Day 19: Carrion a Terradillos

This morning I managed to figure out how to set an alarm on my watch. Not that it mattered much, as pretty much my entire albergue had evacuated by 5.00 in the morning. I have to say, I awoke with a slightly grumpy disposition and I was feeling less than warm about my fellow humans. I walked out into the cold of the morning at 5.45, looking back for a small candlelight the nuns had promised to light as they prayed for the pilgrims. There it was, and onwards I went.

The day ahead would be a challenge, with 17km of gravel sendas without any towns, stops or shade.

As I left the town, I saw a small cafe open and ran inside. Delighted that something was open this early, I had a coffee and was out of the town by 6.00. I walked the first 10km alone, and then stopped when I spotted a caravan selling coffee (!) and I was delighted to have a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. It was here that I met my German walking companion for the day, whose name I can’t remember (it was very different phonetically to anything I know). We would walk the rest of the day together. I learned he works for Facebook in Frankfurt, used to rap when he was younger and writes fantasy novels. He also just bought his first apartment and was walking the Camino to clear his mind and start a new chapter.

He was walking with a slight limp, and he was using a long stick as a pole. I slowed my pace significantly to walk with him, but I was glad for the company. The rest of the day was completely flat and across the barren meseta. My friend struggled, but I felt relatively ok. The later the day went on the hotter it got, and I was glad to reach my bed for the day. Sadly, he did not reserve ahead and was turned away. I feel bad about this as I write this, as I so admire his spontaneity - but I find myself booking ahead anyway. Am I missing the point slightly? I hope to meet him again on the route, as we had much in common! But, and I am once again alone and glad for the break.

There is absolutely nothing to this two horse town, so I shower and do some laundry. I then run into Jim, who has made it all this way today - despite the blisters. The albergue is small and there is no shop in this town, so we sit down to lunch together. He is such easy company, and he offers to buy my lunch. I absolutely refuse, and I get his instead.

I end up going for dinner with Jim too! There is nothing to do in this town. We talk about his career in the police force and his work as an independent investigator. I am already stuffed, but what is there to do!

Today I covered 27km, tomorrow another 25km!

See you in the morning!Read more