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CAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTA
  • kim.walks on Instagram
  • kim.walks on Instagram

CAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTA

First solo trip on the Camino de Santiago
Coastal Route from Porto, Portugal Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 7, 2023
    kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler

    10 days!!!!

    August 27, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    10k training walk with a full pack. Currently weighing 8lbs without water. Listening to a Camino podcast for inspiration. Actually 10 days until I leave. Countdown is on!

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler

    First stamp

    September 4, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Today I met up with David and Colleen from the Canadian company of pilgrims (Hamilton chapter). I had asked if the Hamilton chapter had their own stamp for my credential. They did, and I would be the first, in their capacity as coordinators, to receive one. A beautiful wax seal with a scallop shell. I’m honoured.
    David also gifted me a real scallop shell, from Galicia. He drilled a hole in it so that I can attach it to my backpack.
    We had a wonderful conversation, they answered all my questions, put my mind at ease and sent me off with a special Camino Blessing. I think I’m ready!    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler

    Packing List

    September 5, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Currently weighing 13lbs without water.
    I’ve decided to not take the walking poles, I will buy a pair in Porto. I would have to put them in checked baggage and the ones I have do not collapse small enough to fit comfortably on my backpack.

    35L Backpack:
    Sun hat
    Toiletries
    Brush
    Towel
    Medication
    First aid/foot care
    Leggings
    Shorts
    1 Long sleeve
    2 short sleeve
    Dress
    3 sports bras
    3 underwear
    4 socks
    Bathing suit
    2 Buffs
    Sunglasses
    Rain jacket
    Crocs
    Chargers
    Headlamp
    Europe converter
    Selfie stick/tripod
    AirPods/headphones
    Sleeping bag liner
    Fold up shopping bag
    Assorted clips, carabiners and safety pins
    Lock
    Crocs

    Fanny Pack:
    Guidebook
    Passport
    Credentials
    Cash/credit

    Wearing on the plane (not pictured)
    Hiking pants
    Sleep t-shirt
    Fleece
    Hokas    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    City Hall
    1Porto São Bento - train station1Sé do Porto - CathedralFirst route markerPillory, which symbolizes justice. According to legend, the city’s criminals were once hanged on it.

    A day in Porto

    September 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Arrived in Porto at 11:30am. After I figured out my esim at the airport I took the metro to the city centre, Trindade station (€2.75).
    First up was the Porto Cathedral for my stamp and then I walked around the city for a bit.
    I’m staying at the Albergue de Peregrinos Porto - I think it was all up hill from the Cathedral. I definitely should have changed into shorts!Went for a walk to Decathlon after dinner looking for poles…they were sold out. Had a glass of wine with Kathy, Laurie and Molly from Washington. In bed by 8:30…exhausted, I did not get any sleep on the plane.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    The Boa Nova LighthouseObelisco da Praia da Memória - MatosinhosIs the Amazing Race in Portugal? No…just a flag indicating a beach3Chapel of São Paio built in 18852Boardwalk covered in sand and broken in some areas. Really hard to walk throughJudy from Texas...she's celebrating her 70th birthday in Santiago de CompostelaChapel of S Sebastian - AzuraraSaint John's Square FountainMy bed for the night. HI VILA DO CONDE - POUSADA DE JUVENTUDEHamburger with ham, cheese, lettuce and tomoato, fries and a Somersby. 11€

    Day 1 Porto to Vila do Conde

    September 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I took the metro to Matosinhos, where I met up with Lisa and Carolyn from Portland. The stock advice when beginning the camino (any version), is not to walk too far on your first day. Thank goodness I only planned for a 23km day. You may think it is "just walking." In other words, How hard could it be? As it turns out, pretty hard! I started overheating and needed to slow down. I said goodbye to Lisa and Carolyn, took a rest in the shade and drank lots of water, and felt better fairly quickly. Thankfully there are lots of taps and water fountains along the beaches.

    I stopped for lunch and met Judy from Texas, we walked the rest of the way to Vila do Conde together. Judy will celebrate her 70th birthday in Santiago.
    My Albergue is so cute! There is a lady from Italy in my room who has a manicure with the scallop shell…it matches my pedicure. Also in my room is Alette from the Netherlands. We went for dinner together. We were looking for a steakhouse but it was closed. A local man saw our frustration and walked us to another restaurant, O Mestre, where we had burgers and a much needed drink. It was a great 1st day.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Thunderstorm in Vila do Conde
    Igreja de Nossa Senhora da LapaTiles in Póvoa de VarzimLifeguard4Fellow pilgrims watching the sunset

    Day 2 Vila do Conde to Aguçadoura

    September 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Short walking day today, only 10km. There was a terrific thunder storm last night, thankfully it did not continue this morning. Walked by myself today, listening to my book, “An Echo in the Bone”, on Audible. I have a bit of heat rash around my ankles and a few blisters from walking to dinner in my Crocs 🤦🏼‍♀️. A Portuguese lady in the Albergue said the locals call the rash “street rash” as it’s from walking on hot pavement. She gave me recommendations for cream that I could get from the pharmacy.
    I went to the “Farmácia” in Aguçadoura but the pharmacist said not to waste my money. Keep it covered and it will go away. He did give me a stamp in my credential and a souvenir bar of soap. 😆
    My Albergue today is just steps from the ocean! I tried to go in the water but it was too rough to go in past my knees.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    1
    1Fão Bridge - Iron truss bridgeSouvenir shopTosta HavanezaMuseu Maritimo de Esposende1Quilts in the wild 😉21

    Day 3 Agucadoura to Esposende

    September 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another short day, 11km. My pack is getting lighter…probably because I’m losing my gear 😂 Adapter in Porto and sleep liner and ear plugs in Vila do Conde. I was able to replace the adapter at the “Chinese store” for 8€.
    Todays walk was a mix of boardwalk, cobblestones and forest. It was nice to have the shade. Arrived in Esposende early, had lunch and wandered around town.
    Yesterday on my walk a lady on the street gave me a scallop shell charm…Bom Caminho! So sweet. Today I was able to get a leather necklace for it    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Igreja Matriz de Esposende (Mother Church) dates back to 1566
    Forte de Sao Joao BaptistaEucalyptus forest2View to the ocean3Rio Neiva1Me and St. James after the climb1Donations-clothes that are not serving me wellIgreja Santiago de Castelo do Neiva-consecration of the original church from the year 862Fruit, snacks and drinks by donation

    Day 4 Esposende to Anha

    September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Part 1 Left the Albergue before sunrise, 7:00am. Today was a 20km day over a mountain!! Literally, 140m elevation through cobblestone streets, and forest paths. It was tough, but so worth it. So much beauty and history.Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Wow!1Queen of SeaForte Santiago da Barra1Forte da Areosa113

    Day 5 Anha to Vila Praia de Ancora

    September 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Another mountain to climb, a bridge to cross, more cobblestones and boardwalks. 24km
    Lots of forts along this stretch and abandoned lighthouses. The formation of rock along the shoreline is 450 million years old. Stunning! I walked most of the way with Teresa from Georgia. We would meet up almost daily over the next week…purely by coincidence.Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    113

    Day 5 part 2

    September 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The Albergue I’m staying at is cute, right across the street from the beach.
    The restaurants don’t open until 7:30 so I bought some spaghetti and made my own dinner. 5.45€ and I have a zucchini and some cheese leftover. I’ll pack up for my dinner tomorrow night.
    Last sunset in Portugal, into Spain by boat tomorrow.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Santo Isadoro Chapel - 19th CenturyThe old and the new22The horse I saved...because I want to be near the waterThis tree was huge! Hard to tell how big in this photoA market I couldn't shop at 😒13

    Day 6 Vila Praia de Ancora to Caminha

    September 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    My last day in Portugal! I left the Albergue at 7:00 am and walked to Caminha on my own, bouncing back and forth between the coastal and the Litoral routes. Stopped for breakfast at a supermercado - fruit and yogurt. I saved a horse from being tangled up in his leash and met up with Teresa again at the water taxi.
    See part 2 for Spain!    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    2
    22Forte da Insua - at the mouth of the Miño RiverSalt flats111Sangria and Puntillas de calamarAlbergue O PeiraoIgreja de Santa Maria da GuardaMuseo do Mar da Guarda1

    Day 6 Caminha to A Guarda Spain

    September 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The water taxi was fun, we actually got a ride to a different location because the tide was too low. We disembarked on the beach and walked through the most amazing forest.
    It was a short walk to A Guarda. What a beautiful seaside town. Teresa (Robinson, how funny is that) came to my Albergue for a bed but they were full. I walked her to the municipal and then went to find some food.
    I went back to the Albergue for laundry and a shower and then back out to find dinner and breakfast for tomorrow.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Parroquia de Santa María da Guarda11Prettiest washroom I've seen!Cetareas are natural nurseries built on the rocks of the coast, to store shellfish, mainly lobsterFollow the yellow brick road...2Hi Mom3Jean and DoryHotel Glasgow12

    Day 7 A Guarda to O Serrallo

    September 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Slight change of plans. I was supposed to walk to Oia, but I made my reservation for the 13th instead of the 14th 🙄 I had it in my calendar as the 14th…anyway, they were booked for tonight. So I’m pampering myself and staying in a hotel just the other side of Oia. They have a pool and I get breakfast.
    The walk was good, 18km. More hills! Who said Camino Portuguese is flat?? I met up with some ladies I first met in Esposende. Dory from Florida and her mum Jean (87) from North Carolina…wow! I’ll stop complaining now.
    I had my first “Menú del Peregrino” or Pilgrim´s menu at the Hotel Glasgow. Came with a full bottle of wine for 20€. I’m now half way to Santiago!    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Does this mirror make me look thinner?
    Glasgow Hotel1A Pedra RubiaCape Silleiro LighthouseGlamping do Mar- Cool!Cies IslandsBaiona1Black cherry gelato1Paella de Marisco and Sangria

    Day 8 O Serrallo to Baiona

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It was great sleeping in a room by myself! Woke up at 7:30, breakfast at 8:00. Breakfast was so good! Breads, pastries, coffee, orange juice, fruit, meat, cheese, hard boiled eggs, yogurt and cereal.
    I walked on the PO552 which took me around the mountain rather than following the Camino over the mountain. It was all road walking, but there is a nice wide yellow path to follow, ocean views and a cool breeze.
    First stop, ice cream and then off to find the Albergue. After a shower and laundry I walked down to the waterfront for dinner. Most of the restaurants had Paella as a special, so I picked one with the best view of the harbour. So good!    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Hito de Mougas
    3Playa de los Cristales (Praia dos Cristais)1

    Bruce Christenson 1943-2022 ❤️

    September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    My Dad passed away October 18, 2022 very suddenly. When I told him I wanted to walk the Camino….he said “I’ll come”, no hesitation.
    I booked my trip in January 2023.
    I brought some of his ashes with me, and scattered them at Praia dos cristais de Silleiro. It was the perfect place. He was a collector of beach glass, loved going on holiday to the beach and even lived at the beach for awhile.
    The last time I saw my Dad, we went to Grimsby beach to see the “Painted Ladies”. While we were there I picked up a stone and took it home. I’m not sure why I did that, I don’t collect stones or seashells. I painted that stone in memory of my Dad and left it at Hito de Mougas.
    Rest in Peace Dad, I miss you ❤️    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    1
    Climbing up1The view was worth the climb196km to SantiagoSenda del Agua Trail21Sweet Chestnut or Spanish ChestnutFonte da Mina do Conde1Rain delay - it stopped right after I took shelter1Lucking out with bottom bunks!

    Day 10 Vigo to Redondela

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had to leave the Albergue by 8:00am today, so an early start it was. We had some steep up hill climbs but the view was worth it. After that it levelled off through tranquil woodland paths. This type of walking is my favourite.
    There was a tour group just behind me, it was awful. Too much chatter, so I put my ear buds in until they stopped for a break.
    Just before entering Redondela it started to rain, I put on my rain jacket and then it stopped…figures.
    Arrived at my Albergue just after 12:00. Perfect timing as it started to rain again shortly after. I did laundry got caught up on my posts (no wifi yesterday) and had a snack. It’s Sunday so not much is open. Hoping to get dinner out later.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    111Stamp! Ended up as an advertisement for a bar ☹️1Surfing competition was starting as i walked through this areaLunch

    Day 9 Baiona to Vigo

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    I wasn’t really feeling it today. The Albergue didn’t have coffee and I walked for about an hour before I found some. After having my coffee there was a rainbow, things were looking up, I thought.
    The weather forecast said rain but we only had a 5 min sun shower just before noon. Great!
    I met Zie from Sweden, we walked most of the way together and stopped for lunch. I had “Choquitos Plancha”… little octopus 🐙. They were grilled but I did not enjoy them. Zie had “Pescaditos Fritos” little fried white fish, they were pretty good if you can get over eating around the head and tail.
    The walk after lunch was long and hot. Walking into Vigo was along the port, mostly shipyards…think Burlington Street. Not nice.
    I arrived at the Public Albergue after 5pm, I stopped at the grocery store for dinner. I know the Albergue does not have a cooking area. There are lots of rules but few amenities. A rubber mattress and no sheets! The one time when I could really use my sleep liner. I guess you get what you pay for, it was only 8€.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Free stamp, and bracelet for 1€
    2This was so scary! How many people have died?1Drinks - pay what you can1This Roman bridge dates from the 2nd century C.E.Street art in Pontevedra2

    Day 11 Redondela to Pontevedra

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Back to the walking that I love the most…through the woods. It was an excellent day, even though we did have some rain. By the afternoon the sun was out and my feet were dry. That’s all I needed.
    Today was extremely busy on the Camino. This is where those walking the last 100km from Tui join the route. Time to book my last few days of accommodation!!
    I walked for a bit with Dana from Minnesota, but she was moving slowly due to foot issues. She did suggest I take the river route going into Pontevedra to avoid the crowds. It was wonderful. I met a lady from Australia, originally from Scotland, who has family in Hamilton. Small world 🌎
    The Albergue is clean and modern with washer and dryer and a great shower. I split laundry costs with my dorm mate, Mary-Ann from Vancouver, also a member of CCOP 🇨🇦    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina (Church of the Pilgrim Virgin)
    1211Thermal Baths in Caldas de ReisGin and Tonic

    Day 12 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

    September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    After being woken up at 6am, I put my ear plugs in and slept til 8am.
    I walked most of the way on my own, listening to a book on Audible. It’s becoming very crowded the closer we get to Santiago. I don’t like it.
    I walked with Paul (Canada) and his wife Cheryl (Florida) for a bit. Paul is a retired Air Canada pilot now living in Florida.
    Today we walked through a lot of vineyards. Of course I tasted the grapes 🍇 sweet.
    Checked in to the Albergue Albor, such a beautiful stamp. Met Barbara and Bridget from Germany. Lucked out with another bottom bunk. After we got settled we walked to the thermal spa to soak our feet and then to the grocery store for dinner. The restaurants don’t open til 8pm and we were too hungry to wait. We picked up fresh ravioli and sauce, it hit the spot. After dinner we went for drinks and wandered around town.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    44.270 kms
    KaleChurch of Santa Marina de Carracedo1Hiking with littles1Los Molinos route - based on 18th century water mills33 kmsCemeterySt. James as a pilgrim12Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol de Padrón517.720 kms2Camiño da Vieira11Straight line is where I forgot to take off pause.

    Day 13 Caldas de Reis to La Coruña

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    My penultimate day on the Camino de Santiago. A longer day today, so that I can have a shorter day tomorrow.
    The walking today reminded me of our hiking trails at home. Pine trees, oak trees and ferns.
    Padrón is the last stop before Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Portugués pilgrim route. A must see is Igrexa de Santiago. Beneath the church's high altar stands a Roman sacrificial altar known as the Pedrón (Big Stone) – which gave Padrón its name. According to legend, the boat bearing Santiago's body was moored to the Pedrón on arrival.
    The 7 or so kms after Padrón were the longest of my life! I finally arrived at my Albergue, and it’s beautiful. The owners dog even came for a visit. He’s my new best friend after feeding him my pizza crust.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    "NO ORIS ESES DSP" - "To Neptune, the Orieses put this monument at their expense"119.570 kms1Which way? both lead to the same place. I went left.3Bagpiper in the tunnel as you enter the Plaza del Obradoiro1Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela3Pimientos de PadrónCompostela - first name always in latin1Certificado - distance walked - 280kmsIvar operates a very informative Camino forum, luggage storage and store.1Fonte dos Cabalos - Fountain of the horses1

    Day 14 La Coruña to Santiago

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I made it! 280km in 14 days.
    I walked by myself today. I was surprisingly emotional, I even teared up when I arrived at the Cathedral. Partly the joy of making it and partly that there was no one there to share it with.
    The Praza do Obradoiro (the golden square of Santiago) was so crowded. I sat for a few minutes, tried to take a few selfies and then went to the Pilgrim office to get my Compostela and certificado, for distance travelled. It was very fast and efficient . The women that helped me was from Ottawa and she said I was the first CCOP credential she had seen.
    After getting my documents I sat at one of the patios with a view of the Cathedral and had some Pimientos de Padrón and a G&T.
    It started to rain, but luckily I was covered. When the rain stopped I made my way to the Albergue, Seminario Menor.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Albergue Seminario Menor
    Elevator! No more stairs2My private roomView from the SeminarioAsparagus with 2 sauces2Grilled sole with salad2They don't do dessert well 🙄Church of San Bieito do CampoInterior3

    Santiago de Compostela

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    After checking in to the Albergue Seminario Menor I met up with Barbara and Briget from Germany. They invited me to join them for dinner at Casa Manola. They have a pilgrim dinner for 13€, which included a starter, main dish and dessert. While we were waiting for the restaurant to open we met Gerry and Karen from Kelowna BC, and decided that we would all sit together. They are also of German origin, and were able to speak German with B&B. We exchanged contact info and have an open invitation to visit BC and stay in their home!
    After dinner we walked back to the Cathedral to see it lit up at night. I bought a Camino tile at one of the souvenir shops, to hang at home and remind me of this epic journey. A great end to an amazing day.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    At the bus station
    The Central House Porto Ribeira1Caves Cálem - port wine❤️1131Luís I BridgeMosteiro da Serra do PilarBolinho de Bacalhau 3€ and Pizza Romana 7.50€Citynizers 🌃1

    Santiago de Compostela to Porto

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    My last day in Spain and Portugal. I travelled by bus back to Porto at 11:30am and checked into my Albergue around 3:30pm.
    The Albergue is steps from the Rio Douro. I walked along one bank of the river, crossed the Ponte Luis Bridge and walked along the other bank.
    I did some souvenir shopping at the markets, visited the Sardine shop, the Port makers and took a ride on the cable car.
    Finished the night off at the bar in the cellar of my Albergue. They have the best music playing! Billy Idol, ZZ Top, Heart… and a live band. They don’t go on til 10, but the warm up sounded good.
    Met Linda from Australia, she’s walking from Lisbon. She pulled out this little book called “How to Walk” and read me a page titled “Arriving”. We had a great conversation.    Read more

  • kim.walks on InstagramCAMINO PORTUGUÉS DE LA COSTATraveler
    Igreja de Santo António dos Congregados
    21Leaving Porto OPO2Arriving in Toronto YYZ

    Travel Day

    September 23, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    On my way home. Left the Albergue before 8am, after being woken early by amorous travellers….seriously, in a bunk bed!
    Stopped at the prettiest McDonald’s for an orange juice then made my way to the metro.
    Arrived at the airport by 9:30am, through security and duty free by 11:00am.
    Time for lunch. Decided to stay with the junk food theme and had an Angus Grill at Burger King. The drink is massive, 750ml.
    Bought a bottle of Portuguese Gin at Duty Free….the entire bottle gone, leaked during the flight. Still sealed in a box, a bag and appears unbroken 😩    Read more

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