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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Meatza Wagon ... serves tasty sandwiches — Kennecott, AK.
    Salmon BLT and meatball sub for lunch @ the Meatza Wagon — Kennecott, AK.

    Lunch @ Meatza Wagon

    26. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Following our hike, we walked back to the footbridge, crossed over the Kennicott River, and took the free shuttle into McCarthy. At the mercantile, we switched over to the McC/Kennecott shuttle for the 4½-mile drive on the road that was originally the railroad bed that connected the mill town with Cordova, the port town from which the copper ore was shipped to smelters in Tacoma.

    As we still had time before our tour, we decided to have lunch first.

    There are essentially two places where one can get a bite of food in Kennecott — the Kennecott Glacier Lodge and a food truck called the Meatza Wagon. We opted for the latter.

    It was still raining steadily, but the Meatza Wagon has a small covered area with a couple of picnic tables. The food was very tasty — again, expensive considering all we ate were a couple of sandwiches ... but you are out in the boonies of Alaska after all.

    I ordered the signature dish on their menu — the meatball sub. Mui got the Copper River salmon BLT. Both were excellent ... both served with kettle chips. We took our time over lunch, chatting with an Australian family ... traveling around Alaska as part of a longer trip to explore the USA ... possible only because they are currently living in Malaysia since Australia has completely shut its borders during the pandemic.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Panorama of the glacial lake from the ridge of the lateral moraine — Base Camp, AK.
    The toe of Root Glacier covered with surface moraine — Base Camp @ the end of the McCarthy RoadRidge of ice covered with surface moraine — Base Camp @ the end of McCarthy Road, AK.Kennecott Mill Town through the fog ... we're heading there next — Base Camp ... end of McCarthy Rd.

    Foggy Morning Hike

    26. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    It rained all night ... on and off. The pitter-patter on the roof, however, was drowned out by the Kennicott River rushing downriver past our campsite, gurgling and crashing over rocks and boulders.

    Despite the continued drizzle and the fog, we went for an after-breakfast hike by the glacial lake on the far side of Base Camp. Trekking through the brush, we found a goat-path-like trail that was probably formed by the thousands of people who have probably done the same trek over the years. We followed the path along the ridge of lateral moraine piled high at the edge of the lake to see how far we could go. Not far, as it turns out as our way was blocked by a second lake.

    Though the beautiful white face of the Root Glacier was hidden by the fog, our efforts were rewarded by views of the toe. Those unfamiliar with glaciers probably dismiss dirty glaciers out of hand as a pile of dirt and rock. Not so. Under the surface moraine, there is usually a river of ice peeking through. That was the case today.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Sunset at Base Camp — McCarthy Road, AK.
    Sunset at Base Camp — McCarthy Road, AK.Sunset at Base Camp ... looking back towards the glacier — McCarthy Road, AK.Sunset at Base Camp — McCarthy Road, AK.

    Day 54 Ends with Sunset Colors

    25. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The 7:00p shuttle from Kennecott not only brought us back to McCarthy, but then transported us to the footbridge since the free shuttle stops operating at 7:00p. Lesson learned: if we happen to be on that last shuttle from K town, we’ll ask to be taken to the footbridge directly.

    Once back at our campsite, Mui lit a campfire and we enjoyed snacks and wine by the river. Didn’t remember to take photos, alas.

    Instead, I’ll end the day with some sunset colors. Not just any old sunset colors, though. These were taken at 11:30p. I was about to go to bed when I glimpsed the pinks and lavenders in the sky and just had to go out to capture them.

    The sun hasn’t set yet, but has gone behind the mountains. Add to that the ever-shortening days now that the Solstice is behind us ... and the fact that we are further south than we were ... and well, it looks like we will get a few hours of darkness here on out.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we are in Kennecott" selfie with the mill building as a background — Kennecott, AK.
    The 14-story mill building is the iconic landmark of the town — Kennecott, AK.2The mill building ... and more — Kennecott, AK.

    Kennecott: A Quick Looksee

    25. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Our main reason for going to Kennecott today was logistics. Though, deep down, I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the mill building that I’ve been wanting to see since I saw a photo of it back in 2001.

    At the time I made our reservations for the Mill Town Tour, we were planning on just two nights at the Base Camp. Then our plans got jiggled. Now that we had an extra night — thus, an extra day — we wanted to see about shifting the tour from the 27th to the 26th. To do that, we had to go to the St Elias Alpine Guides’ office.

    Long story short, the outfitter — which partners with the National Park Service to operate the tours — was able to get us in a group tomorrow afternoon.

    Since we had about 30 minutes before the last shuttle back to McCarthy at 7:00p, we went for a short wander around the old Mill Town and I got my wish. I took advantage of the blue skies and sunshine for a few quick snapshots of the 14-story mill building. After all, you never know what the weather will be like tomorrow.

    I’ll write about both the town and the copper mine operations in another post.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Crossing the footbridge over the Kennicott River — End of the McCarthy Road, AK.
    The community church — McCarthy, AK.An old Dodge that might someday find its way into a museum — McCarthy, AK.A section of a beautiful quilt blanket — McCarthy, AK.Main Street McCarthy — Alaska."The Raven" — McCarthy, AK.Ma Johnson's Hotel — McCarthy, AK.Unframed canvas of main street — McCarthy, AK.Colorful flowers and a "rusty truck garden" — McCarthy, AK.

    Exploring McCarthy

    25. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    After settling into our site at the Base Camp, we grabbed a quick lunch at Wild Dogs, a food truck near the office ... expensive (as most food options seem to be in the area), but very good. Then, we crossed the footbridge.

    McCarthy is one of the places considered private property within Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve. I’m not sure how many people live here now, but the 2020 Milepost gives a combined population of 34 people for McC/Kennecott. Founded back in 1906 when the Kennecott Copper Mine was established, McCarthy was considered “sin city” as opposed to Kennecott, located 4.5 miles away, being the “work city.”

    Since we wanted to stretch our legs, we decided to walk the ½-mile into town. It was a bit hot with little shade along the way. And dusty, too. But not bad since there was a second footbridge that was a shortcut over following the road the entire way. Once in McCarthy, we wandered down the road, checking out things. Not much to see really.

    Since visitors can’t drive into McCarthy, there are a couple of shuttle options. One of them charges $5pp each way and goes from the footbridge to McCarthy and Kennecott.

    The other company operates a free shuttle from the footbridge into McCarthy and a paid shuttle to Kennecott from McC ... the cost is $5/person each way. There’s also an unlimited pass for $15/person. Knowing that we’d be going into Kennecott three or more times during our stay, we opted for the latter and purchased our passes at the McCarthy Center ... sort of like a mercantile for the community.

    And then we sat down to wait for the next shuttle into Kennecott.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Our dry camp site along the Kennicott River — Base Camp @ McCarthy Road End, AK.
    This view of Root Glacier could have been ours if the site wasn't so primitive — Base Camp, AK.

    Dry Camping @ Base Camp

    25. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    If you’re just a visitor to McCarthy/Kennecott, you can not drive over the Kennicott River. The vehicle bridge used by the locals to do so is off limits to visitors.

    So, what do visitors do? They cross the river by way of the footbridge. If they have bikes, they can roll across the footbridge and go to McCarthy and Kennecott. Pedestrians staying at one of the two lodges/hotels in either community, can roll their bags across on carts and be transported by courtesy shuttles. Tent campers can similarly make their way across the footbridge and use the free and paid shuttles to get to either place ... or be transported by one of the outfitters.

    For RVers, there are turnouts along the McCarthy Road for boondocking. They can also camp at one of the two campgrounds, though one of them is closed for a second year due to the pandemic.

    That left us with with the other campground ... the Basecamp ... where the McCarthy Road dead ends at the Kennicott River. A not-so-cheap option since our 28 foot Cruiser is considered “oversized” and the nightly rate thus jumps from $25 to $40.

    The sites are primitive, but they all have a picnic table and fire pit. Some are along the Kennicott River ... others on the far side of the parking lot, in the area near the glacier lake ... with views of Root Glacier. Except that at most of the sites, the view is blocked by the terrain or the brush.

    We found the perfect site, with a wide open view of the glacier and we made a valiant effort to get into it. To no avail. The road had too many big rocks and was extremely uneven. It would have been perfect for a tenter. Oddly, anytime we walked in that direction, the site it was unoccupied.

    Anyway, after walking the riverside sites, we found one that proved quite satisfactory.

    The sound of the river rushing helter-skelter over rocks and boulders is loud ... but soothing as it’s not unlike white noise. We’re looking forward to our three nights here.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we stopped at the Chitina River Scenic Viewpoint" selfie — McCarthy Road, AK.
    1Reflections on Silver Lake — McCarthy Road, AK.Kuskulana Bridge ... constructed as a train trestle in 1910 — McCarthy Road, AK.A "we drove across the Kuskulana Bridge" selfie — McCarthy Road, AK.Lou's Lake — McCarthy Road, AK.Lou's Lake ... a beautiful background for a selfie — McCarthy Road, AK.Gilahina Trestle ... 890 ft long/90 ft high ... built in 8 days in 1911 — McCarthy Road, AK.Crossing the Lakina River Bridge — McCarthy Road, AK.4Following in the footsteps of a lynx near Lakina River — McCarthy Road, AK.

    Along the McCarthy Road

    25. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The McCarthy Road is a nearly 60-mile dirt road that picks up where the Edgerton Highway ends in Chitina.

    We’d heard many-a horror story about driving the road. We’d also heard from others who regretted not driving the road to get from Chitina to McCarthy. So, we did our research.

    Several locals said the road had undergone maintenance work in 2020 and was in decent shape. The Wrangell-St Elias National Park rangers didn’t blink an eye when we said we planned to drive the road in our 28-foot motorhome and asked them about recent road conditions. Alrighty then ... let’s do this. Leaving the toad behind at the Chitina Airstrip, we got on the road.

    Sure, there were bumps and washboards and frost heaves along the way. But indeed the road wasn’t too bad. Especially the first 18 miles or so after cresting the hill outside of Chitina. Certainly Nabesna road was worse as were sections of the Steese Highway and Denali Highway.

    We took five hours to do the 60-mile drive. Not just because slow and easy is the name of the game on a road like the McCarthy, but also because we made stops along the way and did two short walks as well. And we did have to trail behind a lynx for a little while because it was walking along the side of the road like it owned it. Well, of course it did.

    So, we’re definitely of the opinion that the road is doable ... the scenery along the way well worth the time and effort to drive the McCarthy Road. But, road conditions change fast and anyone who plains to drive the McCarthy need to do their research first.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    With Ranger Vicky at Uncle Tom's Tavern — Chitna, AK.

    Day 53 Ends @ Uncle Tom’s Tavern

    24. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    After our visit to Liberty Falls, we returned to the Cruiser ... I did some reading and writing ... Mui took a nap. Then we went out for an evening on the town. Or rather, make that for a beer ... we’re such “big party people!”

    When we visited with Ranger Vicky this morning, she had mentioned that we could have an “authentic” Alaskan bar experience at Uncle Tom’s Tavern ... complete with a big grizzly bear skin — head and all — covering the pool table!

    We have no other Alaskan bar experience to compare it with, but this one sure felt authentic to us ... complete with a crusty old bartender ... and a few other interesting “characters.”

    Ranger Vicky was there, sipping a seltzer before going home to her steak dinner. She is one of those interesting characters with quite a backstory ... but it’s hers to tell so I won’t give it away here.

    It was fun sipping our beers out of mason jars, and chatting with Vicky and a few others, including a woman visiting from Israel ... along with her friend from Chicago. An evening to remember.

    And now, we’re back at the Cruiser. In one direction, the sun is shining ... in the opposite, some ugly clouds are gathering. We’ll see which side of Mother Nature wins the weather battle.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we visited Liberty Falls" selfie — Liberty Falls SRS on the Edgerton Hwy, AK.
    2Rain & the waterfall— Liberty Falls SRS on the Edgerton Hwy, AKAn iPhone long exposure shot of Liberty Falls" selfie — Liberty Falls SRS on the Edgerton Hwy, AK.A close up of one of the cascades @ Liberty Falls — Edgerton Hwy, AK.

    Liberty Falls

    24. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    On our way back to the campground, we decided to backtrack about 5 miles further along the Edgerton Highway to the Liberty Falls State Recreation Site.

    One reason was to check out the campground, in case we want to stay there on our way back from McCarthy. But our primary reason for the quick stop was to see the waterfall for which the SRS is named.

    This is an easy waterfall to see ... no hiking required. Just drive into the SRS and there it is. The best view, in fact, is right from the bridge.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    One of the many gulls at O'Brien Creek — Chitina, AK.
    O'Brien Creek rushing to wed the Copper River — Chitina, AK.Patiently waiting for salmon scraps — Chitina, AK.A free-for-all ensues once salmon scraps are tossed — O'Brien Creek in Chitina, AK.This lucky gull lands an already filleted salmon carcass — O'Brien Creek in Chitina, AK.An iPhone "long exposure" of O'Brien Creek — Chitina, AK.Salmon fishing charter boats on the Copper River — Chitina, AK.The Mighty Copper River from the bluff — Chitina, AK.

    Gulls @ O’Brien Creek

    24. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    When we stopped at the NPS [National Park Service] Station in Chitina, Ranger Vicky made several suggestions for things to do in the area. One of them was driving the O’Brien Creek Road all the way to the end ... a popular spot for salmon fishing.

    At the Copper River Bridge, we only saw indigenous people fishing — perhaps because the area is Athabascan Athna lands (I’ll have to take a photo of the map I saw at the wayside to verify.) That wasn’t the case at O’Brien Creek, where the clear water rushes to wed with the silty Copper River.

    By the time we got to the creek, very few anglers were fishing. By the looks of it, most had caught their limit and were busy cleaning their catch ... the gulls impatiently trolling for the scraps and carcasses that were being thrown back into the river once the salmon were filleted.

    As the gulls fought over the scraps of salmon, we ate our PB&J sandwiches in the car. Would love to have crossed the footbridge as Vicky had suggested to eat out on the sandbar, but the winds were too gusty ... too much silt being blown about. And we kept getting sprinkles of “liquid sunshine.” Besides, the gulls might have decided that our sandwiches were easy pickings.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Dip-netters start young — Copper River in Chitina, AK.
    Dip-net fishing ... only open to residents of the state — Copper River in Chitina, AK.A brief video showing dip-netting — Copper River in Chitina, AK.The Mighty Copper River ... popular with dip-netters — Copper River in Chitina, AK.Cutting tails this way marks the catch as subsistence — Copper River in Chitina, AK.Bald Eagle patiently waiting for its turn to fish — Copper River in Chitina, AK.The gulls are not quite as patient as the eagles — Copper River in Chitina, AK.Looking upriver from the Copper River Bridge — Copper River in Chitina, AK.Fish wheels are another way of fishing for salmon — Copper River in Chitina, AK.

    Dip Netting on the Copper River

    24. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    A mostly overcast day with the sun making a valiant effort to peek out ... the clouds not budging despite the gusty, cold “Chitina Winds.” Our “Wrangell View” here at the campground was hidden all day.

    We took it easy this morning. After breakfast I used the wi-fi here at the campground to post yesterday’s footprints. It’s pretty speedy ... as long as you go up by the pay station to use it. Between the wi-fi at the campground and the speedy GCI connection in Chitina — both surprising finds in this remote spot — we’ve managed to stay connected with friends and family.

    Our first sightseeing stop today was near the McCarthy Road Bridge to see what dip netting on the Copper River is all about. Available only to Alaska residents as a form of subsistence fishing, each person is allowed 15 fish per family member per year. One Athabascan guy, Alan, said his quota is 45 fish ... he looked like he was well on his way to meeting that number. He also explained that fish caught in this manner cannot be sold. In fact, the tail has to be cut in a specific way before he brings his catch up from the riverbed ... or else he could face big fines.

    This method of fishing for salmon makes use of a sack-like net at the end of a very long pole. Anglers push the net off into the river and then walk along the riverbank ... moving the pole alongside ... at times wading into chest-high water. Then, they come ashore, pull the net in, and hope for a salmon or two or three. Though there were a large number of already-caught fish ashore, we never did see more than one or two fish in the nets at any one time.

    It was quite fascinating to watch. What I found particularly interesting, though, was that the ten or more bald eagles soaring overhead weren’t fishing or harassing the fishermen for their catch. Perhaps they just wait for the humans to leave. After all, there seems to be a enough salmon in the Copper River to satisfy everyone.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1Our first glimpse of the Copper River — Edgerton Highway, AK.
    1We're all parked on one side because the sites across from us are reserved — Wrangell View Cg.View of Wrangell Mountain ... as advertised by the name of the campground — Edgerton Hwy, AK.

    Day 52 Ends in Chitina

    23. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Or near Chitina, I should say. The campground — Wrangell View — is on Airport Road ... about five miles outside of the community.

    From our stop at Willow Lake, it was a short drive to the junction with the Edgerton Highway. The short, 34-mile long road is fully paved and in much better shape than some of the other highways we’ve driven on this Alaska road trip. It’s a scenic road with views of the Wrangell Mountains and the Copper River ... another one that is often described as “mighty.”

    Our campground indeed has a view of Wrangell Mountain, but only as you come into the property. This place is little more than a parking lot ... but it is quiet ... has 50A FHU sites ... and even wi-fi, though the signal is only strong by the pay station. We’ll be here two nights.

    It’s raining at the moment ... a light shower that we hope won’t extend much past tonight as we have a dirt road to navigate on Friday.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    WRST's Big Four ... L to R: Drum, Sanford, Wrangell, and Blackburn — Richardson Hwy, AK.
    1Mt Drum (12,010 ft) — Wrangell Mtns ... WRST ... Willow Lake, Richardson Hwy, AK.Mt Sanford (16,237 ft) — Wrangell Mtns ... WRST ... Willow Lake, Richardson Hwy, AK.Mt Wrangell (14,163 ft) — Wrangell Mtns ... WRST ... Willow Lake, Richardson Hwy, AK.1Mt Blackburn (16,390 ft) — Wrangell Mtns ... WRST ... Willow Lake, Richardson Hwy, AK.

    Willow Lake & WRST’s Big Four

    23. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    MAP

    The view of the Wrangell Mountain Range was beautiful from the overlook at the Wrangell-St Elias National Park & Preserve Visitor Center.

    But the view from the turnout at Willow Lake, further south on the Richardson Highway, was even better ... because Mt Sanford was not hiding behind Mt Drum. I bet that on a cold winter day the scenery is crystal clear ... we had a slight haze today.

    The spot, with views of the Big Four (only because they are the ones easily seen from the road) was a great place for a snack ... even if it was too breezy to sit outside. It also made for a nice nap spot for Mui before we continued down the road.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome to WRST — Wrangell-St Elias National Park & Preserve Visitor Center, AK.
    L to R: Mounts Sanford (barely visible), Drum, Wrangell, & Blackburn ... WRST's big four — WRST, AK.1A photo op with WRST's big four — WRST VC, AK.

    WRST is the Best

    23. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    MAP

    WRST are the initials for one of the least-known park units in the US National Park Service. As one of the rangers said ... “The initials for Wrangell-St Elias National Park Preserve might sound like it’s the worst, but WRST is the best.”

    At 13.2 million acres, WRST is the largest US national park. It is described in superlatives ... bigger than Switzerland ... six times bigger than Yellowstone National Park ... home to the greatest collection of peaks over 16,000 feet ... has the greatest concentration of glaciers on the continent. And on and on.

    WRST is nothing like the national parks in the lower 48. There are only two roads that lead into this immense park ... barely. There are no defined trails. No park activities or programs as one might expect to find in a national park. It’s all wilderness. And you’d better be self-sufficient and experienced if you plan to go exploring as you will be on your own in the vastness of the park.

    If you’re not a wilderness person, then your choices for exploring WRST are limited to flight-seeing over the park. Or getting yourself to the two private properties in the park where there are outfitters that provide touring options. We’ll be doing both ... later this week.

    In the meantime, today’s stop at the visitor center, about 8 miles south of Glennallen, was our second time in as many days. The last time, we stopped to get info on the McCarthy Road ... one of the two that goes partway into the park. The Wrangell Mountains were hiding behind a thick cloak of clouds then.

    Today we stopped because the skies were blue and the “four big ones” (visible from this area) — Sanford, Drum, Wrangell, and Blackburn — were all out of hiding. Though the Visitor Center itself is limited to rangers outside the building, we were able to check out the Exhibit Hall and watch a beautifully filmed documentary about the park.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1Matanuska Glacier from a roadside overlook — Glenn Highway, Alaska.
    Distant view of the Matanuska Glacier from the Alaska State Rec Site — Glenn Highway, AK.A small portion of the 4-mile wide terminus of Matanuska Glacier from the state rec site — Glenn HwyGlimpse of a hanging glacier — Glenn Highway, AK.Moose grazing in a pond — Glenn Highway, AK.Moose grazing in a pond — Glenn Highway, AK.Hicks Creek trying to wed with the Matanuska River — Glenn Hwy, AK.Colorful Sheep Mountain ... closed to hunting of Dall Sheep — Glenn Hwy, AK.Mama moose and calf crossing the road just ahead of us — Glenn Hwy, AK.Colorful wildflowers — Glenn Highway, AK.

    Day 51 Ends After Views of Matanuska

    22. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Although we will be driving the length of the Glenn Highway to Anchorage after our stay in Valdez, we won’t have much time to dally. So, today we did a short day drive from our base in Glennallen ... to see the Matanuska Glacier.

    Currently 4 miles wide at its terminus and 27 miles long, the glacier at one time filled the entire valley. In fact, 18,000 years ago, it crowded the area where the city of Palmer is now located ... some 60 miles or so from where we stood today to view the glacier. It is considered a stable glacier and hasn’t changed much in the last 400 years.

    Though the glacier is promoted as being one of the few that is accessible by car, that is only true if you take a tour. Since we’ve hiked on many glaciers, we skipped that activity. Instead, we enjoyed the views — distant though they were — from the Matanuska State Recreation Site where we enjoyed our picnic lunch.

    Other bonuses of the day — a moose grazing in a pond; a mama moose crossing the road in front of us with her calf; colorful wild flowers in the backyard of an old trading post; the clearing of the overcast and low clouds to reveal the beauty of Sheep Mountain ... an area closed to hunting of Dall Sheep.

    This was a really nice, relaxing outing ... a good activity before we move on to a much-anticipated part of our road trip.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Site 5 at the Northern Nights Campground — Glennallen, AK.

    Day 50 Ends in Glennallen

    21. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Today being Monday, we got caught in construction delays on the way back down the Richardson to Glennallen today. Not sure exactly what is being done, but the project looks bigger than what might be accomplished in what is a short construction season in Alaska.

    We had two reasons for coming to Glennallen, which is at the junction of the Richardson and Glenn highways. Both reasons had to do with our plans for later this week when he head to McCarthy/Kennicott.

    Since we are planning to drive the motorhome to McCarthy, we wanted to get an idea of what the road conditions would be like. We had already tried calling the National Park Service Ranger Station in Chitina and gotten voice mail. So, we decided to ask our questions at the main Visitor Center for the Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve ... just 8 miles south of Glennallen.

    As has been the case at every national park we’ve visited since COVID-19 reared its ugly head in 2020, the VC is closed, but rangers are on duty outside. The good news is that the ranger didn’t blink an eye when we said we planned to take a 28-foot motorhome over to McCarthy. Though he suggested we leave the toad in Chitina — which we had already planned on doing — he said the road was fine and we’d have no problems, except perhaps a delay at bridge that is undergoing inspection work.

    The road question answered, next we needed data/cell signal to confirm a few other plans. So, we drove back up to Glennallen and settled into one of the few 30A FHU sites at the Northern Nights Campground. The place is nothing special, but it is clean and well-maintained. It also has speedy wi-fi ... though the owners don’t guarantee that will always be the case. The property is next to a cell tower, so our data is strong anyway ... thanks to GCI’s partnership with T-Mobile.

    Since our schedule has loosened up, we are going to spend a second night here and use tomorrow to do some sightseeing along the Glenn Highway.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "we are on the Tok Cut-Off" selfie with reflections — Alaska.
    The tall peak on the right is Ahtell ... the only one that has a name — Tok Cut-Off, AK.A much-photographed sign on Nabesna Road - Wrangell-St Elias NP&P, Alaska.The view at Mile 21.8 on the Nabesna Road ... visible by climbing on top of the picnic table.Mama moose and calf in a wetlands pond — Richardson Highway, AK.

    Day 49 Ends @ Paxson Lake Cg

    20. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We left Tok with a plan. A plan that failed.

    Our idea was to drive halfway down the Tok Cut-Off and then take the Nabesna Road to one of the primitive camping sites for our overnight stop. Preferably at one of the three sites that are described as having views worth the drive.

    Nabesna Road, 42 miles in total, is one of only two roads that goes into the Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve. It’s all wilderness. The drive — as expected was slow ... the dirt/gravel/chipseal road — heavily potholed ... requiring quite a bit of fancy maneuvering. Luckily for us, we only had to drive to Mile 21.8 for the furthest of the three campsites.

    It wasn’t that we were disappointed by today’s overcast — sometimes drizzly conditions. It wasn’t that we were disappointed with the Wrangell Mountains cloaked by low-lying clouds. It wasn’t that we were disappointed that most of the views at the campsites were visible only by standing on the picnic table. No, it was the swarm of flying insects we found at each site that eventually had us deciding against camping along this road. Sure, we’ve got ways to keep the mosquitoes at bay, but nothing seems to work when it comes to black flies.

    So, we took the time to have lunch, and then drove the 21.8 miles back to the Tok Cut-Off ... managing to do the distance in 45 minutes instead of 1.5 hours as the case was on the way in.

    At the bottom off the Cut-Off, where the road junctions with the Richardson Highway, we turned north. We had not driven this section of the highway to Paxson before. In fact, it was going to be a daytrip from Glennallen later in the trip. So, we just moved it up a bit.

    OMG!!!! We’ve been told about frost heaves and potholes on Alaska Roads. And we have encountered some on practically every road. This section of the Richardson, however, was by far the worst we’ve encountered since we began our road trip on 19 May. Even some of the dirt/gravel roads we’ve driven were in better condition. Luckily, it being Sunday, at least we didn’t have to deal with construction delays ... just a light rain that pretty much accompanied us all the way.

    With the best turnouts taken over by road construction equipment, we ended up dry camping at the Paxson Lake BLM Campground, about 10 miles south of Paxson. Alas, no lakeshore sites for RVs, so we ended up in one of the woodland sites. The mosquitoes were swarming so bad that we lit the mosquito coils and placed them outside the door to clear a space before we attempted to go inside.

    As it was raining, no outside time for us. I even forgot to take a photo of our site ... perhaps somewhere deep in my psyche I didn’t want to remember this place.

    The day wasn’t all bad, though. We found a lovely lake on the Tok Cut-Off ... with mountain reflections on the still water. On the Richardson Highway, we came across a mama moose and her calf grazing in the wetlands. Ándate the Meier’s Lake Roadhouse, we had delicious hamburgers, which we washed down with Alaskan Brewing Company’s White beer.

    Every trip has a day or two like the one we had today. Fingers crossed it will be the only one. Now, I need to jiggle our plans to rearrange our upcoming days.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021

    Day 48 Ends with Chores @ the Tok RV Vlg

    19. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Nothing exciting to write about today.

    This day was set aside for errands and chores. And that’s what we did. It was a perfect day for such indoor tasks as the rain showers that began late yesterday continued on and off throughout the day.

    The laundry is washed and put away. I’m all caught up with my footprints. The Cruiser is spiffed up. The fuel is topped off — both the Cruiser and the toad. We’re ready to get back on the road. From here on out we’ll be heading south ... with a wiggle or two along the way.

    Hard to believe that we’re nearly at the half-way point of the Alaska portion of our road trip.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Bufflehead on Yarger Lake — Tetlin NWR on the Alaska Highway, AK.
    Wild Iris — Tetlin NWR on the Alaska Highway, AK.Dandelion seed heads — Tetlin NWR on the Alaska Highway, AK.The Wrangells ... from the Alaska Highway, AK.Bluets at Tetlin NWR — Alaska Highway, AK.The welcome mat is out, but the Visitor Center is closed — Tetlin NWR on the Alaska Highway, AK.Glimpse of the Tetlin NWR from the Visitor Center Deck — Alaska Highway, AK.2Seaton Pond ... a nice spot for our lunch break — Alaska Highway, AK.Moose "memory shots" at Tetlin NWR — Alaska Highway, AK.Deadman's Lake — Tetlin NWR on the Alaska Highway, AK.

    Day 47 Ends with a Drive to the Border

    18. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today’s plan was to drive the section of the Alaska Highway from Tok to where it ends at the border with Canada.

    Our purpose wasn’t to cross the border, though. After all, it’s closed ... and will remain so for at least another month. No, what we wanted to do was check out the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge ... which covers some 730,000 acres along the Alaska Highway. Established in 1980, the refuge includes hundreds of lakes, ponds, marshes, streams, and rivers ... including two that are glacial in origin. It’s definitely a haven for wildlife.

    As it turns out, we didn’t get to see much of the refuge, except for glimpses from the road. Unlike the refuges in the Lower 48, there are no roads to drive ... no trails to walk. Except for a Bufflehead on Yarger Lake and a moose grazing in a distant pond, we saw no wildlife either. To boot, the Visitor Center, which I understand has some great exhibits, was closed. Oh well.

    We wandered in and out of some of the campgrounds — just to get close to a couple of lakes; enjoyed distant views of the Wrangell Mountains, which we hope to see in closer proximity soon; and found a pond at the Seaton Roadhouse Interpretive Center that served as a nice setting for an al fresco lunch.

    The day did not turn out as expected, but we mostly enjoyed ourselves and now we don’t have to wonder if we missed anything by not driving this section of the Alaska Highway.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Tok RV Village ... the 30A section is all but empty — Tok, AK.
    We're in site 307 — 30A FHU — with the sites around us empty — Tok RV Village in Tok, AK.Site 307 ... if the campground was full, it would be tight quarters — Tok RV Village ... Tok, AK.

    Day 46 Ends @ the Tok RV Village

    17. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Tok, which has a population of little more than 1,700, began as a construction camp on the Alcan Highway back in 1942. Today, it provides services for travelers entering and exiting Alaska at Port Alcan ... some 90 miles away.

    After nearly a week of boondocking and dry camping, it was time to stay at a campground with hook-ups ... clean up the rig ... do laundry. I had initially planned on staying at Sourdough Campground, but the Tok RV Village looked better maintained. As well, being in the heart of town, it had better GCI data signal. So, we switched our plans.

    A big section of the campground that has 50A FHU sites is closed; the smaller section had a number of big rigs parked already. So, we opted for a 30A FHU site ... #307 in the row farthest from the road ... overlooking the woods. With most of the campground empty, and the two other rigs in this section all staggered, it feels like we’re all alone ... with amenities, this time.

    We’ll be here three nights ... exploring the area and doing chores and errands.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Let's see if the compressor will do the trick — Westfork BLM Cg ... Taylor Hwy, AK.
    The mechanic has the tire off and in the shop — Tok, AK.All good ... the tire is where it should be — Tok, AK.

    Ooops ... Fixed

    17. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We reversed the toad out of the campsite ... we hooked it up to the Cruiser. And that’s when we realized the toad had a flat.

    But we were prepared. Mui had brought along a compressor just for this purpose. And if that wasn’t enough he had some kind of flat-fix goop as well.

    The compressor did the trick and we made it back to Tok without mishap. At the Chevron Station, we topped off the Cruiser and Mui found a mechanic to fix the toad’s tire. Turns out that the culprit was a big ole screw.

    No idea where we got the puncture, but it’s fixed and the tire is as good as new.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Enjoying R&R @ the Westfork BLM campground — Taylor Highway, AK.
    A Hudsonian Whiteface comes calling — Westfork BLM Cg ... Taylor Highway, AK.A "we are @ the Westfork BLM Campground" selfie — Taylor Highway, AK.A "we are @ the Westfork BLM Campground" selfie — Taylor Highway, AK.

    Enjoying Site 22 @ Westfork BLM Cg

    17. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    With just 78 miles to go to return to Tok, our next base of operations, we were in no hurry to leave what we came to think of as one of our favorite campgrounds of this road trip.

    The sun out ... the patio dry ... a cup of hot tea in hand ... a light breeze to keep the campfire smoke away. Perfect. We had the whole campground to ourselves, and since we’d seen bear scat on the loop road, we cranked up the music to alert it to our presence ... just in case.

    In the end, we ended up dallying until after lunch before we finally got our act together. And then ... ooops!    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Family of Canada geese swimming in the slough — Westfork BLM Campground ... Taylor Highway, AK.
    Two goslings accompany their parents — Westfork BLM Campground on the Taylor Highway, AK.Canada geese family out for an evening outing — Westfork BLM Campground on the Taylor Highway, AK.Canada geese family out for an evening outing — Westfork BLM Campground on the Taylor Highway, AK.A crackling campfire to keep us cozy — Westfork BLM Campground on the Taylor Hwy, AK.

    Day 45 Ends with Guests @ Westfork Cg

    16. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The sound of thunder — with occasional streaks of lightning — accompanied us from our turn around point on the Taylor Highway, through the Jack Wade Junction and Chicken, and all the way back to the campground.

    Luckily, though, the rain held off until we were just a few miles from the campground. And then it poured and poured. But the rain didn’t last long. With the soil draining well, there were only a couple of small pools of water on our patio. And once the sun came out from behind the clouds, it was just too nice outside to stay indoors.

    So, we bundled up and went to sit on the patio for a couple of hours ... a crackling campfire making a nice addition to our evening ... especially since the light breeze was blowing the smoke away from us.

    I’d read that moose sometimes visited the pond — actually, a slough, as I later learned — below the campground. I kept a lookout, but we never did get visitors of the moose kind. We did, however, have a family of Canada geese come by tonight to glide around for a bit.

    It’s now 10:00p and it is raining again. I love the sound of the pitter-patter on the roof ... a nice sound to which I like to fall asleep. Methinks it is bedtime!    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Moose with fawn trotting down the Taylor Highway ... as we leave Chicken, AK (just memory shots).
    Top of the World views on the Taylor Highway ... en route to Eagle, AK.Not all custom stations on the border with Canada are open this year — Jack Wade Junction.Cliff swallows swarming at the Fortymile Bridge ... Taylor Highway en route to Eagle.We drove this section before turning back — Taylor Highway en route to Eagle.Fortymile River cutting through the valley below — Taylor Highway en route to Eagle.

    Eagle ... Not

    16. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    When we left the campground in the toad this morning, we were hoping to make it all the way to Eagle.

    So, from Chicken, we drove another 29 miles to the Jack Wade Junction. This is where the Taylor Highway turns north to Eagle ... 65 miles away. It’s also where the Boundary Road, which comes into Alaska from Canada’s Top of the World Highway, connects to the Taylor.

    We knew that the road to Eagle was gravel ... very narrow ... very curvy ... filled with potholes that needed to be negotiated ... and no barriers on the side with steep drop offs. Very tiring and stressful. Unlike the locals, who know the road and drive it at speed, I’d be very surprised if our speed even got up to 30 miles on the 20-mile stretch we drove on this road. We were very happy not to encounter vehicles on this section of the Taylor.

    I suppose we could have continued the remaining 45 miles to Eagle. After all, it doesn’t get dark around here ... even when the sun sets. But it was already 3:00p when we decided to stop ... and the GPS said it would take us another two hours to reach the Yukon River and Fort Egbert ... where the highway dead-ends. We would then have to just turn around and retrace the 110 miles back to the campground. Seeing the storm clouds gathering behind us, the smart move was to turn back.

    Alas, another road that we didn’t get to complete. Maybe we’ll try again when we eventually drive up through Canada ... someday!    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    A "selfie with Eggee" — Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost, AK.
    Some of the "chicken-like" towns from around the world — Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost, AK.Eggee was "born" in Homer and moved here by truck — Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost, AK.Pedro Dredge #4 — Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost, AK.Cliff swallows nesting on the dredge — Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost, AK.Town of Chicken ... this is it — Chicken, AK.Another chicken photo op — Town of Chicken in Chicken, AK.Chickens-to-be — Town of Chicken in Chicken, AK.Chickens with Alaska Humor — Downtown Chicken, AK.Pedro Dredge #4 & Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost ... from the Taylor Highway, AK.

    Chicken: Eggee & Friends

    16. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    The sign entering Chicken describes it not as a town or city, but as a community. With a population around 25 — in the summer — that’s probably a good description. You’ve got to be hardy and self-reliant to live here. No sewer or other city services. The people generate their own electricity, provide their own water.

    Tradition has it that the early miners who settled the area wanted to name their little community ptarmigan. But no one knew how to spell the word, so they settled on chicken, which is the name of which the bird is known in the north. The locals play up the name with all things chicken.

    There are three businesses here — all geared towards tourists ... Chicken Gold Camp & Outpost; Downtown Chicken (which claims to be the original Chicken); and Town of Chicken. Each is privately owned and operated. Of the three, Town of Chicken was closed, so we only got to check out the other two.

    The Chicken Gold Camp has the most famous of the three “chicken photo ops.” Eggee, as the giant sculpture is known, was built in Homer out of recycled school lockers, and transported 615 miles to Chicken by truck. We had hoped to get something to go for lunch from the bakery here, but they only had grilled sandwiches on the menu, so we made do with a brownie.

    We didn’t spend much time at Town of Chicken, where we stopped later, because the old codger sitting outside the bar wasn’t welcoming. Too bad.

    The businesses in Chicken have suffered tremendously during the pandemic ... especially since the border with Canada remains closed. The RVers that come through here — either in their rigs or their toads — are the bread and butter of these businesses. I fear they will have to wait another season before things pick up again.    Les mer

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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    This quaint post office dates back to 1903 — Chicken, AK.
    It's all about chickens here — Chicken Post Office, AK.Alaska humor ... sign in the post office window — Chicken, AK.Pine Grosbeak exploring the dredge with us — Chicken, AK.Info board explaining the operation — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe Draw Works — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe trommel screen where the gold was captured — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKGears — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKThe Lever System — Jack Wade Dredge Exhibit in Chicken, AKShowy Jacob's Ladder — Chicken Post Office, AK.

    Chicken: Post Ofc & Gold Dredge

    16. juni 2021, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today’s plan was to hop in the toad and explore Chicken ... 15 miles up the road from our campground. We’d heard horror stories about potholes and frost heaves on theTaylor Highway. We found both, but except in a few places, repairs had already been made.

    Our first stop was at the Chicken Post Office, which dates back to 1903. Not because we had any business to transact, but because bits and pieces of the Jack Wade Dredge are exhibited nearby. Turns out that we were charmed by the log cabin post office, and its little garden, and the chicken memorabilia tucked into nooks and crannies.

    The dredge was sent up here in 1906-1907 from Dawson City, in Canada’s Yukon Territory, by way of the Fortymile River. A bucket line dredge, it was one of the first to operate in the local mining district that is described as being the place of the 1886 Gold Rush before “the Gold Rush” ... the latter being a reference to the Klondike Gold Rush of 1896.

    The dredge was apparently dismantled by the BLM and moved here in 2007. Having already seen a dredge of this kind on the Steese Highway, we appreciated the well-done info board nearby that explained how it was used to mine gold.    Les mer

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