• OTR: Day 2 … Pastoral Scenery

    15. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    From Quirindi, we were planning on finding our way back onto New England Highway to head back north. Initially. But then, a closer study of the map gave us another idea. So, we jiggled our plans yet again … after confirming that the alternate roads were indeed paved.

    The first shortcut took us across to Wallabadah. Then a short stint on the New England Highway to the junction of the road to Nundle … from where we got on Fossicker’s Way … another rural road through pastoral scenery. This detour avoided a return to Tamworth, cutting over to the road to Armidale instead.

    The good news? We found two pull outs where we could stop for photos. The first one overlooked the Peel River. The second one overlooked Chaffey Dam.
    Les mer

  • OTR: Day 2 … Quirindi

    15. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    When we first set out to go to Gunnedah instead of Tamworth, the plan was to do a 95-mile in-out detour along the same road.

    But then we spoke to the volunteer at the Gunnedah Visitor Center and we ended up jiggling our route to head south through the Liverpool Plans to Quirindi to see what she described as the “pre-eminent silo art.”

    Peter Ryan’s mural on the GrainCorp silos tells the story of Quirindi … its past, present, and future … starting with dreamtime stories of the tree goanna, and the grey and the blue kangaroos … and continuing with the history of farming, including working dogs, crops, and the railway.

    The drive to Quirindi through pastoral lands was scenic and serene … greener than we expected it to be. Unfortunately, the narrow road had no pull-outs for us to stop and take photos. Nonetheless, the silo art we found in Quirindi, which in Kamilaroi translates as “Nest in the Hills,” was most definitely worth the detour.
    Les mer

  • OTR: Day 2 … Gunnedah

    15. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    The loose plan for today was to drive north from Goonoo Goonoo Station where we overnighted to the university town of Armidale … via Tamworth … the country music capital of Australia. We still got to Armidale, but we drove in a circle first.

    After breakfast at the Glasshouse, we got on the New England Highway to continue north. But instead of going into Tamworth, we hung a left at the intersection and went to Gunnedah instead.

    Gunnedah is a small town in what is considered the bread bowl of Australia. It is also cattle country. And coal mining, too. The brochure we had picked up described it as a “… land of plenty, of foreboding power and striking beauty, of deep chocolate soils and wispy plains of grass. Of quiet bush and deep blue lines of hills, of brilliant sunshine and soft dusk, of bustling progress and eerie vastness.”

    Gunnedah, we read, was a microcosm of the Australian way of life. It is a small speck in poetess Dorothea Mackellar’s “Sunburnt Country” … in the poem “My Country” … Australia’s unofficial anthem, memorized by all adults and children … not unlike the USA’s “America the Beautiful.”

    Arriving in the surprisingly bustling town, we stopped at the visitor center for some suggestions. Our experience with volunteers working in the info centers has been mixed. Some very forthcoming with suggestions … some not so much. The woman we spoke with today — a 30-year transplant from Switzerland — was great. She pulled out brochures and maps, marked them up with glee, and sent us on our way to explore … changing our plans for today … not to mention for the rest of our days on the road.
    Les mer

  • OTR: Goonoo Goonoo Station

    14. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    With our short road trip up to Brisbane planned very loosely, we had only two reservations for accommodations along the way. The first one at an AirBNB in Pokolbin … to relax in the famed Hunter Valley. The one for tonight at Goonoo Goonoo [gun-a-gun-noo] Station … a restored 1830s station/heritage-listed village.

    The name of the station, which translates as “plenty of water,” comes from the language of the Kamilaroi, the traditional owners of the land. Though we did not see any water sources during our short stay, I understand there are many creeks, swamps, and rivers that flow through it.

    Goonoo Goonoo was a sheep station from the 1800s until the 1960s. It operated under the auspices of the Australian Agricultural Commission to grow its merino business. A homestead was built … a school and church were added … an inn was constructed to accommodate travelers. Thus, a village was born. In 2011, the station changed hands. By this time, the sheep had been replaced by cattle … specifically Angus and Hereford.

    Instead of demolishing it, the new owners decided to restore the 19th century village which had some 30 buildings that had fallen into disrepair. Our reservation was at one of those buildings … the shearer’s quarters … converted into a number of luxurious rooms.

    After checking in at the heritage building that was once the butchery, we settled into our room and then went for a wander around the village … careful to stay away from the operating cattle station … biosecurity rules prohibit entrance. Following our meander, we enjoyed sitting on the porch where I could easily imagine the sheep shearers sitting out after a day of hard work … cooling breezes welcome in the late afternoon heat … then and today.

    Dinner was at the Glasshouse Restaurant, sitting up on the hill, with views of the Liverpool Range in every direction. The restaurant lies between two of the heritage buildings … the wool store and the shearing shed. The food was delicious … the scenery pastoral. A perfect way to wrap up our day on the road.
    Les mer

  • OTR: Kurri Kurri Murals

    14. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After a quiet day of relaxing in Pokolbin, we were ready to set off north through inland roads for a series of one-night stays as we made our way to Brisbane.

    But then I read a snippet about Kurri Kurri being the pre-eminent mural town in Australia … painted works of public art telling the stories of the people, events, and places that shaped the unique character and heritage of the area. So, we added a 90-mile roundtrip detour to our day on the road.

    Arriving in Kurri Kurri, our initial impression was mixed. The small CBD seemed to be under construction … half the shops closed. And yet, there was a vibrancy with the locals going about their daily business. But those same locals didn’t seem all that welcoming to outsiders. Where were the smiles and greetings that we’d experienced in towns and cities thus far in our adventures Down Under?

    Mui had already scoped out a café for breakfast. Walking up and down the CBD, we found no sign of it. Nor did the man at the visitor information center recognize the name when we asked him where we might find the Coffee Shot Café. Google insisted the place was open, however, so we persevered. Aha! It was tucked inside a small mall. Not the ambiance of the small town street café we’d been looking for, but the food was good and the service efficient.

    Following breakfast, we set off in search of murals. The map we had picked up at the visitor center was helpful in finding most of them. We enjoyed the colorful art, but many of them were situated such that photographing them was impossible. Others had been marred with graffiti.

    It was a worthy detour for the most part, but IMHO, Kurri Kurri could take a lesson or two from Sheffield, the mural town of Tasmania.
    Les mer

  • Pokolbin: Hunter Valley Gardens

    12. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    A hot day — high of 92F. But beautiful nonetheless with blue skies and sunshine. A perfect day for visiting the Hunter Valley Gardens.

    Built in 1999, the gardens are situated on what used to be horse paddocks and vineyards. Encompassing 14 hectares, the gardens are home to a variety of themed areas — a Sunken Garden with a 33-foot high waterfall; a Storybook Garden where larger-than-life nursery rhymes are brought to life; a Rose Garden … dedicated to grandmothers everywhere; a Formal Garden … influenced by designs from France and England; a Border Garden designed in the classic French parterre style; an Indian Garden flanked by bronze elephants; an Oriental Garden trimmed and manicured with natural curves; a Chinese Garden incorporating traditional elements; and an Italian Grotto featuring a statue of St Francis of Assisi.

    We began with a stroll on the lakes walk and then ventured into the different gardens, following meandering paths. The grounds were beautifully manicured … lush green. But colorful blooms were at a minimum. Talking to one of the gardeners, it became obvious that we were here between seasons, with winter plantings currently in progress.

    Regardless of the lack of blooms, we enjoyed the serene nature of the gardens. And later wrapped up our outing at Café Enzo … recommended by one of the locals. Delicious food.
    Les mer

  • Welcome to Pokolbin … Hunter Valley

    11. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Once the coach from Canberra arrived at Sydney Central Station, Mui went to pick up our Avis car rental while I stood guard over our bags.

    What can I say about the drive to get us out of Sydney? Best that it be forgotten. We managed to get on the M1 after a few wrong turns … the GPS just wasn’t fast enough relaying instructions … perhaps because of all the construction detours.

    There are two ways to get to Brisbane from Sydney … some 570 miles away. Follow the coastline or travel via Hunter Valley. We opted for the latter and have given ourselves a week to do so.

    Hunter Valley is considered the birthplace of Australian wines … known particularly for semillon and shiraz varieties. Admittedly, while we enjoy the occasional glass of wine, neither of us are connoisseurs. Nonetheless, we’re looking forward to the peaceful landscapes the area promises are part of the experience.

    If our “light and airy” AirBNB booking is anything to go by … we will have the peaceful, charming experience we’re hoping for … at least for the first couple of days.
    Les mer

  • Canberra to Sydney … by Coach

    11. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    When we added Canberra to our itinerary, we did so with round trip train tickets between Sydney and Australia’s capital city.

    Then, a couple of months ago, we were notified by the NSW Link service that our return would be by coach due to track maintenance work scheduled for 9-11 March. We were given the option to cancel … or switch dates.

    We considered doing so. Renting a car from Canberra for our onward travels instead of picking up a rental in Sydney as planned was an option. But then we figured, what the heck … let’s just take the bus … add one more mode of travel to our Down Under Adventures.

    The good news? We were put on the express bus, with only one other stop to pick up passengers along the way. Faster than the train would have been with multiple stops. It was an uneventful drive that had us leaving Canberra Station as hot air balloons started rising aloft in celebration of Canberra Day.

    By the way, heard some news about the Indian Pacific today. That’s the train we took from Perth to Sydney last week. Turns out that the 10 March departure from Perth — which we had considered booking — has been canceled. The reason? Flooding on the Nullarbor due to unusually heavy rainfall. In fact, the area has received almost a year’s worth of rain — 200mm — in just a few days. Not only is passenger and cargo service on the rails disrupted, so is road traffic … the Eyre Highway is closed as well. Service on the IP has been canceled until 17 March. Close call for us!

    Tough year along the south of Australia. Yeah, we had to take a bus instead of the train to get from Canberra to Sydney today. But at least we got through with no adverse weather conditions to deal with.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: Last Post

    10. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Last Post … in the military tradition.

    The Last Post is the bugle call that signifies the end of the day's activities. It is also sounded at military funerals to indicate that the soldier has gone to his final rest.

    When we learned that the daily closing of the Australian War Memorial is preceded by a Last Post, we decided to return this afternoon to participate.

    The ceremony is held in the enclosed courtyard overlooked by the Hall of Memory and the Roll of Honor loggias. This area is known as the Commemorative Area. Each ceremony honors the life and service of a member of the military who has died in service of Country. Family members are invited to attend and lay wreaths. The public is also welcome to attend … spots reserved through the War Memorial ticket office.

    The ceremony includes the playing of the Australian National Anthem; the reading of the life of the honoree; and the sounding of the Last Post. Today’s honoree was a World War I soldier who served in the European Theater of War.

    Very moving ceremony. Glad we were able to participate as a wrap up to our time in Canberra.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: Parliament House

    10. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    The site of Canberra — the future capital of Australia — was selected in 1908. The government announced an international competition for the design of what they said would be “the finest capital city in the world.” Of the over 130 architects and town planners who submitted designs, Walter Burley Griffin, an American architect, won the competition.

    One of the most important elements of Burley Griffin’s plan is the Land Axis, which aligns Mount Ainslie with Camp Hill and Kurrajong with Mount Bimberi. At one end of the axis is the National War Memorial … and at the other end is Parliament House on Kurrajong (now known as Capital Hill). The Old Parliament House lying in between.

    After visiting the Old Parliament House, we strolled along Federation Mall to Parliament House. The mall, which in many ways reminded us of the mall in Washington, DC, balances the ANZAC Parade, which lies between the old house and the War Memorial. It completes the Land Axis.

    Parliament House, which consists of some 4,700 rooms, was built between 1981 and 1988 when it was inaugurated by Queen Elizabeth. Its shape is based on two boomerangs that are topped by a nearly 270-foot tall flagpole.

    We entered the grand foyer with its soaring ceiling held up by marble columns; peeked into the Great Hall with its oversized tapestry based on an untitled painting by Arthur Boyd; checked out both the Senate and House of Representative chambers … with the same red and green color schemes, respectively; and enjoyed the art on exhibit around the building. A quick snack at the Queen’s Terrace Café wrapped up our visit.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: MoAD @ Old Parliament

    10. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    A modern museum inside a heritage-listed Old Parliament House … a building that served as the home of Australia’s federal government from 1927 to 1988. Built on what was once a sheep paddock, the building was never intended to be the permanent home of government.

    In addition to changing exhibits that “ask the how and why of democracy,” visitors can tour various rooms — the Prime Minister’s Suite, which was redecorated for Queen Elizabeth when she made her first State Visit to Australia in 1954; the party offices; the Senate Chamber … decorated in red, because the dye was the most expensive; the House of Representatives Chamber … decorated in green, because the dye was the least expensive.

    An interesting wander … stepping back into the history of Australia’s democracy.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: National Portrait Gallery

    10. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    “To reflect the face of Australia, tell Australian stories and increase understanding and appreciation of Australian people through the art of portraiture — their identity, history, culture, creativity, and diversity.”

    That is how the website describes the vision and purpose of the National Portrait Gallery … where we started our sightseeing on our last day in Canberra.

    Admittedly, we stopped by this museum only because of its proximity to somewhere else we wanted to visit. Why? Because we expected that the portraits on exhibit would be of people whose names would be unfamiliar to us. That was indeed the case.

    Thus our visit was a quick in-out before we moved on.

    I was glad to see the rock art in the garden and we did get a chance to watch sulphur-crested cockatoos breakfasting nearby.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: National Gallery of Australia

    9. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    We don’t usually do two museums in one day. But we made an exception today to take advantage of the special late closing time for the National Gallery of Australia (NGA).

    Another wonderful museum, the NGA is home to what is billed as the most valuable collection of art in the country. The website states that the “… national collection comprises over 155,000 works of art, including the world’s largest collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. Our significant collection represents the whole of Australian art, modern art worldwide, particularly from Europe and America, and art from across Asia and the Pacific. …”

    The museum aims to inspire all Australians. If you ask me, they go beyond that and inspire everyone who steps inside to see the collection. Good thing we had comfortable shoes on as there was a lot of walking involved to see it all.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: National Museum of Australia

    9. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    On a quiet Saturday — surprising since this is a three-day weekend … Monday is Canberra Day — we had ourselves a two museum day.

    First up was the National Museum of Australia.

    I’ve said this before … Australia knows how to do museums well. The quality of the exhibits are exceptional … and a great many of the national and state museums are “donations gratefully accepted.” This one, which “preserves and interprets Australia’s social history, exploring the key issues, people and events that have shaped the nation. …” was no exception.

    Having been established in 1980, it is a relatively young museum. In fact, it wasn’t until 2001 that a purpose-built permanent home was constructed. Exhibits cover 50,000 years of Aboriginal heritage and the settlement of the country since 1788.

    One brochure states that the museum has the largest collection of Aboriginal bark paintings. Then there are displays that include the heart of Phar Lap, a champion race horse; the prototype Holden car; a delicate porcelain chamber pot; minerals and fossils; and more. A good amount of space is dedicated to the natural disasters — cyclones and bushfires in a particular — that plague the country frequently.

    In other words … a very eclectic collection, which I tried to portray in this footprint with the photos I selected to share.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: ANZAC Pde & Atatürk Memorial

    8. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The ANZAC Parade is set along Canberra’s Land Axis … part of the original 1912 plan for the city. At one end stands the Australian War Memorial. At the other end is Parliament House.

    Any other time, we would have walked down one side of the 1.5 mile-long boulevard and up the other side to check out all the memorials that line it. But time wasn’t our friend today. We had doctor’s appointments for the crud we picked up on the train.

    But before we hopped in an Uber to return to Kingston, we made time to visit the one memorial that held the most significance to us … the Kemal Atatürk Memorial. It sits at the top of the ANZAC Parade closest to the Australian War Memorial. The brochure explains that “… it is part of an agreement between Australian and Turkish governments on commemorative gestures to acknowledge the 70th anniversary of the Gallipoli landing.”

    The memorial is the only one on the ANZAC Parade dedicated to an individual … showing the respect in which Atatürk, commander of the Turkish Forces during the campaign and later the first president of the fledgling country, is held. At the center, is soil from Gallipoli; around the memorial are pines grown from seeds collected at Lone Pine. The crescent shape of the memorial and the five columns represent the crescent and five-pointed star on the Turkish flag.

    Of course, Atatürk’s “Letters to the Mothers” holds pride of place here … as it does in every such memorial we’ve seen in Australia. And in New Zealand, for that matter.

    An appropriate end to our day at the Australian War Memorial.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: AWM … Lone Pine Tree

    8. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Lone Pine — on Turkey’s Gelibolu Peninsula … site of the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI — is where the ANZAC and Turkish soldiers fought one of the battles of the campaign. It was so named due to the single pine tree that stood at the site.

    The story goes that an Australian soldier, whose brother had died in the Lone Pine Battle, found a pine cone in the tree branches the Turkish soldiers had used to cover their trenches. He sent the cone to his mother, who planted the seeds from it in the ground at their home. Two saplings grew from the planting … one was sent to New South Wales and the other was planted by Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester, at the Australian War Memorial in Canberra.

    The tree remains where it was planted, though it did suffer some damage during a strong storm in 2008. The tree is apparently coming near the end of its natural life span. So, on ANZAC Day 2014, Prince William and Kate — then the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge — planted another sapling propagated from seeds gathered after the Battle of Lone Pine. Thus, the tradition continues.

    Both of the trees are in what is called the Sculpture Precinct … adjacent to the AWM. So, after our visit to the Hall of Memory, we headed over there to take a look at them.

    By the way, there are a number of these trees around Australia … propagated in the same manner.

    (If interested, this link will take you to the photo gallery from my 2008 visit to the sites of the Gallipoli Campaign. You’ll recognize the ones from Lone Pine from the single tree in the cemetery that now sits on those hallowed grounds … https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Turkey-2008/G….)
    Les mer

  • Canberra: AWM … Hall of Memory

    8. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    From the museum, we continued to the heart of the Australian War Memorial … the Hall of Memory.

    To reach the hall, one must walk through the Commemorative Area with its reflection pool and eternal flame, and the roll of honor on either side … decorated with poppies.

    The hall is where one finds the Tomb of the Unknown Australian Soldier. All of the decorative elements are symbolic in one way or another — the 15 stained glass windows depict servicemen and servicewomen from WWI … each representing a quality such as devotion, candor, sacrifice, and more; mosaics of servicemen and servicewomen of WWII … representing a soldier, a nurse, a sailor, and an airman; pillars representing the four elements … air, fire, earth, and water. The dome — Byzantine in style — is the most recognizable aspect of the AWM.

    As we’ve found in other state memorials, it is a place of solitude and reflection.
    Les mer

  • Canberra: Australian War Memorial

    8. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Each state capital we have visited in Australia has a war memorial. Each town has a “Lest We Forget” monument. Canberra — as the capital of Australia — is home to the Australian War Memorial (AWM).

    After a day of resting to jump start our recuperation from whatever bug we had picked up while on the IP, today we headed off to start our Canberra sightseeing at the AWM. (Feeling much better … thank you very much.)

    Established in 1925, the idea for the AWM germinated soon after WWI … to honor service members who served and died in WWI. It was unveiled to the public in 1941. The scope has since been expanded to include not only WWII, but other conflicts in which Australians have served.

    Admission is free, but requires a timed entry — two hour slots. That was nowhere near enough for us as by the end of two hours we had only covered the WWI exhibits in the museum. No worries, a quick visit to the ticket office extended our time another two hours.

    The stories of the Australian men and women who served in military conflicts is told through exhibits, artifacts, and art. There was so much to see and digest. Not to mention share. Not enough time or space to do so in this footprint. So, this one is focused on the art from the museum galleries of the AWM.
    Les mer

  • Arrived in Canberra, ACT

    6. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    And as lousy as I feel right now, the title is about all I have the energy to write.

    But here are a few more sentences.

    Our slow train ride was uneventful. Although it was after 10:00p when we arrived at Canberra Station, there were taxis at the stand. Thank goodness for that. The short ride to the AirBNB at the quay on Lake Burley Griffin in Kingston was quick.

    And now … it’s time to get some rest. Fingers crossed we feel better when we wake up.
    Les mer

  • Train from Sydney to Canberra

    6. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Staying on the IP through to Sydney Central Station meant that we’d be arriving well before the Blue Mountain tours returned by charter train.

    With very few people disembarking the IP, getting our bags was easy peasy. But now we had five hours to kill before our train to Canberra. Luckily, there is a luggage storage facility at the train station … pricey, but worth it for the freedom to leave the station for a few hours.

    Still sluggish, we slowly walked over to the Town Hall where we had been told that we’d find plenty of food options. We settled on a pub … not our first choice, but restaurant kitchens were closing down until dinner service. Since we were in the area, we also went in search of the Avis office from which we’ll be picking up our rental when we return to Sydney on the 11th.

    A productive afternoon, but we were happy to get off our feet when we returned to Central Station and rest up a bit for our next train ride.

    This train ride is on a daily service that operates between Sydney and Canberra. The trip is about 4.5 hours long … not sure why the speed was so slow, but hey, I’m not a train engineer. I’m sure we would have enjoyed it more had we both been feeling better.
    Les mer

  • IP: Last Day … Under the Weather

    6. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌩️ 54 °F

    At some point yesterday, I started feeling under the weather. So much so that I skipped both lunch and dinner. By this morning, Mui was feeling sluggish as well … like he does when he has a sinus infection. The worst part was the hacking cough that nothing seemed to help soothe.

    So, we changed our plans. Neither one of us was in any shape to do the Blue Mountain off-train experience, which included a 1.5-mile hike. Big disappointment, but it is what it is. The lush green scenery — wreathed in the morning mist — was a big change from the past few days and added pleasure to our time on the IP.

    Oh, and yes, we finally saw kangaroos from the train … hopping around as they munches on greenery.
    Les mer

  • IP: Day 3 … Adelaide Central Market

    5. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    The IP was late arriving at the Adelaide Parklands Terminal. We were expecting that, however, as our departure from Cook had been delayed. Nonetheless, we were all off the train and on our respective busses by 8:30p for the short off-train experiences planned for today.

    Having visited Adelaide when we were on Regatta in January, we had already done the wandering around. We were not interested in the tour of the Adelaide Oval … described as “the most picturesque sporting grounds in the world.” Thus, we had decided back then to skip the Central Market and visit it on the “Adelaide Central Market Progressive Breakfast” experience.

    The Central Market has its origins in 1869. On a Saturday morning, a small group of market gardeners loaded their carts high with fresh produce and made their way to the Victoria Square Precinct. Their goal was to break free from the crowded east end markets. Accompanied by their rattling carts and the Concordia Band, it took them a few hours to reach the area that is now known as Central Market. Over 500 people visited the first market day and by 6:00a the gardeners were sold out. The rest, as they say is history.

    Today, the very clean and well-organized market is overseen by a city council. The council is responsible for ensuring pricing equity … the price of grapes, for example, is the same regardless of which stall you go to. They also help organize focus days — today was tomatoes — and inspect the market daily before the doors open to the public to check proper hygiene practices are in place.

    Our tour wasn’t quite what we expected. Thinking “progressive breakfast” we thought we would be trying different things at different stalls as we wandered through the market. Instead, on arrival, our guide gave us some information about the market. Then she led us down one of the many walkways between the stalls to a coffee place at the other end of the market for our breakfast … coffee/tea; croissant sandwiches; a yogurt parfait; and cookies. It was all tasty and good … just not the experience we expected.

    We had about 30 minutes after our breakfast to wander around on our own. Eventually, we found our way to a chocolatier for a sweet ending to our outing!
    Les mer

  • IP: Day 2 … Cook

    4. mars 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 93 °F

    In the blink of an eye — at 11:00a — the time changed to 1:30p … to put us on South Australia time. We lost 1 hour to the time zone change + 1 hour to Daylight Saving Time (which WA does not follow, but SA does) + 30 minutes to that weird time adjustment around Eucla. Our day, thus, suddenly went from being 24 hours long to 21.5 hours long.

    Nonetheless, we had an off-train experience to enjoy.

    Cook — which once boasted a population of 200 — was established in 1917 to support the maintenance of the Trans Australian Railway. There were several other settlements like Cook — one every 18 miles or so — but none of them have survived to this day.

    Located on the world’s longest straight stretch of rail track — 297 miles give or take a few rounding points — this small outback settlement is more a ghost town than not. That said, there are people living here. According to the brochure included in our info packet, the IP provisions the few residents who call this place home. In turn, they provide the fuel and water the IP needs.

    The plan was for the train to make two stops. The first one would water the cars in the first half of the train. Then, the train would move to do the same for the rest of the cars. At that point, we’d be allowed off the train for about 30 minutes to stretch our legs.

    Well, the watering of the train was taking longer than expected, so we were allowed off before the train was moved. Which meant that we had a longer walk to the head of the train … our main goal being getting a photo of the engine that is pulling our nearly .6-mile long train. We managed to do that … and then wandered around the ruins of the buildings … despite the pesky flies and the drizzle. The flies are apparently the norm; the rain not so much. In fact, a two-year veteran of the IP later told us that this was the first time she has encountered rain in Cook.

    With no public address system available, the town’s fire siren was used to advise us when it was time to re-embark the train. Which we duly did. Then the train moved forward a bit and stopped to water the remaining cars. And here we’ve been sitting for the past hour and a half. Not sure what the delay is all about. At least we have 5G cell signal to entertain us.

    Update: Finally, a little before 5:00p we were on the move again. The reason for the delay? A cryptic “problem with the loco (aka the locomotive).” This means that we’ll be a little late getting into Adelaide tomorrow.
    Les mer

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