SE Asia

3月 2024 - 7月 2025
  • Phoebe Fox
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Food, thoughts and photos もっと詳しく
  • Phoebe Fox
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  • KL volunteering day 6 & 7

    2024年7月24日〜25日, マレーシア ⋅ 🌩️ 34 °C

    No market this morning, so I got a lie in, then was greeted with little boxes of food when I eventually went downstairs.
    Leon got a flight early this morning so I'm the only volunteer here for now. I too was only meant to be doing a week, however it's so lovely here, I've got no plans and they've got no volunteers til next week, so I think I'm going to stay until Sunday. It feels very homely here, Lili and Popo are so welcoming and generous, plus I love getting taken to all the local food spots and markets!
    It was super quiet today, we didn't have anyone in at all. Lili has been thinking about adding roti canai to the cooking class list, so she'd made up a batch of dough, and we tried stretching and shaping it out. It was so much harder than all the street vendors make it look! Our dough wasn't very stretchy so our rotis didn't turn out very flakey, but they were still super tasty with some coconut jam for lunch.
    I did some cleaning, then Lili decided to close early as she thought we all needed a rest, which was lovely.
    I napped, then we headed out for a night market at 6. Traffic was horrendous so instead of 20 minutes, it took and hour and 20! By the time we got there we were all starving! The market was on a street adjacent to a very busy road. Must've been hundreds of stalls in a row, lining this one long street. It was very busy as this particular market is only open on Wednesdays.
    We slowly made our way down, buying different snacks as we made our way down and eating them on our way. Once we reached the end, we circled back and found somewhere to sit and got a few bigger dishes. I think I ended up eating more dessert than I did savory! My favourite of the bunch was a red bean and strawberry mochi.
    The next day we went to a food hall with breakfast and I was introduced to 'the best carrot cake in the world'. It wasn't carrot cake as we know it, instead a dish made with radishes which was savoury and didn't resemble a cake at all! It was fried cubes of white radish stir fried with bean sprouts and egg. It was absolutely delicious! The reddish was crunchy on the outside but melted in your mouth.
    Again today we weren't too busy. I popped out for a coffee then wandered back to help with the lunch time service. After 4 we had no customers, so again Lili decided to close early and we headed out for dinner :) One of their friends joined us and we went to a vegan Japanese restaurant and got some delicious vegan sushi. For dessert, we ventured back again to the shop that did Chinese sweet soup. This time the owner was there and beckoned us over to sit with him. Lili and Popo sat and chatted to him for over an hour in Cantonese, I got some bits translated for me and he showed us how the soup is made. Apparently they're the only shop in KL that still makes the soup the traditional way, grinding all the ingredients by hand with a huge stone contraption.
    I don't think I ever go more than a hour hungry here, I'm constantly eating and always go to bed full (no complaints hehe).
    もっと詳しく

  • Breakfast
    Garden goodsWe got lost in this mall, 6 floors before level 1!Vegetable rojak, a mix of veg, tofu, crackers, bread (everything) I'm sweet spicy sauceFried bananas and choco sprinklesOur first beer in a weekDurian taste testingMaking of dragon's beard candyNight market goodsNext day, fruit and veg marketYoung fern heads, (later to be cooked into a dish called pucuk paku masak lemak)Breakfast buffetMasala chai (tea)Admiring Popo's skillfully wateringWinning cooking class teamOur delicious cookingCutest lil jelly mice I bought for us to try (SUPER disappointing in taste :( )Chuffed with our cooking certificatesBucket of dessertDessert stop no.2, final one with the three of us :((

    KL days off

    2024年7月22日〜23日, マレーシア ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today we had a day off!
    We got taken for breakfast, then tagged along with Lili and Popo's weekly trip to see her Dad. He lives in the next state over from Kuala Lumpur, but it only took 40 minutes to drive. On the way, Lili pulled over at a street stall and bought us some snacks as she was worried we'd get hungry! We tried deep fried cempedak, which is a fruit very similar to jackfruit, however fried it was very mushy and neither of us liked it much.
    As soon as we arrived at her Dad's, Leon was put to work chopping down some bananas in the garden which no one else could reach (he's very tall, 6'5!). We got a lil tour around the garden, a lot of which Lili uses in her cooking at Sarang, and got to nibble on lots of different vegetables and herbs.
    Lili and Popo then left to go visit her auntie who lives nearby, and we sat with her dad. Well Leon talked to him and I promptly fell asleep on the sofa.
    In the afternoon we explored the nearby mall and found coffee and arcade games to entertain ourselves. We then got snacks at some nearby stalls which Lili had recommended. As we were finishing off our food, Lili pulled up in her car as she was also grabbing food, so we managed to get a lift with her back to her dad's! Lili's brother and his kids had arrived for the family meal Popo was cooking up. We stayed for a bit, before getting a taxi to the nearby night market.
    The market was surrounding a town square, and the streets were packed with food stalls. We did a lap, before going to the durian stall and purchasing a Durian. It called the king of fruits, and is super popular is SE Asia but particularly in Malaysia, plus it's Durian season so they're EVERYwhere. We asked for the sweetest fruit which we quoted £16 for!! So instead, with some help from a local, we picked up a much cheaper smaller variety to try. They tap it with a cleaver knife to check it's okay, the split the spikey fruit open and hand it over to you in a basket with some gloves.
    Durian has a very distinct potent smell, so much so it's banned on public transport and in most indoor spaces (like hotels). It wasn't actually as bad as either of us were expecting. Was oddly creamy, nice initial taste but then a very strong funky aftertaste.
    Feeling very brave for trying, we then went to seek out some other food to get the taste out our mouths haha. There was so much choice, we only managed a few dishes before feeling stuffed. But it was definitely the best food market I've been to so far! So much choice and really lively, we were the only westerners I spotted other than one other lady. We bought some popcorn tofu and the lady running the stall wanted to get a photo of us for her Instagram ha.
    We then got scooped up by Lili and Popo just after 9, and driven home.
    Even though the next morning the restaurant was closed, there was a last minute cooking class booked in, so we got taken to an early morning fruit and vegetable market to pick up supplies, then to a local buffet for breakfast. We helped set up for the cooking class. The people taking it were a family from Saudi, and had asked if there were other people participating in the class, as they didn't want to be the only ones. So very luckily, me and Leon got to join in and cosplay as travellers who had signed up for the class, and not people who worked there!
    The cooking class was a lot of fun, we found out more of the history of Perkanan food, and got a proper tour of the herb garden. Perkanan or Nynona food names are inspired by the merchants who settled here. The main curry we made was called Kapitan curry (captain curry) and the roti jala we made alongside it, looks and translates to net pancakes.
    We were divided into teams and cooked up dishes, it was created into a competition and marked up on presentation and taste ( we won).
    We sat down and enjoyed the rewards of our cooking, then after the family left we had to go back to being volunteers and help clear up. Lili took us out for one final dessert run for the three of us, and Leon was leaving in the morning.
    もっと詳しく

  • KL volunteering day 3, 4 & 5

    2024年7月21日〜23日, マレーシア ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    This morning I got up in time to join Lili, Popo and Leon for breakfast. We left around 7.30 and were taken to a little local noodle stand that was kind of a pick and mix of different noodles and toppings.
    Instead of a market, we shopped in a big wholesalers supermarket for ingredients needed for today, and also shopped for ingredients to make a carrot cake. Lili is very relaxed and said we can use the kitchen to cook whatever we like. When I suggested making a cake, she was very pleased and I didn't realise I'd be making a massive industrial sized tray of it!
    Walking around the shop, me and Leon did wonder what people thought of us. We kind of looked like a little family. We call Lili's mum Popo, which means grandma in Cantonese ( they are Chinese Malay). Lili says she gets people double taking when they hear volunteers call Popo in public, especially as she has up to four volunteers with her when it's busy, usually varying nationalities and ages.
    After baking my carrot cake, I wandered to the local food mall which had a massive food shop at the bottom. I got very excited seeing lots of British brands of food in there, as well as food I hadn't eaten in 4 months. They even had a small section of Sainsburys products which I thought was kind of bizarre. When I got back the restaurant was actually quite full, so I hopped into the kitchen early to help with food service. Lili tends to be in charge of drinks, any cold food, side dishes, rice, basically all the accompaniments, and Popo makes the main dishes, which are mostly curries and stews. They make all the food traditionally, with the original herbs and spices and by using pesal and mortars instead of blenders, so the food takes longer than most places to prepare. I helped out where I could, chopping up bits and bobs and plating up things.
    We ended up closing earlier than 8 as we'd run out of quite a few dishes. Lili trys to work on pre orders so it's easier to stock on ingredients from the market, but with lots of walk-ins, it's easy to run out things as the ingredients are bought in small quantities to keep them fresh!
    The next day, I said I'd make food for dinner, so I chopped and roasted some veg for a ratatouille in the morning then wandered out. When I came back to help out, it wasn't super busy so I did a bit of cleaning, served a few people then carried on cooking. I ended up making some flatbread too as we had no bread, and dinner went down as a success. After washing up, me and Leon walked to the mall and grabbed dessert.
    The day after, during my shift I spent over 1 & 1/2 hours pounding shallots and garlic by hand in a pestal and mortar. Though I think I got off lightly as Leon had spent longer trying to peel them all! We had a table pre booked, so Lili showed me how to make a few of the dishes, then I went out and served for a couple of hours. Popo cooked us up dinner, then we gave the kitchen a big clean as it was the last day of service before they closed for two days (Monday Tuesday). After scrubbing the floors, Lili drove us to a traditional Chinese dessert restaurant. They served sweet soup, which came in four flavours, peanut, black sesame, walnut and almond. If you mixed flavours, they create a picture out of the different colour soups. I opted for almond and sesame, so got a questionable looking black and white panda drawn into my soup. It was very delicious, and a really cute restaurant. We then got taken to another dessert shop down the road, where we tried another 6 different sweat treats, including a hot barely coconut soup, lotus seed pastries and sweetcorn set custard squares (my favourite). It was so nice being taken out by a local who could show us the best spots and buy us foods she thought we'd like.
    もっと詳しく

  • Lunch on arrival
    Kitchen I'm helping inThe restaurantAll different types of aubergines! Tiny green ones that look like grapes included!JackfruitPetai or stinky beansNext day, breakfast bought for me from the marketCrème brulée banana french toast for brunchUR-MU art galleryStinky beans in art formStreet art streets

    KL volunteering day 1 & 2

    2024年7月17日〜18日, マレーシア ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Today I started volunteering in a little family run restaurant/ cookery school. It specialises in Peranakan cuisine, which is the ancient fusion of Malaysian, Chinese and South Indian styles of cooking, dating back 500-600 years ago when Chinese merchants settled down in Melaka.
    I got to the restaurant at around 11 and was greeted by Lili, who runs the place and her mum, Popo (78) who helps out. They rely on volunteers so have no other staff, and coincidentally I actually met the other volunteer, a German guy called Leon, in our hostel in Melaka. We divided up the shifts, so Leon would help out 11-4 and I'd do 4-9. The restaurant itself opens 12-8, and probably only has the capacity to seat 25 people, plus they mainly operate by bookings and pre-booked meals.
    It wasn't super busy on my first day so I helped up with cleaning and did a little bit of food prep. After dinner, Lili drove us to a produce night market, to pick up a few things she needed for tomorrow. It was full of fresh fruit and veg, a lot of it I'd never seen before!
    The next morning I didn't wake up in time to join the rest of the team to the morning market, but was greeted with a little box of food Lili had picked up for me when I went downstairs for breakfast. I then met up with the aussie girl I'd previously hung out with in my last hostel for brunch, and we ventured to a cool little modern art gallery with some quirky paintings and statues. I got back to Sarang (the restaurant) just in time to start my shift and again just did some food prep and then waitressed for a few tables.
    Pretty much all the food here is provided, Popo cooked us dinner. She doesn't speak a lot of English, but is a very sweet old lady and we manage to communicate through broken English and body language. Every time before we eat she asks if I'm hungry and my answer is always yes! 😁
    もっと詳しく

  • Melaka day 3 + Melaka ➡️ Kuala Lumpur

    2024年7月15日〜16日, マレーシア ⋅ 🌩️ 30 °C

    Checked out some of the street art in town and had a chilled out day hopping from cafe to restaurant to cafe. I met up with another person in the evening and we walked out of town a bit to a nice veggie restaurant on the outskirts. We shared food so we could max out the number of dishes we could try, it was very tasty but they didn't serve alcohol so we then ventured to a nice bar along the river and had some beers.
    The next day I got a bus back to KL. I'm starting a new volunteer place tomorrow, so just have one night in a hostel. I splashed out and went for the highest hostel in Kuala Lumpur, 34 floors high to be specific! It's in a converted penthouse and has access to a fancy infinity pool on top of another building. I did plan to walk around a bit, but I met a nice Aussie girl in my hostel, so we just chatted away for the afternoon, then headed out for some food in the evening when we were hungry. In the evening we checked out the infinity pool which was on the 37th floor of another building, and had a pretty cool view of the city skyline, including the Petronas twin towers! After our lil swim, we grabbed some ice-cream and beer then sat in our hostel rooftop admiring the view.
    もっと詳しく

  • Healthy breaky
    Dutch squareLaska for lunch (curry noodles)Baba and Nyonya Heritage MuseumDifferent architecturePineapple tartThey LOVE Durian hereCutest lil chair endsCoffee cocktails 😍Night marketFood selectionSparkly tuk tuks

    Melaka day 2

    2024年7月14日, マレーシア ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Got out and properly explored the city today. I temporarily got trapped in a cafe I went to for breakfast as the heavens opened up for an hour, but then I wandered round.
    There was a big square full of red colonial buildings from when the Dutch colonised the country, but not overly interesting to look at.
    After lunch I visited a heritage house which was meant to an art gallery but ended up being more of an antique collection 😅 I then went to a proper heritage house called Baba and Nyonya Heritage Museum which was so interesting. It showcased the local history of descendants of ethnic Chinese-Malays called Babya-Nyonya or Peranakan. The museum was created in 1986 by Chan Kim Lay, the fourth generation of his family to live in the house built by his great-grandfather in 1896.
    I continued exploring the city, it had lots of cool architecture and street art and just a really nice feel to it. I met a fellow traveller for drinks before we ventured into the Jonker Walk street market. This market is only on Fridays, Saturday and Sundays so I'd incidentally timed my trip very well. The street were packed with food vendors selling all sorts of food and every other cuisine. The best thing I ate was some fried turnip rice wraps, unexpectly delicious!
    もっと詳しく

  • Kuala Lumpur ➡️ Melaka + Melaka day 1

    2024年7月12日〜13日, マレーシア ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Missed my first bus today :( The Kuala Lumpur bus terminal is so huge, almost like an airport, plus you need to print off your ticket first, so I ended up missing my bus. I bought a new ticket, then had 2 hours to kill at the station canteen before hopping on a 2-hour bus down to Melaka.
    I arrived at my hostel just before sunset, and watched it from the rooftop. The hostel is very cute and has a nice homely feel to it. I went out to grab some food then joined the hostel trivia quiz, in which we won and were rewarded with free beer :)
    Had a very lazy day the next day, had a wander round town and found food and cake, then in the evening I joined the hostel bike ride to the floating mosque. The mosque sits on the end of a small jetty, and when it's high tide, it looks like it's floating. It was low tide this evening, but it was still lovely to sit and chat on the rocks and watch the sunset. On the way back, we stopped at a food market and got some yummy food, then went to a few bars later on.
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  • Airport shrine?
    Noodles, almost 10x the price of street food noodles in Siam Reap 🙃Delicious biryani which was served to me out of a huge bamboo shoot!7/11 dessert runNext day£2 veggie lunch buffetTrain zooming over trafficStreet my hostel's onTried a variety of matcha, genmaicha, which had roasted rice in... tasted like muddy grassWhen it said it came with tortilla chips, I did expect more than two 🤣Hyped up 7/11 egg mayo sandwich was very disappointingAlcohol is very expensive here compared to the rest of SE Asia! £3.50 for supermarket CoronaInteresting 7/11 dessert, actually grown found of sweetcorn ice cream 🤣

    Battambang ➡️ Kuala Lumpur + KL day 1

    2024年7月10日〜11日, マレーシア ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Hopped on a bus from Battambang to Siam Reap in the morning in which we broke down for an hour. Worried I was going to be late for my flight, I got on a tuk tuk straight to the airport. The airport was absolutely dead and I flew through baggage and security, and actually had loads of time before my flight Regretfully because I didn't get lunch in Siem Reap, I regretfully bought overpriced noodles in the airport to curb the hanger.
    It was only 2 1/2 hour flight to Kuala Lumpur, in which I slept all the way (again), but then another 45 mins from the airport into the city centre. I dumped my bags at the hostel just after 8 and found somewhere for food.
    The next day I very lazily explored my surrounding area. Visited a couple cafes and a few shopping malls, anywhere where there was aircon really. Kuala Lumpur has a very different feel to it than other Asian 'super cities' I've visited, can't quite put my finger on what but am excited to explore more.
    もっと詳しく

  • Nom Bang Saih for breaky, Cambodian take on a Bahn mi
    Weren't allowed to take photos inside, so I stole this from GoogleThis one tooMy favourite of the 4 artists, Seyha HourPretty matcha latte and huuge slab of cake!Last dinner in Cambodia, some sorta yummy curry

    Battambang day 2

    2024年7月9日, カンボジア ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    After seeing so many sights yesterday, I had a pretty chill day today. I explored the town a little, and wanted to look around the streets in the city centre but it started to rain, so instead I paid a visit to a local art gallery called Romcheik5 art space. Turns out it was the first contemporary art gallery in Cambodia!
    It only had the work of 4 artists, showcasing pieces from the past 10 years over three floors.
    I then chilled out on their lovely little cafe on the top floor, before resorting to getting a tuk tuk back to the hostel to avoid the rain. I was accompanied in the back seat by the drivers 5 year old son which was very sweet.
    Back at the hostel I packed and prepared to fly to Malaysia tomorrow!
    もっと詳しく

  • Snake and jackfruit rice wines!Hindu templeWat Ek Phnom - one of the oldest temples in CambodiaOur glamorous bamboo carriageKilling caveBuddha, carved into limestone cliffsHandsome coconut manSpot the monkeysMonkeys, views and bats

    Battambang day 1

    2024年7月8日, カンボジア ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    I saw some many spots in Battambang today. In the morning we were taken in a tuk tuk through the countryside to a few temples, a killing field, a rice wine 'farm', spring roll restaurant and a super stinky fish market. After lunch we were driven further into the countryside to the railway. During the Khmer Rouge regime, people made platforms from bamboo with wheels (bamboo trains), and used them to transport goods and passengers. Now they have proper trains that pass through a few times a day, and between those trains, the bamboo ones still operate as a tourist attraction.
    The train was very basic, and was operated by a guy sitting on the back with a motor. When we met another bamboo train coming the other direction, we slowed down, hopped off, then the two drivers simply lifted up the bamboo platform off the tracks followed by the four wheels on their two axles, and the other passed by. The train was then 'rebuilt' on the tracks, then away we went.
    We actually went a lot faster than expected! The scenery was very nice, but the heat was staggering with no shade.
    15 minutes down the track we hopped off and sat at some stalls. At some point one of my group was handed a baby by one of the locals, who sat with us while we watched one of the real trains zoom past 🤣
    Later in the afternoon, we were driven up to a temple complex in the mountains which was littered with monkeys! They also had a cave there which was used as a body dumping ground during the Khmer Rouge regime, and thus nicknamed the 'killing cave'.
    The main attraction of the day was a different cave, this one full of bats! While we waited for the bats to emerge at dusk, our tour guide entertained us with beer and uno.
    At around 6.30 we gathered by the entrance of a cave, surrounded by lots of other tourists all sat on plastic chairs. When the sun started to set, thousands of tiny bats started to pour out of this cave opening, filing out in perfect lines and zigzagging across the sky. There are estimated to be over 6 million living throughout the area, with over 1 million living in this one cave! I did think they'd pour out all at one go, and envisioned the sky turning black with bats 😅 but seeing them form orderly lines was pretty cute, and also impressive, as we sat there for 20 minutes and hundreds of bats were flying out every second, and were still going as we left!
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