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Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Title slide for today's recap ... I wonder how many have a similar photo? I know I do.
    Title slide for today's recap ... I wonder how many have a similar photo? I know I do.The second star marks where we hope to be for sunrise — Saunders Island.Saunders Island ... the peak of Mt Michael enveloped by clouds.Tomorrow's destination in the South Sandwich Islands is the South Thule Group.Fingers crossed the Douglas Strait will afford some protection for off-ship operations.Look at all the iceberg tracks in the Weddell Sea area ... our eventual destination.

    RWSE Day 8: Wrapping Up

    18 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 32 °F

    EL Sara started the daily recap with an aerial image of Saunders Island and enjoined us to get up around 4:00a tomorrow to see the island at sunrise … which will be around 4:30a. Why make the effort? Because it would be worth the loss of sleep to see the red glow in the sky from the lava lake within Mt Michael.

    So, what else will we be doing tomorrow? Well, we’ll be heading to the southernmost islands of this archipelago. EL Sara is hoping to put zodiacs in the water there. If the weather charts she showed us are to be believed, conditions won’t necessarily be calm. However, by anchoring in the Douglas Strait between the two islands, there just might be enough protection from the elements. Fingers crossed.

    Matilda then talked briefly about the “Journey of Icebergs.”

    There have been a lot of questions about a gigantic iceberg named A23a, which has been in the news a lot recently. In fact, some of the expeditions in the Falklands-South Georgia-Peninsula area, have sighted this berg, which is 40 NM long x 32 NM wide (46x37 miles). We’re nowhere near the berg, so we won’t be seeing it. (Worry not … we will see plenty of other bergs … of all sizes.)

    NASA’s Earth Observatory website describes the movement of icebergs … “When icebergs break from an ice shelf or large glacier front, they ride the ocean’s currents, spin in its eddies, shift with the tides, and are blown by the wind. Occasionally the icy drifters become stuck, grounded on a shallow part of the seafloor or trapped in a rotating mass of ocean water.” What bergs do is also impacted by what part of the continent they calve off.

    Matilda used iceberg A68a as an example in her briefing because, like A23a, it was believed to be destined to crash into South Georgia Island. Luckily, A68a disintegrated before that could happen. There is no indication that A23a will be falling apart any time soon, however, and it is still on a collision course with SGI.

    And then it was time for dinner.

    By the way, one might think that we are disappointed with our South Sandwich Island experience thus far. We aren’t. Sure, it would have been nice to see the islands against a backdrop of sunny blue skies. Sure, it would have been nice to do some kind of an off-ship operation. But flexibility in the face of adversity is something one must take to heart on an expedition of this nature. We saw more of South Sandwich today than we ever expected to see.

    We’ll see what our second day in the South Sandwich Islands brings!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Welcome to Zavodovski Island ... in the Traversay Group of the South Sandwich Islands.
    Welcome to Zavodovski Island ... in the Traversay Group of the South Sandwich Islands.And then it started snowing — Zavodovski Island, SSI.Snowy mist starts veiling the iceberg, which in the bottom photo, looks like a drowning man.Zavodovski Island is dominated by Mt Curry — South Sandwich Islands.Glimpse of the world's largest penguin colony ... these are chinstrap penguins.Zavodovski Island ... ash-covered slopes frosted with snow — South Sandwich Islands.Zavodovski Island, South Sandwich Islands.A barely-there glimpse of the peak of Mt Curry — Zavodovski Island, South Sandwich Islands.Chinstrap penguins on Zavodovski Island — South Sandwich Islands.Chinstrap penguins on Zavodovski Island — South Sandwich Islands.Zebra berg? ... the black stripes are ash embedded in the ice — Zavodovski Island, SSI.Giant petrels taking advantage of the wind — Zavodovski Island, South Sandwich Islands.An iceberg with calving remnants inside one of the caves eroded by the sea Zavodovski Island, SSI.Iceberg near Zavodovski Island — South Sandwich Islands.Mother Nature sculpting an iceberg near Zavodovski Island — South Sandwich Islands.

    RWSE Day 8: Zavodovski Island & Icebergs

    18 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌬 32 °F

    Forget seeing Zavodovski Island under blue skies as it was pictured in the presentation … it was overcast and misty when we arrived at this northernmost of the South Sandwich Islands.

    Forget doing any off-ship activities … conditions were simply too rough to put zodiacs in the water, or helicopters in the air.

    When we first sighted the island on the horizon, it did seem like Zavodovski — named after the Russian naval officer who was the first to sight it on the Bellingshausen expedition in 1819 — might welcome us with slightly ‘open arms’ … at least the sky seemed to be brightening. The peak of Mt Curry — aka Mt Asphyxia — wasn’t visible, but a big plume of steam was melding with the clouds.

    Then, it started snowing. Big, fat flakes blown about helter-skelter by the stiff wind. A mist enveloped the island and the icebergs nearby. Visibility became nil at times. But we persevered. We stayed on deck, praying for improvement. It wasn’t to be.

    Hoping to find shelter, Captain Remmert took the ship around the top of the island, and around to the east side. No luck. The island was still mostly hidden … though the strong wind occasionally pulled the veil aside to give us a glimpse of what lay beyond. At one point, we caught a barely-there glimpse of the peak. We also managed distant looks at the penguin colony on the island. (You might recall that I mentioned in the previous footprint that the world’s biggest penguin colony is on this island … home to some 2+ million chinstraps.)

    Long lenses and binoculars were essential if one was going to see anything. A serious amount of post processing saved many of the photos I took so we have some images with which to jog our memory of Zavodovski Island when we think of today in the years to come.

    There was one aspect of our experience not captured in my images. The smell … occasional whiffs of sulphur from the volcano … followed by the stench of ammonia as we got closer to the penguin colony, especially as we passed the accurately named Reek Point. No wonder Zavadovski has many landmarks that bring to mind less-than-pleasant smells … Pungent Point, Stench Point, and Noxious Bluff, just to name a few.

    Rather than waste time here hoping for improved conditions, EL Sara announced that we would continue on our way. We remained on deck, enjoying the icebergs that studded the seascape. I did say that there would be more icebergs … and closer to Ortelius, too!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Hello Visokoi Island — South Sandwich Islands.
    Hello Visokoi Island — South Sandwich Islands.Rivers of ice streaming down the flanks of Mt Hodson — Visokoi Island, South Sandwich Islands.A nearby iceberg tempers our disappointment in Visokoi hiding itself from our eyes.

    RWSE Day 8: Visokoi Island

    18 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 32 °F

    The next island in the South Sandwich Islands — Visokoi — is in the Traversay Group … same as Zavodovski. It is another mass of land that was discovered by the 1819 Bellingshausen expedition.

    Visokoi, when we reached it about an hour after leaving Zavodovski, didn’t afford a much better view of itself than did its group-mate. Though its name is a Russian word that means high, I couldn’t swear to that … the top of Mt Hodson, which dominates the island, was enveloped by a cloud that was parked over it. Once again, we had to be satisfied with seeing the flanks … down which rivers of ice were streaming … some of them terminating where the Scotia Sea meets the coastline.

    There was no question that conditions were unsuitable for off-ship activities. The decision to keep going was made quickly, Ortelius barely slowing down.

    Hoping that the southernmost islands of the chain, which we’ll be reaching tomorrow afternoon, will be more hospitable, we headed up to the lounge for the daily recap.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Initially Sandwich Land; south added to differentiate from Sandwich Island as Hawaii was once known.
    Initially Sandwich Land; south added to differentiate from Sandwich Island as Hawaii was once known.The South Sandwich Islands are some of the remotest lands on earth.The northernmost island in the SSI chain ... and our destination today.Mt Curry ... aka Mt Asphyxia ... appropriately nicknamed for the suffocating fumes it spews.Just some of the 2 million plus chinstrap penguins at the world's largest colony in the world.Discovered on February 2, which is Candlemas Day ... hence the name — South Sandwich Islands.The name refers to the fact that initially Cook's reports were not believed — SSI.Mt Michael, which makes up much of the island, has a lava lake in its summit crater.One of the islets near Bristol Island; formed through coastal erosion.Mount Belinda, on Montagu Island, was dormant until 2001 when it erupted ... for six years — SSI.Features the oldest rocks in the SSI and an active volcano that last erupted in 2016.The three southernmost islands of the SSI chain that make up the South Thule Group.The Central and largest island of the South Thule Group — SSI.Named for the mythical land that ancient geographers believed was at the extreme end of the Earth.

    RWSE Day 8: Allan Introduces Us to SSI

    18 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 32 °F

    “Mystery creates wonder, and wonder is the basis of a man’s desire to understand …” ~~ Neil Armstrong ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    As Ortelius continued south, we continued to add to our knowledge base with Allan’s presentation … “Introduction to South Sandwich Islands.” His slides included some amazing aerial photographs, which were provided to him by the BFSAI [British Forces South Atlantic Islands, formerly known as British Forces Falkland Islands (BFFI)].

    Part of the British Overseas Territory, this archipelago consists of 11 islands — in 4 groupings — laid out in a roughly reverse-crescent shape. Anyone interested in the list of islands can look them up. I’ll just say that the southernmost 8 islands were discovered by Captain James Cook during his 1775 expedition. But no one believed Cook until his findings were corroborated by Bellinghausen when he discovered the remaining three islands in the north in 1819.

    Considered to be one of the most remote and inhospitable regions of the world, the SSI are difficult to visit and rarely does an expedition vessel attempt to do so.

    In addition to the storms that often batter the SSI, snow and ice permanently cover 85% of the combined landmass. And then there are the violent earthquakes — usually 7+ on the Richter scale — and the active volcanos that spew suffocating gases. One such volcano — Mt Curry (on Zavodovski Island) — is more often referred to as Mt Asphyxia for this reason. Of course, let’s not forget the stench from the guano at the world’s biggest penguin colony that is bound to make landings unpleasant.

    All that said, the slim chance that we might be able to visit these islands — even if it was just with a cruise-by — was one of the primary reasons we, in fact, booked this expedition.

    The BFSAI photos all showed the islands in beautiful weather. We have been assured that kind of weather is most definitely a rarity. I expect we will not be seeing them under such conditions. We’ll find out one way or the other when we get to the northernmost island in the chain later this afternoon.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Woke up to snow on deck — heading south through the Scotia Sea.
    Woke up to snow on deck — heading south through the Scotia Sea.Woke up to snow on deck — heading south through the Scotia Sea.I was taking a photo of the snow ... can't help it if that tabular iceberg photo-bombed it 🤣Woke up to snow on deck — heading south through the Scotia Sea."Admiral, there be whales here!" ... Trekkies will well remember this quote.

    RWSE Day 8: Snow & Whales

    18 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 32 °F

    “Mystery creates wonder, and wonder is the basis of man’s desire to understand …” ~~ Neil Armstrong ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    We are continuing south through the Scotia Sea.

    We’ve been rockin’ and rollin’ since leaving Gold Harbour yesterday for open waters. I expect these conditions will continue pretty much until we reach the continent and get into the ice.

    The sky was bright when we woke up; the sun was out. There was just enough snow to frost the decks. The blue sky gave us hope for the day ahead. No such luck. By the time we were finished with breakfast, the sky was downright dull.

    Big icebergs are on the horizon. There will be more … and they will be much closer. So I am keeping a promise I made to myself … I am limiting my iceberg photos on this trip until then. Same with whales. I captured the blows of a couple of fin whales in the distance this morning, and the dorsal fin of one of them. But only because I was already out on deck taking memory-shots of the snow with my iPhone. We’ve had so many wonderful, close-up experiences with these giants of the oceans … I am not going to add a whole bunch of blows to that inventory. Better to just watch them and enjoy the fact that the whales seem to be everywhere around us.

    Time to head up to the lounge for a special presentation about the South Sandwich Islands.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    That's almost identical to a photo I took at the Gold Harbour king penguin colony.
    That's almost identical to a photo I took at the Gold Harbour king penguin colony.Chart showing our next destination ... South Sandwich Islands.This photo came with a warning not to expect to see Zavodovski as pictured here!Looks like it's going to be a bit breezy when we get to Zavodovski Island.Suckling Antarctic fur seal pup ... has to put on weight quickly to survive!A genetic mutation causes the rare brown gentoo penguin.The preferred food of the king penguins.Today we consider whaling one of the worst jobs in the world.

    RWSE Day 7: Wrapping Up

    17 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 36 °F

    As Ortelius left SGI behind, EL Sara came on the P/A with a warning. The sea state in the Scotia Sea was expected to be in the 9 to 13 feet range (3-4m). One hand to the ship was the order of the day.

    After lunch, Tennessee had a follow-on practice session in the bridge for those who had attended his sextant & navigation workshop. That meant free time for Mui and me. A lazy afternoon was just what the doctor ordered after our consecutive landings over the past three days.

    At 6:15p, we joined the rest of the passengers and the expedition team for the daily recap.

    EL Sara jump started things by announcing hoped-for-plans for our next destination — the South Sandwich Islands. She expects that we will reach Zavodovski Island, the northernmost landmass in the chain of islands, sometime tomorrow afternoon. She tempered our excitement by reminding us that Mother Nature will make the final decision on what off-ship activities we can or can’t do … hence the ‘hoped-for’ plans that are always part and parcel of an expedition. Nothing to do but 🤞🏻.

    Recap continued with briefing snippets by the expedition team.

    Gary elaborated on a few things we’ve seen over the past few days — (1) suckling fur seal pup … Antarctic fur seal mums in South Georgia suckle their pups for 1-2 days before they head to sea to feed themselves for 3-5 days … they then return to nurse the pup … this continues for about 4 months and then the pup is on its own!; (2) a gentoo with brownish feathers on the beach at Gold Harbor … caused by a genetic mutation that affects the production of melanin pigments.

    Chloé enlightened us about the lantern fish, the preferred food of the king penguins … there are about 245 species of this fish!

    Tennessee wrapped up by talking a bit about what we consider ‘the world’s worst job’ these days … sealing and whaling … and how these animals were hunted for their blubber and skin … especially fur seals.

    Off to have dinner now … I’m hungry since I skipped lunch!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    I spot an iceberg floating by our landing beach — Gold Harbour, SGI.
    I spot an iceberg floating by our landing beach — Gold Harbour, SGI.Back aboard Ortelius one last look at Gold Harbour — SGI.More icebergs … as we leave South Georgia Island.Iceberg near and far keep me on deck as Ortelius sails from South Georgia Island.Heading south to the Scotia Sea.Icebergs are Mother Nature's sculptures.Leaving South Georgia Island with icebergs to keep us company.

    RWSE Day 7: Bidding SGI Farewell

    17 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean ❄️ 37 °F

    Even as we returned from our landing at Gold Harbour to Ortelius, I spotted icebergs on the horizon. My shutter finger started itching. We had just enough time, however, to change out of our landing gear before lunch was announced. But the icebergs made the decision for me. Food could wait. An ‘icebergy farewell’ to South Georgia Island — which treated us kindly — could not.

    Yeah, yeah … it’s that ‘ice virus’ thing once again.

    I donned my parka, and went out on deck with my camera!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    1Grooming king penguin portrait — Gold Harbour, SGI.
    1Grooming king penguin portrait — Gold Harbour, SGI.The beach scene near our landing site — Gold Harbour, SGI.Elephant seals sharpening their fighting skills — Gold Harbour, SGI."Excuse me," says the king penguins to the fur seal in their way — Gold Harbour, SGI.Scenery + wildlife who ignore us = an amazing landing — Gold Harbour, SGI.This is the penguin version of hiding your head in the sand 😄 — Gold Harbour, SGI.The elephant seal on the right photo-bombed my portrait shot of the elephant seal on the left.The skua is not guarding the colony; it's looking for a chance to steal an egg or a chick.These kings are determined to keep the skua from stealing an egg or a chick.Snowy Sheathbill — Gold Harbour, SGI.We're going where the people are ... we have to skirt the colony & go through the tussock first."Hey Mui, over here" ... as we go through the tussock — Gold Harbour, SGI.1Battling the tussock grass is worth it to see this amazing view — Gold Harbour, SGI.Yes, we made it to the main body of the colony — Gold Harbour, SGI.Can you see the king penguin eggs and the chicks? — Gold Harbour, SGI.Chicks ... still on the parent's feet; feeding the chick (lower right) — Gold Harbour, SGI.Molting penguins ... a stressful annual event for penguins — Gold Harbour, SGI.Molting gentoo; front-most penguin is carrying in its beak a gift for its mate to add to the nest.A closer look at a gentoo penguin's webbed foot and claws — Gold Harbour, SGI.A closer look at the proboscis of an elephant seal ... this guy is still fairly young — Gold HarbourPenguins and ice ... two of the things that keep bringing us back to this part of the world.Our chariot to Ortelius is ready, but the gentoos have the right of way ... so we wait!

    RWSE Day 7: Gold Harbour Landing

    17 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ☁️ 37 °F

    SGI’s Gold Harbour was known by several names, but the one that stuck — and the one by which we know it today — was the one used by whalers and sealers. Why did they so name this small bay? Not because gold was mined here. Rather because the rising sun bathes Bertrab Glacier in a golden hue. We’ve not had the privilege of seeing that happen, but I like the history behind the name.

    Our days on an expedition generally start early. Today started even earlier … by 8:00a, we were already ashore, receiving our briefing for the landing.

    Remember how I wrote in the previous footprint that we landed here in 2007, too? Well, true enough. Except that this time we landed on the far side of the beach … further from the glacier streaming down the mountainside … but closer to the king penguin breeding colony that is said to be 50,000 strong. The first time around, we visited the penguins around a lake. This time, we actually got to visit the colony.

    This penguin colony ranges from the tussock grass at the foothills of the mountains all the way to the edge of the beach. We had to cross the beach and follow the path laid out amongst the tussac grass to a slightly elevated area overlooking the colony. Sounds easy, right? Except that the grass at times was over five-feet tall … which means that in many places I could barely see over the clumps. And underfoot it was muddy and slippery.

    But that was the easy part as it turns out! On the beach, we had to dodge curious penguins that seemed bound and determined to check us out … often making it difficult to maintain the 5m requirement set by IAATO. Then there were the fur seals wanting to challenge us; elephant seals that were sleeping in a pile … some of the young males play-fighting to sharpen their skills so they can one day become beach masters. And let’s not forget the king penguins at the edge of the colony, screeching and pecking at skuas that were getting too close to their eggs and young chicks. All very distracting … all providing wonderful photo ops.

    Our landing was fantastic. All the more so because we were lucky to be able to land here at all. EL Sara later told us that Gold Harbour was so badly hit by avian flu that it was a mass-casualty site … to the extent that last year they weren’t even allowed to zodiac-cruise along the beachfront if the wind was blowing from the land toward the sea! So glad that avian flu no longer has such a terrible hold on this amazing site … though the epidemic is far from over.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    A lovely sunrise ... from our anchorage — Gold Harbour, SGI.
    A lovely sunrise ... from our anchorage — Gold Harbour, SGI.Panoramic look around our last landing location — Gold Harbour, SGI.The beach is once again filled with wildlife ... including king penguins — Gold Harbour, SGI.Bertrab Glacier — Gold Harbour, SGI.Selfie from the ship before we head down for our zodiac transfer ashore — Gold Harbour, SGI.A closer look at one arm of Bertrab Glacier — Gold Harbour, SGI.The other arm of Bertrab Glacier — Gold Harbour, SGI.The entire glacier has receded quite a bit; especially noticeable in the circled area — Gold Harbour

    RWSE Day 7: Ahoy … Gold Harbour

    17 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ❄️ 36 °F

    “Visually and emotionally, the island of South Georgia overwhelms. At first glance, it resembles the far south Atlantic branch of Dr. Doolittle’s fantastic zoo: a profusion of captivating animals that quickly transforms even the most discriminating observer into a raving anthropomorphic.” ~~ Ron Naveen ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    In 2007, we did a number of landings and zodiac cruises in South Georgia … 11, to be exact … over a period of four days.

    They were all wonderful, but some of them were especially memorable — King Haakon Bay … where Shackleton and five of his men landed after the grueling trip from Elephant Island; Cape Rosa & Cave Cove … where three of Shackleton’s men sought shelter while he and two others crossed the mountains to seek help at the Stromness Whaling Station; Prion Island … where we trekked up muddy paths through tussock grass to sit with breeding wandering albatrosses; Salisbury Plain … one of the three largest king penguin colonies at the time, with its population nearly doubled by the presence of all the chicks in their fluffy brown baby coats.

    Then there was our landing at Gold Harbour! In the aftermath of our trip, when asked about our favorite landing, Gold Harbour was always the first one that came to mind. Why? Was it all the critters amongst which we walked. Was it the spectacular scenery … Bertrab Glacier flowing down the mountain? Was it the weather … with temps high enough for us to wander sans parkas? Was it simply the fact that it was the last time we set foot on SGI? All of the above I would say.

    Our landing today — again our last one in SGI — did not disappoint … even if Bertrab Glacier has receded noticeably in the intervening years since we were here last.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Welcome to the landing beach at St Andrews Bay — SGI.
    Welcome to the landing beach at St Andrews Bay — SGI.Heading off to visit the main colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Fur Seal — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Steve, one of the lead dive guides, helps Mui across the fast-flowing creek — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Skua checking out the pole that marks our path to the colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Skua — St Andrews Bay, SGI.King penguins ... on our way to the main colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Molted penguin feathers ... this is an annual occurrence for penguins — St Andrews Bay, SGI.WOW! The world's biggest king penguin colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Selfie time ... world's biggest king penguin colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.One of the glaciers that once reached all the way to the sea — St Andrews Bay, SGI.2King penguins generally keep a flipper distance from each other — St Andrews Bay, SGI.2King penguins on the ridge above the main colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Most of the chicks have molted, but there are still some in their brown baby coats — St Andrews Bay.This chick is hoping the adult will feed it — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Mariners of old called the king penguin chicks Oakum Boys — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Giant petrel fishing out a fur seal carcass — St Andrews Bay, SGI.King penguins and Ortelius — St Andrews Bay, SGI.2On the way back, some of us crossed the creek as a group — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Skua in B&W — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Our landing beach is being used by king penguins coming back from the sea — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Zodiac cruise along the beach that fronts the king penguin colony — St Andrews Bay, SGI.

    RWSE Day 6: St Andrews Bay Landing

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ⛅ 39 °F

    St Andrews Bay is more of a bight than a bay. Though it was named in the early 20th century, it is believed that Captain James Cook’s 1775 expedition was the first to sight this scenic bay … rimmed with mountains and glaciers.

    The bay is wide … and open to the elements. So much so that landings here are very much at the mercy of Mother Nature … as we found out in 2007 … when a strong katabatic wind came out of nowhere and we found ourselves “all layered up with nowhere to go.”

    Today, Mother Nature gave us permission to land at the world’s largest king penguin colony … at present 150,000 breeding pairs + chicks + solos. In addition, there are fur and elephant seals, giant petrels, skuas, and a number of other birds here.

    Since the beach that fronts the colony has been taken over by the penguins, we landed at a smaller beach where the surf was more conducive to a wet landing. Then, following the red poles along the inland side of the beach, we began our hike to a ridge that overlooks the main king penguin colony. Of course, there were stops along the way to take photos and shoo away fur seals that wanted to show off.

    Then came a fast-flowing meltwater creek. The water wasn’t particularly deep, but the current was very strong. The two lead dive guides helped us negotiate the creek, and soon, we were hiking up tussac-covered hills … not the easiest feat with the bulky muck boots on our feet. But the sight of over 300,000 penguins all gathered in one place was most definitely worth the effort. What a spectacular place!

    The last zodiac back to the ship was at 7:30p … giving us three hours to explore the site. We were told, however, that anyone who returned to the landing beach before 7:00p would be able to go on a zodiac cruise along the front edge of the colony. So, we timed our return accordingly. A different perspective of the world’s biggest king penguin colony and a fantastic wrap up to our day!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The glacier in the distance still terminates at the edge of the water — St Andrews Bay, SGI.
    The glacier in the distance still terminates at the edge of the water — St Andrews Bay, SGI.The potential for calvings at the terminus means this part of the colony is off-limits to us.King penguins at the terminus of the glacier — St Andrews Bay, SGI.King penguins at the terminus of the glacier — St Andrews Bay, SGI.We are hoping to hike to the ridge (right) to look down over the main king penguin colony.2The main colony ... too many penguins on this beach, so we will land on another beach — St Andrews.1Another view of the main colony ... from the ship — St Andrews Bay, SGI.A patch of blue gives us hope that the skies will be clearing — St Andrews Bay, SGI.Ortelius from the zodiac — St Andrews Bay, SGI.And we are off — St Andrews Bay, SGI.

    RWSE Day 6: Ahoy … St Andrews Bay

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ☁️ 39 °F

    Ortelius made good time while we were at the daily recap, and arrived at its anchorage in St Andrews Bay around 3:00p.

    The expedition team went into action immediately, setting off in the zodiacs to do their usual recon of the landing site … ensuring the landing beach was not crowded with wildlife; setting up a path for us to follow to the main colony; checking for evidence of avian flu.

    While they were doing their thing, we got into our ‘landing layers’ … including our muck boots, parkas, and zodiac life vests. Then, we went on deck … not only so we didn’t overheat while we waited for the zodiac ops to begin, but also to see what we could see of the world’s largest king penguin colony.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Welcome to today's recap ... earlier than usual.
    Welcome to today's recap ... earlier than usual.Poor thing ... covered in burrs ... seen in Grytviken.The third star on the map is where we will be landing this afternoon.2The weather is not looking so great for where we have been; but is good for where we will be.This will be the view that greets us when we arrive in Gold Harbour, SGI.Jens tells us all about the Santa Fe.Captain Felix Artuso is the only Argentinian buried at the Whalers Cemetery in Grytviken.Clara tells us about some of the endemic algae species at SGI.Letter from the authorities ... making the 100% biosecurity clearance official.

    RWSE Day 6: Mid-Day Recap

    16 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌧 39 °F

    Since we have a second landing today — scheduled for this afternoon — EL Sara moved the daily recap up … to immediately after lunch.

    Looks like there is a weather system moving in over SGI. That’s the bad news. But there is good news … the area where we will be operating tomorrow will still be in the clear 🤞🏻.

    An early recap meant that we also got advance notice of tomorrow’s landing site — Gold Harbour. Mui and I did a landing there in 2007 and it was one of our favorites. We are looking forward to re-visiting the penguins and other critters at Gold Harbour … and are interested to see how the glaciers and colonies compare to what we saw 18 years ago.

    Expedition team members followed up with their tidbits.

    Jens told us the story of the Santa Fe, an Argentinian submarine that was used during the Falklands War … how the captain, Felix Artuso, was killed by the Brits who thought he was scuttling the boat, when he was in fact trying to save it … how Artuso was buried at the Grytviken cemetery with full military honors.

    Clara then gave a brief presentation about the algae forests that can grow up to 18” per day and reach heights of 150 feet.

    Oh, by the way, there is an Oceanwide Expeditions tradition when a vessel receives a 100% rating for biosecurity measures in SGI. Can you say happy hour and free drinks? The celebration is being postponed until tomorrow, however, since we will be ashore, communing with penguins today.

    Time to go put our layers on and prepare for another landing.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Molting gentoo penguin and fur seal — Grytviken, SGI.
    Molting gentoo penguin and fur seal — Grytviken, SGI.Molting king penguins — Grytviken, SGI.Napping elephant seals — Grytviken, SGI.Sleeping fur seal amid whaling station artifacts — Grytviken, SGI.Elephant seal waking up to pose nicely — Grytviken, SGI.Sleeping elephant seals — Grytviken, SGI.Suckling fur seal pup — Grytviken, SGI.Giant petrels and a skua amid whaling station artifacts — Grytviken, SGI.Giant petrels feeding on the carcass of a fur seal — Grytviken, SGI.Giant petrels feeding on a fur seal carcass — Grytviken, SGI.Giant Petrel — Grytviken, SGI.Fur seals posing without a fuss — Grytviken, SGI.Molting king penguins — Grytviken, SGI.Elephant seal napping in the water — Grytviken, SGI.Fur seal and a whaling ship anchor — Grytviken, SGI.Elephant seals napping away from the water — Grytviken, SGI.

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … the Critters

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌧 39 °F

    Yes, the last footprint had us leaving Grytviken on a zodiac. But how can I not post some photos of the wildlife 😊 So, here goes.

    Compared to when we visited Grytviken in 2007, today there was a lot fewer wildlife to distract us from exploring the whaling station and the South Georgia Museum.

    The wildlife here — not just the penguins and other birds, but the seals as well — have been heavily impacted by the avian flu. In fact, when we came ashore, the expedition guide who gave us our briefing, pointed out areas to stay clear of because there were animals that were showing symptoms of avian flu. The path to the cemetery, which was closed at the height of the epidemic due to large numbers of dead seals, was open today … an indication perhaps that the worst is now in the past.

    Nonetheless, as we meandered around the station, we did find healthy critters that were happy to pose for us … intentionally or not.

    (Word to the Wise: There is a video and a couple of photos of giant petrels feeding that might not be for the squeamish.)    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Dias & Albatros ... whaling/sealing vessels — Grytviken, SGI.
    Dias & Albatros ... whaling/sealing vessels — Grytviken, SGI.Puddles from last night's rain affords opportunities for reflections — Grytviken, SGI.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.Meat Cookery — Grytviken, SGI.Fur seal amidst the chains used to pull whale carcasses ashore for processing.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.Petrel ... another one of the whaling vessels — Grytviken, SGI.Petrel ... reflection and harpoon gun — Grytviken, SGI.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.At Shackleton's grave at the Whalers Cemetery — Grytviken, SGI.Shackleton & Wild's graves ... bottom is the poem on the back of Shackleton's headstone — Grytviken.The Whaler's Church was built in 1913 — Grytviken, SGI.Whalers Church — Grytviken, SGI.Whalers Church — Grytviken, SGI.Carolyn, a fellow-passenger, singing in the Whalers Church — Grytviken, SGI.1The library is in a room behind the altar ... Whalers Church — Grytviken, SGI.Leaving the Whalers Church — Grytviken, SGI.Whalers Church ... in stark contrast to rusty-old tanks that once held whale oil — Grytviken, SGI.Whaling station artifacts at Grytviken, SGI.Bye bye Grytviken, SGI.

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … Whaling Station

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌧 39 °F

    As I previously mentioned, South Georgia Island was a hub of the whaling industry. During that time, 175,000+ whales were hunted and processed at several whaling stations along the coastline.

    Established in 1904 by Carl Anton Larsen, Grytviken was the site of the first permanent whaling station on SGI. The whalers weren’t the first to work out of here, however. During the 19th century, sealers operated from Grytviken … which, in Swedish, means Pot Bay … a reference to the old try-pots found here that were used to render oil from blubber.

    Historic records indicate that during the course of the 60 years that the Grytviken station operated, over 54,000 whales were processed here … one of them a nearly 112-foot long blue whale that was caught in 1912 … the largest on record.

    The station ruins at Grytviken were cleaned up between 2005-2007. Once the hazardous materials were removed, visitors were welcomed. That timing makes us one of the first to visit the station when we made a landing here in January 2007.

    Today, we came ashore on a beach near the rusty hulls of the Dias and Albatros … both having served here first as whalers and later as sealers. As we wandered around the ruins of the station, making our way to the cemetery, we recognized several station artifacts from our previous visit. Others were new-to-us … perhaps because our attention in 2007 had been captured by the critters. The rusted out condition of the artifacts, however, signaled that they had been here for quite some time and borne the brunt of the storms that batter SGI on a regular basis.

    The cemetery is one of the must-visit sites in Grytviken. On the outskirts of the former station, it is here that Shackleton was interred after his death in 1922 … on his last Antarctic quest … he did not make it beyond SGI that time. He was buried here at the request of his wife.

    In 2007, we toasted the ‘Boss’ with vodka … we were on a Russian ship after all. This time the toast was made with whiskey, and Tennessee, our expedition historian and a Shackleton buff, read a passage honoring the life of the explorer.

    Another must-visit site is the church, which is located behind the whaling station … near the foothills of the jagged mountains. Constructed by the Norwegians in 1913, it was pre-fabricated in Norway and erected by the whalers here in Grytviken. Our timing was perfect as we got to hear Carolyn, a fellow-passenger, singing in the church. In addition to being a place of worship, the church was at times used as a library, a movie theater, and a store.

    By the time we walked out of the church, it was time to make our way to the landing beach … the last zodiac back to the ship was about to leave.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    The former station manager's villa now houses the South Georgia Museum — Grytviken, SGI.
    The former station manager's villa now houses the South Georgia Museum — Grytviken, SGI.The James Caird played an important role in the Endurance saga — Grytviken, SGI.James Caird ... the open boat was closed with a makeshift deck for the 800-mile crossing to SGI.Diving equipment of old times — Grytviken, SGI.Transfer basket used to transfer goods and people between ships — Grytviken, SGI.Whale sculpture made from scrap metal at the whaling station by Helen Denerley — Grytviken, SGI.The wingspan of a wandering albatross can measure up to 11.5 feet — Grytviken, SGI.Taxidermy of a ten-day old wandering albatross chick that was found frozen in its nest — Grytviken.The endemic South Georgia pin tail duck will eat meat that it scavenges from seal carcasses.Whale vertebra; sperm whale eye lens; fin whale baleen; sperm whale teeth; whale vertebra disks.Replica room in the manager's villa — Grytviken, SGI.4Shackleton bronze funeral wreaths, including one from King George (top R) and banner.Fur seals sleeping next to a try-pot — Grytviken, SGI.Fur seals playing amongst the try-pots — Grytviken, SGI.Fur seal pups and a whale skull — Grytviken, SGI.Steam-driven bone saw used in processing whales hunted in these waters — Grytviken, SGI.

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … SG Museum

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌧 37 °F

    We received a 100% rating!

    The effort put in by the passengers, the expedition team, and the ships’ crew and staff to comply with SGI’s biosecurity measures paid off. With zero infractions, we received the stamp of approval and a letter authorizing us to go ashore not just at Grytviken, but at other SGI landing sites as well. Two thumbs up!

    Ferried ashore by zodiacs, we had a number of things that we could do in Grytviken. When we visited in 2007, we were so enamored of the wildlife that we did not have time to pay much attention to either the museum or the station itself. Our goal this time was to reverse what we did last time and head to the museum first.

    The South Georgia Museum, housed in what was once the villa of the manager of the Grytviken whaling station, opened in 1992. There is also a post office, but we had no need to go there, so we skipped it.

    At the museum, we wandered around the exhibits about the history of the island — before, during, and after the whaling period; checked out some of the taxidermied species … of which the albatross that died from natural causes on Bird Island is probably the most popular; read about life here when it was a hamlet; and refreshed our memory with respect to Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton’s connection to the island … not the least of which is the fact that he is buried here in Grytviken.

    Entirely new to us this time was an adjunct building in which we found a replica of the James Caird, the small boat that was taken off Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, before it was crushed in the ice. The boat played an important role in the Endurance saga … carrying Shackleton and five other men some 800 miles across the Southern Ocean to then mount the rescue of the men left on Elephant Island.

    (If you are not familiar with all this about Shackleton and Endurance … I have a slide show of sorts from our 2007 visit at this link … https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Antarctica/Falklands…).

    A quick wander amongst the whaling artifacts on the lawn was next … from try-pots used to render oil from blubber obtained from seals to a steam-driven bone saw … amongst which fur seals played. Then we headed off to explore the ruins of the old whaling station. More on that in the next footprint.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    White buildings = research station; in the mist on the left are the whaling station ruins.
    White buildings = research station; in the mist on the left are the whaling station ruins.Today's visit will be our second time at Grytviken — SGI.Including eradicating the rat population; removing the introduced reindeers.Using dogs to inspect incoming vessels to ensure rats are not reintroduced onto SGI.Additional protections for sensitive sites, such as the wandering penguin rookery on Prion Island.New projects being initiated with regards to the island's whaling history.Restoring the Stromness manager's villa where Shackleton arrived from Elephant Island.In remembrance of the 175,000 whales that were hunted and processed at the SGI whaling stations.Removing things like asbestos and fuel from the old whaling stations.And on that note ... time to bundle up and go ashore in Grytviken.

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … Heritage Trust

    16 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌧 37 °F

    “Human effort is not futile, but man fights against the giant force of nature in a spirit of humility.” ~~ Sir Ernest Shackleton ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    We arrived at our anchorage in Cumberland Bay during breakfast. Grytviken — once a whaling station and now the government seat, if you will, for the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands — was off in the distance. The morning was misty. Snow was spitting. Those conditions, however, would be changing soon enough.

    While the Captain and our Expedition Leader [EL] Sara dealt with the formalities that would allow us to go ashore, we gathered in the bar for a presentation by a member of the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

    The mission of the Trust is twofold … as described on its website …

    “ To help efforts to conserve and protect those species of indigenous fauna and flora that breed and grow on South Georgia or in the surrounding seas and to raise awareness of South Georgia’s threatened species;

    * To assist efforts to preserve the historical heritage of South Georgia, including selected historical sites of importance, and increase international awareness of the human history of the island through the South Georgia Museum.”

    An interesting glimpse into projects — past, present, and future — in which the Trust is involved.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Southern blue whale ... the world's largest mammal ... ever — SGI.
    Southern blue whale ... the world's largest mammal ... ever — SGI.Recap slide with king penguins from today's landing at Right Whale Bay, SGI.The first star is where we landed today; the second one is where we will land tomorrow morning.Only two areas on SGI look to have good weather tomorrow ... we hope to land at both.

    RWSE Day 5: Wrapping Up

    15 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌧 36 °F

    What a day this turned out to be! From our scenic arrival cruise along the northwest coast of SGI to our landing at amazing Right Whale Bay … it was truly a spectacular bay.

    But it wasn’t just this that made for a memorable day. En route, we had a number of whale sightings … mostly blows and dorsal fins at a distance. But then … we were graced by the presence of the world’s largest mammal (ever) … the southern blue whale! My camera has a long lens, but isn’t necessarily a speedy one. However, some generous soul shared a photo at recap.

    Speaking of the recap, today it was a short one following our return from our four-hour landing at Right Whale Bay. Sara explained the plan for tomorrow … two landings anticipated; one in Grytviken and another at St Andrews Bay. The latter is especially weather-dependent … as we know from our visit in 2007 when a sudden katabatic wind called a halt to the zodiac operations that would have taken us there.

    An early dinner and then a repeat of the biosecurity checks in preparation for the official inspection tomorrow! We are aiming for 100% compliance 🤞🏻    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    King penguins and fur seals in scenic Right Whale Bay — SGI.
    King penguins and fur seals in scenic Right Whale Bay — SGI.A king penguin "giving the evil beak" to a rowdy fur seal pup — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Fur seal on a whale bone ... a relic from the island's whaling times — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A pair of skuas — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Elephant seal — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A fur seal playfully turns over on its back — Right Whale Bay, SGI.2View of the king penguin colony from the ridge ... with fur seals in the tussock — Right Whale Bay.Right Whale Bay king penguin colony on SGI.King penguins tend to stay a flipper-length away from each other — Right Whale Bay, SGI.One of the few penguin chicks still in its 'baby coat' — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Can you find the molting king penguin chick? It will soon be ready to go swimming — Right Whale Bay.Penguin colonies are rarely quiet ... this one is no exception — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A king penguin chick that is still molting its 'baby coat' — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A pair of king penguins sleeping with their beaks tucked in behind their flippers — Right Whale Bay.A closer look at the 'manicure' of a king penguin — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A couple of molting gentoo penguins are keeping a molting king penguin company — Right Whale Bay.Elephant seals molt as well — Right Whale Bay, SGI.A fur seal sleeping on its back in the tussock — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Fur seals and elephant seals (sorry, too much wind noise so had to cut the audio) — Right Whale Bay.King penguins strolling through the water — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Time to go hunting for food — Right Whale Bay, SGI.Curious king penguins invade our landing site, so we have to wait for them to leave.

    RWSE Day 5: Right Whale Bay Landing

    15 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ☁️ 36 °F

    South Georgia Island has a long — but thankfully no longer active — whaling history. In fact, the bay where we made our landing today is named after the Southern Right Whale. Right, not for the direction (as in left or right). Rather, right in the sense of being the best type of whale to go after as this species swims slowly, and when killed, floats on the water … thus making them easy to hunt and process.

    But our wet landing at a black sand and pebble beach today had nothing to do with that sad chapter in SGIs history … and everything to do with a king penguin colony that is estimated as having 25,000 breeding pairs … as well as fur seals, elephant seals, skuas, giant petrels, and even some gentoo penguins.

    The Right Whale Bay of today is a picturesque and ecologically significant site. We managed not to get too distracted by the penguins and seals on the beach and hiked up a tussac-covered hill to a ridge that gave us an expansive view of the main colony before going down for a closer look … always cognizant of keeping the 5m distance from wildlife that is mandated by IAATO. Not so easy to do, I might add, when you have naturally curious penguins wanting to get a closer look at us and playful fur seals wanting to practice their attack skills by charging us.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Welcome to South Georgia Island ... a British Overseas Territory.
    Welcome to South Georgia Island ... a British Overseas Territory.Icebergs at South Georgia Island.Icebergs at South Georgia Island.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.South Georgia Island ... arrival.Photo bombed by a fur seal while taking a photo of an iceberg. Can you find the seal?On our way in to Right Whale Bay ... the site of our afternoon landing on SGI.On our way in to Right Whale Bay ... the site of our afternoon landing on SGI.Can you spot the Right Whale Bay king penguin colony that we will be visiting on SGI?Right Whale Bay ... our first time visiting this part of SGI ... what a place!A closer look at the king penguin colony — Right Whale Bay, SGI.And an even closer look at the king penguin colony — Right Whale Bay, SGI.And a really closer look at some of the king penguins at the Right Whale Bay colony — SGI.Scenery + penguins = a landing that is bound to be special.Let's go see the penguins and seals — Right Whale Bay, SGI.

    RWSE Day 5: Welcome to SGI

    15 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali ☁️ 36 °F

    “Sailors, with their built-in sense of order, service, and discipline, should really be running the world.” ~~ Nicholas Monsarrat (from the Daily Program)

    When we visited South Georgia Island in 2007, we started off near the top of the southwest coast, making our first landing at King Haakon Bay, before doing a zodiac cruise at Cape Rosa. Then, heading west, we rounded Bird Island to continue our exploration along the northern coast.

    Today, we headed straight for the northern shore of SGI. Icebergs and jagged peaks frosted with snow greeted us … at first a bit overcast and misty … but soon the light was brighter, the sun was peeking out, patches of blue were appearing in the sky, the colors were becoming deeper and more brilliant.

    What a welcome to SGI … as we made our way to today’s landing site.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.
    Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.Shag Rocks ... Scotia Sea.

    RWSE Day 4: Shag Rocks

    14 febbraio 2025, Georgia del Sud e Isole Sandwich Meridionali 🌬 37 °F

    Shag Rocks are exactly what the name says they are … rocks that some might call islets. Part of the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, they are 150 miles west of SGI. Rising from a depth of nearly 1,050 feet, the tallest of the six rocks reaches 246 ft above sea level.

    Covered by the guano of seabirds, the rocks are primarily home to the South Georgia shags, though it is also possible to see prions and wandering albatrosses here. The birds rest and breed on the steep peaks. We saw plenty of them as we passed by the rocks. Seals and whales inhabit these waters, but none of them put in an appearance tonight.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.
    First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.First iceberg of our expedition — Scotia Sea.Penguins have no predators on land or in the air.Wings became flippers since the animals that prey on penguins are in the sea.Yes, penguins tolerate humans well ... but we do need to keep our distance from them.A quote about the three explorers whose names are associated with the Heroic Age of Exploration.Endurance got stuck in the Weddell Sea ice on 18 January 1915; and sank on 21 November 1915.107 years after it was crushed by ice and sank, Endurance was found on 5 March 2022Valentine's Day Recap Slide.We expect to make land at Right Whale Bay on SGI tomorrow.Conditions look good for our first landing on SGI.Contrary to popular belief, penguins are not necessarily monogamous.D'Urville named a portion of Antarctica and a penguin after his wife, Adélie.Illegal fishing in the sub-Antarctic ... the screenshot is from yesterday.

    RWSE Day 4: @ Sea to SGI

    14 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 36 °F

    “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” ~~ St Augustine ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    Sighted our first icebergs of the voyage today! Many, many more to come.

    The Scotia Sea, on this third day of our crossing from the tip of South America to South Georgia Island, was calmer. Those conditions prevailed throughout the day.

    Presentations and lectures continued — “An Introduction to Penguins” … “History of Whaling in the Southern Ocean” … “Pray for Shackleton.” In the latter lecture, Tennessee jumped ahead to the ImperialTrans-Antarctic Expedition (aka the Endurance Expedition) since our itinerary will essentially be following a similar route through the Weddell Sea … without getting beset in the ice 🤞🏻

    Much of our afternoon was taken up with the mandatory biosecurity inspection required by South Georgia. We cleaned all of our outer gear — including vacuuming pockets, hoods, zippers, and velcro closures — and the expedition team inspected our work … just as the SGI authorities will be inspecting their work on arrival in Grytviken. We will get another chance to practice tomorrow since we will be landing on SGI before the official inspection.

    Daily recap and dinner were moved up in anticipation of our first land sighting since departing Ushuaia on 11 February.

    EL Sara briefed us on tomorrow’s landing location and weather/sea conditions … both look great.

    Expedition members then gave us their recap snippets — Gary talked about the ‘divorce rate’ amongst penguins … shattering the myth that they are primarily monogamous; in honor of Valentine’s Day, Tennessee talked about an explorer named D’Urville claiming land in Antarctica for King and Country … and naming it, as well as a penguin species, after his wife, Adélie; Claudio shared with us a screenshot from the Vessel Finder app that showed fishing vessels (transponders off = likely illegal fishing) around sub-Antarctic Islands and a fish processing vessel identified as a cargo vessel.

    And then … land ahoy!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    There are strict biosecurity rules for landings on South Georgia Island.
    There are strict biosecurity rules for landings on South Georgia Island.South Georgia Island ... pretty far out in the Scotia Sea.Grytviken whaling station operated for 60 years; 54,000 whales hunted & processed.Endemic species of SGI ... saw them in 2007 ... will we see them this time?Cetaceans of the world ... they greatly vary in size.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.Good advice from Sara's photography presentation.No landings possible at Shag Rocks ... nor will we likely see them so clearly.Seabirds spend most of their lives aloft using the winds to do so without flapping their wings.Superstitions of the mariners of the Southern Ocean.And if a boy is born below decks where the guns are kept ... son of a gun!A project to map and explore seafloor habitats around South Orkney Islands.Detail of the South Orkneys SO-AntEco project.

    RWSE Day 3: @ Sea to SGI

    13 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 37 °F

    “A journey is like a person, no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policies, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip, a trip takes us.” ~~ John Steinbeck ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    Overnight we left the infamous Drake Passage — which treated us if not to a ‘lake’ then at least not to a really bad ‘shake’. We are now in the Scotia Sea.

    Our second morning at sea toward SGI (South Georgia Island) started off with a mandatory briefing … or rather, a visitor guide video. Of primary concern here is the fragile ecosystem into which we do not want to introduce any alien species … organic matter in particular, such as seeds, soil particles, etc. To that end, there are very strict biosecurity rules. We will be inspected by government authorities when we arrive at SGI … and must get a minimum 85% compliance in order to be allowed ashore.

    This sea day otherwise followed the established routine of presentations — “Introduction to South Georgia” … “Whales and Dolphins of the Southern Ocean” … “How to Take Photos You Are Happy With.”

    At the daily recap, EL Sara announced that we should be arriving at Shag Rocks for our ‘cruise-by sightseeing’ around 7:15p tomorrow … assuming we can maintain our current speed. Members of the expedition team then shared snippets of information on topics ranging from how the sea birds use the winds to stay aloft; to the superstitions of mariners; to a summary of a study with regards to the Antarctic ecosystem.

    By the way, we lost an hour today … the change was made at noon so that we don’t lose an hour of sleep!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Scott; Amundsen; Shackleton ... the three names most associated with this age of exploration.
    Scott; Amundsen; Shackleton ... the three names most associated with this age of exploration.Captain James Cook ... the first to cross the Antarctic Circle ... 17 January 1773.Sara puts up a photo from the current day at the start of the daily recap ... Wandering Albatross.The first bit of land we will sight en route to SGI is Shag Rocks.To date, no one has seen alive a colossal squid, which can grow to 6m (20 ft) long.Quick review of latitudes and longitudes, and how to measure them.

    RWSE Day 2: @ Sea to SGI

    12 febbraio 2025, South Atlantic Ocean 🌬 39 °F

    “One must never be in haste to end a day; there are too few of them in a lifetime.” ~~ Sir Francis Drake ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    It was a rollin’ kind of night as we left the Beagle Channel for the Scotia Sea for the crossing to SGI (South Georgia Island). Not that the sea state was all that bad, but the waves were hitting us broadside. And they continued to do so throughout the day. One hand to the ship was the rule to keep ourselves safe.

    Oh my! What big feet we have!!!

    After breakfast, we were called down to collect our muck boots. I tend to get cold feet, so I wear a wool liner sock over which I put on really thick socks. Add the shearling sole inserts we brought with us, and that means I had to go up three sizes over my normal shoe size! Similarly, Mui went up three sizes.

    On an expedition of this nature, a day at sea is filled with lectures and presentations — “Sea Birds of the Southern Ocean” … “Search for Terra Incognito: Magellan to Cook” … to name a few from today.

    Another feature of these voyages is a daily recap during which the expedition leader — Sara Jenner, on this voyage — reviews the daily happenings and briefs passengers on the 'planned' activities for the next day. Other members of the expedition team will usually present snippets of interesting information … the colossal squid; and measuring latitudes and longitudes were amongst today’s topics.

    Overall, a quiet day at sea as Ortelius continues to maintain a steady speed of 11-12 knots.    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Ortelius looks so small in its berth between the other vessels — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    Ortelius looks so small in its berth between the other vessels — Ushuaia, Argentina.6Hello again Ortelius — Ushuaia, Argentina.The ship is named after a Dutch-Flemish cartographer; published the first modern world atlas.Deck plan for the 108-passenger Ortelius.Cabin 525 ... our home aboard Ortelius for the next 27 days.Getting ready to leave our berth — Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Bye bye Ushuaia, Argentina.Shags resting on the water in the Beagle Channel.Photo-bombed by a black-browed albatross ... Shags in the Beagle Channel.Giant petrel ... one of the scavengers of these latitudes ... Beagle Channel.Oceanwide Expeditions is one of the seven founding members of IAATO.Avian flu is very much a challenge in the places we'll be visiting.What the Windy app is suggesting that we will be encountering as we head to South Georgia Island.

    And We Are Off!

    11 febbraio 2025, Argentina ☁️ 41 °F

    Embarked Ortelius … ✅

    Settled into our cabin … ✅

    Got reacquainted with the ship … ✅

    Completed the mandatory safety briefing and muster drill … ✅

    Enjoyed the sailaway from the open decks … ✅

    Stopped off in the Beagle Channel to pick up the helicopters and Chilean pilots that will be accompanying us on this journey … ✅

    Attended the daily briefing; met the expedition team; and learned that we should have a fairly smooth first day crossing to South Georgia Island tomorrow … with waves in the 2.5-3 m (8-10 ft range) … ✅

    Enjoyed our first meal aboard Ortelius … ✅

    Attended the mandatory IAATO and zodiac operations briefings … ✅

    Ready to be rocked to sleep … ✅

    Our adventure has begun!    Read more

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Still raining when we wake up ... but no snow — Ushuaia, Argentina.
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    Ushuaia: One Last Wander

    11 febbraio 2025, Argentina 🌬 39 °F

    Rat-a-tat-tat! Throughout the night heavy rain pounded the picture window.

    What we didn’t know until we pulled open the drapes when we woke up was if that rain had changed to snow at some point. It had not. The ‘major snow event’ forecasted to bring 3” of the white stuff to Ushuaia had remained in the mountains.

    Checking out of the apartment at 10:00a, we Ubered to Club 1210 on Avenida Maipú … the designated luggage drop off. Embarkation of Ortelius was slated for 2:00p. We had planned for this … we would go for one last wander around the city and have empanadas for lunch.

    Coffee break at Tante Sara to get out of the soggy weather. Lunch … a tradition no more as El Turco, our favorite empanada place, now requires that you order a main course as well as empanadas … boo, hiss! To make up for that disappointment, a delicious sweet treat at Almendra … which very much lived up to its slogan … “the name of good ice cream.”

    And finally … time to embark Ortelius.    Read more

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