Camino Frances

I left my comfortable, but not totally welcoming albergue run by a german couple early. The sun rises behind me as I walk most days, making my shadow long.

Today’s walk was long and partially uphill but there was more shade than previous treks. However, the flies appeared to find the shade just as appealing and they came out in droves before it was even noon. On previous days, I’ve managed to escape their torment by walking early in the morning, before it got too hot. Every buzz enraged me and I probably looked and sounded insane as I swatted and growled at the tiny black bugs that seemed intent to crawl into my nose and fly into my eyes.

I paused for pizza and a coke with Phil from New Zealand and Dautsen from Belgium in San Juan de Ortega and set out on my diverging path to make it to the only accommodation I could find with a reasonable price. Unfortunately, that last 8km of alternative Camino was along the road. Fortunately, a strong wind blew along the road and the flies finally left me alone. Still, it was a long day and from km 21 to km 29, I was very hot and tired as there was nearly no shade and my pack somehow felt heavier today.

I made it to my hotel, however: a blessed private room that is nothing special, but is all my own where I can even lock the door. It’s nap time now and I relish simply being off my feet.Read more