• Mash and Malice
Sep – Nov 2016

Wings & Shakes

Petualangan 82-sehari oleh Mash and Malice Baca selengkapnya
  • Awal trip
    8 September 2016

    Day 1 - Bye Bye Britain!

    8 September 2016, Inggris ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    And so here we are. The beginning of 90 days in the US. The beginning of a new life abroad. The beginning of the rest of my life with Alice. So before I begin, a goodbye. Farewell Britain, England, the UK, whatever you are. I will miss you greatly. Quick, someone, pass me a tissue!Baca selengkapnya

  • (Day 1 cont.) Vegas Baby!

    8 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    We've arrived. And we're knackered. Business class was a nice treat for us and my legs are grateful. I always wanted to fly in a 747 and we managed to get seats on the top row. Food was great and I was pleased not to have to think about strategic positioning when jostling to get off. On arrival, the border guard was extremely serious and blunt. Obviously the entertainment is on the strip and I wasn't expecting a comedy routine but I was taken aback by his demeanour and I suddenly felt really nervous for no reason. He kept asking if I was going to work in the US and I wasn't sure how to stress 'no I will not' without sounding rude. We got there in the end.

    Arriving at the hotel the receptionist could not have been more friendly. Within a minute we had gone from Middle Earth to Jersey Shore via the hotel's swimming pool and amenities. A rest was definitely needed now.
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  • Progress Map - Nevada

    8 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Before we left Alice bought a map of the USA with each state available to scratch off. So as we enter (or before we leave) each state I'll post a photo of our progress across them.

  • (Day 1 cont.) Love at the Mirage

    8 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 31 °C

    The rest didn't involve sleep that, with hindsight was brave! We decided to hit the the strip and it is everything I expected it to be and more. A total assault on the senses in every sense and I loved it. We worked our way to the Mirage to pick up tickets for a show which we had planned to see before we left. The Cirque Du Soleil were performing their own take on classic Beatles hits called 'Love'. The only thing was it didn't start till 9:30pm and with the time difference it was more like 3:30am. We took our time with dinner at 'LVB' and as this blog is called Wings and Shakes, I had my first Buffalo wings since being here. Not bad, only seven, not too much sauce and they were of good size. A decent start. Alice had what they called a 'BBC' (oh how we laughed) which was basically a chicken burger ala buffalo wings and was also well received. We then decided to go to Venice, or is that the Venetian, walking along paths and bridges inspired by the city. The gaudiness of it was not the most American thing I experienced... it was the elevators on all the bridges themselves! Brilliant. Delirium had kicked in by now and if it wasn't for the flashing lights at every eyeline, numerous glasses of coke, and something spectacular on every corner we would have both just collapsed and slept on a bench somewhere. We made it to 9:30pm and the show itself was fantastic. It was also perfect for what was needed; each song played to a totally different set and type of performance involving little story or concentration. Highly recommended and it has ensured that the Beatles will be on in the car tomorrow. By the time we got back to the hotel we had hit the 24hr mark of being awake. A great start to the holiday. Tomorrow we hit the road.

    Song of the Day:
    John Denver - Leaving on a Jet Plane
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  • Day 2 - Leaving Las Vegas

    9 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We awoke refreshed and having "suffered" yesterday by staying awake till the evening, hopefully jet lag has been banished. We'll see! We attempted to get a Las Vegas Breakfast Buffet but time had conspired against us and so that is now on the to do list for our return visit. We headed back to the airport to collect the car. We hoped we would be given a choice of cars and that is what happened and yet, choice in involves a decision, and having a row of cars of different makes and sizes in front of us brought on a mini panic of choosing the right one for the journey. Luckily I didn't have internet access as it would have taken a lot longer! We had a look in a few and went with a Nissan Sentra. It looked nice at least. With Tom Tom plugged in and 2 minutes of figuring out how it starts we were off. Interstate 15 took us out of the city and within an hour straight into traffic by Baker. I enjoyed the open road while it lasted. The slow traffic though did allow a greater time to take in the barrenness of the scenery in these parts of Nevada and California. I felt like I wanted to get back on my horse from Red Dead Redemption and have a wander around. It was very relaxing. The landscape changed the nearer we got to the coast although by now it was getting dark. Our first full day of driving was done.

    Song of the Day:
    2Pac - California Love
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  • Day 3 - Rosebud!

    10 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We reached the Pacific coast last night and stayed at the 'Days Inn' in San Simeon. After a good night's sleep we headed out early to see the main local attraction, 'Hearst Castle'. As we were told on numerous occasions during the tour it was actually referred to as 'The Ranch at San Simeon'. The castle is the lasting legacy of a William Randolph Hearst and is a unique blend of American opulence from the early twentieth century and European decadence from the centuries before that one. For the movie buffs out there, Rosebud is a reference to the movie 'Citizen Kane' in which the castle 'Xanadu' and the main protagonist are inspired by both The Ranch and Hearst's life. Alice and I were on the ground floor tour and thoroughly enjoyed the house and the surrounding gardens. It was during our visit that we were introduced to two new words of the American-English dicionary:

    Fictionary - The person who said this on the tour of the castle, I'm guessing, meant fictional but I actually quite like this new word and totally know what he meant.

    Portapotty - We have learnt since being in California that they are in the fifth year of a drought and so portaloos (as we say in the UK) seem to be an appropriate convenience for some public amenities. Someone in the queue referred to them as a portapotty that when you think about it is about right.

    After the castle, we were on Highway 1 heading north.
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  • (Day 3 cont.) Highway 1-der!

    10 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Pacific Coast Highway is amazing. Being familiar with the unique scenery of Northern Spain and having seen the spectacular views that New Zealand's mountain ranges have to offer, this route is packed with breathtaking views of mountainsides blended with the Pacific Sea. There was a mist aound the coast that obscured some of the view but luckily apart fom the lack of direct sunshine visibility was good. Our destination for today was Monterey, a stopover on the way to San Francisco. Once we arrived we unpacked and headed straight to the harbour area. We had no expectations and were pleasantly surprised by the main high street and the Italian festival that was taking place near the harbour with a live band and market stalls. It was a Saturday night and the town and tourists were out in force. We learnt walking around that this was the earliest town established by the Spanish in California. A nice dinner was finished off with beers from a bar from a local brewery. An enjoyable evening rounded off a memorable day.

    Song of the Day:
    The Beatles - The Long and Winding Road
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  • Day 4 - A Mission and A Prison

    11 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We left the comfortablish 'Comfort Inn' early morning and headed straight for San Francisco. The scenery on Highway 1 from here was not as dramatic as yesterday but there were still beautiful little pockets. There was the cycling stage of an Iron Man taking place on either side of the road which was both impressive for its endurance and annoying when taking photos.

    Luckily our accommodation was just off the highway once we reached San Francisco and we didn't have to go anywhere near the centre. We dropped the car off there and ventured into the area we were staying in, Mission District. There is an abundance of taquerias and local breweries on the main throughfare here, Mission Street. On first reflection the area feels like Dalston in London with a Mexican twist. We headed to the T-Mobile shop as our first essential purchase was a WiFi hotspot so that we were near an internet connection at all times. Phew!

    After a quick rest we headed out again, taking the subway this time. The subway was just how I imagined an American subway to be, just the right side of sinister and depressing. I blame movies from the 70s and 80s when the only reason to feature a subway scene was to involve crime or stress loneliness. The incredibly soulful singing by a blind homeless person by the ticket machines didn't help. We managed to go the wrong way on the subway, classic tourist mistake, but we got to our destination with plenty of time to spare. We were to go on a night tour of Alcatraz!

    The approach to the island involved a mini tour round the island before docking. The surrounding mist added to the atmosphere and I managed to get my first glimpse of the bridges that connect San Franciso. Although the Golden Gate Bridge grabs the headlines, the Bay Bridge is just as imposing due to its length. I can't wait to see more of them whilst we're here. Anyway, back to the prison. There was a large group of us following a tour guide but as we entered the main block we were each given individual audio guides which was a clever way of slowly filtering people through the prison. The various famous episodes that took place were explained in detail by inmates and guards who were present in the prison when it was active. The escape attempt and armed siege that happened here were brought to life by focusing on a particular cell that involved the inmate in question or the event. Towards the end we were led outside which by now was dark and the vista of the city and the bridges all lit up was worth the night tour alone. A powerful image of opportunity and fun within sight. I was glad I was heading back to the mainland.

    What better way to celebrate our freedom and liberty then by eating burger and fries! Alice and I had heard nothing but good things about 'In and Out Burger'. It's a fast food burger, it was cheap and it was OK. Alice saw that people were having the 'Animal Fries' which I think is the main attraction. She'll try and get that before we leave California. With bellies full it was time for bed.

    Song of the Day:
    Scott McKenzie - If You're Going To San Francisco
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  • Day 5 - Football!!!

    12 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We started the day at a recommended coffee shop called Sight Glass. The coffee was good and the atmosphere was like most independent places. But there was no time to dawdle and soak it up. Our aim for the morning was to get a ride on the famous San Francisco cable car. However, by the time we reached downtown the queue was huge and we decided to give it a miss for today. So instead we walked up and down the route the car would have taken. Seeing the hills of the city and walking them are two very different things. By the time we reached the area called North Beach, lunch was definitely needed. We found a cafe, Pat's Cafe, which served good looking home made meals. As I'm going to try as many different 'all American' meals as possible I went for the Corned Beef Hash. I had little idea as to what I was ordering and when it came out I was certain Corned Beef didn't look like that, but it was really tasty and a hearty meal for the day ahead.

    We then went down to the harbour where there is a unique museum come arcade warehouse called 'The Musée Mécanique'. It's a really cool collection of very old penny machines and the beginnings of interactive entertainment I suppose. Alice beat me on a (clearly broken) driving game where her driving was considered 'fair' and mine needed 'more practice'. There was also a 'handshaking game' where you shake the hand, or rather squeeze, the hand of Abraham Lincoln and he gives you a rating. Alice's was considered 'mild' whilst mine was 'sweet'. Thanks Abe. Rather more quarters were spent on other games and then we decided to leave for the 'big' game.

    We were off to see the 49ers. They were playing the LA Rams in the first game of the season. And that's about the extent of my knowledge of American Football. We left relatively early as it was going to take at least two hours to get there from the harbour. A tram and two trains were needed. Both trains were absolutely packed with fans heading to the game. In the seats in front of Alice and I on the first train there were two excited fans heading to the game making plans for a 'boy's weekend' away. It went something like this:

    It's a chill thing.
    Not a party thing?
    Yeah more chill thing.
    I was thinking boat thing.

    And this thing went on for 90 mins. Once we reached the stadium it was heaving. Everyone who worked there was incredibly polite as we were ushered in and there was light joking between the 49ers' and Ram's fans. First port of call was the Franks stand. With a jumbo frankfurter in one hand and a beer in the other Alice and I felt the part. Then suddenly the mood changed when the announcer let everyone know that there was to be a silence for the victims of 9/11 followed by the national anthem. After the silence, which was very well observed, there was an imposing and emotional fan near to us who yelled out 'stand up, stand up'. Alice and I were luckily already standing and we weren't quite sure who he was shouting out. With his baseball cap over his heart he was really in the moment. With mustard still dribbling down my chin I was for some strange reason caught up too and bang on cue at the end of the national anthem two fighter jets flew over head with ear bursting noise and fireworks erupted everywhere. It was truly spectacular in every sense. We hadn't even gotten to our seats by this point and we were still in the 'Pepsi Fan Zone'. I read after the game that some of the players for the 49ers knelt on one knee during the national anthem in support of the black lives matter movement. I'm guessing that is who the fan was shouting at but who knows.

    The 49ers were rank outsiders before the game and they ended up winning by 28-0. I was told that the game was sold out. To be honest I don't know how you would know that being there as nobody seems to stay seated for longer than 30 minutes. It does go on for about 3 hours mind. There are numerous adverts on the big screens during plays with various offers such as 'if 49ers win, Papa John's has 49% off everything tomorrow'. Offers and rewards are handed out like confetti. It was during a reward announcement that I found out that 'Jaxson' and 'Shreesh' are actual names.

    The hammering of a local rival ensured there was a good atmosphere after the game. At no time did this spill into anything other than sheer excitement. Really good entertainment all round. Now, we just have to get two trains and then an uber and we're home!

    Song of the Day:
    Radiohead - Palo Alto (we passed it on the train)
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  • Day 6 - Golden Delicious

    13 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Since being on the West Coast and in particular San Francisco we have had mainly warm and misty days with the sun breaking through occasionally. Today was different and we had some decent California sunshine. So with the sunshine upon us what better way to take in the most glorious symbol of this city then by riding across its 1.3 mile span. Today's ultimate destination was the Golden Gate Bridge. First however, we wanted to head to an area we touched on yesterday, North Beach, and that was so we could visit the mecca of the Beatnik Generation of the 50s and 60s here in San Francisco.

    The City Lights Bookstore was at the epicentre of this movement and was the first all paperback bookstore in America when it opened on 1953. Alice and I had to buy a book whilst here and so we chose 'California - A History'. In paperback of course.

    At this point Alice and I were torn as to whether we would walk up the tower for an epic view of the city or hire bikes to go to the Golden Gate Bridge. Both involved effort and it was hot. Only one would win. We decided on the bikes. And I'm glad we did.

    The owner of the bike store was an eccentric German who was very entertaining. With maps attached to the handlebars we were away. The closer you get to the bridge the better it looks. Every angle requires stopping and taking a photo. There is also a mini sandy beach on the way that was totally unexpected. This city keeps throwing out nice surprises. On reaching the bridge and surmounting various hills to get there, the ride along it was thrilling. Once we reached the other side of the bridge we spun the bikes around and rode back leisurely. If we would have walked the distance to the bridge and across it, it would have taken a long time, if we had driven, it would have been over too soon. A bicycle journey it seems is the best way to take in the bridge and I would recommend it without a doubt. Two hours well spent.

    Time for food. Since being on the West Coast we had seen Clam Chowder advertised everywhere. I wasn't sure what it was or how it would taste before coming to the US but back in Monterey I had tried a sampler and it was awesome. We thought we'd wait until we got to San Francisco. So we went to the aptly named 'Chowder Hut' and we both got the speciality. It's basically a creamy fish soup in a sourdough bread bowl. Very good and quite cheap too. We started to walk back and right outside the bicycle hire place there was a pickup point for the cable car, the opposite end to where we wanted to get on to it yesterday. After yesterday's disappointment at not getting on it we decided to wait out the queue as we had nothing else planned. Within no time we were on the car. Once the driver decided to go we were off and we were hanging on as the car flew through the city. It was good fun and the car picked up quite a lot of pace, particularly downhill. With another tourist attraction done, there was time for a little look in a shopping centre and then we headed home.

    Song of the Day:
    Queen - Bicycle Race
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  • Day 7 - Strikes and Hippies

    14 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    There was a change of accomodation for tonight which was more downtown and we got there early as Alice read that parking was at a premium. Luckily we were able to drop off the car before we checked in and that gave us plenty of time to get to the 'ball' game.

    This time baseball. America's sporting pastime has lost its mantle as the nation's favourite sport, being supplanted by football. I wouldn't say it out loud whilst here though as it appeared sold out. Considering the game started at 12:45pm and it was a Wednesday, who goes to these games? Well clearly tourists for one and Alice and I weren't the only ones. The AT&T Stadium is the home of the San Francisco Giants and is central making it a lot easier to get to than the football. It actually faces out to the Bay and when we got to our seats it was a spectacular vista. The sun was really strong and we both realised we didn't have any sun cream. After a few innings, and an uncontroversial national anthem, Alice and I headed to get some food, suncream and myself a hat. Being baseball I had to get a baseball cap! I can see why everyone has one at these games when the weather is this good.

    It was also food time. Alice went for the nachos and I went for another frank. A pretty special 'Johnsonville Sheboygan Bratwurst' no less. Fully loaded with onions and sauerkraut we found out afterwards that it is one of the best meals available there. I concurred.

    Back in our seats Alice went through the rules with me as I had no idea. Even though I'd seen it enough times on TV (shout out to JSTV!) I never really gave it enough attention. Sitting there watching the teams rattle through the innings it was a lot quicker than I realised and a lot more fun. At certain innings songs would be played. For example a scene from the Blues Brothers movie was shown on the big screen with nearly everyone joining in and singing along with the words that were also lit up 'shake it shake it shake it baby!'. At the seventh inning a song is played and everyone, and I mean everyone, joined in, 'take me out to the ball game'. And my favourite was towards the end and with the home team losing 3-1 the song that played, which I'm guessing is due to them losing, was 'don't stop believing' with the camera zooming in on various people singing their hearts out. Very funny.

    We walked back to our motel and then had a think about what to do next. We were near to Haight-Ashbury which is an area that is synonymous with the counter-culture of San Francisco. It was here in the 60s that the Hippy movement flourished and in the Golden Gate Park there is Hippie Hill. The archive footage of the Summer of Love mainly comes from here and I had to see it. It was a nice hill with a few alternatives and homeless people milling about. I read that the park is safe but there had been infamous issues between park visitors and the homeless people here in the past. As the sun was setting we made our way out. There was a quick visit to Ameoba which is a huge independent record shop that also has historic ties to the area.

    It was now dinnertime and we just happened to be next to a restaurant called Cha Cha Cha and the menu said it served Caribbean tapas. Intrigued, we wondered in and ordered various tapas such as cajan prawns and chicken wings. The food was fantastic and the queue outside just got longer and longer as the evening progressed. A nice surprise and final meal here in San Francisco before leaving in the morning. On the way back to the motel there was one last photo op as we passed the intersection at Haight-Ashbury which was a 'happening' place back in the 60s. We dug it.

    Song of the Day:
    Take Me Out To The Ball Game
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  • Day 8 - Two Nights in the Valley

    15 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It feels like we have been in San Francisco for ages, and I mean that in a good way. I find with most cities that the more you are prepared to explore the more they reveal themselves. All the districts we visited had their own particular feel and each had something different to offer. The city also has some obvious issues, with homelessness being a major one. Homelessness is an aspect of most major cities but here they are everywhere and on quite a few streets there are rows of tents in makeshift camps hugging the sidewalks. Why there are so many may be due to the pull of the city and what it stands for. It is a liberal and free thinking city where the American dream is attainable. The city has vibrant immigrant communities, is welcoming to the LGBT community and has an ability to reinvent itself, whether it's after a devastating earthquake or as the vanguard of the internet revolution. Unfortunately, the dream is just that for many others too. As this is the first major city we have visited in the US I can't compare it with others but I get the feeling that there won't be many places like this.

    With San Francisco in our rear view mirror we were leaving the big city for the great outdoors. Yosemite National Park was next and it was a four hour drive away. We swapped driving duties halfway and the terrain gradually changed from endless turnoffs for suburbs to twisting mountains and endless trees. On reaching our lodge in the pleasant Yosemite Valley it was starting to get dark and so we decided to have dinner and turn in for an early night. We had two tours booked for tomorrow and so we took it easy with an evening of reality TV.

    Song of the Day:
    The Mamas and The Papas - California Dreamin'
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  • Day 9 - The Land of the Giants

    16 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    How to describe Yosemite? I'll leave it to the Rough Guide:

    'Put simply, Yosemite Valley, nestled in Yosemite National Park, and created by glaciers gouging through the canyon of the Merced River, is one of the world's most dramatic geological spectacles.'

    That's about right. Alice and I went on the day tour to Glacier Point which was a good hour away in the coach. It was worth it for the view of the main spectacle that is the Half Dome. We had plenty of time here to take in the scenery and then it was back in the coach. The coach journey was narrated the whole time by the driver which was quite a feat considering the size and bends in the road they also had to content with. The history and geology of the area was described in great detail with lots of humour thrown in. Once we got back we relaxed for a couple of hours, had dinner and then it was off for the night tour.

    It was neither as long or as detailed as the first tour and that was the whole point. The first tour in the day was a feast for the eyes whilst the night tour, which happily coincided with the Harvest Full Moon, was a chance to exercise the other senses. The noises and temperature drops felt in different parts of the valley were another way to understand how the animals and environment of the park interacted, this time at night. There were memorable moments involving sight too, particularly when the tour guide flashed her light up at different monuments at climbers hundreds of feet up who would flash their flashlights back at us. We also howled at them like wolves and all this did was rile up a bunch of campers nearby who started jumping up and down and manically howling. It was pretty funny. The moonlight due to it being a full moon also shone off the monuments in a powerful way. The tour guide said at one point 'the biggest mountain you will ever climb is the mountain inside yourself.' It was getting deep! After a hot chocolate for everyone we headed back and it was late enough to go straight to bed.

    Song of the Day:
    Creedance Clearwater Revival - Bad Moon Rising
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  • Day 10 - Lake Saplenty

    17 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Today we headed for Lake Tahoe. We drove up and over numerous mountains, passing a few incredibly beautiful lakes to get there. We even crossed the stateline back into Nevada enroute. Just a few miles before our destination we also hit the 1000 mile mark. Woo hoo!

    Lake Tahoe itself serves as a resort in the summer and as a skiing destination in the winter. It's one of the highest, deepest, cleanest and coldest lakes in the world and is longer than the English Channel is wide. True facts. On arrival we had dinner in a traditional 1950s diner that we both enjoyed. Alice had a strawberry milkshake and as part of the 'Wings and Shakes' ethos of this blog, Alice says it was excellent. She particularly enjoyed the strawberry syrup that was mixed through the shake and although not a fan of too much whipped cream in shakes, the right amount was provided. Also, the glace cherry did have to be removed. Just to stress, it was excellent.

    After a quick look around and walk by the beach we went back to our hotel for a quiet night in.

    Song of the Day:
    Counting Crows - Big Yellow Taxi (heard it on the road and felt apt whilst looking at the natural world)
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  • Day 11 - Back to the Coast

    18 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We stayed at Howard Johnson's in Lake Tahoe. That's a chain and not a friend of ours by the way. It was located right next to Heidi's which is a typically American breakfast diner (and not another friend) and it was so busy we had to wait twenty minutes to be seated. Once seated, the attentive staff ensured I had a cup of coffee before I even perused the menu. The breakfast itself was delicious and filling, perfect for the afternoon ahead as Alice and I were to embark on a six hour drive.

    On the way we went to an American staple, Walmart. Now it was a big store with plenty of choice and yet I somehow felt disappointed. I don't know why but I was expecting a staggeringly huge emporium of goods. The one thing that did surprise me was the rows of gun ammunition. I did not realise you could pick up a box of ammo with your loaf of bread and assumed you would have to go to a gun store for all your gun needs. Back to the chain itself, and Walmart still has time to wow me as we plan to go to the biggest store in the US later on in the trip.

    On the last stretch of the journey before reaching Fort Bragg on Highway 20 there was a pleasant surprise that followed us for most of the road. Clear Lake is exactly what it sounds like and it had a serene quality that I felt was lacking from Lake Tahoe. Granted, we only saw a fraction of Lake Tahoe which feels like a rough judgement. However, Clear Lake just popped out of nowhere creating one of those fantastically unplanned moments whilst on the road. The early evening sunshine was slowly seeping away, although at the same time it's quiet power glimmered off the surface making it difficult to see the multiple jetties and surrounding mountains. This was all the more impressive to behold as there were no crowds, motels or burger chains sucking all the joy and wonder from the experience. Maybe it was being on the road for five hours by this point but this lake had an impact on me. Clearly! A nice memory to add to the many already piling up.

    We reached Fort Bragg just before dusk and quickly headed out for dinner. We had pizzas from a small local joint where the owner was friendly and also well travelled, having stayed in the UK and New Zealand for long periods of time. The pizzas were top notch too. Then it was back to the motel and an early night as tomorrow's drive was to be even longer than today's.

    Song of the Day:
    Hall & Oates - You Make My Dreams Come True (heard it on the road and reflected our general mood)
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  • Day 12 - Bye California, Hello Oregon

    19 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We left our Super 8 motel early as it was a long drive today. Nearly 8 hours, or a whole page and a bit of the USA A-Z!

    The first stretch included the final miles of the Highway 1 North, a road we became acquainted with all the way back on Day 3. Even for this last section Alice and I thought there was enough scenic beauty to warrant it a favourite on this Highway. This might also have something to do with the weather as it has been all sunshine since San Francisco.

    Highway 101 was next and it took us straight into bendy interior roads with tight hairpin corners. This then led into two options, a continuation of the Highway 101 on open straight roads or the 'Avenue of the Giants' which was the old bendy road with huge redwood trees. We took the scenic route and we're glad we did as the trees lining the road are ridiculously large. This area has one of the biggest trees in the world but that would require a short hike. Our aim for today was still a long way off and so we continued on. We are on Day 12 of 90 and we have only really seen California and some of Nevada so far. We better get a move on if we're going to do this loop!

    After the trees we saw the wood... of the log cabin infused theme of Applebee's, an all American dining experience. It also reminded me of the 'Harvester' chain in the UK, minus the free salad, and it reminded Alice of the 'Cobb'n'Co' chain in New Zealand. I had the 'streetlife chicken and cajun shrimp sizzler' and Alice had the 'won ton shrimp stirfry'. The food was very good and well priced but it was our server who capped off our lunch. When I asked for a glass of water I got his finger pointed at me in a non-threatening gun gesture followed by a wink and a 'you got it!'. I also got my coffee 'on the house' for some reason. It's been twelve days of good to excellent service so far and today we hit exceptional. He definitely deserved a recommended 18% tip. I pushed it to 20%.

    Leaving with smiles and full bellies it was not long before we hit the Oregon state line. California has been a blast and we would love to come back and discover the state further in the future. Crossing into Oregan there were still lots of trees, lakes and so forth and I thought it would take a little while for Oregon to reveal itself. On arrival at our destination, Coos Bay, a change was soon becoming apparent. Primarily the increased presence of the logging and fishery industries. However, it is still early in this picturesque state and tomorrow, more driving and revelation awaits.

    Song of the Day:
    KC and the Sunshine Band - Give It Up (heard it on the road and summed up how we felt about not getting to see everything we want to)
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  • Day 13 - Let's. Go. Shopping!!!

    20 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Today involved driving, shopping and finger licking buffalo winging. A good day.

    At our motel in Coos Bay we missed the breakfast that finished unusually early and so we decided to get a cheeky McDonald's breakfast and bring it back to the motel to eat in bed. The drive thru was a comedy routine in mis-communication and 'lost in accents' but the important thing here is we returned with bags full of our daily allowances for sugar, salt and fat and boy did we enjoy it.

    Today's trip was 'just' four hours. It's amazing how quickly you get used to driving long hours. Now we are further inland we are becoming a bit more inventive with our listening habits as the roads are no longer bendy and fun. Podcasts such as 'Football Weekly' and 'My Dad Wrote A Porno' are seamlessly blending in with the usual music. We're enjoying listening to compilations and having a number of NOW! albums from throughout the years are reminding us of past classics and atrocious one-hit wonders whilst we're also discovering unknown gems. It's been noticed that Disc 2 from the late 90s onwards is where all those techno-euro-dance songs are collated. Maybe with the hope that people would give up by the end of Disc 1 or hopefully lose Disc 2 under the car seat. Or those with a liking for DJ Sammy, Vengaboys and Aqua had a disc for all their needs. Either or.

    About thirty minutes outside of Portland there is a large outlet mall called Woodburn. Oregan is also a no sales tax state. You see where this is going? Alice and I wondered around various branded stores and the prices were cheaper than the UK with most things but not amazingly so, even when compared with pre-Brexit rates. That said, we still left the mall with bags containing tops, shoes and a hoodie.

    With just a touch of traffic on the way in, we had reached Portland. It's been a few days since we've been in a city and it's nice to have a break from driving for a few days and a chance to use our legs. It was already dusk when we arrived at our motel and so after a quick bit of googling Alice found a Buffalo Wing diner just 10 minutes walk away.

    What a find! We ordered twenty-four wings and were able to have up to four sauces. With local IPA's ordered, I & IPA, we tucked into the wings and sweet potato fries. We rated the wings as thus:

    Alice:
    1. Peanut (soon to be famous) (those first brackets added by them)
    2. Buffalo
    3. Lime & Coriander
    4. Bourbon and Chipotle

    Ashley:
    1. Lime & Coriander
    2. Buffalo
    3. Peanut (soon to be famous)
    4. Bourbon and Chipotle

    We actually thought the bourbon wings would be a dark horse before we tried the first one but wow were they hot. And we like hot food. Lip tingling, tongue numbing hot. The ranch sauce and celery helped here. It was a great dining experience all round. A good start to our brief time here in Portland.

    Song of the Day:
    Jimi Hendrix - Little Wing (a painting of Jimi worshipping a buffalo wing in the diner)
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  • Day 14 - Summer Better Than Others

    21 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Alice and I took it easy today. A good fit for this city. The weather was still great, mid 20s, and after a lazy morning we strolled leisurely into Downtown. On the way we went to one of the highly regarded breweries of Portland, Burnside. Whilst looking at the list of beers and ales in front of us we couldn't decide on which one to have. So we ordered them all. No honestly, with a tasting flight. We went for the full twenty. Let's just say we worked our way through each glass with lots of chin scratching and debating. In brief, the Deadfinger, with a malty sweet aroma, was a fabulous ale and deserved winner whilst the Sakura Gost, with salt cured cherry blossoms, was a bad idea that should not have been barreled.

    We then wandered into Downtown to a book store, Powell's. This is a wonderfully large and eclectic book store that I thought had a clever way of blending new and second hand books together so that if they had two of the same book that you wanted you could pick between the two and their varying costs. I couldn't resist and left with a book in hand.

    Dinner time was soon upon us and we went to a place called Tilt. Alice had a huge chicken burger with bacon and I had the beef brisket sandwich that was bursting with meat and other fillings. A tasty meal that left us both stuffed and then we got the tram back to the motel.

    Song of the Day:
    Bill Withers - Lean On Me (heard it at lunch)
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  • Day 15 - Roses & Ghosts

    22 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The day started with a fantastic coffee from Barista. Always a great start. After a bit of shopping and meandering around Downtown it was lunchtime. Portland is well-known for its wide range of gastronomic treats and we have already experienced a few with our first night at the buffalo wings diner and yesterday afternoon in a bar run by a craft brewery. Portland is probably most famous for another dining treat, food carts. These mini marvels are in certain areas of the city and there are a large number on offer. I ended up going for chicken and rice from Nong’s Khao Man Gai and Alice had the jalapeño popper from The Grilled Cheese Grill. Both were as good as we had expected them to be and we were left wondering how lucky the workforce here in central Portland are to have this array of food available for lunch.

    Next up was an opportune time to burn off all these lavish meals. The aim was Washington Park and that would require a bit of a walk to get there and look around. The park is a real treat as it is fairly small and immaculately looked after. There are tags in front of nearly all the plant life telling the passer-by what they are looking at which gives the park the feeling you are in a large open garden centre. This also allows the sense of ordered nature within the park which is exactly what I think of with Japanese gardens. Funnily enough, there is also a large Japanese garden here too! This costs $9.50 to visit. At first I thought this was a bit steep and unnecessary, reminding me of the 'big yellow taxi' song of having to pay to see trees in a tree museum. However once inside, the care, precision and beauty of the manicured gardens within gardens are staggering. To be able to show the harmonious aspect of nature in a controlled manner is a skill and an art. Within minutes, breathing slows and relaxation begins as your gaze is lost in the stones (the bones), the water features (the life force) and the vegetation (the seasons). Following a suggested route, you are guided over bridges, passing a tea house, next to babbling brooks, a waterfall and a finally a Zen garden. To some, a Zen garden is a bunch of small stones raked in pretty patterns around bigger stones. To others, it's a point of interest to reflect on everything and nothing. Yes, Alice and I were both big fans of the garden. The only criticism is the current construction around the garden leading to a partially distracted visit. However, this just gives us another reason to return in the future as the extension plans look interesting. There is more in the park too, with a touching holocaust memorial and a large rose garden. We now felt relaxed and contemplative and began our slow walk back to Downtown.

    We went straight to Voodoo Donuts. The variation of donuts were bewildering and the 'homer' donut caught my eye. It was really good too. Alice had the 'portland cream' which is the official donut of Portland. After donuts came coffee at Stumptown, a local blend known for its sweetness. Again, very good. All this snacking was in preparation for a tour we were going on in the evening.

    The 'Shanghai ungerground tunnel' tour of Portland was how it was billed. Probably the strangest and unintentionally funniest tour I have ever been on. The group met at a designated bar, and hung around for a bit and then had orientation at the back of the bar. The tour guide introduced herself and then asked us whether we wanted a history tour or a ghost tour. Both of my eyebrows were considerably raised already. When the majority shouted out ghost tour, it appears Alice and I and the group next to us really should have shouted out history louder. As it turns out, "history" had very little to do with this tour anyway. So did "tunnels". And so did anything that wasn't anecdotal experiences of paranormal activity. The focus was on a practice known as shanghaiing, basically kidnapping people to work on ships for years on end. When referring to an event in this little known or never actually happened history in this particular basement, the tour guide started each sentence with 'back in the day...'. Urban legend became concrete truth within these walls. But hey, the people wanted a ghost tour and that's what they got. It was basically a tour of the basement of the bar we started off in with various props scattered about with added stories of women's hair bring pulled, children's hands being felt in theirs, men having unexplained scratches on their necks, etc etc for two hours. Afterwards, the internet confirmed all our suspicions that there is actually very little evidence of any of the history that was just explained to us. If you still want to go on this tour, make sure you are inebriated and are prepared for large pinches of salt. A heady mix!

    Although the tour was not what we thought it was, the mellow atmosphere from earlier in the day ensured that we could laugh about it over the main activity that Portland does best, dining. In a diner come restaurant, which they actually called a 'dinerant', Alice and I had a lovely dinner with milkshakes. The place is called 'The Original Dinerant' and Alice had 'The Grasshopper' which had creme de menthe, creme de cacao and chocolate ice cream and I had the 'The Pick Me Up' which consisted of baileys espresso and vanilla ice cream. They were fantastic and our favourite shakes of the trip so far.

    With dinner done, we got the tram back to the motel, mulling over the day's events.

    Song of the Day:
    Elliott Smith - Needle in the Hay (Elliott lived most of his life in Portland)
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  • Day 16 - Overcast in Seattle

    24 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I'm sure I've been going on about how great the weather has been. Oh, is that you karma? Today we have been introduced to the famous North Western Pacific rain. The last few days Alice and I have been visiting the very finest tat shops, laughing to ourselves at all the fridge magnets, postcards and badges referring to the rain. Luckily, it's a driving day, and so it's basically felt like any other day in London with the added authenticity of traffic as we approached Seattle. It was also about this time that we hit the 2000 mile mark of the road trip.

    A few words on Portland. Alice and I had high expectations for Portland and we're glad to say that the city has risen to the occasion. We both loved everything the city had to offer (minus bar basements) and the feel of the place in general. The west coast and in particular the north west continues to grow on us.

    Seattle was next. The home of the grunge music scene of the 90s and modern coffee drinking as we know it. Alice insisted we listen to Nirvana and Pearl Jam on the way in and so we felt reasonably fed up with our existence and the point of it all as we arrived. We needed coffee. So, for a self confessed caffeine fiend, the very first Starbucks is a modern mecca. And we weren't the only one's to visit 1912 Pike Place. The old signage, limited edition merchandise and even exclusive brews of coffee ensured that the queue to enter was the longest we would ever contemplate tolerating. Once we made it in I grabbed a limited edition enamel mug (yeah I know) and two cups of the 'pike place' blend coffee. It was actually very nice and Alice enjoyed it too.

    The sun had decided to break through by now and so that rain we witnessed on the way to Seattle had the decency to hold back whilst we shopped. As the evening approached it was dinner time and we had intended to just go for a drink at the Pike Brewery but we saw the menu and thought we'd go for food too. It's another all American dining experience and the food, mussels for me and fish tacos for Alice, was very good. We moved to the bar area and continued to drink, trying the Pike Brewery sampler of six of their finest. Another city another brewery sampled. Although just six drinks, we both thought that all but the stout were winners.

    We have a whole day in this city tomorrow and neither of us can wait.

    Song of the Day:
    Pearl Jam - State of Love and Trust (on the soundtrack to the movie 'Singles', which was set in Seattle, which also featured Pearl Jam, also from Seattle)
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  • Day 17 - Hello Seattle, I'm Listening...

    24 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We started the day with a late breakfast and then jumped on a bus as we were heading to Lake View Cemetery. I wanted to visit the grave of Bruce Lee after being informed by a friend of mine, Matt, that he was buried here. It took a while to figure out how to enter the cemetery but we eventually figured it out. The cemetery is huge and we managed to locate the grave of Bruce Lee and also that of his late son Brandon Lee. The graves themselves are actually facing away from the main path and require a short walk on stepping stones to reach a small bench facing the headstones. The graves are all the more powerful and touching due to their discreet and humble appearance. We didn't stay here long but I am very glad that we came to pay our respects to someone who helped introduce to the wider world the physical and philosphical practice of numerous martial arts.

    On our way back to Downtown, I had hoped to see another cultural icon from Seattle, the real coffee shop that had inspired Cafe Nervosa from Frasier. It used to be next to the Elliot Bay Bookstore but alas it no longer exists. That latte I was about to order with a Nile's influenced long list of demands was never to be. Maybe that's why they closed, having a bunch of smart alecs visiting and then holding everyone else up was probably not good for business. The disappointment was soon lifted as we were in yet another wonderland of a bookstore. The bookstores that we have visited so far in the states all have a unique and inviting atmosphere that I don't remember from the mainly monotonous chains in the UK. It took all my willpower not to buy another book.

    As we continued to Downtown there was a bit of a queue outside a shop and when we looked in we saw that it was an ice cream parlour. Without much persuasion we both went for double scooped cones that in our hands were huge! Just a bit further down we passed a statue that commemorated another Seattle icon, Jimi Hendrix. It's on a sidewalk outside an art supplies shop, fairly apt. We then continued our sharp descent into Downtown, a descent on a par with anything San Francisco had to offer, and we decided to have an aerial view of Seattle. The main tourist attraction that covers this requirement is the Space Needle, however, Alice and I read that the Smith Tower also has a great view of the city and is basically where the locals go. The tower itself is a mix between a living museum of the 1920s, not long after the tower was built, and once you get to the thirty-fifth floor a bar and viewing platform. The elevators are original features and had an elevator attendant present to operate the mechanism and give us a potted history as we ascended. The view itself was lovely and clear and was the first time this trip we've had one of those quintessential views of an American city skyline. More to come I'm sure.

    We went back to the hotel for a couple of hours to relax as we had mainly walked around all afternoon. It was also time to build an appetite for dinner. We had a look at a few restaurants before we left and decided to go to Serious Pies, a pizza restaurant. It was quite busy being a Saturday night and so we had a drink opposite whilst waiting for thirty minutes to pass. Once we got our table, the sparse menu still had enough choice to make a decision hard, and I went for the basic mozzarella, tomato and basil option and Alice went for the potato, rosemary and cheese pizza. When they arrived they were very tasty and just the right size. We leisurely finished our drinks and then went to a local brewery, Rock Bottom, and tried a few of their finest. We didn't overdo it mind, as tomorrow, we were back on the road.

    Song of the Day:
    Nirvana - The Man Who Sold The World (Nirvana were from Seattle)
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  • Day 18 - Eastward Bound

    25 September 2016, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    It's time to wave goodbye to the Pacific West and get ready for the Mid-West ahead. Set those clocks, we're passing a time zone!

    The day started at the diner chain IHOP. We both ordered the combo breakfast and Alice had pancakes with hers, and as we were in the International House of Pancakes I thought I'd check that assertion with an order or crepes. I also prefer crepes. The food was tasty, quick and cheap with unlimited coffee at hand. What more could you want?

    Then it was time to hit the road. It was an eight hour drive today that would result in two statelines being crossed. There was a lot more to see of Washington, although it wasn't as Evergreen as the state slogan suggests. Autumn waits for no state slogan! It was beautiful however. We then crossed Idaho, or if you were to think of Idaho as a hand with a forefinger pointing to the sky, we drove across the finger. We saw a whole hour of Idaho and then we were in Montana. Montana comes from the Spanish meaning 'the mountainous one'. The Spanish were definitely on to something! A multitude of mountains with varying terrains greeted us the moment we crossed the state line. It was a pleasant and scenic drive as we approached our motel for the night. Tomorrow, more roads and mountains as we aim for Yellowstone.

    Song of the Day:
    Willie Nelson - On the Road Again
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