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- День 23
- понедельник, 2 декабря 2024 г., 09:18
- ☁️ 54 °F
- Высота: 56 фт
ИспанияBarcelona–El Prat Airport41°17’18” N 2°4’25” E
The Last Leg

We have been through security and passport control at the Barcelona airport. Now we are sitting and resting comfortably in the beautiful VIP lounge. They have every type of food and beverage imaginable here, plus a reading area with all of the major newspapers and magazine to the world. Now it’s simply a matter of waiting for our flight and then heading home. It has been an extraordinary trip, but it’s always good to go home again.Читать далее
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- День 22
- воскресенье, 1 декабря 2024 г., 10:12
- ☁️ 55 °F
- Высота: 102 фт
ИспанияTemple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família41°24’15” N 2°10’30” E
Sagrada Familia

We are in the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. The most impressive thing when one walks into the building is that all of the stained glass windows on one side are red and yellow, and all of them on the other side are blue and green. The crucifix is unusual. It shows a Jesus not looking down, but rather looking up. I must confess I’m not the biggest fan of Antonio Gaudi, but the colors in the abstract stained glass windows, and his use of soaring space certainly are awe-inspiring.Читать далее
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- День 21
- суббота, 30 ноября 2024 г., 08:07
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Western Mediterranean37°46’35” N 0°13’58” W
My Ship

Let me tell you about my ship.
Every crew member treats me as though I own the ship. That’s why I call this post “My Ship.”
My favorite place on my ship is the top level of the Explorers’ Lounge on Deck 8 high at the front of the ship. The navigation bridge is just below us, so we get to see what the helmsman sees.
Another place we like is the World Café, a place for informal dining. We usually have breakfast and lunch here, and in the evening we often take our meals in the Restaurant or in one of the specialty dining areas like Manfredi’s (Italian), or the Chef’s Table.
The Atrium is the largest room, in the center of the ship. It’s is a good place to go to read, since it also contains the ship’s library. There is a bar nearby if you want to sip something. This is also where Guest Services and the Future Cruise Desk are located. Sometimes musical programs are staged here, and in the evening the classical pianist and the classical string duo play here. Broadway, jazz and rock musical presentations take place in the Star Theater on Deck 2 at the front of the ship. The link below will take you to photos of all of the parts of these ships that we love so much.
Many of our friends are blessed with beach houses that offer them a wonderful place for rest and relaxation. We like to think of the Viking Ocean Ships as our beach house, or maybe as our boat. But we don’t have to pay for slip fees, fuel, maintenance or insurance when we’re not using the boat, and we don’t spend our weekends driving to the coast to repair damage from the last big storm.
For us it works. We go to the far parts of the world and wake up every morning in a new country. And we are always learning. I learned more on our Viking World Cruise than I learned in four years of college.
All of the ships are new, clean, and beautiful with their spare Scandinavian decor. The crew keeps everything impeccably clean and in good repair.
Even though they treat me as though I own the Viking Saturn, I’m not cruising alone. That would get boring pretty quickly. I always meet dozens of folks whose company I enjoy. And one thing I really like about Viking is that all of their ocean ships are identical. When we walk out of our stateroom, we already know where to go to eat, to read, or to sally forth for an excursion off the ship.
Thanks for coming with us as I have shared my impressions of France, Spain and Africa. My next series of travel blogs will cover our trip to California in January, and another trip to Japan next June. We would love to have you come along. Until then, you may want to get in touch with Viking Ocean Cruises to create your own adventure (or your own ship).Читать далее
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- День 19
- четверг, 28 ноября 2024 г., 10:33
- 🌬 64 °F
- Высота: 26 фт
ИспанияCadiz Port36°31’55” N 6°17’26” W
A Jewel Discovered

Ten years ago, Malaga was a sleepy little Mediterranean port. Few people came here except to the airport, where they quickly took a flight to the nearby Costa del Sol to enjoy sun and surf for a few days. Oh! What a difference ten years can make! Malaga has now been discovered. There is something here for everyone. The city is now a Mecca for people interested in art, history, music, dramatic arts, cinema, technology and culinary arts.
The official guidebooks say that the city was founded by the Phoenicians around 3000 years ago. Recent construction work around the cathedral has unearthed artifacts going back to 6000 B. C.
Three Phoenician gates and a Roman theater all predate the artifacts left from 800 years of Muslim rule. Malaga’s impressive cathedral is unique. It was begun in a neo-classical style and finished in a baroque style. I use the word “finish” loosely because the building has never really been completed, even though construction began in 1528. Locals refer to her as “the one-armed lady” because only one of two towers was ever built. Construction of the roof began around 1750 and there have always been plans to complete it “mañana.” Wonder of wonders! Workers actually began working on it two years ago. I asked our guide when the new roof would be completed. She smiled and said, “When Jesus returns.” Still, this Malagueña said that she and her neighbors like the old church the way it is, finished or not.
Malaga was one of the first Spanish cities to adopt industrialization, and now one of the first to convert to a hi-tech economy. Google just opened a new IT center right by the port. Malaga is the Silicon Valley of Spain. This city makes much more than computer chips, however. A mountain of potato chips will be consumed in an international hamburger competition going on now, bringing in master chefs from around the world.
Actor Antonio Banderas grew up here, and now makes his home in a building overlooking the two-thousand-year-old Roman theater. When he was a child Banderas would see the ancient stage and dream of becoming an actor. Once established in his career, he bought a house from which he could see the theater that nourished his dreams. His residence, reports say, is palatial inside.
Another favorite son is Pablo Picasso, who spent the first 10 years of his life here. His family moved away from Malaga, and at age 19 he moved to France to make his fortune. He always wanted to return here, but vowed not to do so as long as fascist dictator Francisco Franco was in power. Unfortunately the dictator outlived the artist by 2 years and Picasso never returned to his homeland.
Malaga has been discovered. With 3 million people now claiming it as home, the city’s growth has been exponential. It is now the third largest port in Spain. The Picasso Museum brings visitors from all over the world. The bull ring hosts bullfights only twice a year, and serves most often now as a venue for concerts and exhibitions. There are more than 40 museums here now, including a recent underground branch of the Pompidou Museum of Paris and a world renowned archaeological museum.
For Malaga today the sky’s the limit. The city is taking its place among the world’s leading centers for technology, tourism and the arts. We thoroughly enjoyed our three-hour walking tour into the old city today. When you come, you may want to stay in one of the lovely hotels called “paradors.” The Spanish government has assisted entrepreneurs in finding historical buildings (monasteries, palaces, fortresses, and the like) in the most dramatic locations and converting them into five-star hotels. Some are on the seaside, some on mountaintops or at the edge of cliffs. All are breathtaking. Or, like us, you could come on a Viking Ocean cruise. I’m sitting out in the veranda on a gorgeous Friday afternoon sipping a cold beverage, overlooking the rooftops and dreaming about how sailors came into this very port a thousand years ago. For a taste of Spain’s most ancient history and its newest hopes for the future, there’s no better place to see both than Malaga. And there’s no better way to see it than on a Viking cruise.
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ПутешественникHaha! That was the correct response on Jeopardy last night!
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- День 19
- четверг, 28 ноября 2024 г., 10:26
- ☀️ 64 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
ИспанияPlace d’Espagne de Cadix36°32’4” N 6°17’18” W
Whaddiz Cádiz?

If you didn’t get my joke in the title, it means you’re normal. Over 99.9999 % of Americans mispronounce the name of this place as “ka-DIZZ.” Remember the oil spill? Remember the Exxon kah-DIZZ.
My title has two words that rhyme exactly. The name is KAH-diz. It rhymes with WHAT-is. The accent is on the first syllable. It comes from the Roman name for this place, but we won’t go into all of that now.
I have long said that if for some reason we were not able to continue living in the U. S., I would come to Cádiz. An afternoon of walking slowly around this small town reinforced my opinion.
This city only has about 100,000 people, and it is located on a little peninsula that once hosted a Phoenician town 3000 years ago. But there were people here long before that. It may be the oldest town in the Western world. Although many European towns will tell you that their churches are built on the site of Roman or Greek temples, this is one of the few towns where the churches are built on top of old Phoenician temples.
Cádiz does not have any attractions like an Eiffel Tower or a Taj Mahal, but it has the special charm of a quiet town that is not trying to be anything other than what it is. There’s a beach here. There is also a twelfth-century cathedral, called the “old cathedral,” and one from the renaissance called the “new cathedral.” In the crypt of the new cathedral I saw the tomb of one of my musical heroes, the Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla. There are markets selling fish that were swimming in the ocean an hour ago. And other markets selling the delicious jamon iberico, a ham that comes from hogs grown nowhere else in the world. There is fresh produce everywhere, and more people walk to the markets than drive to them.
In Cádiz there is time for two old guys just to sit around at the local garage and talk about mañana. But, of course if you know your town has been around for 6000 years, you don’t need to be in a hurry. In Cádiz you can take your dog into a bar. Nobody minds.
Cádiz is an old girl. She has seen everything come and go several times—Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Moors, kingdoms, emperors, and republics. For too many millennia to count. And she doesn’t get too excited about any of that stuff anymore. She just enjoys sipping a glass of wine in an afternoon garden and smelling the delicious orange trees. She loves to spend an evening just watching the ocean waves crash on her beach. She enjoys taking her time.
All things considered, not a bad way to live.
What is Cádiz? It’s not heaven. That doesn’t exist in this world. But Cádiz is a place of uncommon beauty, with people of uncommon kindness who have learned it is the simple gifts that make life worth living. And they have learned that there is really no good reason ever to be in a hurry.Читать далее
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- День 18
- среда, 27 ноября 2024 г., 08:55
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Высота: 26 фт
МароккоBassin du Tourisme33°36’19” N 7°37’14” W
Here’s Looking at You, Kid!

Our guide Hamid began by introducing a few Arabic phrases such as “Yalla, habibi!” which means, roughly translated, “Let’s go, friends,” a phrase he used often in the course of the morning. He gave us an overview of our itinerary for the day and I was delighted that it contained a couple of stops that had not been previously advertised in the brochure.
On the way to our first stop we passed by Rick’s Café, a re-creation of the restaurant featured in the 1942 movie, “Casablanca,” starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. The bar was not on our agenda for the day, so we did not stop, but Hamid mentioned to us that the restaurant is a very popular not only among Americans visiting Morocco, but among residents of Casablanca as well. In my own reading I learned that the King and government were sympathetic to the Allied cause in World War II, but at the request of the U. S. State Department Morocco remained neutral. The allies needed a non-aligned nation where their secret foreign agents and members of the European resistance could hold clasdestine meetings with Germans and others having ties to the Third Reich. So even though Rick’s Bar in the movie is fictional, the film gives an accurate flavor of Casablanca as a place of foreign intrigue, secret diplomacy and undercover operations. The neutrality of Morocco proved useful in 1943 when the Casablanca Conference was held between President Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Josef Stalin. We saw the buildings in the section of town known as the Habous, where that conference was held. We also saw the house a few doors down which has been the home of the U. S. Ambassador to Morocco ever since the close of the war.
A highlight in this city of 7 million people was the glorious Hasan II Mosque. Blending traditional Islamic elements with modern technology, it is the third largest mosque in Africa. Including its sanctified courtyard, the mosque can accommodate 120,000 worshippers. It was completed in 1993 at a cost of some $800 million. Designed by French architect Michael Pinseau, almost all of the materials in the mosque are from Morocco, even the elaborately decorated titanium doors. The walls and floors are made of hand-crafted Moroccan marble, and the roof is retractable. It boasts the tallest minaret in the world, shooting up 200 meters. A laser at its pinnacle shines every night, pointing the way to Mecca, home of the Prophet Muhammad. The mosque is built on a spit of reclaimed land and is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean. Among the few objects not of Moroccan design are its 60 chandeliers from the Venetian island of Murano. Each chandelier weighs 2,630 pounds. Remarkably, the building was constructed in only six years and was funded entirely by private contributions. The magnificence of this structure beggars description.
We drove through the neighborhood of Anfa, (or “the hill”) the original name of the city when it was founded in the 7th century. By the time of the European explorations of Africa’s west coast, Anfa had become a haven for troublesome pirates, so the Portuguese blasted the city into ruins in 1468. The town was rebuilt between 1756 and 1790 by Sultan Mohammaed ben Abdallah, an ally of George Washington. The city was renamed Casa Branca, Portuguese for “White House.” It began to grow rapidly as a port and a supplier of wool and tea for the British. Later Spanish overlords changed the pronunciation to “Casablanca” without changing its meaning. The oldest part of town is the neighborhood of Medina. We admired its charming suq and its labyrinthine streets and alleys. It really does look like some of the depictions of ancient Arab towns in the movies of my childhood. This part of the city seems untouched since the eighteenth century and bears its own distinctive charm.
Casablanca was occupied by the French in the early 20th century, becoming a protectorate in 1912. In 1937 the French used an outbreak of typhoid fever as an excuse to deport thousands of Moroccans to the countryside so that they could expropriate land in the city’s center for the construction of a new “rational” housing project. The French built the planned community of New Medina complete, with houses, schools and even a mosque. We saw the houses of New Medina today, which are still occupied by Moroccan families. Our guide was especially proud to show us one dwelling which, until the Covid outbreak, housed a Jewish family. Although that family has now moved to a newer neighborhood, our guide showed us two synagogues. In Casablanca Muslims, Jews and and a small Christian population seem to get along living side by side.
While we were in the Habous area, we popped into the forecourt of one of the palaces of sixty-year-old King Muhammad VI. He has one wife, who was trained as an engineer, and two kids in college. Releasing this sort of private family information is a first for the royal family here. Moroccans love their king. Although his father, Hassan II, was also a beloved monarch, no one ever knew how many wives or children he had. The openness of the current monarch is refreshing.
We ended our tour by cruising down John F. Kennedy Avenue and turning onto Franklin D. Roosevelt Avenue to arrive at United Nations Square, the center of the new commercial area of Casablanca. Here are the Moroccan Stock Exchange, high-rise buildings and shops that sell everything from souvenirs made by local artisans to high-priced clothing of Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Hamid was careful to take us to a store whose merchandise was certified by the government to be made by Moroccans in Morocco. Chinaware, tajines, carved wooden items and leather goods abounded. Some of these items were made in a large facility owned by Richard Branson’s (of Virgin Airlines) mother. Branson has a home and a luxury hotel in Morocco, and his mother is on a mission to provide employment for Moroccan women. One of her cooperative production facilities employs over 800 women. All of the products we saw were really were beautiful. I fell in love with a computer briefcase made of camel leather, but, alas, my suitcase is full.
It is remarkable how Viking Ocean Cruises opens up the world to us. Morocco is no longer just a word on a page or a spot on a map. It is a place with real people, real joys, real sorrows, real life. Though we may set sail again tonight, we will take these wonderful people and their magical country with us in our hearts forever.Читать далее
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- День 17
- вторник, 26 ноября 2024 г., 17:44
- ☁️ 64 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Alboran Sea36°2’3” N 5°17’28” W
Passing Gibraltar

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- День 17
- вторник, 26 ноября 2024 г., 09:26
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Western Mediterranean36°19’5” N 0°6’55” W
Housekeeping While Traveling

On this sea day we won’t be doing any excursions to report. We’re just lollygagging around the ship headed for Morrocco, so I wanted to share a few disparate travel tips we have learned. Over the years of travel we have developed a few principles and techniques that may help you on your next trip.
When living out of a suitcase, things can get lost. The most important thing to keep in mind is to take as little as possible. If you take less, you simply have less to keep up with, less to lose. Since 2017, except for the World Cruise, Glenda and I have not checked any baggage at the airport. We each have a carry-on bag that we keep with us throughout the flight. I will usually take a computer briefcase as a personal item to hold my laptop, pen and pad, and any small items I may want to access during the flight. Glends’s personal item is a tote that she can easily access duiring the flight. Her travel jacket functions as her purse and holds all documents and other essential items.
I usually travel wearing a Scott-E-Vest. (I am not a stockholder in Scott-E-Vest, nor am I receiving any compensation for this article.) This garment has some 20 pockets, including some smaller pockets hidden inside larger pockets. The vest has zip-on sleeves so that it can become a jacket, an RFID pocket to prevent credit card theft, and a ton of other features for travelers. One must be mindful, though, when wearing the Scott-E-Vest. It is easy to forget which pockets are used for each item UNLESS you always put things in the same pocket. I know where my passport goes, which pocket contains my credit cards, where my glasses and sunglasses stay and where my cash lives. Each of these items always goes into the same pocket. At night I do not take these items out of my jacket to put them in a drawer. They stay in the jacket. That saves time when I dress the next morning. I don’t have to find items or transfer them from drawer to jacket.
I must confess I made one mistake this trip walking into Valetta, Malta. The town is up on a high cliff, and to get there you must ride up in an elevator. I thoughtlessly stuffed my elevator ticket in the pocket holding my glasses. It was a very windy day. When I pulled out my reading glasses, they snagged the ticket and it blew away. No harm done, though. The attendant accepted my explanation and let me on the lift anyway. It may be a good idea to put just one type of item in each pocket from now on. If more than one item is placed in a pocket or a sub-pocket, make sure nothing you withdraw can catch onto other contents. I’m always learning.
Glenda requires a bit more diversity in her wardrobe than I. She is not happy wearing the same Scot-E-Jacket/vest or Magellan travel jacket every day, even though she always uses hers instead of carrying a purse. She is, appropriately, concerned about what she calls the “cute factor,” so she travels with items in only three basic colors: black, white and blue. She also packs two scarves and a few pieces of cheap costume jewelry. With a few lightweight accesories, she can dress up any casual outfit. She also has one functional black knit suit she can dress up by adding a scarf or jewelry. She just changes accessories and wears that suit if we go to a fancy restaurant.
I, on the other hand, have a travel uniform. When I go to the airport I wear a white shirt and dark travel pants. I pack another one of each, along with underwear and socks. I wear one pair of versitile leather shoes. My Scott-E-Vest goes on top, holding glasses, passport, cash and credit cards. For dinners and fancy restaurants I take one sport coat and two neckties that go with my travel pants, and a crushable fedora. The result is that I have a travel uniform that allows me to pack as an extreme minimalist. That leaves room in my suitcase for iPhone chargers and cords, as well as medicines. For quick access during TSA inspections, a small plastic bag in the zippered pouch on the outside of my suitcase holds a few liquids. I can unzip it quickly to show the TSA agents if necessary.
On this trip we spent a week in Paris before boarding the ship, and the weather forecast predicted cold temperatures and rain. (The forecast was correct.) I also packed a sweater, gloves, and a rain/sun hat with a chin strap. I wore my wool felt fedora. My small Spirit Airlines underseat bag fit well within the airline requirements for carry-on luggage. Glenda, though not quite as severe as I am, still gets everything into a carry-on bag and one small personal item.
Another thing you can use to make traveling simpler is to use your cell phone as a travel tool. Our phones now are so smart they can handle dozens of tasks automatically. For example, if you have an app on your phone for your airline, the app may offer to copy your flight information onto your calendar. Doing this allows you to set reminders prompting you when it’s time to go to the airport, to go to your gate, etc. There are two things you need to be careful about, however. Don’t try to adjust the times of flights and events to the time zone to which you will be traveling. If you just leave your calendar alone, it will adjust the time for you when you arrive in a different time zone. When you get to your destination, all of the times for scheduled events will appear correctly in local time.
Be careful about allowing your airline app to copy your flight information to your calendar too early in your planning. Everytime there is a gate change, an airplane change, or a time change (even if it just a minute or two) in your itinerary, your airline app will send you a notice and ask if you want to copy this information to your calendar. If you agree, it will do so. The only problem is that it will not erase the previous entry, and your calendar will show multiple entries for the same flight. It takes some figuring to determine which entry is the most recent. If the date of your flight is changed, then you will see the same flight listed on different days, and that can really get confusing, especially if those flights are on opposite sides of the International Date Line. If you use your calendar, wait until the last possible moment to allow your airline app to copy your flight information to your calendar. You may prefer not to copy the information to your calendar at all, but rather consult your airline app itself for your flight information. What you see there will always be up-to-date and it will not be duplicated.
You probably already know that you can keep your boarding pass on your cell phone to reduce paper clutter. We did, however, find one boarding gate on this trip that required slipping a paper boarding pass into a tiny slot. My cell phone would not fit into the slot. Luckily I also had in hand a paper copy that worked. Boarding pass technology is changing quickly, though. When boarding the plane in Newark this trip, they used a photo-biometric system for a boarding pass. They just took my picture with a cell phone, and that was it! No boarding pass needed.
We made advance reservations to attractions using our cell phones so that we could keep all of our tickets to museums, churches, and other attractions on our cell phones. This practice saved on paper clutter, and we didn’t have to keep up with our tickets. At the Eiffel Tower, Chartres Cathedral, and several art museums, attendants just scanned the QR code from our cell phones.
Another issue related to cell phones affects the way wi-fi works. The wi-fi service onboard the aircraft is expensive and spotty, so we generally don’t use it. We hit a glitch once when I wanted to access a note on my cell phone while we were flying. The problem came when I realized that my cell phone had saved it “in the cloud,” and I had no wi-fi. If there is a note or a document you will need to access on the plane or in a foreign city where you do not have access to wi-fi, be sure to move that document from the cloud to your device before you leave for your trip. On the other hand, if you will be paying your provider for wi-fi and cellular data service in the foreign city, you may just leave all of your documents in the cloud. That might save a bit of time and trouble, Putting them physically into your cell phone, however, could save you some money, though, and it is much more reliable than accessing the cloud in a foreign city.
The same thing holds for maps you may want to use. An app called maps.me allows you to download maps so that they are physically resident on your device. Then you can use your maps for directions whether you have wi-fi or not. There is a charge for separate maps and a subscription fee. Recently Apple maps introduced this feature too; you can download maps at no charge. Be aware, though, that in a city with tall buildings around, map applications may be able to give you only your approximate location. We have used the maps on our cell phones in California before and they worked perfectly. However, we just finished a week in Paris and found the maps on our cell phone not always to be completely reliable. If you are using the maps on your cell phone, it’s good to have some idea of where you’re going, or a paper map with your known location. And, of course, always be on the lookout for signs posted on the street advising you of the direction to your destination. If the sign contradicts your cell phone map, follow the street sign.
I’m ready to nominate my wife for sainthood for the way she prepares our medicines for travel. She starts a few weeks before the trip and puts the appropriate daily doses of our morning pills and our nighttime pills in tiny little ziplock bags. These pouches go into two larger bags marked “A.M.” and “P.M.” This procedure may sound excessive to many friends, but Dr. Glenda is very careful about our medicines, and we each take half a dozen pills twice a day. Your mileage may vary.
These are just a few ideas that come to mind on this leisurely morning. Of course, if you have any specific questions, or ideas of your own about how to improve traveling, we would love to hear from you. Hope this helps.Читать далее

ПутешественникAll great ideas, Chuck. I’m going to share with Eric as his family is traveling to Japan in March.
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- День 2 538
- понедельник, 25 ноября 2024 г., 16:58
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
АлжирGare d’ Alger36°46’45” N 3°3’45” E
A Prayer for Algeria

I rarely re-post anything on FindPenguins, but we are visiting Algiers today. We landed here on Viking’s Inaugural World Cruise, and the post for that day gives a historical context for this remarkable nation. I hope you will indulge me as I offer again this background for my friends who may be unfamiliar with the revolution that occurred here in 1962 and with the powerful effects it still has on this country.
Here is my post for April 28, 2018:
Had it not been on the itinerary for our world cruise, I probably would not have come to Algeria. However, I am very glad we came.
Much of the time allotted to our excursion was spent at the Independence Memorial in Algiers. I was struck with how so many things called attention—how many comments from our guide, and how many signs, parks, buildings and institutions—all called attention to the War for Independence that ended with the expulsion of the French in 1962.
I remember that war. I remember following it on television. I remember the intense partisanship shown not only by native Algerian Muslims, but also by the French. On one hand, Algeria belongs to Algerians. On the other hand since the 1830’s Algeria was not merely a French colony, it was actually part of France. The three provinces of Algeria were actually three French states, like Bordeaux or Provence or Alsace. The result in the 1950’s and 60’s was intense guerrilla warfare not only by the Arabs, but also by the French. When the French government under President Coty couldn’t handle the situation in 1958, Parliament, in an extraordinary move, called General Charles DeGaulle out of his twelve-year retirement to keep France whole. Yet by 1959 DeGaulle saw the handwriting on the wall and said that Algeria must be independent. Four French generals then staged the Algiers Putsch of 1961 in which they attempted to foment another French Revolution. They wanted to topple the French government and imprison DeGaulle. They actually dropped paratroopers in Algiers, sent paratroopers ready to drop over Paris, and intended to take over all of France. DeGaulle stopped them just before the Champs Elysees could become a combat LZ. When it was all over 1.5 million people were dead in a struggle for independence that lasted from 1954 until 1962.
Since then Algeria has struggled, first, as a republic. Corruption killed it. Then in a relatively free election the Islamic Salvation Front came to power in 1991. It decreed that Algeria was a theocracy with no ruler but Allah. Arts, music, and education were squelched, as in other nations ruled by Islamists. They cancelled all future elections. The people wouldn’t have this, so another long civil war ensued. Some 200,000 people were killed. As a result, Algeria is no lover of political Islamism. Algerians have been there; done that; and got the T-shirt.
Abdelaziz Boutaflika was elected President in 1999, and has removed from the Constitution the two-term limit for the office of President. So now Algeria has a dictator. Still, he may be doing some good. This police state is now stable. He has made several Presidential decrees calling for such things as equal rights for women, religious freedom for all Algerians, and an end to discrimination based on race, creed or color. It is of interest to note that there is a Catholic Church here left over from the French that still has a small congregation of Christians. In the church, Notre Dame d’Afrique, there is an inscription saying, “Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us Christians and for the Muslims.”
Now Boutaflika is even encouraging free enterprise and entrepreneurship. These changes look to me very much like the state capitalism now advocated by the Chinese government.
Algeria is not a free nation. The police led our bus procession through the streets today. We could not leave our guide. We could not even walk on the pier where our ship is docked. Algeria is still struggling. The people here are wonderful. They waved happily at our busses. We are the first big passenger ship in here since a spate of violence occurred about a year ago. Algerians are glad to see tourists again.
As we entered the port of Algiers four fishermen on the quay saw me on the veranda and shouted “Where you from?”
I yelled back, “USA.”
They flashed big smiles, and started shouting, “America number 1! America number 1! Allahu akbar! America number 1! Allahu akbar!”
Algerians want desperately to be a nation—a real nation, with commerce and education and art and culture and a history of something other than bloodshed. However, there is a part of the Algerian people that just seems tired. Tired of the violence. Tired of being used. I pray that their spark of hope has not died out completely.
Coming here today was not so much entertaining as is was educational. Though I would not have chosen Algeria as a destination, I am very glad we came to this beautiful place to meet these lovely people. And I pray that God will be kind to them. Lord knows, they deserve some peace.
Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us Christians and for the Muslims, especially those of Algeria.Читать далее
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- День 16
- понедельник, 25 ноября 2024 г., 11:35
- ☁️ 70 °F
- Высота: 43 фт
АлжирTipasa Historic Site36°35’36” N 2°26’41” E
Small World

I spent the morning discovering the tomb of Queen Cleopatra Selene, the daughter of Cleopatra VII of Egypt and Marc Antony (Remember the movie with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton?) Their daughter married King Juba II of Numidia and Mauritania, a Roman client-king. They reigned here in the second century A. D., and the Roman Emperor let him keep his title as long as King Juba knew the Romans were really in charge.
After seeing Cleopatra Selene’s mausoleum, we went to the Roman town of Tipasa, known in the second century as Colonia Aelia Augusta Tipasensium. The buildings were in ruins, but one’s imagination reveals how magnificent they must have been. One villa half way up a mountain has a solarium overlooking a beach and 28 bedrooms. I could get used to living there. A Christian basilica here served for two hundred years. Still it is beautiful in its ruination. Our guide took a bottle of water and poured it on the mosaic floor. It suddenly came to life with browns, golds and greens that must have been dazzling when they were new.
The big take-away for me today was that the Romans really did think of Mediterranean Sea as “Mare Nostrum,” or “Our Ocean”. I suppose I grew up thinking almost unconsciously of the great cultural and racial divide separating Europe and Africa. In my mind Europe and Africa were as different as Sherlock Holmes and Tarzan. What I’m learning today, however, is that in the Roman mind, there was no difference between them. The Romans really did feel a kind of manifest destiny that impelled them to own all of the Mediterranean Sea and all of the lands surrounding it. Northern Africa was as Roman as Italy. Egypt was Roman. Turkey was Roman. The Mediterranean was just their little lake, an interstate highway to their colonies around the world. I know that in my head, but for some reason I have to keep on reminding myself that St. Augustine was an African.
We had time to sit and rest under an olive grove overlooking the beach. I gazed at the lovely ruins around me. I thought about the people who lived here, people who considered themselves Roman, people who identified themselves as members of the greatest nation the world had ever seen. They must have thought it would last forever. For them it was “our ocean,” because it was all Roman. It was “our world” because the whole known world was theirs. It was a small world. It was a safe world. It was their world. The Romans’ little world was exactly as it was supposed to be.
Until the Vandals came.Читать далее
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- День 15
- воскресенье, 24 ноября 2024 г., 13:31
- ☀️ 68 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Western Mediterranean37°42’33” N 6°39’56” E
Taxi Scam

We did not post this at the beginning of our trip because we did not want family and friends to worry about us, but we had quite an adventure when we first arrived in Paris.
We landed at the Charles de Gaulle Airport on November 11 and got through French passport control. As we were about to exit the terminal to grab a taxi, a man approached us and asked if we wanted a taxi to downtown. We knew there was a set price for taxis to go to downtown Paris of €55, and he agreed on that amount for a price. He took us to the parking deck, loaded our luggage and we got in the car, which was labeled as a taxi. He talked rapidly in broken English and told us his name was Steven and that he was from the Seychelle Islands. He tried one exit to the parking garage, then spoke to someone on his cell phone (he had the speaker open) and he chose another exit. I thought this was strange. We traveled south maybe five minutes and a police car, with blue lights flashing and siren screaming, pulled behind our car. The police car kept pulling up beside us, trying to nudge our taxi to the side of the road. A five-minute high-speed chase on the motorway followed, with the police trying to move us to the side of the road, and our driver cutting in and out of traffic trying to get away from the police. Glenda and I were uncertain if the car chasing us was actually an unmarked police car with undercover cops in it, or if they were thugs who were in cahoots with our driver in an attempt to kidnap us. Finally, one of the police officers showed an arm badge that said, “Police,” and at that point I told the driver twice he needed to pull over and stop. Finally he did. Two policeman frisked him, handcuffed him, and pushed him into the back seat of the police car.
Then the policemen came to me and we talked in my baby French, his baby English, and we used Apple translator. He filled out two forms with the information I gave him, and I signed the forms. By that time the police had hailed a legitimate taxi to take us and our luggage the rest of the way to the hotel. Evidently the police had been keeping our driver under surveillance and were watching him so that they could catch him in the act of posing as a taxicab driver for tourists. They told us that often illegitimate taxicab drivers will take unsuspecting tourists downtown and then charge them exorbitant prices for the ride. They refuse to let tourists get their luggage until they pay the ransom. We found out later that the automatic sentence for anyone in impersonating a taxi driver is €15,000 and one year in prison. It was not the way we expected to arrive in Paris, but it was certainly an adventure at the beginning of our trip. But we are fine and our trip has been wonderful.
Our taxi adventure was a little bit scary, but it happened so fast. Glenda and I are seasoned travelers, but in an airport decisions must be made quickly, and one doesn’t have a lot of time to think. You just respond. When you arrive at the airport you are exhausted from a long airplane flight and from being awake approximately 24 hours. You must take your passport out, put it away; get your boarding pass out, and then put your boarding pass away; navigate customs; remove belt, watch and shoes for security; and then gather all those things up and put them back on in less than a minute. Had we been moving at a deliberate pace, we might have thought things through, but that’s not how you move in an airport. There is no time for deliberation. There’s only time to move quickly to the next thing that has to be done. We really didn’t have time to panic or to think things through.
Lessons we learned:
1. A taxi driver in France is forbidden by law to ask anyone if they want a ride. You must approach the taxi cab driver yourself.
2. All taxi cabs must be labeled in several ways, including the “bubble gum machine” ON TOP, flashing green yellow or red light telling whether it’s available, busy or waiting. Our driver had the marker, but it was located in his rear window, not on top.
3. All taxis must be in one area of the airport and never in a separate area like a parking garage or parking lot
4. Taxi cab drivers cannot come into the terminal or speak to any potential passengers.Читать далее
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- День 15
- воскресенье, 24 ноября 2024 г., 12:52
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Western Mediterranean37°42’20” N 6°46’24” E
John Rey

On our Viking inaugural world cruise we met John Rey. He was working in the world Café as an assistant café attendant. He impressed us then with his kindness, his gentle spirit and work ethic. On that cruise, he noticed that I had ordered iced tea for lunch, but had not drunk it. He asked if there was anything wrong  and I said no, not really, but it just didn’t taste like fresh iced tea. Five minutes later, this young assistant Café attendant appeared at our table with a glass of freshly brewed iced tea. Every time I walked into the world Café, John Rey would bring over a glass of fresh iced tea. We had not seen John Rey until our cruise last fall from Alaska to Japan. We walked into the World Café and John Rey was now functioning as a head waiter so he had one stripe. He had gone from assistant Café attendant to waiter and then to head waiter. He immediately recognized me, gave us a big hug and then had freshly brewed iced tea at my table within five minutes. He has an extraordinary memory and an attention to detail that is unsurpassed. We have come to think of John Rey as our son and always hope that we will see him on another cruise. When we walked on board the Saturn for this cruise, one of the first people we saw was John Rey. He is now an assistant restaurant manager, a two striper. We are so proud of him and how he has earned those two stripes by his extraordinary service to all of the passengers on the ship. He is equally willing as an assistant restaurant manager to clear a table, fix a coffee, or assist a passenger all while he is serving as the supervisor of the restaurant. He is the perfect example of a servant leader, one who leads by example not by command. Chuck and I say that he is the best of Viking in every way. How blessed we are to have him in our lives. We can’t wait to see three stripes on that sleeve soon. Читать далее
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- День 14
- суббота, 23 ноября 2024 г., 20:25
- ⛅ 63 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
ТунисLa Corniche36°53’19” N 10°21’10” E
Popcorn juice

Popcorn juice
Chuck and I always talk about the crew on the Viking ships. They truly are the best of Viking in every way. As I’ve said 1000 times, the ships are lovely, the decor is simply beautiful Scandinavian, the food is spectacular and the ports of call are interesting and educational. But what makes Viking our number one choice is the crew. Unless it were for my safety, I’ve never heard the word “no” on a Viking ship. If they have to turn down a request, it is met with a “that is not possible but…” so that an absoutely suitable alternative is suggested. 
So why would I title this post “popcorn juice? “ Well, after over 463 days on Viking ships, I found out on Thursday that I could get fresh squeezed orange juice in the world café. It never occurred to me to ask for fresh squeezed orange juice but when I did, it was, “Oh yes ma’am I will bring it right to you.” I love fresh squeezed orange juice, and I commented when she brought my juice back to me that I wished I had known this 463 days ago of Viking trips. Lindwie smiled and said, “ Madam, all you ever have to do is ask. We will try our best to give you whatever you want. If you ask for popcorn juice they will figure out a way to make it for you”. Every morning since my first glass of freshly squeezed orange juice when I enter the world Café, it is brought to my table without my asking. Whether it is a special sorbet made for me by the pastry chef or an omelette made perfectly just for me or my favorite crackers delivered to our room just because I mentioned to someone that I loved the crackers, Viking will always go far beyond what is expected to make every dream, wish or request come true. Читать далее
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- День 14
- суббота, 23 ноября 2024 г., 18:53
- 🌙 59 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Western Mediterranean36°44’60” N 10°25’29” E
The Chef’s Table

Last night, Bette and Joy and Chuck and I got dressed up a bit and went to the Chef’s table for dinner. The featured menu last night was the California menu which included a delicious crab cake, a Moscow Mule granita. a halibut entrée served over cherry tomatoes and topped with an arugula salad. The dessert was a posset cream layered with an orange gelatin and hints of ginger scattered throughout. The meal was lovely, but the highlight of the meal was our two waiters, Syukron and Anggun. They are efficient, knowledgeable and incredibly funny. They had us laughing throughout the meal all the while, staying on top of serving and clearing plates. They are the dynamic duo in the Chef’s Table and I think everyone wants to be at one of their tables. It was a delightful evening with friends. Thank you, Viking for having such wonderful crew members who entertain us as well as serve us. As I have always said, it’s the crew that makes Viking the best. Читать далее
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- День 14
- суббота, 23 ноября 2024 г., 09:13
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Высота: 26 фт
ТунисKoudiat el Khoja36°51’23” N 10°18’54” E
I Am a Carthaginian!

We sailed into the beautiful port of Tunis on the Mediterranean coast of Africa this morning. I had no idea that our visit to ancient Carthage today would be such an emotional experience, but before it was over I caught myself pulling for the Carthaginians.
First, a bit of history. You may remember from school about the Punic Wars. From 264 to 146 BC Rome and Carthage had three major wars and numerous conflicts to determine which empire would control the Western Mediterranean. Carthage had been founded in the ninth century B. C. by Phoenician traders originally from the area of modern Syria-Lebanon. They were not warriors, they were traders. For more than half a millennium they had established trading posts from Spain, all across north Africa and into the Middle East. By the third century B. C., however, Rome had begun to encroach on their territory, and the Carthaginians felt they must respond. The first unsuccessful assault against Rome was led by Hamilcar Barca. His son Hannibal vowed to avenge his father’s defeat and conducted a brilliant fifteen-year-long campaign against Rome. He crossed the Mediterranean at Gibraltar and had to fight his way up across the Alps to northern Italy to attack Rome from the north. I guess we all remember the story about Hannibal taking his war elephants over the Alps. Ultimately, the Roman general Scipio Africanus earned his surname “Africanus” by going to Africa and finally destroying Carthage and then rebuilding it as a Roman city.
That’s the history. And it never really meant that much to me until----
A few years ago Glenda and I gave each other a Christmas present. It was a DNA test to track our mothers’ ancestry back for thousands of years. What I learned was that about 60,000 years ago, my mom’s ancestors were Phoenicians. I am a Carthaginian! They were my team! And when they went up against the Romans, my team lost!
Oh, well. Win some. Lose some. Still, today I found myself pulling for the Carthaginians.
Whatever may have happened two thousand years ago, Viking Ocean Cruises gave me a win today. We started out at the ruins of a fantastically beautiful Roman ampitheater. The weather was perfect, and our guide Ali was spectacular. A gentle breeze caught the leaves and made shadows creep across two-thousand-year-old stones. The changing sunlight made the stones look alive. I wondered what stories they could tell. I just had to wonder, “Who else was here? Who competed in this arena? A slave? A professional gladiator?” There is a monument to Christians who were martyred in this arena. I thought I heard voices saying to me, “Remember us.”
Next we took the bus to the place I have waited to see since the eighth grade--the harbor of Carthage. The Phoenicians and their descendants were always sea traders. I have seen artists’ sketches of this harbor when it was new. A huge, round, man-made lake, maybe half a mile across. It could hold 220 ships, each one 20 to 30 meters long. An island in the middle served as an additional wharf so that dozens of ships could be simultaneously loaded and unloaded—ships from Spain, France, Greece, and other Mediterranean ports.
The ancient city of Carthage must have been enormous. Most of the Greek and Roman ruins we have visited could be traversed in a long walk. Today, however, we had to travel to our next destination by bus, though it was still in the city of Carthage. We saw the glorious remains of the Antonine Baths, the third largest Roman baths in the world. Built by Antonius, adopted son of Hadrian, these baths used a sophisticated system of fires beneath the main floor to heat the water where Romans would relax in their heated swimming pools and discuss the day’s affairs.
Finally we went to the lovely area called Sidi Bou Said, a trendy collection of houses and shops where every building is done in blue and white. Even the mosque where the muezzin called out the mysterious tones of the shahadeh, is blue and white. I had read in the Viking brochure that we were to come to this place, and when I saw it I could see it was beautiful, but I really didn’t know what was special about it. Then our guide told us. In 1492 the Spanish expelled all the Moors from southern Spain. I had always assumed that most went back to Africa, but it never occurred to me where in Africa they might have gone.
Today I learned. Lots of them came here.
This community was originally built by the Moors who had been expelled from Spain. Just as they called their area in Spain “Andalucia,” so they called this place “Andaluz.” Because we travel only with carry-on luggage, any souvenirs must be flat and small. Glenda walked into one of the pretty blue and white shops and came out with a small plate and a tiny bowl covered with the most exquisite Arabesque designs.
Today turned out to be a fantastic day to see one place in the world I had never seen. We were scheduled to come here in 2018, but that excursion had to be cancelled. I am so glad that I came, I saw, I learned. I know a bit more about the world now than I did when I woke up this morning. I will always be grateful to Viking for bringing us to these wonderful places to help me fill in the gaps in my understanding of the people and the places in this world. Today was fantastic, and I learned more than I ever expected. For me today was an incredible win.
Even if the Carthaginians lost.Читать далее
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- День 13
- пятница, 22 ноября 2024 г., 11:09
- 🌬 73 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
МальтаPinto Marina35°53’34” N 14°30’41” E
Thanks for the turkey

 Some passengers on our cruise have posted a Thanksgiving turkey on their room door. I confess that I usually think door decorations are rather tacky and silly. But we have come to love this turkey because whenever we get off the elevator, we know that we go to the side of the hall that has the turkey. No more having to look to see if we’re on the odd or even side of the ship, no more thinking. We just walk to the turkey and turn right. So to the passenger who put the turkey on her door, we give you hearty thanks. You’ve made our life just a little bit easier on this voyage.Читать далее
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- День 13
- пятница, 22 ноября 2024 г., 09:25
- 🌬 72 °F
- Высота: 75 фт
МальтаSur ta’ Laskaris35°53’40” N 14°30’44” E
Second Day in Malta

We had a beautiful morning, just bumping around in the city of Malta. We spent over half an hour, simply sitting in a park, and then we went to one of our favorite little bistros for a Danish pastry and espresso.Читать далее
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- День 12
- четверг, 21 ноября 2024 г., 07:14
- 🌬 66 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
МальтаSt. Lazarus Bastion35°54’3” N 14°31’18” E
Returning to Malta

There is no place in the world like Malta.
It’s hard to know where to begin in describing Malta. One could start at 5200 BC when Neolithic settlements were here. Or one might start with the event described in the Acts of the Apostles when St. Paul was shipwrecked here and converted some of the local population. You could start in Africa or in Europe. This little group of islands in the middle of the Mediterranean between Sicily and Africa contains cultural elements of both places.
Maybe you should start with their language—Maltese. It is the only Semitic language written with Roman letters. It is spoken nowhere else in the world. It sounds something like Arabic, but it looks like Latin, except for lots of strange consonant combinations, like double x’s, for example. It’s weird. And if all of that were not strange enough, Malta hosts the Military order of St. John Hospitallers, an order of knights like nothing else in the world.
This order of knights requires some explanation. As Muslim armies began to conquer North Africa and move into Europe in the eighth century, Malta was strategically important to Christendom. Being a tiny place, however, Malta later became a royal plaything, given to several noble European couples at various times as a wedding present after the Muslim tide receded.
In the sixteenth century the strategic advantages of Malta became rather important again. Piracy (and Islam) again became a problem in this part of the world, and the King of Spain, who happened to own Malta at that time, really did not have the resources to deal with the troubles occurring here. Back during the Crusades there had been an order of Knights Hospitallers commissioned by the Pope in Rome to build hospitals for crusaders who were injured in the holy wars against Muslims. Later, when the fighting near Jerusalem died down, these knights built and operated hospitals and inns for pilgrims to the Holy Land. Periodically, though, things in the Holy Land would heat up, and the Knights Hospitallers of St. John were not above picking up sword and armor in their efforts to keep the Christians in Palestine and in the Mediterranean safe. They were healers, but they were also fighters.
By the sixteenth century most of these knights had been recalled from the Holy Land back to Rome, but they were still under the control of the Pope, and they were still a commissioned military force. Spanish King Charles needed an army in Malta, and the Pope said that he just happened to have one Charles could borrow—the Knights Hospitallers of St. John.
Charles gave Malta to The Military Order of the Knights of St. John. They came here and set up military rule and started, well, to kick you-know-what. They got rid of the pirates and restored stability. At first the local population was pretty happy with the change. Things here improved under their martial law. Many churches were built (as you might expect), trade increased (the Knights Hospitallers had connections), and things were pretty good for a couple of hundred years.
By the beginning of the nineteenth century, though, the Maltese got tired of the heavy-handed rule of the knights and welcomed Napoleon’s takeover of the islands. The Knights Hospitallers of St. John were called back to Vatican City. Within just a couple of years, the French had used up Malta like an old Dixie cup, and the Maltese asked for the British to oust the French. Lord Nelson was happy to help, and Malta became a British colony around 1815 until Britain gave Malta independence in 1964.
There are lots of very interesting things about this lovely place. One of the most interesting things is that the Military Order of the Knights of St. John Hospitallers still exists. Though they do not have a nation to rule, the Military Order of the Knights of St. John Hospitallers are still a sovereign nation—with no nation! They still reside within the Vatican. A small group of them is now back in Malta, but without political power. They attend the meeting of the United Nations General Assembly, where they have voice but no vote. With the possible exception of the Vatican itself, they may be the oldest sovereign entity in the world.
Malta is beautiful. Queen Elizabeth II of England and Prince Phillip spent their honeymoon here, and I can see why. She always said that her year in Malta was the happiest time of her life. The land is lovely, but so are its buildings. We saw dozens of churches, palaces, and other baroque buildings whose opulent glory defies description. We went to three different towns on the island: Valletta, Mdina and Mosta. Each of those has a church that too beautiful for words. I will simply say that there is no place in the world like Malta. I’ve got to come back here and stay about a month.Читать далее
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- День 11
- среда, 20 ноября 2024 г., 08:58 UTC
- 🌬 68 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Tyrrhenian Sea38°31’13” N 13°32’8” E
What’s in a Name

On our last few cruises with Viking, we have noticed an uptick in the number of crew members from Africa. I love the names of our African crew members. The Christian faith in Africa is very strong and rooted in the Bible. Their faith is reflected in the names they give their children. On this cruise and our previous cruise, we have met Solomon, Blessing, Charity, Godswill, Bloodshow, Faith, Faithful, Providence, Salvation, Resurrection, Patience, Job, Jacob, Joyful, Peace, Spiritus, Trinity, Grateful, and Pentecost. Everyone of the crew members that we have met has been a perfect example of the faith they profess. May God continue to bless each and every crew member with Viking. While the ship is lovely, the amenities fabulous and the food delicious, it is the crew members that always bring us back to Viking. They are the best in every way and they are the heart and soul of Viking cruises. Читать далее
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- День 10
- вторник, 19 ноября 2024 г., 18:49 UTC
- 🌬 66 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
Tyrrhenian Sea39°17’47” N 13°4’42” E
Popcorn Juice

Chuck and I always talk about the crew on the Viking ships. They truly are the best of Viking in every way. As I’ve said 1000 times, the ships are lovely, the decor is simply beautiful Scandinavian, the food is spectacular and the ports of call are interesting and educational. But what makes Viking our number one choice is the crew. Unless it were for my safety, I’ve never heard the word “no” on a Viking ship. If they have to turn down a request, it is met with a “that is not possible but…” so that an absoutely suitable alternative is suggested. 
So why would I title this post “popcorn juice? “ Well, after over 463 days on Viking ships, I found out on Thursday that I could get fresh squeezed orange juice in the world café. It never occurred to me to ask for fresh squeezed orange juice but when I did, it was, “Oh yes ma’am I will bring it right to you.” I love fresh squeezed orange juice, and I commented when she brought my juice back to me that I wished I had known this 463 days ago of Viking trips. Lindwie smiled and said, “ Madam, all you ever have to do is ask. We will try our best to give you whatever you want. If you ask for popcorn juice they will figure out a way to make it for you”. Every morning since my first glass of freshly squeezed orange juice when I enter the world Café, it is brought to my table without my asking. Whether it is a special sorbet made for me by the pastry chef or an omelette made perfectly just for me or my favorite crackers delivered to our room just because I mentioned to someone that I loved the crackers, Viking will always go far beyond what is expected to make every dream, wish or request come true. Читать далее
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- День 10
- вторник, 19 ноября 2024 г., 15:09
- ☁️ 64 °F
- Высота: 36 фт
ИталияPiazzetta Santa Maria42°5’50” N 11°47’21” E
Charming Civitavecchia

The name of this place is Civitavecchia, which literally means “Old Town.” It is pronounced chee-vee-ta-VEK-ee-ah. There has been a village here since before anyone can remember. An Etruscan town stood here before the Romans, and another before the Etruscans. The Roman Emperor Trajan, a very effective forward-looking leader just after the time of Christ, realized that Rome would need a larger and deeper port than the one at the mouth of the Tiber River named, appropriately “Ostia,” which in Latin means “mouth.” Tons of grain were being shipped into Rome daily to feed a million mouths. The Emperor commissioned his favorite architect, Apollodorus of Damascus, to build the port here. He devised a plan with two large “welcoming arms” to surround a large harbor dug out by the hands of slaves. These structures were uniquely designed as a network of arches stacked on top of one another to make a series of what might be called cells. The Roman structures are still visible alongside of the modern piers now in use.
Today the town that has grown up beside the harbor gives a good representation of a typical Italian town forty miles from Rome. It contains the beautiful cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi and a National Museum of Archaeology, which catalogues the artifacts from the many Etruscan tombs found in the city. The is also a well maintained fort designed by Michaelangelo that is still an active post of the Italian Army. Another fortress, built by the Romans, presides over the harbor. Bette Maynard Franken and I saw the cathedral, and then we stopped at a delightful little coffee shop for a sweet roll and an espresso. Bette popped into a shop to purchase a lovely little tea towel to add to her collection. If you ever come here hope you won’t rush off to Rome without taking time to discover Civitavecchia, a little Italian jewel hidden in plain sight.Читать далее
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- День 10
- вторник, 19 ноября 2024 г., 11:49
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Высота: 236 фт
ВатиканPiazza dei Protomartiri Romani41°54’8” N 12°27’14” E
A miracle in Rome

Today Joy Wittke and I struck off for Rome on our own while Chuck and Bette were off on another excursion. We were a bit apprehensive about being dropped off in Rome and having to navigate our way to Vatican City and then to find our way back to the meeting point to come back to the ship. Joy and I did quite well with our little map and for those of you who know me, that was one of the miracles that occurred in Rome today.
We arrived at Saint Peter‘s Basilica and were inside within 40 minutes. There is no more beautiful church on earth. Whether you look up or down or left or right or directly in front of you, it is all absolutely and stunningly beautiful. This was Joy‘s first visit to Saint Peter‘s Basilica and I loved seeing it through her eyes. At noon, the organ started to play and we walked over to the altar behind the main altar where they were starting a mass. What a precious opportunity for Joy to worship in Saint Peter‘s Basilica and to receive communion there. I don’t understand Italian and so I did not understand one word of liturgy or the sermon and yet the music and the ritual spoke to my soul. For the first time since I learned of my brother Randy‘s death yesterday, I was able to sit quietly and thank God for the gift of Randy Hallman in our lives and to pray for Bradley and Angela. Randy was one of the most honorable, ethical and honest men I’ve ever known and I was blessed to call him my brother. It was good to have a few moments to grieve his passing and to thank God for the time that I had with him.  After the service we started to move back toward the meeting point and stopped for a pizza at a sidewalk Café. Joy and I did a little shopping and reached our meeting point to return to the ship with time to spare. Читать далее
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- День 10
- вторник, 19 ноября 2024 г., 09:31
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Высота: 463 фт
ИталияTarquinia42°15’0” N 11°46’5” E
Meet the Etruscans

From about 700 BC to about 300 BC a group of people lived just north of the city of Rome. They are called the Etruscans, and much of their art and culture found its way into the later Roman civilization. The first three recorded kings in Rome were Etruscan. The very name, Rome, or Roma, itself comes from an Etruscan word. The Etruscan name for the Tiber River was Ruma. They gave to the Romans such things as divination. A priest was called in to divine the location of each new Roman town around a north-south axis called the Cardo and an east-west axis called the Decumanus. This arrangement was considered lucky. Laying out a city this way was an idea begun by the Etruscans. Divination also figures into the Roman custom of reading the entrails of a slain animal. By this method Etruscan priests were supposed to be able to predict the future. Another custom that the Romans got from the Etruscans is the notion of gladiatorial combat. The Etruscans would often have ceremonial games as part of a funeral rite. In some of these combative sports participants were killed.
The name of the ancient Etruscan town we visited is called Tarquinia. That name was given recently to a medieval town that grew up nearby, but originally it was called Cornetto because of a tree which grows here called the cornet tree. One can argue that the Etruscan civilization itself was not all that advanced. They did very quickly borrow, however, from Greek, Egyptian, and African civilizations nearby.
We entered many of the tombs which the Etruscans dug into the earth. In some periods they cremated their dead and buried the remains in funerary urns shaped like their houses. At other times they laid out their deceased relatives on wooden beds surrounded by their treasures—wine jars, chariots or jewelry. Unlike Egyptian tombs, which focus on the afterlife, Etruscan tomb decorations seem to be more a review of the joys experienced by the deceased during their earthly sojourn. These tombs differed from those of Egypt in another way as well. Egyptian artists used candles to illuminate the interior of the tombs while they painted, but the Etruscan tombs show no traces of smoke or soot. Apparently they pierced the ceilings of the tombs to let in sunlight and then used mirrors to direct the light to their work areas. The walls of the tombs themselves are often covered with flowers and depictions of feasts involving every type of culinary and erotic pleasure imaginable. It is also interesting that the residue from their feasts consists of pork bones rather than beef bones. They did not eat cows or oxen because these were more valuable as beasts of burden than food. Pigs couldn’t work so they got slaughtered.
Finally we visited the National Etruscan Museum of Cornetto, which shows evidence revealing the way Etruscans borrowed from other cultures as far away as Babylonia. Mickey, our brilliant guide had a fabulous command of English, and was quoting writers as diverse as Homer, Mark Twain and William Blake. Mickey gave us such a crash course in Etruscan culture that I can honestly say this was one of the most informative excursions I have ever enjoyed.Читать далее
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- День 9
- понедельник, 18 ноября 2024 г., 07:30
- ☁️ 57 °F
- Высота: Уровень моря
ФранцияBassin de la Ville41°55’15” N 8°44’30” E
Considering Corsica

We had a very pleasant tour of the town of Ajaccio, the largest city on the island of Corsica. It started with a bus ride out to a sun-drenched beach fringed with islands. We learned that up to the discovery of the New World, this island was strategically important. The strait between Corsica and Sardinia was a crucial waterway, and this island was controlled at different times by Greece, Pisa, Genoa, Venice, Aragon, France and England. Since 1769 Corsica has been owned by France, but the language is a mix of French, Italian and native Corsican. As various invaders occupied the coast, native Corsicans were driven inland into the steep, barely penetrable mountains. Although the views are breathtaking, the sides of the hills here are so steep that roads to these remote villages are still often rendered impassable by landslides. In these isolated pockets government control was weak. Blood-feuds between warring families became a way of life until the mid-twentieth century. Historically there have been a few short periods when Corsica existed as an independent country. The longest lasted 12 years. Now there is another growing independence movement. Obviously some of the legislation passed at the National Assembly in Paris is totally irrelevant to the lives of Corsicans. President Macrom has introduced legislation to allow Corsica to establish its own Assembly, which would permit the people here to modify national laws to fit local conditions. So far, however, the National Assembly has not considered his proposal.
At the end of our tour we went into the downtown area to see the home of the Bonaparte family, where Napoleon was born. I suppose there are few historical figures as controversial as he. On one hand he was a dictator. On the other hand, every country he defeated profited from his rule. Every area he ruled experienced the same improvements. First, sanitation and health improved. Then his regime improved education. In due course they fostered science and the arts. Finally they standardized measurement using the metric system. I would like to have a long discussion with you over coffee about whether Napoleon was a genuinely benevolent dictator or just an egomaniac. One of the things I cannot forgive is his secretly abandoning his army in the desert during his Egyptian campaign. You may want to read the book “Diary of a Napoleonic Foot Soldier” by Jakob Walter. It certainly provides food for thought. It is hard to think about the consequences when a General is guilty of desertion. Whatever one’s opinion of Napoleon might be, one cannot deny that Corsica possesses a unique culture in a beautiful location.Читать далее
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- День 8
- воскресенье, 17 ноября 2024 г., 13:53
- ☀️ 61 °F
- Высота: 16 фт
ФранцияMarseille Ferry Port43°17’53” N 5°21’42” E
Marseille and Its Cathedral

The experience of the city of Marseille and that of Detroit are similar. Both were cities based on heavy industry, and in the last quarter of the twentieth century, both cities collapsed industrially and culturally. Both cities were riddled with crime and corruption. Now both cities are trying hard to come back. This city has experienced a successful transition from a an industrial economy to a service economy and it’s growing again. A major employer here is an aerospace company that manufactures light helicopters called the A-Star, now being bought by the hundreds by police departments and military organizations around the world. NYPD just bought 150, San Francisco has ordered 125, and the U. S. Border Patrol has ordered 150. The cargo port here and at neighboring Toulon receive a huge percentage of all of the goods imported into Europe.
We walked into Marseille’s lovely basilica today and noticed a difference between it and the high Gothic churches around Paris. Here on the southern coast of France, the influx of Muslims is no recent event. Muslims have been here since medieval times. It is not surprising, then, that the striped Mozarabic exterior of the church is characteristic of Moorish architecture. The basilica also shows traces of Greek Orthodox Christianity, since a considerable number of immigrants in ancient times came to this place from the eastern Mediterranean. Interestingly, one community of Franks who had settled in Asia Minor came here when defeated by Muslim hordes in the eighth century. This place is like Disney World for one interested in history. It is a rich and vibrant community that is working hard for a prosperous future. From everything we saw they are already entering the best of times.Читать далее
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- День 8
- воскресенье, 17 ноября 2024 г., 10:28
- ☀️ 52 °F
- Высота: 715 фт
ФранцияCathédrale Saint Sauveur43°31’54” N 5°26’49” E
Home Again in Aix-en-Provence

When one visits a special place numerous times it begins to feel like home. So it is with this place. We are in Aix-en-Provence. Ancient Greeks claimed this place as their colony. As the Greek culture slowly gave way to that of the Romans, the reigon slowly morphed into the first Roman province in Gaul. After Rome collapsed the residents here wanted the hairy, dirty barbarians hereabouts to know that this was an area of culture, learning and sophistication. They called this place THE province, or, in French, Provence. This town is charming. Life here is cultured, unhurried, unrushed. Surrounded by one of the most productive agricultural areas in Europe, the town's open-air markets provide cooks an abundance of the freshest meats and vegetables. It is easy to understand why French cuisine was born here.
Culinary arts are not the only arts to flourish here. Cezanne, Van Gogh and Picasso all lived and died here. All three artists are buried within a five-mile radius. Two excellent universities call Aix home. If it were not for my unapologetic prejudice for North Carolina, I might judge Aix-en-Provence to be one of the most perfect places on earth.Читать далее