Albufeira del Lago, Portugal

August 2023 - April 2024
I came to Portugal to attend a 200hour Yoga Teach Training Program at Sundari Integral Yoga School. I expected my butt to be kicked but so was my spirit.
After 21 days of training and study from 8am-10pm, I knew I'd be ready for a holiday.
Off I go!
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  • Lisboa for a night

    August 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Landed late because of a delayed flight, got in at 1am to shakily navigate getting a taxi in Portuguese to my hotel for the night, The Grand Lisboa Hotel & Spa, somewhere I knew I could eat late once I got in and could get a massage the next day before heading out to Albufeira.

    My cab driver greeted me with an "Ola Bella" which threw me off for just a moment until I remembered, I'm in Europe now. He spoke English and chatted me up about wage issues in the country and how hardly any native Portuguese lived there anymore (he was Brazilian) for my 10min ride to my hotel. Even though it was 1am, check in was simple and swift. The lobby was gorgeous, the elevator was hip and began my high hopes for the room.
    The room was small and simple but I did not care at all, got myself some food and good rest.
    The next morning I wanted to see what it might be like wheeling my two suitcases a block down the street to the train station. I set out on foot to survey the neighborhood and find a cafe. The train station was impeccably close to my hotel but the cobblestone streets were horrendously bumpy. I walked around the train station, gauging how easy it would be to find my way to Albufeira.
    There was a small Cafe inside the train station where I grabbed a single cappuccino and Pastel de Nata, a delicious little pastry that tasted like maybe banana and custard.
    On my way back to the hotel, I paid attention to the people in the streets and what they were wearing. I seem to be the only person in jean shorts and definitely the only person wearing sunglasses.
    After some thought and rearranging my packing, I convinced myself that I would just take an Uber to Albufeira. The ride was 45 minutes long and only 30 Euros. It was 20 euros more than the train but also an hour and a half less, not to mention the peace of mind I would have to be able to nap or be on my phone during the ride.

    My body was screaming at me from the jet lag so I went ahead and booked a massage that did not disappoint. The woman was so kind and so experienced and at the very end requested that I, "live a good life."
    I grabbed myself a small sandwich and checked out of the hotel while I waited for my Uber, the doorman, Leon, was a couple years younger than me and very friendly. He chatted me up while I waited, seeming very amused I had come there on my own to go to yoga teacher training and invited me to come visit him again.

    I was told that Lisbon felt very safe and was incredibly friendly and helpful and im just one day there, I definitely experienced that. I can't wait to return.
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  • Day 1–22

    Albufeira de Lago

    August 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 79 °F

    This neighborhood that was my home for 21 days. The place smelled of ocean humidity meets piles of pine needles in the streets. Late at night, you could hear kids playing basketball or soccer in the streets. In the mornings, a sweet bread car would drive around blasting his song, calling you to come to the 'panderia' (see video).
    Friendly well-kept dogs with collars often ran the streets, walking themselves out sitting guard outside of their homes paying no mind to anyone walking by. I made good friends with one dog, Farouk (see photo) that I would see on my daily walks. He was never outside his gates and would bark at passerbys until he recognized me then would cry and scurry to our meeting point for pets.
    I could reach the ocean in about 10 minutes from one of three paths; up the hill, thru the forest and back down the hill, through the cobblestone streets of the neighborhood, or by passing the Lagoon (shown with boats in it) that was the popular spot with the locals, fed by the ocean waters from a nearby channel.
    The weather changed from hour to hour; warm and sunny to breezy and cool to a light sprinkle and clouds. Don't like the weather? Wait 20 minutes for the next phase! No matter the weather, the sunsets and sunrises were epic 6/7days of the week, reminding me of my own Arizona skies.
    I didn't meet many locals here as school kept me very busy. I booked more with my classmates and the land more so here. I can say with confidence though, this area is a magical place. The community and landscape surely contributed to it being such a healing and transformative moment in my existence.
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  • Day 6

    Lago de Albufeira, Portugal

    September 2, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    This is the location of Sundari Integral Yoga School, where I would be for 21 days, living among five other students and two teachers.
    I had googled this location before coming, of course but no photo or description could have prepared me for how beautiful and inspiring this place felt.

    The school is a giant home made of marble steps, stained glass windows blackout crushed velvet curtains and the most gorgeous garden I have ever seen. The moment I got in, one of my instructors, Eugene welcome to me in and help me settle my bags into my room that I would be sharing with Elena, from Italy. I knew that I'd be sharing a room with another student and did have some nerves about that but as soon as I met her I knew that I was going to enjoy sharing space and the experience with her. Minutes after meeting we decided to walk to the beach together since we had one hour until the welcoming session.

    I shared this yoga training with four other women and one man all from different European countries - England, Belgium, Italy, Spain & Germany. This melting pot of a living situation was one of my very favorite parts of the trip. We shared all of our meals together and every single day was chock full of conversation regarding all kinds of things from how every culture/country handled healthcare, poverty, religion, travel, health and wellness not to mention all the other topics that would come up within our strenuous training- both physical and spiritual. I never knew I could go grow so closely with people in 3 weeks, we shared many trials and joys.

    The only way to sum up all the knowledge I took in is to begin weaving it into my life. Carmen, our teacher (rather guru) has her master's in psychology, used to be a lawyer, is also certified in acupuncture and herbalism into of her 30yrs in yoga practice. She's worked with inmates, children, elderly, families, battered women and homeless. She made sure that we looked beyond the poses and into the ancient wisdom beneath the poses to truly bring change to ourselves and the world. Her partner Eugene, used to work in the corporate world in some form of large scale marketing and is now decades deep in multiple Eastern energetic arts like qigong. He taught us meditation and concentration practices backed by studies every single night and was the continuous spark for philosophical ideas and discussions.
    The group spirit animal of this time was their cat, Shanti, who we all adored. I can't speak highly enough of all these people, this space and this school. My mind, body & soul feel as if they've found their center and it came from remembering who I was by way of a little knowledge, great discipline and a renewed faith in Love as source.
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  • Day 22

    Day trip to Sesimbra & Cabo Espichel

    September 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Alex, Ella and I enjoyed a day trip to the Sesimbra area on our last full day in Albufeira. Alex is from Portugal and was excited to show us around, giving us history along the way. Our own personal tour guide 😆❤️
    We kicked the day off with a half hour drive to the fishing town, Sesimbra. We oggled murals, tiny alleyways with lovely ceramic work & cliffside ocean views. There I had the most delicious mussels and clams of my life! Then... Passion fruit Gelato while we chatted and digested to ocean views.
    Afterwards, we stopped by Cabo Espichel, a gorgeous cliffside coast with a lighthouse and monastery from the 1700s made for a Portuguese princess turned nun.
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  • Day 22

    Lesboa with friends

    September 18, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Alex, Ella and I left all together to Lisbon after a bittersweet goodbye to Sundari owners Carmen & Eugene. Ella and I both had flights out at 8pm and Alex was kind enough to show us around Lisbon from a locals point of view; we appreciated some amazing African cuisine, pastel de Natas and incredible architecture and parks before Alex took us to the airport ❤️ This day made farewells as sweet as they can be.Read more

  • Day 23

    Roma, day 1

    September 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    My Air B&B host was so kind to meet me at my arrival at 1am to let me in and show me around. She knew no English and spoke quickly, I understood some of her directions because of my Spanish but asked her to repeat a few things into my Google translator and she assured me her daughter would be available in the future.
    The space is in the MonteVerde neighborhood(location of this entry), a Southern portion of Travestere. It's quiet and quaint and the details of the apartment are spectacular; vintage books and artwork decorating the space, the giant iron door, the bed high up in a loft, a wooden armoire for my clothes, a jet tub style bath in a washroom FULL of mirrors and a shared/private garden.
    1st order of business- massage! 3weeks of yoga and travel had me so tightly wound, it was all I could think about. I couldn't have gotten luckier either, I found the most talented and intuitive masseuse at Centro Agapi.
    Afterwards I had quite the appetite and went to Mercato Testaccio, a local area filled with stalls of different to-go foods including cafes, bars and other shopping. My eyes were definitely bigger than my stomach because I ordered 4 Suppli along with a fried zucchini flower and a batch of Ascolana (fried olives). After eating as much as I could, washed down by a decaf espresso, I was ready to walk it off. I was please with the bustling streets of fast Italian speakers and some guys blasting a boom box (video).
    The closest historical site to me that I was interested in was Temple Hercules Victor, maybe the oldest building in Rome. Plus, I love Hercules:) It was a lovely walk down along the Tiber River to it too! The cobblestone streets were certainly not friendly to my feet though so I gave up after a mile and hopped on a bird scooter for the rest of the way which honestly terrified me on my first day. But it wasn't long to my destination and once there, I stayed in the square block to walk some amazing sights in the center of the city.
    19year old Portia, the art history major (unfinished) came to the surface and I melted into the details of architecture of my once favorite sites;

    Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin: famous for the 'Mouth of Truth' (shown in the movie, Roman Holiday). I glanced at it but didn't care for the line of 50+people to take a photo. I chose instead to walk inside and awe at my first Roman church. It was breathtaking and I was pulled by both the coolness of its stone walls and the preciousness of its space to have some meditation time in one of it's many halls.

    Teatro Marcello- slightly smaller than but just as impressive as The Colosseum. Began by Julius Caesar and finished by Augustus and finally used in 17BC. People today are free to roam the ruins and get very close to the architecture. These grounds were very impressive and I found to be more fascinating as it was built in 13BC and became a model for the rest of Roman theaters including The Colleseum.

    Portico al Foro Olitorio
    I can't believe this monumental peice is just standing over the sidewalks of one of Romes main squares. Built in 196BC, as the entryway gate of Triumphant processions such as funerals of emperors or victorious returns from wars.
    It felt magical to walk through and around (video). This archway is to me, THE symbol of Romes greatness.

    These were my favorites but there was so much to see in between, not a nook or alleyway is without ancient history. There were countless churches and fountains I passed along the way, stopping to drink in their details.

    To get home on my first day, I found an electric bike to rent and made my way across the Ponte Garibaldi & thru the cobblestone streets of Travestere.
    I needed to rest my weary bones and rinse my sweaty body but afterwards, I walked to dinner at MaxiMum and had myself my most anticipated meal: Pasta Carbonara with a side of Zucchini and Tiramisu to finish! With wine, of course. The walk home was lovely- the weather, the people bustling the streets and the buildings at night ❤️
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  • Day 23–33

    Roma, day2

    September 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The moment I booked my flight to come to Rome, I also booked myself a tour of the city by Vespa. I figured that it would be a great way to hit the big sites but also acquaint myself with the layout of the city for my coming week. What I didn't know was it was THE BEST way to cover a lot of ground with minimal contact with both vehicle and pedestrian traffic. I highly recommend doing this if you ever come.

    I hopped on a bicycle at 9am to arrive at our meeting point at 9.30. There were 2 other couples (sharing Vespas) and myself, riding with our tour guide. We began with circling around the Colosseum and making a quick stop by the Circo Maximo (Where Chariot races were once held). After that we wound up and down the 7 hills of the city while our guide pointed out important notes of architecture & notes on day to day culture. We stopped by the Trevi Fountain, Giardino degli Aranci, Janiculum Hill and Piazza Navona (all in photos). The information I received from our guide about the history of the city as well as details of how the city worked (neighborhood paths and tourist traffic) were a gem of knowledge to have on my trip. I can't recommend a tour by Vespa enough. I got to wonder and marvel at the scenery while in the trusted throttles of a local.
    The tour ended at 1pm at the Chiesa di Santa Maria ai Monti (beautiful church with Frescos from the 1500s) so I went in for a meditative sit, to de-stimulate and center myself before heading out to find some lunch in the thick crowds. It was the right move, I could feel the excitement of all the views, information about the city and chaos of Rome traffic settle to the bottom as I sat in silence and reverence for my experience.
    I was STARVING once I got up, having only a banana in the morning and an espresso at a pit stop. The crowds in this area were insane and I just wanted to leave the area but I was a 0 on my energy scale and quickly ducked into the 3rd pizza-by-the-slice shop that I saw. I got something loaded with tomato, zucchini, arugula and balsamic reduction. I asked for one slice and they grabbed one giant square, cut it into 4 regular square sizes and baked it. It was good, not great but I didn't care. I had sustenance!
    Now I was off to my long walk home. On my way, I couldn't help but dip into two thrift shops (clothing, shoes, handbags) and made a shoe purchase. I wandered thru alleyways, stopping at fountains and to marvel at details of architecture but I had to get back to rest. I had a string quartet concert that night!
    It was nice to get back to take a bath in the jet tub, yoga, do laundry and set it out to dry, unpack properly and take a small rest on the couch while I decided where to go to dinner on the way to my show.... and how to get there as it was almost an hour walk away, or 30min bike ride! But this is a Violin concert and I wanted to wear that long dress I had just gotten. So I called an Uber. Taking a car into the center of the city is pure madness.
    I arrived at Canova Tadolini, a spot I chose because it's just a half block away from my event AND it was known for being the studio location of baroque sculptors Canova & Tadolini. But that's what they're known for, NOT their Bolognese.

    Afterwards I walked over to my Vivaldi Strings concert at The All Saints Anglican Church and that was INCREDIBLE. I cried almost 3 times during that show just because of how beautiful the music and SPACE was. Arts was one of my main aims to experience while in Rome and I was feeling why now. Witnessing this level of art, INSIDE of more art shook my center to the surface of my being. These kinds of experiences remind me of who I am. I was alive again!

    I left this show on cloud 9 and ready to walk the hour home. On my way back, I ran into a fashion show happening in front of the Spanish Steps which was a lot of fun to watch even if high fashion isn't my thing. After that, I was right by Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato. Score! They treated me with a sample of their melted chocolate and I was in heaven. I collected myself a bag of chocolates and ordered a coffee gelato on a chocolate-filled cone. HEAVEN. I enjoyed this cone while I wandered the streets on my way back, taking in the opera singers in the streets on my way back, the live band in front of The Pantheon and later even more music in the small streets of Travestere.

    At this point, I was DONE walking and tied my long dress up into a knot and hopped onto an electric bike to get me the rest of the way home. This was a truly full day and evening in Roma and I slept like a baby!
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  • Day 31

    Roma, day 3

    September 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    I was so excited to wake up with no alarm today. No set plans, be wherever I want to be and when. I of course did some yoga in my beautiful flat before heading out to find myself a day in nature.
    I found a park a half hour walk away so I stopped into a cafe halfway omw there to enjoy some orange juice (always freshly squeezed!) And a delicious little muffin (stuffed with orange preserves).
    It's a much cooler day today, with doors of sprinkles but never quite rain. Lots of clouds but on the move quickly through the sky, exposing sunny-blue skies in small moments. I took my time, window shopping as I went and making a quick stop at a yummy smelling African cafe for lentil samosas and falafel 🤤
    Villa Doria Pamphlili Park was THE BEST surprise. I expected a park, a usual park. This place was miles of forest, grass, ancients fountains and statues amongst greenery, a church and a museum. I saw all kinds of people here, running, photographing, students gathered in study circles, parents watching their kids play, people reading or on a phone call or just wandering. I expected to be there for an hour but I was there for maybe 5! I stopped to read, grab gelato, photograph (seen here), and do some yoga, it was a magical day of nature reprieve.
    On my way home from the park, I decided to stop into a pub-style bar called Mad for Beer. I asked for an Italian-style IPA which went down to easy. I got a second and ordered a ceaser salad with it. Before I knew it, the pub filled up and they put on a football game, soccer, as I know it. It was an Italian club vs a Russian club and fans in the bar were heated. This was a fun experience to have by accident. I stayed until Italy made their first goal and was off. I had a phone call with one of the besties on my walk home which filled me with some life even though I was so weary from a day out.
    Just a block away from my flat, traffic pulled up all around me and I noticed that the streets were flooded! Preference we're getting really creative, making their own crossings, hiking up their pants or backtracking to not wade thru this river of.... sewer water? River water? Both? I knew this was not a normal occurrence as locals all around me were taking videos (me too) and we'd all giggle as we met eyes, traversing the lake-like puddles.
    At home, I took an Epsom salt bath in my hot tub fit for a queen before easily drifting off to my Roman dreams.
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  • Day 31

    Roma day 4, the VatiCan'T

    September 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    Last night I bought a last minute ticket to go see the Vatican this morning. The bicycle ride there is the exact same amount of time as an Uber would be, so I'm off on bike! Even though it's a warmer day and I'm forced to wear jeans and a T-shirt because apparently showing shoulders or knees is sinful or disrespectful.
    The bike ride there is so much fun. It's halfway UPHILL which sucks at first but I'm in good spirits and it's not too warm yet. Once I reach the top of the hill, it's winding downhill streets with a view of the city and I am so happy. Then I hit the hot mess that is St. Peters square and theres masses of people that *could* or *could not be* in a line. I eventually find my location where I'm supposed to show my emailed confirmation thru "Just booked" in exchange for a ticket in.
    It's a disaster. I am right *on time* when the ticket does request me to be at least 15 minutes early. Apparently, I come to find out that is because the website overbooks and then admits people by a first come first serve basis. I did not first come soooo, they refunded my ticket and suggested I find a local to get me in. 🫠😅
    I'm too hungry for that so I go to sit down at a nearby cafe and have my first panini, a meatball panini with fresh basil leaves and oozing out mozzarella! With a Hugo... my now, signature cocktail for Rome. It's Gin, prosecco, elderflower syrup, mint and soda water. It's so light and refreshing and reminds me of a mojito but not quite.
    This begins my Vatican't day of being fully dressed for the house of God that's just me sweating in Roman streets. I had a great day though, I drank and I shopped. I didn't just shop though, I made friends with every shop attendant I came across. I asked all about them and what it was like working there, we exchanged English words for Italian words and I would thank them for their unique presence as a vintage shop, a metaphysical shop or artisan shop. I had a hoot.
    But all that day drinking and walking was leading to a crash and I was too far into the city. I had been wanting to catch a movie here so... this was my window! I found a showing of Madame DuBarry (featuring Johnny Depp). It was still in Italian but I figured, why not! That's basically how I'm navigating life rn. And I'm so glad I did! I'm sure I missed a couple jokes or small comments because of the language "barrier" but the movie was fantastic! I almost cried at one point. Maybe that just speaks to how good the film was though 🤷❤️
    On my slow walk back home at sunset time, I happened into Castle D'Angelo, a sight I had wanted to see at some point so this seemed perfect and I got into line for a ticket. Another excellent impromptu choice. Even though the clouds rolled in and blocked my chance of an amazing sunset view, it was such a great experience to walk the halls of a true castle! I could feel the history of the place and swooned. There were truly wonderful Frescos that filled half and lovely rod iron details everywhere. Also, the view at the top wasn't anything less than spectacular and I made sure to sit and enjoy it awhile.
    I went to Mr Cloods in Trastevere for dinner, a suggestion from a friend. On the way there passed by live music after live music. Is tucked down a tiny scary dark alleyway but definitely did not disappoint. I ordered lasagna with wine and a side of charred raddaccio and it was probably the best Roman meal I've had so far.
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