo of the rather large pigeon that we spotted on our walk.

    Passed Penn station where our train to Philadelphia leaves from on Friday.

    Took the subway over to Brooklyn and walked back over the well known bridge. Walked down past Wall St to catch the (free) Staten Island ferry there and back. By then I was knackered so we didn’t bother with the planned trip up the One World Trade Centre. Back to the hotel before out for some Greek Souvlaki and Baklava. Very nice but I couldn’t eat very much.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    New York in a day

    September 4 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today’s breakfast would have been hard to swallow even without feeling dire. A miserable meal.

    Inspired by the talks on board we headed off to Central Park for some free sightseeing. Took the subway to the north end and wandered back through it. Really is the nicest part of New York. Grabbed our first hot dog and clam chowder of the trip. Probably won’t be the last.

    Then madam wanted to visit Tiffany’s.

    When we entered we asked the worthy where we could find eternity rings as G has taken a fancy to one. Whipped upstairs and seated in a blink of an eye with the sales girl sweet-talking us and asking what we would like to drink. H Samuel it isn’t. Shown some rings that looked pretty cheap and cheerful. She had a pretty good guess as to our budget and these were definitely out of the bottom drawer. Managed to get out before spending any cash so job done.

    Then on to Grand Central Terminus, a truly fabulous station. Even better as someone was handing out chilled cans of Heineken 0.0% as a promotion. Don’t mind if we do.

    Next on to Macy’s for a look round. Big but empty. Don’t know how they keep it going.

    On our way back to our hotel we passed the rather more famous, and undoubtedly dearer, Chelsea Hotel of Leonard Cohen fame.

    Couple of pieces of pizza for tea. No appetite.

    And hurrah, hurrah I am finally up to date with these footprints. Hallelujah, to continue the Leonard Cohen connection.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    1

    The Streets of Philadelphia

    September 5 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Made a little more use of the breakfast than yesterday. Packed and checked out. Short walk to the rail station via the thrift shop to drop off some books.

    Strange system for boarding the train. We were sitting in the waiting room until they announced the platform. Apparently some categories would get early boarding, including the geriatric, but then, almost immediately, they announced boarding for everyone. Bit chaotic.

    Anyway there were plenty of seats on what was our first Amtrak train. Surprisingly small windows but at least the seats were properly spaced beside the windows unlike UK disasters. Only 1.5 hours to Philadelphia. Passed uneventfully.

    Took the subway to within a couple of hundred yards of our hotel. Definitely an upgrade to NY.

    Managed an early check in then out to find some lunch. Found a wee cheesesteak place. A local delicacy consisting of a baguette stuffed with small pieces of steak plus cheese, onions etc. Surprisingly good.

    Walked along to the local visitor centre, queued up to view the Liberty Bell and then had a pre-booked tour of Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were signed.

    Later walked to Chinatown for some dumplings, followed by ice cream.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Tramping the Streets

    September 6 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Some random photos from the day :-

    our hotel,

    the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, almost next door,

    Elfreth's Alley, continuously occupied since 1713, the oldest such street in the USA,

    a replica of the first US flag. The home of the original seamstress is a museum here, which we didn’t visit. There have been 26 subsequent versions as the number of stars keep having to be increased to match the number of states.

    The Love Statue, nearly 50 years old, one of the sights of the city, no idea how many selfies have been taken in front of it in that time. We had to queue up to get it without anyone in front.

    G requested a visit to the Mutter Museum being an attraction dedicated to rare, odd and disturbing medical conditions, ie any number of skulls, skeletons, foetuses, joints, huge gallstones etc. Luckily photos weren’t allowed inside the museum or this footprint would have taken a very nasty turn. We could have gone to the city’s premier cultural institution, the Philadelphia Museum of Art for only a few dollars more and I wouldn’t have the memory of a 40 lb uterine growth, or a syphillic penis to keep me from sleeping.

    We did still reach the Art Museum, too late to enter but just got G to pose with a local hero. Apparently the man appears in Rocky I and II climbing the stairs outside the museum. We duly queued to have our turn at a never-to-be-repeated photo opportunity, and then climbed the stairs. Slowly.

    G had been beginning to fret about the absence of drink since landfall so when we chanced upon an Irish pub it wasn’t to be passed by. Softened up by a Guinness we decided to go for dinner to a nearby pub/restaurant. Ordered 2 battered sausage and some loaded fries with a pint of lager for the lady. I know how to give a girl a good time.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    11

    Next stop - Washington DC

    September 7 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Philadelphia Train Station is slightly more impressive than the Waverley. A couple of hours took us from one wet city to a sunny one.

    Regardless of who is in residence The White House is quite bonny.

    As I’m beginning to feel better my appetite is improving. Still sharing a single portion though. Today we had a half rack of ribs with potato salad in the Museum of African Americans. An impressive building, with fairly depressing exhibits, one of many fabulous (& free) Smithsonian Museums lining the National Mall.

    The Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial and the Mall were all looking fine.

    Equally impressive is our enormous apartment. No wonder Americans sometimes get a bit iffy about the size of European hotels.

    A Thai restaurant for 2 soups and a mixed starter finished off the day very nicely.

    And I seem to have been able to wean myself off a paracetamol habit I was beginning to develop. Would be nice for both of us if I could get through the night without coughing intermittently.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Historic Washington

    September 8 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Our accommodation is getting fancier. This one is on the same street as the White House, just 9 blocks along.

    First stop today (after G had bought some jewellery) was the Natural History Museum. One of the exhibits was the Hope Diamond which, luckily, did not appear to be for sale or G might have tried to continue spending. I say luckily not just because being 45 carats and one of the largest blue diamonds in the world might have put it outside our holiday budget but also it has a reputation for bringing bad luck to its owner. Better not bother then.

    The museum’s cafe’s lunch offering was not so impressive and didn’t justify a photo. Best forgotten.

    Next stop was the Museum of American History. By luck we managed to get on a 75 minute whirlwind tour of the highlights. These things can be good or bad. This chap was very good. For at least a few days I now know more about the War of Independence, the War of 1812 (between the US and UK) - which I had never heard of at all - and the Civil War. Will probably return tomorrow if we have time.

    Lovely walk back afterwards past some sights, the US Capitol, Jefferson Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial and the Washington Monument.

    Dinner was a takeaway from a local Chinese in our apartment accompanied by very reasonable New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

    Another train tomorrow.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Sleeper to Atlanta

    September 9 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Checked out but left the bags and walked over to Arlington Cemetery to catch the famous Iwa Jima Memorial. Lots of white tombstones as expected. Seen plenty of them in France. But unlike the French ones these were simply for any Ex-servicemen and women, plus their partners and sometimes their children, no matter when or how they died. Not quite so poignant then.

    Metro back to The Mall and to a Museum of Modern Art. Not usually our thing but they had a Banksy on display. A little surreal to have to go to Washington to see one but that’s life. They were also showing the Basquiat that inspired him.

    Grabbed another shot of the Capitol as we passed as we were a little closer than before.

    Back to the Museum of American History and started with lunch. Cheap, sort of cheerful, and quick.

    One of the exhibits was the Julia Child’s kitchen used in her programs. Had never heard of her before the Julia & Julie film.

    Collected bags and caught a bus to the Union Station. Usual grand affair.

    Our first sleeper train. The main windows are used when sitting, and when in the bottom bunk. The top row are for looking out from the top bunk. We had a very small cabin, called a "Roomette", with bunk beds. The meal provided was a sort of airline meal. Not great but filled a gap.

    Not sure if any sleep will be had. Time will tell.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Shaken and stirred

    September 10 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Certainly shaken after a shoogly night spent sleeping somewhat fitfully. The highlight of course was the expected nocturnal visit requiring getting dressed while lying horizontally, descending from the top bunk, nipping along the corridor and return. Luckily only once was required. Reminded me of camping in my wee tent but being shaken throughout added a little something. No photos taken, thank goodness.

    I did notice that some of the other ‘roomettes’ were equipped with their own cludgie handily placed beside the chair/bed. Not sure if they were an upgrade to ours or vice versa.

    For breakfast I had chosen the continental while G chose the omelette. Big mistake. Microwave reheating does not improve said omelette. Binned and my breakfast shared.

    8.30 arrival in a surprisingly small station in the sticks. Took an hour and a half to get the 4 miles to the hotel via a bus, metro, a further bus and a walk. Able to check in which was a real bonus. Showered and then out.

    Visited Martin Luther King Jr’s National Park. Included a film, a talk, a visit to his church where he preached and where his funeral was held, his birthplace and lots of clips of his speeches. Man that guy was a an orator. Incredible to think that all happened in my lifetime.

    Back to the hotel to chill out in our 10th floor room. Not bothering with dinner as lunch was quite late. Another one of those Philly cheesesteaks. Shared, I’m not made of money.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    1

    More history

    September 11 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Sunrise always fascinates. Probably because I don’t see many. This one was from our room.

    Then down for breakfast. Not sure if I have seen such a public dress code for breakfast. Shame the food didn’t live up to the same standard.

    Walk, metro, bus and walk to get to the Atlanta History Centre, a bit out of town.

    The crowning glory was a recently restored cyclorama showing the Battle of Atlanta. I also liked the 1856 locomotive Texas, but then I would, I suppose.

    The museum cafe did a nice line in soups, a choice of 6, G chose a couple , together with a rather bizarre broccoli and tofu salad.

    Continued with a visit to Swan House, just under a 100 years old but designed to look much older.

    Pizza for dinner. Not a bad effort.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    3

    Half-way

    September 12 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    17 days completed and 17 days to go after today.

    Checked out of our room at 7.35am for an hour trip to the rail station in order to be the recommended 30 minutes early for our 13 hour trip to New Orleans. As mentioned before the station was somewhat smaller than recent efforts. Not too surprising given that there seemed to be only 2 trains a day. One going south, the other north. By contrast the nearby Atlanta Hartsfield airport is apparently the world’s busiest airport.

    One of the reasons why the train takes 13 hours for less than 600 miles is it waits about 40 minutes at stations like Atlanta. The other reason is it just doesn’t go very fast, usually between 40 and 60mph, which means it is much easier to see things as we pass. Trouble is on this route there isn’t very much to see other than trees, sometimes swamp and trees.

    Arrived 30 mins early. An interesting journey across New Orleans on foot and bus in the dark. Only slightly concerning.

    Arrived at our apartment, back out to get vital provisions and G soon established with a Belgian “Blue Moon” pack of 6. Result.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    City of New Orleans part 1

    September 13 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    One of my bucket list items for this trip was a cruise on the Mississippi on board one of the paddle steamboats. Today was the day.

    Started with a trip on one of the streetcars.

    After much delay and queuing and handing over wads of money we got on board. Delighted to see it was called The “City of New Orleans” although not quite the same as the famous train. A few of these chug up and down for a couple of hours a time full of tourists. They stick a jazz band on to set the scene. And the thing is actually driven by the big wheel. All grand.

    A cafe for lunch with local dishes of jambalaya and shrimp chowder, followed by a not-so-local dod of a rather nice carrot cake.

    Walked back to the hotel via Bourbon Street, a rather touristy and very loud affair. Full of half-drunk hen parties taking advantage of the warm weather to wear not a lot. Felt it was unwise to take photos.

    Dinner was another shared pizza, this time with a Greek salad in a vain attempt to introduce something remotely healthy.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Parting of the ways

    September 14 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After nearly 3 weeks joined at the hip we went our separate ways this morning. G headed for the next-door jazz museum followed by a local market.

    I took my own private (well it was early Sunday morning) streetcar to the National WW11 Museum. A random choice, I didn’t even know it existed, but it had been strongly recommended by an American couple we had chatted to way back on the QM2. It was a quite astonishing museum, quite the most comprehensive display I have seen on WW11, albeit from a US point of view.

    Back to meet up at our hotel then out for a late lunch. Shared a burger and fries but needed our own cakes & coffees. Not been convinced by iced coffee before but when it is as hot as it is here I might be converted.

    This afternoon’s museum was a little strange. One complete floor covered the disastrous Hurricane Katrina and the other the slightly more photogenic Mardi Gras including the spectacular costumes and the odd Lego building.

    Speaking of silly outfits a local park was hosting a wedding photoshoot and the choice of suit/trainer combo for the participants caught my eye. Is this a thing now and I am just showing my age again?

    Enjoyed chilling out listening to a busker, then passed Tennessee Williams house, numbered 632 and a half, on our way to Preservation Hall to hear some jazz. Pretty good it was too, although they didn’t allow any photos during the show.

    Did some wandering about the local streets before going back to finish our stack of Blue Moons instead of any food.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    1

    City of New Orleans part 2

    September 15 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Up prompt to pack and check out of our very comfortable apartment.

    The balcony where our Blue Moons were consumed was a little quieter in the morning.

    Walked into town to a nice cafe for breakfast. One of the dishes included “grits” which I had seen on menus and thought for some reason was fried potatoes of some kind. Really not. Turns out it is a sort of porridge made with ground sweetcorn rather than oatmeal. Tastes of corn. Interesting but not to be repeated. Ever.

    The museum we hoped to visit was closed on Mondays despite the sign outside clearly saying open Sunday to Saturday. Made do with the cathedral (oldest in the US) which was very pretty. And I have been in a few.

    Walked back to the hotel to get the bags. Seemed to require calling in to the French Market for some vital clothes purchasing. Not for me as there seems to be a complete absence of Rohan shops over here.

    Now faced with a 3 mile journey to the rail station with the cases in the middle of the day. Bit too sweaty to walk so needed 2 streetcars and a bus. Faffy but cheap. You can get a 24 hour pass for the over 65s for $0.80. The grumpy driver insisted on seeing documentary evidence. At first I was pleased that she thought I might be cheating but I later twigged that she asked everyone regardless of obvious senility.

    Good job we got to the station early as they started boarding 30 mins early. A full train but after a while we got seats in the observation car. A lovely way to travel, until it got dark. Food on board was dire.

    Arrived an hour late at 11.20pm. The station itself was shut and it looked like we were the only folk getting off and walking. Luckily our hotel was only a couple of hundred yards away.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    We boarded the Greyhound

    September 16 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our room didn’t look any better in the morning than the previous night. I suspect the warehouse look might be trendy but if so it was wasted on us.

    Breakfast in the Arcade Diner, oldest restaurant in Memphis, as used by Elvis, apparently. Having tried grits yesterday G went for another traditional dish, biscuits and gravy. Just as unsuccessful. Biscuits would be fine as scones with a dod of butter and jam but here they are served with fried eggs & sausages and are covered with a sort of lumpy white sauce. Gravy it certainly isn’t. And not to be repeated. Looking at the menu again it isn’t easy to avoid grits or biscuits & gravy. Some dishes have both, doesn’t bear thinking about.

    We then had 2 hours to catch the Greyhound to Nashville from the bus station which was about 6 miles away. Checked on line. A half mile walk to catch a bus which took 40 minutes. Nae problem. Did the walk which took us to a suburban street with no sign of a bus stop. Mmm. No panic. Had plenty of time to walk to the previous stop which we hoped would be more obvious. A very friendly girl in a car stopped and asked us if we were lost. She didn’t know anything about a bus but offered to take us to the local bus station where we would be able to get lots of buses to the Greyhound station. Went with her but it took some time and this station was in the wrong direction. When we got there and asked it turned out that there was only one bus, it had left, the next one was in an hour, and would be too late for our Greyhound. Bother. Never mind, just have to get a taxi. Not so easy. Taxis here don’t take cash or Apple Pay, or credit cards. You have to set up an app, register a payment method, get it approved etc. No taxi. Eventually a security guard took pity on a couple of down and out pensioners and persuaded a supervisor for the bus company to give us a lift to the Greyhound station. Awfy nice of them both. Arrived with 45 minutes to spare which was as well because they started boarding 30 minutes before departure. Reasonable 5 hour bus trip although I do much prefer a train.

    Pleasant mile walk through downtown Nashville to our hotel.

    Receptionist suggested a local blues club for food, live music and drink. Slight hiccup as the bouncer wouldn’t let us in without ID. I assume because they check absolutely everyone rather than we look under 25 or 21 or whatever the limit is here. Had to go back to the hotel to collect driving licences. Worth it though.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    Grand Old Opry

    September 17 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Just two destinations today. The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum and the Grand Old Opry.

    Called in first at the fanciest Tourist Info building ever.

    As you would expect the museum featured Dolly Parton’ outfits which highlighted her preposterous figure. More impressive is the charity work she has done worldwide, including her Imagination Library.

    Bit surprised that Elvis’s gold Cadillac wasn’t actually covered in gold but it was still pretty flashy, especially inside.

    Didn’t recognise many in the Hall of Fame but Johnny and Dolly were there. Big section in the Museum on someone we had never heard of, Lainey Wilson.

    Briefly back to the hotel, via the Blues Bar from last night.

    Caught a local bus out to East Nashville for the Grand Old Opry. Had a sort of Chinese dinner in a shopping mall near the theatre. Plenty of time to wander round the theatre before the show. Our seats were front row, circle, but way to one side. Much closer to the stage than some and reasonably priced, partly because I had booked over 6 months in advance, before it had been announced who was playing.

    Turned out to be a special night, they were inducting a new member, name of Steve Earle, a singer-songwriter. Also on the bill were Emmylou Harris and Vince Gill. Pretty good night.

    Had to run to catch the hourly bus back to town afterwards. As a reward for more running than either of us have done for some time we called in to the blues bar again for some light refreshment. Which then meant that this footprint was delayed. My apologies but G is never going to let a penguin get in the way of a Blue Moon.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler

    The Man in Black

    September 18 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Started the day with a great breakfast. As all good days should start. A large, fresh blueberry pancake with extra blueberry compote, unlimited maple syrup, crispy bacon, a couple of sunny-side up eggs and a jug of coffee.

    Not a lot to do today. Mostly visit the Johnny Cash museum. Bit of a hero of mine.

    Had some time to kill afterwards and felt the need for something remotely healthy so walked for an hour to get some fresh fruit to have on the bus.

    Then pulled the cases for a mile or so to get to the bus station from the hotel. Meant to be a 4 hour trip and was only a bit late but the grumpy driver refused to let us use our phones as he said the glare on the windscreen distracted him so it felt a long time sitting in the dark.

    Then we were faced with trying to get another bus to downtown at 9.30pm. We knew from before that that would not be trivial. Ended up taking an hour and a half to cover about 6 or 7 miles as the crow flies. And then a half mile walk. Didn’t feel up to writing a footprint after we checked in. Apologies again.    Read more

  • Glynice and Stuart KilpatrickRail USA 2025Traveler
    1

    Graceland

    September 19 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    One of the highlights of the trip, a visit to Graceland. But first we had to get there. Only 8 miles away by car but over 2 hours by bus. How? Easy really. The buses are only one per hour and you need to change buses half way. Almost as quick to walk.

    Graceland was very good. Supposedly it is the second most visited house in the US. Nothing like the ridiculous European palaces but interesting to see what loads of money bought you in the 50s, 60s and 70s. Astounding amount of trivia. Receipts for everything, endless letters, birth certificate, school reports, photos, film clips, outfits, cars, bikes (including his first bike), planes. They were all there. Impressive Racquetball court that Elvis had built. He played here the morning of the day he died.

    The only remarkable thing about our lunch of hot dog & fries was how well G's top matched the seating

    On the way back we passed Sun Studios where a lot of the early records by Elvis, Cash, Roy Orbison were made.

    Out for one of our first proper dinners, shared charcuterie followed by a shared rack of ribs. Excellent.

    Walked back along Beale Street. For some reason you weren’t allowed to take your guns with you.    Read more

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